Carrots: Danvers (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
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The origin of carrots is somewhat obscure, but early records from many civilizations refer to this colorful root. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California. Danvers carrots in particular come from Danvers, Massachusetts, where the Eastern States Farmers Exchange introduced them in 1947.
Scientific Name: Daucus carota
Ease of Growing: Easy
Grown as: Biennial
Days to Maturity: 65-85 days
Hardiness: Hardy. Carrots are fully hardy and in mild climates they will continue to grow right through the winter. They can be frost tolerant.
Crops: Spring, Fall.
Growing Season: Short
Growing Conditions: Cold, Cool, Warm. Carrots need full sun for best production, though they may do okay in part shade in hot climates. They also like a fairly warm soil.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 45°F - 75°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 45°F. Carrots germinate very slowly in cold soil, so it's best to allow the soil to warm up a little. It takes 50 days for them to germinate at 40 degrees, but only 17 days at 50 degrees.
Start Indoors: No
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Full Sun. Min. 6 hours daily (Cold, Cool, Warm). Carrots need full sun for best production, though they may do okay in part shade.
Water: Medium. Carrots need a steady and even supply of moisture for good growth. Too little water may result in excessively hairy roots (produced to search for water), or woody roots with marked rings. Too much water may cause the roots to split, encourage too much top growth or result in poorly flavored roots. Extreme fluctuations of soil moisture between dry and wet conditions may cause cracking of the roots.
Feeder: Light. Carrots are surprisingly light feeders considering the amount of food they produce.
Suitability: Tolerates light frost, Needs summer shade
Small Gardens?: Yes
Containers?: Yes. Though most carrot varieties don't do well in containers, some of the short or half long types can be grown in fairly deep containers. Choose a pot that has drainage holes in the bottom and is at least 12" deep and 18" wide. Fill with potting soil, water thoroughly, and allow to drain. Plant your carrots 1 1/2" - 3" apart so they have enough room to grow. Keep the soil moist and place in an area that has access to at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. Baby carrots will do better than other types of carrots in containers.
Attracts beneficial insects?: No
Forage: Rabbits. Greens are safe but limit amount of carrots due to high sugar content!
Maintenance: Low
Height: 12-18"
Spacing: 2-4"
Sowing Depth: 1/4"
Produces: 7" long, nearly coreless orange carrots.
USDA Hardiness Zone: 2-11
Ease of Growing: Easy
Grown as: Biennial
Days to Maturity: 65-85 days
Hardiness: Hardy. Carrots are fully hardy and in mild climates they will continue to grow right through the winter. They can be frost tolerant.
Crops: Spring, Fall.
Growing Season: Short
Growing Conditions: Cold, Cool, Warm. Carrots need full sun for best production, though they may do okay in part shade in hot climates. They also like a fairly warm soil.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 45°F - 75°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 45°F. Carrots germinate very slowly in cold soil, so it's best to allow the soil to warm up a little. It takes 50 days for them to germinate at 40 degrees, but only 17 days at 50 degrees.
Start Indoors: No
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Full Sun. Min. 6 hours daily (Cold, Cool, Warm). Carrots need full sun for best production, though they may do okay in part shade.
Water: Medium. Carrots need a steady and even supply of moisture for good growth. Too little water may result in excessively hairy roots (produced to search for water), or woody roots with marked rings. Too much water may cause the roots to split, encourage too much top growth or result in poorly flavored roots. Extreme fluctuations of soil moisture between dry and wet conditions may cause cracking of the roots.
Feeder: Light. Carrots are surprisingly light feeders considering the amount of food they produce.
Suitability: Tolerates light frost, Needs summer shade
Small Gardens?: Yes
Containers?: Yes. Though most carrot varieties don't do well in containers, some of the short or half long types can be grown in fairly deep containers. Choose a pot that has drainage holes in the bottom and is at least 12" deep and 18" wide. Fill with potting soil, water thoroughly, and allow to drain. Plant your carrots 1 1/2" - 3" apart so they have enough room to grow. Keep the soil moist and place in an area that has access to at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. Baby carrots will do better than other types of carrots in containers.
Attracts beneficial insects?: No
Forage: Rabbits. Greens are safe but limit amount of carrots due to high sugar content!
Maintenance: Low
Height: 12-18"
Spacing: 2-4"
Sowing Depth: 1/4"
Produces: 7" long, nearly coreless orange carrots.
USDA Hardiness Zone: 2-11
Soil Preference:
Soil pH: 6.0-7.5, Ideal 6.5-7.0. This is a crop where the soil can make a big difference. The ideal soil for growing carrots is a well aerated, sandy loam, free of stones, well drained, rich in humus and fairly neutral (they don't like acid soil). The most critical factor is porosity; a loose soil can increase the size of the roots by as much as 100%. They don't like heavy clay or compacted soils of any kind. A seedbed for Carrots should have a fairly fine tilth and no large stones or other debris.
Soil Preparation:
Standard Mix, 5 pounds per 100 sq. ft., in top 10" of soil, 1 time: A standard mix will supply any additional nutrients required and should be incorporated into the soil along with the compost. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting.
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Compost (Nitrogen), 2" in top 10" of soil, 1 time: Carrots like a light soil, so the main task is to loosen it to a depth of 10˝ (minimum) and incorporate organic matter (compost or aged manure). Remove any large stones (these may cause forking) and other debris. If your soil is particularly heavy or compacted, the best solution is to double dig, incorporating lots of organic matter and then making raised beds. If this is too much work you could grow your carrots in narrow trenches filled with a special soil mix. If even this is too much, you could use a short stubby carrot variety. A simple way to ensure a loose soil for Carrots is to precede them with Potatoes. The soil will have been heavily amended and deeply dug and any organic matter will have aged nicely. They can also follow Brassicas, or any other crop that was heavily manured.
Soil pH: 6.0-7.5, Ideal 6.5-7.0. This is a crop where the soil can make a big difference. The ideal soil for growing carrots is a well aerated, sandy loam, free of stones, well drained, rich in humus and fairly neutral (they don't like acid soil). The most critical factor is porosity; a loose soil can increase the size of the roots by as much as 100%. They don't like heavy clay or compacted soils of any kind. A seedbed for Carrots should have a fairly fine tilth and no large stones or other debris.
