Pepper, Hot: Habanero (Heirloom) (Capsicum chinense)
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General Information
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Soil Preperation & Start Indoors
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Transplant Outdoors
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Crop Care
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Harvesting & Storage
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Seed Saving
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Culinary & Medicinal
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Companion Planting
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Nutrition & Health Benefits
Also Known As: Chinese Pepper.
Ease of Growing: Moderate
Grown as: Annual
Days to Maturity: 90 days
Growing Habit: Bush
Hardiness: Very Tender. Very tender, they can't stand cold weather or frost.
Crops: Spring Transplant
Growing Season: Long
Growing Conditions: Warm, Hot. Peppers originated in the tropical highlands of Central and South America and grow best with warm (70 to 80˚ F) days, cool (55 to 65˚ F) nights and high humidity. If the soil gets above 85˚ F you can cool the soil by applying mulch and watering frequently with cold water.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 60°F - 95°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 65°F. The soil must be warm (at least 65° F). If necessary you could use black plastic mulch to hasten warming.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: No
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Warm, Hot). Full sun. In very hot climates they may benefit from light shade.
Water: Moderate. Pepper plants are somewhat drought tolerant (especially Hot Peppers), but lack of water can affect fruiting, so they should be kept moist for best production. Drip irrigation works well with Peppers. Sweet Peppers are particularly vulnerable to water stress when fruiting, so keep the soil evenly moist. If not given enough water, the fruits can develop a slightly bitter flavor (and may get Blossom End Rot). Don't leave water on the leaves overnight as this encourages disease.
Feeder: Heavy. Low nitrogen. High potassium. High phosphorus. Peppers are fairly hungry plants and require lots of phosphorus and potassium, but not too much nitrogen (which may result in big vigorous plants, but few fruits).
Suitability: Needs summer shade
Small Gardens?: Yes.
Containers?: Yes, but will need a large one, like a half wine barrel. Choose a container at least 16" in diameter. A container with drainage holes is a necessity in order to successfully grow peppers. Cover the holes with weed cloth, newspaper or any other similar material and then fill with potting soil. Peppers love warm weather and will not thrive if temperatures are either too cold or too hot. Place peppers in full sun in warm climates, but be sure they have access to shade in hot temperatures. Keep well-watered. Stake to keep fruit off the ground, mulch for disease and weed control.
Attracts beneficial insects?: No
Maintenance: Medium
Height: 24-36"
Spacing: 12-18"
Sow Depth: 1/4"
Hardiness Zone: 4-12
Produces: extremely hot 1-2" peppers that mature from green to orange to red.
Scoville Heat Units: 250,000-350,000
Soil Preparation
Black plastic, 1 layer, to warm soil, 1 time: OPTIONAL: The soil must be warm (at least 65˚ F) before these tender plants are set out. If necessary, you could use black plastic mulch to hasten warming. You can also make slits in the plastic for planting and leave the the mulch there to keep the soil warm, moist and weed free while growing the peppers.
Standard Mix, 1 cup per plant, after planting, 1 time: Standard mix will supply additional potassium, phosphorous and other nutrients. It should be incorporated into the the planting hole along with the compost. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
- 4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
- 2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
- 2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
- 1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
- 1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Compost (Nitrogen), 2 cups per plant, after planting, 1 time: Add 2 cups of compost or aged manure into the planting hole (along with the Standard Mix).
Starts Indoors
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 95°F, optimal 65°F to 90°F, optimal 85°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 10 to 10 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 6-8 weeks before last frost date. Peppers need to be started early because they are slow to get going. They are generally one of the last crops to be planted out in late spring, a couple of weeks after Tomatoes (4 weeks after the last frost). Peppers are one of the hardest of the common vegetable crops to raise successfully from seed, as they need quite warm temperatures for fastest growth. Pepper seeds germinate best at a temperature of 85˚ F, which is higher than almost any common crop.
