Cucumber: Straight Eight (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
SKU:
$1.00
$1.00 - $5.60
$1.00
per item
Historians generally agree that the first cucumbers grew in India's Himalyan Mountains over 3,000 years ago. From this region they expanded into Greece and Rome; the Romans most likely spread this vegetable to the rest of Europe. The cucumber was widely grown by native Americans through the influence of the Spanish and other explorers. Cucumbers continue to be a vital part of traditional cuisine in Russia and many parts of Asia; the greatest variety of colors and shapes of this vegetable can still be found in its Asian birthplace. Straight Eight cucumbers in particular were developed because of the demand for straight cucumbers; they exceeded all expectations, and won the AAS Gold Medal Award in 1935.
Scientific Name: Cucumis sativus
Also Known As: Straight 8
Grown as: Annual
Maturity: 63 days
Growing Habit: Vine
Hardiness: Tender. Cucumber can't stand any frost at all.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Summer
Growing Season: Short, Long
Growing Conditions: Warm, Hot. Cucumbers are native to the tropics and absolutely must have warm soil (70˚ F minimum) for good germination and growth. Consequently they are among the last crops to be planted out in spring. Most varieties fruit better in short days, so they tend to be more productive later in the summer.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 60°F - 90°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 60°F. Cucumbers take 2 weeks to germinate at 60 degrees, but only 3 days at 85 degrees.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Warm, Hot). Needs full sun.
Water: High. Cucumbers are mainly composed of water and need a constant and abundant supply of it for best growth. The best way to water Cucumbers is with a drip system or soaker hose, as this keeps the leaves dry and so reduces the chance of disease problems. If you must get the leaves wet, water in the morning, or early evening, so they have a chance to dry out quickly. You don't want the leaves to stay wet all night. Be careful not to overwater germinating seeds or they may rot. It's best to soak the ground or the potting soil heavily when first planting, then avoid watering again if possible until seedlings emerge. Cucumber seeds emerge in 5+ days; very lightly water ground or potting soil around day 3 or 4 to keep soil from crusting so that seeds can emerge more easily.
Feeder: Heavy. Cucumber grows fast and produces a lot of foliage, so its no surprise that it is a fairly hungry plant and likes fertile soil.
Suitability: Needs lots of space
Small Gardens?: No
Containers?: Yes. Cucumbers grow quite well in containers and several varieties have been produced specifically for this. They will be more productive in larger containers (at least 12" in diameter). In order to prevent root rot, it is important that your container has drainage holes. Line the bottom of your container with weed cloth or newspaper and then cover with a handful of small rocks. Fill the remainder with amixture of peat moss, compost and potting soil. Cucumbers need a minimum of 6 hours of sunlight per day. In extremely hot climates, it is best to provide partial shade and keep your container away from direct sunlight. Cucumbers need lots of water, and they prefer moist soil.
Attracts beneficial insects?: Yes
Forage: Rabbits.
Height: 6-12’
Sow Depth: 1/2"
Spacing: 24-36"
Produces: 6-8" cucumbers.
USDA Hardiness Zone: 3-14
Also Known As: Straight 8
Grown as: Annual
Maturity: 63 days
Growing Habit: Vine
Hardiness: Tender. Cucumber can't stand any frost at all.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Summer
Growing Season: Short, Long
Growing Conditions: Warm, Hot. Cucumbers are native to the tropics and absolutely must have warm soil (70˚ F minimum) for good germination and growth. Consequently they are among the last crops to be planted out in spring. Most varieties fruit better in short days, so they tend to be more productive later in the summer.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 60°F - 90°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 60°F. Cucumbers take 2 weeks to germinate at 60 degrees, but only 3 days at 85 degrees.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Warm, Hot). Needs full sun.
Water: High. Cucumbers are mainly composed of water and need a constant and abundant supply of it for best growth. The best way to water Cucumbers is with a drip system or soaker hose, as this keeps the leaves dry and so reduces the chance of disease problems. If you must get the leaves wet, water in the morning, or early evening, so they have a chance to dry out quickly. You don't want the leaves to stay wet all night. Be careful not to overwater germinating seeds or they may rot. It's best to soak the ground or the potting soil heavily when first planting, then avoid watering again if possible until seedlings emerge. Cucumber seeds emerge in 5+ days; very lightly water ground or potting soil around day 3 or 4 to keep soil from crusting so that seeds can emerge more easily.
Feeder: Heavy. Cucumber grows fast and produces a lot of foliage, so its no surprise that it is a fairly hungry plant and likes fertile soil.
Suitability: Needs lots of space
Small Gardens?: No
Containers?: Yes. Cucumbers grow quite well in containers and several varieties have been produced specifically for this. They will be more productive in larger containers (at least 12" in diameter). In order to prevent root rot, it is important that your container has drainage holes. Line the bottom of your container with weed cloth or newspaper and then cover with a handful of small rocks. Fill the remainder with amixture of peat moss, compost and potting soil. Cucumbers need a minimum of 6 hours of sunlight per day. In extremely hot climates, it is best to provide partial shade and keep your container away from direct sunlight. Cucumbers need lots of water, and they prefer moist soil.
Attracts beneficial insects?: Yes
Forage: Rabbits.
Height: 6-12’
Sow Depth: 1/2"
Spacing: 24-36"
Produces: 6-8" cucumbers.
USDA Hardiness Zone: 3-14
Soil Preparation
Soil Preference:
Soil pH: 6.0-7.0, Ideal 6.4-6.6. Cucumbers grow rapidly once established and to sustain their high level of growth they need a rich soil. It should be loose, moisture-retentive and well-drained, with lots of organic matter. Raised beds are good for Cucumbers, because they help the soil warm up quickly and provide good drainage.
Soil Preparation:
Compost (Nitrogen), 4 cups per plant, in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Mix your compost into the soil from the planting hole to supply nutrients. Return the compost-enriched soil to the hole when planting.
Lime (Calcium), 5 pounds per 100 sq. ft., in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Cucumbers don't like acid soil so add lime if necessary. The amount will depend upon your soil pH.
Standard Mix, 1 cup per plant, in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Standard Mix should be mixed into the soil in the planting hole to supply any additional nutrients required by the plants. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Soil pH: 6.0-7.0, Ideal 6.4-6.6. Cucumbers grow rapidly once established and to sustain their high level of growth they need a rich soil. It should be loose, moisture-retentive and well-drained, with lots of organic matter. Raised beds are good for Cucumbers, because they help the soil warm up quickly and provide good drainage.
Soil Preparation:
Compost (Nitrogen), 4 cups per plant, in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Mix your compost into the soil from the planting hole to supply nutrients. Return the compost-enriched soil to the hole when planting.
Lime (Calcium), 5 pounds per 100 sq. ft., in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Cucumbers don't like acid soil so add lime if necessary. The amount will depend upon your soil pH.
Standard Mix, 1 cup per plant, in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Standard Mix should be mixed into the soil in the planting hole to supply any additional nutrients required by the plants. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
- 4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
- 2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
- 2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
- 1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
- 1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Start Indoors
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 2.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cold soil and up to 2" deep in warm soil.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 105°F, optimal 70°F to 85°F, optimal 86°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 8 to 9 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 0-2 weeks after last frost date. Early Cucumbers are usually started indoors, because the soil outside may not be warm enough for good germination (even though the air may be warm enough for their growth). You can hasten soil warming with a black plastic mulch. Cucumbers dislike transplanting, so are usually started in individual 3˝ or 4˝ containers, 2 seeds to a pot (later thinned to the best one). Don’t use smaller containers, as the seedlings grow so quickly you will soon have to re-pot them. Be careful not to overwater germinating seeds or they may rot. It's best to soak the ground or the potting soil heavily when first planting, then avoid watering again if possible until seedlings emerge. (For seeds in potting soil, keep them warm but out of direct sunlight so that they don't dry out so fast.) Cucumber seeds emerge in 5+ days; very lightly water ground or potting soil around day 3 or 4 to keep soil from crusting so that seeds can emerge more easily.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 105°F, optimal 70°F to 85°F, optimal 86°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 8 to 9 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 0-2 weeks after last frost date. Early Cucumbers are usually started indoors, because the soil outside may not be warm enough for good germination (even though the air may be warm enough for their growth). You can hasten soil warming with a black plastic mulch. Cucumbers dislike transplanting, so are usually started in individual 3˝ or 4˝ containers, 2 seeds to a pot (later thinned to the best one). Don’t use smaller containers, as the seedlings grow so quickly you will soon have to re-pot them. Be careful not to overwater germinating seeds or they may rot. It's best to soak the ground or the potting soil heavily when first planting, then avoid watering again if possible until seedlings emerge. (For seeds in potting soil, keep them warm but out of direct sunlight so that they don't dry out so fast.) Cucumber seeds emerge in 5+ days; very lightly water ground or potting soil around day 3 or 4 to keep soil from crusting so that seeds can emerge more easily.
