Pea: Alaska (Heirloom) (Pisum sativum)
-
General Information
-
Soil Preparation & Start Indoors
-
Transplant Outdoors & Start Outdoors
-
Crop Care
-
Harvesting & Storage
-
Seed Saving
-
Culinary & Medicinal
-
Companion Planting
-
Nutrition & Health Benefits
Native Range: Southern Europe
Ease of Growing: Easy
Grown as: Annual
Days to Maturity: 55 days
Growing Habit: Vine
Hardiness: Hardy. Peas are very frost tolerant.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Spring, Summer, Fall Transplant, Fall
Growing Season: Short
Growing Conditions: Cool, Warm. Peas are cool weather plants, hardy down to 20 degrees (28 degrees F when flowering). They prefer mild temperatures (55 to 75 degrees F) and don't usually set pods above 80 degrees F. In areas with hot summers they are grown as a spring or fall crop (fall planting presents its own problems, however). It is important to plant your peas early, so that they have enough time to mature before the hot weather sets in. Normally the first peas are planted 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost date.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 45°F - 75°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 45°F. Pea seeds will germinate over a wide temperature range, but do so much faster in warm soil. At 40˚F they may take over a month to germinate (if they don’t rot or get eaten in the meantime). At 70˚F they may take only a week. These large nutritious seeds are vulnerable once planted, so you don't want them sitting in the soil for too long. For this reason it's best to wait until the soil is at least 45 degrees and preferably 60 degrees.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Cool). Full sun.
Water: Moderate. Peas should get about one inch of water per week. In cool spring weather peas will usually get enough water from rainfall so you don't have to irrigate. Watering at this time may encourage mildew and can actually reduce yields. If the soil starts to get dry at any time you must start watering. This is particularly important from the time the flowers appear, as water is needed for pod formation and maturation.
Feeder: Light. Low nitrogen. Low potassium. Low phosphorous. Peas aren't very hungry plants.
Suitability: Tolerates light frost
Small Gardens?: Yes
Containers?: Yes. It is possible to grow peas in fairly deep containers (at least 8"), but they won't be very productive. To increase productivity, increase the amount of compost tea you give your plant, especially during flowering and fruiting.
Attracts beneficial insects?: No
Forage: Rabbits.
Plant Height: 36"
Spacing: 2-4"
Sow Depth: 1/2"
Hardiness Zone: 2-11
Produces: 2 1/2" small, smooth peas that are excellent for canning
Soil Preparation
Soil pH: 5.5-7.5, Ideal 6.0-6.5. The best soil for peas is a loose well-drained loam. Peas don't need a lot of nitrogen, as they can obtain their own. In fact, if nitrogen is too easily available they won't bother to fix any. Peas do need phosphorus (colloidal phosphate) and potassium (wood ashes), as well as calcium and magnesium (use dolomitic limestone).
If the soil is compacted double digging is beneficial. If it is poorly drained, use raised beds, especially for early plantings, as they don't like wet soil. In very poor soils it may pay to plant your peas in trenches, filled with a mixture of soil and compost.
Soil Preparation:
Standard Mix, 5 pounds per 100 sq. ft., in top 6" of soil, 1 time: A standard mix will provide additional potassium, phosphorus and other nutrients. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
- 4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
- 2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
- 2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
- 1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
- 1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Compost (Nitrogen), 2", in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Dig in 2˝ of compost or aged manure (You can apply fresh manure the previous fall and leave it to age over the winter).
Start Indoors
Soil temp for germination: 40°F to 85°F, optimal 60°F to 75°F, optimal 75°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 9 (Spring/Summer), 8 to 10 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
8 weeks before last frost date: Peas are traditionally direct sown because they are very hardy, germinate readily and dislike transplanting. However starting them indoors does have its advantages. It allows you to get a very early start on the season, which can help you to get an early harvest. Perhaps more importantly it is easier to protect the germinating seeds indoors, so you lose less to rodents and birds.
Peas don’t like transplanting, so they must be started in individual containers such as cell packs, or soil blocks, to minimize root disturbance.
1. Inoculate them.
2. Plant 1 or 2 seeds per cell, 1" deep.
Peas grow quickly and it is important to get them in the ground before they outgrow the soil in the cell. Don’t keep seedlings indoors any longer than necessary, or they will suffer.
Because peas don't like root disturbance, construct your support system for vining or pole varieties before planting them in the ground.
