Cabbage: Red Acre (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)

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Cabbage is considered one of the oldest cultivated vegetables, since historians trace it back to 4,000 BC in China. The Romans also cultivated it and praised it for its healing qualities; philosophers Pythagoras and Cato both made the lowly cabbage the subject of a book. Jacques Cartier brought the first cabbage to America in 1536. Cabbages were quite popular in colonial America, being pickled and preserved in every possible way to provide food for the winter.

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General Information
Soil Preparation & Start Indoors
Transplant Outdoors & Start Outdoors
Crop Care
Harvesting & Storage
Seed Saving
Culinary
Companion Planting
Nutrition & Health Benefits

Scientific Name: Brassica oleracea var. capitata

Ease of Growing: Moderate

Grown as: Cabbage is a biennial plant but it is grown as an annual. For seed production it is biennial.

Days to Maturity: 76 days

Hardiness: Hardy. Cabbages are very hardy and can be frost tolerant.

Crops: Spring Transplant, Spring, Fall Transplant, Fall

Growing Season: Short, Long

Growing Conditions: Cold, Cool. Start indoors 8 weeks before last frost, or outdoors March through June. Fast growing or stressed cabbages tend to split and bolt; cutting into the root system will slow growth and prevent splitting. Provide transplants with cutworm shield collars. Cabbage prefers rich, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-7.5. Water heavily from planting to head formation, then water moderately to prevent splitting. Cabbage is a hardy crop, grown best in cool spring and fall temperatures.

Outdoor Growing Temp: 40°F - 75°F

Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 40°F. If you are growing cabbage in cool weather, they should be planted in a warm sheltered place, with full sun. Cabbage doesn’t do well in hot weather, as it causes excessive transpiration from the large leaves. It really needs cool weather and short days to head up satisfactorily.

Start Indoors: Yes

Start Outdoors: Yes

Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Cold, Cool). Fun sun or partial shade in warm climates

Water: Moderate. Cabbages need a regular water supply to grow well, so keep the soil evenly moist. Heads may split if a heavy rain follows a long dry spell without irrigation.

Feeder: Heavy. Cabbages are hungry plants and must have rich soil if they are to produce well. They prefer heavy soil with lots of organic matter to retain moisture and lots of available nutrients (especially potassium and phosphorus). They don't need a lot of nitrogen however, as this can lead to sappy growth that isn't very hardy. Early varieties require a higher soil fertility than mid or late-season varieties.

Suitability: Tolerates light frost, Tolerates hard frost, Needs lots of space

Small Gardens?: No

Containers?: Yes. Cabbage does quite well in containers, so long as they are big enough. The ideal container for cabbage is at least 8" deep and 12" in diameter. In order to prevent root damage, make sure your container drains well. This can be done by lining the bottom of your container with a layer of small stones, or by placing holes in the bottom to ensure drainage of excess moisture. Maintain regular watering and keep the soil moist but not soaked. When your cabbage forms a head, gradually decrease watering to keep your heads from splitting.

Attracts beneficial insects?: No

Forage: Rabbits. Safe in Moderation!

Plant Height: 12-18"

Spacing: 24-30"

Sow Depth: 1/2"

USDA Hardiness Zone: 2-11

Produces: 3 lbs. reddish purple round heads.

Garden Uses: Vegetable gardens

Soil Preparation

Soil Preference:
Soil pH: 6.0-7.5, Ideal 7.0-7.5
Cabbages are hungry plants and must have rich soil if they are to produce well. They prefer heavy soil with lots of organic matter to retain moisture and lots of available nutrients (especially potassium and phosphorus). They don't need a lot of nitrogen however, as this can lead to sappy growth that isn't very hardy. It doesn't like poorly drained soil. Potential micronutrient deficiencies include boron and manganese. Early crops may do better in lighter soils that warm up more rapidly, or in raised beds.

Soil Preparation:
Compost (Nitrogen), 2" in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Cabbages love organic matter, so incorporate 2˝ of compost or aged manure into the top 6˝ of soil. If this is applied the previous fall, fresh manure can be used.

Standard Mix, 5 pounds per 100 sq. ft., in top 6" of soil, 1 time: This standard mix will supply additional phosphate, wood ashes, kelp and dolomite limestone. This should be incorporated into soil along with the compost.
This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:

4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)

Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.

