Onions: Sweet Spanish White (Heirloom) (Allium cepa)
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Spain, the leading onion producer of western Europe, consumes more onions than any other European country; their cuisine cannot be Spanish without onions. The most well known sweet onions of America such as the Vidalia and Grano types have their roots in the sweet onions of Spain, such as this Sweet Spanish variety.
Scientific Name: Allium cepa.
Ease of Growing: Moderate
Grown as: Biennial
Days to Maturity: 110 days
Hardiness: Hardy. Onions are very hardy and can be frost tolerant.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Spring, Fall Transplant, Fall
Growing Season: Long
Growing Conditions: Cold, Cool, Warm, Long days. Correct timing is important with bulb onions, if you don't plant them at the right time they won't do very well. The best onions are grown from transplants set out in October or November and wintered over to mature in June and July. Plant transplants right away, if possible. Transplants are happy if you apply a light mulch to help conserve moisture for uniform growth.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 55°F - 80°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 50°F. Onion seed takes a month to germinate at 40 degrees, but only 2 weeks at 50 degrees, so you don't necessarily lose much time by waiting until the soil has warmed up a little.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Cold, Cool, Warm). Full sun.
Water: Moderate. Onions are quite drought tolerant, but a lack of water makes the bulb smaller and more pungent. For best flavor and largest bulbs you must keep the soil moist at all times, so there is no interruption in growth.
Feeder: Light. Low nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Onions don't need a lot of nitrogen, but they do like potassium and phosphorus.
Suitability: Drought tolerant, Tolerates light frost
Small Gardens?: Yes
Containers?: Yes. Onions can be grown easily in containers. Make sure they have good drainage and the pot is at least 12" deep. Fill with a mixture of potting soil and compost, and water thoroughly. Make sure that your onions have access to plenty of sunshine. Keep the soil moist.
Attracts beneficial insects?: No
Maintenance: Medium
Plant Height: 18-24"
Spacing: 4-6"
Sow Depth: 1/2"
Produces: round, white onions of a large size. Long day variety.
Hardiness Zones: 3-11
Ease of Growing: Moderate
Grown as: Biennial
Days to Maturity: 110 days
Hardiness: Hardy. Onions are very hardy and can be frost tolerant.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Spring, Fall Transplant, Fall
Growing Season: Long
Growing Conditions: Cold, Cool, Warm, Long days. Correct timing is important with bulb onions, if you don't plant them at the right time they won't do very well. The best onions are grown from transplants set out in October or November and wintered over to mature in June and July. Plant transplants right away, if possible. Transplants are happy if you apply a light mulch to help conserve moisture for uniform growth.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 55°F - 80°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 50°F. Onion seed takes a month to germinate at 40 degrees, but only 2 weeks at 50 degrees, so you don't necessarily lose much time by waiting until the soil has warmed up a little.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Cold, Cool, Warm). Full sun.
Water: Moderate. Onions are quite drought tolerant, but a lack of water makes the bulb smaller and more pungent. For best flavor and largest bulbs you must keep the soil moist at all times, so there is no interruption in growth.
Feeder: Light. Low nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Onions don't need a lot of nitrogen, but they do like potassium and phosphorus.
Suitability: Drought tolerant, Tolerates light frost
Small Gardens?: Yes
Containers?: Yes. Onions can be grown easily in containers. Make sure they have good drainage and the pot is at least 12" deep. Fill with a mixture of potting soil and compost, and water thoroughly. Make sure that your onions have access to plenty of sunshine. Keep the soil moist.
Attracts beneficial insects?: No
Maintenance: Medium
Plant Height: 18-24"
Spacing: 4-6"
Sow Depth: 1/2"
Produces: round, white onions of a large size. Long day variety.
Hardiness Zones: 3-11
Soil Preparation
Soil Preference:
Soil pH: 6.0-7.5, Ideal 6.8-7.0. Onions don't need a lot of nutrients, but they aren't very efficient feeders (their roots are weak and shallow), so you have make sure they have plenty available. For example, they only need about 150 pounds of nitrogen per acre, but you may have to add 300 pounds for them to get even that much. Onions do best in a loose, rich, moisture retentive soil with lots of organic matter. They don't like compacted, heavy, dry, acid, salty, or poorly drained soils (their roots may rot if it is too wet).
Soil Preparation:
Lime (Calcium), 5 pound(s) per 100 sq. ft., in top 6" of soil, 1 time: OPTIONAL: Onions don't like acidic soil, so add dolomitic limestone if necessary. The quantity needed will vary according to soil type, but 5 pounds per 100 square feet is a typical application.
Standard Mix, 5 pound(s) per 100 sq. ft., in top 6" of soil, 1 time: A standard mix will supply any additional nutrients required. Incorporate it into the soil along with the compost. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Compost (Nitrogen), 2", in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Prepare the soil by incorporating 2˝ of compost or aged manure into the top 6˝ of soil, which is where most of their feeder roots are to be found. For an early spring planting you could do this in fall, using fresh manure if necessary.
Soil pH: 6.0-7.5, Ideal 6.8-7.0. Onions don't need a lot of nutrients, but they aren't very efficient feeders (their roots are weak and shallow), so you have make sure they have plenty available. For example, they only need about 150 pounds of nitrogen per acre, but you may have to add 300 pounds for them to get even that much. Onions do best in a loose, rich, moisture retentive soil with lots of organic matter. They don't like compacted, heavy, dry, acid, salty, or poorly drained soils (their roots may rot if it is too wet).
Soil Preparation:
Lime (Calcium), 5 pound(s) per 100 sq. ft., in top 6" of soil, 1 time: OPTIONAL: Onions don't like acidic soil, so add dolomitic limestone if necessary. The quantity needed will vary according to soil type, but 5 pounds per 100 square feet is a typical application.
Standard Mix, 5 pound(s) per 100 sq. ft., in top 6" of soil, 1 time: A standard mix will supply any additional nutrients required. Incorporate it into the soil along with the compost. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
- 4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
- 2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
- 2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
- 1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
- 1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Compost (Nitrogen), 2", in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Prepare the soil by incorporating 2˝ of compost or aged manure into the top 6˝ of soil, which is where most of their feeder roots are to be found. For an early spring planting you could do this in fall, using fresh manure if necessary.
Start Indoors
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cold soil. In warmer soil sow a 1/2" deep.
Soil temp for germination: 50°F to 85°F, optimal 60°F to 70°F, optimal 68°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 16 (Spring/Summer), 30 to 34 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
22 weeks before first frost date: Onions must be started early if they are to get big before the long summer days trigger bulbing. The longer the plants grow before bulbing, the bigger the bulb can get. Onions don’t mind transplanting, in fact it may even encourage good root growth. Start the seeds about 10 to 12 weeks before planting out time.
1. Plant in flats or drills, 1/4˝ apart and 1/2˝ deep (cover with a sifted soil / compost mix). You can grow a lot of plants in a small area. The plants will germinate much quicker if you put them in a warm place (75 to 80˚ F).
2. Keep the soil moist and free of crusting.
3. Once they have germinated they should be put in a cool place (60 to 70˚ F), as this gives you stockier, hardier plants.
Germinate:
16 weeks before last frost date: Onions must be started early if they are to get big before the long summer days trigger bulbing. The longer the plants grow before bulbing, the bigger the bulb can get. Onions don’t mind transplanting, in fact it may even encourage good root growth. Start the seeds about 10 to 12 weeks before planting out time.
1. Plant in flats or drills, 1/4˝ apart and 1/2˝ deep (cover with a sifted soil / compost mix). You can grow a lot of plants in a small area. The plants will germinate much quicker if you put them in a warm place (75 to 80˚ F).
2. Keep the soil moist and free of crusting.
3. Once they have germinated they should be put in a cool place (60 to 70˚ F), as this gives you stockier, hardier plants.
Soil temp for germination: 50°F to 85°F, optimal 60°F to 70°F, optimal 68°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 16 (Spring/Summer), 30 to 34 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
22 weeks before first frost date: Onions must be started early if they are to get big before the long summer days trigger bulbing. The longer the plants grow before bulbing, the bigger the bulb can get. Onions don’t mind transplanting, in fact it may even encourage good root growth. Start the seeds about 10 to 12 weeks before planting out time.
1. Plant in flats or drills, 1/4˝ apart and 1/2˝ deep (cover with a sifted soil / compost mix). You can grow a lot of plants in a small area. The plants will germinate much quicker if you put them in a warm place (75 to 80˚ F).
2. Keep the soil moist and free of crusting.
3. Once they have germinated they should be put in a cool place (60 to 70˚ F), as this gives you stockier, hardier plants.
Germinate:
16 weeks before last frost date: Onions must be started early if they are to get big before the long summer days trigger bulbing. The longer the plants grow before bulbing, the bigger the bulb can get. Onions don’t mind transplanting, in fact it may even encourage good root growth. Start the seeds about 10 to 12 weeks before planting out time.
1. Plant in flats or drills, 1/4˝ apart and 1/2˝ deep (cover with a sifted soil / compost mix). You can grow a lot of plants in a small area. The plants will germinate much quicker if you put them in a warm place (75 to 80˚ F).
2. Keep the soil moist and free of crusting.
3. Once they have germinated they should be put in a cool place (60 to 70˚ F), as this gives you stockier, hardier plants.
Transplant Outdoors
4-6 weeks before last frost date: Planting Seedlings If the stems are smaller than 1/4˝ diameter when you plant them out, you won’t have to worry about vernalization. However you want them to be close to this size, so the bulbs will get bigger. If you don’t plant them out until the weather has warmed up, you won’t have to worry about this anyway.
1. Use only the largest, healthiest seedlings and plant them 1˝ deep. Some people cut off part of the top and root before transplanting, but the logic of reducing their root and leaf area seems dubious and probably isn’t a good idea.
Planting Sets: This is pretty straightforward. Some gardeners sort out their sets and use the small ones for bulb onions and larger ones for scallions (these are more likely to bolt).