Soil Preparation:
Standard Mix, 5 pounds per 100 sq. ft., in top 10" of soil, 1 time: A standard mix will supply any additional nutrients required and should be incorporated into the soil along with the compost. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting.
- 4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
- 2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
- 2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
- 1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
- 1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Compost (Nitrogen), 2" in top 10" of soil, 1 time: Carrots like a light soil, so the main task is to loosen it to a depth of 10˝ (minimum) and incorporate organic matter (compost or aged manure). Remove any large stones (these may cause forking) and other debris. If your soil is particularly heavy or compacted, the best solution is to double dig, incorporating lots of organic matter and then making raised beds. If this is too much work you could grow your carrots in narrow trenches filled with a special soil mix. If even this is too much, you could use a short stubby carrot variety. A simple way to ensure a loose soil for Carrots is to precede them with Potatoes. The soil will have been heavily amended and deeply dug and any organic matter will have aged nicely. They can also follow Brassicas, or any other crop that was heavily manured.
When Cold, Cool, Warm: Carrots need full sun for best production, though they may do okay in part shade in hot climates. They also like a fairly warm soil.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 45°F: Carrots germinate very slowly in cold soil, so it's best to allow the soil to warm up a little. It takes 50 days for them to germinate at 40 degrees, but only 17 days at 50 degrees.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil, up to 1/2" deep in warmer soil.
Spacing: 3", 16 plants per sq ft. The right spacing depends on the fertility of the soil, the type of Carrot and the size of the root you want. A wider spacing results in larger roots.
4" (poor soil)
3" (good soil)
Spring Crop: 2-3 weeks before last frost date. You can plant your first carrots 2 to 3 weeks before your last frost, or as soon as the soil is ready to be worked in spring, it depends on soil temperature. Carrots can be grown right through the summer, though they aren't as good when growing in hot weather.
Intensive beds:
1. Place 2 to 3 seeds in 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ deep drills 3" apart.
Rows: Plant short rows of Carrots across the bed, as this wastes less seed and makes it easier to thin and deal with weeds.
1. Scrape 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ deep furrows with a hoe and sow the seed at roughly half the desired spacing (3" apart).
2. Then close up the furrows (preferably with the same soil and compost mix used to cover the broadcast seeds). Some people mix a little Radish seed in with the Carrot seed, to mark the rows and break up any soil crust.
Broadcasting:
1. You can broadcast the seeds 1/2˝ apart.
2. Cover the seeds on the bed with a thin 1/8˝ to 1/4˝ layer of soil. If your topsoil has a tendency to crust, you may want to use a mix of sifted soil and compost.
The main thing to remember when broadcasting is to sow the seeds at the right density. Beginners usually plant too thickly, which wastes seed and necessitates some tedious hand thinning. Sowing Carrot seed is tricky because it is small and light. You might try mixing the small seeds with sand, to make it easier to distribute them evenly.
Fall Crop: 8-10 weeks before first frost date. Fall Carrots should be sown from mid to late summer (a minimum of 8 to 10 weeks before the first frost) to give them time to mature before it gets too cold. In mild climates they will continue to grow right through the winter. They must be started early though, so they are almost mature by the time the first frost hits. If they are too small when cold weather arrives, they will simply sit in the ground until spring and then bolt. Make one large planting for winter use, as you will be eating them for months.
Intensive beds:
1. Place 2 to 3 seeds in 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ deep drills 2" apart.
Rows: Plant short rows of Carrots across the bed, as this wastes less seed and makes it easier to thin and deal with weeds.
1. Scrape 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ deep furrows with a hoe and sow the seed at roughly half the desired spacing (1" apart).
2. Then close up the furrows (preferably with the same soil and compost mix used to cover the broadcast seeds). Some people mix a little Radish seed in with the Carrot seed, to mark the rows and break up any soil crust.
Broadcasting:
1. You can broadcast the seeds 1/2˝ apart.
2. Cover the seeds on the bed with a thin 1/8˝ to 1/4˝ layer of soil. If your topsoil has a tendency to crust, you may want to use a mix of sifted soil and compost.
The main thing to remember when broadcasting is to sow the seeds at the right density. Beginners usually plant too thickly, which wastes seed and necessitates some tedious hand thinning. Sowing Carrot seed is tricky because it is small and light. You might try mixing the small seeds with sand, to make it easier to distribute them evenly.
Support: No
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 45°F: Carrots germinate very slowly in cold soil, so it's best to allow the soil to warm up a little. It takes 50 days for them to germinate at 40 degrees, but only 17 days at 50 degrees.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil, up to 1/2" deep in warmer soil.
Spacing: 3", 16 plants per sq ft. The right spacing depends on the fertility of the soil, the type of Carrot and the size of the root you want. A wider spacing results in larger roots.
4" (poor soil)
3" (good soil)
Spring Crop: 2-3 weeks before last frost date. You can plant your first carrots 2 to 3 weeks before your last frost, or as soon as the soil is ready to be worked in spring, it depends on soil temperature. Carrots can be grown right through the summer, though they aren't as good when growing in hot weather.
Intensive beds:
1. Place 2 to 3 seeds in 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ deep drills 3" apart.
Rows: Plant short rows of Carrots across the bed, as this wastes less seed and makes it easier to thin and deal with weeds.
1. Scrape 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ deep furrows with a hoe and sow the seed at roughly half the desired spacing (3" apart).
2. Then close up the furrows (preferably with the same soil and compost mix used to cover the broadcast seeds). Some people mix a little Radish seed in with the Carrot seed, to mark the rows and break up any soil crust.
Broadcasting:
1. You can broadcast the seeds 1/2˝ apart.
2. Cover the seeds on the bed with a thin 1/8˝ to 1/4˝ layer of soil. If your topsoil has a tendency to crust, you may want to use a mix of sifted soil and compost.
The main thing to remember when broadcasting is to sow the seeds at the right density. Beginners usually plant too thickly, which wastes seed and necessitates some tedious hand thinning. Sowing Carrot seed is tricky because it is small and light. You might try mixing the small seeds with sand, to make it easier to distribute them evenly.
Fall Crop: 8-10 weeks before first frost date. Fall Carrots should be sown from mid to late summer (a minimum of 8 to 10 weeks before the first frost) to give them time to mature before it gets too cold. In mild climates they will continue to grow right through the winter. They must be started early though, so they are almost mature by the time the first frost hits. If they are too small when cold weather arrives, they will simply sit in the ground until spring and then bolt. Make one large planting for winter use, as you will be eating them for months.
