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        • Banana
        • Colocasia
        • Oxalis
        • Pilea
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      • Alyssum, Sweet
      • Asters
      • Baby Blue Eyes
      • Baby's Breath
      • Balsam
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      • Boneset
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      • Zinnia
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      • Anise
      • Balm: Lemon
      • Basil
      • Bee Balm
      • Borage
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      • Chia
      • Chives
      • Coriander
      • Cress
      • Cumin
      • Dill
      • Fennel
      • Fenugreek
      • Heal All
      • Hyssop
      • Lavender
      • Lemongrass
      • Lovage
      • Marjoram
      • Mint
      • Monkshood
      • Motherwort
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      • Gourd
      • Kale
      • Kohlrabi
      • Leeks
      • Lettuce
      • Melons
      • Mustard
      • Okra
      • Onions
      • Parsley
      • Peas
      • Peppers
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      • Radish
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Nasturtiums: Empress of India (Tropaeolum minus)

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These brilliant crimson flowers are set off by the deep blue-green leaves. This heirloom variety has a dwarf, bushy habit, and will self-sow. Edible blooms and leaves make a lovely garnish and bright addition to salads.

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  • General Information
  • Soil Preparation & Start Indoors
  • Transplant Outdoors & Start Outdoors
  • Crop Care
  • Harvesting & Storage
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Scientific Name: Tropaeolum minus

Ease of Growing: Easy

Grown as: Annual

Maturity (Bloom): May-September

Growing Habit: Bush

Hardiness: Half Hardy. Nasturtiums will sprout again after a light frost but will not tolerate a hard freeze.

Crops: Spring Transplant, Spring

Growing Season: Short, Long

Growing Conditions: Cool, Warm. Nasturtiums will grow best in a sunny part of the garden in areas with cooler summers, but should be placed in a partially shady spot in areas with hotter summer days.

Outdoor Growing Temp: 50°F - 90°F

Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 55°F. Seeds will germinate at 55 to 68˚F but will take longer to germinate above 65˚F

Start Indoors: Yes

Start Outdoors: Yes

Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Cool). Nasturtiums grow best in the sun in areas with cooler summers. 

Water: Moderate. For the best flavor, keep nasturtiums well watered. This helps to neutralize the spiciness of the greens and flowers.

Feeder: Light. Grow nasturtium in soil that is higher in Phosphorus and Potassium than Nitrogen. Growing Nasturtiums in nitrogen rich soil produces more vegetative growth and discourages blooming.

Suitability: Needs summer shade

Small Gardens?: Yes

Containers?: Yes. Dwarf varieties are well-suited for container growing. Some Trailing varieties can be placed in a hanging container.

Attracts beneficial insects?: Yes

Plant Height: 12-15"

Spacing: 6-12"

Sow Depth: 1/4-1/2"

Hardiness Zone: 3a-9b

​Produces: brilliant crimson flowers that are set off by the deep blue-green leaves.

Soil Preparation

Soil Preference:
Soil pH:
 6.1-7.8, Ideal 6.5-7.5. Many gardeners prefer growing Nasturtiums in nitrogen poor soil, as nitrogen rich soil encourages more vegetative growth with less blooms. Grow in well drained soil. In gardens with very sandy soils, add compost to help retain moisture.

Soil Preparation:
Compost (Nitrogen), 2", in top 6" of soil, 1 time:
 In gardens with very sandy soils, add compost to help retain moisture. Otherwise omit.

Start Indoors

Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Plant nasturtiums seeds 1/2" deep for best results. Some gardeners soak the seeds in warm water overnight for higher germination rates.

Soil temp for germination: 55°F to 70°F, optimal 60°F to 65°F, optimal 65°F

Total weeks to grow transplant: 5 to 7 (Spring/Summer), 5 to 7 (Fall/Winter)

Germinate:
1-2 weeks before last frost date: For Spring planting, it is a good idea to put your seed in the freezer for a day or two, then thaw for a day. If you freeze them just before planting, you will significantly improve the germination rate of the seed. Soaking your seeds before planting also helps.

Sow 2 seeds each in individual 4" pots of well-drained seed starting mix 3 weeks before the last expected frost date. Cover 1" deep. Provide a strong light source. When seedlings have several sets of leaves pinch out the weaker seedling leaving 1 per pot.

Harden Off:
1 weeks after last frost date. When weather is evenly in the 50˚ F range harden off by leaving the plants outside for longer periods of time each day.

Transplant Outdoors

2-4 weeks after last frost date: Transplant seedlings into the garden 10" apart in full sun in areas with cooler summer or in part shade in areas with hotter summers. Keep plants well-watered until the plants are well established.
​
Cool, Warm: Nasturtiums will grow best in a sunny part of the garden in areas with cooler summers, but should be placed in a partially shady spot in areas with hotter summer days.