1. Soaking the seed overnight is said to help by removing germination inhibitors and so may speed germination. It is sometimes recommended that before planting you soak the seeds in a 10% bleach solution, for 10 minutes, to kill any disease spores (it should then be rinsed to remove the bleach). It is said that this treatment may also speed germination by several days.
2. Plant the seeds in a flat (they don’t mind transplanting) or in cell packs or soil blocks.
3. It is a good idea to water them with tepid water to avoid cooling them.
Harden Off: 2-3 weeks after last frost date. If you are planting Peppers out in cool spring conditions, they should be hardened off carefully. Do this slowly over a week, by reducing the amount of water they get and by leaving them outside for longer periods each day. This helps them to get accustomed to the somewhat less than ideal conditions to be found outside. In warm summer weather there is no need to harden them off. However you may want to keep them outside in the shade for a few days, so they don’t get sunburned when planted out.
1. Good transplants should be about 6˝ tall when they go outside.
2. The soil must be warm (at least 65˚ F) before these tender plants are set out.
Warm, Hot: Peppers originated in the tropical highlands of Central and South America and grow best with warm (70 to 80˚ F) days, cool (55 to 65˚ F) nights and high humidity. If the soil gets above 85˚ F you can cool the soil by applying mulch and watering frequently with cold water.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 65°F. The soil must be warm (at least 65° F). If necessary you could use black plastic mulch to hasten warming.
Spacing: 10-12", 1 plants per sq ft. Intensive: Space Peppers 8" apart.
Rows: Space the plants 10 to 12" apart, with 24" between the rows. Depending on the variety of peppers, use the recommended plants per square foot. If you find your plants are too crowded you can transplant while they are still small with additional space between plants.
Support: No. Though staking isn't usually needed, it is sometimes helpful to keep the plants upright and to keep fruit off the ground. If your plants start to lean you should put in a sturdy stake several inches away from stem.
Water Needs: Moderate. Pepper plants are somewhat drought tolerant (especially Hot Peppers), but lack of water can affect fruiting, so they should be kept moist for best production. Drip irrigation works well with Peppers. Sweet Peppers are particularly vulnerable to water stress when fruiting, so keep the soil evenly moist. If not given enough water, the fruits can develop a slightly bitter flavor (and may get Blossom End Rot). Don't leave water on the leaves overnight as this encourages disease.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Low nitrogen. High potassium. High phosphorus. Peppers are fairly hungry plants and require lots of phosphorus and potassium, but not too much nitrogen (which may result in big vigorous plants, but few fruits).
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Compost tea, 2 cup(s) per plant, after transplanting, every 3 weeks. It’s a good idea to feed the plants with compost tea or liquid kelp, after they have recovered from transplanting. After that, give the plants a regular feeding of compost tea every 3 weeks, and be sure to do so when flowering and producing fruit.
Pruning, when 6" tall: when 6" tall, 1 time. Some gardeners pinch out the growing tip when the plant is about 6" tall to encourage bushy, branching growth.
Watering, before flowering: Water, 3 quart(s), before flowering, 2 times a week. The plants should be given all the water they need on a regular basis. This means checking the soil every few days and watering until it is thoroughly moist. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 1" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, at flowering: Mulch, 2 inch(es), at flowering, 1 time. Mulch is helpful to conserve moisture and to keep down weeds around these shallow rooted crops. Be aware that mulch insulates the soil, so don’t apply it until the soil is warm (65ºF to depth of 4"). Ideally wait until the plants are flowering.
Watering, after flowering: Water, 3 quart(s), after flowering, 2 times a week. The plants must never be short of water while they are flowering and producing fruit. Make sure the soil is constantly moist, as they have a greater need for water at this time.
Support: No. Though staking isn't usually needed, it is sometimes helpful to keep the plants upright and to keep fruit off the ground. If your plants start to lean you should put in a sturdy stake several inches away from stem.
Harvesting
It's useful that Peppers can be eaten while green, but unless you are very impatient it's not recommended. Their flavor and nutritive value improves markedly as they ripen, from green to golden orange.