Intensive beds:
1. Place 2 to 3 seeds in 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ deep drills 2" apart.
Rows: Plant short rows of Carrots across the bed, as this wastes less seed and makes it easier to thin and deal with weeds.
1. Scrape 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ deep furrows with a hoe and sow the seed at roughly half the desired spacing (1" apart).
2. Then close up the furrows (preferably with the same soil and compost mix used to cover the broadcast seeds). Some people mix a little Radish seed in with the Carrot seed, to mark the rows and break up any soil crust.
Broadcasting:
1. You can broadcast the seeds 1/2˝ apart.
2. Cover the seeds on the bed with a thin 1/8˝ to 1/4˝ layer of soil. If your topsoil has a tendency to crust, you may want to use a mix of sifted soil and compost.
The main thing to remember when broadcasting is to sow the seeds at the right density. Beginners usually plant too thickly, which wastes seed and necessitates some tedious hand thinning. Sowing Carrot seed is tricky because it is small and light. You might try mixing the small seeds with sand, to make it easier to distribute them evenly.
Support: No
Prompt weeding and thinning are the keys to growing good carrots. Take care of these tasks and you should succeed, neglect them and you will likely fail. Happily both of these tasks can be done at the same time.
Water Needs: Moderate. Carrots need a steady and even supply of moisture for good growth. Too little water may result in excessively hairy roots (produced to search for water), or woody roots with marked rings. Too much water may cause the roots to split, encourage too much top growth or result in poorly flavored roots. Extreme fluctuations of soil moisture between dry and wet conditions may cause cracking of the roots. Water, 0.5 inch(es), after sowing, 2 times a week It is crucial that the seedbed be watered regularly until all of the seeds have germinated. A general rule is to allow 50% of the surface of the bed to dry out and then water again. Don’t water too heavily, or the light seeds may be washed around, resulting in an uneven stand, with bare patches and very dense patches. The 1" of rain is the total for the week, but is applied in small quantities every day. Carrots need a steady and even supply of moisture for good growth. Too little water may result in excessively hairy roots (produced to search for water), or woody roots with marked rings. Too much water may cause the roots to split. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Carrots are surprisingly light feeders considering the amount of food they produce.
Weeding, after sowing: after sowing, every 2 weeks. More than most crops, carrots are susceptible to weeds. If these are not removed promptly they will quickly smother the sparsely leafed seedlings. Your first priority must be to weed (and thin) the newly emerged plants. Weeds will have to be removed by hand from broadcast beds. Row plantings can be hoed if widely spaced, though some hand weeding is usually needed also.
Side Dressing, after planting: Mulch, 2", after planting, 1 time. Mulch conserves moisture and keeps down weeds and covers the shoulders of the root, preventing them turning green and inedible from exposure to light.
In winter a deeper (6") mulch can keep the ground from freezing and help to prevent the roots being heaved by frost.
Thinning, when 3" tall: 1" apart, when 3" tall, 1 time. After all the seedlings have germinated and are growing well, you will have to thin them. This is the most critical step of all; if the plants are packed too closely together they simply won’t produce swollen roots. The earlier you thin (and weed) the easier it will be. The initial thinning is done when the seedlings are about 2" to 3˝ tall and you should leave the plants about an inch apart. If you have a large area to thin, this can be done with a wire rake (carefully, by simply raking out excess plants).
Thinning, when 4" tall: 3" apart, when 4" tall, 8 weeks. A second thinning (and weeding) should be done 2 to 4 weeks after the first. This time you thin to the desired spacing by hand. It is important to remove all of the uprooted plants from the area after thinning as the smell of damaged foliage can attract the Carrot Rust Fly. Ideally you thin on cool cloudy days, or in late evening, and water afterward to reduce the smell of Carrot.
Thinning, when 6" tall: when 6" tall, 1 time. During the growing season thin Carrots to the variety requirements. You may continually thin which will allow you to eat tender young Carrots. This is a process that can be utilized until the crop reaches full maturity. Thin Carrots before they reach full size, you should thin and harvest alternate plants, as this gives the remaining plants more room to grow. Just be sure you don’t disturb their roots. Alternatively you could take the largest plants first, leaving the others to size up.
Watering, during fruit production: Water, 0.5 inches, during fruit production, 3 times a week Giving the plants extra water when the roots start to size up can boost yields considerably (though there is a danger it will cause the roots to split). Increase your watering from 2 to 3 times a week. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Support: No
Water Needs: Moderate. Carrots need a steady and even supply of moisture for good growth. Too little water may result in excessively hairy roots (produced to search for water), or woody roots with marked rings. Too much water may cause the roots to split, encourage too much top growth or result in poorly flavored roots. Extreme fluctuations of soil moisture between dry and wet conditions may cause cracking of the roots. Water, 0.5 inch(es), after sowing, 2 times a week It is crucial that the seedbed be watered regularly until all of the seeds have germinated. A general rule is to allow 50% of the surface of the bed to dry out and then water again. Don’t water too heavily, or the light seeds may be washed around, resulting in an uneven stand, with bare patches and very dense patches. The 1" of rain is the total for the week, but is applied in small quantities every day. Carrots need a steady and even supply of moisture for good growth. Too little water may result in excessively hairy roots (produced to search for water), or woody roots with marked rings. Too much water may cause the roots to split. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Carrots are surprisingly light feeders considering the amount of food they produce.
Weeding, after sowing: after sowing, every 2 weeks. More than most crops, carrots are susceptible to weeds. If these are not removed promptly they will quickly smother the sparsely leafed seedlings. Your first priority must be to weed (and thin) the newly emerged plants. Weeds will have to be removed by hand from broadcast beds. Row plantings can be hoed if widely spaced, though some hand weeding is usually needed also.
Side Dressing, after planting: Mulch, 2", after planting, 1 time. Mulch conserves moisture and keeps down weeds and covers the shoulders of the root, preventing them turning green and inedible from exposure to light.
In winter a deeper (6") mulch can keep the ground from freezing and help to prevent the roots being heaved by frost.
Thinning, when 3" tall: 1" apart, when 3" tall, 1 time. After all the seedlings have germinated and are growing well, you will have to thin them. This is the most critical step of all; if the plants are packed too closely together they simply won’t produce swollen roots. The earlier you thin (and weed) the easier it will be. The initial thinning is done when the seedlings are about 2" to 3˝ tall and you should leave the plants about an inch apart. If you have a large area to thin, this can be done with a wire rake (carefully, by simply raking out excess plants).