When outdoor temp: 50°F to 90°F, optimal temp 60°F to 75°F

When min soil temp: 55°F. Seeds will germinate at 55 to 68˚F but will take longer to germinate above 65˚F

Spacing: 6"-12", 1 plants per sq ft
Plant seeds 6 to 12" apart.

Support: No

Start Outdoors

When Cool, Warm: Nasturtiums will grow best in a sunny part of the garden in areas with cooler summers, but should be placed in a partially shady spot in areas with hotter summer days.

When outdoor temp: 50°F to 90°F, optimal temp 60°F to 75°F

When min soil temp: 55°F. Seeds will germinate at 55 to 68˚F but will take longer to germinate above 65˚F

Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Plant nasturtiums seeds 1/2" deep for best results. Some gardeners soak the seeds in warm water overnight for higher germination rates.

Spacing: 6-12", 1 plants per sq ft. Plant seeds 6 to 12" apart.

Spring Crop:
2-4 weeks after last frost date:
 For Spring planting, it is a good idea to put your seed in the freezer for a day or two, then thaw for a day. If you freeze them just before planting, you will significantly improve the germination rate of the seed. Soaking your seeds before planting also helps. Sow seeds in spring once all danger of frost is over in full sun (or part shade in hot climates). Nasturtiums need no added fertilizer in most soils. Poke seeds into well-worked soil about 1" deep and 3 to 4" apart (thinning later to the recommended spacing, keeping only the healthiest and most productive plants). Press soil firmly over the seeds and keep moist.

Support: No
Nasturtium is often considered invasive (if they like their growing conditions) and only minimal care is needed. Make sure Nasturtium is well watered for the most healthy leaves and flowers.

Water Needs: Moderate. For the best flavor, keep nasturtiums well watered. This helps to neutralize the spiciness of the greens and flowers.

Fertilizer Needs: Light. Grow nasturtium in soil that is higher in Phosphorus and Potassium than Nitrogen. Growing Nasturtiums in nitrogen rich soil produces more vegetative growth and discourages blooming.

Support: No

Harvesting

Ripening: Blooms begin 35 to 52 days after germination. Leaves can be harvested at any time, although smaller leaves are less spicy.

Storage

Nasturtium's flowers and leaves are best used fresh. If you need to, store flowers in a plastic bag in the fridge for 1 - 2 days.

Storage Req: Refrigerator 
Storage Temp: 35-40°F 
Storage Length: 1-2 days
Flowers are cross-pollinated by insects, so to keep the seed pure grow only one variety. Wait for the pods to dry on the plant and remove the seeds from the inside. Be sure to remove the fleshy coating on the seeds before you put them away for storage.

Seed Viability in Years: 3 - 4 years
Germination Percentage: 70%
 ​Taste: Leaves and flowers are known for their peppery, mustard-like flavor.

Culinary Use: Both the leaves and flowers are edible raw and add a sweet and spicy kick to salads. Nasturtium leaves can also be made into a pesto.

Roots: Not edible. 
The whole plant is antibiotic, antiseptic, aperient, diuretic and expectorant. It is useful in breaking up congestion in the respiratory passages and chest during colds. The juice or tea can be used as an external or internal antiseptic. The plant has antibiotic properties towards aerobic spore forming bacteria, it is also said to have a beneficial effect on the blood by promoting the formation of blood cells.
Source
​Project Purity Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Allies: Nasturtiums are said to deter pests-including white flies-from beans, cabbage and its relatives, and cucumbers. Some companion gardeners plant nasturtiums where they will later plant their squash, hoping to keep squash bugs away. Scientific trails show conflicting evidence. In some tests, pests are reduced; in others, the nasturtiums had no effect, or worse, appeared to draw pests to the garden. It's worth conducting your own field trials. The growing plant attracts aphids away from other plants. Research indicates that aphids flying over plants with orange or yellow flowers do not stop, nor do they prey on plants growing next to or above the flowers.

Companions: Nasturtiums are available in compact or trailing forms. They flower well in poor soil and tend to produce more leaves than flowers if you plant them in the rich soil of the vegetable garden. Trailing types are pretty in a window box with marigolds and other annuals.

Enemies: None known.
An insecticide can be made from an infusion of leaves and soap flakes.

Suggested Varieties

Beans: Kentucky Wonder Pole (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)

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First appearing in the late 1800's, Kentucky Wonder Pole beans are descended from an old variety of pole bean called Texas Pole. When first introduced, Kentucky Wonder had the name of Old Homestead. In 1877, James J. H. Gregory & Sons made it available in their catalog. It immediately became widely popular for its flat, stringless pods that could be eaten fresh or dried for soup beans.
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Beans: Lazy Housewife Pole (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)

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2015 Bean of the Year. ​Brought to America by German immigrants and first listed in W. Atlee Burpee’s 1888 catalog. These beans were so-named because they were the first beans to not require destringing! Originally cultivated in Central America, from Mexico to Peru, Bolivia and Argentina. The smaller beans are thought to have been cultivated in Mexico as long as 7,000 years ago, while the larger beans were cultivated in Peru starting 8,000 years ago. High in protein, easy to grow, dry and cook, they have sustained mankind for millennia.