When and How: Whole Fruit, 1-84 days after maturity
When: Hot peppers need to come to full ripemess on the vine. Wait to pick when they have reached their full mature color.
How: Harvest Peppers by cutting the fruit from the plant, leaving a short stem on the fruit. You can break them off, but there is a greater risk of damaging the plant. You can also pull the whole plant, and hang it upside down to dry the peppers.
Wear gloves when harvesting a lot of fruit, as they contain Capsaicin which is very irritating to delicate skin and mucus membranes.
Storage
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 2-3 days
For longer term storage, both sweet and hot Peppers can be chopped and frozen.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 180 days
Most Hot peppers can be dried for storage.
Storage Req: Drying
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: 360 days
Freezing Habanero Peppers
How to Dehydrate Chili Peppers
- Wash and dry your chili peppers. Choose only fresh peppers. If they show any signs of rotting, throw them away.
- Wearing gloves, remove the stems and slice the thicker peppers into rings and thinner peppers in half. Leave them whole if you prefer, but they will take much longer to dehydrate. The gloves are important when working with peppers because the oils from the peppers can burn your skin, and the pain can linger. Need help? How to Stop the Chili Pepper Burn On Your Skin.
- Place the peppers on the trays of the dehydrator. Spread them out evenly so the heat can distribute properly.
- Turn on the dehydrator at 135-140 degrees F, or whatever setting your dehydrator recmmends. NOTE: I like to place my dehydrator in the garage because it will release fumes over time and you will notice the odor. Let the dehydrator sit anywhere from 5 hours to overnight. It will very likely take longer than 5 hours, but much depends on the thickness of the pepper walls and how many peppers you're working with. I personally turn mine on when I go to bed and check it in the morning. The peppers are usually dried by morning, but if not, just leave them in longer until they are dried.
- Once they are dried, remove and store them in baggies or containes, or use as you wish. Keep them in a dark place, like your pantry, for freshness.
Preserving Habanero Peppers in Olive Oil
Remove seeds if desired, but keeping the seeds will retain much of the heat. Add the habaneros to a cleaned jar. Pour in enough olive oil to cover, and cover with a tightened lid. Be sure to make airtight. Refrigerate immediately.
This method of preservations should keep your habanero peppers for a week or longer.
Roasting Habanero Peppers
Roasting Instructions:
A simple method is to bake 20 to 30 peppers at 200 degrees for about one hour. Here is a simple recipe to follow:
- 30 habanero peppers, sliced in half
- 2 teaspoons garlic powder
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 teaspoons brown sugar
- Pinch of salt
Combine the habaneros in a large bowl with garlic, olive oil, brown sugar and salt. Toss and refrigerate at least one hour. Spread over a baking dish and bake one hour at 200 degrees, or until the habaneros shrink and shrivel to resemble raisins. Perfect for serving!
Though Peppers are mostly self-pollinated, they do cross-pollinate to some extent. To ensure purity you should just have one variety flowering at a time, or (if your garden is big enough) you should isolate them by 500 feet. You could also isolate them under row covers. Ideally you should have a minimum of 5 plants to ensure genetic variation.
Dry the seed thoroughly and store in a cool dry place. You must store Pepper seed carefully if it is to remain in good condition, ideally as close to freezing as possible, but not below.
Seed Viability in Years: 2 - 4 years
Germination Percentage: 55%
Culinary
Fruity citrus like flavor with a floral aroma, extremely hot.
Culinary Use:
Hot Peppers add more to cooking than just heat, they also have an intriguing flavor all of their own. When working with hot peppers be sure to not touch your eyes or skin because the oil from the pepper can burn or irritate your skin. They can be roasted, chopped, or used raw.