Thinning, when 4" tall: 3" apart, when 4" tall, 8 weeks. A second thinning (and weeding) should be done 2 to 4 weeks after the first. This time you thin to the desired spacing by hand. It is important to remove all of the uprooted plants from the area after thinning as the smell of damaged foliage can attract the Carrot Rust Fly. Ideally you thin on cool cloudy days, or in late evening, and water afterward to reduce the smell of Carrot.
Thinning, when 6" tall: when 6" tall, 1 time. During the growing season thin Carrots to the variety requirements. You may continually thin which will allow you to eat tender young Carrots. This is a process that can be utilized until the crop reaches full maturity. Thin Carrots before they reach full size, you should thin and harvest alternate plants, as this gives the remaining plants more room to grow. Just be sure you don’t disturb their roots. Alternatively you could take the largest plants first, leaving the others to size up.
Watering, during fruit production: Water, 0.5 inches, during fruit production, 3 times a week Giving the plants extra water when the roots start to size up can boost yields considerably (though there is a danger it will cause the roots to split). Increase your watering from 2 to 3 times a week. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Support: No
Harvesting
Ripening:
Consider the days to maturity on the package then part the top soil and see if the tops are the desired thickness. You can also pull one up to see the size.
After they get over 2 inches in diameter they may start to get woody (again a lot depends on the variety). Mature roots are often a deeper orange color, which indicates that they contain more carotene.
When and How:
Whole Plant, 1-56 days after maturity:
When: Start pulling the roots as soon as they are large enough to be worthwhile. The larger rooted plants tend to give themselves away by having darker foliage.
In the case of carrots, small isn’t necessarily beautiful. Immature carrots are the most tender, but generally have little flavor as they haven’t had the chance to store much sugar (they may even be quite acrid). Commercial baby carrots are really just varieties with naturally small roots, planted closely together. They are still harvested when mature.
Larger carrots are sweeter and better flavored than small ones, but after they get over an inch in diameter they may start to get woody (again a lot depends on the variety). Mature roots are often a deeper orange color, which indicates that they contain more carotene.
How: If you plan on harvesting a large quantity of roots, you should water the soil beforehand to loosen it. In light soil you can simply pull up the roots by gently tugging on the tops, but if you do this in heavy soil the tops will simply break off. You have to loosen them with a fork before pulling them. Any carrot debris remaining after the harvest should be removed and composted. Never leave it on the ground near the plants, as the smell of the damaged foliage may attract the Rust Fly.
Some people say you should start your harvest at one end of the bed and work your way down, rather than harvest thinning. We recommend that you pull the biggest roots as you need them and leave the rest to grow on.
Consider the days to maturity on the package then part the top soil and see if the tops are the desired thickness. You can also pull one up to see the size.
After they get over 2 inches in diameter they may start to get woody (again a lot depends on the variety). Mature roots are often a deeper orange color, which indicates that they contain more carotene.
When and How:
Whole Plant, 1-56 days after maturity:
When: Start pulling the roots as soon as they are large enough to be worthwhile. The larger rooted plants tend to give themselves away by having darker foliage.
In the case of carrots, small isn’t necessarily beautiful. Immature carrots are the most tender, but generally have little flavor as they haven’t had the chance to store much sugar (they may even be quite acrid). Commercial baby carrots are really just varieties with naturally small roots, planted closely together. They are still harvested when mature.
Larger carrots are sweeter and better flavored than small ones, but after they get over an inch in diameter they may start to get woody (again a lot depends on the variety). Mature roots are often a deeper orange color, which indicates that they contain more carotene.
How: If you plan on harvesting a large quantity of roots, you should water the soil beforehand to loosen it. In light soil you can simply pull up the roots by gently tugging on the tops, but if you do this in heavy soil the tops will simply break off. You have to loosen them with a fork before pulling them. Any carrot debris remaining after the harvest should be removed and composted. Never leave it on the ground near the plants, as the smell of the damaged foliage may attract the Rust Fly.
Some people say you should start your harvest at one end of the bed and work your way down, rather than harvest thinning. We recommend that you pull the biggest roots as you need them and leave the rest to grow on.
Storage
The best place to store Carrots is in the ground. They keep better and it is a lot less work. In mild climates they will continue to grow through the winter and slowly get bigger. You just harvest them as needed. In colder climates the tops will die back when cold weather hits. When this happens cover them with 6˝ to 12˝ of mulch (this needs to be deep to prevent the ground from freezing). The roots actually get sweeter in cold weather, as some of their starch is converted into sugar. If you aren’t going to eat the roots quickly, you should remove all but 1˝ of the tops, as these drain moisture from the root. If you are going to store the roots for any length of time, you should leave them in the sun for several hours to kill the root hairs. Any damaged roots should be used immediately, as they won’t store well. Don’t wash any Carrots you intend to store.
Storage Req: Ground
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: days
You can store carrots in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for several weeks.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: days
Storage Req: Ground
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: days
You can store carrots in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for several weeks.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: days
Carrot is a biennial, so stores food in its first year and flowers and produces seed the following year. Select some of your very best roots for seed production. Never gather seed from early flowering plants. Uproot and get rid of them before they have a chance to pollinate the rest.
In harsh climates you will have to protect the roots over the winter as described previously. Replant them in the spring and wait for them to flower.
The flowers are cross-pollinated by insects and will cross with any other Carrots or Wild Carrots (Queen Annes Lace) within a half mile. The best seed is produced on the primary umbel, which is the first to ripen. The second umbel is pretty good too, so take it from these two. When the seed heads are ripe, cut them and leave in a paper grocery bag to dry thoroughly.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-5 years
Germination Percentage: 50%
In harsh climates you will have to protect the roots over the winter as described previously. Replant them in the spring and wait for them to flower.
The flowers are cross-pollinated by insects and will cross with any other Carrots or Wild Carrots (Queen Annes Lace) within a half mile. The best seed is produced on the primary umbel, which is the first to ripen. The second umbel is pretty good too, so take it from these two. When the seed heads are ripe, cut them and leave in a paper grocery bag to dry thoroughly.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-5 years
Germination Percentage: 50%
Culinary
Taste:
Very sweet and tender.