1. Simply place them on the ground (right side up) at the proper 4" to 5" spacing. You can then see the spacing easily and adjust it as necessary.
2. Then use your finger to push the sets down into the soil 1" in depth and close up the hole.
10-12 weeks before first frost date: One way to give the plants more time for vegetative growth in spring is to start them in autumn. This gives the plants longer to grow and so results in larger bulbs. Time your planting so the seedlings are well established before frost arrives.
Planting Seedlings: If the stems are smaller than 1/4˝ diameter when you plant them out, you won’t have to worry about vernalization. However you want them to be close to this size, so the bulbs will get bigger. If you don’t plant them out until the weather has warmed up, you won’t have to worry about this anyway.
1. Use only the largest, healthiest seedlings and plant them 1˝ deep. Some people cut off part of the top and root before transplanting, but the logic of reducing their root and leaf area seems dubious and probably isn’t a good idea.
Planting Sets: This is pretty straightforward. Some gardeners sort out their sets and use the small ones for bulb onions and larger ones for scallions (these are more likely to bolt).
1. Simply place them on the ground (right side up) at the proper 4" to 5" spacing. You can then see the spacing easily and adjust it as necessary.
2. Then use your finger to push the sets down into the soil 1" in depth and close up the hole.
Cold, Cool, Warm, Long days: Correct timing is important with bulb onions, if you don't plant them at the right time they won't do very well. The best onions are grown from transplants set out in October or November and wintered over to mature in June and July. Plant transplants right away, if possible. Transplants are happy if you apply a light mulch to help conserve moisture for uniform growth.
When outdoor temp: 55°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Onion seed takes a month to germinate at 40 degrees, but only 2 weeks at 50 degrees, so you don't necessarily lose much time by waiting until the soil has warmed up a little.
Spacing: 3-4", 9 plants per sq ft. Spacing has a direct effect on the final size of the bulbs. A wider spacing results in larger bulbs than a smaller spacing, but of course you get less of them. For maximum production of food you should plant fairly closely. The individual bulbs may be fairly small, but you will get a lot more of them.
Support: No
1. Use only the largest, healthiest seedlings and plant them 1˝ deep. Some people cut off part of the top and root before transplanting, but the logic of reducing their root and leaf area seems dubious and probably isn’t a good idea.
Planting Sets: This is pretty straightforward. Some gardeners sort out their sets and use the small ones for bulb onions and larger ones for scallions (these are more likely to bolt).
1. Simply place them on the ground (right side up) at the proper 4" to 5" spacing. You can then see the spacing easily and adjust it as necessary.
2. Then use your finger to push the sets down into the soil 1" in depth and close up the hole.
10-12 weeks before first frost date: One way to give the plants more time for vegetative growth in spring is to start them in autumn. This gives the plants longer to grow and so results in larger bulbs. Time your planting so the seedlings are well established before frost arrives.
Planting Seedlings: If the stems are smaller than 1/4˝ diameter when you plant them out, you won’t have to worry about vernalization. However you want them to be close to this size, so the bulbs will get bigger. If you don’t plant them out until the weather has warmed up, you won’t have to worry about this anyway.
1. Use only the largest, healthiest seedlings and plant them 1˝ deep. Some people cut off part of the top and root before transplanting, but the logic of reducing their root and leaf area seems dubious and probably isn’t a good idea.
Planting Sets: This is pretty straightforward. Some gardeners sort out their sets and use the small ones for bulb onions and larger ones for scallions (these are more likely to bolt).
1. Simply place them on the ground (right side up) at the proper 4" to 5" spacing. You can then see the spacing easily and adjust it as necessary.
2. Then use your finger to push the sets down into the soil 1" in depth and close up the hole.
Cold, Cool, Warm, Long days: Correct timing is important with bulb onions, if you don't plant them at the right time they won't do very well. The best onions are grown from transplants set out in October or November and wintered over to mature in June and July. Plant transplants right away, if possible. Transplants are happy if you apply a light mulch to help conserve moisture for uniform growth.
When outdoor temp: 55°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Onion seed takes a month to germinate at 40 degrees, but only 2 weeks at 50 degrees, so you don't necessarily lose much time by waiting until the soil has warmed up a little.
Spacing: 3-4", 9 plants per sq ft. Spacing has a direct effect on the final size of the bulbs. A wider spacing results in larger bulbs than a smaller spacing, but of course you get less of them. For maximum production of food you should plant fairly closely. The individual bulbs may be fairly small, but you will get a lot more of them.
Support: No
Start Outdoors
When Cold, Cool, Warm, Long days: Correct timing is important with bulb onions, if you don't plant them at the right time they won't do very well. The best onions are grown from transplants set out in October or November and wintered over to mature in June and July. Plant transplants right away, if possible. Transplants are happy if you apply a light mulch to help conserve moisture for uniform growth.
When outdoor temp: 55°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Onion seed takes a month to germinate at 40 degrees, but only 2 weeks at 50 degrees, so you don't necessarily lose much time by waiting until the soil has warmed up a little.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cold soil. In warmer soil sow a 1/2" deep.
Spacing: 3-4", 9 plants per sq ft. Spacing has a direct effect on the final size of the bulbs. A wider spacing results in larger bulbs than a smaller spacing, but of course you get less of them. For maximum production of food you should plant fairly closely. The individual bulbs may be fairly small, but you will get a lot more of them.
Spring Crop:
4-6 weeks before last frost date: Onions are very hardy and can be direct sown in early spring, as soon as the ground can be worked. This is slower than transplanting of course, but easier, and can work well in cooler areas.
1. Sow Onions 1/4" to 1/2" deep and 1/3" apart, in rows 4"-5" apart across the bed.
2. Keep the soil moist and free of crusting.
3. When all seedlings have emerged they must be thinned to stand 4" apart.
Growing your own Onions as sets is easier than you might imagine and has the advantage in that you can grow whatever variety you want.
1. Simply scatter the seed on a prepared bed in spring, 1/4˝ apart and cover with 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ of sifted soil/compost.
2. Don’t feed the plants and go lightly on the watering. Because they are growing so close together they will crowd and stunt each other.
3. When the tops turn brown, dig and dry the small bulbs for at least 10 days.
4. Store your sets in the fridge or root cellar (below 40˚ F). Sets with a diameter of less than 1˝ are the best, as they are less likely to bolt.
Fall Crop:
10-12 weeks before first frost date: One way to give the plants more time for vegetative growth in spring is to start them in autumn. This gives the plants longer to grow and so results in larger bulbs. Time your planting so the seedlings are well established before frost arrives.
1. Sow Onions 1/4" to 1/2" deep and 1/3" apart, in rows 4"-5" apart across the bed.
2. Keep the soil moist and free of crusting.
3. When all seedlings have emerged they must be thinned to stand 4" apart.
Growing your own Onions as sets is easier than you might imagine and has the advantage in that you can grow whatever variety you want.
1. Simply scatter the seed on a prepared bed 1/4˝ apart and cover with 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ of sifted soil/compost.
2. Don’t feed the plants and go lightly on the watering. Because they are growing so close together they will crowd and stunt each other.
3. When the tops turn brown, dig and dry the small bulbs for at least 10 days.
4. Store your sets in the fridge or root cellar (below 40˚ F). Sets with a diameter of less than 1˝ are the best, as they are less likely to bolt.
Support: No
When outdoor temp: 55°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Onion seed takes a month to germinate at 40 degrees, but only 2 weeks at 50 degrees, so you don't necessarily lose much time by waiting until the soil has warmed up a little.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cold soil. In warmer soil sow a 1/2" deep.
Spacing: 3-4", 9 plants per sq ft. Spacing has a direct effect on the final size of the bulbs. A wider spacing results in larger bulbs than a smaller spacing, but of course you get less of them. For maximum production of food you should plant fairly closely. The individual bulbs may be fairly small, but you will get a lot more of them.
Spring Crop:
4-6 weeks before last frost date: Onions are very hardy and can be direct sown in early spring, as soon as the ground can be worked. This is slower than transplanting of course, but easier, and can work well in cooler areas.
1. Sow Onions 1/4" to 1/2" deep and 1/3" apart, in rows 4"-5" apart across the bed.
2. Keep the soil moist and free of crusting.
3. When all seedlings have emerged they must be thinned to stand 4" apart.
Growing your own Onions as sets is easier than you might imagine and has the advantage in that you can grow whatever variety you want.
1. Simply scatter the seed on a prepared bed in spring, 1/4˝ apart and cover with 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ of sifted soil/compost.
2. Don’t feed the plants and go lightly on the watering. Because they are growing so close together they will crowd and stunt each other.
3. When the tops turn brown, dig and dry the small bulbs for at least 10 days.
4. Store your sets in the fridge or root cellar (below 40˚ F). Sets with a diameter of less than 1˝ are the best, as they are less likely to bolt.
Fall Crop:
10-12 weeks before first frost date: One way to give the plants more time for vegetative growth in spring is to start them in autumn. This gives the plants longer to grow and so results in larger bulbs. Time your planting so the seedlings are well established before frost arrives.
1. Sow Onions 1/4" to 1/2" deep and 1/3" apart, in rows 4"-5" apart across the bed.
2. Keep the soil moist and free of crusting.
3. When all seedlings have emerged they must be thinned to stand 4" apart.
Growing your own Onions as sets is easier than you might imagine and has the advantage in that you can grow whatever variety you want.
1. Simply scatter the seed on a prepared bed 1/4˝ apart and cover with 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ of sifted soil/compost.
2. Don’t feed the plants and go lightly on the watering. Because they are growing so close together they will crowd and stunt each other.
3. When the tops turn brown, dig and dry the small bulbs for at least 10 days.
4. Store your sets in the fridge or root cellar (below 40˚ F). Sets with a diameter of less than 1˝ are the best, as they are less likely to bolt.
