Melon, Cantaloupe: Honey Dew Green Flesh (Heirloom) (Cucumis melo var. inodorus)
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The first honeydew in America, a variety called White Antibes, came from France in 1900. Being a warm weather crop, it soon became well established especially in the gardens of the southwestern states. Honeydew are now widely grown for commercial markets, especially in the states of California, Texas, and Arizona.
Scientific Name: Cucumis melo var. inodorus
Ease of Growing: Moderate
Grown as: Annual
Days to Maturity: 110 days
Growing Habit: Vine
Hardiness: Very Tender. Melons can't tolerate cold weather.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Summer
Growing Season: Long
Growing Conditions: Warm, Hot, Long days. Melons must have hot (ideally 90° F) sunny weather if they are to make the sugar needed to produce sweet fruits. In cooler areas you need to give them as much sun and heat as possible. They should also be sheltered from cool winds. I must emphasize that if Melons don't get enough heat they won't taste very good (even if they successfully produce fruit.)
Outdoor Growing Temp: 65°F - 95°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 70°F. Melons need warm weather, so don’t plant them until all danger of frost is past and the soil temperature is at least 70˚ F.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Warm, Hot). Melon is a desert plant and needs full sun.
Water: Moderate. Melons need to produce a lot of leaves to make enough sugar to produce sweet fruit. To do this they need a constant supply of water. The best way to water them is with a drip system or soaker hose, as they don't like having wet leaves (this encourages fungus disease).
Feeder: Heavy. Not surprisingly for such a large and vigorous plant, melons are fairly hungry feeders. Melons don't need a lot of nitrogen as it encourages leaf growth at the expense of fruit. They do like phosphorus (give them colloidal phosphate) and potassium (wood ashes), as well as boron and magnesium.
Suitability: High heat, Needs lots of space
Small Gardens?: Yes
Containers?: Yes, but will need a large one, like a half wine barrel. Most melons are too big to comfortably grow in containers, but a few of the smaller cultivars will work if the container is big enough (at least 18" wide and deep and preferably bigger). This is sometimes done in cool climates, where the plants are grown in greenhouses. When growing such large plants in containers you have to be particularly attentive to watering. You will probably need to support them too.
Attracts beneficial insects?: No
Forage: Rabbits.
Plant Height: 6-12"
Spacing: 5-6'
Sow Depth: 1/2"-2"
Produces: 5-6 lb. white skinned round melons with light green flesh.
Hardiness Zone: 4-11
Ease of Growing: Moderate
Grown as: Annual
Days to Maturity: 110 days
Growing Habit: Vine
Hardiness: Very Tender. Melons can't tolerate cold weather.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Summer
Growing Season: Long
Growing Conditions: Warm, Hot, Long days. Melons must have hot (ideally 90° F) sunny weather if they are to make the sugar needed to produce sweet fruits. In cooler areas you need to give them as much sun and heat as possible. They should also be sheltered from cool winds. I must emphasize that if Melons don't get enough heat they won't taste very good (even if they successfully produce fruit.)
Outdoor Growing Temp: 65°F - 95°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 70°F. Melons need warm weather, so don’t plant them until all danger of frost is past and the soil temperature is at least 70˚ F.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Warm, Hot). Melon is a desert plant and needs full sun.
Water: Moderate. Melons need to produce a lot of leaves to make enough sugar to produce sweet fruit. To do this they need a constant supply of water. The best way to water them is with a drip system or soaker hose, as they don't like having wet leaves (this encourages fungus disease).
Feeder: Heavy. Not surprisingly for such a large and vigorous plant, melons are fairly hungry feeders. Melons don't need a lot of nitrogen as it encourages leaf growth at the expense of fruit. They do like phosphorus (give them colloidal phosphate) and potassium (wood ashes), as well as boron and magnesium.
Suitability: High heat, Needs lots of space
Small Gardens?: Yes
Containers?: Yes, but will need a large one, like a half wine barrel. Most melons are too big to comfortably grow in containers, but a few of the smaller cultivars will work if the container is big enough (at least 18" wide and deep and preferably bigger). This is sometimes done in cool climates, where the plants are grown in greenhouses. When growing such large plants in containers you have to be particularly attentive to watering. You will probably need to support them too.
Attracts beneficial insects?: No
Forage: Rabbits.
Plant Height: 6-12"
Spacing: 5-6'
Sow Depth: 1/2"-2"
Produces: 5-6 lb. white skinned round melons with light green flesh.
Hardiness Zone: 4-11
Soil Preparation
Lime (Calcium), 5 pounds per 100 sq. ft., in top 6in of soil, 1 time: Melons dislike acidic soil, so lime the soil if necessary (preferably dolomitic lime as this also adds magnesium). The quantity required will vary according to the pH, but 5 pounds per 100 square feet would be a typical application.
Compost (N), 4 cups per plant, before transplanting, 1 time: Incorporate 1 quart of compost or aged manure (melons love old manure) into the planting hole.
Standard Mix, 1 cup per plant, before transplanting, 1 time: Standard mix will supply additional phosphorus, potassium, magnesium and other nutrients. Incorporate it into the planting hole, along with the compost. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Compost (N), 4 cups per plant, before transplanting, 1 time: Incorporate 1 quart of compost or aged manure (melons love old manure) into the planting hole.
Standard Mix, 1 cup per plant, before transplanting, 1 time: Standard mix will supply additional phosphorus, potassium, magnesium and other nutrients. Incorporate it into the planting hole, along with the compost. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
- 4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
- 2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
- 2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
- 1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
- 1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Start Indoors
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 2.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cool soil, and 2" deep in warm soil.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 100°F, optimal 70°F to 95°F, optimal 95°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 10 to 12 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: on last frost date. Start them indoors and warm the soil with black plastic or cloches before planting. Like most Cucurbits they dislike root disturbance, so should be started in cell packs, soil blocks or individual 4" pots (best).
1. Plant 2 seeds to a 4" pot.
2. Thin to the best one after both have emerged.
Don’t start your Melons too early, as you don’t want them to get rootbound. If it is too cold to put them out when they are ready, you will have to move them into larger pots.
Harden Off: on last frost date. Allow plants to adapt to their new outdoor temperatures. Place outside for a longer amount of time each day to harden off for at least a week before transplanting.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 100°F, optimal 70°F to 95°F, optimal 95°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 10 to 12 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: on last frost date. Start them indoors and warm the soil with black plastic or cloches before planting. Like most Cucurbits they dislike root disturbance, so should be started in cell packs, soil blocks or individual 4" pots (best).
1. Plant 2 seeds to a 4" pot.
2. Thin to the best one after both have emerged.
Don’t start your Melons too early, as you don’t want them to get rootbound. If it is too cold to put them out when they are ready, you will have to move them into larger pots.
Harden Off: on last frost date. Allow plants to adapt to their new outdoor temperatures. Place outside for a longer amount of time each day to harden off for at least a week before transplanting.
Transplant Outdoors
3-4 weeks after last frost date: The seedlings will be ready to plant out 3 to 4 weeks after sowing, when they have at least 3 or 4 true leaves.
1. Plant out the seedlings up to their first true leaves and water immediately.
2. When they have recovered from transplanting, give them a liquid feed to give the a boost.
Warm, Hot: Melons must have hot (ideally 90°F) sunny weather if they are to make the sugar needed to produce sweet fruits. In cooler areas you need to give them as much sun and heat as possible. They should also be sheltered from cool winds. I must emphasize that if Melons don't get enough heat they won't taste very good (even if they successfully produce fruit.)
When outdoor temp: 65°F to 95°F, optimal temp 80°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 70°F. Melons need warm weather, so don’t plant them until all danger of frost is past and the soil temperature is at least 70˚ F.
Spacing: 36.0"-60.0", (3 per 4'x4') plants per sq ft.
Intensive Beds: Intensive gardeners plant Melons 15, 18, or 24" apart, depending upon the soil and the size of the variety. They are usually planted in rows to facilitate supporting them and grown upwards so they take up less space.
Hills: Space the hills 3 to 5 feet apart, with 3 plants to a hill. Melons are often planted in hills, slightly elevated above the surrounding soil. This helps the soil to warm up faster and provides better drainage (melons rot easily in wet soil). Plant the seeds on edge, sowing 5 to 6 seeds on each mound. When these are growing well, pinch out the inferior seedlings, to leave the best 3 plants to grow on.
Rows: Space the plants 18 to 24" apart, in rows 72" apart.