Start Indoors

Germinate:
6-8 weeks before last frost date: Spring Cabbage should be planted early to take advantage of the cool days of spring. It is very hardy and can survive quite hard frosts. They don’t mind transplanting, so are commonly started in flats, cell packs, soil blocks or plug trays. The first Cabbage plants can be started 6 to 8 weeks before the last spring frost and planted out 4 to 6 weeks later. They should still be small enough that they won’t be vernalized by a late cold snap, which would cause them to bolt.

1. Plant the seeds ½˝ deep and keep them warm (60 to 80˚F) for fastest germination.
2. Once they are growing, reduce the temperature to between 50 and 70˚ F, as they grow better in cooler conditions. If necessary prick out the seedlings to a larger container when they have 2 sets of leaves.

Harden Off: 4 weeks before last frost date. Allow plants to acclimate to their new outdoor conditions. Leave plants outside, for a longer time period each day. This will harden them off before transplanting.

12-16 weeks before first frost date: Start a fall crop 12 to 16 weeks before the first fall frost. It is very hardy and can survive quite hard frosts. Cabbages are usually started indoors and transplanted out. They don’t mind transplanting, so are commonly started in flats, cell packs, soil blocks or plug trays.

1. Plant the seeds ½˝ deep and keep them warm (60 to 80˚F) for fastest germination.
2. Once they are growing, reduce the temperature to between 50 and 70˚ F, as they grow better in cooler conditions.
3. If necessary prick out the seedlings to a larger container when they have 2 sets of leaves.

Replant: 9-14 weeks before first frost date. If necessary prick out the seedlings to a larger container when they have 2 sets of leaves.

Transplant Outdoors

2-3 weeks before last frost date: The seedlings will be ready to go in the ground when they have 4 or 5 true leaves and are about 4˝ high. Be sure to plant them outside as soon as they are of sufficient size. If they sit around in containers for too long they will get stressed and deficient. In cold weather the plants should be hardened off before they are planted outside. Transplanting is pretty straightforward; just bury the stems up to their first set of true leaves. Press down gently around the plant to firm the soil and leave a slight depression. Water immediately to help the plant recover.

8-10 weeks before first frost date: Cabbage is a good winter crop, planted in late summer or early autumn. This will mature in late autumn and then stand right through the winter in good condition. Such plants can get very big. The seedlings will be ready to go in the ground when they have 4 or 5 true leaves and are about 4˝ high. Be sure to plant them outside as soon as they are of sufficient size. If they sit around in containers for too long they will get stressed and deficient. In cold weather the plants should be hardened off before they are planted outside. Transplanting is pretty straightforward; just bury the stems up to their first set of true leaves. Press down gently around the plant to firm the soil and leave a slight depression. Water immediately to help the plant recover.

Cold, Cool: Start indoors 8 weeks before last frost, or outdoors March through June. Fast growing or stressed cabbages tend to split and bolt; cutting into the root system will slow growth and prevent splitting. Provide transplants with cutworm shield collars. Cabbage prefers rich, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-7.5. Water heavily from planting to head formation, then water moderately to prevent splitting. Cabbage is a hardy crop, grown best in cool spring and fall temperatures.

When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F

When min soil temp: 40°F. If you are growing cabbage in cool weather, they should be planted in a warm sheltered place, with full sun. Cabbage doesn’t do well in hot weather, as it causes excessive transpiration from the large leaves. It really needs cool weather and short days to head up satisfactorily.

Spacing: 12"-18", 1 plants per sq ft. This varies according to variety, fertility, the time of year and how large you want the plants to get. You can control the final size of the plants by the spacing, a wider spacing means larger (but fewer plants).

12" spacing is for very fertile soil, summer and small heads.
15" spacing is for average soil, summer and average heads.
18" spacing is for poor soil, winter and large heads.

If you want to plant them in rows, the traditional spacing is 12 to 18 inches apart in the row, with 24 inches between the rows.

Start Outdoors

When Cold, Cool: Start indoors 8 weeks before last frost, or outdoors March through June. Fast growing or stressed cabbages tend to split and bolt; cutting into the root system will slow growth and prevent splitting. Provide transplants with cutworm shield collars. Cabbage prefers rich, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-7.5. Water heavily from planting to head formation, then water moderately to prevent splitting. Cabbage is a hardy crop, grown best in cool spring and fall temperatures.