Germinate:
15 weeks before first frost date: Peas are traditionally direct sown because they are very hardy, germinate readily and dislike transplanting. However starting them indoors does have its advantages. It allows you to get a very early start on the season, which can help you to get an early harvest. Perhaps more importantly it is easier to protect the germinating seeds indoors, so you lose less to rodents and birds.
Peas don’t like transplanting, so they must be started in individual containers such as cell packs, or soil blocks, to minimize root disturbance.
1. Inoculate them.
2. Plant 1 or 2 seeds per cell, 1" deep.
Peas grow quickly and it is important to get them in the ground before they outgrow the soil in the cell. Don’t keep seedlings indoors any longer than necessary, or they will suffer.
Because peas don't like root disturbance, construct your support system for vining or pole varieties before planting them in the ground.
Harden Off: 5 weeks before last frost date: In cold spring weather you should harden off the plants before planting them out.
Transplant Outdoors
4 weeks before last frost date: It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure before you plant seedlings, so you don’t disturb the young plants later. Peas grow quickly and it is important to get them in the ground before they outgrow the soil in the cell. Don’t keep seedlings indoors any longer than necessary, or they will suffer. Plant out the transplants carefully, making sure the root ball doesn't fall apart when you take them out of the cell pack.
Cool, Warm: Peas are cool weather plants, hardy down to 20 degrees (28 degrees F when flowering). They prefer mild temperatures (55 to 75 degrees F) and don't usually set pods above 80 degrees F. In areas with hot summers they are grown as a spring or fall crop (fall planting presents its own problems, however). It is important to plant your peas early, so that they have enough time to mature before the hot weather sets in. Normally the first peas are planted 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost date.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Pea seeds will germinate over a wide temperature range, but do so much faster in warm soil. At 40˚F they may take over a month to germinate (if they don’t rot or get eaten in the meantime). At 70˚F they may take only a week. These large nutritious seeds are vulnerable once planted, so you don't want them sitting in the soil for too long. For this reason it's best to wait until the soil is at least 45 degrees and preferably 60 degrees.
Spacing: 2.0"-4.0", 8 plants per sq ft. Intensive: Pole varieties are commonly planted in rows because it is easier to support them. They are best planted in double offset rows, with 3" between the plants and 6" between the rows. You can get two of these double rows in a 5-foot wide bed (space them 24 - 30" apart).
Support: At planting. It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure before you plant your seed, so you don't disturb the young plants later. Whatever support you decide upon, it must be sufficiently tall and strong to support the plants. The tangled full size vines and their load of peas can weigh quite a lot (especially when wet or when the wind is blowing).
Pole peas climb by means of slender tendrils and can't grow up thick poles. This means they need a different kind of support from beans. A pea tendril will take about an hour to curl around a slender twig. Chicken wire (or any stiff wire) also works well, either as a fence or a cage of some kind. You can also use a trellis, which can later be used for cucumbers or melons. If you are creative, you can rig up something from poles and string or netting.
Large tomato cages (which aren't needed so early in the season) can work well with Bush Peas.
In England, peas were traditionally supported on stems from hazel shrubs, but any brushwood will do (fruit tree prunings are good). They were trimmed to a flat two dimensional plane and the butt ends were pushed firmly into the ground.
Start Outdoors
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Pea seeds will germinate over a wide temperature range, but do so much faster in warm soil. At 40˚F they may take over a month to germinate (if they don’t rot or get eaten in the meantime). At 70˚F they may take only a week. These large nutritious seeds are vulnerable once planted, so you don't want them sitting in the soil for too long. For this reason it's best to wait until the soil is at least 45 degrees and preferably 60 degrees.
Seed Depth: 1.0"-2.0". Sow the seed 1" deep in cold soil, 2" deep in warm soil (where there is more moisture).
Spacing: 2.0"-4.0", 8 plants per sq ft. Intensive: Pole varieties are commonly planted in rows because it is easier to support them. They are best planted in double offset rows, with 3" between the plants and 6" between the rows. You can get two of these double rows in a 5-foot wide bed (space them 24 - 30" apart).
Spring Crop:
2-4 weeks before last frost date: Peas can be started quite early if the soil is warm enough for good germination (at least 40˚ F though preferably 60˚ F). If it is too cold they will just sit and rot (or be eaten by rodents or birds). You can speed up the warming of the soil with plastic mulch, or cloches, before planting. It is important to plant your peas early, so that they have enough time to mature before hot weather sets in. Normally the first Peas are planted 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost date. You can speed up germination somewhat by pre-soaking the seeds overnight before sowing. The best way to do this is to put them between moist paper towels. Soaking them in a bowl of water can cause them to absorb water too rapidly and may actually injure them. You can also pre-germinate the seeds, to improve emergence in cold soils. Sprout the seeds on paper towels in a warm place and plant them out as soon as the roots appear (don’t wait too long).