Transplant Outdoors
3-4 weeks after last frost date:
1. Plant out the seedlings up to their first true leaves and water immediately. If the weather isn’t warm, you might want to cover them with cloches.
Warm, Hot: Cucumbers are native to the tropics and absolutely must have warm soil (70˚ F minimum) for good germination and growth. Consequently they are among the last crops to be planted out in spring. Most varieties fruit better in short days, so they tend to be more productive later in the summer.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Cucumbers take 2 weeks to germinate at 60 degrees, but only 3 days at 85 degrees.
Spacing: 18-48", (3 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Intensive bed spacing varies from 15-24" apart, depending upon the soil and the variety. In intensive beds, it is probably best to sow cucumbers in 2 alternate rows down the middle of the bed. You can inter-plant a fast growing crop at the same time, to take advantage of the temporarily vacant space. Trellised plants can be grown 6 to 8" apart in the row, with 24-36" between the rows. Trellised cucumbers are the most efficient use of space in the garden, as long as they do not shade other plants that need sunlight. Cucumber hills are planted 36 to 48" apart. Cucumber hills are built by digging a hole 12" in diameter and 12" deep. Half fill the hole with compost and then return the soil to the hole, leaving a slightly raised mound. Several seeds are sown on top of the mound, and then thinned to the best 2 or 3 plants. The hills are spaced about 3-4' apart, to give the plants room to sprawl.
Support: At planting. Cucumbers take up a considerable amount of space if left to sprawl randomly across the ground. Fortunately many varieties are good climbers and will happily use vertical space instead of ground space. Trellised plants may take up only one tenth of the bed space of unsupported ones. Trellising can increase yields by as much as 100%, because fewer fruits are lost to rot, disease or slugs and there is more light for photosynthesis. The fruits will also be straighter and cleaner. If building a trellis seems like a good idea, but too much work, you can also plant them along a wire fence. You can also use cages of 6" mesh steel reinforcing wire, 3' in diameter and 6' high. These can work well, though the plants may eventually outgrow them. These cages can even be covered with plastic to protect the plants from late frost. Many kinds of trellises have been used for supporting Cucumbers, including fencing wire, nylon netting and Bamboo canes. Be creative, but make sure it is strong enough to support the considerable weight of a fruiting crop. In very dry areas it is better to leave the plants close to the ground, rather than trellising them. They can then create their own little humid micro-climate and lose water less rapidly. If you are going to support your cucumbers, you should set it up before planting. This will minimize disturbance to the young plants.
1. Plant out the seedlings up to their first true leaves and water immediately. If the weather isn’t warm, you might want to cover them with cloches.
Warm, Hot: Cucumbers are native to the tropics and absolutely must have warm soil (70˚ F minimum) for good germination and growth. Consequently they are among the last crops to be planted out in spring. Most varieties fruit better in short days, so they tend to be more productive later in the summer.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Cucumbers take 2 weeks to germinate at 60 degrees, but only 3 days at 85 degrees.
Spacing: 18-48", (3 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Intensive bed spacing varies from 15-24" apart, depending upon the soil and the variety. In intensive beds, it is probably best to sow cucumbers in 2 alternate rows down the middle of the bed. You can inter-plant a fast growing crop at the same time, to take advantage of the temporarily vacant space. Trellised plants can be grown 6 to 8" apart in the row, with 24-36" between the rows. Trellised cucumbers are the most efficient use of space in the garden, as long as they do not shade other plants that need sunlight. Cucumber hills are planted 36 to 48" apart. Cucumber hills are built by digging a hole 12" in diameter and 12" deep. Half fill the hole with compost and then return the soil to the hole, leaving a slightly raised mound. Several seeds are sown on top of the mound, and then thinned to the best 2 or 3 plants. The hills are spaced about 3-4' apart, to give the plants room to sprawl.
Support: At planting. Cucumbers take up a considerable amount of space if left to sprawl randomly across the ground. Fortunately many varieties are good climbers and will happily use vertical space instead of ground space. Trellised plants may take up only one tenth of the bed space of unsupported ones. Trellising can increase yields by as much as 100%, because fewer fruits are lost to rot, disease or slugs and there is more light for photosynthesis. The fruits will also be straighter and cleaner. If building a trellis seems like a good idea, but too much work, you can also plant them along a wire fence. You can also use cages of 6" mesh steel reinforcing wire, 3' in diameter and 6' high. These can work well, though the plants may eventually outgrow them. These cages can even be covered with plastic to protect the plants from late frost. Many kinds of trellises have been used for supporting Cucumbers, including fencing wire, nylon netting and Bamboo canes. Be creative, but make sure it is strong enough to support the considerable weight of a fruiting crop. In very dry areas it is better to leave the plants close to the ground, rather than trellising them. They can then create their own little humid micro-climate and lose water less rapidly. If you are going to support your cucumbers, you should set it up before planting. This will minimize disturbance to the young plants.
Start Outdoors
When Warm, Hot: Cucumbers are native to the tropics and absolutely must have warm soil (70˚ F minimum) for good germination and growth. Consequently they are among the last crops to be planted out in spring. Most varieties fruit better in short days, so they tend to be more productive later in the summer.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Cucumbers take 2 weeks to germinate at 60 degrees, but only 3 days at 85 degrees.
Seed Depth: 0.5"-2.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cold soil and up to 2" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 18-48", (3 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Intensive bed spacing varies from 15-24" apart, depending upon the soil and the variety. In intensive beds, it is probably best to sow cucumbers in 2 alternate rows down the middle of the bed. You can inter-plant a fast growing crop at the same time, to take advantage of the temporarily vacant space. Trellised plants can be grown 6 to 8" apart in the row, with 24-36" between the rows. Trellised cucumbers are the most efficient use of space in the garden, as long as they do not shade other plants that need sunlight. Cucumber hills are planted 36-48" apart. Cucumber hills are built by digging a hole 12" in diameter and 12" deep. Half fill the hole with compost and then return the soil to the hole, leaving a slightly raised mound. Several seeds are sown on top of the mound, and then thinned to the best 2 or 3 plants. The hills are spaced about 3-4' feet apart, to give the plants room to sprawl.
Summer Crop: 3-4 weeks after last frost date. Once the soil has warmed up it is simpler to sow cucumbers directly in the soil. In good conditions they grow very quickly and will often catch up with transplants, even though they were started several weeks later.
1. You might want to soak the seed overnight before planting to hasten germination. You can even pre-germinate them (this is easy because they are so large).
2. Plant the seeds 2˝ to 3˝ deep.
Be careful not to overwater germinating seeds or they may rot. It's best to soak the ground or the potting soil heavily when first planting, then avoid watering again if possible until seedlings emerge. (For seeds in potting soil, keep them warm but out of direct sunlight so that they don't dry out so fast.) Cucumber seeds emerge in 5+ days; very lightly water ground or potting soil around day 3 or 4 to keep soil from crusting so that seeds can emerge more easily.
Support: At planting. Cucumbers take up a considerable amount of space if left to sprawl randomly across the ground. Fortunately many varieties are good climbers and will happily use vertical space instead of ground space. Trellised plants may take up only one tenth of the bed space of unsupported ones. Trellising can increase yields by as much as 100%, because fewer fruits are lost to rot, disease or slugs and there is more light for photosynthesis. The fruits will also be straighter and cleaner. If building a trellis seems like a good idea, but too much work, you can also plant them along a wire fence. You can also use cages of 6" mesh steel reinforcing wire, 3 feet in diameter and 6 feet high. These can work well, though the plants may eventually outgrow them. These cages can even be covered with plastic to protect the plants from late frost. Many kinds of trellises have been used for supporting Cucumbers, including fencing wire, nylon netting and Bamboo canes. Be creative, but make sure it is strong enough to support the considerable weight of a fruiting crop. In very dry areas it is better to leave the plants close to the ground, rather than trellising them. They can then create their own little humid micro-climate and lose water less rapidly. If you are going to support your cucumbers, you should set it up before planting. This will minimize disturbance to the young plants.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Cucumbers take 2 weeks to germinate at 60 degrees, but only 3 days at 85 degrees.