Support: No
Onions should grow as fast as possible, so by the time the day length is right for bulbing-they will have stored enough food to produce large bulbs. This means spacing them properly and giving them all the nutrients and water they need. The most important thing to remember about growing this biennial is that it is day length sensitive. It is programmed to produce bulbs when the appropriate day length arrives, no matter how big or small it is. It is your job as a gardener to get the plants as big as possible before the onset of bulbing. To do this you must use a variety that is appropriate for the day length of your location. You should also plant them as early as is safe, so they can put on the maximum amount of vegetative growth before bulbing.
Planting: There are several ways to grow onions. You can use seed, transplants or sets. All of these are fully hardy and can be planted as soon as the soil is workable in spring. When you first try growing onions it isn't a bad idea to use two different planting methods at the same time to see which works best for you.
Seed: Growing your own Onions from seed gives you the greatest choice of varieties. The problem with Onion seeds is that they are slow, growing only half as fast as lettuce, so you have to start them early. Onion seed is also the shortest lived of all common vegetables, so it is important that they are fresh. You can use seed to grow sets or transplants, or to sow directly in the ground.
Onion sets: These are small onion bulbs (3/8" to 3/4" in diameter) grown in crowded conditions so as to induce premature bulbing. They are the easiest way to grow onions, as you don't have to worry about germination, and actually start with a small bulb.
Buying sets: Every spring, sets are readily available in every garden center, so they are probably the common way to grow onions. The biggest problem with buying sets is that there are very few varieties available (some packages don't even say what type they are). However, if you buy them locally they should work well.
Growing sets: This is easier than you might imagine and has the advantage of letting you grow whatever variety you want. Transplants: Using transplants gives you the largest onion bulbs and produces them a lot faster than by direct sowing. You can start these yourself in mid winter or buy them mail order.
Water Needs: Moderate. Onions are quite drought tolerant, but a lack of water makes the bulb smaller and more pungent. For best flavor and largest bulbs you must keep the soil moist at all times, so there is no interruption in growth.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Low nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Onions don't need a lot of nitrogen, but they do like potassium and phosphorus.
Side Dressing, regularly: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., regularly, every 3 weeks. The plants need easily available nutrients to keep the plants growing rapidly, so give them a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed) every 3 weeks.
Weeding, after sowing: after sowing, every 3 weeks. Onions don’t produce much foliage or get very big, so they can’t compete with weeds very well. This means that competition from weeds can be a major problem, especially for direct sown crops. It is critical that they are weeded carefully for at least their first two months in the ground (then apply a mulch to keep weeds down). It's best to weed your onions by hand, as their shallow roots are easily damaged by careless hoeing.
Side Dressing, after planting: Mulch, 2 inch(es), after planting, 1 time.
OPTIONAL: Onion foliage is very sparse and doesn’t shade the soil very much, so a mulch is helpful to conserve soil moisture and keep down weeds. It will also insulate the soil however, so don’t apply it until the soil has warmed up. If you have slugs and snails you probably won't want to mulch, since it will provide the pests with habitat as they feast on your onions.
Watering, after planting: Water, 0.5 inch after planting, 2 times a week Onions should receive frequent shallow watering (there’s no point watering these shallow rooted plants very deeply). It is best to water in the morning so the tops can dry out quickly, as this reduces the potential for downy mildew. Stop watering the bulbs when they stop enlarging, they need to be dry for curing.
Pruning, before flowering: before flowering, 1 time. Remove any flower stalks that appear so all of the plants energy can go into nourishing bulb growth.
Support: No
Planting: There are several ways to grow onions. You can use seed, transplants or sets. All of these are fully hardy and can be planted as soon as the soil is workable in spring. When you first try growing onions it isn't a bad idea to use two different planting methods at the same time to see which works best for you.
Seed: Growing your own Onions from seed gives you the greatest choice of varieties. The problem with Onion seeds is that they are slow, growing only half as fast as lettuce, so you have to start them early. Onion seed is also the shortest lived of all common vegetables, so it is important that they are fresh. You can use seed to grow sets or transplants, or to sow directly in the ground.
Onion sets: These are small onion bulbs (3/8" to 3/4" in diameter) grown in crowded conditions so as to induce premature bulbing. They are the easiest way to grow onions, as you don't have to worry about germination, and actually start with a small bulb.
Buying sets: Every spring, sets are readily available in every garden center, so they are probably the common way to grow onions. The biggest problem with buying sets is that there are very few varieties available (some packages don't even say what type they are). However, if you buy them locally they should work well.
Growing sets: This is easier than you might imagine and has the advantage of letting you grow whatever variety you want. Transplants: Using transplants gives you the largest onion bulbs and produces them a lot faster than by direct sowing. You can start these yourself in mid winter or buy them mail order.
Water Needs: Moderate. Onions are quite drought tolerant, but a lack of water makes the bulb smaller and more pungent. For best flavor and largest bulbs you must keep the soil moist at all times, so there is no interruption in growth.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Low nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Onions don't need a lot of nitrogen, but they do like potassium and phosphorus.
Side Dressing, regularly: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., regularly, every 3 weeks. The plants need easily available nutrients to keep the plants growing rapidly, so give them a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed) every 3 weeks.
Weeding, after sowing: after sowing, every 3 weeks. Onions don’t produce much foliage or get very big, so they can’t compete with weeds very well. This means that competition from weeds can be a major problem, especially for direct sown crops. It is critical that they are weeded carefully for at least their first two months in the ground (then apply a mulch to keep weeds down). It's best to weed your onions by hand, as their shallow roots are easily damaged by careless hoeing.
Side Dressing, after planting: Mulch, 2 inch(es), after planting, 1 time.
OPTIONAL: Onion foliage is very sparse and doesn’t shade the soil very much, so a mulch is helpful to conserve soil moisture and keep down weeds. It will also insulate the soil however, so don’t apply it until the soil has warmed up. If you have slugs and snails you probably won't want to mulch, since it will provide the pests with habitat as they feast on your onions.
Watering, after planting: Water, 0.5 inch after planting, 2 times a week Onions should receive frequent shallow watering (there’s no point watering these shallow rooted plants very deeply). It is best to water in the morning so the tops can dry out quickly, as this reduces the potential for downy mildew. Stop watering the bulbs when they stop enlarging, they need to be dry for curing.
Pruning, before flowering: before flowering, 1 time. Remove any flower stalks that appear so all of the plants energy can go into nourishing bulb growth.
Support: No
Harvesting
Ripening: Wait until the tops fall over and start to change color, this is a sign they are mature. In cool, humid areas when all tops have fallen; in cool, dry areas when half the tops have fallen; and in warm areas when a third of the tops have fallen. Loosen the soil around the onion with a fork and gently pull it from the soil.
Storage
Before storing any bulbs you should examine them carefully. The papery outer skin should be in good condition, there should be no bruising and the neck should be dry and papery. If the neck is still thick it didn’t mature properly and won’t store very well. These bulbs should be used first.
Store the bulbs in mesh bags (old panty hose works well), or make Onion braids. Keep them in a cool, dry place at 32 to 50˚ F and 60% humidity. Excessive moisture can encourage sprouting.
Onion braids look great hanging in the kitchen, but it is too warm and dry to store them there for any length of time (they will dry out). You could make small braids and bring them into the kitchen as you need them.
Storage Req: Cool
Storage Temp: 32-50°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Store the bulbs in mesh bags (old panty hose works well), or make Onion braids. Keep them in a cool, dry place at 32 to 50˚ F and 60% humidity. Excessive moisture can encourage sprouting.
Onion braids look great hanging in the kitchen, but it is too warm and dry to store them there for any length of time (they will dry out). You could make small braids and bring them into the kitchen as you need them.
Storage Req: Cool
Storage Temp: 32-50°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Onions are cross-pollinated by insects but this isn't usually a problem as there are no close wild relatives and most people don't let their onions flower.
Onions are biennial and will flower in the spring of their second year. In mild climates you can leave the bulbs in the ground over the winter, but in cold climates you will have to store them inside and re-plant them in spring.
Use the best onions you have for seed. Larger bulbs produce larger flowers (they sometimes get to 4 feet in height) and more seed.
Make sure the flower heads are thoroughly dry before collecting seed, then remove the seed from the head and dry it thoroughly before storing. Onion seed doesn't remain viable for very long; 2 or 3 years at the most.
Seed Viability in Years: 1 - 4 Years
Germination Percentage: 70%
Onions are biennial and will flower in the spring of their second year. In mild climates you can leave the bulbs in the ground over the winter, but in cold climates you will have to store them inside and re-plant them in spring.
Use the best onions you have for seed. Larger bulbs produce larger flowers (they sometimes get to 4 feet in height) and more seed.
Make sure the flower heads are thoroughly dry before collecting seed, then remove the seed from the head and dry it thoroughly before storing. Onion seed doesn't remain viable for very long; 2 or 3 years at the most.
Seed Viability in Years: 1 - 4 Years
Germination Percentage: 70%
Companion Planting
Taste: Flavorful.
Culinary Use: Cut off the root and top along with removing the outermost skin to prepare for cooking. Yellow onions are best used for soup stock, stews, braising, sauteing, and onion rings. No kitchen is complete without yellow onions.
Bulb: raw or cooked. A very versatile food, the bulb can be 10 cm or more in diameter and is widely used in most countries of the world. Eaten raw, it can be sliced up and used in salads, sandwich fillings etc, it can be baked or boiled as a vegetable in its own right and is also commonly used as a flavoring in soups, stews and many other cooked dishes. Some cultivars have been selected for their smaller and often hotter bulbs and these are used for making pickles.
Leaves: raw or cooked. There are some cultivars, the spring onions, that have been selected for their leaves and are used in salads whilst still young and actively growing - the bulb is much smaller than in other cultivars and is usually eaten with the leaves. By successional sowing, they can be available at any time of the year.
Flowers: raw. Used as a garnish on salads. The flowers are somewhat dry and are less pleasant than many other species. The seeds are sprouted and eaten. They have a delicious onion flavor.