Culinary Use:
Carrots are so sweet and rich in flavor they can be eaten raw or steamed, used in soups and sauces. Eat or cook fresh carrots out of the garden with other seasonal greens or by themselves with a touch of fresh butter--it's the reason you garden.
These conical shaped carrots are wonderful for soups.
Root: raw or cooked. The roots of well-grown plants are crisp, sweet and juicy, they are very nice raw and are also cooked as a vegetable or added to soups, stews etc. The grated root is a tasty addition to the salad bowl. The juice can be extracted from the root and used as a health-promoting drink. The root is very rich in carotene, which is transformed by the body into vitamin A when it is eaten. The root is sometimes ground into a powder and used in making cakes, bread etc. The roasted root is a coffee substitute. Carotin, extracted from the roots, is used as an orange-yellow food dye.
Leaves: raw or cooked. A very strong flavor, they can be added in small quantities to mixed salads. The leaves contain an oil that is rich in vitamin E, they are sometimes used as a flavoring in soups.
Seed: An essential oil from the seed is used as a food flavoring.
Very sweet and tender.
Culinary Use:
Carrots are so sweet and rich in flavor they can be eaten raw or steamed, used in soups and sauces. Eat or cook fresh carrots out of the garden with other seasonal greens or by themselves with a touch of fresh butter--it's the reason you garden.
These conical shaped carrots are wonderful for soups.
Root: raw or cooked. The roots of well-grown plants are crisp, sweet and juicy, they are very nice raw and are also cooked as a vegetable or added to soups, stews etc. The grated root is a tasty addition to the salad bowl. The juice can be extracted from the root and used as a health-promoting drink. The root is very rich in carotene, which is transformed by the body into vitamin A when it is eaten. The root is sometimes ground into a powder and used in making cakes, bread etc. The roasted root is a coffee substitute. Carotin, extracted from the roots, is used as an orange-yellow food dye.
Leaves: raw or cooked. A very strong flavor, they can be added in small quantities to mixed salads. The leaves contain an oil that is rich in vitamin E, they are sometimes used as a flavoring in soups.
Seed: An essential oil from the seed is used as a food flavoring.
Medicinal
Cultivated carrot roots are a rich source of beta-carotene, which is converted to vitamin A by the liver. When used as a regular item in the diet the roots improve eyesight and skin health, and also have anti-cancer effects. A wonderful cleansing medicine, it supports the liver and stimulates urine flow and the removal of waste by the kidneys. The root is diuretic and ophthalmic. The juice of organic carrots is a delicious drink and a valuable detoxifier. The raw root, grated or mashed, is a safe treatment for threadworms, especially in children. The seed is carminative, galactogogue, lithontripic and stimulant. They are useful in the treatment of kidney diseases, dropsy and to settle the digestive system. They stimulate menstruation and have been used in folk medicine as a treatment for hangovers.
Known hazards: Carrots sometimes cause allergic reactions in some people. Skin contact with the sap is said to cause photo-sensitivity and/or dermatitis in some people.
Known hazards: Carrots sometimes cause allergic reactions in some people. Skin contact with the sap is said to cause photo-sensitivity and/or dermatitis in some people.
Project Purity Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting
Companions: Their pals are chives, leaf lettuce, leeks, marigolds, onions, parsley, radish, salsify and tomatoes. Sow leeks and carrots in the same row for protection against carrot fly. Then harvest the carrots and leave the leeks to mature for later. For onions and carrots plant them in separate rows next to each other to repel carrots flies. Flax produces an oil that may protect root vegetables like carrots from some pests. One drawback with tomatoes and carrots: tomato plants can stunt the growth of your carrots but the carrots will still be of good flavor.
Enemies: Plant dill, fennel, kohlrabi and parsnips away from carrots.
Enemies: Plant dill, fennel, kohlrabi and parsnips away from carrots.
Problems
No serious insect or disease problems. Carrot rust fly maggot and wireworm are potential insect problems. Aster yellows (inner foliage yellows and stunts with stunted taproot) is a potential disease problem (spread by leafhoppers).
Carrot Rust Fly
Beneficial insects such as Ground Beetles prey on Carrot Rust Fly Maggots.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado Potato Beetles, Carrot Rust Fly Maggots, Wireworms, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Wireworms
Beneficial insects such as Ground Beetles prey on Wireworms.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado Potato Beetles, Carrot Rust Fly Maggots, Wireworms, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Nutrition
Carrots are famous for their high content of beta carotene, which the body converts into vitamin A (it is a powerful antioxidant). The orange color is caused by carotene (a precursor of vitamin A), so the redder the root the more nutritious it is. Carrots are also a good source of potassium and contain calcium pectate, which can lower blood cholesterol. Eating 4 raw carrots daily has been known to reduce blood cholesterol level by 10% in only 4 weeks.
Health Benefits of Carrots
Prevention of Heart Disease: In a study meant to reveal the therapeutic value of carrots, researchers at the Wolfson Gastrointestinal Laboratory in Edinburgh, Scotland revealed that cholesterol level drops by an average of 11 percent if seven ounces of raw carrots per day are taken for thee weeks. High cholesterol is a major factor for heart disease. Since regular consumption of carrots reduces cholesterol levels, it is a good idea to consume a healthy dose of carrots, in order to prevent heart-related problems. A group of Swedish scientists discovered that these root vegetables can reduce the chances of having a heart attack. A study conducted at the Mario Negri Institute of Pharmacological Research in Italy found that those who ate more carrots had 1/3 as high a risk of heart attack as compared with those who ate less carrots.
Blood Pressure: Next time you start getting riled up about something and your blood begins to boil, eat a carrot! Carrots are rich sources of potassium, which is a vasodilator and can relax the tension in your blood vessels and arteries, thereby increasing blood flow and circulation, boosting organ function throughout the body, and reducing the stress on the cardiovascular system. High blood pressure is also directly linked to atherosclerosis, strokes, and heart attacks, so this is yet another heart-healthy aspect of carrots! The coumarin found in carrots also has been linked to reducing hypertension and protecting your heart health!
Immune Booster: Carrots contain a number of antiseptic and antibacterial abilities that make it ideal for boosting the immune system. Not only that, carrots are a rich source of vitamin C, which stimulates the activity of white blood cells and is one of the most important elements in the human immune system.
