Beets: Golden Detroit (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris)
Beets seem to have originated in the Mediterranean region, where people grew them for thousands of years. Later, beets grew in Germany and Holland and were used as cattle fodder; they were later imported to England for this purpose, but the poor began to raise them for an affordable food source. American colonists later brought them to the New World, where they became a commonly enjoyed food both for their roots and their greens. According to historians, George Washington experimented with beets, cross-pollinating them to create new varieties.
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General Information
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Soil Preparation & Start Indoors
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Transplant Outdoors & Start Outdoors
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Crop Care
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Harvesting & Storage
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Seed Saving
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Culinary & Medicinal
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Companion Planting
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Nutrition & Health Benefits
Also Known As: Formanova or Butter-Slicer
Ease of Growing: Easy
Grown as: Biennial
Days to Maturity: 55 days
Hardiness: Hardy. Beets can be frost tolerant and are a good winter crop for milder areas. Beets are hardy, and can be grown year-round under the proper circumstances.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Spring, Fall
Growing Season: Short, Long
Cultivar Type: Early
Growing Conditions: Cold, Cool. Beets are quite fast growing, taking 50 to 80 days to maturity. They like cool weather and grow best with warm days (60 to 70 F) and cool nights. In most of the United States this means growing them as a spring or fall crop. They grow well enough in warm weather, but the high temperatures can cause the roots to be tough, unevenly colored (zoned), somewhat bitter (or lacking sweetness) and generally of lesser quality.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 50°F - 80°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 50°F. Beets can germinate in cold (40 degree) soil, but they are very slow. They germinate best at 70 degrees.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Full Sun to Part Shade. Min. 6 hours daily (Cool). The plants need full sun for best growth, especially when they are growing as a fall or winter crop.
Water: Medium. Consistent watering is essential for good root production. Beets grown without sufficient water may have tough, woody roots and show concentric whitish zoning. They may also bolt prematurely. Too much water may result in bushy, luxuriant tops and small roots. Irregular watering may cause splitting.
Soil Moisture: Medium. Moist, fertile, organically rich, light to sandy, well-drained soils.
Feeder: Moderate. Beets aren't very hungry plants, though they do like phosphorus and potassium.
Suitability: Tolerates light frost, Needs summer shade
Small Gardens?: Yes
Containers?: Yes. Beets can be grown in containers, though they aren't as productive as when grown in the ground. You will need a container that is a minimum of 12 inches deep and 8 inches in diameter. Fill the container with either soilless potting mix (compost, perlite and coco-fiber) or a mixture of compost and standard potting soil. Sow the seeds 1/2 inch deep and 1 inch apart (do not overcrowd, as this will stunt the root growth.) Water regularly, taking care not to over-saturate the soil. Keep the soil moist but not soaked. Lightly fertilize after about 2-3 weeks of growth. Beets are extremely hardy, and can be grown year-round under the proper circumstances.
Attracts Beneficial Insects?: No
Maintenance: Low
Forage: Rabbits. Greens and Roots.
Plant Height: 9-12"
Sow Depth: 1/2"
Spacing: 2-4"
Hardiness Zone: 3-10
Produces: 2-3" deep yellow, slightly elongated beets with green tops.
Soil Preparation
Soil pH: 6.0-8.0, Ideal 6.4-6.6. Beets do well in most soils, but the ideal is loose, sandy, well drained and close to neutral (they dislike acid soils). It should be quite fertile as continuous uninterrupted growth is necessary to produce good roots. If the soil is poor, growth will be irregular and the roots will show concentric growth rings (zoning).