Seed Depth: 0.5"-2.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cold soil and up to 2" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 18-48", (3 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Intensive bed spacing varies from 15-24" apart, depending upon the soil and the variety. In intensive beds, it is probably best to sow cucumbers in 2 alternate rows down the middle of the bed. You can inter-plant a fast growing crop at the same time, to take advantage of the temporarily vacant space. Trellised plants can be grown 6 to 8" apart in the row, with 24-36" between the rows. Trellised cucumbers are the most efficient use of space in the garden, as long as they do not shade other plants that need sunlight. Cucumber hills are planted 36-48" apart. Cucumber hills are built by digging a hole 12" in diameter and 12" deep. Half fill the hole with compost and then return the soil to the hole, leaving a slightly raised mound. Several seeds are sown on top of the mound, and then thinned to the best 2 or 3 plants. The hills are spaced about 3-4' feet apart, to give the plants room to sprawl.
Summer Crop: 3-4 weeks after last frost date. Once the soil has warmed up it is simpler to sow cucumbers directly in the soil. In good conditions they grow very quickly and will often catch up with transplants, even though they were started several weeks later.
1. You might want to soak the seed overnight before planting to hasten germination. You can even pre-germinate them (this is easy because they are so large).
2. Plant the seeds 2˝ to 3˝ deep.
Be careful not to overwater germinating seeds or they may rot. It's best to soak the ground or the potting soil heavily when first planting, then avoid watering again if possible until seedlings emerge. (For seeds in potting soil, keep them warm but out of direct sunlight so that they don't dry out so fast.) Cucumber seeds emerge in 5+ days; very lightly water ground or potting soil around day 3 or 4 to keep soil from crusting so that seeds can emerge more easily.
Support: At planting. Cucumbers take up a considerable amount of space if left to sprawl randomly across the ground. Fortunately many varieties are good climbers and will happily use vertical space instead of ground space. Trellised plants may take up only one tenth of the bed space of unsupported ones. Trellising can increase yields by as much as 100%, because fewer fruits are lost to rot, disease or slugs and there is more light for photosynthesis. The fruits will also be straighter and cleaner. If building a trellis seems like a good idea, but too much work, you can also plant them along a wire fence. You can also use cages of 6" mesh steel reinforcing wire, 3 feet in diameter and 6 feet high. These can work well, though the plants may eventually outgrow them. These cages can even be covered with plastic to protect the plants from late frost. Many kinds of trellises have been used for supporting Cucumbers, including fencing wire, nylon netting and Bamboo canes. Be creative, but make sure it is strong enough to support the considerable weight of a fruiting crop. In very dry areas it is better to leave the plants close to the ground, rather than trellising them. They can then create their own little humid micro-climate and lose water less rapidly. If you are going to support your cucumbers, you should set it up before planting. This will minimize disturbance to the young plants.
If you give them everything they need, growing Cucumbers is fairly straightforward.
Water Needs: High. Watering, regularly. Water, 3 quart(s), regularly, 2 times a week Keep plants well watered. When the plants start producing, you should keep the soil evenly moist (but not wet) at all times or else your fruits will be bitter in flavor or misshapen. Ideally the water should be lukewarm (70˚ F), so it doesn’t shock the plants, or cool the soil significantly. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy.
Side Dressing, to warm soil: Mulch, 2 inch(es), to warm soil, 1 time. Mulch is beneficial to conserve moisture and keep weeds under control. The soil must be warm before you put this on though, as mulch insulates the soil and prevents it from warming up.
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Compost tea, 1 cup(s) per plant, after transplanting, 1 time. When the seedlings have recovered from transplanting, give each plant 1 cup of diluted compost tea (1 part compost tea : 2 parts water).
Protecting, after transplanting: Row cover(s), 1 layer(s), after transplanting, 1 time. If the weather is cool, cover the plants with row covers for the first few weeks.
Side Dressing, when 18" tall: Compost tea, 2 cup(s) per plant, when 18" tall, 1 time. If your soil isn’t very fertile, give them another feed when they are about 18˝ high. Give each plant 2 cups of diluted compost tea (1 part compost tea : 2 parts water).
Pruning, before fruit set: before fruit set, 3 times. Some people pinch out the growing tips of the young plants, to encourage branching. You might also pinch out the first few lateral shoots to encourage the plant to grow larger before it starts producing fruit.
Support: At planting. Cucumbers take up a considerable amount of space if left to sprawl randomly across the ground. Fortunately many varieties are good climbers and will happily use vertical space instead of ground space. Trellised plants may take up only one tenth of the bed space of unsupported ones. Trellising can increase yields by as much as 100%, because fewer fruits are lost to rot, disease or slugs and there is more light for photosynthesis. The fruits will also be straighter and cleaner. If building a trellis seems like a good idea, but too much work, you can also plant them along a wire fence. You can also use cages of 6" mesh steel reinforcing wire, 3 feet in diameter and 6 feet high. These can work well, though the plants may eventually outgrow them. These cages can even be covered with plastic to protect the plants from late frost. Many kinds of trellises have been used for supporting Cucumbers, including fencing wire, nylon netting and Bamboo canes. Be creative, but make sure it is strong enough to support the considerable weight of a fruiting crop. In very dry areas it is better to leave the plants close to the ground, rather than trellising them. They can then create their own little humid micro-climate and lose water less rapidly. If you are going to support your cucumbers, you should set it up before planting. This will minimize disturbance to the young plants.
Water Needs: High. Watering, regularly. Water, 3 quart(s), regularly, 2 times a week Keep plants well watered. When the plants start producing, you should keep the soil evenly moist (but not wet) at all times or else your fruits will be bitter in flavor or misshapen. Ideally the water should be lukewarm (70˚ F), so it doesn’t shock the plants, or cool the soil significantly. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy.
Side Dressing, to warm soil: Mulch, 2 inch(es), to warm soil, 1 time. Mulch is beneficial to conserve moisture and keep weeds under control. The soil must be warm before you put this on though, as mulch insulates the soil and prevents it from warming up.
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Compost tea, 1 cup(s) per plant, after transplanting, 1 time. When the seedlings have recovered from transplanting, give each plant 1 cup of diluted compost tea (1 part compost tea : 2 parts water).
Protecting, after transplanting: Row cover(s), 1 layer(s), after transplanting, 1 time. If the weather is cool, cover the plants with row covers for the first few weeks.
Side Dressing, when 18" tall: Compost tea, 2 cup(s) per plant, when 18" tall, 1 time. If your soil isn’t very fertile, give them another feed when they are about 18˝ high. Give each plant 2 cups of diluted compost tea (1 part compost tea : 2 parts water).
Pruning, before fruit set: before fruit set, 3 times. Some people pinch out the growing tips of the young plants, to encourage branching. You might also pinch out the first few lateral shoots to encourage the plant to grow larger before it starts producing fruit.
Support: At planting. Cucumbers take up a considerable amount of space if left to sprawl randomly across the ground. Fortunately many varieties are good climbers and will happily use vertical space instead of ground space. Trellised plants may take up only one tenth of the bed space of unsupported ones. Trellising can increase yields by as much as 100%, because fewer fruits are lost to rot, disease or slugs and there is more light for photosynthesis. The fruits will also be straighter and cleaner. If building a trellis seems like a good idea, but too much work, you can also plant them along a wire fence. You can also use cages of 6" mesh steel reinforcing wire, 3 feet in diameter and 6 feet high. These can work well, though the plants may eventually outgrow them. These cages can even be covered with plastic to protect the plants from late frost. Many kinds of trellises have been used for supporting Cucumbers, including fencing wire, nylon netting and Bamboo canes. Be creative, but make sure it is strong enough to support the considerable weight of a fruiting crop. In very dry areas it is better to leave the plants close to the ground, rather than trellising them. They can then create their own little humid micro-climate and lose water less rapidly. If you are going to support your cucumbers, you should set it up before planting. This will minimize disturbance to the young plants.
Harvesting
Ripening:
The fruit are ready for harvest 15 to 18 days after pollination. Harvest while small to medium-sized for best flavor. Keep harvesting fruit, even if misshapen, to keep vines productive.
When and How:
Whole Fruit, 1-70 days after maturity:
When: The fruit will be ready for harvest 15 to 18 days after pollination. The first fruits are usually quite small, simply because the plants themselves aren’t very big.
For maximum yield you should harvest the fruits just before they reach full size. You can gather them when smaller than this, but you won’t get as much food.