Support: Yes. The plants can be trained up trellises to save space, just as you would Cucumbers. However the fruits are heavier than cucumbers and will need support (slings made from old panty-hose work well.) If a fruit is growing on the ground you can insert a tin can, plant pot, tile or stone underneath it, to keep it off the soil.
1. Plant out the seedlings up to their first true leaves and water immediately.
2. When they have recovered from transplanting, give them a liquid feed to give the a boost.
Warm, Hot: Melons must have hot (ideally 90°F) sunny weather if they are to make the sugar needed to produce sweet fruits. In cooler areas you need to give them as much sun and heat as possible. They should also be sheltered from cool winds. I must emphasize that if Melons don't get enough heat they won't taste very good (even if they successfully produce fruit.)
When outdoor temp: 65°F to 95°F, optimal temp 80°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 70°F. Melons need warm weather, so don’t plant them until all danger of frost is past and the soil temperature is at least 70˚ F.
Spacing: 36.0"-60.0", (3 per 4'x4') plants per sq ft.
Intensive Beds: Intensive gardeners plant Melons 15, 18, or 24" apart, depending upon the soil and the size of the variety. They are usually planted in rows to facilitate supporting them and grown upwards so they take up less space.
Hills: Space the hills 3 to 5 feet apart, with 3 plants to a hill. Melons are often planted in hills, slightly elevated above the surrounding soil. This helps the soil to warm up faster and provides better drainage (melons rot easily in wet soil). Plant the seeds on edge, sowing 5 to 6 seeds on each mound. When these are growing well, pinch out the inferior seedlings, to leave the best 3 plants to grow on.
Rows: Space the plants 18 to 24" apart, in rows 72" apart.
Support: Yes. The plants can be trained up trellises to save space, just as you would Cucumbers. However the fruits are heavier than cucumbers and will need support (slings made from old panty-hose work well.) If a fruit is growing on the ground you can insert a tin can, plant pot, tile or stone underneath it, to keep it off the soil.
Start Outdoors
When Warm, Hot: Melons must have hot weather (ideally 90 F) if they are to make the sugar needed to produce sweet fruits. In cooler areas you need to give them as much sun and heat as possible. They should also be sheltered from cool winds. If Melons don't get enough heat they won't taste very good (even if you do grow them successfully.)
When outdoor temp: 65°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 70°F. Melons need warm weather, so don’t plant them until all danger of frost is past and the soil temperature is at least 70˚ F.
Seed Depth: 0.5"-2.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cool soil and 2" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 36"-60", (3 per 4'x4') plants per sq ft.
Intensive Beds: Intensive gardeners plant Melons 15 to 18 to 24” apart, depending upon the soil and variety. They are usually planted in rows to facilitate supporting them. If they grow upwards they take up a lot less space.
Hills: Space the hills 3 to 5 feet apart, with 3 plants to a hill. Melons are often planted in hills, slightly elevated above the surrounding soil. This helps the soil to warm up faster and provides better drainage (melons rot easily in wet soil). Plant the seeds on edge, sowing 5 to 6 seeds on each mound. When these are growing well, pinch out the inferior seedlings, to leave the best 3 plants to grow on.
Rows: Space the plants 18 to 24 apart, in rows 72” apart.
Summer Crop: 3-4 weeks after last frost date. If your growing season is long and hot enough, you may want to direct sow your Melons. They will germinate and grow rapidly in warm (75˚ F) soil.
In moist climates melons are often grown on hills from 3"-12" high, as this helps the soil to warm up faster and provides better drainage (melons rot easily in wet soil). To make a hill remove 2 spadesful of soil, dump in 2 spadesful of compost or aged manure), then replace the soil. Mix it all together and shape it into a low mound.
In dry climates they are planted in slight depressions (remove 2" of soil and use it to make a water retaining rim) to conserve moisture. When sowing in hills or basins you can sow 6 seeds in a circle 1" deep and 4" apart. Plant the seeds on edge, ½˝ to 1˝deep. When all the seeds have germinated you should thin to the best 2 or 3. You might want to pre-soak the seeds overnight before planting, especially if you are sowing directly outside.
Support: Yes. The plants can be trained up trellises to save space, just as you would Cucumbers. However the fruits are heavier than cucumbers and will need support (slings made from old panty-hose work well.). If a fruit is growing on the ground you can insert a tin can, plant pot, tile or stone underneath it, to keep it off the soil.
When outdoor temp: 65°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 70°F. Melons need warm weather, so don’t plant them until all danger of frost is past and the soil temperature is at least 70˚ F.
Seed Depth: 0.5"-2.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cool soil and 2" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 36"-60", (3 per 4'x4') plants per sq ft.
Intensive Beds: Intensive gardeners plant Melons 15 to 18 to 24” apart, depending upon the soil and variety. They are usually planted in rows to facilitate supporting them. If they grow upwards they take up a lot less space.
Hills: Space the hills 3 to 5 feet apart, with 3 plants to a hill. Melons are often planted in hills, slightly elevated above the surrounding soil. This helps the soil to warm up faster and provides better drainage (melons rot easily in wet soil). Plant the seeds on edge, sowing 5 to 6 seeds on each mound. When these are growing well, pinch out the inferior seedlings, to leave the best 3 plants to grow on.
Rows: Space the plants 18 to 24 apart, in rows 72” apart.
Summer Crop: 3-4 weeks after last frost date. If your growing season is long and hot enough, you may want to direct sow your Melons. They will germinate and grow rapidly in warm (75˚ F) soil.
In moist climates melons are often grown on hills from 3"-12" high, as this helps the soil to warm up faster and provides better drainage (melons rot easily in wet soil). To make a hill remove 2 spadesful of soil, dump in 2 spadesful of compost or aged manure), then replace the soil. Mix it all together and shape it into a low mound.
In dry climates they are planted in slight depressions (remove 2" of soil and use it to make a water retaining rim) to conserve moisture. When sowing in hills or basins you can sow 6 seeds in a circle 1" deep and 4" apart. Plant the seeds on edge, ½˝ to 1˝deep. When all the seeds have germinated you should thin to the best 2 or 3. You might want to pre-soak the seeds overnight before planting, especially if you are sowing directly outside.
Support: Yes. The plants can be trained up trellises to save space, just as you would Cucumbers. However the fruits are heavier than cucumbers and will need support (slings made from old panty-hose work well.). If a fruit is growing on the ground you can insert a tin can, plant pot, tile or stone underneath it, to keep it off the soil.
Melons aren't particularly hard to grow if they have everything they need (heat, water, fertile soil). They are susceptible to quite a few diseases though.
Water Needs: Moderate. Melons are quite shallow rooted, so need fairly constant water. The best way to water them is with a drip system or soaker hose, as they don't like having wet leaves (this encourages fungus disease).
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Melons are fairly hungry plants. They don't like a lot of nitrogen, but they do need plenty of phosphorus and potassium.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 gallon(s) per plant, regularly, 2 times a week. Melons are quite shallow rooted so they need a constant and even supply of water. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist but never soggy for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Thinning, after sowing: 18" apart, after sowing, 1 time. When all of the seeds have germinated, thin the plants to their final spacing.
Side Dressing, after sowing: Mulch, 2", after sowing, 1 time. Mulch helps to conserve moisture in the soil in hot weather. Don’t apply it until the soil has warmed up however.
Pruning, before flowering: before flowering, 2 times. The seedlings should be pinched back twice, so they produce four growing tips. These are then allowed to grow and flower.
Side Dressing, at early fruit set: Compost tea, 2 cup(s) per plant, at early fruit set, 1 time. When the flowers start to set fruit, you should give the plants a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp. Side dressing should be done cautiously with melons, as too much nitrogen may merely encourage foliage growth at the expense of fruiting.
Thinning, during fruit production: during fruit production, 1 time. Growers often allow one fruit to develop on each branch and then pinch off any others that form. The fewer fruit you allow to develop, the bigger they will all be.
Watering, during fruit production: Water, 1 gallon(s), during fruit production, 2 times a week This is most critical when the fruits are sizing up and they should get all the water they can use at this time (in very hot weather this could be as much as 2 gallons a day). Ideally this should be lukewarm so it doesn’t cool the soil. When the fruits have reached full size you should ease up on watering, otherwise the fruit may split. The best way to water Melons is with a drip system, as they don’t like having wet leaves (this encourages fungus disease).
Side Dressing, during fruit production: Compost tea, 4 cup(s) per plant, during fruit production, every 3 weeks. If the soil isn't very fertile feed the plants regularly with compost tea after the first fruits set. Side dressing should be done cautiously with melons, as too much nitrogen may merely encourage vegetative growth at the expense of fruiting.
