Onions: Sweet Spanish White (Heirloom) (Allium cepa)
-
General Information
-
Soil Preparation & Start Indoors
-
Transplant Outdoors & Start Outdoors
-
Crop Care
-
Harvesting & Storage
-
Seed Saving
-
Culinary & Medicinal
-
Companion Planting
-
Nutrition & Health Benefits
-
Other Uses
Ease of Growing: Moderate
Grown as: Biennial
Days to Maturity: 110 days
Hardiness: Hardy. Onions are very hardy and can be frost tolerant.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Spring, Fall Transplant, Fall
Growing Season: Long
Growing Conditions: Cold, Cool, Warm, Long days. Correct timing is important with bulb onions, if you don't plant them at the right time they won't do very well. The best onions are grown from transplants set out in October or November and wintered over to mature in June and July. Plant transplants right away, if possible. Transplants are happy if you apply a light mulch to help conserve moisture for uniform growth.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 55°F - 80°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 50°F. Onion seed takes a month to germinate at 40 degrees, but only 2 weeks at 50 degrees, so you don't necessarily lose much time by waiting until the soil has warmed up a little.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Cold, Cool, Warm). Full sun.
Water: Moderate. Onions are quite drought tolerant, but a lack of water makes the bulb smaller and more pungent. For best flavor and largest bulbs you must keep the soil moist at all times, so there is no interruption in growth.
Feeder: Light. Low nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Onions don't need a lot of nitrogen, but they do like potassium and phosphorus.
Suitability: Drought tolerant, Tolerates light frost
Small Gardens?: Yes
Containers?: Yes. Onions can be grown easily in containers. Make sure they have good drainage and the pot is at least 12" deep. Fill with a mixture of potting soil and compost, and water thoroughly. Make sure that your onions have access to plenty of sunshine. Keep the soil moist.
Attracts beneficial insects?: No
Maintenance: Medium
Plant Height: 18-24"
Spacing: 4-6"
Sow Depth: 1/2"
Produces: round, white onions of a large size. Long day variety.
Hardiness Zones: 3-11
Soil Preparation
Soil pH: 6.0-7.5, Ideal 6.8-7.0. Onions don't need a lot of nutrients, but they aren't very efficient feeders (their roots are weak and shallow), so you have make sure they have plenty available. For example, they only need about 150 pounds of nitrogen per acre, but you may have to add 300 pounds for them to get even that much. Onions do best in a loose, rich, moisture retentive soil with lots of organic matter. They don't like compacted, heavy, dry, acid, salty, or poorly drained soils (their roots may rot if it is too wet).
Soil Preparation:
Lime (Calcium), 5 pound(s) per 100 sq. ft., in top 6" of soil, 1 time: OPTIONAL: Onions don't like acidic soil, so add dolomitic limestone if necessary. The quantity needed will vary according to soil type, but 5 pounds per 100 square feet is a typical application.
Standard Mix, 5 pound(s) per 100 sq. ft., in top 6" of soil, 1 time: A standard mix will supply any additional nutrients required. Incorporate it into the soil along with the compost. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
- 4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
- 2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
- 2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
- 1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
- 1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Compost (Nitrogen), 2", in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Prepare the soil by incorporating 2˝ of compost or aged manure into the top 6˝ of soil, which is where most of their feeder roots are to be found. For an early spring planting you could do this in fall, using fresh manure if necessary.
Start Indoors
Soil temp for germination: 50°F to 85°F, optimal 60°F to 70°F, optimal 68°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 16 (Spring/Summer), 30 to 34 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
22 weeks before first frost date: Onions must be started early if they are to get big before the long summer days trigger bulbing. The longer the plants grow before bulbing, the bigger the bulb can get. Onions don’t mind transplanting, in fact it may even encourage good root growth. Start the seeds about 10 to 12 weeks before planting out time.
1. Plant in flats or drills, 1/4˝ apart and 1/2˝ deep (cover with a sifted soil / compost mix). You can grow a lot of plants in a small area. The plants will germinate much quicker if you put them in a warm place (75 to 80˚ F).
