Beans: Gold Rush Yellow Wax (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
SKU:
$1.00
$1.00 - $5.60
$1.00
per item
The vegetable we now recognize as the common bean has its roots in South America; some historians fix the date as far back as 8,000 BC to the Pre-Incan civilization in Peru. When Columbus arrived in the New World, he found green beans growing with the maize of the Indians. Columbus and other European explorers introduced this new vegetable to their countries, where it eventually spread to the rest of Europe and all over the world.
Scientific Name: Phaseolus vulgaris.
Ease of Growing: Moderate
Grown as: Annual
Maturity: 50 days
Growing Habit: Bush
Hardiness: Tender. Beans are temperature sensitive and shouldn't be planted until the soil has reached at least 65˚ F.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Spring, Summer
Growing Season: Long
Growing Conditions: Warm, Hot. To grow dry beans you plant them all at once, as soon as the soil is warm enough. They need a longer period of warm weather to produce dry beans. They are not at all hardy and any frost will kill them. Beans like a warm sunny spot.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 60°F - 80°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 60°F.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Full Sun. Min. 6 hours daily (Cool, Warm, Hot).
Water: Medium. Water lightly at planting, medium at flowering, and heavily throughout harvest time. Avoid overhead watering which can promote disease.
Soil Moisture: Beans should have evenly moist soil at all times.
Feeder: Moderate. Low nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Beans don't need a lot of nitrogen in the soil because they fix their own. In fact, if there is a lot in the soil they won't go to the trouble of fixing it. They do need plenty of potassium and phosphorus though. They are sometimes planted after a crop that was heavily amended, or after a winter cover crop.
Small Gardens?: Yes
Containers?: No
Attracts beneficial insects?: Yes. It's flowers attracts bees and butterflies.
Maintenance: Medium
Height: 18-24"
Spacing: 6-12" (4 per square foot)
Sowing Depth: 1-3"
USDA Grow Zone: 3-11
Produces: 5-6" long yellow wax beans.
Garden Uses: Annual for vegetable gardens.
Ease of Growing: Moderate
Grown as: Annual
Maturity: 50 days
Growing Habit: Bush
Hardiness: Tender. Beans are temperature sensitive and shouldn't be planted until the soil has reached at least 65˚ F.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Spring, Summer
Growing Season: Long
Growing Conditions: Warm, Hot. To grow dry beans you plant them all at once, as soon as the soil is warm enough. They need a longer period of warm weather to produce dry beans. They are not at all hardy and any frost will kill them. Beans like a warm sunny spot.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 60°F - 80°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 60°F.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Full Sun. Min. 6 hours daily (Cool, Warm, Hot).
Water: Medium. Water lightly at planting, medium at flowering, and heavily throughout harvest time. Avoid overhead watering which can promote disease.
Soil Moisture: Beans should have evenly moist soil at all times.
Feeder: Moderate. Low nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Beans don't need a lot of nitrogen in the soil because they fix their own. In fact, if there is a lot in the soil they won't go to the trouble of fixing it. They do need plenty of potassium and phosphorus though. They are sometimes planted after a crop that was heavily amended, or after a winter cover crop.
Small Gardens?: Yes
Containers?: No
Attracts beneficial insects?: Yes. It's flowers attracts bees and butterflies.
Maintenance: Medium
Height: 18-24"
Spacing: 6-12" (4 per square foot)
Sowing Depth: 1-3"
USDA Grow Zone: 3-11
Produces: 5-6" long yellow wax beans.
Garden Uses: Annual for vegetable gardens.
Soil Preparation
Soil Preference:
Soil pH: 6.0-7.5, Ideal 6.7-7.0. Beans like a light, well-drained loamy soil, with lots of organic matter.
Soil Preparation:
Compost (Nitrogen), 2", in top 8" of soil, 1 time:
Incorporate 2" of compost into the top 6˝ to 8˝ of soil, where most of the plants feeder roots are located.
Standard Mix, 5 pound(s) per 100 sq. ft., in top 8" of soil, 1 time.
This mix consists of:
Soil pH: 6.0-7.5, Ideal 6.7-7.0. Beans like a light, well-drained loamy soil, with lots of organic matter.
Soil Preparation:
Compost (Nitrogen), 2", in top 8" of soil, 1 time:
Incorporate 2" of compost into the top 6˝ to 8˝ of soil, where most of the plants feeder roots are located.
Standard Mix, 5 pound(s) per 100 sq. ft., in top 8" of soil, 1 time.
This mix consists of:
- 4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
- 2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
- 2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
- 1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
- 1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)
Start Indoors
Seed Sowing Depth: 1-3". The depth they are planted varies according to the soil temperature. They should be planted 1" deep in cold soil and 2" (or even 3") deep in warm soil. The deeper planting ensures they get enough moisture.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 85°F, optimal 75°F to 80°F, optimal 77°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 8 to 9 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 1 week before last frost date. Beans are rarely grown from transplants, as they dislike transplanting. The large seeds germinate easily and grow so fast in warm soil that direct sown plants often catch up to transplanted ones anyway. If you really feel you must start them inside to avoid hungry early birds—or to try to get a very early crop—be aware that they need gentle treatment when transplanting. If the germination percentage of the seed is high, sow one seed in each soil block or cell pack. If germination is poor, plant two seeds and thin to the best one after they have both germinated. Don’t forget to inoculate them.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 85°F, optimal 75°F to 80°F, optimal 77°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 8 to 9 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 1 week before last frost date. Beans are rarely grown from transplants, as they dislike transplanting. The large seeds germinate easily and grow so fast in warm soil that direct sown plants often catch up to transplanted ones anyway. If you really feel you must start them inside to avoid hungry early birds—or to try to get a very early crop—be aware that they need gentle treatment when transplanting. If the germination percentage of the seed is high, sow one seed in each soil block or cell pack. If germination is poor, plant two seeds and thin to the best one after they have both germinated. Don’t forget to inoculate them.
Transplant Outdoors
2-4 weeks after last frost date: Plant out the transplants when the soil gets warm enough.
Warm, Hot: Beans like a warm sunny spot. They are not at all hardy and any frost will kill them. These tall plants are vulnerable to being blown over, so should be sheltered from high winds and supported on a stable and secure structure.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Don’t plant Pole Beans out until all frost danger is past and the soil is warm (at least 60˚ F and ideally 80˚ F). If beans are planted in cold soil, they may rot. You can warm the soil beforehand with cloches or plastic mulch, or start them indoors if you must have an early crop.
Warm, Hot: Beans like a warm sunny spot. They are not at all hardy and any frost will kill them. These tall plants are vulnerable to being blown over, so should be sheltered from high winds and supported on a stable and secure structure.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Don’t plant Pole Beans out until all frost danger is past and the soil is warm (at least 60˚ F and ideally 80˚ F). If beans are planted in cold soil, they may rot. You can warm the soil beforehand with cloches or plastic mulch, or start them indoors if you must have an early crop.
Start Outdoors
When Warm, Hot: Beans like a warm sunny spot. They are not at all hardy and any frost will kill them. These tall plants are vulnerable to being blown over, so should be sheltered from high winds and supported on a stable and secure structure.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Don’t plant Pole Beans out until all frost danger is past and the soil is warm (at least 6o˚ F and ideally 80˚ F). If beans are planted in cold soil, they may rot. You can warm the soil beforehand with cloches or plastic mulch, or start them indoors if you must have an early crop.
Seed Depth: 1-3". The depth they are planted varies according to the soil temperature. They should be planted 1" deep in cold soil and 2" (or even 3") deep in warm soil. The deeper planting ensures they get enough moisture.
Spacing: 6.-12", 4 plants per sq ft. Space bush types 6 to 12" apart in beds.
Thinning: Sow roughly twice as many seeds as you need plants and thin to the approximate spacing, after they have all emerged. To thin, pinch out the extra plants, as this doesn't disturb those remaining. Always try to remove the inferior plants and leave the best.
Spring Crop:
2-4 weeks after last frost date: Put your first beans in the ground 2-4 weeks after the last frost date. Make sure the soil is warm enough. The seeds will rot if it's too cold. Some people like to soak their beans overnight prior to planting. Start planting by placing the seeds on top of the prepared seedbed at the correct spacing. When you are satisfied they are all correctly spaced, simply push them down into the soil with your finger and close up the hole. One way to improve and hasten emergence in cold soil is to pre-sprout the seeds indoors. This can be done in optimally warm conditions and could save you 10 days or more. You then plant out the already germinated seeds, being extremely careful not to damage the tender roots.