Support: Yes. The plants can be trained up trellises to save space, just as you would Cucumbers. However the fruits are heavier than cucumbers and will need support (slings made from old panty-hose work well.). If a fruit is growing on the ground you can insert a tin can, plant pot, tile or stone underneath it, to keep it off the soil.
Water Needs: Moderate. Melons are quite shallow rooted, so need fairly constant water. The best way to water them is with a drip system or soaker hose, as they don't like having wet leaves (this encourages fungus disease).
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Melons are fairly hungry plants. They don't like a lot of nitrogen, but they do need plenty of phosphorus and potassium.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 gallon(s) per plant, regularly, 2 times a week. Melons are quite shallow rooted so they need a constant and even supply of water. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist but never soggy for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Thinning, after sowing: 18" apart, after sowing, 1 time. When all of the seeds have germinated, thin the plants to their final spacing.
Side Dressing, after sowing: Mulch, 2", after sowing, 1 time. Mulch helps to conserve moisture in the soil in hot weather. Don’t apply it until the soil has warmed up however.
Pruning, before flowering: before flowering, 2 times. The seedlings should be pinched back twice, so they produce four growing tips. These are then allowed to grow and flower.
Side Dressing, at early fruit set: Compost tea, 2 cup(s) per plant, at early fruit set, 1 time. When the flowers start to set fruit, you should give the plants a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp. Side dressing should be done cautiously with melons, as too much nitrogen may merely encourage foliage growth at the expense of fruiting.
Thinning, during fruit production: during fruit production, 1 time. Growers often allow one fruit to develop on each branch and then pinch off any others that form. The fewer fruit you allow to develop, the bigger they will all be.
Watering, during fruit production: Water, 1 gallon(s), during fruit production, 2 times a week This is most critical when the fruits are sizing up and they should get all the water they can use at this time (in very hot weather this could be as much as 2 gallons a day). Ideally this should be lukewarm so it doesn’t cool the soil. When the fruits have reached full size you should ease up on watering, otherwise the fruit may split. The best way to water Melons is with a drip system, as they don’t like having wet leaves (this encourages fungus disease).
Side Dressing, during fruit production: Compost tea, 4 cup(s) per plant, during fruit production, every 3 weeks. If the soil isn't very fertile feed the plants regularly with compost tea after the first fruits set. Side dressing should be done cautiously with melons, as too much nitrogen may merely encourage vegetative growth at the expense of fruiting.
Support: Yes. The plants can be trained up trellises to save space, just as you would Cucumbers. However the fruits are heavier than cucumbers and will need support (slings made from old panty-hose work well.). If a fruit is growing on the ground you can insert a tin can, plant pot, tile or stone underneath it, to keep it off the soil.
Harvesting
Ripening:
When a Melon is ripe: It develops a very strong aroma. The blossom end gets soft. Most varieties develop cracks around the stem. Gently roll the fruit in your hand, if it separates from the vine it is ready. The tendril closest to the fruit usually shrivels up. The spot where the melon was resting on the ground will turn from white to yellow.
When and How: Whole Fruit, 1-56 days after maturity.
When: The first fruits will be ready to harvest in mid to late summer, about 35 to 45 days after pollination. The key to great Melons is to pick them at the peak of ripeness, so don’t pick a melon before its time (or after it). There are several ways to tell when a melon is ripe, though not all of these indicators may be present at the same time.
How: It is best to cut the fruit from the vine, leaving a couple of inches of stem attached. Handle the fruit carefully once it is harvested, as it will bruise very easily.
Harvest melons when the tendril closest to the stem turns dry and brown and the stem becomes brittle.
When a Melon is ripe: It develops a very strong aroma. The blossom end gets soft. Most varieties develop cracks around the stem. Gently roll the fruit in your hand, if it separates from the vine it is ready. The tendril closest to the fruit usually shrivels up. The spot where the melon was resting on the ground will turn from white to yellow.
When and How: Whole Fruit, 1-56 days after maturity.
When: The first fruits will be ready to harvest in mid to late summer, about 35 to 45 days after pollination. The key to great Melons is to pick them at the peak of ripeness, so don’t pick a melon before its time (or after it). There are several ways to tell when a melon is ripe, though not all of these indicators may be present at the same time.
How: It is best to cut the fruit from the vine, leaving a couple of inches of stem attached. Handle the fruit carefully once it is harvested, as it will bruise very easily.
Harvest melons when the tendril closest to the stem turns dry and brown and the stem becomes brittle.
Storage
Melons can be stored in a fridge for a couple of weeks, but their flavor will slowly deteriorate (they are best eaten immediately).
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-14 days
The fruit should be treated like Tomatoes and kept at room temperature. Ideally they should be eaten as soon as possible, as they will only deteriorate over time.
Storage Req:
Storage Temp: 55-65°F
Storage Length: 1-2 days
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-14 days
The fruit should be treated like Tomatoes and kept at room temperature. Ideally they should be eaten as soon as possible, as they will only deteriorate over time.
Storage Req:
Storage Temp: 55-65°F
Storage Length: 1-2 days
Melons are cross pollinated by insects so you can either grow only one variety at a time, isolate by a 1/2 mile, cage them or hand pollinate.
Hand pollinating Melons isn't difficult, though the flowers are smaller than other Cucurbits. The flowers are most receptive to pollination before any fruit start growing. Once there are fruit maturing on the plant they become less inclined to produce more by pollinating successfully.
You need to prepare to pollinate the flowers the night before, by finding some male and female flowers (the female has a tiny "melon" behind the flower) that are about to open the following day. Tape them shut with a little piece of masking tape (don't tape it too well or it will be hard to remove without damaging the flower). This prevents them from opening and being pollinated before you get to them.
The next day pick a male flower and remove its tape and petals. Then carefully open a female flower (from a different plant), being very careful to not damage the petals. Insert the male flower into a female flower and brush the pollen from the anthers on to stigma. Finally tape the female flower closed again. The petals will soon fall off and if pollination was successful the tiny fruit will begin to grow.
If you are adventurous, you could collect the seed from any ripe fruit as you eat it (so long as it isn't an F1 hybrid) and see what grows. In the case of Melons, I would avoid hybrids for this reason, it seems a shame not to be able to use some of those seeds.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-4 years
Germination Percentage: 80%
Hand pollinating Melons isn't difficult, though the flowers are smaller than other Cucurbits. The flowers are most receptive to pollination before any fruit start growing. Once there are fruit maturing on the plant they become less inclined to produce more by pollinating successfully.
You need to prepare to pollinate the flowers the night before, by finding some male and female flowers (the female has a tiny "melon" behind the flower) that are about to open the following day. Tape them shut with a little piece of masking tape (don't tape it too well or it will be hard to remove without damaging the flower). This prevents them from opening and being pollinated before you get to them.
The next day pick a male flower and remove its tape and petals. Then carefully open a female flower (from a different plant), being very careful to not damage the petals. Insert the male flower into a female flower and brush the pollen from the anthers on to stigma. Finally tape the female flower closed again. The petals will soon fall off and if pollination was successful the tiny fruit will begin to grow.
If you are adventurous, you could collect the seed from any ripe fruit as you eat it (so long as it isn't an F1 hybrid) and see what grows. In the case of Melons, I would avoid hybrids for this reason, it seems a shame not to be able to use some of those seeds.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-4 years
Germination Percentage: 80%
Culinary
Taste:
Smooth and sweet with a classic Honeydew flavor.
Culinary Use:
There's a hard outer skin that must be removed as well as seeds. This is most easily done once the melon has been sliced open. Melons are best eaten as soon as they are cut open. Honeydew can be eaten alone, mixed with yogurt, or made into a fruit freeze, sorbet, smoothie or in addition to a smoked chicken salad. Casaba can also be used in yogurt or a fruit salad, or get creative and make fruit kabobs, melon salsa, or a melon mousse!
Fruit: raw. Said to be the finest-tasting of the melons, cantaloupes have a very watery flesh but with a delicate sweet flavor. They are very refreshing, especially in hot weather. Rich in vitamins B and C. The flesh of the fruit can be dried, ground into a powder and used with cereals when making bread, biscuits etc.
Seed: raw. Rich in oil with a nutty flavor but very fiddly to use because the seed is small and covered with a fibrous coat. The seed contains between 12.5 - 39.1% oil. An edible oil is obtained from the seed.
Smooth and sweet with a classic Honeydew flavor.
