Pepper, Hot: Habanero (Heirloom) (Capsicum chinense)

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Though this greatest quantities of Habanero peppers are now grown in the Yucatan in Mexico, they once played an important part in the industry of "La Habana," or Havana, from which they receive their name. Habanero peppers spread so far so quickly that they also became called Chinese peppers, since some believed that was their place of origin. Habanero peppers are the hottest open pollinated pepper available.

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General Information
Soil Preperation & Start Indoors
Transplant Outdoors
Crop Care
Harvesting & Storage
Seed Saving
Culinary & Medicinal
Companion Planting
Nutrition & Health Benefits

Scientific Name: Capsicum chinense

Also Known As: Chinese Pepper.

Ease of Growing: Moderate

Grown as: Annual

Days to Maturity: 90 days

Growing Habit: Bush

Hardiness: Very Tender. Very tender, they can't stand cold weather or frost.

Crops: Spring Transplant

Growing Season: Long

Growing Conditions: Warm, Hot. Peppers originated in the tropical highlands of Central and South America and grow best with warm (70 to 80˚ F) days, cool (55 to 65˚ F) nights and high humidity. If the soil gets above 85˚ F you can cool the soil by applying mulch and watering frequently with cold water.

Outdoor Growing Temp: 60°F - 95°F

Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 65°F. The soil must be warm (at least 65° F). If necessary you could use black plastic mulch to hasten warming.

Start Indoors: Yes

Start Outdoors: No

Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Warm, Hot). Full sun. In very hot climates they may benefit from light shade.

Water: Moderate. Pepper plants are somewhat drought tolerant (especially Hot Peppers), but lack of water can affect fruiting, so they should be kept moist for best production. Drip irrigation works well with Peppers. Sweet Peppers are particularly vulnerable to water stress when fruiting, so keep the soil evenly moist. If not given enough water, the fruits can develop a slightly bitter flavor (and may get Blossom End Rot). Don't leave water on the leaves overnight as this encourages disease.

Feeder: Heavy. Low nitrogen. High potassium. High phosphorus. Peppers are fairly hungry plants and require lots of phosphorus and potassium, but not too much nitrogen (which may result in big vigorous plants, but few fruits).

Suitability: Needs summer shade

Small Gardens?: Yes.

Containers?: Yes, but will need a large one, like a half wine barrel. Choose a container at least 16" in diameter. A container with drainage holes is a necessity in order to successfully grow peppers. Cover the holes with weed cloth, newspaper or any other similar material and then fill with potting soil. Peppers love warm weather and will not thrive if temperatures are either too cold or too hot. Place peppers in full sun in warm climates, but be sure they have access to shade in hot temperatures. Keep well-watered. Stake to keep fruit off the ground, mulch for disease and weed control.

Attracts beneficial insects?: No

Maintenance: Medium

Height: 24-36"

Spacing: 12-18"

Sow Depth: 1/4"

Hardiness Zone: 4-12

Produces: extremely hot 1-2" peppers that mature from green to orange to red.

Scoville Heat Units: 250,000-350,000

Soil Preparation

Soil Preparation:
Black plastic, 1 layer, to warm soil, 1 time: OPTIONAL: The soil must be warm (at least 65˚ F) before these tender plants are set out. If necessary, you could use black plastic mulch to hasten warming. You can also make slits in the plastic for planting and leave the the mulch there to keep the soil warm, moist and weed free while growing the peppers.

Standard Mix, 1 cup per plant, after planting, 1 time: Standard mix will supply additional potassium, phosphorous and other nutrients. It should be incorporated into the the planting hole along with the compost. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:

4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)

Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.

Compost (Nitrogen), 2 cups per plant, after planting, 1 time: Add 2 cups of compost or aged manure into the planting hole (along with the Standard Mix).

Starts Indoors

Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and 1/2" deep in warm soil.

Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 95°F, optimal 65°F to 90°F, optimal 85°F

Total weeks to grow transplant: 10 to 10 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)

Germinate: 6-8 weeks before last frost date. Peppers need to be started early because they are slow to get going. They are generally one of the last crops to be planted out in late spring, a couple of weeks after Tomatoes (4 weeks after the last frost). Peppers are one of the hardest of the common vegetable crops to raise successfully from seed, as they need quite warm temperatures for fastest growth. Pepper seeds germinate best at a temperature of 85˚ F, which is higher than almost any common crop.