Inoculation: The nitrogen fixing bacteria that live in Pea roots can survive in the soil for 3 to 5 years. If you haven’t grown Peas within that time, you should inoculate your seeds with a commercial inoculant. This can make a big difference to the amount of nitrogen that is fixed. This in turn may increase the yield of pods by as much as 75%.
Planting:
1. Inoculate peas.
2. Lay out the seeds 6" apart on the surface at the required spacing.
3. When you are happy with the arrangement, push the seeds down to the proper depth with your finger.
4. In early spring, when the soil is cold, plant your peas 1˝ deep.
Summer Crop:
4-18 weeks after last frost date: In cool climates you can grow peas right through the summer.
1. Inoculate peas
2. Lay out the seeds 6" apart on the surface at the required spacing.
3. When you are happy with the spacing, just push the seeds down to the proper depth with your finger.
4. In warm soil you can plant them 2˝ deep (where it is cooler and more evenly moist).
It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure before (or immediately after) you plant the seed, so you don’t disturb the young plants later.
Inoculation: The nitrogen fixing bacteria that live in Pea roots can survive in the soil for 3 to 5 years. If you haven’t grown Peas within that time, you should inoculate your seeds with a commercial inoculant. This can make a big difference to the amount of nitrogen that is fixed. This in turn may increase the yield of pods by as much as 75%.
Fall Crop:
8-12 weeks before first frost date: Plant a fall crop 8 to 12 weeks before the first fall frost, so they mature in cool weather. The seed may also be sown in autumn for an early spring crop, though it should be protected with mulch over the winter.
1. Inoculate peas
2. Lay out the seeds 6" apart on the surface at the required spacing.
3. When you are happy with the spacing, just push the seeds down to the proper depth with your finger.
4. In warm soil you can plant them 2˝ deep (where it is cooler and more evenly moist).
It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure immediately after planting your seed (or even before), so you don’t disturb the young plants later.
Inoculation: The nitrogen fixing bacteria that live in Pea roots can survive in the soil for 3 to 5 years. If you haven’t grown Peas within that time, you should inoculate your seeds with a commercial inoculant. This can make a big difference to the amount of nitrogen that is fixed. This in turn may increase the yield of pods by as much as 75%.
Support:
At planting: It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure before you plant your seed, so you don't disturb the young plants later. Whatever support you decide upon, it must be sufficiently tall and strong to support the plants. The tangled full size vines and their load of peas can weigh quite a lot (especially when wet or when the wind is blowing).
Pole peas climb by means of slender tendrils and can't grow up thick poles. This means they need a different kind of support from beans. A pea tendril will take about an hour to curl around a slender twig. Chicken wire (or any stiff wire) also works well, either as a fence or a cage of some kind. You can also use a trellis, which can later be used for cucumbers or melons. If you are creative, you can rig up something from poles and string or netting.
Large tomato cages (which aren't needed so early in the season) can work well with Bush Peas.
In England, peas were traditionally supported on stems from hazel shrubs, but any brushwood will do (fruit tree prunings are good). They were trimmed to a flat two dimensional plane and the butt ends were pushed firmly into the ground.
As a cool weather spring crop they can be out of the ground by June, leaving time for a warm weather crop to succeed them.
Water Needs: Moderate. Peas should get about one inch of water per week. In cool spring weather peas will usually get enough water from rainfall so you don't have to irrigate. Watering at this time may encourage mildew and can actually reduce yields. If the soil starts to get dry at any time you must start watering. This is particularly important from the time the flowers appear, as water is needed for pod formation and maturation.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Low nitrogen. Low potassium. Low phosphorous. Peas aren't very hungry plants.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 inch(es), regularly, 2 times a week. Peas should get about one inch of water per week. In cool spring weather they will usually get enough water from rainfall so you don’t have to irrigate. Watering at this time may encourage mildew and can actually reduce yields. If the soil starts to get dry at any time you must start watering. This is particularly important from the time the flowers appear, as water is needed for pod formation and maturation.