Culinary Use:
There's a hard outer skin that must be removed as well as seeds. This is most easily done once the melon has been sliced open. Melons are best eaten as soon as they are cut open. Honeydew can be eaten alone, mixed with yogurt, or made into a fruit freeze, sorbet, smoothie or in addition to a smoked chicken salad. Casaba can also be used in yogurt or a fruit salad, or get creative and make fruit kabobs, melon salsa, or a melon mousse!
Fruit: raw. Said to be the finest-tasting of the melons, cantaloupes have a very watery flesh but with a delicate sweet flavor. They are very refreshing, especially in hot weather. Rich in vitamins B and C. The flesh of the fruit can be dried, ground into a powder and used with cereals when making bread, biscuits etc.
Seed: raw. Rich in oil with a nutty flavor but very fiddly to use because the seed is small and covered with a fibrous coat. The seed contains between 12.5 - 39.1% oil. An edible oil is obtained from the seed.
Medicinal
The fruits can be used as a cooling light cleanser or moisturizer for the skin. They are also used as a first aid treatment for burns and abrasions. The flowers are expectorant and emetic. The fruit is stomachic. The seed is antitussive, digestive, febrifuge and vermifuge. When used as a vermifuge, the whole seed complete with the seed coat is ground into a fine flour, then made into an emulsion with water and eaten. It is then necessary to take a purge in order to expel the tapeworms or other parasites from the body. The root is diuretic and emetic.
Project Purity Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting
Companions: Corn, pumpkin, radish and squash.
Other suggested helpers for melons are as follows: Marigold deters beetles, nasturtium deters bugs and beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection.
Other suggested helpers for melons are as follows: Marigold deters beetles, nasturtium deters bugs and beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection.
Problems
Potential insect pests include Aphids, Spider Mites, Cucumber Beetle, and Thrips.
Aphids
Beneficial insects such as Ladybugs, Collops Beetle, Soldier Beetles, Long-legged Flies, Hover Flies, Predaceous Midges, Damsel Bugs, Big-eyed Bugs, Minute Pirate Bugs, Lacewings, Parasitic Wasps,
Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.
Ladybeetles, Ladybugs, or Ladybird Beetles: Ladybeetles are probably the most well-known of beetles that eat aphids. There are many species, and both the adults and larvae eat aphids. Convergent lady beetles and the seven-spotted ladybeetles are abundant species in the environment. Eggs are found in clutches, yellow and football shaped. Larvae have an alligator-like appearance, and are black with orange markings. Pupae are sedentary. Ladybeetles are commercially available but purchasing is not generally recommended since the adult stage tends to fly away once released. Introductions may be more effective in greenhouses and high tunnels. Diverse plantings can help recruit resident ladybeetles to an area.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos,
Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus),
Masterwort (Astrantia major), \Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata),
Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata),
Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum),
Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida),
Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea),
Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos,
Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus),
Masterwort (Astrantia major), \Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata),
Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata),
Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum),
Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida),
Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea),
Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
Spider Mites
Beneficial insects such as minute pirate bugs, big-eyed bugs, and lacewing larvae all prey on Spidermites.
Minute Pirate Bugs: Preys on spider mites, cabbage looper, insect eggs, caterpillars, aphids, thrips
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Preys on Aphids, small Caterpillars and Caterpillar eggs, Flea beetles, Fleahoppers, Lygus bugs, Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies.
To attract Big-Eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Preys on Aphids, small Caterpillars and Caterpillar eggs, Flea beetles, Fleahoppers, Lygus bugs, Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies.
To attract Big-Eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Cucumber Beetles
Beneficial insects such as Braconid Wasps, Ground Beetles, Soldier Beetles, Spiders, and Tachinid flies all prey on Cucumber Beetles.
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Thrips
Beneficial insects such as Big-eyed Bugs, Hoverflies, and Minute Pirate Bugs all prey on Thrips.
Big-eyed Bugs: Prey on Aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies.
To attract Big-eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Hoverflies: Preys on Aphids, Scale insects, Caterpillars, and Thrips.
To attract Hoverflies to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Prey on Spider Mites, Cabbage Looper, Insect Eggs, Caterpillars, Aphids, and Thrips.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Plants that attract Minute Pirate Bugs are: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
To attract Big-eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Hoverflies: Preys on Aphids, Scale insects, Caterpillars, and Thrips.
To attract Hoverflies to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Prey on Spider Mites, Cabbage Looper, Insect Eggs, Caterpillars, Aphids, and Thrips.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Plants that attract Minute Pirate Bugs are: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Nutrition
The fruits contain Vitamin C, betacarotene, potassium, pectin and several beneficial phytochemicals, including lycopene and zeaxanthin.
The Health Benefits of Cantaloupe
Improves Vision: Vitamin C, zeaxanthin, and carotenoids present in cantaloupes are beneficial for maintaining healthy eyes. They are associated with a reduced risk of cataracts and macular degeneration.
Prevents Asthma: Cantaloupe is a rich source of vitamin C and beta-carotene. These nutrients are very helpful in lowering the risk of asthma.
Prevents Cancer: Cantaloupe aids in the prevention of cancer and the eradication of free radicals, the harmful by-products of cell metabolism that lead to a number of dangerous conditions. Cantaloupe is a rich source of beta-carotene, an essential carotenoid that the body requires. It works as an antioxidant and lowers the risk of different types of cancers, and the phytochemicals present in fresh fruits like cantaloupes have also been linked to anti-tumor behavior.
Boosts Immunity: Cantaloupe provides vitamin C, vitamin A, beta-carotene, and phytochemicals that work against free radicals. Vitamin C scavenges disease-causing free radicals and acts as an important line of defense for a healthy immune system. It also stimulates the production of white blood cells, which seek out and destroy dangerous bacteria, viruses, and other toxic substances or foreign bodies that may have found their way into our bloodstream.
Reduces Dehydration: The water content in cantaloupe makes it a great snack in summer as it prevents dehydration. This is a major reason why muskmelons are included as a snack food in summer picnics.
Skin & Hair Care: Cantaloupes contain dietary beta-carotene that ensures no overdose or vitamin A toxicity because the body only converts as much as it needs, unlike supplements; the rest remains as beta-carotene to fight diseases as antioxidants. The amount that turns into vitamin A enters the skin and stimulates the membrane of skin cells and increases growth and repair. This protects the skin membrane against harmful toxins that prematurely age the skin. Vitamin A cream is also used as a salve for irritation and redness on the skin, due to its naturally soothing qualities. Vitamin A is also good for sebum production, which helps keep the hair healthy and moisturized.
Regulates Blood Pressure: Potassium, one of the essential nutrients found in cantaloupes, is a vasodilator, which means it relaxes the blood vessels and reduces blood pressure. Elevated levels of blood pressure can act as a stressor on the body and can even induce the release of stress hormones like cortisol. Potassium increases the flow of blood and oxygen to the brain, which induces a calming sensation. Plus, reducing the presence of stress hormones in the body can reduce symptoms of anxiety.
Controls Diabetes: Early research shows that cantaloupe is connected with improved insulin metabolism, which means a more stable fluctuation of blood sugar, preventing the dangerous spikes and plunges of blood sugar that all diabetics fear. It has also been shown to reduce oxidative stress on kidneys, which can further prevent a number of kidney-related diseases.
Treats Arthritis: The phytochemicals in cantaloupes have anti-inflammatory qualities. This means that having a cantaloupe in your diet can help prevent oxidative stress on your joints and bones, thereby reducing inflammation. Chronic inflammation of these vital areas can lead to conditions like arthritis, so make sure to add plenty of cantaloupes to your diet if you’re feeling creaky around the joints!
Promotes Digestion: Cantaloupes have a high amount of dietary fiber, which is an essential component of healthy bowel movements and digestive health. Eating a proper amount of dietary fiber can bulk up your stool, reduce constipation, and make your bowel movements regular. By ensuring a smooth flow through your digestive tract and colon, you can reduce your risk of colorectal cancer and other dangerous gastrointestinal conditions.
Aids in Pregnancy: The folate content in cantaloupe is very helpful for pregnant women as it helps reduce birth defects. It can prevent neural tube defects and keep the baby healthy without delivering any side effects.
Prevents Asthma: Cantaloupe is a rich source of vitamin C and beta-carotene. These nutrients are very helpful in lowering the risk of asthma.
Prevents Cancer: Cantaloupe aids in the prevention of cancer and the eradication of free radicals, the harmful by-products of cell metabolism that lead to a number of dangerous conditions. Cantaloupe is a rich source of beta-carotene, an essential carotenoid that the body requires. It works as an antioxidant and lowers the risk of different types of cancers, and the phytochemicals present in fresh fruits like cantaloupes have also been linked to anti-tumor behavior.