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Bean: Royalty Purple Pod Green (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)

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Royalty Purple Pod Green bean will add beautiful color to your garden with it's purple foliage and purple flowers. The bright purple pods are 5" long, stringless and turn green when cooked. This beautiful bush bean was introduced by Billy Hepler Seed Company in 1957. 
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Cabbage: Early Jersey Wakefield (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)

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The first Early Jersey Wakefield cabbages were raised in 1840 by a man named Francis Brill of Jersey City, New Jersey. Thirty years later, seed companies all over the region offered this seed for sale; growers appreciated its early harvest and small, tender heads.
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Cabbage: Late Flat Dutch (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)

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Late Flat Dutch cabbage can be traced back to 1840, when the earliest mention of this variety is found in the seed records of the Netherlands. German immigrants carried the seed with them to America, where it spread; by 1924, it could be found in local seed catalogs such as D. M. Ferry & Company.
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Cabbage: Red Acre (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)

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Cabbage is considered one of the oldest cultivated vegetables, since historians trace it back to 4,000 BC in China. The Romans also cultivated it and praised it for its healing qualities; philosophers Pythagoras and Cato both made the lowly cabbage the subject of a book. Jacques Cartier brought the first cabbage to America in 1536. Cabbages were quite popular in colonial America, being pickled and preserved in every possible way to provide food for the winter.

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Cabbage, Chinese: Pak Choi (Heirloom) (Brassica rapa var. chinensis)

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Chinese cabbage dates back to the 15th century in China, when a pharmacologist of the Ming Dynasty considered it nutritionally beneficial. Later it became the main ingredient in kim chi, the national dish of Korea; Japanese soldiers also discovered Chinese cabbage and took it home with them after the war. Americans became familiar with this vegetable in the late 19th century.
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Cucumber: Lemon (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)

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Historians generally agree that the first cucumbers grew in India's Himalayan Mountains over 3,000 years ago. From this region they expanded into Greece and Rome; the Romans most likely spread this vegetable to the rest of Europe. The cucumber was widely grown by native Americans through the influence of the Spanish and other explorers. Cucumbers continue to be a vital part of traditional cuisine in Russia and many parts of Asia; the greatest variety of colors and shapes of this vegetable can still be found in its Asian birthplace. Lemon cucumbers in particular can be traced back to the gardens of the 1890s.
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Cucumber: Marketmore 76' (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)

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Historians generally agree that the first cucumbers grew in India's Himalayan Mountains over 3,000 years ago. From this region they expanded into Greece and Rome; the Romans most likely spread this vegetable to the rest of Europe. The cucumber was widely grown by native Americans through the influence of the Spanish and other explorers. Cucumbers continue to be a vital part of traditional cuisine in Russia and many parts of Asia; the greatest variety of colors and shapes of this vegetable can still be found in its Asian birthplace. Marketmore cucumbers in particular were developed at Cornell University of New York, but Dr. Henry Munger.
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Cucumber: Mexican Sour Gherkin (Heirloom) (Melothria scabra)

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Melothria scabra is a vine grown for its edible fruit. Fruit are about the size of grapes and taste like cucumbers with a tinge of sourness. Vernacular names include mouse melon, Mexican sour gherkin, cucamelon, Mexican miniature watermelon, Mexican sour cucumber and pepquinos. This plant is native to Mexico and Central America, where it is called sandiita (little watermelon). It is believed to have been a domesticated crop before western contact began.
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Cucumber: National Pickling (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)

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National Pickling cucumbers in particular come from the research of George Starr of Michigan State University, who was commissioned by the National Pickle Packers Association to produce a pickle that would perform equally well for small and large pickles. The resulting cucumber excelled all expectations when it was offered to the public in 1924. ​
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Cucumber: Straight Eight (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)

$1.00 - $5.60
Historians generally agree that the first cucumbers grew in India's Himalyan Mountains over 3,000 years ago. From this region they expanded into Greece and Rome; the Romans most likely spread this vegetable to the rest of Europe. The cucumber was widely grown by native Americans through the influence of the Spanish and other explorers. Cucumbers continue to be a vital part of traditional cuisine in Russia and many parts of Asia; the greatest variety of colors and shapes of this vegetable can still be found in its Asian birthplace. Straight Eight cucumbers in particular were developed because of the demand for straight cucumbers; they exceeded all expectations, and won the AAS Gold Medal Award in 1935.
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