Fruit: raw or cooked. Some varieties are very hot (the chili and cayenne peppers) and are normally used as a pungent flavoring whilst milder varieties (the sweet peppers) have a very pleasant flavor with a slight sweetness and are often eaten raw in salads etc. The dried fruits of chili and cayenne peppers is ground into a powder and used as a pungent flavoring called paprika. The powder from the dried ground fruit of some cultivars is added to food as a coloring. The fruits range widely in size and shape, from a few centimeters long to more than 30 cm.
Young leaves: are said to be edible but some caution is advised. They are steamed as a potherb or added to soups and stews. The leaves contain about 4 - 6% protein.
Seed: dried, ground into a powder and used as a pepper.
Flowers: raw or cooked.
Known Hazards: Pungent-fruited peppers may cause painful irritation when used in excess, or after accidental contact with the eyes. Although no reports have been seen for this species, many plants in this family produce toxins in their leaves. The sap of the plant can cause the skin to blister.
Pickling Habanero Peppers
Simple Pickled Habanero Peppers Recipe
- 1 pound habanero peppers, sliced
- 2 cups apple cider vinegar
- 1/2 cup water
- 3 teaspoons pickling salt
- 3 tablespoons honey
- Pickling spices (we used caraway, garlic and fresh ginger)
- 6 tablespoons olive oil
- 6 8-ounce jars with lids
Cooking Directions
- Thoroughly wash your jars.
- Place about 1 tablespoon of the pickling spices in each hot, clean jar.
- Pack peppers into the jars, leaving ½” headspace.
- In a pot, combine vinegar, water, honey and pickling salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer about 5 minutes.
- Pour pickling solution into jars over peppers leaving ½” headspace.
- Add 1 tablespoon of olive oil over the top. Remove air bubbles.
- Wipe top rims clean then close the jars tight with two-piece caps.
- Process for 10 minutes in boiling water bath.
- Let set for 12-24 hours. Check seals (you can usually hear them pop!)
- Ready to eat in 3 to 4 weeks.
Medicinal
Companion Planting
Never put them next to any beans, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts or fennel.
Problems
Aphids
Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina),
Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), \Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris),
Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi),
Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata),
Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
Whiteflies
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
Big-eyed Bugs: Preys on Aphids, small Caterpillars and Caterpillar eggs, Flea beetles, Fleahoppers, Lygus bugs, Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies.
To attract Big-Eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Cutworms
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Spiders: Prey on a wide range including bed bugs, aphids, roaches, grasshoppers, cabbage looper, and fruit flies.
To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving spiders, mulch for predatory spiders.
Minute Pirate Bugs: Preys on spider mites, cabbage looper, insect eggs, caterpillars, aphids, thrips
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Damsel Bugs: Prey on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Potato Beetles, and Cabbage Worms.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
Colorado Potato beetles
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Spined Soldier Bugs: Prey on larvae of Mexican bean beetle, European corn borer, diamondback moth, corn earworm, beet armyworm, fall armyworm, cabbage looper, imported cabbageworm, Colorado potato beetle, velvetbean caterpillar, and flea beetles
To attract Spined Soldier Bugs to your garden try growing: Alfalfa, Apples, Asparagus, Beans, Celery, Cotton, Crucifers, Cucurbits, Onions, Potatoes, Soybeans, Sweet Corn and Tomatoes.
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata),
Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
Nutrition
Capsaicin is most concentrated in the placenta, but as the fruit matures it seems to spread to the seeds and fruit itself. Humans can detect this fiery chemical in concentrations as low as 1 part per million. The Sweet Peppers don't contain any capsaicin (otherwise they would be Hot Peppers).
The Health Benefits of Capsicum
Mucilage: Capsicum contains tannins. Tannins are astringent and often considered for their benefits when treating gastrointestinal disorders that produce diarrhea such as dysentery and other microbial disorders. Gastric mucilage acts to protect the gastric lining. A causative effect of peptic ulcer development is the breakdown of gastric mucilage which is causative of the ulcerations made with increased gastric acid contact with stomach lining. Capsicum works as a mucilage when ingested by increasing the production of gastric mucus. Increased gastric mucus and the anti inflammatory properties of capsicum may result in beneficial effects in the treatment of peptic ulcer disease, as many studies show. Another example of the reliability of capsicum in producing mucus that is more readily observable is that of increase nasal drainage when ingesting peppers with high concentrations of the heat producing phytochemical capsicum. Also for this reason, it is beneficial to avoid touching eyes and bodily mucus membranes during preparation of capsicum peppers and to wash hands thoroughly after preparation to avoid transferring volatile oils containing capsicum to these sensitive areas.