1. Soaking the seed overnight is said to help by removing germination inhibitors and so may speed germination. It is sometimes recommended that before planting you soak the seeds in a 10% bleach solution, for 10 minutes, to kill any disease spores (it should then be rinsed to remove the bleach). It is said that this treatment may also speed germination by several days.
2. Plant the seeds in a flat (they don’t mind transplanting) or in cell packs or soil blocks.
3. It is a good idea to water them with tepid water to avoid cooling them.

Harden Off: 2-3 weeks after last frost date. If you are planting Peppers out in cool spring conditions, they should be hardened off carefully. Do this slowly over a week, by reducing the amount of water they get and by leaving them outside for longer periods each day. This helps them to get accustomed to the somewhat less than ideal conditions to be found outside. In warm summer weather there is no need to harden them off. However you may want to keep them outside in the shade for a few days, so they don’t get sunburned when planted out.

4 weeks after last frost date:
1. Good transplants should be about 6˝ tall when they go outside.
2. The soil must be warm (at least 65˚ F) before these tender plants are set out.

Warm, Hot: Peppers originated in the tropical highlands of Central and South America and grow best with warm (70 to 80˚ F) days, cool (55 to 65˚ F) nights and high humidity. If the soil gets above 85˚ F you can cool the soil by applying mulch and watering frequently with cold water.

When outdoor temp: 60°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 85°F

When min soil temp: 65°F. The soil must be warm (at least 65° F). If necessary you could use black plastic mulch to hasten warming.

Spacing: 10-12", 1 plants per sq ft. Intensive: Space Peppers 8" apart.

Rows: Space the plants 10 to 12" apart, with 24" between the rows. Depending on the variety of peppers, use the recommended plants per square foot. If you find your plants are too crowded you can transplant while they are still small with additional space between plants.

Support: No. Though staking isn't usually needed, it is sometimes helpful to keep the plants upright and to keep fruit off the ground. If your plants start to lean you should put in a sturdy stake several inches away from stem.

All Peppers like a warm, sunny and sheltered spot. They originated in the tropical highlands of Central and South America and grow best with warm (70 to 80˚ F) days, cool (55 to 70˚ F) nights and high humidity.

Water Needs: Moderate. Pepper plants are somewhat drought tolerant (especially Hot Peppers), but lack of water can affect fruiting, so they should be kept moist for best production. Drip irrigation works well with Peppers. Sweet Peppers are particularly vulnerable to water stress when fruiting, so keep the soil evenly moist. If not given enough water, the fruits can develop a slightly bitter flavor (and may get Blossom End Rot). Don't leave water on the leaves overnight as this encourages disease.

Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Low nitrogen. High potassium. High phosphorus. Peppers are fairly hungry plants and require lots of phosphorus and potassium, but not too much nitrogen (which may result in big vigorous plants, but few fruits).

Side Dressing, after transplanting: Compost tea, 2 cup(s) per plant, after transplanting, every 3 weeks. It’s a good idea to feed the plants with compost tea or liquid kelp, after they have recovered from transplanting. After that, give the plants a regular feeding of compost tea every 3 weeks, and be sure to do so when flowering and producing fruit.

Pruning, when 6" tall: when 6" tall, 1 time. Some gardeners pinch out the growing tip when the plant is about 6" tall to encourage bushy, branching growth.

Watering, before flowering: Water, 3 quart(s), before flowering, 2 times a week. The plants should be given all the water they need on a regular basis. This means checking the soil every few days and watering until it is thoroughly moist. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 1" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.

Side Dressing, at flowering: Mulch, 2 inch(es), at flowering, 1 time. Mulch is helpful to conserve moisture and to keep down weeds around these shallow rooted crops. Be aware that mulch insulates the soil, so don’t apply it until the soil is warm (65ºF to depth of 4"). Ideally wait until the plants are flowering.

Watering, after flowering: Water, 3 quart(s), after flowering, 2 times a week. The plants must never be short of water while they are flowering and producing fruit. Make sure the soil is constantly moist, as they have a greater need for water at this time.

Support: No. Though staking isn't usually needed, it is sometimes helpful to keep the plants upright and to keep fruit off the ground. If your plants start to lean you should put in a sturdy stake several inches away from stem.

Harvesting

Ripening:
It's useful that Peppers can be eaten while green, but unless you are very impatient it's not recommended. Their flavor and nutritive value improves markedly as they ripen, from green to golden orange.