1. Sow roughly twice as many seeds as you need plants.
2. Thin to the approximate spacing, after they have all emerged. The best way to remove the extra plants is by pinching them out, as this doesn’t disturb those remaining. Always remove the inferior plants and leave the best ones.
If you plan on using a bean teepee for support, then plant 6 seeds around each pole. When these have germinated, thin to leave the best 3 plants at each pole. If you are sowing in long rows down the bed, space them 2-3 inches apart (to be thinned later to leave one plant every 4-6 inches). You could also sow 2 seeds every 4-6 inches (and remove the weakest later).
Inoculation:
Bean plants don’t fix nitrogen. Nitrogen-fixing bacteria that grow in nodules on their roots fix nitrogen. If the right strain of bacteria isn’t present in the soil in sufficient quantity, no nitrogen will be fixed and the bean plants will take it out of the soil just like any other plant. If you have grown beans in the past 3 to 5 years, there are probably enough bacteria already in the soil for good nitrogen fixation and you don’t need to inoculate. If you haven’t grown them recently, you should inoculate the seeds with the appropriate bacteria. This can boost pod yields by as much as 60%.
Summer Crop:
4-12 weeks after last frost date. Some people like to soak their beans overnight prior to planting. Start planting by placing the seeds on top of the prepared seedbed at the correct spacing. When you are satisfied they are all correctly spaced, simply push them down into the soil with your finger and close up the hole. One way to improve and hasten emergence in cold soil is to pre-sprout the seeds indoors. This can be done in optimally warm conditions and could save you 10 days or more. You then plant out the already germinated seeds, being extremely careful not to damage the tender roots.
1. Sow roughly twice as many seeds as you need plants
2. Thin to the approximate spacing, after they have all emerged. The best way to remove the extra plants is by pinching them out, as this doesn’t disturb those remaining. Always remove the inferior plants and leave the best ones.
If you plan on using a bean teepee for support, then plant 6 seeds around each pole. When these have germinated, thin to leave the best 3 plants at each pole. If you are sowing in long rows down the bed, space them 2-3 inches apart (to be thinned later to leave one plant every 4-6 inches). You could also sow 2 seeds every 4-6 inches (and remove the weakest later).
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Don’t plant Pole Beans out until all frost danger is past and the soil is warm (at least 6o˚ F and ideally 80˚ F). If beans are planted in cold soil, they may rot. You can warm the soil beforehand with cloches or plastic mulch, or start them indoors if you must have an early crop.
Seed Depth: 1-3". The depth they are planted varies according to the soil temperature. They should be planted 1" deep in cold soil and 2" (or even 3") deep in warm soil. The deeper planting ensures they get enough moisture.
Spacing: 6.-12", 4 plants per sq ft. Space bush types 6 to 12" apart in beds.
Thinning: Sow roughly twice as many seeds as you need plants and thin to the approximate spacing, after they have all emerged. To thin, pinch out the extra plants, as this doesn't disturb those remaining. Always try to remove the inferior plants and leave the best.
Spring Crop:
2-4 weeks after last frost date: Put your first beans in the ground 2-4 weeks after the last frost date. Make sure the soil is warm enough. The seeds will rot if it's too cold. Some people like to soak their beans overnight prior to planting. Start planting by placing the seeds on top of the prepared seedbed at the correct spacing. When you are satisfied they are all correctly spaced, simply push them down into the soil with your finger and close up the hole. One way to improve and hasten emergence in cold soil is to pre-sprout the seeds indoors. This can be done in optimally warm conditions and could save you 10 days or more. You then plant out the already germinated seeds, being extremely careful not to damage the tender roots.
1. Sow roughly twice as many seeds as you need plants.
2. Thin to the approximate spacing, after they have all emerged. The best way to remove the extra plants is by pinching them out, as this doesn’t disturb those remaining. Always remove the inferior plants and leave the best ones.
If you plan on using a bean teepee for support, then plant 6 seeds around each pole. When these have germinated, thin to leave the best 3 plants at each pole. If you are sowing in long rows down the bed, space them 2-3 inches apart (to be thinned later to leave one plant every 4-6 inches). You could also sow 2 seeds every 4-6 inches (and remove the weakest later).
Inoculation:
Bean plants don’t fix nitrogen. Nitrogen-fixing bacteria that grow in nodules on their roots fix nitrogen. If the right strain of bacteria isn’t present in the soil in sufficient quantity, no nitrogen will be fixed and the bean plants will take it out of the soil just like any other plant. If you have grown beans in the past 3 to 5 years, there are probably enough bacteria already in the soil for good nitrogen fixation and you don’t need to inoculate. If you haven’t grown them recently, you should inoculate the seeds with the appropriate bacteria. This can boost pod yields by as much as 60%.
Summer Crop:
4-12 weeks after last frost date. Some people like to soak their beans overnight prior to planting. Start planting by placing the seeds on top of the prepared seedbed at the correct spacing. When you are satisfied they are all correctly spaced, simply push them down into the soil with your finger and close up the hole. One way to improve and hasten emergence in cold soil is to pre-sprout the seeds indoors. This can be done in optimally warm conditions and could save you 10 days or more. You then plant out the already germinated seeds, being extremely careful not to damage the tender roots.
1. Sow roughly twice as many seeds as you need plants
2. Thin to the approximate spacing, after they have all emerged. The best way to remove the extra plants is by pinching them out, as this doesn’t disturb those remaining. Always remove the inferior plants and leave the best ones.
If you plan on using a bean teepee for support, then plant 6 seeds around each pole. When these have germinated, thin to leave the best 3 plants at each pole. If you are sowing in long rows down the bed, space them 2-3 inches apart (to be thinned later to leave one plant every 4-6 inches). You could also sow 2 seeds every 4-6 inches (and remove the weakest later).
Growing beans is quite simple. As long as they are planted in an area that gets good sunlight, are kept evenly watered, and given the proper amount of support, they will grow, well, ... like beanstalks!
Water Needs: Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week. Keep the soil evenly moist, but don’t over-water. Try and avoid wetting the leaves when watering, as mildew and fungus diseases can be spread in this way. Using drip or a soaker hose is the best way to do this. The most critical need for water is when they are flowering and sizing up their pods. A lack of water in hot weather can reduce the number of pods, so make sure they are well watered at this time. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Low nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Beans don't need a lot of nitrogen in the soil because they fix their own. In fact, if there is a lot in the soil they won't go to the trouble of fixing it. They do need plenty of potassium and phosphorus though. They are sometimes planted after a crop that was heavily amended, or after a winter cover crop.
Weeding, regularly: regularly, every 2 weeks. The young plants can’t compete very well, so it’s important to keep down weeds initially (a mulch helps a lot). The earlier you weed, the easier it will be. Weeds are quite shallow rooted so it's best to pull weeds by hand, rather than using a hoe. Once the plants get going they can out compete any weeds. Weed regularly to keep on top of the task—ideally every 10 to 14 days. Get into the habit of weeding for a few minutes whenever you are in the garden. Remove the biggest weeds first, as these are closest to setting seed.
Side Dressing, when 6" tall: Mulch, 2", when 6" tall, 1 time. Mulch is commonly placed between the widely spaced rows of pole beans, but it is still an optional task in the garden. It's still useful because it conserves moisture and keeps down weeds (which is important while the plants are small). Don’t apply it until the soil is warm though, otherwise it may insulate the soil and keep it cool. Bush beans are not usually mulched, as mulching tends to keep the soil cool. They eventually form a living mulch, which keeps down weeds very effectively.
Side Dressing, before flowering: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., before flowering, 1 time a month. If your soil isn't very fertile, the pole beans may benefit from a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp every 3 to 4 weeks, particularly when they start to flower. Bush beans don’t usually need feeding since they aren’t in the ground for very long.
Support: No. Bush beans do not need any support structures.
Water Needs: Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week. Keep the soil evenly moist, but don’t over-water. Try and avoid wetting the leaves when watering, as mildew and fungus diseases can be spread in this way. Using drip or a soaker hose is the best way to do this. The most critical need for water is when they are flowering and sizing up their pods. A lack of water in hot weather can reduce the number of pods, so make sure they are well watered at this time. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Low nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Beans don't need a lot of nitrogen in the soil because they fix their own. In fact, if there is a lot in the soil they won't go to the trouble of fixing it. They do need plenty of potassium and phosphorus though. They are sometimes planted after a crop that was heavily amended, or after a winter cover crop.