Known Hazards: There have been cases of poisoning caused by the consumption, in large quantities and by some mammals, of this plant. Dogs seem to be particularly susceptible.
Culinary Use: Cut off the root and top along with removing the outermost skin to prepare for cooking. Yellow onions are best used for soup stock, stews, braising, sauteing, and onion rings. No kitchen is complete without yellow onions.
Bulb: raw or cooked. A very versatile food, the bulb can be 10 cm or more in diameter and is widely used in most countries of the world. Eaten raw, it can be sliced up and used in salads, sandwich fillings etc, it can be baked or boiled as a vegetable in its own right and is also commonly used as a flavoring in soups, stews and many other cooked dishes. Some cultivars have been selected for their smaller and often hotter bulbs and these are used for making pickles.
Leaves: raw or cooked. There are some cultivars, the spring onions, that have been selected for their leaves and are used in salads whilst still young and actively growing - the bulb is much smaller than in other cultivars and is usually eaten with the leaves. By successional sowing, they can be available at any time of the year.
Flowers: raw. Used as a garnish on salads. The flowers are somewhat dry and are less pleasant than many other species. The seeds are sprouted and eaten. They have a delicious onion flavor.
Known Hazards: There have been cases of poisoning caused by the consumption, in large quantities and by some mammals, of this plant. Dogs seem to be particularly susceptible.
Medicinal
Although rarely used specifically as a medicinal herb, the onion has a wide range of beneficial actions on the body and when eaten (especially raw) on a regular basis will promote the general health of the body. The bulb is anthelmintic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antispasmodic, carminative, diuretic, expectorant, febrifuge, hypoglycemic, hypotensive, lithontripic, stomachic and tonic. When used regularly in the diet it offsets tendencies towards angina, arteriosclerosis and heart attack. It is also useful in preventing oral infection and tooth decay. Baked onions can be used as a
poultice to remove pus from sores. Fresh onion juice is a very useful first aid treatment for bee and wasp stings, bites, grazes or fungal skin complaints. When warmed the juice can be dropped into the ear to treat earache. It also aids the formation of scar tissue on wounds, thus speeding up the healing process, and has been used as a cosmetic to remove freckles. Bulbs of red cultivars are harvested when mature in the summer and used to make a homeopathic remedy. This is used particularly in the treatment of people whose symptoms include running eyes and nose.
poultice to remove pus from sores. Fresh onion juice is a very useful first aid treatment for bee and wasp stings, bites, grazes or fungal skin complaints. When warmed the juice can be dropped into the ear to treat earache. It also aids the formation of scar tissue on wounds, thus speeding up the healing process, and has been used as a cosmetic to remove freckles. Bulbs of red cultivars are harvested when mature in the summer and used to make a homeopathic remedy. This is used particularly in the treatment of people whose symptoms include running eyes and nose.
Project Purity Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting
Companions: Planting chamomile and summer savory with onions improves their flavor. Other companions are carrot, leek, beets, kohlrabi, strawberries, brassicas, dill, lettuce and tomatoes. Intercropping onions and leeks with your carrots confuses the carrot and onion flies! Onions planted with strawberries help the berries fight disease.
Enemies: Keep onions away from peas and asparagus.
Enemies: Keep onions away from peas and asparagus.
Problems
No serious insect or disease problems. Bulb rot may occur in overly moist soils. Slugs attack young plants. Mildew, rust and leaf spots may appear. Watch for onion maggots and thrips.
Slugs
Beneficial insects such as earwigs and ground beetles prey on Slugs.
Earwig: prey on Slugs and Snails.
To attract Earwigs to your garden you will need to grow: Celery (Apium graveolens), Beets (Beta vulgaris, Cabbages, Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea/Brassica rapa), Cucumber (Cucumis sativus), Dahlia, Carrot (Daucus carota), Carnation (Dianthus), Carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus), Strawberry (Fragaria ananassa), Hop (Humulus lupulus), Lettuce (Lactuca sativa), Lupin (Lupinus angustifolius), Apple (Malus domestica), Apricot (Prunus armeniaca), Sweet Cherry (Prunus avium), Plum (Prunus domestica), Peach (Prunus persica), European Pear (Pyrus communis), Rhubarb (Rheum hybridum), Roses (Rosa), Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum), Potato (Solanum tuberosum), Grapevine (Vitis vinifera), Corn (Zea mays), Zinnia.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado Potato Beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: Evening Primrose, Amaranthus, and Clover.
To attract Earwigs to your garden you will need to grow: Celery (Apium graveolens), Beets (Beta vulgaris, Cabbages, Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea/Brassica rapa), Cucumber (Cucumis sativus), Dahlia, Carrot (Daucus carota), Carnation (Dianthus), Carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus), Strawberry (Fragaria ananassa), Hop (Humulus lupulus), Lettuce (Lactuca sativa), Lupin (Lupinus angustifolius), Apple (Malus domestica), Apricot (Prunus armeniaca), Sweet Cherry (Prunus avium), Plum (Prunus domestica), Peach (Prunus persica), European Pear (Pyrus communis), Rhubarb (Rheum hybridum), Roses (Rosa), Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum), Potato (Solanum tuberosum), Grapevine (Vitis vinifera), Corn (Zea mays), Zinnia.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado Potato Beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: Evening Primrose, Amaranthus, and Clover.
Onion Maggots
Beneficial insects such as ground beetles, birds, and parasitic wasps all prey on onion maggots.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rear end of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rear end of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Thrips
Beneficial insects such as Big-eyed Bugs, Hoverflies, and Minute Pirate Bugs all prey on Thrips.
Big-eyed Bugs: Prey on Aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies.
To attract Big-eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Hoverflies: Preys on Aphids, Scale insects, Caterpillars, and Thrips.
To attract Hoverflies to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Prey on Spider Mites, Cabbage Looper, Insect Eggs, Caterpillars, Aphids, and Thrips.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
To attract Big-eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Hoverflies: Preys on Aphids, Scale insects, Caterpillars, and Thrips.
To attract Hoverflies to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Prey on Spider Mites, Cabbage Looper, Insect Eggs, Caterpillars, Aphids, and Thrips.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Nutrition
Onions have so many valuable medicinal applications because of the nutrients, vitamins, minerals, and organic compounds contained in them, including the presence of sulfuric compounds and quercetin in traces of the essential oils. Onions also contain mineral components such as calcium, magnesium, sodium, potassium, selenium and phosphorus, and they are a good source of vitamin C, vitamin B6, and dietary fiber!
The Health Benefits of Onions
Onion, being such an adaptive plant, is a great source of essential nutrients our body needs. Let’s explore the most valuable and well-known health benefits of onions.
Oral Care: Onions are often used to prevent tooth decay and oral infections. Chewing raw onions for 2 to 3 minutes can potentially kill all the germs present in the oral area and surrounding areas like the throat and lips.
Boost Immunity: The phytochemicals present in significant amounts in onions act as stimulants for vitamin C within the body. Vitamin C boosts your immune system by fighting against toxins and various foreign bodies that can lead to diseases and illness.
Treat Heart Ailments: Onions act as anticoagulants, also known as blood thinners, which prevent the red blood cells from forming clumps. These blocks and clots can lead to heart disorders or cardiovascular diseases.
Manage Diabetes: Onions contain chromium, which is a relatively unusual mineral to be found naturally in food. Chromium helps the body manage blood sugar levels and ensures a slow, gradual release of glucose to the muscles and body cells. Therefore, eating them can help modulate the blood sugar levels, which is vital for diabetic patients.
Used as Insect Repellent: You can apply onion juice to reduce the pain caused by honeybee stings. Fresh onion juice or paste can be used for external applications on insect bites and scorpion stings. The smell of onions also causes insects to flee, which is why they can be used as insect repellents as well as a form of sting treatment.
Prevent Cancer: Onions are rich in active compounds that successfully inhibit the development and spread of cancerous cells. They have a significant amount of quercetin, which is a very powerful antioxidant, consistently linked to the prevention or reduction of the spread of cancer.
Vitamin C, present in onions, is also a strong antioxidant that can reduce the presence and impact of free radicals in the body. Free radicals are the chemical by-products of cellular metabolism, and they can cause healthy cells to mutate into cancerous cells. Therefore, any food rich in antioxidants, which neutralize these free radicals, is beneficial for everyone.
Relieve Earaches: A few drops of onion juice may prove immensely beneficial to individuals suffering from an acute earache. The ringing sound in the ear may be cured by applying onion juice through a piece of cotton wool.
Skin Care: Onion juice mixed with honey or olive oil is said to be the best treatment for treating symptoms or signs of acne. It is also anti-inflammatory in nature, so the active compounds can reduce the redness and swelling that is commonly associated with skin conditions like acne. Onions also help reduce the associated pain and inflammation of conditions like gout and arthritis.
Treat Cough: Consuming an equal mixture of onion juice and honey can relieve sore throats and coughing symptoms.
Boost Sexual Drive: Onions are said to increase the urge for a healthy sex life. One tablespoon of onion juice along with one spoonful of ginger juice, taken three times a day, can boost libido and sex drive.
Treat Anemia: Even anemic conditions can be improved by eating onions along with jaggery and water because this adds to the mineral content of the body, especially iron, which is an essential part of producing new red blood cells. Therefore, anemia, also known as iron deficiency, can be prevented by including onion in your diet.onioninfographic
Relieve Stomach Aches: Onions have anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties that can relieve an upset stomach and related gastric syndromes. This is due to the saponins that are found in them. These saponins have anti-spasmodic capabilities, which ensure that stomach disturbances do not continue and that your bowels are clear and smoothly functioning.
Treat Urinary Disorders: For those suffering from a burning sensation during urination, onions can provide considerable relief. People suffering from this condition should drink boiled water with 6 to 7 grams of onions.
According to Peace Health, onions have long been used for treating various diseases such as tumors, persistent cough, and cold. Medical practitioners consider this plant form as a perfect home remedy for relieving various metabolic disorders and diseases. Peace Health further states that onion consumption can even help in the prevention of stomach and breast cancer.