When and How: Whole Fruit, 1-84 days after maturity

When: Hot peppers need to come to full ripemess on the vine. Wait to pick when they have reached their full mature color.

How: Harvest Peppers by cutting the fruit from the plant, leaving a short stem on the fruit. You can break them off, but there is a greater risk of damaging the plant. You can also pull the whole plant, and hang it upside down to dry the peppers.

Wear gloves when harvesting a lot of fruit, as they contain Capsaicin which is very irritating to delicate skin and mucus membranes.

Storage

Sweet Peppers can be stored in a plastic bag in the fridge for several days.

Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 2-3 days

For longer term storage, both sweet and hot Peppers can be chopped and frozen.

Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 180 days

Most Hot peppers can be dried for storage.

Storage Req: Drying
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: 360 days

Freezing Habanero Peppers

Freezing habanero peppers is probably one of the easiest ways to preserve your crop. You don't have to cook your chili peppers before freezing, although you can skin/peel them if desired. Just keep in mind that after you thaw them, the skins usually come right off easily. Simply wash the habaneros, dry them thoroughly, drop them into a ziplock baggie, and set them in the freezer in 2 lb bags. Alternatively, you can wrap the habaneros in tinfoil instead of using plastic baggies. We spoke with our grandma who has been preserving chili peppers for longer than we've been alive, and she said she prefers tinfoil.

How to Dehydrate Chili Peppers

Wash and dry your chili peppers. Choose only fresh peppers. If they show any signs of rotting, throw them away.
Wearing gloves, remove the stems and slice the thicker peppers into rings and thinner peppers in half. Leave them whole if you prefer, but they will take much longer to dehydrate. The gloves are important when working with peppers because the oils from the peppers can burn your skin, and the pain can linger. Need help? How to Stop the Chili Pepper Burn On Your Skin.
Place the peppers on the trays of the dehydrator. Spread them out evenly so the heat can distribute properly.
Turn on the dehydrator at 135-140 degrees F, or whatever setting your dehydrator recmmends. NOTE: I like to place my dehydrator in the garage because it will release fumes over time and you will notice the odor. Let the dehydrator sit anywhere from 5 hours to overnight. It will very likely take longer than 5 hours, but much depends on the thickness of the pepper walls and how many peppers you're working with. I personally turn mine on when I go to bed and check it in the morning. The peppers are usually dried by morning, but if not, just leave them in longer until they are dried.
Once they are dried, remove and store them in baggies or containes, or use as you wish. Keep them in a dark place, like your pantry, for freshness.

Preserving Habanero Peppers in Olive Oil

Clean your habaneros thoroughly and dry. Roast the habanero peppers in a broiler or on a grill over medium heat until the skins are bubbly and blackened. Be sure not to overcook. Slice the habaneros into small strips.

Remove seeds if desired, but keeping the seeds will retain much of the heat. Add the habaneros to a cleaned jar. Pour in enough olive oil to cover, and cover with a tightened lid. Be sure to make airtight. Refrigerate immediately.

This method of preservations should keep your habanero peppers for a week or longer.

Roasting Habanero Peppers

Roasted habaneros are a great way to add to dishes. Just toss them into anything requiring some spicy kick, such as salads, stews, soups, even sprinkled over main dishes. Roasting is also a great way to preserve the peppers. Simple roast or bake them, then store in airtight containers or in vinegar.

Roasting Instructions:
A simple method is to bake 20 to 30 peppers at 200 degrees for about one hour. Here is a simple recipe to follow:

30 habanero peppers, sliced in half
2 teaspoons garlic powder
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons brown sugar
Pinch of salt

Combine the habaneros in a large bowl with garlic, olive oil, brown sugar and salt. Toss and refrigerate at least one hour. Spread over a baking dish and bake one hour at 200 degrees, or until the habaneros shrink and shrivel to resemble raisins. Perfect for serving!

It's easy to save Pepper seed (so long as it is open pollinated and not a hybrid), just allow the fruits to ripen fully, then scrape out the seeds from the fruit before you eat it. Even the seed from green fruits may be viable, if not as good. Wear gloves when collecting seeds from hot peppers.

Though Peppers are mostly self-pollinated, they do cross-pollinate to some extent. To ensure purity you should just have one variety flowering at a time, or (if your garden is big enough) you should isolate them by 500 feet. You could also isolate them under row covers. Ideally you should have a minimum of 5 plants to ensure genetic variation.