Weeding, after sowing: after sowing, every 3 weeks. Weed the young plants carefully (preferably by hand), to avoid damaging their shallow roots. Older plants are usually vigorous enough (and tall enough) to overwhelm most weeds.
Side Dressing, after planting: Mulch, 2" after planting, 1 time. Optional: Mulch is helpful to keep down weeds, cools the soil and conserves soil moisture.
Side Dressing, before flowering: Compost tea, 5 gallon(s) per 100 sq. ft., before flowering, 1 time
The young plants may benefit from a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp (used as directed).
Support:
At planting:
It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure before you plant your seed, so you don't disturb the young plants later. Whatever support you decide upon, it must be sufficiently tall and strong to support the plants. The tangled full size vines and their load of peas can weigh quite a lot (especially when wet or when the wind is blowing).
Pole peas climb by means of slender tendrils and can't grow up thick poles. This means they need a different kind of support from beans. A pea tendril will take about an hour to curl around a slender twig. Chicken wire (or any stiff wire) also works well, either as a fence or a cage of some kind. You can also use a trellis, which can later be used for cucumbers or melons. If you are creative, you can rig up something from poles and string or netting.
Large tomato cages (which aren't needed so early in the season) can work well with Bush Peas.
In England, peas were traditionally supported on stems from hazel shrubs, but any brushwood will do (fruit tree prunings are good). They were trimmed to a flat two dimensional plane and the butt ends were pushed firmly into the ground.
Harvesting
Storage
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
The sugar in peas begins to turn to starch soon after harvesting, so they don’t store well. For this reason they should be used promptly for best flavor. If you have to store them, put them in the fridge in a plastic bag for up to 2 weeks.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-14 days
Seed Viability in Years: 3 - 4 years
Germination Percentage: 80%
Culinary
Delicious soup peas.
Culinary Use:
Open the pod to remove the peas. Fresh young tender peas are so sweet it's easy to eat them while shucking. They can be eaten raw in salads or slightly steamed with shallots and baby spring carrots. They can also be added to stews, soups and used in pasta and risotto. Unlike dried beans, there's no need to soak Shelling Beans before use.
Immature seedpods: raw or cooked. The young seedpods have a sweet flavor, but there is only a thin layer of flesh with a fibrous layer beneath it.
Immature seeds: raw or cooked. Sweet and delicious, they can be added to salads, or lightly cooked. A The mature seeds are rich in protein and can be cooked as a vegetable or added to soups etc. They can also be sprouted and added to salads, soups etc. The mature seed can also be dried and ground into a powder, then used to enrich the protein content of flour when making bread etc. The roasted seed is a coffee substitute.
Leaves and young shoots: cooked and used as a potherb. The young shoots taste like fresh peas, they are exceptionally tender and can be used in salads.
Medicinal
Companion Planting
Companions: Grow tomatoes, eggplants, lettuce, or spinach in the shade of trellised pea plants. The pea vines also protect these tender crops from wind damage. Alternate rows of peas with shade tolerant Chinese cabbage.
Enemies: Onions and garlic are reputed to have a negative effect on the growth of peas.
Problems
Slugs
To attract Earwigs to your garden you will need to grow: Celery (Apium graveolens), Beets (Beta vulgaris, Cabbages, Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea/Brassica rapa), Cucumber (Cucumis sativus), Dahlia, Carrot (Daucus carota), Carnation (Dianthus), Carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus), Strawberry (Fragaria ananassa), Hop (Humulus lupulus), Lettuce (Lactuca sativa), Lupin (Lupinus angustifolius), Apple (Malus domestica), Apricot (Prunus armeniaca), Sweet Cherry (Prunus avium), Plum (Prunus domestica), Peach (Prunus persica), European Pear (Pyrus communis), Rhubarb (Rheum hybridum), Roses (Rosa), Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum), Potato (Solanum tuberosum), Grapevine (Vitis vinifera), Corn (Zea mays), Zinnia.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado Potato Beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: Evening Primrose, Amaranthus, and Clover.
Nutrition
The Health Benefits of Peas
Stomach cancer prevention: Peas contain high amounts of a health-protective polyphenol called coumestrol. A study in Mexico City determined you only need 2 milligrams per day of this phytonutrient to prevent stomach cancer. A cup of peas has at least 10.