Weeding, regularly: regularly, every 2 weeks. The young plants can’t compete very well, so it’s important to keep down weeds initially (a mulch helps a lot). The earlier you weed, the easier it will be. Weeds are quite shallow rooted so it's best to pull weeds by hand, rather than using a hoe. Once the plants get going they can out compete any weeds. Weed regularly to keep on top of the task—ideally every 10 to 14 days. Get into the habit of weeding for a few minutes whenever you are in the garden. Remove the biggest weeds first, as these are closest to setting seed.
Side Dressing, when 6" tall: Mulch, 2", when 6" tall, 1 time. Mulch is commonly placed between the widely spaced rows of pole beans, but it is still an optional task in the garden. It's still useful because it conserves moisture and keeps down weeds (which is important while the plants are small). Don’t apply it until the soil is warm though, otherwise it may insulate the soil and keep it cool. Bush beans are not usually mulched, as mulching tends to keep the soil cool. They eventually form a living mulch, which keeps down weeds very effectively.
Side Dressing, before flowering: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., before flowering, 1 time a month. If your soil isn't very fertile, the pole beans may benefit from a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp every 3 to 4 weeks, particularly when they start to flower. Bush beans don’t usually need feeding since they aren’t in the ground for very long.
Support: No. Bush beans do not need any support structures.
Harvesting
Ripening: You know they are ripening when they are reaching full size, but before the beans start to swell. As the pods ripen, early pickings are advised.
When and How:
Seed Pods, 1-56 days after maturity:
When: The pods take 18 to 21 days from pollination to full size. They are best gathered just as they are reaching full size, but before the beans start to swell. They should still snap in half easily. Many people prefer them when they are just slightly smaller in diameter than a pencil. You might try harvesting the pods at different sizes, to see which you like best.
How: The best time to harvest is in the early morning when it is still cool. Gather the pods carefully so you don’t damage the plants. Hold on to the vine and pull down on the pod, so there is no danger of pulling the plant out of the ground.
The best way to harvest older beans is to break off the pod just below its stem and then break sideways and pull, leaving any strings attached to the plant. In humid areas, it’s best not to
transmit disease. You must gather the green beans conscientiously whether you want them or not, as the plants may stop producing when the first seed ripens. If you harvest Pole Beans every 2 to 3 days, it is possible to keep the plants producing for weeks. The key to a large harvest is early and regular picking (just like life, the more you take the more you get). If the harvest gets away from you, remove all the pods of any size. With luck this will encourage a new growth of pods.
When and How:
Seed Pods, 1-56 days after maturity:
When: The pods take 18 to 21 days from pollination to full size. They are best gathered just as they are reaching full size, but before the beans start to swell. They should still snap in half easily. Many people prefer them when they are just slightly smaller in diameter than a pencil. You might try harvesting the pods at different sizes, to see which you like best.
How: The best time to harvest is in the early morning when it is still cool. Gather the pods carefully so you don’t damage the plants. Hold on to the vine and pull down on the pod, so there is no danger of pulling the plant out of the ground.
The best way to harvest older beans is to break off the pod just below its stem and then break sideways and pull, leaving any strings attached to the plant. In humid areas, it’s best not to
transmit disease. You must gather the green beans conscientiously whether you want them or not, as the plants may stop producing when the first seed ripens. If you harvest Pole Beans every 2 to 3 days, it is possible to keep the plants producing for weeks. The key to a large harvest is early and regular picking (just like life, the more you take the more you get). If the harvest gets away from you, remove all the pods of any size. With luck this will encourage a new growth of pods.
Storage
For long term storage green beans can be dried, pickled or frozen.
Storage Req: Canning, Drying, Freezer
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: days
Green beans may be stored in plastic bags in the fridge for a few days. This is usually done until you have harvested enough for a meal.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 32-35°F
Storage Length: 1-7 days
Dry Beans are one of the best keeping food items. Store in a plastic bag, can, or container in a food pantry or cabinet.
Storage Req: Dry
Storage Temp: 60-70°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Storage Req: Canning, Drying, Freezer
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: days
Green beans may be stored in plastic bags in the fridge for a few days. This is usually done until you have harvested enough for a meal.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 32-35°F
Storage Length: 1-7 days
Dry Beans are one of the best keeping food items. Store in a plastic bag, can, or container in a food pantry or cabinet.
Storage Req: Dry
Storage Temp: 60-70°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Beans are among the easiest crops to save seed from, you just grow them like dry beans. They are mostly self-pollinating, though insects may cause some cross-pollination. For this reason it is best to have only one variety flowering at a time if possible. Isolate bean varieties a minimum of 25' for home use. For pure seed an isolation distance of 100-150' is required.
Be aware that some viruses may be transmitted through the seed. Try not to gather from diseased plants.
Seed Viability in Years: 3-5 Years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Be aware that some viruses may be transmitted through the seed. Try not to gather from diseased plants.
Seed Viability in Years: 3-5 Years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary
Taste: Delicious buttery flavor, great eaten fresh or they can be frozen.
Culinary Use: These crisp fresh beans are a favorite prepared in a variety of dishes such as salads or used in soups and stews. They make a wonderful side dish when sauteed with a little oil or combined with other vegetables.
Immature seedpods: raw or cooked. The green pods are commonly used as a vegetable, they have a mild flavor and should only be cooked for a short time. When growing the plant for its seedpods, be sure to pick them whilst they are still small and tender. This will ensure the continued production of more pods by the plant. Flowering is reduced once the seeds begin to form inside the pods. The immature seeds are boiled or steamed and used as a vegetable.
Mature Seeds: The mature seeds are dried and stored for future use. They must be thoroughly cooked before being eaten and are best soaked in water for about 12 hours prior to this. They can be boiled, baked, pureed, ground into a powder or fermented into "tempeh" etc. The powdered seed makes a protein-enriching additive to flour, it can also be used in soups etc. The seed can also be sprouted and used in salads or cooked. The roasted seeds have been used as a coffee substitute.
Young leaves: raw or cooked as a potherb. The very young laves are sometimes eaten as a salad, the older leaves are cooked.
Culinary Use: These crisp fresh beans are a favorite prepared in a variety of dishes such as salads or used in soups and stews. They make a wonderful side dish when sauteed with a little oil or combined with other vegetables.
Immature seedpods: raw or cooked. The green pods are commonly used as a vegetable, they have a mild flavor and should only be cooked for a short time. When growing the plant for its seedpods, be sure to pick them whilst they are still small and tender. This will ensure the continued production of more pods by the plant. Flowering is reduced once the seeds begin to form inside the pods. The immature seeds are boiled or steamed and used as a vegetable.
Mature Seeds: The mature seeds are dried and stored for future use. They must be thoroughly cooked before being eaten and are best soaked in water for about 12 hours prior to this. They can be boiled, baked, pureed, ground into a powder or fermented into "tempeh" etc. The powdered seed makes a protein-enriching additive to flour, it can also be used in soups etc. The seed can also be sprouted and used in salads or cooked. The roasted seeds have been used as a coffee substitute.
Young leaves: raw or cooked as a potherb. The very young laves are sometimes eaten as a salad, the older leaves are cooked.
Medicinal
The green pods are mildly diuretic and contain a substance that reduces the blood sugar level. The dried mature pod is used according to another report. It is used in the treatment of diabetes. The seed is diuretic, hypoglycemic and hypotensive. Ground into a flour, it is used externally in the treatment of ulcers. The seed is also used in the treatment of cancer of the blood. When bruised and boiled with garlic they have cured intractable coughs. The root is dangerously narcotic. A homeopathic remedy is made from the entire fresh herb. It is used in the treatment of rheumatism and arthritis, plus disorders of the urinary tract.
Project Purity Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting
Companions: All bean enrich the soil with nitrogen fixed from the air, improving the conditions for whatever crop you plant after the beans are finished. In general they are good company for carrots, celery, chard, corn, eggplant, peas, potatoes, brassicas, beets, radish, strawberry and cucumbers. Beans are great for heavy nitrogen users like corn and grain plants. French Haricot beans, sweet corn and melons are a good combo. Summer savory deters bean beetles and improves growth and flavor.
Enemies: Keep beans away from the alliums.
Growing tip: Do not allow beans to mature on the plant, or it will stop producing, and do not pick beans or cultivate when they are wet, or it will spread viral diseases.
Enemies: Keep beans away from the alliums.
Growing tip: Do not allow beans to mature on the plant, or it will stop producing, and do not pick beans or cultivate when they are wet, or it will spread viral diseases.