Boosts Immunity: Cantaloupe provides vitamin C, vitamin A, beta-carotene, and phytochemicals that work against free radicals. Vitamin C scavenges disease-causing free radicals and acts as an important line of defense for a healthy immune system. It also stimulates the production of white blood cells, which seek out and destroy dangerous bacteria, viruses, and other toxic substances or foreign bodies that may have found their way into our bloodstream.
Reduces Dehydration: The water content in cantaloupe makes it a great snack in summer as it prevents dehydration. This is a major reason why muskmelons are included as a snack food in summer picnics.
Skin & Hair Care: Cantaloupes contain dietary beta-carotene that ensures no overdose or vitamin A toxicity because the body only converts as much as it needs, unlike supplements; the rest remains as beta-carotene to fight diseases as antioxidants. The amount that turns into vitamin A enters the skin and stimulates the membrane of skin cells and increases growth and repair. This protects the skin membrane against harmful toxins that prematurely age the skin. Vitamin A cream is also used as a salve for irritation and redness on the skin, due to its naturally soothing qualities. Vitamin A is also good for sebum production, which helps keep the hair healthy and moisturized.
Regulates Blood Pressure: Potassium, one of the essential nutrients found in cantaloupes, is a vasodilator, which means it relaxes the blood vessels and reduces blood pressure. Elevated levels of blood pressure can act as a stressor on the body and can even induce the release of stress hormones like cortisol. Potassium increases the flow of blood and oxygen to the brain, which induces a calming sensation. Plus, reducing the presence of stress hormones in the body can reduce symptoms of anxiety.
Controls Diabetes: Early research shows that cantaloupe is connected with improved insulin metabolism, which means a more stable fluctuation of blood sugar, preventing the dangerous spikes and plunges of blood sugar that all diabetics fear. It has also been shown to reduce oxidative stress on kidneys, which can further prevent a number of kidney-related diseases.
Treats Arthritis: The phytochemicals in cantaloupes have anti-inflammatory qualities. This means that having a cantaloupe in your diet can help prevent oxidative stress on your joints and bones, thereby reducing inflammation. Chronic inflammation of these vital areas can lead to conditions like arthritis, so make sure to add plenty of cantaloupes to your diet if you’re feeling creaky around the joints!
Promotes Digestion: Cantaloupes have a high amount of dietary fiber, which is an essential component of healthy bowel movements and digestive health. Eating a proper amount of dietary fiber can bulk up your stool, reduce constipation, and make your bowel movements regular. By ensuring a smooth flow through your digestive tract and colon, you can reduce your risk of colorectal cancer and other dangerous gastrointestinal conditions.
Aids in Pregnancy: The folate content in cantaloupe is very helpful for pregnant women as it helps reduce birth defects. It can prevent neural tube defects and keep the baby healthy without delivering any side effects.
Suggested Varieties
Amaranth: Love Lies Bleeding (Heirloom) (Amaranthus caudatus)
$1.00 - $5.60
As a decorative flower, Love-Lies-Bleeding grew in many Victorian English gardens; in the language of flowers, it represents hopeless love. In addition to producing lovely flowers, Love-Lies-Bleeding is a form of the grain-producing plant known as amaranth. A staple grain for the Aztecs and Incas, amaranth was referred to as the "golden grain of the gods" and used in religious rituals. The plant nearly died out when the Spanish Conquistadors declared their religious practices barbaric, and made growing amaranth a capital offense. Today, both the leaves and the seeds of amaranth are an important food source in many parts of the world. This unique grain provides an impressive amount of vitamins and minerals, as well as being very rich in protein.
Amaranth: Perfecta (Heirloom) (Amaranthus Tricolor 'Perfecta')
$1.00 - $5.60
This fast-growing, heat-loving plant originated in tropical Asia, where it is widely cultivated as a leaf vegetable. It bears large, elliptic or oval leaves on erect stems. The brightly hued new leaves fade gradually to medium green with deep maroon markings. This cultivar is spectacular from summer to frost. Insignificant clusters of green or reddish flowers appear at the stem tips and in the leaf axils in summer. Small capsules containing a single brown or black seed follow the flowers.
Amaranth: Red Garnet (Heirloom) (Amaranthus tricolor)
$1.00 - $5.60
Amaranth had a sacred status in the ancient civilizations of the Aztecs and Incas, since the grain was used in various religious rituals. It remains a staple food in modern Mexico and some parts of Asia, being prepared in numerous dishes from sweet to savory. One traditional Mexican treat known as "alegria" is made with amaranth grain and honey or molasses. A super grain, amaranth can be used for gluten free flour; it also makes a complete protein when mixed with another grain. In addition, amaranth greens have a higher iron content than any other green vegetable except parsley, as well as containing many valuable vitamins and minerals.
Balm: Lemon (Melissa officinalis)
$1.00 - $5.60
Lemon balm was most likely introduced to Spain by the Moors in the 7th century; by the Middle Ages, it was common throughout Europe. Its Latin name, Melissa, means “bee” in Greek and refers to the plant's tendency to attract bees; first century Roman naturalist Pliny the Elder recommended that lemon balm be cultivated near bee hives to prevent the bees from straying. A member of the mint family, lemon balm dates back over 2,000 years for use as a medicinal herb primarily to treat stress and anxiety, insomnia, and indigestion. Eleventh century Persian physician and philosopher Avicenna wrote of the benefits of lemon balm in treating low spirits or melancholy. According to an old Arabian proverb, “Balm makes the heart merry and joyful.” According to historical record, both King Charles V of France and Emperor Charles V drank lemon balm beverages to improve their health; lemon balm was also one of the plants grown in Thomas Jefferson’s famous experimental garden. Today, herbal treatments containing lemon balm often include other calming herbs such as valerian, chamomile, and hops to encourage relaxation.
Bergamot: Wild (Monarda fistulosa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Butterfly attracting premier! Bursting with lavender heads of flowers, this popular perennial wildflower puts on a beautiful show! Medium to tall in height, this plant looks great planted en masse, or with other meadow dwellers. Its sweetly aromatic foliage makes it even more desirable. A classic!
Cabbage: Early Jersey Wakefield (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
$1.00 - $5.60
The first Early Jersey Wakefield cabbages were raised in 1840 by a man named Francis Brill of Jersey City, New Jersey. Thirty years later, seed companies all over the region offered this seed for sale; growers appreciated its early harvest and small, tender heads.
English Marigold (Calendula officinalis)
$1.00 - $5.60
This old-fashioned flower has a long history as both an ornamental garden plant and as an herb. When dried, the petals of Calendula flowers provide a culinary substitute for saffron; in times past, they were used to give a rich color to cheese or butter. Medicinal uses included treatments for measles and smallpox, as well as for dressing wounds on the battlefield. As well as being the traditional flower for October birthdays, calendula symbolizes sorrow and sympathy.
Caraway (Carum carvi)
$1.00 - $5.60
Possibly one of the oldest herbs, evidence of caraway has been found in the Neolithic ruins of Europe as well as in ancient Egypt. Medieval medicine recommended the use of caraway for the improvement of digestion as well as for infant colic; William Shakespeare himself made reference to the culinary use of this herb in his play Henry IV, when Falstaff is invited to "take a pippin and a dish of caraways." The flavor of caraway became extremely popular in Tudor England, especially cooked with fruit or for cakes and bread. Caraway has a well known role in the cuisine of Germany, Scandanavia, northern Africa, and various eastern European countries.
Carrots: Chantenay Red Cored (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
Introduced from France in the late 1800s. Blocky, broad-shouldered variety with blunt tip, about 5-1/2" long and 2-1/2" at the shoulder. Deep orange interior. Adaptable to clay and a wide range of soils. A versatile, good winter keeper that is quite tasty, raw or cooked. Stores well in the ground. Becomes sweeter in storage.
Carrots: Cosmic Purple (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The first mention of red, white, and purple carrots can be found in the records of both Afghanistan and Egypt. Yellow carrots, on the other hand, date back to Turkish records from the 900's. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California.
Carrots: Danvers (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The origin of carrots is somewhat obscure, but early records from many civilizations refer to this colorful root. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California. Danvers carrots in particular come from Danvers, Massachusetts, where the Eastern States Farmers Exchange introduced them in 1947.
