Squash, Summer: Dark Green Zucchini (Heirloom) (Cucurbita pepo)
This is the traditional and reliable zucchini that just keeps on producing! Fruits are dark green, and nice and straight! Matures in about 60 days. Average water needs. Attractive to bees, butterflies, and/or birds.
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General Information
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Soil Preparation & Start Indoors
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Transplant Outdoors & Start Outdoors
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Crop Care
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Harvesting & Storage
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Seed Saving
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Culinary & Medicinal
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Companion Planting
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Nutrition & Health Benefits
Ease of Growing: Easy
Grown as: Annual
Days to Maturity Blooms: July to August
Hardiness: Tender. These tender annuals originated in the tropics and can't stand cold weather or frost.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Summer
Growing Season: Short, long
Growing Conditions: Warm, Hot. These tender annuals originated in the tropics and love hot weather. They can't stand cold soil so don't plant them until it has warmed up (ideally to at least 70 degrees F). Use black plastic to warm the soil if necessary.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 60°F - 90°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 70°F. Don't plant out until the soil temperature is close to 70 degrees.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Warm, Hot). Full sun.
Water: High. The plants need an evenly moist soil for maximum productivity. The best way to water Squash is with soaker hose, as wet foliage can easily lead to fungus diseases.
Feeder: High. The plants need an evenly moist soil for maximum productivity.
Suitability: High heat, Needs lots of space
Small Gardens?: Yes
Containers?: Yes. Plant in a large pot with 12" depth. Be sure to provide the plants with ample fertilizer, like compost tea regularly. These hungry plants cannot search for their nutrient needs and will have to rely on you to provide them in order to produce decent size squash.
Attracts beneficial insects?: Yes. Squash flowers attract many different types of pollinating insects.
Forage: Rabbits.
Maintenance: Medium
Plant Height: 12-14"
Spacing: 12"-18"
Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 2.0".
Produces: 4-7" small, uniform, high-quality fruit that has dark green with light fleck skin.
USDA Zones: 2-11
Soil Preparation
Soil pH: 6.0-7.0, Ideal 6.3-6.5. Summer Squash is a hungry and fast growing crop that produces a lot of biomass. To do this it needs a well drained, moisture retentive, fertile soil, with lots of organic matter. It doesn't do well on acid or saline soils.
Soil Preparation:
Standard Mix, 1 cup per plant, in top 6" of soil, 1 time: A cup of standard mix per plant will supply any additional nutrients required. Incorporate it into the soil with the compost. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
- 4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
- 2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
- 2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
- 1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
- 1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Compost (Nitrogen), 2" in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Squash have a very vigorous root system, which may go down 6 feet in its search for nutrients. Add 2˝ of compost or aged manure to the top 6˝ of soil, to supply nutrients and to increase the ability of the soil to hold moisture.
Start Indoors
Soil temp for germination: 65°F to 100°F, optimal 80°F to 95°F, optimal 86°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 14 to 15 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 1 week before last frost date. Early Squash is usually started indoors, because spring growing weather is often less than ideal and by starting indoors you have stocky little plants ready to put outside. This is better than having to wait for seed to germinate in cold soil. Cucurbits in general dislike transplanting, so start them in individual containers. I like to use 4˝ pots as they allow you some time before the seedlings must be planted out. If containers are smaller than this you may have to pot them up before planting out, which is an additional chore. Plant two seeds in each pot. After they have both emerged, you should remove the inferior one (pinch it off to avoid disturbing the remaining one).
Harden Off: 1-2 weeks after last frost date. Allow the starts to adjust to outdoor temperatures. Place outside for one week before transplanting into their bed.
Transplant Outdoors
1. Plant them as deep as their first true leaves. If cold weather threatens to return, you can cover them with cloches.
Warm, Hot: These tender annuals originated in the tropics and love hot weather. They can't stand cold soil so don't plant them until it has warmed up (ideally to at least 70 degrees F). Use black plastic to warm the soil if necessary.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 70°F. Don't plant out until the soil temperature is close to 70 degrees.
Spacing: 12"-18", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft.
Intensive beds: Squash grow into big plants that need a lot of space. They are spaced 24 to 36" apart, depending upon how large the particular variety gets. You could plant your Squash down the center of the bed and fill in the rest of the space with a fast growing crop. Because squash spread out, it's a good idea to plant at the edge of the garden, where they have minimal impact on their neighbors.