When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F

When min soil temp: 40°F. If you are growing cabbage in cool weather, they should be planted in a warm sheltered place, with full sun. Cabbage doesn’t do well in hot weather, as it causes excessive transpiration from the large leaves. It really needs cool weather and short days to head up satisfactorily.

Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Plant the seeds 1/2" deep and 12" apart.

Spacing: 12-18", 1 plants per sq ft. This varies according to variety, fertility, the time of year and how large you want the plants to get. You can control the final size of the plants by the spacing, a wider spacing means larger (but fewer plants).

12" spacing is for very fertile soil, summer and small heads.
15" spacing is for average soil, summer and average heads.
18" spacing is for poor soil, winter and large heads.

If you want to plant them in rows, the traditional spacing is 12 to 18 inches apart in the row, with 24 inches between the rows.

Spring Crop: 0-2 weeks before last frost date. In warmer weather Cabbage can be sown directly outdoors. The plants grow well when direct sown, though there is a danger that they may end up as dinner for some of the many hungry pests that love Brassicas. This problem of predation is one reason it is common for them to be started indoors, where they are more easily protected.

Fall Crop: 12-16 weeks before first frost date. In warm weather Cabbage can be sown directly outdoors. The plants grow well when direct sown, though there is a danger that they may end up as dinner for some of the many hungry pests that love Brassicas. This problem of predation is one reason it is common for them to be started indoors, where they are more easily protected.

Cabbage doesn't do well in hot weather, as it causes excessive transpiration from the large leaves. It really needs cool weather and short days to head up satisfactorily. This means that it does best when planted early (to mature before mid-summer), or late (to mature in the fall).

Water Needs: Moderate. Watering, regularly. Water, 0.5-1.0 gallon(s) per plant, regularly, 1 time a week Cabbages need a regular water supply to grow well, so keep the soil evenly moist. Heads may split if a heavy rain follows a long dry spell without irrigation. They are quite shallow rooted, so make sure there is plenty of moisture in the soil at all times. This is particularly important in hot weather. Consistent watering is also important. Lack of water can result in unpleasantly strong tasting plants and thicker, tougher leaves. At the other extreme, if plants are suddenly soaked after being very dry the resulting burst in growth can cause the head to split. It is best to use drip irrigation so the leaves don’t get wet, as several diseases can be spread in this way. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.

Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Cabbages are hungry plants and must have rich soil if they are to produce well. They prefer heavy soil with lots of organic matter to retain moisture and lots of available nutrients (especially potassium and phosphorus). They don't need a lot of nitrogen however, as this can lead to sappy growth that isn't very hardy. Early varieties require a higher soil fertility than mid or late-season varieties.

Side Dressing, after planting: Compost tea, 5 gallon(s) per 100 sq. ft., after planting, 1 time. A liquid feed of compost tea is helpful in early spring, while the soil is cool and nitrogen is not readily available.

Side Dressing, at early fruit set: Compost tea, 5 gallon(s) per 100 sq. ft., at early fruit set, 1 time.
Give the plants another feed of compost tea as the plants start to head up to help them grow bigger.

Harvesting

Ripening: Harvest when heads are tightly formed into 4 to 6" cabbages.

When and How:
Whole Plant, 1-60 days after maturity:
When: Harvest the first cabbage heads as soon as they are big and solid enough to be worthwhile. You can harvest the un-hearted plants before this, but they will be less productive. If a mature head begins to crack (this may be caused by excess nitrogen, aging or irregular water supply) harvest it and use promptly. This doesn’t affect edibility, but it does affect storage life. Heads store well in cool (32 -40 degrees Fahrenheit), moist locations for 5-6 months.

Delaying maturation: If too many Cabbages are maturing at once, you can slow their growth by cutting through some of their roots with a spade. You can also twist the head a quarter turn, to break some of the roots.

How: Harvest by cutting through the base of the stem with a knife. When you harvest early cabbage, you might want to leave a few leaves on the root (this is the fastest way to get a clean cabbage anyway). These will keep the root alive and may enable it to produce a new crop of mini cabbages. If you harvest all but one of these, the remaining one might even grow into another small head. Remove the roots after harvest and compost or burn them, to help prevent the buildup of disease.