Carrots: Rainbow Blend (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
Sold out
Festive Color and Flavor Mix of Purple, Yellow, Red and White Carrots is sure to delight—each with their own unique qualities. Purple has smooth skin, coreless orange flesh and is sweet and tasty. Solar Yellow holds its sunny hue inside and out, is crunchy, sweet and juicy. Lunar White is mild and delicious, and Atomic Red has high lycopene levels as well as a crispy texture that is great cooked.
Carrots: Scarlet Nantes (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The origin of carrots is somewhat obscure, but early records from many civilizations refer to this colorful root. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. The 19th century seed specialist Louis de Vilmorin introduced the French varieties of carrot such as Nantes and Chantenay, which both derive their names from their places of origin. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California.
Carrots: Tendersweet (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The origin of carrots is somewhat obscure, but early records from many civilizations refer to this colorful root. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. The Dutch were the among the first to cultivate the orange carrot; legend has it that their intent was to honor William of Orange. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California.
Chives: Garlic (Allium tuberosum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Originating in western China, garlic chives have been used in Asian cuisine for thousands of years. Unlike the traditional tubular leaves of regular chives, garlic chives have flat, narrow blades; some gardeners blanch their garlic chives, causing them to develop a pale yellow color. Traditional pad Thai, Chinese jiaozi, and various Korean dishes such as buchukimchi often contain garlic chives; they also make a popular addition to stir fries, soups, and dishes with eggs or fish. These delicately garlic scented leaves are often used more as a vegetable than an herb, and may also substitute for standard chives. Garlic chives provide abundant vitamins and minerals, including vitamin C, calcium, and iron.
Chives: Onion (Allium schoenoprasum var. album)
$1.00 - $5.60
Chives, the oldest species of edible onion known, has been used in China since about 3000 B.C. The botanical name actually comes from the Greek meaning, "reed-like leek". Chives are now grown all over the world; historical legend states that Marco Polo discovered this herb in China and brought it back to his native land. Medieval gardeners often planted chives around the borders for both decoration and to ward off harmful insects. Traditional medicinal uses, though not as common, included treatment for high cholesterol and poor digestion. Along with parsley, tarragon, and chervil, chives is included in the famous blend of herbs known as "Fines herbes." The onion-like flavor of chives makes them a traditional addition to dishes with cheese, eggs, fish, or potatoes; the flowers make a delicate herbal vinegar, in addition to being a colorful addition to salads.
Clover: Crimson (Trifolium incarnatum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Most commonly known as crimson clover, this wildflower is also called Italian or French clover in reference to it's nativity to Europe. This annual species blooms in a strawberry red, and it's delightful fragrance attracts bees by the score! A non-invasive, annual species of clover, it is often used as a cover-crop. In southern climates, plant it during your off-season, and watch the amazing results of this rich, nitrogen producing plant! The earthworms love it! Also a protein-rich forage crop for cattle and livestock, this gem of a wildflower is indispensable!
Coriander: Leisure (Coriandrum sativum)
$1.00 - $5.60
The coriander plant, whose leaves are known as cilantro, is native to the Mediterranean and Middle Easter countries; it is believed to be one of the earliest spices used by man. Early physicians such as Hippocrates used coriander primarily as an aromatic stimulant or to disguise the taste of unsavory medicines. Nearly every part of this herb has a culinary use; in Thai cuisine, the roots flavor spicy sauces, while the cilantro leaves season and garnish Chinese, Vietnamese, and Mexican dishes. The coriander seed is used in candy, specialty breads, sauces, desserts, and even perfumes. In Tudor England, coriander seeds coated with sugar were known as "comfits" and became a popular treat.
Corn: Country Gentleman-Open Pollinated (Heirloom) (Zea mays)
$1.00 - $5.60
Country Gentleman corn, a heirloom variety, is the most well known variety of shoepeg corn. Named for the similarity of its kernels to wooden pegs used in shoe making, shoepeg corn is characterized by small, irregular white kernels of unsurpassed tenderness and sweetness. The American South has made this type of corn its own, and it is virtually unrecognized in other areas of the United States. Country Gentleman was first offered for sale in 1890 by S. D. Woodruff & Sons.
Corn: Golden Bantam-Open Pollinated (Heirloom) (Zea mays)
$1.00 - $5.60
A Greenfield, Massachusetts native named J. G. Pickett is credited with developing this marvelous variety of corn. Later, seed expert E. L. Coy sent it to Burpee with the note, "you now own the very richest and sweetest corn ever known."
Corn, Popcorn: Shaman's Blue (Hybrid) Open Pollinated (Zea mays)
$1.00 - $5.60
Blue corn originated in the Andes Mountains of Peru, where the native peoples usually ground it into flour for cooking. Indians of Mexico and the southwestern United States also widely used this corn, since its dryness made it an excellent flour corn and gave it good resistance to disease. This exciting blue popcorn receives high marks for both visual and taste appeal. The unique blue/purple kernel pops into mounds of snow white popcorn that will satisfy any popcorn lover with its slightly sweet flavor.
Corn, Popcorn: South American Yellow (Zea mays)
$1.00 - $5.60
According to evidence found by archaeologists on the northern coast of Peru, popcorn was a staple in the ancient civilizations of South America. Popcorn also grew above the border, and it once occupied a space in nearly every American garden. At the beginning of the twentieth century, 52 varieties of popcorn were offered by the seed catalogs of the time. A wise choice for popcorn lovers! This prolific variety bears 2-3, 6-9 inch ears per plant. When popped, the large yellow kernels produce a buttery tasting popcorn.
Corn, Popcorn: Strawberry Red (Zea Mays)
$1.00 - $5.60
Although it's exact origin is unknown, it is believed that Strawberry Red Popcorn was domesticated by the Olmec and the Mayans. Not only is this amazing variety edible, but it is just as decorative. Each plant grows to 5-6' and bares two or so 2-3" strawberry shaped ears that are covered with brilliant burgundy kernels! Your mind will be blown as you watch the red kernels pop into white popcorn with in the blink of eye!
Cosmos: Bright Lights (Cosmos sulphureus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Because of their Mexican heritage, these bright annuals meet high heat and drought conditions with native beauty and vigor. Spanish conquistadors searching for gold discovered these flowers on their journeys through Mexico. Mission gardens often included these flowers, which priests gave the name “cosmos,” the Greek word for a harmonious whole, because of their neatly spaced petals. Cosmos flowers made their way to England with Spanish ambassadors in the late 18th century, and to the United States in the following century.
Cosmos: Candy Stripe (Cosmos bipinnatus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Because of their Mexican heritage, these bright annuals meet high heat and drought conditions with native beauty and vigor. Spanish conquistadors searching for gold discovered these flowers on their journeys through Mexico. Mission gardens often included these flowers, which priests gave the name “cosmos,” the Greek word for a harmonious whole, because of their neatly spaced petals. Cosmos flowers made their way to England with Spanish ambassadors in the late 18th century, and to the United States in the following century.
Cosmos: Radiance (Cosmos bipinnatus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Because of their Mexican heritage, these bright annuals meet high heat and drought conditions with native beauty and vigor. Spanish conquistadors searching for gold discovered these flowers on their journeys through Mexico. Mission gardens often included these flowers, which priests gave the name “cosmos,” the Greek word for a harmonious whole, because of their neatly spaced petals. Cosmos flowers made their way to England with Spanish ambassadors in the late 18th century, and to the United States in the following century.
Dill: Dukat (Anethum graveolens)
$1.00 - $5.60
Historical records suggest that dill has been used for medicinal purposes for over 5,000 years; its primary use was to calm the digestion and treat stomach ailments, hence its name from an old Saxon word meaning "to lull." Ancient Greek tradition suggested covering the head with dill leaves to induce sleep, while many herbal remedies from ages past recommend dill to soothe colicky babies. Traditionally, dill was thought to bring good fortune, protection, and wealth. Though the origin of dill's famous association with the pickle is not known, an 1640 recipe from the cook of England's King Charles I requires dill in its pickled cucumbers. Today, German, Greek, and Scandinavian cuisine most often include dill.
Fennel: Florence (Foeniculum vulgare var. azoricum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Fennel has a rich history in ancient Greece, where it was called "marathon." The Battle of Marathon in 490 BC and the Italian town of the same name both received their names from this plant, which the Grecians regarded as a symbol of victory. Its medicinal properties, which are many, include an ability to suppress the appetite. In 13th century England, people ate fennel seeds during fast days or long sermons to partially satisfy their hunger; this led to the nickname "meeting seeds." A tea made of fennel became a well known treatment for infant colic or digestive disturbances. The seed of the fennel plant is most commonly found in Middle Eastern cuisine, while the bulb-like portion of the plant is popular in Italian and German cuisine. While culinary use is perfectly safe, large doses of fennel should be avoided by expectant mothers.