Chemopreventive properties: Another bioactive effect of tannin contained in capsicum molecule is in the prevention and treatment of cancer. Studies on capsicum have shown that is has a inhibitory effect on many types of malignant cancer that is well documented. These anti tumor properties are most beneficial to treating pulmonary, hepatic, and gastric cancers. The anti oxidative effects of capsicum are showing a possibility of treatment for other types of cancer, such as certain hormone related prostate cancers. The anti-cancer effect of capsicum is determined by the bioactive ability of this phyto chemical to inhibit cancerous cell growth and also causes destruction of already damaged cellular structure in the human body.
Cardiovascular: Studies of flavonoids have suggested that they are beneficial towards preventing coronary heart disease. Capsicum is both warming and vasodilative. A suggested effect of the vasodilative properties of capsicum is the improvement of hypotension and decreased heart rate. Vasodilatation allows for improved blood flow resulting in better oxygenation of organ tissues. This is most likely due to the tachynikins, a known bioactive ingredient in capsicum.
Antioxidant properties: Many of the bioactive compounds of capsicum provide antioxidant effects. Improved vasodilatation allows for these antioxidant phyto chemicals to circulate through regions of the body that may already been effected as well as healthy tissue. This allows capsicum to have a beneficial effect in repairing tissue protein’s and possibly even DNA. As well, the healthy tissue receives protection from the antioxidant effect of the capsicum chili pepper.
Hypoglycemic: With the world wide prevalence of diabetes, the consideration of capsicum as hypoglycemic medicinal has provoked research into this matter. Some studies have indicated, though not yet concluded that capsicum may stimulate insulin production which results in lower blood glucose. This would determine a possibility of capsicum to beneficial in preventing onset of type II diabetes and its potential complications. The hypoglycemic benefits of capsicum are most concentrated when the capsicum chili is green.
Immunology: Capsicum contains vitamin C is valued as an immune supportive bioactive phyto chemical. Vitamin C has many beneficial effects on the immune system. It helps in repairing damaged brain tissues, reduced risk of oxidative stress, pediatric asthma, cancer and improved bone health.
Psoriasis: Many clinical trial shown the effectiveness of Capsicum for treating symptoms of fibromyalgia when applied topically. Those using capsicum topically stated beneficial effects in reducing tenderness and improvement of sleep.
Diabetic neuropathy: A disease that often produces this type of neurogenic pain is diabetes. Capsicum is shown to have a beneficial effect on diabetic neuropathic pain when applied topically. Capsicum works to deaden cutaneous nerve endings and reducing the pain.
Fibromyalgia: Many clinical trial shown the effectiveness of Capsicum for treating symptoms of fibromyalgia when applied topically.
Skin and aging: Vitamins in the capsicum chili pepper are shown to have an antioxidant effect on cell tissue which may improve skin and aging.
Menopausal symptoms: Menopausal symptoms may also be relieved by the consumption of flavonoid containing fruit such as the capsicum chili.
Suggested Varieties
Amaranth: Love Lies Bleeding (Heirloom) (Amaranthus caudatus)
Amaranth: Perfecta (Heirloom) (Amaranthus Tricolor 'Perfecta')
Amaranth: Red Garnet (Heirloom) (Amaranthus tricolor)
Balm: Lemon (Melissa officinalis)
Basil: Cinnamon (Ocimum basilicum)
Cinnamon Basil is a Mexican cultivar with decorative, purple-flushed foliage, light pink flower spikes and a distinctive cinnamon-like aroma! Use fresh or dried leaves in your cooking! Popular for use in herbal tea and potpourri! Attractive foliage and blooms also make this a valuable ornamental addition to your herb garden! Full size plants range from 18-30" tall by 12-18" in width. Average water needs.