Once the plants start producing, you should check them every 2 to 3 days and harvest any fruits that are ready. Don’t leave the fruits too long, as they will start to develop hard seeds and the skin will toughen and turn yellow. Definitely don’t allow any fruits to mature on the vine, as they can stop the plant producing altogether. Pick the fruits regularly, even if you just throw them away. If you want small fruits for pickling, you can harvest ordinary cucumbers while they are still small, but the specially bred pickling varieties will be much more productive.
How: It’s better to cut the fruit from the vine, rather than pulling it off. The stem is quite tough and it’s easy to break off the vine accidentally. Ideally you should leave a short section of stem on each fruit, to prevent moisture loss. Brush any small spines off of the fruit with your hands.
The fruit are ready for harvest 15 to 18 days after pollination. Harvest while small to medium-sized for best flavor. Keep harvesting fruit, even if misshapen, to keep vines productive.
When and How:
Whole Fruit, 1-70 days after maturity:
When: The fruit will be ready for harvest 15 to 18 days after pollination. The first fruits are usually quite small, simply because the plants themselves aren’t very big.
For maximum yield you should harvest the fruits just before they reach full size. You can gather them when smaller than this, but you won’t get as much food.
Once the plants start producing, you should check them every 2 to 3 days and harvest any fruits that are ready. Don’t leave the fruits too long, as they will start to develop hard seeds and the skin will toughen and turn yellow. Definitely don’t allow any fruits to mature on the vine, as they can stop the plant producing altogether. Pick the fruits regularly, even if you just throw them away. If you want small fruits for pickling, you can harvest ordinary cucumbers while they are still small, but the specially bred pickling varieties will be much more productive.
How: It’s better to cut the fruit from the vine, rather than pulling it off. The stem is quite tough and it’s easy to break off the vine accidentally. Ideally you should leave a short section of stem on each fruit, to prevent moisture loss. Brush any small spines off of the fruit with your hands.
Storage
Cucumbers can be pickled and stored in jars in the pantry.
Storage Req: Canning
Storage Temp: 50-70°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Cucumbers should be stored in a cool place (40 to 50˚ F), but not as cold as a refrigerator. They don’t keep for much more than a week, which is probably why pickling became popular.
Storage Req: Cool
Storage Temp: 40-50°F
Storage Req: Canning
Storage Temp: 50-70°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Cucumbers should be stored in a cool place (40 to 50˚ F), but not as cold as a refrigerator. They don’t keep for much more than a week, which is probably why pickling became popular.
Storage Req: Cool
Storage Temp: 40-50°F
Cucumbers are cross-pollinated by bees, and so must either be isolated by at least 1000 yards or hand pollinated. Hand pollination is fairly straightforward because the flowers are so large. It is done in the same way as for Squash flowers. Make sure you select the best and most typical plants for producing seed.
If you are saving seed, the fruit must be allowed to mature properly. It will turn yellow and start to wither when fully ripe. Separate the seeds from the pulp and ferment them for a couple of days in water. Finally, separate the cleaned seeds from the fermented mush and dry them thoroughly. Ideally they should have a moisture content of around 6% for storage. Be aware that a number of diseases can be seed borne.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-5 years
Germination Percentage: 80%
If you are saving seed, the fruit must be allowed to mature properly. It will turn yellow and start to wither when fully ripe. Separate the seeds from the pulp and ferment them for a couple of days in water. Finally, separate the cleaned seeds from the fermented mush and dry them thoroughly. Ideally they should have a moisture content of around 6% for storage. Be aware that a number of diseases can be seed borne.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-5 years
Germination Percentage: 80%
Culinary
Taste: Delicious mild flavor, sweet, crispy and smooth.
Culinary Use: Cucumbers used for pickling can be prepared for storage or used immediately. When storing make sure they are cleaned well in preparation for pickling. Pickling cucumbers can be combined with beets, cabbage, radish, carrots, or celery.
Fruit: raw or cooked. The cucumber is a common ingredient of salads, being valued mainly for its crisp texture and juiciness. However, it is very watery, with little flavor and is not very nutritious. Many people find the fruit to be indigestible, this is due to the high cellulose content. The fruit varies widely in size between cultivars but can be up to 1 meter long. It can be available from mid summer until early autumn from outdoor grown plants.
Seed: raw. Rich in oil with a nutty flavor but very fiddly to use because the seed is small and covered with a fibrous coat.
Young leaves and stems: cooked as a potherb.
Oil from seed: said to resemble olive oil, it is used in salad dressings and French cooking. The oil contains 22.3% linoleic acid, 58.5% oleic acid, 6.8% palmitic acid and 3.7% stearic acid.
Culinary Use: Cucumbers used for pickling can be prepared for storage or used immediately. When storing make sure they are cleaned well in preparation for pickling. Pickling cucumbers can be combined with beets, cabbage, radish, carrots, or celery.
Fruit: raw or cooked. The cucumber is a common ingredient of salads, being valued mainly for its crisp texture and juiciness. However, it is very watery, with little flavor and is not very nutritious. Many people find the fruit to be indigestible, this is due to the high cellulose content. The fruit varies widely in size between cultivars but can be up to 1 meter long. It can be available from mid summer until early autumn from outdoor grown plants.
Seed: raw. Rich in oil with a nutty flavor but very fiddly to use because the seed is small and covered with a fibrous coat.
Young leaves and stems: cooked as a potherb.
Oil from seed: said to resemble olive oil, it is used in salad dressings and French cooking. The oil contains 22.3% linoleic acid, 58.5% oleic acid, 6.8% palmitic acid and 3.7% stearic acid.
Medicinal
The leaf juice is emetic, it is used to treat dyspepsia in children. The fruit is depurative, diuretic, emollient, purgative and resolvent. The fresh fruit is used internally in the treatment of blemished skin, heat rash etc, whilst it is used externally as a poultice for burns, sores etc and also as a cosmetic for softening the skin. The seed is cooling, diuretic, tonic and vermifuge. 25 - 50 grams of the thoroughly ground seeds (including the seed coat) is a standard dose as a vermifuge and usually needs to be followed by a purgative to expel the worms from the body. A decoction of the root is diuretic.
Project Purity Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting
Companions: Cucumbers are great to plant with corn and beans. The three plants like the same conditions: warmth, rich soil and plenty of moisture. Let the cucumbers grow up and over your corn plants. Cukes also do well with peas, beets, radishes and carrots. Radishes are a good deterrent against cucumber beetles. Dill planted with cucumbers helps by attracting beneficial predators. Nasturtium improves growth and flavor.
Enemies: Keep sage, potatoes and rue away from cucumbers. It is said that cucumbers don't do well planted next to tomatoes. We have never had a problem with planting them next to each other.
Enemies: Keep sage, potatoes and rue away from cucumbers. It is said that cucumbers don't do well planted next to tomatoes. We have never had a problem with planting them next to each other.
Problems
No serious insect or disease problems. Watch for cucumber beetles which feed on the foliage and transmit diseases. Aphids and spider mites may be troublesome. Wilt, downy mildew, powdery mildew, anthracnose, stem blight, scab and leaf spot may occur. Mosaic virus is a potential problem in some areas.
Cucumber Beetles
Beneficial insects such as Braconid Wasps, Ground Beetles, Soldier Beetles, Spiders, and Tachinid flies all prey on Cucumber Beetles.
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Aphids
Beneficial insects such as Ladybugs, Collops Beetle, Soldier Beetles, Long-legged Flies, Hover Flies, Predaceous Midges, Damsel Bugs, Big-eyed Bugs, Minute Pirate Bugs, Lacewings, Parasitic Wasps,
Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.
Ladybeetles, Ladybugs, or Ladybird Beetles: Ladybeetles are probably the most well-known of beetles that eat aphids. There are many species, and both the adults and larvae eat aphids. Convergent lady beetles and the seven-spotted ladybeetles are abundant species in the environment. Eggs are found in clutches, yellow and football shaped. Larvae have an alligator-like appearance, and are black with orange markings. Pupae are sedentary. Ladybeetles are commercially available but purchasing is not generally recommended since the adult stage tends to fly away once released. Introductions may be more effective in greenhouses and high tunnels. Diverse plantings can help recruit resident ladybeetles to an area.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos,
Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow
(Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), \Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint
(Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white
sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos,
Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow
(Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), \Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint
(Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white
sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
Spidermites
Beneficial insects such as minute pirate bugs, bigeyed bugs, and lacewing larvae all prey on Spidermites.
Minute Pirate Bugs: Prey on Spider mites, Cabbage looper, Insect eggs, Caterpillars, Aphids, and Thrips.