Dry the seed thoroughly and store in a cool dry place. You must store Pepper seed carefully if it is to remain in good condition, ideally as close to freezing as possible, but not below.

Seed Viability in Years: 2 - 4 years
Germination Percentage: 55%

Culinary

Taste:
Fruity citrus like flavor with a floral aroma, extremely hot.

Culinary Use:
Hot Peppers add more to cooking than just heat, they also have an intriguing flavor all of their own. When working with hot peppers be sure to not touch your eyes or skin because the oil from the pepper can burn or irritate your skin. They can be roasted, chopped, or used raw.

Fruit: raw or cooked. Some varieties are very hot (the chili and cayenne peppers) and are normally used as a pungent flavoring whilst milder varieties (the sweet peppers) have a very pleasant flavor with a slight sweetness and are often eaten raw in salads etc. The dried fruits of chili and cayenne peppers is ground into a powder and used as a pungent flavoring called paprika. The powder from the dried ground fruit of some cultivars is added to food as a coloring. The fruits range widely in size and shape, from a few centimeters long to more than 30 cm.

Young leaves: are said to be edible but some caution is advised. They are steamed as a potherb or added to soups and stews. The leaves contain about 4 - 6% protein.

Seed: dried, ground into a powder and used as a pepper.

Flowers: raw or cooked.

Known Hazards: Pungent-fruited peppers may cause painful irritation when used in excess, or after accidental contact with the eyes. Although no reports have been seen for this species, many plants in this family produce toxins in their leaves. The sap of the plant can cause the skin to blister.

Pickling Habanero Peppers

This shouldn't take you more than an hour to set up. The honey will make them a bit sweet. We used jalapeno peppers, Serrano peppers (both red and green), and cayenne peppers this time around, but you can add in other types of chili peppers. We also added in carrots for additional color and flavor, but they are not required.

Simple Pickled Habanero Peppers Recipe

1 pound habanero peppers, sliced
2 cups apple cider vinegar
1/2 cup water
3 teaspoons pickling salt
3 tablespoons honey
Pickling spices (we used caraway, garlic and fresh ginger)
6 tablespoons olive oil
6 8-ounce jars with lids

Cooking Directions

Thoroughly wash your jars.
Place about 1 tablespoon of the pickling spices in each hot, clean jar.
Pack peppers into the jars, leaving ½” headspace.
In a pot, combine vinegar, water, honey and pickling salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer about 5 minutes.
Pour pickling solution into jars over peppers leaving ½” headspace.
Add 1 tablespoon of olive oil over the top. Remove air bubbles.
Wipe top rims clean then close the jars tight with two-piece caps.
Process for 10 minutes in boiling water bath.
Let set for 12-24 hours. Check seals (you can usually hear them pop!)
Ready to eat in 3 to 4 weeks.

Medicinal

The fruit of the hot, pungent cultivars is anti-hemorrhoidal when taken in small amounts, anti-rheumatic, antiseptic, diaphoretic, digestive, irritant, rubefacient, sialagogue and tonic. It is taken internally in the treatment of the cold stage of fevers, debility in convalescence or old age, varicose veins, asthma and digestive problems. Externally it is used in the treatment of sprains, unbroken chilblains, neuralgia, pleurisy etc. It is an effective sea-sickness preventative.

Source

Project Purity Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.

Companion Planting

Chili peppers have root exudates that prevent root rot and other Fusarium diseases. Plant anywhere you have these problems. While you should always plant chili peppers close together, providing shelter from the sun with other plants will help keep them from drying out and provide more humidity. Tomato plants, green peppers, and okra are good protection for them. Teas made from hot peppers can be useful as insect sprays. Hot peppers like to be grouped with cucumbers, eggplant, escarole, tomato, okra, Swiss chard and squash. Herbs to plant near them include: basil, oregano, parsley and rosemary.

Never put them next to any beans, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts or fennel.

Problems

Potential pests include aphids, white flies, cutworms, and Colorado potato beetles. Diseases include Verticillium wilt and mosaic virus.

Aphids

Beneficial insects such as Ladybugs, Collops Beetle, Soldier Beetles, Long-legged Flies, Hover Flies, Predaceous Midges, Damsel Bugs, Big-eyed Bugs, Minute Pirate Bugs, Lacewings, Parasitic Wasps,
Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.