2. Keep the soil moist and free of crusting.
3. Once they have germinated they should be put in a cool place (60 to 70˚ F), as this gives you stockier, hardier plants.
Germinate:
16 weeks before last frost date: Onions must be started early if they are to get big before the long summer days trigger bulbing. The longer the plants grow before bulbing, the bigger the bulb can get. Onions don’t mind transplanting, in fact it may even encourage good root growth. Start the seeds about 10 to 12 weeks before planting out time.
1. Plant in flats or drills, 1/4˝ apart and 1/2˝ deep (cover with a sifted soil / compost mix). You can grow a lot of plants in a small area. The plants will germinate much quicker if you put them in a warm place (75 to 80˚ F).
2. Keep the soil moist and free of crusting.
3. Once they have germinated they should be put in a cool place (60 to 70˚ F), as this gives you stockier, hardier plants.
Transplant Outdoors
1. Use only the largest, healthiest seedlings and plant them 1˝ deep. Some people cut off part of the top and root before transplanting, but the logic of reducing their root and leaf area seems dubious and probably isn’t a good idea.
Planting Sets: This is pretty straightforward. Some gardeners sort out their sets and use the small ones for bulb onions and larger ones for scallions (these are more likely to bolt).
1. Simply place them on the ground (right side up) at the proper 4" to 5" spacing. You can then see the spacing easily and adjust it as necessary.
2. Then use your finger to push the sets down into the soil 1" in depth and close up the hole.
10-12 weeks before first frost date: One way to give the plants more time for vegetative growth in spring is to start them in autumn. This gives the plants longer to grow and so results in larger bulbs. Time your planting so the seedlings are well established before frost arrives.
Planting Seedlings: If the stems are smaller than 1/4˝ diameter when you plant them out, you won’t have to worry about vernalization. However you want them to be close to this size, so the bulbs will get bigger. If you don’t plant them out until the weather has warmed up, you won’t have to worry about this anyway.
1. Use only the largest, healthiest seedlings and plant them 1˝ deep. Some people cut off part of the top and root before transplanting, but the logic of reducing their root and leaf area seems dubious and probably isn’t a good idea.
Planting Sets: This is pretty straightforward. Some gardeners sort out their sets and use the small ones for bulb onions and larger ones for scallions (these are more likely to bolt).
1. Simply place them on the ground (right side up) at the proper 4" to 5" spacing. You can then see the spacing easily and adjust it as necessary.
2. Then use your finger to push the sets down into the soil 1" in depth and close up the hole.
Cold, Cool, Warm, Long days: Correct timing is important with bulb onions, if you don't plant them at the right time they won't do very well. The best onions are grown from transplants set out in October or November and wintered over to mature in June and July. Plant transplants right away, if possible. Transplants are happy if you apply a light mulch to help conserve moisture for uniform growth.
When outdoor temp: 55°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Onion seed takes a month to germinate at 40 degrees, but only 2 weeks at 50 degrees, so you don't necessarily lose much time by waiting until the soil has warmed up a little.
Spacing: 3-4", 9 plants per sq ft. Spacing has a direct effect on the final size of the bulbs. A wider spacing results in larger bulbs than a smaller spacing, but of course you get less of them. For maximum production of food you should plant fairly closely. The individual bulbs may be fairly small, but you will get a lot more of them.
Support: No
Start Outdoors
When outdoor temp: 55°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Onion seed takes a month to germinate at 40 degrees, but only 2 weeks at 50 degrees, so you don't necessarily lose much time by waiting until the soil has warmed up a little.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cold soil. In warmer soil sow a 1/2" deep.
Spacing: 3-4", 9 plants per sq ft. Spacing has a direct effect on the final size of the bulbs. A wider spacing results in larger bulbs than a smaller spacing, but of course you get less of them. For maximum production of food you should plant fairly closely. The individual bulbs may be fairly small, but you will get a lot more of them.