Anti-aging, strong immune system, and high energy: This comes from the high levels of anti-oxidants including:
- flavinoids: = catechin and epicatechin
- carotenoid= alpha-carotene and beta-carotene
- phenolic acids = ferulic and caffeic acid
- polyphenols = coumestrol
Prevention of wrinkles, alzheimer’s, arthritis, bronchitis, osteoporosis and candida: These come from peas strong anti-inflammatory properties. Excess inflammation has also been linked to, heart disease, cancer, and aging in general. These properties include:
- Pisumsaponins I and II and pisomosides A and B are anti-inflammatory phytonutrients found almost exclusively in peas.
- vitamin C and vitamin E, and a good amount of the antioxidant mineral zinc
- omega-3 fat in the form of alpha-linolenic acid (ALA).
Blood sugar regulation: High fibre slows and protein slows down how fast sugars are digested. The anti-oxidants and anti-inflammatory prevent or reverse insulin resistance (type 2 diabetes) All carbohydrates are natural sugars and starches with no white sugars or chemicals to worry about.
Heart disease prevention: The many antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compounds support healthy blood vessels. The formation of plaque along our blood vessel walls starts with chronic, excessive oxidative stress and inflammation. The generous amounts of vitamin B1 and folate, B2, B3, and B6 reduce homocysteine levels which are risk factor for heart disease.
Healthy for the environment: Peas work with bacteria in the soil to ‘fix’ nitrogen from the air and deposit it in the soil. This reduces the need for artificial fertilizers since one of their main ingredients is nitrogen. After peas have been harvested the remaining plant easily breaks down to create more organic fertilizer for the soil. Peas are also able to grow on minimal moisture so they are a perfect crop in many areas not needing irrigation or using up valuable water supplies.
Prevent constipation: The high fiber content in peas improves bowel health and peristalsis.
Healthy bones: Just one cup of peas contain 44% of your Vitamin K which helps to anchor calcium inside the bones. It’s B vitamins also help to prevent osteoporosis.
Reduces bad cholesterol: The niacin in peas helps reduce, the production of triglycerides and VLDL (very low-density lipoprotein, which results in in less bad cholesterol, increased HDL (“good”) cholesterol, and lowered triglycerides.
Suggested Varieties
Amaranth: Love Lies Bleeding (Heirloom) (Amaranthus caudatus)
Amaranth: Perfecta (Heirloom) (Amaranthus Tricolor 'Perfecta')
Amaranth: Red Garnet (Heirloom) (Amaranthus tricolor)
Beans: Black Turtle (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
Beans: Blue Lake Bush #274 (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
Sold out
Beans: Contender Bush (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
Beans: Gold Rush Yellow Wax (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
Beans: Kentucky Wonder Pole (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
Sold out
Beans: Lazy Housewife Pole (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
Beans: Pinto (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
Beans: Red Yard Long (Heirloom) (Vigna unguiculata sesquipedalis)
Sold out
Bean: Royalty Purple Pod Green (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
Beets: Cylindra (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris)
Beets: Detroit Dark Red (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris)
Beets: Golden Detroit (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris)
Beets seem to have originated in the Mediterranean region, where people grew them for thousands of years. Later, beets grew in Germany and Holland and were used as cattle fodder; they were later imported to England for this purpose, but the poor began to raise them for an affordable food source. American colonists later brought them to the New World, where they became a commonly enjoyed food both for their roots and their greens. According to historians, George Washington experimented with beets, cross-pollinating them to create new varieties.
Carrots: Chantenay Red Cored (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Cosmic Purple (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Danvers (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Rainbow Blend (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Scarlet Nantes (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Tendersweet (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Cauliflower: Snowball Y Improved (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. botrytis)
Celery: Tendercrisp (Heirloom) (Apium graveolens var. dulce)
Celery: Utah Tall 52/70 (Heirloom) (Apium graveolens var. dulce)
Clover: Crimson (Trifolium incarnatum)
Clover: Purple Prairie (Dalea purpurea)
Corn: Country Gentleman-Open Pollinated (Heirloom) (Zea mays)
Corn: Golden Bantam-Open Pollinated (Heirloom) (Zea mays)
Corn, Popcorn: Shaman's Blue (Hybrid) Open Pollinated (Zea mays)
Blue corn originated in the Andes Mountains of Peru, where the native peoples usually ground it into flour for cooking. Indians of Mexico and the southwestern United States also widely used this corn, since its dryness made it an excellent flour corn and gave it good resistance to disease. This exciting blue popcorn receives high marks for both visual and taste appeal. The unique blue/purple kernel pops into mounds of snow white popcorn that will satisfy any popcorn lover with its slightly sweet flavor.