Digestion: Carrots, like most vegetables, have significant amounts of dietary fiber in those orange roots, and fiber is one of the most important elements in maintaining good digestive health. Fiber adds bulk to stool, which helps it to pass smoothly through the digestive tract, and it also stimulates peristaltic motion and the secretion of gastric juices. Altogether, this reduces the severity of conditions like constipation, and protects your colon and stomach from various serious illnesses, including colorectal cancer. Fiber also boosts heart health by helping to eliminate excess LDL cholesterol from the walls of arteries and blood vessels.
Prevents Cancer: Beta-carotene consumption has been linked to a reduced risk of several cancers, notably lung cancer. British researchers discovered that increasing beta-carotene consumption from 1.7 to 2.7 milligrams per day reduced lung cancer risk by more than 40 percent. The average carrot contains about three milligrams of beta-carotene. In a separate study, researchers found that eating fiber-rich carrots reduce the risk of colon cancer by as much as 24 percent. Another study shows that women who ate raw carrots were five to eight times less likely to develop breast cancer than women who did not eat carrots. Further research into the application of both carrots and beta-carotene in relation to other forms of cancer is ongoing.
Macular Degeneration: This is a common eye disease of the elderly that impairs the function of the macula. Research has found that people who ate the most amount of beta-carotene had a forty percent lower risk of macular degeneration compared with those who consumed the least. Beta-carotene can also split itself via an enzymatic reaction to form provitamin A, which is often associated with antioxidant capacity in relation to vision. Therefore, carrots are an all-around vision booster.
Improves Eyesight: Deficiency of vitamin A can cause some difficulty seeing in dim light. Since carrots are rich in vitamin A, it is good for improving eyesight and preventing conditions like night blindness from developing as we age.
Oral Health: The organic compounds in carrots all by themselves are good for mineral antioxidants, but carrots also stimulate the gums and induce excess saliva. Saliva is an alkaline substance and combats the bacteria and foreign bodies that can often result in cavities, halitosis, and other oral health risks.
Stroke: Eating a carrot every day reduces the risk of stroke by 68%. Many studies have strengthened the belief in the “carrot effect” on the brain. Studies conducted on stroke patients revealed that those with highest levels of beta carotene had the highest survival rate.
Diabetes: Carrots are good for blood sugar regulation due to the presence of carotenoids in this delicious vegetable. Carotenoids inversely affect insulin resistance and thus lower blood sugar, thereby helping diabetic patients live a normal, healthy life. They also regulate the amount of insulin and glucose that is being used and metabolized by the body, providing a more even and healthy fluctuation for diabetic patients.
Carrots have antiseptic qualities and can therefore be used as laxatives, vermicides and as a remedy for liver conditions. Carrot oil is good for dry skin because it makes the skin softer, smoother and firmer. Furthermore, carrot juice improves stomach and gastrointestinal health.
Thus, carrots, as raw fruits, juice or in cooked form, are always a good choice for your health!
Blood Pressure: Next time you start getting riled up about something and your blood begins to boil, eat a carrot! Carrots are rich sources of potassium, which is a vasodilator and can relax the tension in your blood vessels and arteries, thereby increasing blood flow and circulation, boosting organ function throughout the body, and reducing the stress on the cardiovascular system. High blood pressure is also directly linked to atherosclerosis, strokes, and heart attacks, so this is yet another heart-healthy aspect of carrots! The coumarin found in carrots also has been linked to reducing hypertension and protecting your heart health!
Immune Booster: Carrots contain a number of antiseptic and antibacterial abilities that make it ideal for boosting the immune system. Not only that, carrots are a rich source of vitamin C, which stimulates the activity of white blood cells and is one of the most important elements in the human immune system.
Digestion: Carrots, like most vegetables, have significant amounts of dietary fiber in those orange roots, and fiber is one of the most important elements in maintaining good digestive health. Fiber adds bulk to stool, which helps it to pass smoothly through the digestive tract, and it also stimulates peristaltic motion and the secretion of gastric juices. Altogether, this reduces the severity of conditions like constipation, and protects your colon and stomach from various serious illnesses, including colorectal cancer. Fiber also boosts heart health by helping to eliminate excess LDL cholesterol from the walls of arteries and blood vessels.
Prevents Cancer: Beta-carotene consumption has been linked to a reduced risk of several cancers, notably lung cancer. British researchers discovered that increasing beta-carotene consumption from 1.7 to 2.7 milligrams per day reduced lung cancer risk by more than 40 percent. The average carrot contains about three milligrams of beta-carotene. In a separate study, researchers found that eating fiber-rich carrots reduce the risk of colon cancer by as much as 24 percent. Another study shows that women who ate raw carrots were five to eight times less likely to develop breast cancer than women who did not eat carrots. Further research into the application of both carrots and beta-carotene in relation to other forms of cancer is ongoing.
Macular Degeneration: This is a common eye disease of the elderly that impairs the function of the macula. Research has found that people who ate the most amount of beta-carotene had a forty percent lower risk of macular degeneration compared with those who consumed the least. Beta-carotene can also split itself via an enzymatic reaction to form provitamin A, which is often associated with antioxidant capacity in relation to vision. Therefore, carrots are an all-around vision booster.
Improves Eyesight: Deficiency of vitamin A can cause some difficulty seeing in dim light. Since carrots are rich in vitamin A, it is good for improving eyesight and preventing conditions like night blindness from developing as we age.
Oral Health: The organic compounds in carrots all by themselves are good for mineral antioxidants, but carrots also stimulate the gums and induce excess saliva. Saliva is an alkaline substance and combats the bacteria and foreign bodies that can often result in cavities, halitosis, and other oral health risks.
Stroke: Eating a carrot every day reduces the risk of stroke by 68%. Many studies have strengthened the belief in the “carrot effect” on the brain. Studies conducted on stroke patients revealed that those with highest levels of beta carotene had the highest survival rate.
Diabetes: Carrots are good for blood sugar regulation due to the presence of carotenoids in this delicious vegetable. Carotenoids inversely affect insulin resistance and thus lower blood sugar, thereby helping diabetic patients live a normal, healthy life. They also regulate the amount of insulin and glucose that is being used and metabolized by the body, providing a more even and healthy fluctuation for diabetic patients.
Carrots have antiseptic qualities and can therefore be used as laxatives, vermicides and as a remedy for liver conditions. Carrot oil is good for dry skin because it makes the skin softer, smoother and firmer. Furthermore, carrot juice improves stomach and gastrointestinal health.