Soil Preparation:
Standard Mix, 5 pounds per 100 sq. ft., in top 8" of soil: A standard mix will supply everything the plants need, including essential boron and other trace elements. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
- 4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
- 2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
- 2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
- 1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
- 1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Compost (Nitrogen), 2", in top 8" of soil, 1 time: Beets don’t need a lot of nitrogen, as it encourages top growth and retards sugar storage. Fork 2˝ of compost or aged manure (not fresh) into the top 6˝ to 8˝ of soil. This is where most of the plant's feeder roots are found, though these deep rooted plants may go down to 24˝ or more. To grow good roots in heavy soil, dig a trench and fill it with a mix of compost (or aged manure), sifted soil and sand.
Start Indoors
Soil temp for germination: 50°F to 85°F, optimal 70°F to 80°F, optimal 77°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 8 to 10 (Spring/Summer), 10 to 11 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
6-8 weeks before last frost date: When: Beets can be grown from transplants, started inside 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost date. They would just be a little earlier which is an advantage if you have warmer late spring weather and want an early spring crop.
How: Cell packs or soil blocks work best as beets don’t like root disturbance. Plant one seed capsule in each cavity.
Transplant Outdoors
Cold, Cool: Beets are quite fast growing, taking 50 to 80 days to maturity. They like cool weather and grow best with warm days (60 to 70 F) and cool nights. In most of the United States this means growing them as a spring or fall crop. They grow well enough in warm weather, but the high temperatures can cause the roots to be tough, unevenly colored (zoned), somewhat bitter (or lacking sweetness) and generally of lesser quality.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Beets can germinate in cold (40 degree) soil, but they are very slow. They germinate best at 70 degrees.
Spacing: 3"-5", 9 plants per sq ft. The distance between plants has a direct effect on the final size of the root, the closer the spacing, the smaller the root. Spacing also affects the time they take to mature, the more room they have the faster they will mature.
Suggested spacing:
5" spacing: Large roots or poor soil.
4" spacing: Main summer planting.
3" spacing: Small roots for pickling.
Support: No
Start Outdoors
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Beets can germinate in cold (40 degree) soil, but they are very slow. They germinate best at 70 degrees.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.75". Plant the seed 1/4" to 1/2" to 3/4" deep, depending on the warmth and dryness of soil. The cooler or wetter the soil, the shallower you should plant.
Spacing: 3.0"-5.0", 9 plants per sq ft. The distance between plants has a direct effect on the final size of the root, the closer the spacing, the smaller the root. Spacing also affects the time they take to mature, the more room they have the faster they will mature.
Suggested spacing:
5" spacing: Large roots or poor soil.
4" spacing: Main summer planting.
3" spacing: Small roots for pickling.
Spring Crop:
2 weeks before last frost date: Traditionally Beets are direct sown, starting two weeks before the last frost date. The soil should be at least 50˚ F for good germination.
Broadcasting: Sow the seeds so they are spaced about 2˝ apart. It’s easier to get the proper spacing with these large seeds, than it is with smaller seed such as Carrot. The scattered seed is then covered with a layer of soil. If the soil in the bed has a tendency to crust, use a mixture of topsoil and compost to cover them.
Rows: The seed can also be sown in rows. Simply make shallow furrows across the bed, drop a seed every 2˝ and re-fill the furrow (use cover soil if necessary).
Fall Crop:
6-10 weeks before first frost date: Beets can also be planted in late summer, 6 to 10 weeks before first fall frost date (they work well as a fall crop). This is the crop to store for winter. In mild winter areas your fall planted Beets will continue to grow slowly over the winter and can be harvested as needed.
Broadcasting: Sow the seeds so they are spaced about 2˝ apart. It’s easier to get the proper spacing with these large seeds, than it is with smaller seed such as Carrot. The scattered seed is then covered with a layer of soil. If the soil in the bed has a tendency to crust, use a mixture of topsoil and compost to cover them.
Rows: The seed can also be sown in rows. Simply make shallow furrows across the bed, drop a seed every 2˝ and re-fill the furrow (use cover soil if necessary).