Storage

In mild winter areas, it is easier to leave them growing in the garden until you need them. Protect with mulch if necessary.

Storage Req: Ground
Storage Temp: 40-55°F
Storage Length: days

Cabbage will store for a few weeks in a plastic bag in a refrigerator (don’t wash the heads).

Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-21 days

Cabbage can be stored for months as sauerkraut, which is a simple fermentation process in brine. This is a great way to use up an abundance of organic cabbage from the garden which contains health and flavor benefits.

Storage Req: Canning
Storage Temp: 50-60°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days

Heads store well in cool (32 -40 degrees Fahreinheit), moist locations for 5-6 months.

Storage Req: Cool, Moist
Storage Temp: 32-40°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days

Cabbage is a biennial and takes two years to produce seed. Don't save seed from plants that flower in their first year, as you don't want to raise an annual strain that bolts quickly. Cabbage is usually self-incompatible and must be cross-pollinated by insects. This means there must be a number of plants flowering at the same time. All of the Cole crops are the same species and will cross with each other--Kale, Collards, Kohlrabi, Broccoli, etc. To maintain racial purity you have to ensure that only one type flowers at once. The alternative is to isolate them, either by distance (1000 yards for different varieties, 1500 yards for different crops), or by caging them (don't forget they need insects for pollination).

Seed Viability in Years: 3-8 years
Germination Percentage: 75%

Taste:
Sweet and robust.

Culinary Use:
Cabbage can be braised or steamed, which brings out the earthly sweet flavors. Raw or pickled cabbage in either cole slaw or sauerkraut creates a whole new dimension to the vegetable. Either smooth or crinkled cabbage leaves can be stuffed. Cabbage is a good source of nutrients and is very rich in flavor when it comes from your garden.

Leaves: raw or cooked. Cabbages are generally used as a cooked vegetable, though the shredded leaves can also be eaten in salads. Dutch cabbages are generally sweeter and milder in flavor making them more suitable for raw eating. Those leaves in the heart of the plants are more tender than outside leaves and so are also more suitable for eating raw. These heart leaves, though, are less nutritious because they have been excluded from the light. Many people find that the raw leaves give them indigestion. The leaves can be fermented and made into sauerkraut, used as a health food and said to be good for the digestive system. By careful selection of cultivars, it is possible to harvest cabbages all year round.

Seeds: sprouted and added to salads. Very good eating.

Companion Planting

Companions: Celery, dill, onions and potatoes are good companion plants. Celery improves growth and health. Clover interplanted with cabbage has been shown to reduce the native cabbage aphid and cabbageworm populations by interfering with the colonization of the pests and increasing the number of predatory ground beetles. Plant Chamomile with cabbage as it Improves growth and flavor.

Enemies: Cabbage does not get along with strawberries, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, rue, grapes, lettuce and pole beans.

Problems

Potential insect problems include cabbageworms, cabbage loopers, flea beetles, caterpillars, thrips, slugs and aphids. Root maggots may be a problem in some areas. Watch for leaf spots, blackleg, black rot and yellows.

Cabbageworms

Beneficial insects such as Braconid Wasps, Birds, Damsel Bugs, Tachinid Flies, and Yellow Jacket Wasps all prey on Cabbageworms.

Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.

To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.

Damsel Bugs: Prey on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Potato Beetles, and Cabbage Worms.

To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Tachinid Flies: Prey on Cabbageworms, Gypsy Moths, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetle, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.

To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: carrots, dill, coriander, and buckwheat.

Yellow Jacket Wasps: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.

Cabbage Loopers

Beneficial insects such as Ladybugs, Minute Pirate Bugs, and Spiders all prey on Cabbage Loopers.

Flea Beetles

Beneficial insects such as Braconid wasps, Tachinid flies, Lacewings larvae, Damsel bugs, and Big Eyed Bug all prey on Flea Beetles.

Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.

To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.

Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.

To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.

Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.

To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.

Damsel Bugs: Preys on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Flea beetles, Potato beetles, and Cabbage worms.

To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Big-eyed Bugs: Preys on Aphids, small Caterpillars and Caterpillar eggs, Flea beetles, Fleahoppers, Lygus bugs, Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies.

To attract Big-Eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Caterpillars

Beneficial insects such as Assassin Bugs, Big Eyed Bugs, Braconid Wasps, Damsel Bugs, Ground Beetles, Hoverflies, Lacewings, Minute Pirate Bugs, and Preying Mantis all prey on Caterpillars.