To attract Minute pirate bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-Eyed Bugs: Prey on Aphids, small Caterpillars and Caterpillar eggs, Flea beetles, Fleahoppers, Lygus bugs, Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Prey on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, Spider Mites, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-Leaf Yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne's Lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower
(Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), and Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
To attract Minute pirate bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-Eyed Bugs: Prey on Aphids, small Caterpillars and Caterpillar eggs, Flea beetles, Fleahoppers, Lygus bugs, Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Prey on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, Spider Mites, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-Leaf Yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne's Lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower
(Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), and Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Nutrition
Cucumbers contain potassium and antioxidants.
The Health Benefits of Cucumbers
Skin Care: Cucumber is rich in silica, which is an essential component that aids in developing strong and healthy connective tissues in the muscles, ligaments, tendons, cartilage, and bones. Doctors often recommend cucumber juice because of the silica content for a healthier and brighter skin. Cucumber’s high water content makes it naturally hydrating, and it is well known that moisture is the best friend to healthy skin, so why not acquire the hydration naturally! The extract of cucumbers is often used topically for treating various types of skin ailments like sunburn and swelling under the eyes. Ascorbic and caffeic acid are the two vital compounds in cucumbers that prevent water loss from the body. These are some of the reasons why cucumbers are applied topically for various skin problems. You will be quite surprised to know that this squash also promotes healthy hair growth and can treat skin ailments like psoriasis, eczema, and acne.
Prevent Constipation & Kidney Stones: Cucumbers are a perfect blend of both fiber and water. Therefore, they help to protect your body from constipation and kidney stones. Reports say that a majority of Americans prefer to have a cucumber rich salad regularly as it is a great way to increase the fiber intake. Cucumber is also a good source of vitamin C, silica, potassium, and magnesium; all of which have their own health benefits. These fruits have an extraordinary amount of water (about 96%) that is naturally purified, thus making the water content much higher in quality than ordinary water. Cucumber skin contains high levels of vitamin A, so you will gain more nutrition if you eat the entire thing.
Control Blood Pressure: The studies done at DASH (Dietary Approaches to Stop Hypertension) consisted of people consuming foods high in magnesium, potassium, and fiber. The results were clear; their blood pressure lowered to normal levels. The group eating a diet rich in these complexes along with the other foods on the diet like seafood, low-fat dairy items, lean meat, and poultry saw their blood pressure falling by 5.5 points (systolic) over 3.0 points (diastolic). Cucumber, therefore, regulates blood pressure and contributes to the proper structure of connective tissues in our body, including those in the muscles, bones, ligaments, cartilage, and tendons.
Manage Diabetes: Cucumbers have been used for diabetic patients for many years. They possess a hormone required by the beta cells during insulin production. The glycemic index (GI) of cucumbers is actually zero. The presence of carbohydrates and their result on the body is measured by the quantity of glycemic index (GI). Every food item contains essential nutrients in different percentages. The carbohydrates contribute to raising the glucose level, however, the ones present in the cucumber can be easily digested by diabetic patients. Thus, consumption of this cool fruit keeps the glucose level in check. Nowadays, most commercial stores have cucumber supplements as spiny sea cucumber extract powder, which is very effective in combating the effects of diabetes.
Maintain Overall Health: Cucumbers have excellent cleaning properties, and they actively remove accumulated waste and toxins from your body. These fruits are very good for optimizing urinary bladder, kidney, liver and pancreatic functions. Cucumber juice along with carrot juice is extremely effective for rheumatic conditions caused by excessive uric acid in the body. Drinking cucumber juice on a regular basis also helps cure gout and eczema. If you are having lung or stomach problems, be sure to add it to your diet. It also promotes muscle flexibility, while the magnesium content of cucumbers ensures proper blood circulation and relaxed nerves. Since cucumbers are rich in minerals, they even prevent splitting of the finger and toenails. Cucumbers often act as antioxidants when you consume them with barbecued and fried foods.
Other Benefits: Cucumber has high alkaline levels, thus regulating the body’s blood pH and neutralizing acidity. People with gastric issues should consume cucumbers frequently.
Cucumbers help normalize body temperature during summer. Cucumber juice is a diuretic, so it is able to prevent kidney stones too. It can also counter the effects of uric acid, which prevents inflammation from conditions like arthritis, asthma, and gout.
Prevent Constipation & Kidney Stones: Cucumbers are a perfect blend of both fiber and water. Therefore, they help to protect your body from constipation and kidney stones. Reports say that a majority of Americans prefer to have a cucumber rich salad regularly as it is a great way to increase the fiber intake. Cucumber is also a good source of vitamin C, silica, potassium, and magnesium; all of which have their own health benefits. These fruits have an extraordinary amount of water (about 96%) that is naturally purified, thus making the water content much higher in quality than ordinary water. Cucumber skin contains high levels of vitamin A, so you will gain more nutrition if you eat the entire thing.
Control Blood Pressure: The studies done at DASH (Dietary Approaches to Stop Hypertension) consisted of people consuming foods high in magnesium, potassium, and fiber. The results were clear; their blood pressure lowered to normal levels. The group eating a diet rich in these complexes along with the other foods on the diet like seafood, low-fat dairy items, lean meat, and poultry saw their blood pressure falling by 5.5 points (systolic) over 3.0 points (diastolic). Cucumber, therefore, regulates blood pressure and contributes to the proper structure of connective tissues in our body, including those in the muscles, bones, ligaments, cartilage, and tendons.
Manage Diabetes: Cucumbers have been used for diabetic patients for many years. They possess a hormone required by the beta cells during insulin production. The glycemic index (GI) of cucumbers is actually zero. The presence of carbohydrates and their result on the body is measured by the quantity of glycemic index (GI). Every food item contains essential nutrients in different percentages. The carbohydrates contribute to raising the glucose level, however, the ones present in the cucumber can be easily digested by diabetic patients. Thus, consumption of this cool fruit keeps the glucose level in check. Nowadays, most commercial stores have cucumber supplements as spiny sea cucumber extract powder, which is very effective in combating the effects of diabetes.
Maintain Overall Health: Cucumbers have excellent cleaning properties, and they actively remove accumulated waste and toxins from your body. These fruits are very good for optimizing urinary bladder, kidney, liver and pancreatic functions. Cucumber juice along with carrot juice is extremely effective for rheumatic conditions caused by excessive uric acid in the body. Drinking cucumber juice on a regular basis also helps cure gout and eczema. If you are having lung or stomach problems, be sure to add it to your diet. It also promotes muscle flexibility, while the magnesium content of cucumbers ensures proper blood circulation and relaxed nerves. Since cucumbers are rich in minerals, they even prevent splitting of the finger and toenails. Cucumbers often act as antioxidants when you consume them with barbecued and fried foods.
Other Benefits: Cucumber has high alkaline levels, thus regulating the body’s blood pH and neutralizing acidity. People with gastric issues should consume cucumbers frequently.
Cucumbers help normalize body temperature during summer. Cucumber juice is a diuretic, so it is able to prevent kidney stones too. It can also counter the effects of uric acid, which prevents inflammation from conditions like arthritis, asthma, and gout.
Cucumber skins have been shown to repel cockroaches in laboratory experiments. The fruit is applied to the skin as a cleansing cosmetic to soften and whiten it. The juice is used in many beauty products.
Suggested Varieties
Amaranth: Love Lies Bleeding (Heirloom) (Amaranthus caudatus)
$1.00 - $5.60
As a decorative flower, Love-Lies-Bleeding grew in many Victorian English gardens; in the language of flowers, it represents hopeless love. In addition to producing lovely flowers, Love-Lies-Bleeding is a form of the grain-producing plant known as amaranth. A staple grain for the Aztecs and Incas, amaranth was referred to as the "golden grain of the gods" and used in religious rituals. The plant nearly died out when the Spanish Conquistadors declared their religious practices barbaric, and made growing amaranth a capital offense. Today, both the leaves and the seeds of amaranth are an important food source in many parts of the world. This unique grain provides an impressive amount of vitamins and minerals, as well as being very rich in protein.
Amaranth: Perfecta (Heirloom) (Amaranthus Tricolor 'Perfecta')
$1.00 - $5.60
This fast-growing, heat-loving plant originated in tropical Asia, where it is widely cultivated as a leaf vegetable. It bears large, elliptic or oval leaves on erect stems. The brightly hued new leaves fade gradually to medium green with deep maroon markings. This cultivar is spectacular from summer to frost. Insignificant clusters of green or reddish flowers appear at the stem tips and in the leaf axils in summer. Small capsules containing a single brown or black seed follow the flowers.