Support: No
Water Needs: Moderate. Consistent watering is essential for good root production. Beets grown without sufficient water may have tough, woody roots and show concentric whitish zoning. They may also bolt prematurely. Too much water may result in bushy, luxuriant tops and small roots. Irregular watering may cause splitting.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Beets aren't very hungry plants, though they do like phosphorus and potassium.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week. Keep the soil evenly moist, but don’t over-water. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Thinning, after sowing: 2" apart, after sowing, 1 time. If germination is good, you will have a little clump of seedlings every 2˝. These clumps thin themselves to some extent, with the largest and most vigorous ones eventually crowding out the others. It is extremely important that the plants are thinned properly, as insufficient thinning is one of the most common reasons that plants fail to grow good roots.
First thinning: Thin the plants soon after they all emerge, when they are about an inch tall. Do this at the same time you are weeding them, ideally in cool cloudy weather. The first thinning should give you a single plant every 2˝. Don’t thin them to the final spacing at this time, as some might not survive.
Side Dressing, after planting: Mulch, 2", after planting, 1 time. Mulch helps to keep down weeds and conserves moisture. Wait until the soil is warm before applying it, however.
Thinning, when 3" tall: 4" apart, when 3" tall, 1 time. Second thinning: Thin the plants to the desired final spacing when they are 3 - 4" tall and the roots have swollen to an inch in diameter. The thinnings from this round are big enough to eat in salads or stir-fries.
Weeding, up to early fruit set: up to early fruit set, 1 time a week. Beets won’t grow well if they have to compete with weeds, so make sure they are weeded properly. This is particularly important when they are young and don’t have enough foliage to cover the ground. It is best to hand weed Beets as the shoulders of the roots are easily damaged by weeding tools.
Watering, before harvest: Water, 1", before harvest, 1 time a week. Give them extra water when the roots are sizing up to boost their final size. You want to give your plants a total of 2" a week. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Support: No
Harvesting
When and How:
Leaves, 1-56 days after maturity. Cut and Come Again Option For Greens As long as the leaves are 4" to 5" tall you can cut the tops. Leave the smaller leaves until they reach full size. Beet leaves can be used as a cut and come again crop, so they can be enjoyed as long as the roots are in the ground.
Whole Plant, 1-56 days after maturity.
When: You can start harvesting the roots as soon as they are large enough to bother with (1½˝ to 2˝). These are nice and tender at this stage, but not very sweet. The roots are sweeter, but still tender, when slightly larger (up to 4˝). If they get much bigger than this they have a tendency to get rather woody. To some extent this depends on the variety, growing methods and time of year and, so it’s not always the case.
How: Usually you can simply pull up the roots by the tops (if these are tender they can be used for greens, so don’t waste them). To minimize moisture loss in the roots, twist off the greens. If you are going to store the roots be very careful when harvesting them, as the slightest injury can lead to premature decay.
Storage
Storage Req: Ground
Storage Temp: 32-45°F
Storage Length: days
In very cold climates they are usually dug and stored in the root cellar (or something similar) in a box of damp sand or sawdust. If stored at 32 to 40˚ F and 90%+ humidity, they will last for 4 to 6 months.
Storage Req: Cool, Moist
Storage Temp: 32-40°F
Storage Length: 180 days
To prevent moisture loss from the root, cut off the leaves to within an inch or two of the root. Don’t cut too close to the crown as this may cause them to bleed. If you want to store them, leave the long stringy root tips in place and don’t wash them.
The roots can be stored in a plastic bag in the fridge, for several weeks.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 14-28 days
Beet is a biennial, which means the root has to survive the winter before it can produce seed. In mild climates you can simply leave them in the ground (cover with mulch if necessary). In colder climates you may have to lift the roots and store them in a root cellar as described above. Replant the best roots in spring and the seed will ripen by midsummer. A flowering beet plant may get to be 8 feet tall and can be quite top heavy, so is often staked to prevent it falling over.
You will get a lot of seed from one plant, let
alone 5 plants, which is the minimum number required to maintain some genetic variability.