Spring Crop:
4-6 weeks before last frost date: Onions are very hardy and can be direct sown in early spring, as soon as the ground can be worked. This is slower than transplanting of course, but easier, and can work well in cooler areas.
1. Sow Onions 1/4" to 1/2" deep and 1/3" apart, in rows 4"-5" apart across the bed.
2. Keep the soil moist and free of crusting.
3. When all seedlings have emerged they must be thinned to stand 4" apart.
Growing your own Onions as sets is easier than you might imagine and has the advantage in that you can grow whatever variety you want.
1. Simply scatter the seed on a prepared bed in spring, 1/4˝ apart and cover with 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ of sifted soil/compost.
2. Don’t feed the plants and go lightly on the watering. Because they are growing so close together they will crowd and stunt each other.
3. When the tops turn brown, dig and dry the small bulbs for at least 10 days.
4. Store your sets in the fridge or root cellar (below 40˚ F). Sets with a diameter of less than 1˝ are the best, as they are less likely to bolt.
Fall Crop:
10-12 weeks before first frost date: One way to give the plants more time for vegetative growth in spring is to start them in autumn. This gives the plants longer to grow and so results in larger bulbs. Time your planting so the seedlings are well established before frost arrives.
1. Sow Onions 1/4" to 1/2" deep and 1/3" apart, in rows 4"-5" apart across the bed.
2. Keep the soil moist and free of crusting.
3. When all seedlings have emerged they must be thinned to stand 4" apart.
Growing your own Onions as sets is easier than you might imagine and has the advantage in that you can grow whatever variety you want.
1. Simply scatter the seed on a prepared bed 1/4˝ apart and cover with 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ of sifted soil/compost.
2. Don’t feed the plants and go lightly on the watering. Because they are growing so close together they will crowd and stunt each other.
3. When the tops turn brown, dig and dry the small bulbs for at least 10 days.
4. Store your sets in the fridge or root cellar (below 40˚ F). Sets with a diameter of less than 1˝ are the best, as they are less likely to bolt.
Support: No
Planting: There are several ways to grow onions. You can use seed, transplants or sets. All of these are fully hardy and can be planted as soon as the soil is workable in spring. When you first try growing onions it isn't a bad idea to use two different planting methods at the same time to see which works best for you.
Seed: Growing your own Onions from seed gives you the greatest choice of varieties. The problem with Onion seeds is that they are slow, growing only half as fast as lettuce, so you have to start them early. Onion seed is also the shortest lived of all common vegetables, so it is important that they are fresh. You can use seed to grow sets or transplants, or to sow directly in the ground.
Onion sets: These are small onion bulbs (3/8" to 3/4" in diameter) grown in crowded conditions so as to induce premature bulbing. They are the easiest way to grow onions, as you don't have to worry about germination, and actually start with a small bulb.
Buying sets: Every spring, sets are readily available in every garden center, so they are probably the common way to grow onions. The biggest problem with buying sets is that there are very few varieties available (some packages don't even say what type they are). However, if you buy them locally they should work well.
Growing sets: This is easier than you might imagine and has the advantage of letting you grow whatever variety you want. Transplants: Using transplants gives you the largest onion bulbs and produces them a lot faster than by direct sowing. You can start these yourself in mid winter or buy them mail order.
Water Needs: Moderate. Onions are quite drought tolerant, but a lack of water makes the bulb smaller and more pungent. For best flavor and largest bulbs you must keep the soil moist at all times, so there is no interruption in growth.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Low nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Onions don't need a lot of nitrogen, but they do like potassium and phosphorus.
Side Dressing, regularly: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., regularly, every 3 weeks. The plants need easily available nutrients to keep the plants growing rapidly, so give them a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed) every 3 weeks.
Weeding, after sowing: after sowing, every 3 weeks. Onions don’t produce much foliage or get very big, so they can’t compete with weeds very well. This means that competition from weeds can be a major problem, especially for direct sown crops. It is critical that they are weeded carefully for at least their first two months in the ground (then apply a mulch to keep weeds down). It's best to weed your onions by hand, as their shallow roots are easily damaged by careless hoeing.