Corn, Popcorn: South American Yellow (Zea mays)
According to evidence found by archaeologists on the northern coast of Peru, popcorn was a staple in the ancient civilizations of South America. Popcorn also grew above the border, and it once occupied a space in nearly every American garden. At the beginning of the twentieth century, 52 varieties of popcorn were offered by the seed catalogs of the time. A wise choice for popcorn lovers! This prolific variety bears 2-3, 6-9 inch ears per plant. When popped, the large yellow kernels produce a buttery tasting popcorn.
Corn, Popcorn: Strawberry Red (Zea Mays)
Although it's exact origin is unknown, it is believed that Strawberry Red Popcorn was domesticated by the Olmec and the Mayans. Not only is this amazing variety edible, but it is just as decorative. Each plant grows to 5-6' and bares two or so 2-3" strawberry shaped ears that are covered with brilliant burgundy kernels! Your mind will be blown as you watch the red kernels pop into white popcorn with in the blink of eye!
Cucumber: Lemon (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: Marketmore 76' (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: Mexican Sour Gherkin (Heirloom) (Melothria scabra)
Sold out
Cucumber: National Pickling (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: Straight Eight (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: Sumter (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: White Wonder (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
This high yielding ivory white cucumber variety was introduced into the U.S. and first offered by Burpee Seed Company in 1893. White Wonder Cucumbers are delicious raw, in salads, or pickled.
Cucumber: Wisconsin SMR 58 (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Eggplant: Black Beauty (Heirloom) (Solanum melongena var. esculentum)
Eggplants date back to medieval times where they were called mad apples. A staple of regions of Asia, known as the "king of vegetables". Eggplant comes in all shapes colors and sizes. Black Beauty is one of the earliest and dates back to the early 1900's.
Eggplant: Golden Egg (Solanum Melongena)
Ornamental Eggplant is a very unique tropical annual that produce purple flowers and egg-shaped, edible fruit that begin white and turn golden upon maturity. Excellent choices for pots and containers, ornamental hedge, or house plant.
Eggplant: Long Purple (Heirloom) (Solanum melongena)
This Italian heirloom eggplant, Long Purple, produces dark purple cucumber-shaped fruit with firm, mild flesh. Good yields, especially in northern climates! Plants will typically produce 4 or more 8-10" fruits with harvest beginning in 70 to 80 days. Average water needs. Some parts of plant are poisonous if ingested.
Lettuce: Bibb (Heirloom) (Lactuca sativa)
Lettuce: Freckles Romaine (Heirloom) (Lactuca sativa)
Lettuce: Oakleaf (Heirloom) (Lactuca sativa)
Lettuce: Red Romaine (Heirloom) (Lactuca sativa)
Radish: Early Scarlet Globe (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
Radish: French Breakfast (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
Radish: German Giant (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
Radish: Watermelon (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
The Watermelon radish is a type of Japanese winter radish also known as a "daikon," which simply means "large root" in Japanese. Daikon radishes account for the largest percentage of any cultivated vegetable in Japan, and can be found in some form in nearly every meal of that country. Watermelon radishes, which orginated in north China near Beijing, are often served sweetened there as a dessert or fruit.
Radish: White Spear Sprouting (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
Spinach: Bloomsdale Longstanding (Heirloom) (Spinacia oleracea)
Spinach: Purple Passion (Heirloom) (Atriplex hortensis)
Sold out
Tomato: Amana Orange (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
Tomato: Arkansas Traveler (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
The Arkansas Traveler is an open-pollinated heirloom variety of tomato that was bred by the University of Arkansas in 1968. The plant is indeterminate with round red fruits weighing approximately 6-8 ounces
Tomato: Beefsteak (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
Tomato: Black Krim (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
Tomato: Green Zebra (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
Tomato: Hillbilly (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
Tomato: Italian Roma (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
Tomato: Purple Cherokee (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
Tomato: Sweetie Cherry (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
Tomato: Yellow Pear (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
Turnips: Purple Top White Globe (Heirloom) (Brassica rapa)
Zinnia: Canary Bird (Zinnia elegans)
Zinnia: Cherry Queen (Zinnia elegans)
Zinnia: Exquisite (Zinnia elegans)
A unique and colorful Zinnia that offers a range of shades. Exquisite Zinnia is an easy to grow annual that blooms bright red and fades to soft rose pink as the blooms age. Definitely a favorite of gardeners, florists, or anyone who loves cut flowers.