Seed Viability in Years: 3 - 5 years
Germination Percentage: 60%
Culinary
Culinary Use: Beets have a high sugar content and earthy flavor. Steaming or roasting them preserves their flavor; they should be cooked until they are tender. The beet tops are especially good and can be cut many times while the beet root matures. Beets can be used to prepare soups, salads, pickled, and for side dishes. Beets combined with baby greens, citrus, nuts or cheeses makes a refreshing salad. Using red beets in risotto creates a delicious colorful dish or you can add a beet to poached apple or pears for extra sweetness and dramatic color. Don't forget about the leaves, as they are the most nutritious part. They may not be as good as chard, but they are still useful as a potherb, or a colorful minor addition to salads.
Medicinal
Companion Planting
Companions: Plant in alternate rows with other crops, even those that grow tall. (although beets prefer full sun, they also tolerate partial shade.) Alternate beets in a row with onions or kohlrabi. Beets have attractive red veined leaves that also make a nice addition to ornamental plantings.
Enemies: Some companion gardeners believe that beets do poorly when planted near pole beans or field mustard.
Problems
Leaf Miners
Flea Beetles
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
Damsel Bugs: Preys on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Flea beetles, Potato beetles, and Cabbage worms.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Preys on Aphids, small Caterpillars and Caterpillar eggs, Flea beetles, Fleahoppers, Lygus bugs, Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies.
To attract Big-Eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Leafhoppers
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Ladybeetles, Ladybugs, or Ladybird Beetles: Ladybeetles are probably the most well-known of beetles that eat aphids. There are many species, and both the adults and larvae eat aphids. Convergent lady beetles and the seven-spotted ladybeetles are abundant species in the environment. Eggs are found in clutches, yellow and football shaped. Larvae have an alligator-like appearance, and are black with orange markings. Pupae are sedentary. Ladybeetles are commercially available but purchasing is not generally recommended since the adult stage tends to fly away once released. Introductions may be more effective in greenhouses and high tunnels. Diverse plantings can help recruit resident ladybeetles to an area.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos,
Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Spiders: Prey on a wide range including bed bugs, aphids, roaches, grasshoppers, cabbage looper, and fruit flies.
To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving spiders, mulch for predatory spiders.
Aphids
Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos,
Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow
(Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), \Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
Caterpillars
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Braconid Wasps: prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Hoverflies: Prey on aphids, scale insects, caterpillars, and Thrips.
To attract Hoverflies to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Praying Mantis: Preys on a wide range including caterpillars, moths, beetles, and crickets.
To attract Praying Mantis to your garden try growing: tall Grasses and Shrubs, Cosmos, Marigolds, and Dills.
Nutrition
Roots: These are rich in carbohydrates and many beneficial phytochemicals, including folate, betacyanin and betaine.
The Health Benefits of Beets
Good for Heart Health: Beet fiber helps to reduce cholesterol and triglycerides by increasing the level of HDL cholesterol (“good” cholesterol). Having a high level of triglycerides increases the risk for heart related problems, so increased HDL is a good line of defense against that. The presence of the nutrient betaine lowers the levels of homocysteine in the body which can also be harmful to the blood vessels. Thus, consumption of beetroot helps to prevent cardiovascular diseases in multiple ways, so conditions like ahterosclerosis, heart attacks, and strokes are less likely to develop. The fiber in beets also works to strip excess LDL cholesterol from the walls and help to eliminate it from the body quickly.
Reduces Birth Defects: Beets are good for pregnant women since they are a source of B vitamin folate which helps in the development of infant’s spinal column. Deficiency of folate could lead to a variety of conditions called neural tube defects.
Prevent Certain Cancers: Studies have revealed that beets are good at preventing skin, lung, and colon cancer, since they contain the pigment betacyaninis, which counteracts cancerous cell growth. Nitrates used in meats as preservatives can stimulate the production of nitrosamine compounds in the body which can also result in cancer. Studies have now shown that beet juice inhibits the cell mutations caused by these compounds. Researchers in Hungary have also discovered that beet juice and its powdered form slows down tumor development. Adding a healthy weekly amount of beets to your diet can keep your body cancer-free for a very long time.