Relieve Asthma: Medical studies have revealed that these sulfuric compounds stop biochemical chain formations that possibly lead to asthmatic conditions. The sulfuric content of onions facilitates the melting of phlegm in a patient suffering from severe coughing. Fresh onion juice is recommended for patients, who have lost consciousness, because of its aroma and inhalant qualities, which can induce immediate vigor and energy.
Oral Care: Onions are often used to prevent tooth decay and oral infections. Chewing raw onions for 2 to 3 minutes can potentially kill all the germs present in the oral area and surrounding areas like the throat and lips.
Boost Immunity: The phytochemicals present in significant amounts in onions act as stimulants for vitamin C within the body. Vitamin C boosts your immune system by fighting against toxins and various foreign bodies that can lead to diseases and illness.
Treat Heart Ailments: Onions act as anticoagulants, also known as blood thinners, which prevent the red blood cells from forming clumps. These blocks and clots can lead to heart disorders or cardiovascular diseases.
Manage Diabetes: Onions contain chromium, which is a relatively unusual mineral to be found naturally in food. Chromium helps the body manage blood sugar levels and ensures a slow, gradual release of glucose to the muscles and body cells. Therefore, eating them can help modulate the blood sugar levels, which is vital for diabetic patients.
Used as Insect Repellent: You can apply onion juice to reduce the pain caused by honeybee stings. Fresh onion juice or paste can be used for external applications on insect bites and scorpion stings. The smell of onions also causes insects to flee, which is why they can be used as insect repellents as well as a form of sting treatment.
Prevent Cancer: Onions are rich in active compounds that successfully inhibit the development and spread of cancerous cells. They have a significant amount of quercetin, which is a very powerful antioxidant, consistently linked to the prevention or reduction of the spread of cancer.
Vitamin C, present in onions, is also a strong antioxidant that can reduce the presence and impact of free radicals in the body. Free radicals are the chemical by-products of cellular metabolism, and they can cause healthy cells to mutate into cancerous cells. Therefore, any food rich in antioxidants, which neutralize these free radicals, is beneficial for everyone.
Relieve Earaches: A few drops of onion juice may prove immensely beneficial to individuals suffering from an acute earache. The ringing sound in the ear may be cured by applying onion juice through a piece of cotton wool.
Skin Care: Onion juice mixed with honey or olive oil is said to be the best treatment for treating symptoms or signs of acne. It is also anti-inflammatory in nature, so the active compounds can reduce the redness and swelling that is commonly associated with skin conditions like acne. Onions also help reduce the associated pain and inflammation of conditions like gout and arthritis.
Treat Cough: Consuming an equal mixture of onion juice and honey can relieve sore throats and coughing symptoms.
Boost Sexual Drive: Onions are said to increase the urge for a healthy sex life. One tablespoon of onion juice along with one spoonful of ginger juice, taken three times a day, can boost libido and sex drive.
Treat Anemia: Even anemic conditions can be improved by eating onions along with jaggery and water because this adds to the mineral content of the body, especially iron, which is an essential part of producing new red blood cells. Therefore, anemia, also known as iron deficiency, can be prevented by including onion in your diet.onioninfographic
Relieve Stomach Aches: Onions have anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties that can relieve an upset stomach and related gastric syndromes. This is due to the saponins that are found in them. These saponins have anti-spasmodic capabilities, which ensure that stomach disturbances do not continue and that your bowels are clear and smoothly functioning.
Treat Urinary Disorders: For those suffering from a burning sensation during urination, onions can provide considerable relief. People suffering from this condition should drink boiled water with 6 to 7 grams of onions.
According to Peace Health, onions have long been used for treating various diseases such as tumors, persistent cough, and cold. Medical practitioners consider this plant form as a perfect home remedy for relieving various metabolic disorders and diseases. Peace Health further states that onion consumption can even help in the prevention of stomach and breast cancer.
Relieve Asthma: Medical studies have revealed that these sulfuric compounds stop biochemical chain formations that possibly lead to asthmatic conditions. The sulfuric content of onions facilitates the melting of phlegm in a patient suffering from severe coughing. Fresh onion juice is recommended for patients, who have lost consciousness, because of its aroma and inhalant qualities, which can induce immediate vigor and energy.
The juice of the plant is used as a moth repellent and can also be rubbed onto the skin to repel insects. The plant juice can be used as a rust preventative on metals and as a polish for copper and glass. A yellow-brown dye is obtained from the skins of the bulbs. Onion juice rubbed into the skin is said to promote the growth of hair and to be a remedy for baldness. It is also used as a cosmetic to get rid of freckles. The growing plant is said to repel insects and moles. A spray made by pouring enough boiling water to cover 1 kg of chopped unpeeled onions is said to increase the resistance of other plants to diseases and parasites.
Suggested Varieties
Amaranth: Love Lies Bleeding (Heirloom) (Amaranthus caudatus)
$1.00 - $5.60
As a decorative flower, Love-Lies-Bleeding grew in many Victorian English gardens; in the language of flowers, it represents hopeless love. In addition to producing lovely flowers, Love-Lies-Bleeding is a form of the grain-producing plant known as amaranth. A staple grain for the Aztecs and Incas, amaranth was referred to as the "golden grain of the gods" and used in religious rituals. The plant nearly died out when the Spanish Conquistadors declared their religious practices barbaric, and made growing amaranth a capital offense. Today, both the leaves and the seeds of amaranth are an important food source in many parts of the world. This unique grain provides an impressive amount of vitamins and minerals, as well as being very rich in protein.
Amaranth: Perfecta (Heirloom) (Amaranthus Tricolor 'Perfecta')
$1.00 - $5.60
This fast-growing, heat-loving plant originated in tropical Asia, where it is widely cultivated as a leaf vegetable. It bears large, elliptic or oval leaves on erect stems. The brightly hued new leaves fade gradually to medium green with deep maroon markings. This cultivar is spectacular from summer to frost. Insignificant clusters of green or reddish flowers appear at the stem tips and in the leaf axils in summer. Small capsules containing a single brown or black seed follow the flowers.
Amaranth: Red Garnet (Heirloom) (Amaranthus tricolor)
$1.00 - $5.60
Amaranth had a sacred status in the ancient civilizations of the Aztecs and Incas, since the grain was used in various religious rituals. It remains a staple food in modern Mexico and some parts of Asia, being prepared in numerous dishes from sweet to savory. One traditional Mexican treat known as "alegria" is made with amaranth grain and honey or molasses. A super grain, amaranth can be used for gluten free flour; it also makes a complete protein when mixed with another grain. In addition, amaranth greens have a higher iron content than any other green vegetable except parsley, as well as containing many valuable vitamins and minerals.
Balm: Lemon (Melissa officinalis)
$1.00 - $5.60
Lemon balm was most likely introduced to Spain by the Moors in the 7th century; by the Middle Ages, it was common throughout Europe. Its Latin name, Melissa, means “bee” in Greek and refers to the plant's tendency to attract bees; first century Roman naturalist Pliny the Elder recommended that lemon balm be cultivated near bee hives to prevent the bees from straying. A member of the mint family, lemon balm dates back over 2,000 years for use as a medicinal herb primarily to treat stress and anxiety, insomnia, and indigestion. Eleventh century Persian physician and philosopher Avicenna wrote of the benefits of lemon balm in treating low spirits or melancholy. According to an old Arabian proverb, “Balm makes the heart merry and joyful.” According to historical record, both King Charles V of France and Emperor Charles V drank lemon balm beverages to improve their health; lemon balm was also one of the plants grown in Thomas Jefferson’s famous experimental garden. Today, herbal treatments containing lemon balm often include other calming herbs such as valerian, chamomile, and hops to encourage relaxation.
Beets: Cylindra (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
Though Cylindra heirloom beets hail from Denmark, beets seem to have originated in the Mediterranean region, where people grew them for thousands of years. Later, beets grew in Germany and Holland and were used as cattle fodder; they were later imported to England for this purpose, but the poor began to raise them for an affordable food source. American colonists later brought them to the New World, where they became a commonly enjoyed food both for their roots and their greens. According to historians, George Washington experimented with beets, cross-pollinating them to create new varieties.
Beets: Detroit Dark Red (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
Detroit Dark Red heirloom beets hail from Ontario, Canada, where a Mr. Reeves developed them from blood turnips. This globular beet first made its appearance in 1892. However, beets seem to have originated in the Mediterranean region, where people grew them for thousands of years. Later, beets grew in Germany and Holland and were used as cattle fodder; they were later imported to England for this purpose, but the poor began to raise them for an affordable food source. American colonists later brought them to the New World, where they became a commonly enjoyed food both for their roots and their greens.
Beets: Golden Detroit (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
Beets seem to have originated in the Mediterranean region, where people grew them for thousands of years. Later, beets grew in Germany and Holland and were used as cattle fodder; they were later imported to England for this purpose, but the poor began to raise them for an affordable food source. American colonists later brought them to the New World, where they became a commonly enjoyed food both for their roots and their greens. According to historians, George Washington experimented with beets, cross-pollinating them to create new varieties.
Bergamot: Wild (Monarda fistulosa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Butterfly attracting premier! Bursting with lavender heads of flowers, this popular perennial wildflower puts on a beautiful show! Medium to tall in height, this plant looks great planted en masse, or with other meadow dwellers. Its sweetly aromatic foliage makes it even more desirable. A classic!
Broccoli: Green Sprouting Calabrese (Organic) (Brassica oleracea var. italica)
$1.00 - $5.60
Calabrese Green Sprouting Broccoli is an Italian Heirloom that was named after Calabria (a region in southern Italy). It is known as the most favorable broccoli due to its ability to produce a larger number of heads on lots of thin stalks.