Assassin Bugs: Preys on Aphids, leafhoppers, asparagus beetle eggs and larvae, small flying insects, and up to medium-sized caterpillars.

To attract Assassin Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Most garden plants, field crops, ornamental trees and shrubs. Spined assassin bugs are often found on goldenrod and other wildflowers.

Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.

To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Braconid Wasps: prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.

To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.

Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.

To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.

To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.

Hoverflies: Prey on aphids, scale insects, caterpillars, and Thrips.

To attract Hoverflies to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea ﬁlipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa ofﬁcinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda ﬁstulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys ofﬁcinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).

Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.

To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea ﬁlipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunﬂower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum ofﬁcinale).

Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.

To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Praying Mantis: Preys on a wide range including caterpillars, moths, beetles, and crickets.

To attract Praying Mantis to your garden you will need to grow: tall grasses and shrubs, cosmos, marigolds, and dills.

Thrips

Beneficial insects such as Big-eyed Bugs, Hoverflies, and Minute Pirate Bugs all prey on Thrips.

Big-eyed Bugs: Prey on Aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies.

To attract Big-eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Hoverflies: Preys on Aphids, Scale insects, Caterpillars, and Thrips.

To attract Hoverflies to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea ﬁlipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa ofﬁcinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda ﬁstulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys ofﬁcinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).

Minute Pirate Bugs: Prey on Spider Mites, Cabbage Looper, Insect Eggs, Caterpillars, Aphids, and Thrips.

To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Plants that attract Minute Pirate Bugs are: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Slugs

Beneficial insects such as earwigs and ground beetles prey on Slugs.

Earwig: prey on Slugs and Snails.

To attract Earwigs to your garden you will need to grow: Celery (Apium graveolens), Beets (Beta vulgaris, Cabbages, Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea/Brassica rapa), Cucumber (Cucumis sativus), Dahlia, Carrot (Daucus carota), Carnation (Dianthus), Carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus), Strawberry (Fragaria ananassa), Hop (Humulus lupulus), Lettuce (Lactuca sativa), Lupin (Lupinus angustifolius), Apple (Malus domestica), Apricot (Prunus armeniaca), Sweet Cherry (Prunus avium), Plum (Prunus domestica), Peach (Prunus persica), European Pear (Pyrus communis), Rhubarb (Rheum hybridum), Roses (Rosa), Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum), Potato (Solanum tuberosum), Grapevine (Vitis vinifera), Corn (Zea mays), Zinnia.

Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado Potato Beetles, and Cutworms.

To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: Evening Primrose, Amaranthus, and Clover.

Aphids

Beneficial insects such as Ladybugs, Collops Beetle, Soldier Beetles, Long-legged Flies, Hover Flies, Predaceous Midges, Damsel Bugs, Big-eyed Bugs, Minute Pirate Bugs, Lacewings, and Parasitic Wasps,
Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.

Ladybeetles, Ladybugs, or Ladybird Beetles: Ladybeetles are probably the most well-known of beetles that eat aphids. There are many species, and both the adults and larvae eat aphids. Convergent lady beetles and the seven-spotted ladybeetles are abundant species in the environment. Eggs are found in clutches, yellow and football shaped. Larvae have an alligator-like appearance, and are black with orange markings. Pupae are sedentary. Ladybeetles are commercially available but purchasing is not generally recommended since the adult stage tends to fly away once released. Introductions may be more effective in greenhouses and high tunnels. Diverse plantings can help recruit resident ladybeetles to an area.

To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.

Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.

Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.

Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.

Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.

Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.

To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea ﬁlipendulina), Common yarrow
(Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), \Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa ofﬁcinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda ﬁstulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys ofﬁcinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).

Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.

Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.

To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.

To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.

To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.

To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea ﬁlipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunﬂower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum ofﬁcinale).

Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.

Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.