Basil: Clove Scented (Ocimum basilicum)
Basil: Italian Large Leaf (Ocimum basilicum)
Basil: Lemon (Ocimum basilicum)
Basil: Lime (Ocimum basilicum)
Basil: Purple Ruffles (Ocimum basilicum)
Basil: Spicy Bush (Ocimum basilicum var. minimum)
Basil: Sweet (Ocimum basilicum)
Bergamot: Wild (Monarda fistulosa)
Caraway (Carum carvi)
Carrots: Chantenay Red Cored (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Cosmic Purple (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Danvers (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Rainbow Blend (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Scarlet Nantes (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Tendersweet (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Celery: Tendercrisp (Heirloom) (Apium graveolens var. dulce)
Celery: Utah Tall 52/70 (Heirloom) (Apium graveolens var. dulce)
Chives: Garlic (Allium tuberosum)
Chives: Onion (Allium schoenoprasum var. album)
Clover: Crimson (Trifolium incarnatum)
Clover: Purple Prairie (Dalea purpurea)
Coriander: Leisure (Coriandrum sativum)
Corn: Country Gentleman-Open Pollinated (Heirloom) (Zea mays)
Corn: Golden Bantam-Open Pollinated (Heirloom) (Zea mays)
Corn, Popcorn: Shaman's Blue (Hybrid) Open Pollinated (Zea mays)
Blue corn originated in the Andes Mountains of Peru, where the native peoples usually ground it into flour for cooking. Indians of Mexico and the southwestern United States also widely used this corn, since its dryness made it an excellent flour corn and gave it good resistance to disease. This exciting blue popcorn receives high marks for both visual and taste appeal. The unique blue/purple kernel pops into mounds of snow white popcorn that will satisfy any popcorn lover with its slightly sweet flavor.
Corn, Popcorn: South American Yellow (Zea mays)
According to evidence found by archaeologists on the northern coast of Peru, popcorn was a staple in the ancient civilizations of South America. Popcorn also grew above the border, and it once occupied a space in nearly every American garden. At the beginning of the twentieth century, 52 varieties of popcorn were offered by the seed catalogs of the time. A wise choice for popcorn lovers! This prolific variety bears 2-3, 6-9 inch ears per plant. When popped, the large yellow kernels produce a buttery tasting popcorn.
Corn, Popcorn: Strawberry Red (Zea Mays)
Although it's exact origin is unknown, it is believed that Strawberry Red Popcorn was domesticated by the Olmec and the Mayans. Not only is this amazing variety edible, but it is just as decorative. Each plant grows to 5-6' and bares two or so 2-3" strawberry shaped ears that are covered with brilliant burgundy kernels! Your mind will be blown as you watch the red kernels pop into white popcorn with in the blink of eye!
Cosmos: Bright Lights (Cosmos sulphureus)
Cosmos: Candy Stripe (Cosmos bipinnatus)
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Cosmos: Radiance (Cosmos bipinnatus)
Cucumber: Lemon (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: Marketmore 76' (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: Mexican Sour Gherkin (Heirloom) (Melothria scabra)
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Cucumber: National Pickling (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: Straight Eight (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: Sumter (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: White Wonder (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
This high yielding ivory white cucumber variety was introduced into the U.S. and first offered by Burpee Seed Company in 1893. White Wonder Cucumbers are delicious raw, in salads, or pickled.
Cucumber: Wisconsin SMR 58 (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Dill: Dukat (Anethum graveolens)
Eggplant: Black Beauty (Heirloom) (Solanum melongena var. esculentum)
Eggplants date back to medieval times where they were called mad apples. A staple of regions of Asia, known as the "king of vegetables". Eggplant comes in all shapes colors and sizes. Black Beauty is one of the earliest and dates back to the early 1900's.