Thus, carrots, as raw fruits, juice or in cooked form, are always a good choice for your health!
The roots are fermented in order to produce alcohol. An orange dye is obtained from the root. An essential oil from the seed has a distinctive fragrance and is used in perfumery.
Suggested Varieties
Amaranth: Love Lies Bleeding (Heirloom) (Amaranthus caudatus)
$1.00 - $5.60
As a decorative flower, Love-Lies-Bleeding grew in many Victorian English gardens; in the language of flowers, it represents hopeless love. In addition to producing lovely flowers, Love-Lies-Bleeding is a form of the grain-producing plant known as amaranth. A staple grain for the Aztecs and Incas, amaranth was referred to as the "golden grain of the gods" and used in religious rituals. The plant nearly died out when the Spanish Conquistadors declared their religious practices barbaric, and made growing amaranth a capital offense. Today, both the leaves and the seeds of amaranth are an important food source in many parts of the world. This unique grain provides an impressive amount of vitamins and minerals, as well as being very rich in protein.
Amaranth: Red Garnet (Heirloom) (Amaranthus tricolor)
$1.00 - $5.60
Amaranth had a sacred status in the ancient civilizations of the Aztecs and Incas, since the grain was used in various religious rituals. It remains a staple food in modern Mexico and some parts of Asia, being prepared in numerous dishes from sweet to savory. One traditional Mexican treat known as "alegria" is made with amaranth grain and honey or molasses. A super grain, amaranth can be used for gluten free flour; it also makes a complete protein when mixed with another grain. In addition, amaranth greens have a higher iron content than any other green vegetable except parsley, as well as containing many valuable vitamins and minerals.
Chives: Garlic (Allium tuberosum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Originating in western China, garlic chives have been used in Asian cuisine for thousands of years. Unlike the traditional tubular leaves of regular chives, garlic chives have flat, narrow blades; some gardeners blanch their garlic chives, causing them to develop a pale yellow color. Traditional pad Thai, Chinese jiaozi, and various Korean dishes such as buchukimchi often contain garlic chives; they also make a popular addition to stir fries, soups, and dishes with eggs or fish. These delicately garlic scented leaves are often used more as a vegetable than an herb, and may also substitute for standard chives. Garlic chives provide abundant vitamins and minerals, including vitamin C, calcium, and iron.
Chives: Onion (Allium schoenoprasum var. album)
$1.00 - $5.60
Chives, the oldest species of edible onion known, has been used in China since about 3000 B.C. The botanical name actually comes from the Greek meaning, "reed-like leek". Chives are now grown all over the world; historical legend states that Marco Polo discovered this herb in China and brought it back to his native land. Medieval gardeners often planted chives around the borders for both decoration and to ward off harmful insects. Traditional medicinal uses, though not as common, included treatment for high cholesterol and poor digestion. Along with parsley, tarragon, and chervil, chives is included in the famous blend of herbs known as "Fines herbes." The onion-like flavor of chives makes them a traditional addition to dishes with cheese, eggs, fish, or potatoes; the flowers make a delicate herbal vinegar, in addition to being a colorful addition to salads.
Clover: Crimson (Trifolium incarnatum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Most commonly known as crimson clover, this wildflower is also called Italian or French clover in reference to it's nativity to Europe. This annual species blooms in a strawberry red, and it's delightful fragrance attracts bees by the score! A non-invasive, annual species of clover, it is often used as a cover-crop. In southern climates, plant it during your off-season, and watch the amazing results of this rich, nitrogen producing plant! The earthworms love it! Also a protein-rich forage crop for cattle and livestock, this gem of a wildflower is indispensable!
Leeks: Giant Musselburg (Heirloom) (Allium porrum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Leeks most likely originated in the Mediterranean region, where they have been cultivated for over 3,000 years. Jewish tradition has included this member of the onion family since their nation's historic sojourn in Egypt. Greek and Roman cultures also record medicinal uses for the leek, and Nero himself ate vast quantities of it with the belief that it would benefit his voice quality. Leeks were later brought to the British Isles by Phonecian traders, where they came to be the national symbol of Wales. This vegetable is not as well known as its close relative, the onion, but chefs and gardeners alike appreciate the leek for its sweeter, more subtle flavor.
Lettuce: Bibb (Heirloom) (Lactuca sativa)
$1.00 - $5.60
This unusual lettuce with a resemblance to both leaf lettuce and iceberg lettuce was first grown by Lt. Jack B. Bibb of Frankfurt, Kentucky in 1935. Lt. Bibb experimented with horticulture in his greenhouse and ended up with this famous variety, which provides the traditional salad lettuce of the Kentucky Derby. Bibb lettuce also has been called "limestone lettuce" because of the high lime content in the Kentucky soil.
Lettuce: Freckles Romaine (Heirloom) (Lactuca sativa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Only a few left!
Freckles heirloom lettuce, originally known by the German name of "Forellenschluss," which means "speckled like a trout's back," comes from Austria and Southern Germany in the late 18th century. Wild lettuce, however, from which modern lettuce is derived, originated in Asia Minor. The ancient historian Herodotus records its presence on the tables of 6th century Persian kings, and throughout the following centuries it became a popular crop all over Europe. Columbus brought it with him to the New World, starting its spread over the North American continent. Without a doubt, lettuce now holds a place in nearly every garden on the globe.
Lettuce: Oakleaf (Heirloom) (Lactuca sativa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Oakleaf lettuce dates back to 1771, when it was introduced by the French seed company Vilmorin. Wild lettuce, however, from which modern lettuce is derived, originated in Asia Minor. The ancient historian Herodotus records its presence on the tables of 6th century Persian kings, and throughout the following centuries it became a popular crop all over Europe. Columbus brought it with him to the New World, starting its spread over the North American continent. Without a doubt, lettuce now holds a place in nearly every garden on the globe.
Lettuce: Red Romaine (Heirloom) (Lactuca sativa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Romaine lettuce, though named for its presence in the papal gardens, dates back to the third millennium BC, where ancient Egyptians depicted this type of lettuce in their bas-reliefs. Another name for Romaine, "Cos," shows another part of its history on the Greek island of Kos. Later, Syrian gardeners began selectively breeding this type of lettuce to have a thick rib and spoon-like shape, since they used lettuce as a spoon for their traditional cuisine.