Problems
No serious insect or disease problems. Mosaic viral disease (stunted yellow-mottled leaves), bacterial blight (irregular brown leaf blotches surrounded by yellow halos), and anthracnose (cankered pods) may appear. Additional potential disease problems include powdery mildew and white mold. Mexican bean beetles and Japanese beetles may chew holes in foliage. Watch for aphids and leafhoppers.
MEXICAN BEAN BEETLES
Beneficial insects such as Birds, Toads, Spined Soldier Bugs, Tachinid Flies, and several species of tiny Parasitic Wasps all prey on Asparagus Beetle.
Spined Soldier Bugs: Prey on larvae of Mexican bean beetle, European corn borer, diamondback moth, corn earworm, beet armyworm, fall armyworm, cabbage looper, imported cabbageworm, Colorado potato beetle, velvetbean caterpillar, and flea beetles
To attract Spined Soldier Bugs to your garden try growing: Alfalfa, Apples, Asparagus, Beans, Celery, Cotton, Crucifers, Cucurbits, Eggplant, Onions, Potatoes, Soybeans, Sweet Corn and Tomatoes.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Japanese beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden try growing: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
To attract Spined Soldier Bugs to your garden try growing: Alfalfa, Apples, Asparagus, Beans, Celery, Cotton, Crucifers, Cucurbits, Eggplant, Onions, Potatoes, Soybeans, Sweet Corn and Tomatoes.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Japanese beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden try growing: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
JAPANESE BEETLES
Beneficial insects such as Tachinid Flies, Spiders, Praying Mantids, and Soldier Bugs prey all on Japanese Beetles.
Tachinid Flies: Prey on Gypsy Moths, Japanese Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden try growing: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Spiders: Prey on a wide range including Bed Bugs, Aphids, Roaches, Grasshoppers, Cabbage Looper, and Fruit Flies.
To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving Spiders, mulch for predatory Spiders.
Praying Mantis: Prey on a wide range including Caterpillars, Moths, Beetles, and Crickets.
To attract Praying Mantis to your garden try growing: tall Grasses and Shrubs, Cosmos, Marigolds, and Dills.
Spined Soldier Bugs: Prey on larvae of Mexican Bean Beetle, European Corn Borer, Diamondback Moth, Corn Earworm, Beet Armyworm, Fall Armyworm, Cabbage Looper, Imported Cabbageworm, Colorado Potato Beetle, Velvetbean Caterpillar, and Flea Beetles.
To attract Spined Soldier Bugs to your garden try growing: Alfalfa, Apples, Asparagus, Beans, Celery, Cotton, Crucifers, Cucurbits, Eggplant, Onions, Potatoes, Soybeans, Sweet Corn and Tomatoes.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden try growing: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Spiders: Prey on a wide range including Bed Bugs, Aphids, Roaches, Grasshoppers, Cabbage Looper, and Fruit Flies.
To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving Spiders, mulch for predatory Spiders.
Praying Mantis: Prey on a wide range including Caterpillars, Moths, Beetles, and Crickets.
To attract Praying Mantis to your garden try growing: tall Grasses and Shrubs, Cosmos, Marigolds, and Dills.
Spined Soldier Bugs: Prey on larvae of Mexican Bean Beetle, European Corn Borer, Diamondback Moth, Corn Earworm, Beet Armyworm, Fall Armyworm, Cabbage Looper, Imported Cabbageworm, Colorado Potato Beetle, Velvetbean Caterpillar, and Flea Beetles.
To attract Spined Soldier Bugs to your garden try growing: Alfalfa, Apples, Asparagus, Beans, Celery, Cotton, Crucifers, Cucurbits, Eggplant, Onions, Potatoes, Soybeans, Sweet Corn and Tomatoes.
Aphids
Beneficial insects such as Ladybugs, Collops Beetle, Soldier Beetles, Long-legged Flies, Hover Flies, Predaceous Midges, Damsel Bugs, Big-eyed Bugs, Minute Pirate Bugs, Lacewings, Parasitic Wasps,
Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.
Ladybeetles, Ladybugs, or Ladybird Beetles: Ladybeetles are probably the most well-known of beetles that eat aphids. There are many species, and both the adults and larvae eat aphids. Convergent lady beetles and the seven-spotted ladybeetles are abundant species in the environment. Eggs are found in clutches, yellow and football shaped. Larvae have an alligator-like appearance, and are black with orange markings. Pupae are sedentary. Ladybeetles are commercially available but purchasing is not generally recommended since the adult stage tends to fly away once released. Introductions may be more effective in greenhouses and high tunnels. Diverse plantings can help recruit resident ladybeetles to an area.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina),
Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), \Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris),
Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi),
Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata),
Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina),
Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), \Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris),
Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi),
Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata),
Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
leafhoppers
Beneficial insects such as Lacewings, Damsel Bugs, Lady Beetles, Minute Pirate Bugs, and Spiders all prey on Leafhoppers.
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
Damsel Bugs: Preys on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Flea beetles, Potato beetles, and Cabbage worms.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Ladybeetles, Ladybugs, or Ladybird Beetles: Ladybeetles are probably the most well-known of beetles that eat aphids. There are many species, and both the adults and larvae eat aphids. Convergent lady beetles and the seven-spotted ladybeetles are abundant species in the environment. Eggs are found in clutches, yellow and football shaped. Larvae have an alligator-like appearance, and are black with orange markings. Pupae are sedentary. Ladybeetles are commercially available but purchasing is not generally recommended since the adult stage tends to fly away once released. Introductions may be more effective in greenhouses and high tunnels. Diverse plantings can help recruit resident ladybeetles to an area.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Spiders: Prey on a wide range including bed bugs, aphids, roaches, grasshoppers, cabbage looper, and fruit flies.
To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving spiders, mulch for predatory spiders.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
Damsel Bugs: Preys on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Flea beetles, Potato beetles, and Cabbage worms.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Ladybeetles, Ladybugs, or Ladybird Beetles: Ladybeetles are probably the most well-known of beetles that eat aphids. There are many species, and both the adults and larvae eat aphids. Convergent lady beetles and the seven-spotted ladybeetles are abundant species in the environment. Eggs are found in clutches, yellow and football shaped. Larvae have an alligator-like appearance, and are black with orange markings. Pupae are sedentary. Ladybeetles are commercially available but purchasing is not generally recommended since the adult stage tends to fly away once released. Introductions may be more effective in greenhouses and high tunnels. Diverse plantings can help recruit resident ladybeetles to an area.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Spiders: Prey on a wide range including bed bugs, aphids, roaches, grasshoppers, cabbage looper, and fruit flies.
To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving spiders, mulch for predatory spiders.
Nutrition
Beans are rich in iron and potassium.
The Health Benefits of Green Beans
Cardiovascular Disease: Green beans can help reduce the risk of heart disease due to their high levels of flavonoids. Flavonoids are polyphenolic antioxidants that are commonly found in fruits and vegetables. Green beans have high levels of flavonoids and these antioxidants have certain anti-inflammatory properties. Test subjects with high flavonoid levels experienced anti-thrombotic results, preventing blood clots in the arteries and veins. Cardiovascular disease, heart attacks, and strokes are commonly caused by thrombotic activity, which means that a healthy volume of green beans and flavonoids in a diet can help prevent some of these conditions.
Colon Cancer: Recent studies have shown green bean consumption to be beneficial for preventing pre-cancerous polyps that commonly lead to colon cancer. Many studies have tried to link dry bean intake to cancer prevention, with limited results. However, new evidence suggests that increasing dietary green bean intake can reduce the risk of cancerous adenoma recurrence and colorectal cancer. More studies are ongoing, but that linkage is very important.
Secondly, the high fiber content of green beans can also positively impact your digestive system. Certain types of fiber can ease the digestive process and promote healthy bowel movements, which decreases the stress on the intestinal tract. Certain studies have shown a positive correlation between increased fiber intake and a reduction in colon cancer, but again, more research is still being performed.
Diabetes: These power-packed legumes have been shown to help manage and regulate diabetes symptoms in many patients. Certain studies have shown a definitive hypoglycemic influence on patients with diabetes. Diabetes is a condition that requires constant maintenance of blood sugar levels at a normal level so the body can perform necessary tasks. Natural regulators of diabetes are rare, and the connection of beans and similar plants to the control or early prevention of diabetes is great news for many people.