Eggplant: Golden Egg (Solanum Melongena)
Ornamental Eggplant is a very unique tropical annual that produce purple flowers and egg-shaped, edible fruit that begin white and turn golden upon maturity. Excellent choices for pots and containers, ornamental hedge, or house plant.
Eggplant: Long Purple (Heirloom) (Solanum melongena)
This Italian heirloom eggplant, Long Purple, produces dark purple cucumber-shaped fruit with firm, mild flesh. Good yields, especially in northern climates! Plants will typically produce 4 or more 8-10" fruits with harvest beginning in 70 to 80 days. Average water needs. Some parts of plant are poisonous if ingested.
English Marigold (Calendula officinalis)
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Marigolds: Naughty Marietta (Tagetes patula)
Marigolds: Sparky Mix French (Tagetes patula)
Marigold: White (Tagetes Erecta 'Kilimanjaro')
Commonly called African marigold, Aztec marigold, American marigold or big marigold, is native to Mexico and Central America. Big marigold may be the best descriptive name because plants are noted for their large flowerheads. They typically grow from 1-4’ tall and feature huge, mostly double-globular flowers (2-4” diameter) in various shades of yellow, orange, and whitish. This variety is unaffected by high summer heat and generally blooms throughout the summer.
Milkweed: Blood Flower (Asclepias curassavica)
Milkweed: Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa)
Milkweed: Common (Asclepias syriaca)
Milkweed: Showy (Asclepias speciosa)
Milkweed: Swamp (Asclepias incarnata)
As the name indicates, these swamp milkweed seeds for sale thrive in swamps and low meadows or along streams. The bright pink flowers attract swarms of bees and butterflies, and have a sweet scent described as similar to vanilla or cinnamon. At one time, the silk from swamp milkweed seed pods was spun for fabric or used for stuffing pillows; in World War II, school children gathered the silk to provide a cheap filling for soldiers' life jackets. Commercial attempts to make use of this abundant plant included the manufacture of paper, fabric, lubricant, fuel, and rubber; eventually these became impractical and were abandoned. Though this plant is toxic to most animals, butterflies are immune to the plant's poison and actually become rather poisonous themselves as protection from predators.
Nasturtiums: Empress of India (Tropaeolum minus)
Nasturtiums: Jewel Mix (Tropaeolum minus)
Okra: Clemson Spineless (Heirloom) (Abelmoschus esculentus)
Okra: Red Burgundy (Heirloom) (Abelmoschus esculentus)
Onions: Evergreen White Bunching (Heirlooms) (Allium fistulosum)
Onions: Ruby Red (Heirloom) (Allium cepa)
Onions: Sweet Spanish White (Heirloom) (Allium cepa)
Onion: Sweet Spanish Yellow (Heirloom) (Allium cepa)
Oregano: Greek (Origanum vulgare hirtum)
Oregano: Italian (Origanum vulgare)
Italian Oregano is a very popular "pizza herb" widely used in Italian, Greek and Mexican cooking. Leaves can be used fresh or dried and add warm spicy flavor to your favorite recipes! Bright blue-green plants grow 6" tall and up to 24" in diameter. Leaves can be harvested in 85 to 95 days (before flowers appear). Perennial. Drought tolerant.
Parsley: Hamburg Rooted (Heirloom) (Petroselinum crispum var. tuberosum)
Parsley: Italian Giant (Heirloom) (Petroselinum crispum var. neapolitanum)
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Penstemon: Rocky Mountain (Penstemon strictus)
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Poached Egg Plant (Limnanthes douglasii)
This native species was first discovered by David Douglas, a Scottish botanist commissioned to collect native American plants suitable for the gardens of Great Britain. The species name "douglasii" honors his discovery, while the genus name "Limnanthes" means "marsh flower" because of this plant's preference for moist soil. This fragrant butterfly magnet has been awarded the Royal Horticultural Society's prestigious Award of Garden Merit.