Broccoli: Purple Sprouting (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. italica)
$1.00 - $5.60
Though this extremely cold hardy Purple Sprouting broccoli was bred in England, the plant from which modern broccoli is derived first grew in the wild in the Mediterranean region and in Asia Minor. The Italians appreciated it so much that it got the name "Italian asparagus." Broccoli gradually spread to the rest of Europe and to the New World, where Thomas Jefferson included this strange new vegetable in his experimental garden.
Broccoli: Waltham 29 (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. italica)
$1.00 - $5.60
The heirloom broccoli variety Waltham 29 is named for Waltham, MA, where researchers at the University of Massachusetts developed it in 1950. However, the plant from which modern broccoli is derived first grew in the wild in the Mediterranean region and in Asia Minor. Broccoli gradually spread to the rest of Europe and to the New World, where Thomas Jefferson included this strange new vegetable in his experimental garden. The Italians appreciated it so much that it got the name "Italian asparagus." After World War I, Italian brothers Stefano and Andrea D'Arrigo brought their Sicilian variety of broccoli and began growing it in San Jose, Calfornia; they later shipped it to Boston's North End, where it established a quickly expanding market.
Brussels Sprout: Long Island Improved (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. gemmifera)
$1.00 - $5.60
Historians believe that the ancient Romans first cultivated Brussels sprouts, but Belgium has the greatest claim on this tiny vegetable. As the name indicates, Brussels sprouts grew in great abundance around the city of Brussels. Since the 1900's, growers in California has produced most of the United States' supply of this vegetable; Long Island Improved in particular is a favorite variety of commercial growers.
Cabbage: Early Jersey Wakefield (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
$1.00 - $5.60
Only a few left!
The first Early Jersey Wakefield cabbages were raised in 1840 by a man named Francis Brill of Jersey City, New Jersey. Thirty years later, seed companies all over the region offered this seed for sale; growers appreciated its early harvest and small, tender heads.
Cabbage: Late Flat Dutch (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
$1.00 - $5.60
Late Flat Dutch cabbage can be traced back to 1840, when the earliest mention of this variety is found in the seed records of the Netherlands. German immigrants carried the seed with them to America, where it spread; by 1924, it could be found in local seed catalogs such as D. M. Ferry & Company.
Cabbage: Red Acre (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
$1.00 - $5.60
Cabbage is considered one of the oldest cultivated vegetables, since historians trace it back to 4,000 BC in China. The Romans also cultivated it and praised it for its healing qualities; philosophers Pythagoras and Cato both made the lowly cabbage the subject of a book. Jacques Cartier brought the first cabbage to America in 1536. Cabbages were quite popular in colonial America, being pickled and preserved in every possible way to provide food for the winter.
Cabbage, Chinese: Pak Choi (Heirloom) (Brassica rapa var. chinensis)
$1.00 - $5.60
Chinese cabbage dates back to the 15th century in China, when a pharmacologist of the Ming Dynasty considered it nutritionally beneficial. Later it became the main ingredient in kim chi, the national dish of Korea; Japanese soldiers also discovered Chinese cabbage and took it home with them after the war. Americans became familiar with this vegetable in the late 19th century.
Caraway (Carum carvi)
$1.00 - $5.60
Possibly one of the oldest herbs, evidence of caraway has been found in the Neolithic ruins of Europe as well as in ancient Egypt. Medieval medicine recommended the use of caraway for the improvement of digestion as well as for infant colic; William Shakespeare himself made reference to the culinary use of this herb in his play Henry IV, when Falstaff is invited to "take a pippin and a dish of caraways." The flavor of caraway became extremely popular in Tudor England, especially cooked with fruit or for cakes and bread. Caraway has a well known role in the cuisine of Germany, Scandanavia, northern Africa, and various eastern European countries.
Carrots: Chantenay Red Cored (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
Introduced from France in the late 1800s. Blocky, broad-shouldered variety with blunt tip, about 5-1/2" long and 2-1/2" at the shoulder. Deep orange interior. Adaptable to clay and a wide range of soils. A versatile, good winter keeper that is quite tasty, raw or cooked. Stores well in the ground. Becomes sweeter in storage.
Carrots: Cosmic Purple (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The first mention of red, white, and purple carrots can be found in the records of both Afghanistan and Egypt. Yellow carrots, on the other hand, date back to Turkish records from the 900's. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California.
Carrots: Danvers (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The origin of carrots is somewhat obscure, but early records from many civilizations refer to this colorful root. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California. Danvers carrots in particular come from Danvers, Massachusetts, where the Eastern States Farmers Exchange introduced them in 1947.
Carrots: Rainbow Blend (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
Festive Color and Flavor Mix of Purple, Yellow, Red and White Carrots is sure to delight—each with their own unique qualities. Purple has smooth skin, coreless orange flesh and is sweet and tasty. Solar Yellow holds its sunny hue inside and out, is crunchy, sweet and juicy. Lunar White is mild and delicious, and Atomic Red has high lycopene levels as well as a crispy texture that is great cooked.
Carrots: Scarlet Nantes (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The origin of carrots is somewhat obscure, but early records from many civilizations refer to this colorful root. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. The 19th century seed specialist Louis de Vilmorin introduced the French varieties of carrot such as Nantes and Chantenay, which both derive their names from their places of origin. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California.
Carrots: Tendersweet (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The origin of carrots is somewhat obscure, but early records from many civilizations refer to this colorful root. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. The Dutch were the among the first to cultivate the orange carrot; legend has it that their intent was to honor William of Orange. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California.
Cauliflower: Snowball Y Improved (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. botrytis)
$1.00 - $5.60
In spite of Mark Twain's opinion that cauliflower is nothing but cabbage with a college education, this vegetable enjoyed extreme popularity in the palaces of French royalty such as Louis XIV. Its origin is thought to be Cyprus, though records also show its presence in Arab, Mediterranean, and African countries and the Roman Empire. By the 17th century, cauliflower had reached England; Italian immigrants were the first to appreciate its culinary qualities and bring it to America, where it soon grew in nearly every family and commercial garden.
Celery: Tendercrisp (Heirloom) (Apium graveolens var. dulce)
$1.00 - $5.60
No one really knows where celery originated, though claims come from such diverse locations as Sweden, New Zealand, and Algeria. Experts believe it probably was first cultivated in the Mediterranean basin. In ancient times, celery was valued primarily for its medicinal benefits; French and Italian cooks first started making use of it for an herb or flavoring in the seventeenth century. A Scotsman named George Taylor is credited with bringing celery to United States, when he grew it in his garden and offered it to the guests at a local ball.
Celery: Utah Tall 52/70 (Heirloom) (Apium graveolens var. dulce)
$1.00 - $5.60
No one really knows where celery originated, though claims come from such diverse locations as Sweden, New Zealand, and Algeria. Experts believe it probably was first cultivated in the Mediterranean basin. In ancient times, celery was valued primarily for its medicinal benefits; French and Italian cooks first started making use of it for an herb or flavoring in the seventeenth century. A Scotsman named George Taylor is credited with bringing celery to United States, when he grew it in his garden and offered it to the guests at a local ball.
Chamomile: Common German (Matricaria recutita)
$1.00 - $5.60
German chamomile, the variety preferred for making tea, originates in southern and eastern Europe; it has a distinctive apple/pineapple like scent. Ancient authorities such as Hippocrates and Galen wrote of the medical benefits of chamomile, and it remains a popular and effective herbal remedy in modern times. As a tea or infusion, chamomile gives a feeling of relaxation and drowsiness, making it an excellent treatment for insomnia or anxiety. Because of the herb's antiseptic, anti-inflammatory properties, skin preparations including chamomile benefit conditions such as eczema, rashes, or insect bites. The dried flowers and leaves also make a sweet scented addition to sachets or potpourri.
Chamomile: Roman (Anthemis nobilis)
$1.00 - $5.60
The word “chamomile” comes from the Greek words for “earth apple,” referring to its pleasant scent reminiscent of apples. Though an ancient plant, Roman Chamomile received its name from a 19th century English botanist who discovered it growing wild in the Colosseum. Of the two most common types of chamomile, the Roman variety has a stronger and slightly more bitter flavor; most chamomile tea and herbal medicine contain the German type, while chamomile essential oil usually contains the Roman type. When distilled, the oil of Roman chamomile can be used topically to reduce swelling, infection, or inflammation. Because of its apple-like scent when trodden underfoot, this plant often acts as a ground cover or lawn substitute; traditional chamomile lawns can still be found in England, most notably at Buckingham Palace.
Clover: Crimson (Trifolium incarnatum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Most commonly known as crimson clover, this wildflower is also called Italian or French clover in reference to it's nativity to Europe. This annual species blooms in a strawberry red, and it's delightful fragrance attracts bees by the score! A non-invasive, annual species of clover, it is often used as a cover-crop. In southern climates, plant it during your off-season, and watch the amazing results of this rich, nitrogen producing plant! The earthworms love it! Also a protein-rich forage crop for cattle and livestock, this gem of a wildflower is indispensable!
Clover: Purple Prairie (Dalea purpurea)
$1.00 - $5.60
Meriwether Lewis described this prairie plant in his diary entry of September 2nd 1804, saying that “the Indians use it as an application to fresh wounds.” He went on to collect several more specimens and described them fully in his notes, since he had no previous knowledge of the plant. Purple Prairie Clover produces protein-rich seed that is a source of food for many birds as well as deer, antelope, livestock, and small animals of all kinds. Native Americans also valued this versatile plant, often brewing the leaves for tea or eating the roots as a delicacy. The Pawnees dried the stems and tied them together for brooms, leading to the nickname “broom weed.” The genus name Dalea honors Samuel Dale (1659-1739), an English botanist, physician, and historian.
Collards: Vates (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. acephala)
$1.00 - $5.60
Collard, sometimes known as wild or non-heading cabbage, probably originated in Asia Minor and the Mediterranean region. Europe eventually became familiar with this vegetable, though historians disagree as to whether it was introduced there by the Romans or the Celts. Collard became a valuable part of the traditional cuisine of the American South through the slave trade, when the slaves began preparing this inexpensive vegetable with scraps of meat for flavoring. This unique vegetable has become a unique symbol of Southern culture and tradition. The Vates type of collard derives its name from an acronym for Virginia Truck Experiment Station, a research effort that was conducted from 1909-1960.