Side Dressing, after planting: Mulch, 2 inch(es), after planting, 1 time.
OPTIONAL: Onion foliage is very sparse and doesn’t shade the soil very much, so a mulch is helpful to conserve soil moisture and keep down weeds. It will also insulate the soil however, so don’t apply it until the soil has warmed up. If you have slugs and snails you probably won't want to mulch, since it will provide the pests with habitat as they feast on your onions.
Watering, after planting: Water, 0.5 inch after planting, 2 times a week Onions should receive frequent shallow watering (there’s no point watering these shallow rooted plants very deeply). It is best to water in the morning so the tops can dry out quickly, as this reduces the potential for downy mildew. Stop watering the bulbs when they stop enlarging, they need to be dry for curing.
Pruning, before flowering: before flowering, 1 time. Remove any flower stalks that appear so all of the plants energy can go into nourishing bulb growth.
Support: No
Harvesting
Storage
Store the bulbs in mesh bags (old panty hose works well), or make Onion braids. Keep them in a cool, dry place at 32 to 50˚ F and 60% humidity. Excessive moisture can encourage sprouting.
Onion braids look great hanging in the kitchen, but it is too warm and dry to store them there for any length of time (they will dry out). You could make small braids and bring them into the kitchen as you need them.
Storage Req: Cool
Storage Temp: 32-50°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Onions are biennial and will flower in the spring of their second year. In mild climates you can leave the bulbs in the ground over the winter, but in cold climates you will have to store them inside and re-plant them in spring.
Use the best onions you have for seed. Larger bulbs produce larger flowers (they sometimes get to 4 feet in height) and more seed.
Make sure the flower heads are thoroughly dry before collecting seed, then remove the seed from the head and dry it thoroughly before storing. Onion seed doesn't remain viable for very long; 2 or 3 years at the most.
Seed Viability in Years: 1 - 4 Years
Germination Percentage: 70%
Companion Planting
Culinary Use: Cut off the root and top along with removing the outermost skin to prepare for cooking. Yellow onions are best used for soup stock, stews, braising, sauteing, and onion rings. No kitchen is complete without yellow onions.
Bulb: raw or cooked. A very versatile food, the bulb can be 10 cm or more in diameter and is widely used in most countries of the world. Eaten raw, it can be sliced up and used in salads, sandwich fillings etc, it can be baked or boiled as a vegetable in its own right and is also commonly used as a flavoring in soups, stews and many other cooked dishes. Some cultivars have been selected for their smaller and often hotter bulbs and these are used for making pickles.
Leaves: raw or cooked. There are some cultivars, the spring onions, that have been selected for their leaves and are used in salads whilst still young and actively growing - the bulb is much smaller than in other cultivars and is usually eaten with the leaves. By successional sowing, they can be available at any time of the year.
Flowers: raw. Used as a garnish on salads. The flowers are somewhat dry and are less pleasant than many other species. The seeds are sprouted and eaten. They have a delicious onion flavor.
Known Hazards: There have been cases of poisoning caused by the consumption, in large quantities and by some mammals, of this plant. Dogs seem to be particularly susceptible.
Medicinal
poultice to remove pus from sores. Fresh onion juice is a very useful first aid treatment for bee and wasp stings, bites, grazes or fungal skin complaints. When warmed the juice can be dropped into the ear to treat earache. It also aids the formation of scar tissue on wounds, thus speeding up the healing process, and has been used as a cosmetic to remove freckles. Bulbs of red cultivars are harvested when mature in the summer and used to make a homeopathic remedy. This is used particularly in the treatment of people whose symptoms include running eyes and nose.
Companion Planting
Enemies: Keep onions away from peas and asparagus.