Immune System: The presence of various immune system-boosting antioxidants in green beans is well known, but as more research on their benefits is done, it is becoming clear that there are far more antioxidant properties than we previously thought. Antioxidants are beneficial compounds in our body that seek out dangerous free radicals and eliminate them from our system before they can cause illness or tissue damage. Green beans are a good source of flavonoids and carotenoids, but the variety of those pigments was previously unknown. Flavonoids contain basic antioxidants like quercetin and kamferol, but also more useful and beneficial ones like catechins and epicatechins.
Catechins have been shown to reduce the severity of strokes. Carotenoids found in green beans contain antioxidants like beta carotene and lutein. Beta carotene has been linked to a number of benefits within the body.
Eye Health: Certain specific carotenoids that are found in green beans can also prevent macular degeneration, which is a decrease in vision and eye function. Lutein and Zeaxanthin are focused at the macula on the eye, and play a key role in preventing any stress to the inner workings of the eye. Ensuring that these carotenoid levels stay strong to prevent vision deterioration is one of the many benefits of including green beans in your balanced diet.
Bone Health: There are a number of nutrients, such as calcium, found in green beans that are integral in preventing bone deterioration and osteoporosis. Green beans contain vitamin K, vitamin A, and silicon. Deficiencies in many of these compounds have been connected to increased bone loss, strength, and durability. Silicon is not the most common mineral to hear about, and significant amounts are relatively rare in most foods. However, green beans are a terrific source for silicon, which is a key element in bone regeneration and overall bone health.
Gastrointestinal Issues: Green beans are packed with fiber, which is a hugely beneficial compound in our bodies. By keeping enough fiber in our diets, we are able to ease certain digestive issues like constipation, hemorrhoids, ulcers, and acid reflux disease. These conditions range from mild irritants to potentially life threatening, and the amount of fiber we consume is a key element in their prevention. In a normal serving of green beans, which is 110 grams, you can gain 15% of the daily recommended amount of fiber. Green beans are one of the best vegetables to keep your stomach working properly.
Pre-Natal Health: Green beans are also a great source of folic acid, which plays a key role in a number of internal processes, but none are more important than protecting infants in the womb. Folic acid levels in a woman’s body are vital to the normal and healthy development of the fetus in utero, especially in preventing neural tube defects. Green beans provide an easy and delicious way to keep folic acid levels high, and ensure a healthy and happy baby.
Green Beans Health Risks: Green beans are one of those foods with extremely few risk factors, but there are always certain things to be wary of.
Phytates: Phytic acid is present in green beans and can contribute to nutrient deficiencies when overeaten. Phytic acid bonds with calcium, zinc, and other important minerals and does not allow them to be absorbed by the body. Although the phytate levels in green beans are relatively low, if you suffer from other conditions that cause mineral deficiency, the addition of more phytic acid might not be the best choice for you. Also, cooking or soaking beans significantly reduces amounts of phytic acid, so just avoid eating them raw if you are concerned about phytate levels.
Lectins: Lectins are carb-binding proteins found in a variety of foods, but are notoriously present in beans. Green beans happen to have lower levels than others, but it is still there, and too much lectin can cause the proteins to bind up the intestinal system and cause a variety of digestive problems. Similar to phytic acid, cooking at high temperatures or prolonged soaking in water can reduce the lectin content of most foods.
Allergies: As with any food, some people are allergic to green beans and other legumes, so make sure to consult with a doctor about how to treat your food allergies, or find other, less discomfiting foods to add into your diet rather than green beans.
Colon Cancer: Recent studies have shown green bean consumption to be beneficial for preventing pre-cancerous polyps that commonly lead to colon cancer. Many studies have tried to link dry bean intake to cancer prevention, with limited results. However, new evidence suggests that increasing dietary green bean intake can reduce the risk of cancerous adenoma recurrence and colorectal cancer. More studies are ongoing, but that linkage is very important.
Secondly, the high fiber content of green beans can also positively impact your digestive system. Certain types of fiber can ease the digestive process and promote healthy bowel movements, which decreases the stress on the intestinal tract. Certain studies have shown a positive correlation between increased fiber intake and a reduction in colon cancer, but again, more research is still being performed.
Diabetes: These power-packed legumes have been shown to help manage and regulate diabetes symptoms in many patients. Certain studies have shown a definitive hypoglycemic influence on patients with diabetes. Diabetes is a condition that requires constant maintenance of blood sugar levels at a normal level so the body can perform necessary tasks. Natural regulators of diabetes are rare, and the connection of beans and similar plants to the control or early prevention of diabetes is great news for many people.
Immune System: The presence of various immune system-boosting antioxidants in green beans is well known, but as more research on their benefits is done, it is becoming clear that there are far more antioxidant properties than we previously thought. Antioxidants are beneficial compounds in our body that seek out dangerous free radicals and eliminate them from our system before they can cause illness or tissue damage. Green beans are a good source of flavonoids and carotenoids, but the variety of those pigments was previously unknown. Flavonoids contain basic antioxidants like quercetin and kamferol, but also more useful and beneficial ones like catechins and epicatechins.
Catechins have been shown to reduce the severity of strokes. Carotenoids found in green beans contain antioxidants like beta carotene and lutein. Beta carotene has been linked to a number of benefits within the body.
Eye Health: Certain specific carotenoids that are found in green beans can also prevent macular degeneration, which is a decrease in vision and eye function. Lutein and Zeaxanthin are focused at the macula on the eye, and play a key role in preventing any stress to the inner workings of the eye. Ensuring that these carotenoid levels stay strong to prevent vision deterioration is one of the many benefits of including green beans in your balanced diet.
Bone Health: There are a number of nutrients, such as calcium, found in green beans that are integral in preventing bone deterioration and osteoporosis. Green beans contain vitamin K, vitamin A, and silicon. Deficiencies in many of these compounds have been connected to increased bone loss, strength, and durability. Silicon is not the most common mineral to hear about, and significant amounts are relatively rare in most foods. However, green beans are a terrific source for silicon, which is a key element in bone regeneration and overall bone health.
Gastrointestinal Issues: Green beans are packed with fiber, which is a hugely beneficial compound in our bodies. By keeping enough fiber in our diets, we are able to ease certain digestive issues like constipation, hemorrhoids, ulcers, and acid reflux disease. These conditions range from mild irritants to potentially life threatening, and the amount of fiber we consume is a key element in their prevention. In a normal serving of green beans, which is 110 grams, you can gain 15% of the daily recommended amount of fiber. Green beans are one of the best vegetables to keep your stomach working properly.
Pre-Natal Health: Green beans are also a great source of folic acid, which plays a key role in a number of internal processes, but none are more important than protecting infants in the womb. Folic acid levels in a woman’s body are vital to the normal and healthy development of the fetus in utero, especially in preventing neural tube defects. Green beans provide an easy and delicious way to keep folic acid levels high, and ensure a healthy and happy baby.
Green Beans Health Risks: Green beans are one of those foods with extremely few risk factors, but there are always certain things to be wary of.
Phytates: Phytic acid is present in green beans and can contribute to nutrient deficiencies when overeaten. Phytic acid bonds with calcium, zinc, and other important minerals and does not allow them to be absorbed by the body. Although the phytate levels in green beans are relatively low, if you suffer from other conditions that cause mineral deficiency, the addition of more phytic acid might not be the best choice for you. Also, cooking or soaking beans significantly reduces amounts of phytic acid, so just avoid eating them raw if you are concerned about phytate levels.
Lectins: Lectins are carb-binding proteins found in a variety of foods, but are notoriously present in beans. Green beans happen to have lower levels than others, but it is still there, and too much lectin can cause the proteins to bind up the intestinal system and cause a variety of digestive problems. Similar to phytic acid, cooking at high temperatures or prolonged soaking in water can reduce the lectin content of most foods.
Allergies: As with any food, some people are allergic to green beans and other legumes, so make sure to consult with a doctor about how to treat your food allergies, or find other, less discomfiting foods to add into your diet rather than green beans.
A brown dye is obtained from red kidney beans. The plant contains phaseolin, which has fungicidal activity. Water from the cooked beans is very effective in reviving woolen fabrics. The plant residue remaining after harvesting the dried beans is a source of biomass.
suggested varieties
Beets: Detroit Dark Red (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
Detroit Dark Red heirloom beets hail from Ontario, Canada, where a Mr. Reeves developed them from blood turnips. This globular beet first made its appearance in 1892. However, beets seem to have originated in the Mediterranean region, where people grew them for thousands of years. Later, beets grew in Germany and Holland and were used as cattle fodder; they were later imported to England for this purpose, but the poor began to raise them for an affordable food source. American colonists later brought them to the New World, where they became a commonly enjoyed food both for their roots and their greens.