Marigolds: Naughty Marietta (Tagetes patula)
$1.00 - $5.60
For non-stop bloom until frost, there's nothing better than French marigolds. The single flowers are golden yellow with mahogany streaks, and are very attractive to bees and butterflies. Ideal for planting along borders, or among vegetables to deter pests. Also makes a perfect container plant for pots or window boxes. The deeply divided foliage forms a bushy mound up to 12 inches high.
Marigolds: Sparky Mix French (Tagetes patula)
$1.00 - $5.60
This easy-to-grow French marigold will bloom all season long. Compact mounds up to 12 inches tall will produce vivid bi-color orange and yellow flowers with an unusual form. This unique flower has wider, wavy petals that make these blossoms spectacular when planted en masse. A beautiful choice for containers as well as gardens.
Marigold: White (Tagetes Erecta 'Kilimanjaro')
$1.00 - $5.60
Commonly called African marigold, Aztec marigold, American marigold or big marigold, is native to Mexico and Central America. Big marigold may be the best descriptive name because plants are noted for their large flowerheads. They typically grow from 1-4’ tall and feature huge, mostly double-globular flowers (2-4” diameter) in various shades of yellow, orange, and whitish. This variety is unaffected by high summer heat and generally blooms throughout the summer.
Milkweed: Blood Flower (Asclepias curassavica)
$1.00 - $5.60
In 1753, eminent botanist Carl Linnaeus gave Blood Flower its Latin genus name, Asclepias. Asclepias, the name of the legendary Greek representation of medicine and healing, is especially appropriate since this plant formerly had numerous medicinal uses. At one time, the silk from the seed pods was spun for fabric or used for stuffing pillows; in World War II, school children gathered the silk to provide a cheap filling for soldiers’ life jackets. Commercial attempts to make use of this abundant plant included the manufacture of paper, fabric, lubricant, fuel, and rubber; eventually these became impractical and were abandoned. In the wild, Blood Flower attracts flocks of butterflies and their larvae; butterflies are immune to the plant’s poison, and actually become rather poisonous themselves as protection from predators.
Milkweed: Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Butterfly Weed, one of the most striking of native plants, lights up the prairies with its blazing orange flowers. It thrives in rocky or sandy soil, typically in open fields or along roadsides. One of its common names, pleurisy root, refers to an old remedy for lung ailments that contained this plant. At one time, the silk from this plant’s seed pods was spun for fabric or used for stuffing pillows; in World War II, school children gathered the silk to provide a cheap filling for soldiers’ life jackets. Commercial attempts to make use of this abundant plant included the manufacture of paper, fabric, lubricant, fuel, and rubber; eventually these became impractical and were abandoned. Though this plant is toxic to most animals, butterflies are immune to the plant’s poison and actually become rather poisonous themselves as protection from predators.
Milkweed: Common (Asclepias syriaca)
$1.00 - $5.60
Common milkweed is Nature's mega food market for insects. Over 450 insects are known to feed on some portion of the plant. Numerous insects are attracted to the nectar-laden flowers and it is not at all uncommon to see flies, beetles, ants, bees, wasps, and butterflies on the flowers at the same time. Occasionally hummingbirds will try, unsuccessfully, to extract nectar. Its sap, leaves and flowers also provide food.
Milkweed: Showy (Asclepias speciosa)
$1.00 - $5.60
A popular native wildflower in western North America, Showy Milkweed commonly occurs on rocky slopes, woodland areas, or along roads or streams. John Torrey, a Columbia University botanist, recorded this species for science in 1820 from a specimen found near the Canadian River. At one time, the silk from this plant’s seed pods was spun for fabric or used for stuffing pillows; in World War II, school children gathered the silk to provide a cheap filling for soldiers’ life jackets. Commercial attempts to make use of this abundant plant included the manufacture of paper, fabric, lubricant, fuel, and rubber; eventually these became impractical and were abandoned. Though this plant is toxic to most animals, butterflies are immune to the plant’s poison and actually become rather poisonous themselves as protection from predators.
Milkweed: Swamp (Asclepias incarnata)
$1.00 - $5.60
As the name indicates, these swamp milkweed seeds for sale thrive in swamps and low meadows or along streams. The bright pink flowers attract swarms of bees and butterflies, and have a sweet scent described as similar to vanilla or cinnamon. At one time, the silk from swamp milkweed seed pods was spun for fabric or used for stuffing pillows; in World War II, school children gathered the silk to provide a cheap filling for soldiers' life jackets. Commercial attempts to make use of this abundant plant included the manufacture of paper, fabric, lubricant, fuel, and rubber; eventually these became impractical and were abandoned. Though this plant is toxic to most animals, butterflies are immune to the plant's poison and actually become rather poisonous themselves as protection from predators.
Mint: Pennyroyal (Mentha Pulegium)
$1.00 - $5.60
Pennyroyal, a member of the mint family, is a perennial herb that was once widely used but is not as common today. It has applications as an herbal remedy, culinary uses and as a decorative touch. Growing pennyroyal in the herb or perennial garden will add color with its lavender blooms.
Nasturtiums: Empress of India (Tropaeolum minus)
$1.00 - $5.60
These brilliant crimson flowers are set off by the deep blue-green leaves. This heirloom variety has a dwarf, bushy habit, and will self-sow. Edible blooms and leaves make a lovely garnish and bright addition to salads.
Nasturtiums: Jewel Mix (Tropaeolum minus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Cheery three-inch blooms in a lovely mix of peach, pink, yellow, orange and red bloom all summer on this dwarf nasturtium. Compact growth and bright blooms make this an ideal choice for garden beds or containers. Thrives in poor soil, and does well in cool weather. The flowers and leaves are edible, and will attract hummingbirds and butterflies as well as beneficial insects.
Oregano: Greek (Origanum vulgare hirtum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Greek Oregano grows wild on the sunny hillsides of the Mediterranean, and is often featured in the cuisine of that region. The Latin word for this herb comes from the Greek phrase, "joy of the mountains". According to ancient mythology, the Greek goddess of love gave oregano to man to bring him joy; tradition continues to associate oregano with joy and banishment of sorrow, bringing about the practice of crowning a bride with a wreath of oregano. For centuries, this plant has been used both for culinary and medicinal purposes; the fresh leaves were chewed for the relief of toothache, indigestion, or a lingering cough, and even the flowers were turned into a soft purple dye. In spite of its popularity in Europe, Americans did not fully discover oregano until after World War II, when returning soldiers and immigrants brought with them an enthusiasm for its flavor. Recent scientific research has found that the oil of oregano has significant antibacterial, antioxidant, and antiviral effects, whether used externally or internally.
Oregano: Italian (Origanum vulgare)
$1.00 - $5.60
Italian Oregano is a very popular "pizza herb" widely used in Italian, Greek and Mexican cooking. Leaves can be used fresh or dried and add warm spicy flavor to your favorite recipes! Bright blue-green plants grow 6" tall and up to 24" in diameter. Leaves can be harvested in 85 to 95 days (before flowers appear). Perennial. Drought tolerant.
Parsley: Italian Giant (Heirloom) (Petroselinum crispum var. neapolitanum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Parsley has a long and colorful history, being well known in many cultures. Myths and legends abound concerning this herb, making it the symbol of such widely varying things as death, victory, and life. One colonial superstition connecting parsley with death held such power that many farmers refused to grow this herb at all. Curly leaved parsley is the most well known and commonly available herb; it contains vitamins A and C as well as other valuable antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals.
Penstemon: Rocky Mountain (Penstemon strictus)
$1.00 - $5.60
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Hardy, drought tolerant, and stunningly beautiful, what more could you want? Rich indigo blooms tower high on this Beardtongue, and are loved by hummingbirds and bees. Rocky Mountain Penstemon is one of the easiest Beardtongues to grow, and has a long blooming period of about a month in the Spring. A real show stopper!
Poached Egg Plant (Limnanthes douglasii)
$1.00 - $5.60
This native species was first discovered by David Douglas, a Scottish botanist commissioned to collect native American plants suitable for the gardens of Great Britain. The species name "douglasii" honors his discovery, while the genus name "Limnanthes" means "marsh flower" because of this plant's preference for moist soil. This fragrant butterfly magnet has been awarded the Royal Horticultural Society's prestigious Award of Garden Merit.