Amaranth: Red Garnet (Heirloom) (Amaranthus tricolor)
$1.00 - $5.60
Amaranth had a sacred status in the ancient civilizations of the Aztecs and Incas, since the grain was used in various religious rituals. It remains a staple food in modern Mexico and some parts of Asia, being prepared in numerous dishes from sweet to savory. One traditional Mexican treat known as "alegria" is made with amaranth grain and honey or molasses. A super grain, amaranth can be used for gluten free flour; it also makes a complete protein when mixed with another grain. In addition, amaranth greens have a higher iron content than any other green vegetable except parsley, as well as containing many valuable vitamins and minerals.
Beans: Black Turtle (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
In colonial America, black beans were not appreciated because of their unappealing color. As a result, the Black Turtle bean was advertised as an affordable substitute for turtle in the making of turtle soup, a delicacy during that time in history. Black beans originate in South America; some historians fix the date as far back as 8,000 BC to the Pre-Incan civilization in Peru. People from this time valued dry beans because of their long lasting freshness in storage. Black beans are a favorite in Latin American cooking for use in soups, sauces, and main dishes.
Beans: Blue Lake Bush #274 (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
Named for the Blue Lake District near Ukiah, CA, where they first developed in 1961, these world famous beans set the standard for bush beans. The canning industry first widely used Blue Lake beans because of their excellence when canned, but they soon became known and loved all over the United States. Blue Lake beans stand on the top of the list of gourmet cooks and gardeners alike because of their unsurpassed flavor and high yield.
Beans: Contender Bush (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
First offered to gardeners in 1949, Contender comes from a high yielding, disease resistant strain. Originally, the common bean comes from South America; some historians fix the date as far back as 8,000 BC to the Pre-Incan civilization in Peru. When Columbus arrived in the New World, he found green beans growing with the maize of the Indians. Columbus and other European explorers introduced this new vegetable to their countries, where it eventually spread to the rest of Europe and all over the world.
Beans: Gold Rush Yellow Wax (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
The vegetable we now recognize as the common bean has its roots in South America; some historians fix the date as far back as 8,000 BC to the Pre-Incan civilization in Peru. When Columbus arrived in the New World, he found green beans growing with the maize of the Indians. Columbus and other European explorers introduced this new vegetable to their countries, where it eventually spread to the rest of Europe and all over the world.
Beans: Kentucky Wonder Pole (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
Sold out
First appearing in the late 1800's, Kentucky Wonder Pole beans are descended from an old variety of pole bean called Texas Pole. When first introduced, Kentucky Wonder had the name of Old Homestead. In 1877, James J. H. Gregory & Sons made it available in their catalog. It immediately became widely popular for its flat, stringless pods that could be eaten fresh or dried for soup beans.
Beans: Lazy Housewife Pole (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
2015 Bean of the Year. Brought to America by German immigrants and first listed in W. Atlee Burpee’s 1888 catalog. These beans were so-named because they were the first beans to not require destringing! Originally cultivated in Central America, from Mexico to Peru, Bolivia and Argentina. The smaller beans are thought to have been cultivated in Mexico as long as 7,000 years ago, while the larger beans were cultivated in Peru starting 8,000 years ago. High in protein, easy to grow, dry and cook, they have sustained mankind for millennia.
Beans: Pinto (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
The pinto bean has its roots in South America; some historians fix the date as far back as 8,000 BC to the Pre-Incan civilization in Peru. People from this time valued dry beans because of their long lasting freshness in storage. Pinto beans contain the highest amount of fiber of any bean, and are the top choice for Mexican dishes such as refried beans and chile con carne.
Beans: Red Yard Long (Heirloom ) (Vigna unguiculata sesquipedalis)
$1.00 - $5.60
The yard long bean, often known as the Chinese long bean, originates in southern Asia; Carl Linnaeus first noted its presence in the New World in 1763. Actually a member of the cowpea family, they closely resemble green beans with a slightly more intense flavor and denser texture. Yard long beans have been a popular ingredient in Asian stir fries and other vegetable dishes for centuries. These beans also have a loyal following in the Mediterranean region, being known in Napes as "faiolo e maccarone," or "beans and macaroni," because of their noodle-like appearance.
Bean: Royalty Purple Pod Green (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
Royalty Purple Pod Green bean will add beautiful color to your garden with it's purple foliage and purple flowers. The bright purple pods are 5" long, stringless and turn green when cooked. This beautiful bush bean was introduced by Billy Hepler Seed Company in 1957.
Beets: Cylindra (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
Though Cylindra heirloom beets hail from Denmark, beets seem to have originated in the Mediterranean region, where people grew them for thousands of years. Later, beets grew in Germany and Holland and were used as cattle fodder; they were later imported to England for this purpose, but the poor began to raise them for an affordable food source. American colonists later brought them to the New World, where they became a commonly enjoyed food both for their roots and their greens. According to historians, George Washington experimented with beets, cross-pollinating them to create new varieties.
Beets: Detroit Dark Red (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
Detroit Dark Red heirloom beets hail from Ontario, Canada, where a Mr. Reeves developed them from blood turnips. This globular beet first made its appearance in 1892. However, beets seem to have originated in the Mediterranean region, where people grew them for thousands of years. Later, beets grew in Germany and Holland and were used as cattle fodder; they were later imported to England for this purpose, but the poor began to raise them for an affordable food source. American colonists later brought them to the New World, where they became a commonly enjoyed food both for their roots and their greens.
Beets: Golden Detroit (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
Sold out
Beets seem to have originated in the Mediterranean region, where people grew them for thousands of years. Later, beets grew in Germany and Holland and were used as cattle fodder; they were later imported to England for this purpose, but the poor began to raise them for an affordable food source. American colonists later brought them to the New World, where they became a commonly enjoyed food both for their roots and their greens. According to historians, George Washington experimented with beets, cross-pollinating them to create new varieties.
Bergamot: Wild (Monarda fistulosa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Butterfly attracting premier! Bursting with lavender heads of flowers, this popular perennial wildflower puts on a beautiful show! Medium to tall in height, this plant looks great planted en masse, or with other meadow dwellers. Its sweetly aromatic foliage makes it even more desirable. A classic!
Cabbage: Early Jersey Wakefield (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
$1.00 - $5.60
The first Early Jersey Wakefield cabbages were raised in 1840 by a man named Francis Brill of Jersey City, New Jersey. Thirty years later, seed companies all over the region offered this seed for sale; growers appreciated its early harvest and small, tender heads.
Caraway (Carum carvi)
$1.00 - $5.60
Possibly one of the oldest herbs, evidence of caraway has been found in the Neolithic ruins of Europe as well as in ancient Egypt. Medieval medicine recommended the use of caraway for the improvement of digestion as well as for infant colic; William Shakespeare himself made reference to the culinary use of this herb in his play Henry IV, when Falstaff is invited to "take a pippin and a dish of caraways." The flavor of caraway became extremely popular in Tudor England, especially cooked with fruit or for cakes and bread. Caraway has a well known role in the cuisine of Germany, Scandanavia, northern Africa, and various eastern European countries.
Carrots: Chantenay Red Cored (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
Introduced from France in the late 1800s. Blocky, broad-shouldered variety with blunt tip, about 5-1/2" long and 2-1/2" at the shoulder. Deep orange interior. Adaptable to clay and a wide range of soils. A versatile, good winter keeper that is quite tasty, raw or cooked. Stores well in the ground. Becomes sweeter in storage.
Carrots: Cosmic Purple (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The first mention of red, white, and purple carrots can be found in the records of both Afghanistan and Egypt. Yellow carrots, on the other hand, date back to Turkish records from the 900's. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California.
Carrots: Danvers (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The origin of carrots is somewhat obscure, but early records from many civilizations refer to this colorful root. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California. Danvers carrots in particular come from Danvers, Massachusetts, where the Eastern States Farmers Exchange introduced them in 1947.
Carrots: Rainbow Blend (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
Only a few left!
Festive Color and Flavor Mix of Purple, Yellow, Red and White Carrots is sure to delight—each with their own unique qualities. Purple has smooth skin, coreless orange flesh and is sweet and tasty. Solar Yellow holds its sunny hue inside and out, is crunchy, sweet and juicy. Lunar White is mild and delicious, and Atomic Red has high lycopene levels as well as a crispy texture that is great cooked.
Carrots: Scarlet Nantes (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The origin of carrots is somewhat obscure, but early records from many civilizations refer to this colorful root. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. The 19th century seed specialist Louis de Vilmorin introduced the French varieties of carrot such as Nantes and Chantenay, which both derive their names from their places of origin. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California.
Carrots: Tendersweet (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The origin of carrots is somewhat obscure, but early records from many civilizations refer to this colorful root. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. The Dutch were the among the first to cultivate the orange carrot; legend has it that their intent was to honor William of Orange. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California.