Ladybeetles, Ladybugs, or Ladybird Beetles: Ladybeetles are probably the most well-known of beetles that eat aphids. There are many species, and both the adults and larvae eat aphids. Convergent lady beetles and the seven-spotted ladybeetles are abundant species in the environment. Eggs are found in clutches, yellow and football shaped. Larvae have an alligator-like appearance, and are black with orange markings. Pupae are sedentary. Ladybeetles are commercially available but purchasing is not generally recommended since the adult stage tends to fly away once released. Introductions may be more effective in greenhouses and high tunnels. Diverse plantings can help recruit resident ladybeetles to an area.

To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.

Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.

Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.

Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.

Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.

Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.

To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea ﬁlipendulina),
Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), \Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris),
Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa ofﬁcinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda ﬁstulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys ofﬁcinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).

Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.

Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.

To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.

To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.

To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi),
Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.

To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea ﬁlipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata),
Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Prairie sunﬂower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum ofﬁcinale).

Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.

Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.

Whiteflies

Beneficial insects such as ladybugs, green lacewings, and big-eyed bugs all prey on whiteflies.

Cutworms

Beneficial insects such as Ground Beetles, Tachinid Flies, Braconid Wasps, Spiders, Minute Pirate Bugs, Damsel Bugs, Lacewing Larvae, and Birds all prey on Cutworms.

Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.

To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.

Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.

To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.

Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.

To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.

Spiders: Prey on a wide range including bed bugs, aphids, roaches, grasshoppers, cabbage looper, and fruit flies.

To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving spiders, mulch for predatory spiders.

Minute Pirate Bugs: Preys on spider mites, cabbage looper, insect eggs, caterpillars, aphids, thrips

To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Damsel Bugs: Prey on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Potato Beetles, and Cabbage Worms.

To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.

To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.

Colorado Potato beetles

Beneficial insects such as ladybugs, spined soldier bugs, lacewing, and several species of tiny parasitic wasps all prey on Colorado Potato Beetles.

Ladybug: Preys on Aphids, Cabbage loopers, Leafhoppers, Whitefly, Spider mites, Fleas, Mealybug, and Colorado potato beetles.

To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.

Spined Soldier Bugs: Prey on larvae of Mexican bean beetle, European corn borer, diamondback moth, corn earworm, beet armyworm, fall armyworm, cabbage looper, imported cabbageworm, Colorado potato beetle, velvetbean caterpillar, and flea beetles

To attract Spined Soldier Bugs to your garden try growing: Alfalfa, Apples, Asparagus, Beans, Celery, Cotton, Crucifers, Cucurbits, Onions, Potatoes, Soybeans, Sweet Corn and Tomatoes.

Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.

To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea ﬁlipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata),
Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Prairie sunﬂower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum ofﬁcinale).

Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.

Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.

Nutrition

Peppers contain vitamin C and A (Beta carotene) as well as some important detoxifying phytochemicals, including, lutein, zeaxanthin and capsaicin (the chemical that puts the Hot in Peppers).

Capsaicin is most concentrated in the placenta, but as the fruit matures it seems to spread to the seeds and fruit itself. Humans can detect this fiery chemical in concentrations as low as 1 part per million. The Sweet Peppers don't contain any capsaicin (otherwise they would be Hot Peppers).

The Health Benefits of Capsicum

Anti-inflammatory properties: The phytochemical constituents of capsicum are shown to produce an anti inflammatory response that proves to alleviate peripheral neurogenic pain such as related to Crohn’s disease, an inflammatory disease of the bowel. Another example of peripheral neurogenic inflammation is cutaneous pain of the skin. Capsicum creams and balms are often massaged topically onto the skin with care taken to avoid open areas and mucous membranes. The burning effect of capsicum is felt when applied to the skin. This is caused by an inflammatory response of the peripheral nerve endings, but regular application deadens the sensory nerve endings which relieve chronic diabetic neurogenic pain. Some suggest that the anti inflammatory effect of capsicum may also help to alleviate pain related to arthritis. Capsicum cream may be utilized as an option for treating this malady and many others .