Coriander: Leisure (Coriandrum sativum)
$1.00 - $5.60
The coriander plant, whose leaves are known as cilantro, is native to the Mediterranean and Middle Easter countries; it is believed to be one of the earliest spices used by man. Early physicians such as Hippocrates used coriander primarily as an aromatic stimulant or to disguise the taste of unsavory medicines. Nearly every part of this herb has a culinary use; in Thai cuisine, the roots flavor spicy sauces, while the cilantro leaves season and garnish Chinese, Vietnamese, and Mexican dishes. The coriander seed is used in candy, specialty breads, sauces, desserts, and even perfumes. In Tudor England, coriander seeds coated with sugar were known as "comfits" and became a popular treat.
Corn: Country Gentleman-Open Pollinated (Heirloom) (Zea mays)
$1.00 - $5.60
Country Gentleman corn, a heirloom variety, is the most well known variety of shoepeg corn. Named for the similarity of its kernels to wooden pegs used in shoe making, shoepeg corn is characterized by small, irregular white kernels of unsurpassed tenderness and sweetness. The American South has made this type of corn its own, and it is virtually unrecognized in other areas of the United States. Country Gentleman was first offered for sale in 1890 by S. D. Woodruff & Sons.
Corn: Golden Bantam-Open Pollinated (Heirloom) (Zea mays)
$1.00 - $5.60
A Greenfield, Massachusetts native named J. G. Pickett is credited with developing this marvelous variety of corn. Later, seed expert E. L. Coy sent it to Burpee with the note, "you now own the very richest and sweetest corn ever known."
Corn, Popcorn: Shaman's Blue (Hybrid) Open Pollinated (Zea mays)
$1.00 - $5.60
Blue corn originated in the Andes Mountains of Peru, where the native peoples usually ground it into flour for cooking. Indians of Mexico and the southwestern United States also widely used this corn, since its dryness made it an excellent flour corn and gave it good resistance to disease. This exciting blue popcorn receives high marks for both visual and taste appeal. The unique blue/purple kernel pops into mounds of snow white popcorn that will satisfy any popcorn lover with its slightly sweet flavor.
Corn, Popcorn: South American Yellow (Zea mays)
$1.00 - $5.60
According to evidence found by archaeologists on the northern coast of Peru, popcorn was a staple in the ancient civilizations of South America. Popcorn also grew above the border, and it once occupied a space in nearly every American garden. At the beginning of the twentieth century, 52 varieties of popcorn were offered by the seed catalogs of the time. A wise choice for popcorn lovers! This prolific variety bears 2-3, 6-9 inch ears per plant. When popped, the large yellow kernels produce a buttery tasting popcorn.
Corn, Popcorn: Strawberry Red (Zea Mays)
$1.00 - $5.60
Although it's exact origin is unknown, it is believed that Strawberry Red Popcorn was domesticated by the Olmec and the Mayans. Not only is this amazing variety edible, but it is just as decorative. Each plant grows to 5-6' and bares two or so 2-3" strawberry shaped ears that are covered with brilliant burgundy kernels! Your mind will be blown as you watch the red kernels pop into white popcorn with in the blink of eye!
Cucumber: Lemon (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Historians generally agree that the first cucumbers grew in India's Himalayan Mountains over 3,000 years ago. From this region they expanded into Greece and Rome; the Romans most likely spread this vegetable to the rest of Europe. The cucumber was widely grown by native Americans through the influence of the Spanish and other explorers. Cucumbers continue to be a vital part of traditional cuisine in Russia and many parts of Asia; the greatest variety of colors and shapes of this vegetable can still be found in its Asian birthplace. Lemon cucumbers in particular can be traced back to the gardens of the 1890s.
Cucumber: Marketmore 76' (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Historians generally agree that the first cucumbers grew in India's Himalayan Mountains over 3,000 years ago. From this region they expanded into Greece and Rome; the Romans most likely spread this vegetable to the rest of Europe. The cucumber was widely grown by native Americans through the influence of the Spanish and other explorers. Cucumbers continue to be a vital part of traditional cuisine in Russia and many parts of Asia; the greatest variety of colors and shapes of this vegetable can still be found in its Asian birthplace. Marketmore cucumbers in particular were developed at Cornell University of New York, but Dr. Henry Munger.
Cucumber: Mexican Sour Gherkin (Heirloom) (Melothria scabra)
$1.00 - $5.60
Sold out
Melothria scabra is a vine grown for its edible fruit. Fruit are about the size of grapes and taste like cucumbers with a tinge of sourness. Vernacular names include mouse melon, Mexican sour gherkin, cucamelon, Mexican miniature watermelon, Mexican sour cucumber and pepquinos. This plant is native to Mexico and Central America, where it is called sandiita (little watermelon). It is believed to have been a domesticated crop before western contact began.
Cucumber: National Pickling (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
National Pickling cucumbers in particular come from the research of George Starr of Michigan State University, who was commissioned by the National Pickle Packers Association to produce a pickle that would perform equally well for small and large pickles. The resulting cucumber excelled all expectations when it was offered to the public in 1924.
Cucumber: Straight Eight (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Historians generally agree that the first cucumbers grew in India's Himalyan Mountains over 3,000 years ago. From this region they expanded into Greece and Rome; the Romans most likely spread this vegetable to the rest of Europe. The cucumber was widely grown by native Americans through the influence of the Spanish and other explorers. Cucumbers continue to be a vital part of traditional cuisine in Russia and many parts of Asia; the greatest variety of colors and shapes of this vegetable can still be found in its Asian birthplace. Straight Eight cucumbers in particular were developed because of the demand for straight cucumbers; they exceeded all expectations, and won the AAS Gold Medal Award in 1935.
Cucumber: Sumter (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Perfect for pickling, this disease resistant cucumber variety produces blocky, slightly tapered, medium green fruit with white spines. Widely adapted for growing in all regions, for home or market. Tender annual 4' vines, 5" fruit. Disease Resistant to Powdery Mildew, Downy Mildew, Alternaria Leaf Spot and tolerant to Cucumber Mosaic Virus.
Cucumber: White Wonder (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
This high yielding ivory white cucumber variety was introduced into the U.S. and first offered by Burpee Seed Company in 1893. White Wonder Cucumbers are delicious raw, in salads, or pickled.
Cucumber: Wisconsin SMR 58 (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Historians generally agree that the first cucumbers grew in India's Himalayan Mountains over 3,000 years ago. From this region they expanded into Greece and Rome; the Romans most likely spread this vegetable to the rest of Europe. The cucumber was widely grown by native Americans through the influence of the Spanish and other explorers. Cucumbers continue to be a vital part of traditional cuisine in Russia and many parts of Asia; the greatest variety of colors and shapes of this vegetable can still be found in its Asian birthplace. As the name suggests, the Wisconsin SMR 58 cucumber comes from the University of Wisconsin; it soon achieved the title of the best non-hybrid pickling cucumber.
Dill: Dukat (Anethum graveolens)
$1.00 - $5.60
Historical records suggest that dill has been used for medicinal purposes for over 5,000 years; its primary use was to calm the digestion and treat stomach ailments, hence its name from an old Saxon word meaning "to lull." Ancient Greek tradition suggested covering the head with dill leaves to induce sleep, while many herbal remedies from ages past recommend dill to soothe colicky babies. Traditionally, dill was thought to bring good fortune, protection, and wealth. Though the origin of dill's famous association with the pickle is not known, an 1640 recipe from the cook of England's King Charles I requires dill in its pickled cucumbers. Today, German, Greek, and Scandinavian cuisine most often include dill.
Fennel: Florence (Foeniculum vulgare var. azoricum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Fennel has a rich history in ancient Greece, where it was called "marathon." The Battle of Marathon in 490 BC and the Italian town of the same name both received their names from this plant, which the Grecians regarded as a symbol of victory. Its medicinal properties, which are many, include an ability to suppress the appetite. In 13th century England, people ate fennel seeds during fast days or long sermons to partially satisfy their hunger; this led to the nickname "meeting seeds." A tea made of fennel became a well known treatment for infant colic or digestive disturbances. The seed of the fennel plant is most commonly found in Middle Eastern cuisine, while the bulb-like portion of the plant is popular in Italian and German cuisine. While culinary use is perfectly safe, large doses of fennel should be avoided by expectant mothers.
Kale: Lacinato (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea - Acephala Group)
$1.00 - $5.60
Technically a form of leafy non-heading cabbage, kale has been traced to ancient Greek and Roman civilizations. Early forms of this plant probably came from in Asia Minor or the Mediterranean region, though it is such an ancient plant no one can be sure of its origin. The first recorded mention of kale in America comes from a 1669 publication; European influence probably brought kale to America. Though kale is still a relatively minor crop in the States, it thrives in European kitchen gardens. Lacinato in particular is a variety of Tuscan kale, which is an heirloom vegetable from eighteenth century Italy.
Kale: Ornamental (Hybrid) (Brassica oleracea - Acephala Group)
$1.00 - $5.60
Ornamental Kale provides amazing color from early fall well into winter with frilly green outer leaves and pink, white or purple centers. As the rest of the flowers in the garden are dying down, Ornamental Kale is just getting started!
Kale: Red Russian (Heirloom) (Brassica Oleracea - Acephala Group)
$1.00 - $5.60
Technically a form of leafy non-heading cabbage, kale has been traced to ancient Greek and Roman civilizations. Early forms of this plant probably came from in Asia Minor or the Mediterranean region, though it is such an ancient plant no one can be sure of its origin. The first recorded mention of kale in America comes from a 1669 publication; European influence probably brought kale to America. Though kale is still a relatively minor crop in the States, it thrives in European kitchen gardens. Red Russian kale in particular is an heirloom variety that comes from the late nineteenth century, when Russian traders introduced it to Canada.