Chives: Garlic (Allium tuberosum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Originating in western China, garlic chives have been used in Asian cuisine for thousands of years. Unlike the traditional tubular leaves of regular chives, garlic chives have flat, narrow blades; some gardeners blanch their garlic chives, causing them to develop a pale yellow color. Traditional pad Thai, Chinese jiaozi, and various Korean dishes such as buchukimchi often contain garlic chives; they also make a popular addition to stir fries, soups, and dishes with eggs or fish. These delicately garlic scented leaves are often used more as a vegetable than an herb, and may also substitute for standard chives. Garlic chives provide abundant vitamins and minerals, including vitamin C, calcium, and iron.
Chives: Onion (Allium schoenoprasum var. album)
$1.00 - $5.60
Chives, the oldest species of edible onion known, has been used in China since about 3000 B.C. The botanical name actually comes from the Greek meaning, "reed-like leek". Chives are now grown all over the world; historical legend states that Marco Polo discovered this herb in China and brought it back to his native land. Medieval gardeners often planted chives around the borders for both decoration and to ward off harmful insects. Traditional medicinal uses, though not as common, included treatment for high cholesterol and poor digestion. Along with parsley, tarragon, and chervil, chives is included in the famous blend of herbs known as "Fines herbes." The onion-like flavor of chives makes them a traditional addition to dishes with cheese, eggs, fish, or potatoes; the flowers make a delicate herbal vinegar, in addition to being a colorful addition to salads.
Clover: Crimson (Trifolium incarnatum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Most commonly known as crimson clover, this wildflower is also called Italian or French clover in reference to it's nativity to Europe. This annual species blooms in a strawberry red, and it's delightful fragrance attracts bees by the score! A non-invasive, annual species of clover, it is often used as a cover-crop. In southern climates, plant it during your off-season, and watch the amazing results of this rich, nitrogen producing plant! The earthworms love it! Also a protein-rich forage crop for cattle and livestock, this gem of a wildflower is indispensable!
Coriander: Leisure (Coriandrum sativum)
$1.00 - $5.60
The coriander plant, whose leaves are known as cilantro, is native to the Mediterranean and Middle Easter countries; it is believed to be one of the earliest spices used by man. Early physicians such as Hippocrates used coriander primarily as an aromatic stimulant or to disguise the taste of unsavory medicines. Nearly every part of this herb has a culinary use; in Thai cuisine, the roots flavor spicy sauces, while the cilantro leaves season and garnish Chinese, Vietnamese, and Mexican dishes. The coriander seed is used in candy, specialty breads, sauces, desserts, and even perfumes. In Tudor England, coriander seeds coated with sugar were known as "comfits" and became a popular treat.
Corn: Country Gentleman-Open Pollinated (Heirloom) (Zea mays)
$1.00 - $5.60
Country Gentleman corn, a heirloom variety, is the most well known variety of shoepeg corn. Named for the similarity of its kernels to wooden pegs used in shoe making, shoepeg corn is characterized by small, irregular white kernels of unsurpassed tenderness and sweetness. The American South has made this type of corn its own, and it is virtually unrecognized in other areas of the United States. Country Gentleman was first offered for sale in 1890 by S. D. Woodruff & Sons.
Corn: Golden Bantam-Open Pollinated (Heirloom) (Zea mays)
$1.00 - $5.60
A Greenfield, Massachusetts native named J. G. Pickett is credited with developing this marvelous variety of corn. Later, seed expert E. L. Coy sent it to Burpee with the note, "you now own the very richest and sweetest corn ever known."
Corn, Popcorn: Shaman's Blue (Hybrid) Open Pollinated (Zea mays)
$1.00 - $5.60
Blue corn originated in the Andes Mountains of Peru, where the native peoples usually ground it into flour for cooking. Indians of Mexico and the southwestern United States also widely used this corn, since its dryness made it an excellent flour corn and gave it good resistance to disease. This exciting blue popcorn receives high marks for both visual and taste appeal. The unique blue/purple kernel pops into mounds of snow white popcorn that will satisfy any popcorn lover with its slightly sweet flavor.
Corn, Popcorn: South American Yellow (Zea mays)
$1.00 - $5.60
According to evidence found by archaeologists on the northern coast of Peru, popcorn was a staple in the ancient civilizations of South America. Popcorn also grew above the border, and it once occupied a space in nearly every American garden. At the beginning of the twentieth century, 52 varieties of popcorn were offered by the seed catalogs of the time. A wise choice for popcorn lovers! This prolific variety bears 2-3, 6-9 inch ears per plant. When popped, the large yellow kernels produce a buttery tasting popcorn.
Corn, Popcorn: Strawberry Red (Zea Mays)
$1.00 - $5.60
Although it's exact origin is unknown, it is believed that Strawberry Red Popcorn was domesticated by the Olmec and the Mayans. Not only is this amazing variety edible, but it is just as decorative. Each plant grows to 5-6' and bares two or so 2-3" strawberry shaped ears that are covered with brilliant burgundy kernels! Your mind will be blown as you watch the red kernels pop into white popcorn with in the blink of eye!
Cosmos: Bright Lights (Cosmos sulphureus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Because of their Mexican heritage, these bright annuals meet high heat and drought conditions with native beauty and vigor. Spanish conquistadors searching for gold discovered these flowers on their journeys through Mexico. Mission gardens often included these flowers, which priests gave the name “cosmos,” the Greek word for a harmonious whole, because of their neatly spaced petals. Cosmos flowers made their way to England with Spanish ambassadors in the late 18th century, and to the United States in the following century.
Cosmos: Candy Stripe (Cosmos bipinnatus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Because of their Mexican heritage, these bright annuals meet high heat and drought conditions with native beauty and vigor. Spanish conquistadors searching for gold discovered these flowers on their journeys through Mexico. Mission gardens often included these flowers, which priests gave the name “cosmos,” the Greek word for a harmonious whole, because of their neatly spaced petals. Cosmos flowers made their way to England with Spanish ambassadors in the late 18th century, and to the United States in the following century.
Cosmos: Radiance (Cosmos bipinnatus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Because of their Mexican heritage, these bright annuals meet high heat and drought conditions with native beauty and vigor. Spanish conquistadors searching for gold discovered these flowers on their journeys through Mexico. Mission gardens often included these flowers, which priests gave the name “cosmos,” the Greek word for a harmonious whole, because of their neatly spaced petals. Cosmos flowers made their way to England with Spanish ambassadors in the late 18th century, and to the United States in the following century.
Dill: Dukat (Anethum graveolens)
$1.00 - $5.60
Historical records suggest that dill has been used for medicinal purposes for over 5,000 years; its primary use was to calm the digestion and treat stomach ailments, hence its name from an old Saxon word meaning "to lull." Ancient Greek tradition suggested covering the head with dill leaves to induce sleep, while many herbal remedies from ages past recommend dill to soothe colicky babies. Traditionally, dill was thought to bring good fortune, protection, and wealth. Though the origin of dill's famous association with the pickle is not known, an 1640 recipe from the cook of England's King Charles I requires dill in its pickled cucumbers. Today, German, Greek, and Scandinavian cuisine most often include dill.
English Marigold (Calendula officinalis)
$1.00 - $5.60
This old-fashioned flower has a long history as both an ornamental garden plant and as an herb. When dried, the petals of Calendula flowers provide a culinary substitute for saffron; in times past, they were used to give a rich color to cheese or butter. Medicinal uses included treatments for measles and smallpox, as well as for dressing wounds on the battlefield. As well as being the traditional flower for October birthdays, calendula symbolizes sorrow and sympathy.
Fennel: Florence (Foeniculum vulgare var. azoricum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Fennel has a rich history in ancient Greece, where it was called "marathon." The Battle of Marathon in 490 BC and the Italian town of the same name both received their names from this plant, which the Grecians regarded as a symbol of victory. Its medicinal properties, which are many, include an ability to suppress the appetite. In 13th century England, people ate fennel seeds during fast days or long sermons to partially satisfy their hunger; this led to the nickname "meeting seeds." A tea made of fennel became a well known treatment for infant colic or digestive disturbances. The seed of the fennel plant is most commonly found in Middle Eastern cuisine, while the bulb-like portion of the plant is popular in Italian and German cuisine. While culinary use is perfectly safe, large doses of fennel should be avoided by expectant mothers.