Pumpkin: Connecticut Field (Organic) (Cucurbita pepo)
$1.00 - $5.60
Connecticut Field Pumpkin, which dates back to the early 1700's, was developed for edible seeds and not sweet flesh. A great choice for Halloween carving and decorating, they have a flat base and uniform shape. A popular and well known variety to use for your next carved pumpkin contest! Don't forget to roast the delicious seeds for snacking!
Pumpkin: Cushaw Green Striped (Heirloom) (Cucurbita mixta)
$1.00 - $5.60
This Native American heirloom squash, whose common name of "Cushaw" comes from the Algonquin word coscushaw, has also been marketed as the Tennessee Sweet Potato because of its sweetness. New York seed man Grant Thorburn called it the Green Striped Bell in his 1847 catalog, and it was also sold beginning in 1883 by W. Atlee Burpee Co. Since Cushaw Green Striped resists squash vine borers, commercial farmers in the southern region rely on this variety for a good fall crop. Many Southern gardeners also prefer this variety for pies because of its superior taste.
Pumpkin: Fairytale (Heirloom) (Cucurbita moschata)
$1.00 - $5.60
Glowing mahogany brown, these large and beautiful antique French pumpkins have a wonderful flattened shape with deep rounded lobes just like a fairy tale illustration. This unique heirloom produces vines that are 10' in length that bare several pumpkins that are 12-18" in height and can reach up to 15 lbs each. Fairytale pumpkin is great tasting and commonly used for cooking and baking in pies. Fairytale pumpkin was first introduced to the American market in 1899 by Vaughn’s Seed Store of Chicago.
Pumpkin: Jack O' Lantern (Heirloom) (Cucurbita maxima)
$1.00 - $5.60
Early pumpkins, actually a form of squash, come from early Native American gardens. Native Americans grew these vegetables as part of the "three sisters" group comprised of beans, corn, and squash, since they provide mutual benefits. Pumpkins and squash became a valuable food source for the settlers of the New World.
Radish: Early Scarlet Globe (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Early Scarlet Globe is an early variety of radish and an favorite of many home gardeners because it matures in just 23 days! Though their exact origin is unknown, certainly have been growing in America since the late 19th century. After reviewing an assortment of the early radishes then available, the June 1913 issue of "Garden Magazine" said of Scarlet Globe, "it remains in good table condition longer than any of the early sorts mentioned above."
Radish: French Breakfast (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Though the exact origin of French Breakfast radishes is unknown, renowned seed expert James J. H. Gregory of Marblehead, Massachusetts first offered them for sale in his seed catalog in 1875.
Radish: German Giant (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Radishes, in their early forms, come from the ancient civilizations of China, Greece, and Egypt; soon, surrounding nations also cultivated this vegetable. While the Oriental nations cultivated the large, elongated radishes, most of the round varieties such as German Giant were developed by the Dutch and the French. German Giant, as the name suggests, is an Amish heirloom that originated in Germany.
Radish: Watermelon (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
The Watermelon radish is a type of Japanese winter radish also known as a "daikon," which simply means "large root" in Japanese. Daikon radishes account for the largest percentage of any cultivated vegetable in Japan, and can be found in some form in nearly every meal of that country. Watermelon radishes, which orginated in north China near Beijing, are often served sweetened there as a dessert or fruit.
Radish: White Spear Sprouting (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
White Spear is a type of Japanese winter radish also known as a "daikon," which simply means "large root" in Japanese. Daikon radishes account for the largest percentage of any cultivated vegetable in Japan, and can be found in some form in nearly every meal of that country.
Squash, Summer: Dark Green Zucchini (Heirloom) (Cucurbita pepo)
$1.00 - $5.60
This is the traditional, reliable zucchini that just keeps on producing! Fruits are dark green, and nice and straight! Matures in about 60 days. Average water needs. Attractive to bees, butterflies, and/or birds.
Squash, Summer: Dixie (Cucurbita pepo)
$1.00 - $5.60
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Dixie is a smooth skin hybrid yellow crookneck that consistently produces high yields of excellent quality fruit. The 5-6" long fruits are early-maturing, uniform, lemony yellow in color and holds well after picking and tastiest when 4-6" long. Low in calories and a good source of vitamin A . This variety is excellent for freezing and canning.
Squash, Summer: Early White Bush Scallop (Heirloom) (Cucurbita pepo)
$1.00 - $5.60
With a delicate, mild flavor, much akin to zucchini, the scallop squash, is a small variety of summer squash. Lesser known than its relatives yellow squash or zucchini, patty pans have a distinct shape which some people describe as similar to a flying saucer.
Squash, Summer: Early Yellow Crookneck (Heirloom) (Cucurbita pepo)
$1.00 - $5.60
Crookneck Squash is part of the original "three sisters" plantings found by colonists when they arrived in the new world. Native American's used the grouping of corn, beans and crookneck squash so the plants all would benefit each other. Crookneck squash was a crucial food source for the American settlers and has been sold since 1928.
Squash, Summer: Grey Zucchini (Heirloom) (Cucurbita pepo)
$1.00 - $5.60
History records that Columbus carried this then unfamiliar member of the cucumber family back to Europe after his first voyage. In Italy it acquired the name "zucchino," meaning a small squash; the French name for a zucchini, which the English later adopted, is "courgette." Italian immigrants later brought the zucchini back to the United States, where it became the most popular and commonly available variety of summer squash.
Squash, Summer: Scallop Yellow Bush (Heirloom) (Cucurbita pepo)
$1.00 - $5.60
This colorful patty pan squash predates the arrival of Christopher Columbus in the New World. It is a rare Native American squash, having been domesticated in North America centuries before the arrival of explorers and settlers.
Squash, Winter: Sweet Meat (Heirloom) (Cucurbita maxima)
$1.00 - $5.60
Winter squash such as Sweet Meat comes from the Native Americans, developed and cultivated in their gardens long before the arrival of the explorers and settlers. Traditionally, squash was grown alongside beans and corn as part of the "three sisters" group; these three vegetables greatly benefit each others' growth. Sweet Meat heirloom squash, a northwestern favorite, was introduced by Gill Brothers Seed Company of Portland, Oregon.
Squash, Winter: Vegetable Spaghetti (Heirloom) (Cucurbita maxima)
$1.00 - $5.60
Originally from China, vegetable spaghetti squash was introduced to Japan in 1921 by a Chinese agricultural research company. The Burpee Seed Company introduced this variety to the United States in 1936; most World War II Victory Gardens contained this squash, more commonly known as spaghetti squash.
Squash, Winter: Waltham Butternut (Heirloom) (Cucurbita maxima)
$1.00 - $5.60
Waltham Butternut Squash is of uniform shape with a hard rind that keeps exceptionally well. Created by Bob Young of Waltham Massachusetts, it was introduced commercially in 1977. Waltham Butternut Winter Squash won the AAS Award in 1970 and has continued to set the standard for butternut squash.
Yarrow: Red (Achillea millefolium rubra)
$1.00 - $5.60
Native to Southern Europe, yarrow has been a traditional part of herb gardens for hundreds of years because of its fragrant foliage and cheerful, long lasting flowers. Yarrow can often be found in fields, along roads, or on rocky hillsides. Linnaeus named it for Greek general Achilles, who according to legend received yarrow as a gift from the gods; the general’s soldiers used yarrow to stanch the flow of their blood in the battlefields of the Trojan War. In the early days of the American prairies, Native American tribes such as the Pawnee, Cherokee, and Chippewa used common yarrow to relieve pain and headaches, reduce fever, and induce sleep. When taken internally as a tea, yarrow purifies the system and has anti-inflammatory benefits. Cosmetic preparations sometimes include yarrow because of its cleansing, refreshing effect. Medicinal use of yarrow is not recommended for expectant mothers.
Yarrow: White (Achillea millefolium)
$1.00 - $5.60
Native to Southern Europe, yarrow has been a traditional part of herb gardens for hundreds of years because of its fragrant foliage and cheerful, long lasting flowers. Yarrow can often be found in fields, along roads, or on rocky hillsides. Linnaeus named it for Greek general Achilles, who according to legend received yarrow as a gift from the gods; the general’s soldiers used yarrow to stanch the flow of their blood in the battlefields of the Trojan War. In the early days of the American prairies, Native American tribes such as the Pawnee, Cherokee, and Chippewa used common yarrow to relieve pain and headaches, reduce fever, and induce sleep. When taken internally as a tea, yarrow purifies the system and has anti-inflammatory benefits. Cosmetic preparations sometimes include yarrow because of its cleansing, refreshing effect. Medicinal use of yarrow is not recommended for expectant mothers.