Problems
Slugs
To attract Earwigs to your garden you will need to grow: Celery (Apium graveolens), Beets (Beta vulgaris, Cabbages, Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea/Brassica rapa), Cucumber (Cucumis sativus), Dahlia, Carrot (Daucus carota), Carnation (Dianthus), Carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus), Strawberry (Fragaria ananassa), Hop (Humulus lupulus), Lettuce (Lactuca sativa), Lupin (Lupinus angustifolius), Apple (Malus domestica), Apricot (Prunus armeniaca), Sweet Cherry (Prunus avium), Plum (Prunus domestica), Peach (Prunus persica), European Pear (Pyrus communis), Rhubarb (Rheum hybridum), Roses (Rosa), Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum), Potato (Solanum tuberosum), Grapevine (Vitis vinifera), Corn (Zea mays), Zinnia.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado Potato Beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: Evening Primrose, Amaranthus, and Clover.
Onion Maggots
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rear end of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Thrips
To attract Big-eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Hoverflies: Preys on Aphids, Scale insects, Caterpillars, and Thrips.
To attract Hoverflies to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Prey on Spider Mites, Cabbage Looper, Insect Eggs, Caterpillars, Aphids, and Thrips.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Nutrition
The Health Benefits of Onions
Oral Care: Onions are often used to prevent tooth decay and oral infections. Chewing raw onions for 2 to 3 minutes can potentially kill all the germs present in the oral area and surrounding areas like the throat and lips.
Boost Immunity: The phytochemicals present in significant amounts in onions act as stimulants for vitamin C within the body. Vitamin C boosts your immune system by fighting against toxins and various foreign bodies that can lead to diseases and illness.
Treat Heart Ailments: Onions act as anticoagulants, also known as blood thinners, which prevent the red blood cells from forming clumps. These blocks and clots can lead to heart disorders or cardiovascular diseases.
Manage Diabetes: Onions contain chromium, which is a relatively unusual mineral to be found naturally in food. Chromium helps the body manage blood sugar levels and ensures a slow, gradual release of glucose to the muscles and body cells. Therefore, eating them can help modulate the blood sugar levels, which is vital for diabetic patients.
Used as Insect Repellent: You can apply onion juice to reduce the pain caused by honeybee stings. Fresh onion juice or paste can be used for external applications on insect bites and scorpion stings. The smell of onions also causes insects to flee, which is why they can be used as insect repellents as well as a form of sting treatment.
Prevent Cancer: Onions are rich in active compounds that successfully inhibit the development and spread of cancerous cells. They have a significant amount of quercetin, which is a very powerful antioxidant, consistently linked to the prevention or reduction of the spread of cancer.
Vitamin C, present in onions, is also a strong antioxidant that can reduce the presence and impact of free radicals in the body. Free radicals are the chemical by-products of cellular metabolism, and they can cause healthy cells to mutate into cancerous cells. Therefore, any food rich in antioxidants, which neutralize these free radicals, is beneficial for everyone.
Relieve Earaches: A few drops of onion juice may prove immensely beneficial to individuals suffering from an acute earache. The ringing sound in the ear may be cured by applying onion juice through a piece of cotton wool.
Skin Care: Onion juice mixed with honey or olive oil is said to be the best treatment for treating symptoms or signs of acne. It is also anti-inflammatory in nature, so the active compounds can reduce the redness and swelling that is commonly associated with skin conditions like acne. Onions also help reduce the associated pain and inflammation of conditions like gout and arthritis.
Treat Cough: Consuming an equal mixture of onion juice and honey can relieve sore throats and coughing symptoms.
Boost Sexual Drive: Onions are said to increase the urge for a healthy sex life. One tablespoon of onion juice along with one spoonful of ginger juice, taken three times a day, can boost libido and sex drive.
Treat Anemia: Even anemic conditions can be improved by eating onions along with jaggery and water because this adds to the mineral content of the body, especially iron, which is an essential part of producing new red blood cells. Therefore, anemia, also known as iron deficiency, can be prevented by including onion in your diet.onioninfographic
Relieve Stomach Aches: Onions have anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties that can relieve an upset stomach and related gastric syndromes. This is due to the saponins that are found in them. These saponins have anti-spasmodic capabilities, which ensure that stomach disturbances do not continue and that your bowels are clear and smoothly functioning.