Marigolds: Naughty Marietta (Tagetes patula)
$1.00 - $5.60
For non-stop bloom until frost, there's nothing better than French marigolds. The single flowers are golden yellow with mahogany streaks, and are very attractive to bees and butterflies. Ideal for planting along borders, or among vegetables to deter pests. Also makes a perfect container plant for pots or window boxes. The deeply divided foliage forms a bushy mound up to 12 inches high.
Marigolds: Sparky Mix French (Tagetes patula)
$1.00 - $5.60
This easy-to-grow French marigold will bloom all season long. Compact mounds up to 12 inches tall will produce vivid bi-color orange and yellow flowers with an unusual form. This unique flower has wider, wavy petals that make these blossoms spectacular when planted en masse. A beautiful choice for containers as well as gardens.
Marigold: White (Tagetes Erecta 'Kilimanjaro')
$1.00 - $5.60
Commonly called African marigold, Aztec marigold, American marigold or big marigold, is native to Mexico and Central America. Big marigold may be the best descriptive name because plants are noted for their large flowerheads. They typically grow from 1-4’ tall and feature huge, mostly double-globular flowers (2-4” diameter) in various shades of yellow, orange, and whitish. This variety is unaffected by high summer heat and generally blooms throughout the summer.
Onions: Evergreen White Bunching (Heirlooms) (Allium fistulosum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Most likely coming from Asia, this unusual onion has a different name in nearly every country that cultivates it; spring onions, Japanese onions, Welsh onions, scallions, green onions to name only a few. The countries of eastern Asia remain on the top of the list for bunching onion production.
Onions: Ruby Red (Heirloom) (Allium cepa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Red onions originated in central Asia, and are still a favorite choice for the cuisine of east India in particular because of their bright color and pungency. Those who love red onions know that three cities on particular are known for producing them: Tropea, Italy; Wethersfield, Connecticut; and Turda, Romania.
Onion: Sweet Spanish Yellow (Heirloom) (Allium cepa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Spain, the leading onion producer of western Europe, consumes more onions than any other European country; their cuisine cannot be Spanish without onions. The most well known sweet onions of America such as the Vidalia and Grano types have their roots in the sweet onions of Spain, such as this Sweet Spanish variety.
Parsley: Italian Giant (Heirloom) (Petroselinum crispum var. neapolitanum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Parsley has a long and colorful history, being well known in many cultures. Myths and legends abound concerning this herb, making it the symbol of such widely varying things as death, victory, and life. One colonial superstition connecting parsley with death held such power that many farmers refused to grow this herb at all. Curly leaved parsley is the most well known and commonly available herb; it contains vitamins A and C as well as other valuable antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals.
Radish: Early Scarlet Globe (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Early Scarlet Globe is an early variety of radish and an favorite of many home gardeners because it matures in just 23 days! Though their exact origin is unknown, certainly have been growing in America since the late 19th century. After reviewing an assortment of the early radishes then available, the June 1913 issue of "Garden Magazine" said of Scarlet Globe, "it remains in good table condition longer than any of the early sorts mentioned above."
Radish: German Giant (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Radishes, in their early forms, come from the ancient civilizations of China, Greece, and Egypt; soon, surrounding nations also cultivated this vegetable. While the Oriental nations cultivated the large, elongated radishes, most of the round varieties such as German Giant were developed by the Dutch and the French. German Giant, as the name suggests, is an Amish heirloom that originated in Germany.
Radish: Watermelon (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
The Watermelon radish is a type of Japanese winter radish also known as a "daikon," which simply means "large root" in Japanese. Daikon radishes account for the largest percentage of any cultivated vegetable in Japan, and can be found in some form in nearly every meal of that country. Watermelon radishes, which orginated in north China near Beijing, are often served sweetened there as a dessert or fruit.
Radish: White Spear Sprouting (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
White Spear is a type of Japanese winter radish also known as a "daikon," which simply means "large root" in Japanese. Daikon radishes account for the largest percentage of any cultivated vegetable in Japan, and can be found in some form in nearly every meal of that country.
Salsify: Mammoth Sandwich Island (Heirloom) (Tragopogon porrifolius)
$1.00 - $5.60
Salsify in its modern form comes from 16th century Italy, and later made its way to the rest of Europe. European cooks traditionally served this white parsnip-like root steamed or boiled with cream. Mammoth Sandwich Island salsify, developed in the 1860s in the United States, has been the preeminent salsify variety ever since.
Tomato: Amana Orange (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
The Amana Orange tomato is an Iowa heirloom obtained from Gary Staley of Brandon, Florida, who named it for the Amana Colonies of Amana, Iowa. The Amana Colonies, a National Historic Landmark since 1965, were completely self sufficient German Pietist communities. The Colonies imported with them their traditions and handcrafts from Germany, including heirloom vegetables such as Amana Orange.
Tomato: Arkansas Traveler (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
The Arkansas Traveler is an open-pollinated heirloom variety of tomato that was bred by the University of Arkansas in 1968. The plant is indeterminate with round red fruits weighing approximately 6 ounces
Tomato: Beefsteak (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Seed expert Peter Henderson introduced this tomato in 1894, naming it "Henderson's Crimson Cushion." Later renamed Beefsteak, it became a favorite of gardeners in the Northeast. It was developed for resistance to fusarium wilt and nematodes, as well as meaty flesh for eating fresh or cooking.
Tomato: Green Zebra (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Seed expert Tom Wagner of Everett, Washington bred Green Zebra from several green tomato varieties, including Evergreen. Since he was young, Tom had been fascinated with green tomatoes, but was disappointed with their tendency to crack. He set out to create a new green tomato, and Green Zebra was the result; he first offered it for sale in his seed catalog in 1983.
Tomato: Sweetie Cherry (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
The Heirloom Sweetie Cherry Tomato has a firm texture and was produced for commercial sale in 1980. These succulent fruits can grow up to 1" in diameter, and even though they aren't very big, they still have incredibly high sugar content.
Tomato: Yellow Pear (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
History well documents the Yellow Pear tomato, indicating the presence of this variety in Europe as early as the 17th century. The earliest known reference to this heirloom in North America comes from the sale records of the Hudson Bay Company in Vancouver, Canada. Numerous heirloom seed companies in the United States still offer Yellow Pear as an unusual, delicious little tomato.