Broccoli: Green Sprouting Calabrese (Organic) (Brassica oleracea var. italica)
$1.00 - $5.60
Calabrese Green Sprouting Broccoli is an Italian Heirloom that was named after Calabria (a region in southern Italy). It is known as the most favorable broccoli due to its ability to produce a larger number of heads on lots of thin stalks.
Broccoli: Purple Sprouting (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. italica)
$1.00 - $5.60
Though this extremely cold hardy Purple Sprouting broccoli was bred in England, the plant from which modern broccoli is derived first grew in the wild in the Mediterranean region and in Asia Minor. The Italians appreciated it so much that it got the name "Italian asparagus." Broccoli gradually spread to the rest of Europe and to the New World, where Thomas Jefferson included this strange new vegetable in his experimental garden.
Broccoli: Waltham 29 (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. italica)
$1.00 - $5.60
The heirloom broccoli variety Waltham 29 is named for Waltham, MA, where researchers at the University of Massachusetts developed it in 1950. However, the plant from which modern broccoli is derived first grew in the wild in the Mediterranean region and in Asia Minor. Broccoli gradually spread to the rest of Europe and to the New World, where Thomas Jefferson included this strange new vegetable in his experimental garden. The Italians appreciated it so much that it got the name "Italian asparagus." After World War I, Italian brothers Stefano and Andrea D'Arrigo brought their Sicilian variety of broccoli and began growing it in San Jose, Calfornia; they later shipped it to Boston's North End, where it established a quickly expanding market.
Brussels Sprout: Long Island Improved (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. gemmifera)
$1.00 - $5.60
Historians believe that the ancient Romans first cultivated Brussels sprouts, but Belgium has the greatest claim on this tiny vegetable. As the name indicates, Brussels sprouts grew in great abundance around the city of Brussels. Since the 1900's, growers in California has produced most of the United States' supply of this vegetable; Long Island Improved in particular is a favorite variety of commercial growers.
Cabbage: Early Jersey Wakefield (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
$1.00 - $5.60
The first Early Jersey Wakefield cabbages were raised in 1840 by a man named Francis Brill of Jersey City, New Jersey. Thirty years later, seed companies all over the region offered this seed for sale; growers appreciated its early harvest and small, tender heads.
Cabbage: Late Flat Dutch (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
$1.00 - $5.60
Late Flat Dutch cabbage can be traced back to 1840, when the earliest mention of this variety is found in the seed records of the Netherlands. German immigrants carried the seed with them to America, where it spread; by 1924, it could be found in local seed catalogs such as D. M. Ferry & Company.
Cabbage: Red Acre (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
$1.00 - $5.60
Cabbage is considered one of the oldest cultivated vegetables, since historians trace it back to 4,000 BC in China. The Romans also cultivated it and praised it for its healing qualities; philosophers Pythagoras and Cato both made the lowly cabbage the subject of a book. Jacques Cartier brought the first cabbage to America in 1536. Cabbages were quite popular in colonial America, being pickled and preserved in every possible way to provide food for the winter.
Cabbage, Chinese: Pak Choi (Heirloom) (Brassica rapa var. chinensis)
$1.00 - $5.60
Chinese cabbage dates back to the 15th century in China, when a pharmacologist of the Ming Dynasty considered it nutritionally beneficial. Later it became the main ingredient in kim chi, the national dish of Korea; Japanese soldiers also discovered Chinese cabbage and took it home with them after the war. Americans became familiar with this vegetable in the late 19th century.
Carrots: Chantenay Red Cored (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
Introduced from France in the late 1800s. Blocky, broad-shouldered variety with blunt tip, about 5-1/2" long and 2-1/2" at the shoulder. Deep orange interior. Adaptable to clay and a wide range of soils. A versatile, good winter keeper that is quite tasty, raw or cooked. Stores well in the ground. Becomes sweeter in storage.
Carrots: Cosmic Purple (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The first mention of red, white, and purple carrots can be found in the records of both Afghanistan and Egypt. Yellow carrots, on the other hand, date back to Turkish records from the 900's. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California.
Carrots: Danvers (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The origin of carrots is somewhat obscure, but early records from many civilizations refer to this colorful root. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California. Danvers carrots in particular come from Danvers, Massachusetts, where the Eastern States Farmers Exchange introduced them in 1947.
Carrots: Rainbow Blend (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
Festive Color and Flavor Mix of Purple, Yellow, Red and White Carrots is sure to delight—each with their own unique qualities. Purple has smooth skin, coreless orange flesh and is sweet and tasty. Solar Yellow holds its sunny hue inside and out, is crunchy, sweet and juicy. Lunar White is mild and delicious, and Atomic Red has high lycopene levels as well as a crispy texture that is great cooked.
Carrots: Scarlet Nantes (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The origin of carrots is somewhat obscure, but early records from many civilizations refer to this colorful root. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. The 19th century seed specialist Louis de Vilmorin introduced the French varieties of carrot such as Nantes and Chantenay, which both derive their names from their places of origin. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California.
Carrots: Tendersweet (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The origin of carrots is somewhat obscure, but early records from many civilizations refer to this colorful root. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. The Dutch were the among the first to cultivate the orange carrot; legend has it that their intent was to honor William of Orange. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California.
Cauliflower: Snowball Y Improved (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. botrytis)
$1.00 - $5.60
In spite of Mark Twain's opinion that cauliflower is nothing but cabbage with a college education, this vegetable enjoyed extreme popularity in the palaces of French royalty such as Louis XIV. Its origin is thought to be Cyprus, though records also show its presence in Arab, Mediterranean, and African countries and the Roman Empire. By the 17th century, cauliflower had reached England; Italian immigrants were the first to appreciate its culinary qualities and bring it to America, where it soon grew in nearly every family and commercial garden.
Celery: Tendercrisp (Heirloom) (Apium graveolens var. dulce)
$1.00 - $5.60
No one really knows where celery originated, though claims come from such diverse locations as Sweden, New Zealand, and Algeria. Experts believe it probably was first cultivated in the Mediterranean basin. In ancient times, celery was valued primarily for its medicinal benefits; French and Italian cooks first started making use of it for an herb or flavoring in the seventeenth century. A Scotsman named George Taylor is credited with bringing celery to United States, when he grew it in his garden and offered it to the guests at a local ball.
Celery: Utah Tall 52/70 (Heirloom) (Apium graveolens var. dulce)
$1.00 - $5.60
No one really knows where celery originated, though claims come from such diverse locations as Sweden, New Zealand, and Algeria. Experts believe it probably was first cultivated in the Mediterranean basin. In ancient times, celery was valued primarily for its medicinal benefits; French and Italian cooks first started making use of it for an herb or flavoring in the seventeenth century. A Scotsman named George Taylor is credited with bringing celery to United States, when he grew it in his garden and offered it to the guests at a local ball.
Coriander: Leisure (Coriandrum sativum)
$1.00 - $5.60
The coriander plant, whose leaves are known as cilantro, is native to the Mediterranean and Middle Easter countries; it is believed to be one of the earliest spices used by man. Early physicians such as Hippocrates used coriander primarily as an aromatic stimulant or to disguise the taste of unsavory medicines. Nearly every part of this herb has a culinary use; in Thai cuisine, the roots flavor spicy sauces, while the cilantro leaves season and garnish Chinese, Vietnamese, and Mexican dishes. The coriander seed is used in candy, specialty breads, sauces, desserts, and even perfumes. In Tudor England, coriander seeds coated with sugar were known as "comfits" and became a popular treat.
Corn: Country Gentleman-Open Pollinated (Heirloom) (Zea mays)
$1.00 - $5.60
Country Gentleman corn, a heirloom variety, is the most well known variety of shoepeg corn. Named for the similarity of its kernels to wooden pegs used in shoe making, shoepeg corn is characterized by small, irregular white kernels of unsurpassed tenderness and sweetness. The American South has made this type of corn its own, and it is virtually unrecognized in other areas of the United States. Country Gentleman was first offered for sale in 1890 by S. D. Woodruff & Sons.
Corn: Golden Bantam-Open Pollinated (Heirloom) (Zea mays)
$1.00 - $5.60
A Greenfield, Massachusetts native named J. G. Pickett is credited with developing this marvelous variety of corn. Later, seed expert E. L. Coy sent it to Burpee with the note, "you now own the very richest and sweetest corn ever known."