Kohlrabi: Purple Vienna (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. gongylodes)
$1.00 - $5.60
Named for a German word meaning "cabbage turnip," kohlrabi was developed first around the 16th century in northern Europe. By the end of that century, it had spread throughout the rest of the continent as well as to the Mediterranean region. The first recorded mention of kohlrabi in the States is found in the early 16th century. More recently, the countries of China, Israel, and Africa have discovered this vegetable; it has become quite a staple of northern Indian cuisine. Purple Vienna heirloom kohlrabi in particular dates back to 1863.
Leeks: Giant Musselburg (Heirloom) (Allium porrum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Leeks most likely originated in the Mediterranean region, where they have been cultivated for over 3,000 years. Jewish tradition has included this member of the onion family since their nation's historic sojourn in Egypt. Greek and Roman cultures also record medicinal uses for the leek, and Nero himself ate vast quantities of it with the belief that it would benefit his voice quality. Leeks were later brought to the British Isles by Phonecian traders, where they came to be the national symbol of Wales. This vegetable is not as well known as its close relative, the onion, but chefs and gardeners alike appreciate the leek for its sweeter, more subtle flavor.
Lettuce: Bibb (Heirloom) (Lactuca sativa)
$1.00 - $5.60
This unusual lettuce with a resemblance to both leaf lettuce and iceberg lettuce was first grown by Lt. Jack B. Bibb of Frankfurt, Kentucky in 1935. Lt. Bibb experimented with horticulture in his greenhouse and ended up with this famous variety, which provides the traditional salad lettuce of the Kentucky Derby. Bibb lettuce also has been called "limestone lettuce" because of the high lime content in the Kentucky soil.
Lettuce: Freckles Romaine (Heirloom) (Lactuca sativa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Freckles heirloom lettuce, originally known by the German name of "Forellenschluss," which means "speckled like a trout's back," comes from Austria and Southern Germany in the late 18th century. Wild lettuce, however, from which modern lettuce is derived, originated in Asia Minor. The ancient historian Herodotus records its presence on the tables of 6th century Persian kings, and throughout the following centuries it became a popular crop all over Europe. Columbus brought it with him to the New World, starting its spread over the North American continent. Without a doubt, lettuce now holds a place in nearly every garden on the globe.
Lettuce: Oakleaf (Heirloom) (Lactuca sativa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Oakleaf lettuce dates back to 1771, when it was introduced by the French seed company Vilmorin. Wild lettuce, however, from which modern lettuce is derived, originated in Asia Minor. The ancient historian Herodotus records its presence on the tables of 6th century Persian kings, and throughout the following centuries it became a popular crop all over Europe. Columbus brought it with him to the New World, starting its spread over the North American continent. Without a doubt, lettuce now holds a place in nearly every garden on the globe.
Lettuce: Red Romaine (Heirloom) (Lactuca sativa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Romaine lettuce, though named for its presence in the papal gardens, dates back to the third millennium BC, where ancient Egyptians depicted this type of lettuce in their bas-reliefs. Another name for Romaine, "Cos," shows another part of its history on the Greek island of Kos. Later, Syrian gardeners began selectively breeding this type of lettuce to have a thick rib and spoon-like shape, since they used lettuce as a spoon for their traditional cuisine.
Mint: Pennyroyal (Mentha Pulegium)
$1.00 - $5.60
Pennyroyal, a member of the mint family, is a perennial herb that was once widely used but is not as common today. It has applications as an herbal remedy, culinary uses and as a decorative touch. Growing pennyroyal in the herb or perennial garden will add color with its lavender blooms.
Mint: Spear (Mentha spicata)
$1.00 - $5.60
Mint received its name from the Greek legend of "Minthe," a river nymph who was turned into a lowly plant to be trodden underfoot; the stimulating, sweet smell perpetuated the memory of Minthe. Though "spear" may be derived from the shape of its leaves, a more likely story is that it comes from a form of "St. Pierre," the French monastery where it may have first grown. Though native to Europe, spearmint can now be found throughout North America; in the era of sea exploration, it was a valued source of vitamin C and helped prevent scurvy. Tea of spearmint has been used to treat many ailments, including nausea, hiccups, and poor digestion. The extract of spearmint is a very popular flavor for chewing gum, toothpaste, beverages, and candy, in addition to being a common ingredient in personal care products.
Mustard: Red Giant (Heirloom) (Brassica juncea)
$1.00 - $5.60
Mustard greens originated near the Himalayan region of northern India, where they have been growing for thousands of years. Chinese, Japanese, and African cuisine also make use of this peppery vegetable. Though not particularly well known in most parts of the United States, mustard greens are a traditional part of culture in the southern region.
Mustard: Tendergreen (Heirloom) (Brassica rapa var. perviridis)
$1.00 - $5.60
Mustard greens originated near the Himalayan region of northern India, where they have been growing for thousands of years. Chinese, Japanese, and African cuisine also make use of this peppery vegetable. Though not particularly well known in most parts of the United States, mustard greens are a traditional part of culture in the southern region.
Parsley: Hamburg Rooted (Heirloom) (Petroselinum crispum var. tuberosum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Parsley has a long and colorful history, being well known in many cultures. Myths and legends abound concerning this herb, making it the symbol of such widely varying things as death, victory, and life. One colonial superstition connecting parsley with death held such power that many farmers refused to grow this herb at all. Curly leaved parsley is the most well known and commonly available herb; it contains vitamins A and C as well as other valuable antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals.
Parsley: Italian Giant (Heirloom) (Petroselinum crispum var. neapolitanum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Only a few left!
Parsley has a long and colorful history, being well known in many cultures. Myths and legends abound concerning this herb, making it the symbol of such widely varying things as death, victory, and life. One colonial superstition connecting parsley with death held such power that many farmers refused to grow this herb at all. Curly leaved parsley is the most well known and commonly available herb; it contains vitamins A and C as well as other valuable antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals.
Penstemon: Rocky Mountain (Penstemon strictus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Sold out
Hardy, drought tolerant, and stunningly beautiful, what more could you want? Rich indigo blooms tower high on this Beardtongue, and are loved by hummingbirds and bees. Rocky Mountain Penstemon is one of the easiest Beardtongues to grow, and has a long blooming period of about a month in the Spring. A real show stopper!
Poached Egg Plant (Limnanthes douglasii)
$1.00 - $5.60
This native species was first discovered by David Douglas, a Scottish botanist commissioned to collect native American plants suitable for the gardens of Great Britain. The species name "douglasii" honors his discovery, while the genus name "Limnanthes" means "marsh flower" because of this plant's preference for moist soil. This fragrant butterfly magnet has been awarded the Royal Horticultural Society's prestigious Award of Garden Merit.
Savory: Summer (Satureja hortensis)
$1.00 - $5.60
Summer savory, a delicately spicy herb native to the Mediterranean region, was widely used by Greek and Roman cultures in their traditional cuisine; it is still used often in modern Italian dishes. Records suggest that savory was introduced to England during Caesar's reign, where it became extremely popular both for culinary and medicinal use, and acquired the name "savory" because of its excellent flavor. Because of its noted compatibility with beans, German cooks call this "the bean herb." Savory nicely complements the flavor of other herbs and is often used in herb combinations such as Herbes de Provence, a French seasoning. This herb also has extensive medical benefits, relieving ailments such as asthma, the common cold, or a persistent cough. Gardeners have always known that a sprig of savory used as a poultice provides a soothing remedy for stings, insect bites, and skin irritations. Its antiseptic and antibacterial properties treat a wide variety of ills, giving it a reputation for being the "healing herb."
Tomato: Amana Orange (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
The Amana Orange tomato is an Iowa heirloom obtained from Gary Staley of Brandon, Florida, who named it for the Amana Colonies of Amana, Iowa. The Amana Colonies, a National Historic Landmark since 1965, were completely self sufficient German Pietist communities. The Colonies imported with them their traditions and handcrafts from Germany, including heirloom vegetables such as Amana Orange.
Tomato: Arkansas Traveler (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
The Arkansas Traveler is an open-pollinated heirloom variety of tomato that was bred by the University of Arkansas in 1968. The plant is indeterminate with round red fruits weighing approximately 6-8 ounces
Tomato: Beefsteak (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Seed expert Peter Henderson introduced this tomato in 1894, naming it "Henderson's Crimson Cushion." Later renamed Beefsteak, it became a favorite of gardeners in the Northeast. It was developed for resistance to fusarium wilt and nematodes, as well as meaty flesh for eating fresh or cooking.
Tomato: Black Krim (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Black tomatoes originated in Russia, and first reached the United States with solders returning home from the Crimean War. Black Krim, considered one of the best of the black tomatoes, comes from the Crimean peninsula in the Black Sea. Lars Olov Rosenstrom of Sweden found this excellent variety in Krim, Russia in 1990.
Tomato: Green Zebra (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Seed expert Tom Wagner of Everett, Washington bred Green Zebra from several green tomato varieties, including Evergreen. Since he was young, Tom had been fascinated with green tomatoes, but was disappointed with their tendency to crack. He set out to create a new green tomato, and Green Zebra was the result; he first offered it for sale in his seed catalog in 1983.
Tomato: Hillbilly (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
This multicolored heirloom tomato originates in the mountains of West Virginia. Ohio gardener Jerry Lee Bosner introduced this seed to Seed Savers Exchange for commercial use in 1994.
Tomato: Italian Roma (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Tomatoes first arrived in Italy with the return of European explorers from South America, bringing with them the unknown "tomatl," a member of the nightshade family that was considered poisonous for centuries and only used for decoration. Though Italians didn't discover the merits of tomatoes as a vegetable until the 18th century, they quickly became a staple ingredient in Italian sauces and pasta. The Roma tomato, also called an Italian plum tomato, performs excellently for sauces because of its low water content.