Nutrition

Cabbage is rich in vitamin C and several cancer preventing phytochemicals (anthocyanins, sulforaphane, isothiocyanates, dithiolethiones). It has been found that people who eat lots of Brassicas, have lower cancer rates than those who don't

The health benefits of cabbage

The health benefits of cabbage include frequent use as a treatment for constipation, stomach ulcers, headaches, obesity, skin disorders, eczema, jaundice, scurvy, rheumatism, arthritis, gout, eye disorders, heart diseases, aging, and Alzheimer’s disease. Did you know that the inexpensive, humble and widely used cabbage can practically work miracles? Cabbage is a leafy vegetable of Brassica family, and is round or oval in shape. It consists of soft, light green or whitish inner leaves covered with harder and dark green outer leaves. It is widely used throughout the world, and can be prepared in a number of ways, but most commonly, it is included as either a cooked or raw part of many salads. Cabbage is beneficial in curing various health ailments and a short list of those researched attributes are listed below:

Deficiency of Vitamin C: Scurvy is a disease commonly characterized by spongy and bleeding gums, cracked lip corners, weakened immune system, frequent infections and cold, premature aging, and depression.

Remedy: Cabbage is an abundant source of Vitamin C. You might be surprised to know that it is actually richer in vitamin C than oranges, which is traditionally considered the “best” source of that vital nutrient. Vitamin C, as one of the best antioxidants, reduces free radicals in your body that are one of the fundamental causes of premature aging. It also helps in repairing the wear and tear on the body through the course of your life. Therefore, cabbage is very helpful in treating ulcers, certain cancers, depression, immune system boosting, and defending against cough and cold. It can also speed up the healing process for wounds and damaged tissues, regulate the proper functioning of the nervous system, and reduce the effects and presence of Alzheimer’s disease and other degenerative neural diseases.

Deficiency of Roughage: This is a very serious deficiency but one that is commonly overlooked in the maintenance of personal health. A lack of roughage in food can result in constipation, which is the root cause of many other ailments and health hazards such as stomach ulcers, headaches, gastrointestinal cancers, indigestion and a subsequent loss of appetite. The dangers of roughage deficiency even extend to skin diseases, eczema, premature aging and hundreds of mild to serious conditions.

Remedies: Cabbage is very rich in fiber, the main health benefit of roughage. This helps the body retain water and it maintains the bulkiness of the food as it moves through the bowels. Thus, it is a good remedy for constipation and other digestion-related problems.

Deficiency of Sulphur: Sulphur is a very useful nutrient because it fights infections. A deficiency of sulphur can result in microbial infections and a greatly reduced rate in the healing of wounds.

Remedy: Again, cabbage is rich is sulphur. So, it helps fight infections in wounds and reduces the frequency and severity of ulcers.

Cancer Prevention: Cabbage is a member of the Brassica family, also known as cruciferous vegetables. One of their most important celebrated benefits to health is their powerful antioxidant quality. This means that cabbage and other similar vegetables scavenge free radicals from around the body, which can be very detrimental to overall health and are major contributors to things like cancer and heart disease. Cabbage also has a number of anti-cancer compounds, like lupeol, sinigrin, and sulforaphane, which are known to stimulate enzyme activity and inhibit the growth of tumors, which can lead to cancer. One study, performed primarily on Chinese women, showed a significant reduction in breast cancer when cruciferous vegetables like cabbage were regularly added to their diet.

Anti-Inflammatory Properties: Cabbage is known to accumulate a build-up of cadmium-binding complexes in its leaves, and one of the main components of that is glutamine. Glutamine is a strong anti-inflammatory agent, so consuming cabbage can reduce the effects of many type of inflammation, irritation, allergies, joint pain, fever, and various skin disorders.

Eye Health: Cabbage is a rich source of beta-carotene, so many people, particularly as they get older, turn to cabbage for its ability to prevent macular degeneration and generally promote good eye health and the delay of cataract formation. Beta-carotene has also been positively linked to reduced chances of prostate cancer, which is an extra bonus on top of the other anti-carcinogenic effects of cabbage!

Weight Loss: Cabbage is frequently recommended for people who want to lose weight in a healthy way. Since cabbage is packed with so many beneficial vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients, it is a healthy dietary option for people to eat a lot of, and it is quite filling, since it has high levels of fiber, which add bulk to the bowels. However, cabbage is extremely low in calories, only 33 calories in a cup of cooked cabbage. Therefore, people can go on the popular “cabbage soup” diet, and eat plenty of food to stay healthy, without gaining excess weight!