Good for Liver Health: Betaines contained in beet juice stimulate the functions of the liver
Prevents Respiratory Problems: Beetroot is a source of vitamin C that helps to prevent asthma symptoms. The natural beta carotene in beetroot also helps to prevent lungs cancer. Vitamin C is also a powerful antioxidant that boosts the immune system in a number of ways. Besides acting as an antioxidant itself and defending against the effects of free radicals in the body, vitamin C also stimulates the activity of white blood cells, which is the body’s main line of defense against foreign bodies, as well as viral, bacterial, fungal, and protozoan toxins that can result in a multitude of infections and illnesses. Vitamin C’s range goes from fighting the sniffles to reducing the chances of cancer, and beets has plenty of vitamin C!
Prevents Cataracts: The presence of beta-carotene, which is a form of vitamin A, helps to prevent age-related blindness called cataracts as well as a reduction in macular degeneration that commonly occurs as we get older. Vitamin A is considered a powerful antioxidant substance that is involved in many essential activities in the body.
Capillary Fragility: The flavonoids and vitamin-C in beets help to support the structure of capillaries.
Aphrodisiac: Beets have been considered an aphrodisiac or sexual booster for millennia. Part of this stems from the fact that beets contain significant levels of the mineral boron, which has been shown to boost the production of sexual hormones. This can lead to a boost in your libido, increased fertility, sperm mobility improvement, and a reduction in frigidity in the bedroom. Your sexual life can get a legitimate and time-tested push in the right direction by adding beets to the diet of you and your partner.
Boosts Energy Levels: Beets contain a significant amount of carbohydrates that provides fuel for energy and prolonged sports activities. These are the natural building blocks of energy metabolism, and beets provide them without any of the negative side effects of many other carbohydrate-heavy foods. When the body has a sufficient amount of carbohydrates, it is able to fuel all of the necessary bodily functions as well, including the important metabolic reactions that keep your organ systems functioning efficiently.
In a related function, researchers have noticed that oxygen uptake is greatly increased by people who drink beet juice due to the high nitrate content. The results show that oxygen uptake increases by up to 16%, which is an unheard of boost, and is actually more than a normal person can improve by, even when training extensively. This increases stamina for exercising and participating in sports, making beet juice an interesting sports drink that most people would never consider.
Macular Degeneration: The beta-carotene present in beetroot aids in reducing or slowing macular degeneration in the eyes. Macular degeneration is often associated with an increase in free radicals, which drastically affect the premature aging process of many people. The beta-carotene is a powerful form of vitamin A, which has antioxidant capabilities and defends the eyes against the damaging effects of these free radicals.
Strokes: A deficiency of potassium in the body increases the risk of stroke. Therefore, the potassium-rich beetroot is recommended to boost heart health for that reason as well. Potassium is called a vasodilator, meaning that it relaxes the blood vessels and reduces blood pressure throughout the body. When blood pressure is reduced and the vessels and arteries are no longer contracted, blood clots are far less likely to form, or get stuck, and the plaque that may have built up along the walls of your blood vessels will not accumulate more detritus to form additional clots. Clots are what eventually lead to heart attacks and strokes, so beets and their potassium content are quite a health booster!
What is more impressive is that studies have shown the effect to be ongoing. Blood pressure will continue to drop over the course of 24 hours, as though beets are naturally delaying their effects so the body can adjust, rather than plummeting the blood pressure at a dangerous speed.
More Benefits?: In ancient times, beets were used to cure fever and constipation. In the Middle Ages, beetroot was also used as a remedy for digestive disorders. Finally, beet leaves are good for speeding up the healing process of wounds.