Corn, Popcorn: Shaman's Blue (Hybrid) Open Pollinated (Zea mays)
$1.00 - $5.60
Blue corn originated in the Andes Mountains of Peru, where the native peoples usually ground it into flour for cooking. Indians of Mexico and the southwestern United States also widely used this corn, since its dryness made it an excellent flour corn and gave it good resistance to disease. This exciting blue popcorn receives high marks for both visual and taste appeal. The unique blue/purple kernel pops into mounds of snow white popcorn that will satisfy any popcorn lover with its slightly sweet flavor.
Cosmos: Bright Lights (Cosmos sulphureus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Because of their Mexican heritage, these bright annuals meet high heat and drought conditions with native beauty and vigor. Spanish conquistadors searching for gold discovered these flowers on their journeys through Mexico. Mission gardens often included these flowers, which priests gave the name “cosmos,” the Greek word for a harmonious whole, because of their neatly spaced petals. Cosmos flowers made their way to England with Spanish ambassadors in the late 18th century, and to the United States in the following century.
Cosmos: Candy Stripe (Cosmos bipinnatus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Because of their Mexican heritage, these bright annuals meet high heat and drought conditions with native beauty and vigor. Spanish conquistadors searching for gold discovered these flowers on their journeys through Mexico. Mission gardens often included these flowers, which priests gave the name “cosmos,” the Greek word for a harmonious whole, because of their neatly spaced petals. Cosmos flowers made their way to England with Spanish ambassadors in the late 18th century, and to the United States in the following century.
Cosmos: Radiance (Cosmos bipinnatus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Because of their Mexican heritage, these bright annuals meet high heat and drought conditions with native beauty and vigor. Spanish conquistadors searching for gold discovered these flowers on their journeys through Mexico. Mission gardens often included these flowers, which priests gave the name “cosmos,” the Greek word for a harmonious whole, because of their neatly spaced petals. Cosmos flowers made their way to England with Spanish ambassadors in the late 18th century, and to the United States in the following century.
Cucumber: Lemon (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Historians generally agree that the first cucumbers grew in India's Himalayan Mountains over 3,000 years ago. From this region they expanded into Greece and Rome; the Romans most likely spread this vegetable to the rest of Europe. The cucumber was widely grown by native Americans through the influence of the Spanish and other explorers. Cucumbers continue to be a vital part of traditional cuisine in Russia and many parts of Asia; the greatest variety of colors and shapes of this vegetable can still be found in its Asian birthplace. Lemon cucumbers in particular can be traced back to the gardens of the 1890s.
Cucumber: Marketmore 76' (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Historians generally agree that the first cucumbers grew in India's Himalayan Mountains over 3,000 years ago. From this region they expanded into Greece and Rome; the Romans most likely spread this vegetable to the rest of Europe. The cucumber was widely grown by native Americans through the influence of the Spanish and other explorers. Cucumbers continue to be a vital part of traditional cuisine in Russia and many parts of Asia; the greatest variety of colors and shapes of this vegetable can still be found in its Asian birthplace. Marketmore cucumbers in particular were developed at Cornell University of New York, but Dr. Henry Munger.
Cucumber: Mexican Sour Gherkin (Heirloom) (Melothria scabra)
$1.00 - $5.60
Sold out
Melothria scabra is a vine grown for its edible fruit. Fruit are about the size of grapes and taste like cucumbers with a tinge of sourness. Vernacular names include mouse melon, Mexican sour gherkin, cucamelon, Mexican miniature watermelon, Mexican sour cucumber and pepquinos. This plant is native to Mexico and Central America, where it is called sandiita (little watermelon). It is believed to have been a domesticated crop before western contact began.
Cucumber: National Pickling (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
National Pickling cucumbers in particular come from the research of George Starr of Michigan State University, who was commissioned by the National Pickle Packers Association to produce a pickle that would perform equally well for small and large pickles. The resulting cucumber excelled all expectations when it was offered to the public in 1924.
Cucumber: Straight Eight (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Historians generally agree that the first cucumbers grew in India's Himalyan Mountains over 3,000 years ago. From this region they expanded into Greece and Rome; the Romans most likely spread this vegetable to the rest of Europe. The cucumber was widely grown by native Americans through the influence of the Spanish and other explorers. Cucumbers continue to be a vital part of traditional cuisine in Russia and many parts of Asia; the greatest variety of colors and shapes of this vegetable can still be found in its Asian birthplace. Straight Eight cucumbers in particular were developed because of the demand for straight cucumbers; they exceeded all expectations, and won the AAS Gold Medal Award in 1935.
Cucumber: Sumter (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Perfect for pickling, this disease resistant cucumber variety produces blocky, slightly tapered, medium green fruit with white spines. Widely adapted for growing in all regions, for home or market. Tender annual 4' vines, 5" fruit. Disease Resistant to Powdery Mildew, Downy Mildew, Alternaria Leaf Spot and tolerant to Cucumber Mosaic Virus.
Cucumber: Wisconsin SMR 58 (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Historians generally agree that the first cucumbers grew in India's Himalayan Mountains over 3,000 years ago. From this region they expanded into Greece and Rome; the Romans most likely spread this vegetable to the rest of Europe. The cucumber was widely grown by native Americans through the influence of the Spanish and other explorers. Cucumbers continue to be a vital part of traditional cuisine in Russia and many parts of Asia; the greatest variety of colors and shapes of this vegetable can still be found in its Asian birthplace. As the name suggests, the Wisconsin SMR 58 cucumber comes from the University of Wisconsin; it soon achieved the title of the best non-hybrid pickling cucumber.
Dill: Dukat (Anethum graveolens)
$1.00 - $5.60
Historical records suggest that dill has been used for medicinal purposes for over 5,000 years; its primary use was to calm the digestion and treat stomach ailments, hence its name from an old Saxon word meaning "to lull." Ancient Greek tradition suggested covering the head with dill leaves to induce sleep, while many herbal remedies from ages past recommend dill to soothe colicky babies. Traditionally, dill was thought to bring good fortune, protection, and wealth. Though the origin of dill's famous association with the pickle is not known, an 1640 recipe from the cook of England's King Charles I requires dill in its pickled cucumbers. Today, German, Greek, and Scandinavian cuisine most often include dill.
Eggplant: Black Beauty (Heirloom) (Solanum melongena var. esculentum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Eggplants date back to medieval times where they were called mad apples. A staple of regions of Asia, known as the "king of vegetables". Eggplant comes in all shapes colors and sizes. Black Beauty is one of the earliest and dates back to the early 1900's.
Eggplant: Golden Egg (Solanum Melongena)
$1.00 - $5.60
Ornamental Eggplant is a very unique tropical annual that produce purple flowers and egg-shaped, edible fruit that begin white and turn golden upon maturity. Excellent choices for pots and containers, ornamental hedge, or house plant.
Eggplant: Long Purple (Heirloom) (Solanum melongena)
$1.00 - $5.60
This Italian heirloom eggplant, Long Purple, produces dark purple cucumber-shaped fruit with firm, mild flesh. Good yields, especially in northern climates! Plants will typically produce 4 or more 8-10" fruits with harvest beginning in 70 to 80 days. Average water needs. Some parts of plant are poisonous if ingested.
Kale: Lacinato (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea - Acephala Group)
$1.00 - $5.60
Technically a form of leafy non-heading cabbage, kale has been traced to ancient Greek and Roman civilizations. Early forms of this plant probably came from in Asia Minor or the Mediterranean region, though it is such an ancient plant no one can be sure of its origin. The first recorded mention of kale in America comes from a 1669 publication; European influence probably brought kale to America. Though kale is still a relatively minor crop in the States, it thrives in European kitchen gardens. Lacinato in particular is a variety of Tuscan kale, which is an heirloom vegetable from eighteenth century Italy.
Kale: Ornamental Mix (Hybrid) (Brassica oleracea - Acephala Group)
$1.00 - $5.60
Ornamental Kale provides amazing color from early fall well into winter with frilly green outer leaves and pink, white or purple centers. As the rest of the flowers in the garden are dying down, Ornamental Kale is just getting started!
Kale: Red Russian (Heirloom) (Brassica Oleracea - Acephala Group)
$1.00 - $5.60
Technically a form of leafy non-heading cabbage, kale has been traced to ancient Greek and Roman civilizations. Early forms of this plant probably came from in Asia Minor or the Mediterranean region, though it is such an ancient plant no one can be sure of its origin. The first recorded mention of kale in America comes from a 1669 publication; European influence probably brought kale to America. Though kale is still a relatively minor crop in the States, it thrives in European kitchen gardens. Red Russian kale in particular is an heirloom variety that comes from the late nineteenth century, when Russian traders introduced it to Canada.