Treat Urinary Disorders: For those suffering from a burning sensation during urination, onions can provide considerable relief. People suffering from this condition should drink boiled water with 6 to 7 grams of onions.
According to Peace Health, onions have long been used for treating various diseases such as tumors, persistent cough, and cold. Medical practitioners consider this plant form as a perfect home remedy for relieving various metabolic disorders and diseases. Peace Health further states that onion consumption can even help in the prevention of stomach and breast cancer.
Relieve Asthma: Medical studies have revealed that these sulfuric compounds stop biochemical chain formations that possibly lead to asthmatic conditions. The sulfuric content of onions facilitates the melting of phlegm in a patient suffering from severe coughing. Fresh onion juice is recommended for patients, who have lost consciousness, because of its aroma and inhalant qualities, which can induce immediate vigor and energy.
Suggested Varieties
Amaranth: Love Lies Bleeding (Heirloom) (Amaranthus caudatus)
Amaranth: Perfecta (Heirloom) (Amaranthus Tricolor 'Perfecta')
Amaranth: Red Garnet (Heirloom) (Amaranthus tricolor)
Balm: Lemon (Melissa officinalis)
Beets: Cylindra (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris)
Beets: Detroit Dark Red (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris)
Beets: Golden Detroit (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris)
Beets seem to have originated in the Mediterranean region, where people grew them for thousands of years. Later, beets grew in Germany and Holland and were used as cattle fodder; they were later imported to England for this purpose, but the poor began to raise them for an affordable food source. American colonists later brought them to the New World, where they became a commonly enjoyed food both for their roots and their greens. According to historians, George Washington experimented with beets, cross-pollinating them to create new varieties.
Bergamot: Wild (Monarda fistulosa)
Broccoli: Green Sprouting Calabrese (Organic) (Brassica oleracea var. italica)
Broccoli: Purple Sprouting (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. italica)
Broccoli: Waltham 29 (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. italica)
Brussels Sprout: Long Island Improved (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. gemmifera)
Cabbage: Early Jersey Wakefield (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
Cabbage: Late Flat Dutch (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
Cabbage: Red Acre (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
Cabbage is considered one of the oldest cultivated vegetables, since historians trace it back to 4,000 BC in China. The Romans also cultivated it and praised it for its healing qualities; philosophers Pythagoras and Cato both made the lowly cabbage the subject of a book. Jacques Cartier brought the first cabbage to America in 1536. Cabbages were quite popular in colonial America, being pickled and preserved in every possible way to provide food for the winter.
Cabbage, Chinese: Pak Choi (Heirloom) (Brassica rapa var. chinensis)
Caraway (Carum carvi)
Carrots: Chantenay Red Cored (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Cosmic Purple (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Danvers (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Rainbow Blend (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Scarlet Nantes (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Tendersweet (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Cauliflower: Snowball Y Improved (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. botrytis)
Celery: Tendercrisp (Heirloom) (Apium graveolens var. dulce)
Celery: Utah Tall 52/70 (Heirloom) (Apium graveolens var. dulce)
Chamomile: Common German (Matricaria recutita)
Chamomile: Roman (Anthemis nobilis)
Clover: Crimson (Trifolium incarnatum)
Clover: Purple Prairie (Dalea purpurea)
Collards: Vates (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. acephala)
Coriander: Leisure (Coriandrum sativum)
Corn: Country Gentleman-Open Pollinated (Heirloom) (Zea mays)
Corn: Golden Bantam-Open Pollinated (Heirloom) (Zea mays)
Corn, Popcorn: Shaman's Blue (Hybrid) Open Pollinated (Zea mays)
Sold out
Blue corn originated in the Andes Mountains of Peru, where the native peoples usually ground it into flour for cooking. Indians of Mexico and the southwestern United States also widely used this corn, since its dryness made it an excellent flour corn and gave it good resistance to disease. This exciting blue popcorn receives high marks for both visual and taste appeal. The unique blue/purple kernel pops into mounds of snow white popcorn that will satisfy any popcorn lover with its slightly sweet flavor.