Marigolds: Naughty Marietta (Tagetes patula)
$1.00 - $5.60
For non-stop bloom until frost, there's nothing better than French marigolds. The single flowers are golden yellow with mahogany streaks, and are very attractive to bees and butterflies. Ideal for planting along borders, or among vegetables to deter pests. Also makes a perfect container plant for pots or window boxes. The deeply divided foliage forms a bushy mound up to 12 inches high.
Marigolds: Sparky Mix French (Tagetes patula)
$1.00 - $5.60
This easy-to-grow French marigold will bloom all season long. Compact mounds up to 12 inches tall will produce vivid bi-color orange and yellow flowers with an unusual form. This unique flower has wider, wavy petals that make these blossoms spectacular when planted en masse. A beautiful choice for containers as well as gardens.
Marigold: White (Tagetes Erecta 'Kilimanjaro')
$1.00 - $5.60
Commonly called African marigold, Aztec marigold, American marigold or big marigold, is native to Mexico and Central America. Big marigold may be the best descriptive name because plants are noted for their large flowerheads. They typically grow from 1-4’ tall and feature huge, mostly double-globular flowers (2-4” diameter) in various shades of yellow, orange, and whitish. This variety is unaffected by high summer heat and generally blooms throughout the summer.
Mint: Pennyroyal (Mentha Pulegium)
$1.00 - $5.60
Pennyroyal, a member of the mint family, is a perennial herb that was once widely used but is not as common today. It has applications as an herbal remedy, culinary uses and as a decorative touch. Growing pennyroyal in the herb or perennial garden will add color with its lavender blooms.
Mint: Pepper (Mentha piperita)
$1.00 - $5.60
Sold out
Mint received its name from the Greek legend of "Minthe," a river nymph who was turned into a lowly plant to be trodden underfoot; the stimulating, sweet smell perpetuated the memory of Minthe. Most likely, peppermint hybridized from spearmint and water mint; its culinary and medicinal use dates back to at least 1550 BC, originating in Northern Africa and the Mediterranean. According to the records of ancient historian Pliny in the first century AD, the Greeks and Romans highly valued this herb, using it for sauces and beverages as well as to freshen rooms and linens. In these civilizations, mint even acted as currency. Currently, Michigan grows the most acres of mint in the United States; the United States provides about half the world's peppermint supply. Because it contains menthol, an antiseptic and anesthetic, tea of peppermint benefits conditions such as the common cold, asthma, congestion, and indigestion.
Nasturtiums: Empress of India (Tropaeolum minus)
$1.00 - $5.60
These brilliant crimson flowers are set off by the deep blue-green leaves. This heirloom variety has a dwarf, bushy habit, and will self-sow. Edible blooms and leaves make a lovely garnish and bright addition to salads.
Nasturtiums: Jewel Mix (Tropaeolum minus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Cheery three-inch blooms in a lovely mix of peach, pink, yellow, orange and red bloom all summer on this dwarf nasturtium. Compact growth and bright blooms make this an ideal choice for garden beds or containers. Thrives in poor soil, and does well in cool weather. The flowers and leaves are edible, and will attract hummingbirds and butterflies as well as beneficial insects.
Parsley: Italian Giant (Heirloom) (Petroselinum crispum var. neapolitanum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Parsley has a long and colorful history, being well known in many cultures. Myths and legends abound concerning this herb, making it the symbol of such widely varying things as death, victory, and life. One colonial superstition connecting parsley with death held such power that many farmers refused to grow this herb at all. Curly leaved parsley is the most well known and commonly available herb; it contains vitamins A and C as well as other valuable antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals.
Pea: Alaska (Heirloom) (Pisum sativum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Alaska peas, first known as Earliest of All Pea, (Pisum sativum) are a type of English garden pea from Bedford, England that was introduced in 1881 by Thomas Laxton. They are a result of the crossing of Ringleader and Little Gem peas. They contain less sugar and matures earlier than other pea plant cultivars. They were introduced in the United States in 1882 by James J.H. Gregory and have been one of the most popular pea varieties ever since. These peas are sturdy, grow well in cooler weather and are adapted for a shorter growing season. With optimal growing conditions, these flavorful legumes will develop rapidly and be ready for harvest in under two months.
Pea: Early Frosty (Heirloom) (Pisum sativum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Though no one really knows when peas were first cultivated, historians can be certain that people grew them for food by the Bronze Age. Legend has it that fresh peas first became popular when a French gardener introduced them to the court of Louis XIV. Because they could be dried and stored for long periods of time, people in colonial times also valued this vegetable. Horticulturalists and gardeners alike have continued cultivating peas of all varieties and sizes.
Penstemon: Rocky Mountain (Penstemon strictus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Hardy, drought tolerant, and stunningly beautiful, what more could you want? Rich indigo blooms tower high on this Beardtongue, and are loved by hummingbirds and bees. Rocky Mountain Penstemon is one of the easiest Beardtongues to grow, and has a long blooming period of about a month in the Spring. A real show stopper!
Poached Egg Plant (Limnanthes douglasii)
$1.00 - $5.60
This native species was first discovered by David Douglas, a Scottish botanist commissioned to collect native American plants suitable for the gardens of Great Britain. The species name "douglasii" honors his discovery, while the genus name "Limnanthes" means "marsh flower" because of this plant's preference for moist soil. This fragrant butterfly magnet has been awarded the Royal Horticultural Society's prestigious Award of Garden Merit.
Radish: Early Scarlet Globe (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Early Scarlet Globe is an early variety of radish and an favorite of many home gardeners because it matures in just 23 days! Though their exact origin is unknown, certainly have been growing in America since the late 19th century. After reviewing an assortment of the early radishes then available, the June 1913 issue of "Garden Magazine" said of Scarlet Globe, "it remains in good table condition longer than any of the early sorts mentioned above."
Radish: French Breakfast (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Though the exact origin of French Breakfast radishes is unknown, renowned seed expert James J. H. Gregory of Marblehead, Massachusetts first offered them for sale in his seed catalog in 1875.
Radish: German Giant (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Radishes, in their early forms, come from the ancient civilizations of China, Greece, and Egypt; soon, surrounding nations also cultivated this vegetable. While the Oriental nations cultivated the large, elongated radishes, most of the round varieties such as German Giant were developed by the Dutch and the French. German Giant, as the name suggests, is an Amish heirloom that originated in Germany.
Radish: Watermelon (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
The Watermelon radish is a type of Japanese winter radish also known as a "daikon," which simply means "large root" in Japanese. Daikon radishes account for the largest percentage of any cultivated vegetable in Japan, and can be found in some form in nearly every meal of that country. Watermelon radishes, which orginated in north China near Beijing, are often served sweetened there as a dessert or fruit.
Radish: White Spear Sprouting (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
White Spear is a type of Japanese winter radish also known as a "daikon," which simply means "large root" in Japanese. Daikon radishes account for the largest percentage of any cultivated vegetable in Japan, and can be found in some form in nearly every meal of that country.
Yarrow: Red (Achillea millefolium rubra)
$1.00 - $5.60
Native to Southern Europe, yarrow has been a traditional part of herb gardens for hundreds of years because of its fragrant foliage and cheerful, long lasting flowers. Yarrow can often be found in fields, along roads, or on rocky hillsides. Linnaeus named it for Greek general Achilles, who according to legend received yarrow as a gift from the gods; the general’s soldiers used yarrow to stanch the flow of their blood in the battlefields of the Trojan War. In the early days of the American prairies, Native American tribes such as the Pawnee, Cherokee, and Chippewa used common yarrow to relieve pain and headaches, reduce fever, and induce sleep. When taken internally as a tea, yarrow purifies the system and has anti-inflammatory benefits. Cosmetic preparations sometimes include yarrow because of its cleansing, refreshing effect. Medicinal use of yarrow is not recommended for expectant mothers.
Yarrow: White (Achillea millefolium)
$1.00 - $5.60
Native to Southern Europe, yarrow has been a traditional part of herb gardens for hundreds of years because of its fragrant foliage and cheerful, long lasting flowers. Yarrow can often be found in fields, along roads, or on rocky hillsides. Linnaeus named it for Greek general Achilles, who according to legend received yarrow as a gift from the gods; the general’s soldiers used yarrow to stanch the flow of their blood in the battlefields of the Trojan War. In the early days of the American prairies, Native American tribes such as the Pawnee, Cherokee, and Chippewa used common yarrow to relieve pain and headaches, reduce fever, and induce sleep. When taken internally as a tea, yarrow purifies the system and has anti-inflammatory benefits. Cosmetic preparations sometimes include yarrow because of its cleansing, refreshing effect. Medicinal use of yarrow is not recommended for expectant mothers.