A Few Words of Warning: Beets contain oxalates, which when consumed in excess can cause bodily fluids to crystallize. People with kidney or gallbladder problems should avoid beetroots because they could exacerbate kidney and bladder stones.
Suggested Varieties
Amaranth: Love Lies Bleeding (Heirloom) (Amaranthus caudatus)
Amaranth: Red Garnet (Heirloom) (Amaranthus tricolor)
Balm: Lemon (Melissa officinalis)
Bergamot: Wild (Monarda fistulosa)
Caraway (Carum carvi)
Carrots: Chantenay Red Cored (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Cosmic Purple (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Danvers (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Rainbow Blend (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Scarlet Nantes (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Tendersweet (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Catnip (Nepeta cataria)
Chives: Garlic (Allium tuberosum)
Chives: Onion (Allium schoenoprasum var. album)
Clover: Crimson (Trifolium incarnatum)
Coriander: Leisure (Coriandrum sativum)
Cosmos: Bright Lights (Cosmos sulphureus)
Cosmos: Candy Stripe (Cosmos bipinnatus)
Cosmos: Radiance (Cosmos bipinnatus)
Dill: Dukat (Anethum graveolens)
Cabbage: Early Jersey Wakefield (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
English Marigold (Calendula officinalis)
Fennel: Florence (Foeniculum vulgare var. azoricum)
Kohlrabi: Purple Vienna (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. gongylodes)
Marigolds: Sparky Mix French (Tagetes patula)
Marigold: White (Tagetes Erecta 'Kilimanjaro')
Commonly called African marigold, Aztec marigold, American marigold or big marigold, is native to Mexico and Central America. Big marigold may be the best descriptive name because plants are noted for their large flowerheads. They typically grow from 1-4’ tall and feature huge, mostly double-globular flowers (2-4” diameter) in various shades of yellow, orange, and whitish. This variety is unaffected by high summer heat and generally blooms throughout the summer.
Mint: Pennyroyal (Mentha Pulegium)
Mint: Spear (Mentha spicata)
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Nasturtiums: Empress of India (Tropaeolum minus)
Nasturtiums: Jewel Mix (Tropaeolum minus)
Onions: Evergreen White Bunching (Heirlooms) (Allium fistulosum)
Onions: Ruby Red (Heirloom) (Allium cepa)
Onions: Sweet Spanish White (Heirloom) (Allium cepa)
Onion: Sweet Spanish Yellow (Heirloom) (Allium cepa)
Parsley: Italian Giant (Heirloom) (Petroselinum crispum var. neapolitanum)
Penstemon: Rocky Mountain (Penstemon strictus)
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Poached Egg Plant (Limnanthes douglasii)
This native species was first discovered by David Douglas, a Scottish botanist commissioned to collect native American plants suitable for the gardens of Great Britain. The species name "douglasii" honors his discovery, while the genus name "Limnanthes" means "marsh flower" because of this plant's preference for moist soil. This fragrant butterfly magnet has been awarded the Royal Horticultural Society's prestigious Award of Garden Merit.
Radish: Early Scarlet Globe (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
Radish: German Giant (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
Radish: Watermelon (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
The Watermelon radish is a type of Japanese winter radish also known as a "daikon," which simply means "large root" in Japanese. Daikon radishes account for the largest percentage of any cultivated vegetable in Japan, and can be found in some form in nearly every meal of that country. Watermelon radishes, which orginated in north China near Beijing, are often served sweetened there as a dessert or fruit.
Radish: White Spear Sprouting (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
Thyme: Common (Thymus vulgaris)
Thyme: Creeping (Thymus serpyllum)
This plant is widely known as an herb. Thyme is the source of the oil Serpolet, which is used in herbal medicine. The plant is also often used as a food seasoning and the dried leaves may be used to make tea! This low growing plant with creeping, woody foliage bears small, lavender colored flower during the months of June and July. The hardy plant tolerates some pedestrian traffic and produces odors ranging from heavily herbal to lightly lemon, depending on the plant!