Brain Health: Let’s not forget that cabbage is a very powerful brain food! The presence of Vitamin K and anthocyanins within cabbage can give a strong boost to mental function and concentration. These are primarily found in red cabbage, and vitamin K has been well-researched, although it is often called the “forgotten vitamin”. Vitamin K is essential in the production of sphingolipids, the myelin sheath around around nerves. This wrapping is what protects nerves from damage and decay. Therefore, consuming vitamin K can improve your defense against neural degeneration, Alzheimer’s disease, and dementia. Furthermore, the anthocyanins in cabbage are a current area of research, but early indications point to it being a more powerful source of antioxidants than vitamin-C, and red cabbage has even more types of anthocyanins than normal cabbage. It also appears that the nutrient uptake is not limited by anything, and that people can eat as much cabbage as they want, and continue to accumulate antioxidants, which help fight off diseases, reduce chances of cancer, improve the nervous system, and increase brain function. Cabbage, as well as all cruciferous vegetables, are great sources of minerals, like calcium, magnesium, and potassium. These three essential minerals are integral in the protection of bones from degradation and the onset of conditions like osteoporosis and general bone weakening.

Blood Pressure: The presence of potassium in cabbage also makes it a wonderful way to protect yourself from elevated blood pressure, which increases the risk of heart attack and stroke. Potassium is a vasodilator, which means that it opens up the blood vessels and eases the flow of blood, so it isn’t being forced in a stress-inducing way through constricted arteries and veins. Overall, cabbage is a great shield against many types of dangerous conditions!

Skin Care and Premature Aging: As mentioned already, cabbage has a wealth of different antioxidant sources, including vitamin-C, anthocyanins, sulphur, and other smaller sources, since it is a cruciferous vegetable. Antioxidants play a major role in skin health and the general toning and improvement of the body in response to the aging process. Free radicals can be an underlying cause of wrinkles, skin discoloration, spots, and many other conditions. Therefore, the antioxidants you gain by eating cabbage can cause a turn-around in your aging processes, leaving you feeling and looking healthy and young!

Muscle Aches: When certain bacteria ferment the sugars in cabbage, such as during the cooking of sauerkraut, lactic acid is released. It isn’t the easiest compound to find in a diet, but it has been shown to reduce muscle soreness and aches, so in some small way, cabbage can help general pain relief and muscle soreness, depending on how it is prepared.

Detoxification by cabbage: Cabbage acts as a good detoxifier too, meaning that it purifies the blood and removes toxins, primarily free radicals and uric acid which are primary causes of rheumatism, gout, arthritis, renal calculi, skin diseases, and eczema. This detoxifying effect of cabbage is due to the high content of vitamin C and sulphur in cabbage.

Other benefits of Cabbage:
Cabbage, being rich in iodine, helps in proper functioning of the brain and the nervous system, along with keeping the glands of the endocrine system in proper condition. It is good for the brain and is useful in the treatment of neural disorders such as Alzheimer’s disease. The various other nutrients present in cabbage, such as vitamin-E, keep the skin, eyes and hair healthy. The calcium, magnesium, and potassium found in cabbage is very useful for a wide range of healh benefits. Cabbage can also be used for the treatment of varicose veins, leg ulcers, peptic and duodenal ulcers. Basically, that very common component of your Chinese dishes could be a miraculous addition to your diet. Don’t be afraid to add cabbage to your daily diet, whether it is in your soup or salad, and that small change will help you live a healthier and longer life. Cooked cabbage is how most people get it into their diet or system, but the cooking actually causes many of the nutrients to be lost, particularly the high levels of vitamin-C, and the other nutrients will become harder for the body to absorb. The best option is to eat the cabbage raw!

Source

Suggested Varieties

Amaranth: Love Lies Bleeding (Heirloom) (Amaranthus caudatus)

$1.00 - $5.60

As a decorative flower, Love-Lies-Bleeding grew in many Victorian English gardens; in the language of flowers, it represents hopeless love. In addition to producing lovely flowers, Love-Lies-Bleeding is a form of the grain-producing plant known as amaranth. A staple grain for the Aztecs and Incas, amaranth was referred to as the "golden grain of the gods" and used in religious rituals. The plant nearly died out when the Spanish Conquistadors declared their religious practices barbaric, and made growing amaranth a capital offense. Today, both the leaves and the seeds of amaranth are an important food source in many parts of the world. This unique grain provides an impressive amount of vitamins and minerals, as well as being very rich in protein.