Kohlrabi: Purple Vienna (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. gongylodes)
$1.00 - $5.60
Named for a German word meaning "cabbage turnip," kohlrabi was developed first around the 16th century in northern Europe. By the end of that century, it had spread throughout the rest of the continent as well as to the Mediterranean region. The first recorded mention of kohlrabi in the States is found in the early 16th century. More recently, the countries of China, Israel, and Africa have discovered this vegetable; it has become quite a staple of northern Indian cuisine. Purple Vienna heirloom kohlrabi in particular dates back to 1863.
Balm: Lemon (Melissa officinalis)
$1.00 - $5.60
Lemon balm was most likely introduced to Spain by the Moors in the 7th century; by the Middle Ages, it was common throughout Europe. Its Latin name, Melissa, means “bee” in Greek and refers to the plant's tendency to attract bees; first century Roman naturalist Pliny the Elder recommended that lemon balm be cultivated near bee hives to prevent the bees from straying. A member of the mint family, lemon balm dates back over 2,000 years for use as a medicinal herb primarily to treat stress and anxiety, insomnia, and indigestion. Eleventh century Persian physician and philosopher Avicenna wrote of the benefits of lemon balm in treating low spirits or melancholy. According to an old Arabian proverb, “Balm makes the heart merry and joyful.” According to historical record, both King Charles V of France and Emperor Charles V drank lemon balm beverages to improve their health; lemon balm was also one of the plants grown in Thomas Jefferson’s famous experimental garden. Today, herbal treatments containing lemon balm often include other calming herbs such as valerian, chamomile, and hops to encourage relaxation.
Marigolds: Sparky Mix French (Tagetes patula)
$1.00 - $5.60
This easy-to-grow French marigold will bloom all season long. Compact mounds up to 12 inches tall will produce vivid bi-color orange and yellow flowers with an unusual form. This unique flower has wider, wavy petals that make these blossoms spectacular when planted en masse. A beautiful choice for containers as well as gardens.
Marigolds: Naughty Marietta (Tagetes patula)
$1.00 - $5.60
For non-stop bloom until frost, there's nothing better than French marigolds. The single flowers are golden yellow with mahogany streaks, and are very attractive to bees and butterflies. Ideal for planting along borders, or among vegetables to deter pests. Also makes a perfect container plant for pots or window boxes. The deeply divided foliage forms a bushy mound up to 12 inches high.
Marigold: White (Tagetes Erecta 'Kilimanjaro')
$1.00 - $5.60
Commonly called African marigold, Aztec marigold, American marigold or big marigold, is native to Mexico and Central America. Big marigold may be the best descriptive name because plants are noted for their large flowerheads. They typically grow from 1-4’ tall and feature huge, mostly double-globular flowers (2-4” diameter) in various shades of yellow, orange, and whitish. This variety is unaffected by high summer heat and generally blooms throughout the summer.
Mustard: Red Giant (Heirloom) (Brassica juncea)
$1.00 - $5.60
Mustard greens originated near the Himalayan region of northern India, where they have been growing for thousands of years. Chinese, Japanese, and African cuisine also make use of this peppery vegetable. Though not particularly well known in most parts of the United States, mustard greens are a traditional part of culture in the southern region.
Mustard: Tendergreen (Heirloom) (Brassica rapa var. perviridis)
$1.00 - $5.60
Mustard greens originated near the Himalayan region of northern India, where they have been growing for thousands of years. Chinese, Japanese, and African cuisine also make use of this peppery vegetable. Though not particularly well known in most parts of the United States, mustard greens are a traditional part of culture in the southern region.
Parsley: Italian Giant (Heirloom) (Petroselinum crispum var. neapolitanum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Parsley has a long and colorful history, being well known in many cultures. Myths and legends abound concerning this herb, making it the symbol of such widely varying things as death, victory, and life. One colonial superstition connecting parsley with death held such power that many farmers refused to grow this herb at all. Curly leaved parsley is the most well known and commonly available herb; it contains vitamins A and C as well as other valuable antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals.
Pea: Alaska (Heirloom) (Pisum sativum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Alaska peas, first known as Earliest of All Pea, (Pisum sativum) are a type of English garden pea from Bedford, England that was introduced in 1881 by Thomas Laxton. They are a result of the crossing of Ringleader and Little Gem peas. They contain less sugar and matures earlier than other pea plant cultivars. They were introduced in the United States in 1882 by James J.H. Gregory and have been one of the most popular pea varieties ever since. These peas are sturdy, grow well in cooler weather and are adapted for a shorter growing season. With optimal growing conditions, these flavorful legumes will develop rapidly and be ready for harvest in under two months.
Pea: Early Frosty (Heirloom) (Pisum sativum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Though no one really knows when peas were first cultivated, historians can be certain that people grew them for food by the Bronze Age. Legend has it that fresh peas first became popular when a French gardener introduced them to the court of Louis XIV. Because they could be dried and stored for long periods of time, people in colonial times also valued this vegetable. Horticulturalists and gardeners alike have continued cultivating peas of all varieties and sizes.
Radish: Early Scarlet Globe (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Early Scarlet Globe is an early variety of radish and an favorite of many home gardeners because it matures in just 23 days! Though their exact origin is unknown, certainly have been growing in America since the late 19th century. After reviewing an assortment of the early radishes then available, the June 1913 issue of "Garden Magazine" said of Scarlet Globe, "it remains in good table condition longer than any of the early sorts mentioned above."
Radish: German Giant (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Radishes, in their early forms, come from the ancient civilizations of China, Greece, and Egypt; soon, surrounding nations also cultivated this vegetable. While the Oriental nations cultivated the large, elongated radishes, most of the round varieties such as German Giant were developed by the Dutch and the French. German Giant, as the name suggests, is an Amish heirloom that originated in Germany.
Radish: Watermelon (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
The Watermelon radish is a type of Japanese winter radish also known as a "daikon," which simply means "large root" in Japanese. Daikon radishes account for the largest percentage of any cultivated vegetable in Japan, and can be found in some form in nearly every meal of that country. Watermelon radishes, which orginated in north China near Beijing, are often served sweetened there as a dessert or fruit.
Radish: White Spear Sprouting (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
White Spear is a type of Japanese winter radish also known as a "daikon," which simply means "large root" in Japanese. Daikon radishes account for the largest percentage of any cultivated vegetable in Japan, and can be found in some form in nearly every meal of that country.
Turnips: Purple Top White Globe (Heirloom) (Brassica rapa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Purple Top White Globe Turnip , which has been grown in American gardens since the early 19th century, is one of the most popular for home gardens. The 1881 D. M. Ferry seed catalog says that turnip is "of beautiful appearance, of most excellent quality, and equally desirable for table or stock".
Yarrow: Red (Achillea millefolium rubra)
$1.00 - $5.60
Native to Southern Europe, yarrow has been a traditional part of herb gardens for hundreds of years because of its fragrant foliage and cheerful, long lasting flowers. Yarrow can often be found in fields, along roads, or on rocky hillsides. Linnaeus named it for Greek general Achilles, who according to legend received yarrow as a gift from the gods; the general’s soldiers used yarrow to stanch the flow of their blood in the battlefields of the Trojan War. In the early days of the American prairies, Native American tribes such as the Pawnee, Cherokee, and Chippewa used common yarrow to relieve pain and headaches, reduce fever, and induce sleep. When taken internally as a tea, yarrow purifies the system and has anti-inflammatory benefits. Cosmetic preparations sometimes include yarrow because of its cleansing, refreshing effect. Medicinal use of yarrow is not recommended for expectant mothers.
Yarrow: White (Achillea millefolium)
$1.00 - $5.60
Native to Southern Europe, yarrow has been a traditional part of herb gardens for hundreds of years because of its fragrant foliage and cheerful, long lasting flowers. Yarrow can often be found in fields, along roads, or on rocky hillsides. Linnaeus named it for Greek general Achilles, who according to legend received yarrow as a gift from the gods; the general’s soldiers used yarrow to stanch the flow of their blood in the battlefields of the Trojan War. In the early days of the American prairies, Native American tribes such as the Pawnee, Cherokee, and Chippewa used common yarrow to relieve pain and headaches, reduce fever, and induce sleep. When taken internally as a tea, yarrow purifies the system and has anti-inflammatory benefits. Cosmetic preparations sometimes include yarrow because of its cleansing, refreshing effect. Medicinal use of yarrow is not recommended for expectant mothers.