Mucilage: Capsicum contains tannins. Tannins are astringent and often considered for their benefits when treating gastrointestinal disorders that produce diarrhea such as dysentery and other microbial disorders. Gastric mucilage acts to protect the gastric lining. A causative effect of peptic ulcer development is the breakdown of gastric mucilage which is causative of the ulcerations made with increased gastric acid contact with stomach lining. Capsicum works as a mucilage when ingested by increasing the production of gastric mucus. Increased gastric mucus and the anti inflammatory properties of capsicum may result in beneficial effects in the treatment of peptic ulcer disease, as many studies show. Another example of the reliability of capsicum in producing mucus that is more readily observable is that of increase nasal drainage when ingesting peppers with high concentrations of the heat producing phytochemical capsicum. Also for this reason, it is beneficial to avoid touching eyes and bodily mucus membranes during preparation of capsicum peppers and to wash hands thoroughly after preparation to avoid transferring volatile oils containing capsicum to these sensitive areas.

Chemopreventive properties: Another bioactive effect of tannin contained in capsicum molecule is in the prevention and treatment of cancer. Studies on capsicum have shown that is has a inhibitory effect on many types of malignant cancer that is well documented. These anti tumor properties are most beneficial to treating pulmonary, hepatic, and gastric cancers. The anti oxidative effects of capsicum are showing a possibility of treatment for other types of cancer, such as certain hormone related prostate cancers. The anti-cancer effect of capsicum is determined by the bioactive ability of this phyto chemical to inhibit cancerous cell growth and also causes destruction of already damaged cellular structure in the human body.

Cardiovascular: Studies of flavonoids have suggested that they are beneficial towards preventing coronary heart disease. Capsicum is both warming and vasodilative. A suggested effect of the vasodilative properties of capsicum is the improvement of hypotension and decreased heart rate. Vasodilatation allows for improved blood flow resulting in better oxygenation of organ tissues. This is most likely due to the tachynikins, a known bioactive ingredient in capsicum.

Antioxidant properties: Many of the bioactive compounds of capsicum provide antioxidant effects. Improved vasodilatation allows for these antioxidant phyto chemicals to circulate through regions of the body that may already been effected as well as healthy tissue. This allows capsicum to have a beneficial effect in repairing tissue protein’s and possibly even DNA. As well, the healthy tissue receives protection from the antioxidant effect of the capsicum chili pepper.

Hypoglycemic: With the world wide prevalence of diabetes, the consideration of capsicum as hypoglycemic medicinal has provoked research into this matter. Some studies have indicated, though not yet concluded that capsicum may stimulate insulin production which results in lower blood glucose. This would determine a possibility of capsicum to beneficial in preventing onset of type II diabetes and its potential complications. The hypoglycemic benefits of capsicum are most concentrated when the capsicum chili is green.

Immunology: Capsicum contains vitamin C is valued as an immune supportive bioactive phyto chemical. Vitamin C has many beneficial effects on the immune system. It helps in repairing damaged brain tissues, reduced risk of oxidative stress, pediatric asthma, cancer and improved bone health.

Psoriasis: Many clinical trial shown the effectiveness of Capsicum for treating symptoms of fibromyalgia when applied topically. Those using capsicum topically stated beneficial effects in reducing tenderness and improvement of sleep.

Diabetic neuropathy: A disease that often produces this type of neurogenic pain is diabetes. Capsicum is shown to have a beneficial effect on diabetic neuropathic pain when applied topically. Capsicum works to deaden cutaneous nerve endings and reducing the pain.

Fibromyalgia: Many clinical trial shown the effectiveness of Capsicum for treating symptoms of fibromyalgia when applied topically.

Skin and aging: Vitamins in the capsicum chili pepper are shown to have an antioxidant effect on cell tissue which may improve skin and aging.

Menopausal symptoms: Menopausal symptoms may also be relieved by the consumption of flavonoid containing fruit such as the capsicum chili.

Source

Suggested varieties

Amaranth: Love Lies Bleeding (Heirloom) (Amaranthus caudatus)

$1.00 - $5.60

As a decorative flower, Love-Lies-Bleeding grew in many Victorian English gardens; in the language of flowers, it represents hopeless love. In addition to producing lovely flowers, Love-Lies-Bleeding is a form of the grain-producing plant known as amaranth. A staple grain for the Aztecs and Incas, amaranth was referred to as the "golden grain of the gods" and used in religious rituals. The plant nearly died out when the Spanish Conquistadors declared their religious practices barbaric, and made growing amaranth a capital offense. Today, both the leaves and the seeds of amaranth are an important food source in many parts of the world. This unique grain provides an impressive amount of vitamins and minerals, as well as being very rich in protein.