Corn, Popcorn: South American Yellow (Zea mays)
According to evidence found by archaeologists on the northern coast of Peru, popcorn was a staple in the ancient civilizations of South America. Popcorn also grew above the border, and it once occupied a space in nearly every American garden. At the beginning of the twentieth century, 52 varieties of popcorn were offered by the seed catalogs of the time. A wise choice for popcorn lovers! This prolific variety bears 2-3, 6-9 inch ears per plant. When popped, the large yellow kernels produce a buttery tasting popcorn.
Corn, Popcorn: Strawberry Red (Zea Mays)
Although it's exact origin is unknown, it is believed that Strawberry Red Popcorn was domesticated by the Olmec and the Mayans. Not only is this amazing variety edible, but it is just as decorative. Each plant grows to 5-6' and bares two or so 2-3" strawberry shaped ears that are covered with brilliant burgundy kernels! Your mind will be blown as you watch the red kernels pop into white popcorn with in the blink of eye!
Cucumber: Lemon (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: Marketmore 76' (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: Mexican Sour Gherkin (Heirloom) (Melothria scabra)
Cucumber: National Pickling (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: Straight Eight (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: Sumter (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: White Wonder (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
This high yielding ivory white cucumber variety was introduced into the U.S. and first offered by Burpee Seed Company in 1893. White Wonder Cucumbers are delicious raw, in salads, or pickled.
Cucumber: Wisconsin SMR 58 (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Dill: Dukat (Anethum graveolens)
Fennel: Florence (Foeniculum vulgare var. azoricum)
Kale: Lacinato (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea - Acephala Group)
Kale: Ornamental (Hybrid) (Brassica oleracea - Acephala Group)
Ornamental Kale provides amazing color from early fall well into winter with frilly green outer leaves and pink, white or purple centers. As the rest of the flowers in the garden are dying down, Ornamental Kale is just getting started!
Kale: Red Russian (Heirloom) (Brassica Oleracea - Acephala Group)
Kohlrabi: Purple Vienna (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. gongylodes)
Leeks: Giant Musselburg (Heirloom) (Allium porrum)
Lettuce: Bibb (Heirloom) (Lactuca sativa)
Lettuce: Freckles Romaine (Heirloom) (Lactuca sativa)
Only a few left!
Lettuce: Oakleaf (Heirloom) (Lactuca sativa)
Lettuce: Red Romaine (Heirloom) (Lactuca sativa)
Mint: Pennyroyal (Mentha Pulegium)
Mint: Spear (Mentha spicata)
Sold out
Mustard: Red Giant (Heirloom) (Brassica juncea)
Mustard greens originated near the Himalayan region of northern India, where they have been growing for thousands of years. Chinese, Japanese, and African cuisine also make use of this peppery vegetable. Though not particularly well known in most parts of the United States, mustard greens are a traditional part of culture in the southern region.
Mustard: Tendergreen (Heirloom) (Brassica rapa var. perviridis)
Mustard greens originated near the Himalayan region of northern India, where they have been growing for thousands of years. Chinese, Japanese, and African cuisine also make use of this peppery vegetable. Though not particularly well known in most parts of the United States, mustard greens are a traditional part of culture in the southern region.
Parsley: Hamburg Rooted (Heirloom) (Petroselinum crispum var. tuberosum)
Parsley: Italian Giant (Heirloom) (Petroselinum crispum var. neapolitanum)
Penstemon: Rocky Mountain (Penstemon strictus)
Sold out
Poached Egg Plant (Limnanthes douglasii)
This native species was first discovered by David Douglas, a Scottish botanist commissioned to collect native American plants suitable for the gardens of Great Britain. The species name "douglasii" honors his discovery, while the genus name "Limnanthes" means "marsh flower" because of this plant's preference for moist soil. This fragrant butterfly magnet has been awarded the Royal Horticultural Society's prestigious Award of Garden Merit.