Support: Optional. Bush varieties don't need any support; the vine varieties take up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages.
Start Outdoors
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 105°F, optimal 70°F to 85°F, optimal 86°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 8 to 9 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 0-2 weeks after last frost date. Early Cucumbers are usually started indoors, because the soil outside may not be warm enough for good germination (even though the air may be warm enough for their growth). You can hasten soil warming with a black plastic mulch. Cucumbers dislike transplanting, so are usually started in individual 3˝ or 4˝ containers, 2 seeds to a pot (later thinned to the best one). Don’t use smaller containers, as the seedlings grow so quickly you will soon have to re-pot them. Be careful not to overwater germinating seeds or they may rot. It's best to soak the ground or the potting soil heavily when first planting, then avoid watering again if possible until seedlings emerge. (For seeds in potting soil, keep them warm but out of direct sunlight so that they don't dry out so fast.) Cucumber seeds emerge in 5+ days; very lightly water ground or potting soil around day 3 or 4 to keep soil from crusting so that seeds can emerge more easily.
Water Needs: High. The plants need an evenly moist soil for maximum productivity. The best way to water Squash is with soaker hose, as wet foliage can easily lead to fungus diseases.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Summer Squash is a hungry and fast growing crop and needs a steady supply of nutrients.
Watering, regularly: Water, 3 quarts, regularly, 2 times a week Keep the plants well watered.
Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, regularly: Compost tea, 1 quart, regularly, every 3 weeks. Give each plant 1 quart of liquid feed of compost tea every 2-4 weeks.
Side Dressing, when 3" tall: Mulch, 2" when 3" tall, 1 time. OPTIONAL: Mulch is helpful with these widely spaced plants, to keep down weeds and conserve moisture.
Watering, during fruit production: Water, 1 gallon per plant, during fruit production, 2 times a week. The soil should be kept evenly moist at all times, but particularly when the plants are bearing fruit. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Support: Optional. Bush varieties don't need any support; the vine varieties take up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages.
Harvestinig
Harvest the fruit when they are 4 to 7" long, which should be about 4 to 6 days after pollination. Generally it's better to harvest them when still fairly small, though often they are still good when twice this size. If you pick them while they are small it's easier to consume all that are produced, so less are wasted.
When and How: Whole Fruit, 1-56 days after maturity
When: Harvest the fruit when they are 4" to 7" long, which should be about 4 to 6 days after pollination Generally it's better to harvest them when still fairy small (4" is good), though often they are still good when twice this size.
How: Cut the fruits from the plant with a sharp knife to minimize damage to the vine. Leave a small section of stem on the fruit to prevent moisture loss and so improve storage life.
The male flowers are often used for food (leave enough to pollinate the females of course).
Storage
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: 0-14 days
Hand pollination isn't as complicated as you might imagine. Go out in the evening and find some male and female flowers that are about to open the following day and tape them shut with 3/4" masking tape. The next day you open a male flower (from a different plant) and remove its petals. You then carefully open the female flower without damaging the petals, brush the pollen-laden anthers from the male on to the pistil lobes of the female and then tape it closed again (to prevent further pollination). This procedure should work about 50 to 75% of the time. It works even better if 2 male flowers are used to pollinate each female. You will soon know if the above has worked because a successfully pollinated flower will swell rapidly (mark it carefully so it isn't accidentally harvested). If pollination wasn't successful the flower will soon fall off.
You must leave the fertilized squash to mature fully on the vine. This will slow down further fruit production, or may even stop it altogether. When the fruit is fully ripe it will get woody like a Winter Squash. It takes time for the fruit to ripen fully, so allow plenty of time before frost - at least 60 days). You then clean the ripe seed, dry it thoroughly and store in a cool dry place.
Seed Viability in Years: 3 - 6 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary
Delicious and delicately flavored.
Culinary Use:
Summer squash can be sauteed, steamed, roasted, grilled, used in stews, stuffed and made into soup. The fruits can be eaten when small for sweeter flavor.
The blossoms are also a treat when stuffed with cheese and fried!
Fruit: cooked. Some cultivars have a delicious flavor when baked, rather like a sweet potato. The flesh can be dried and ground into a powder then used in making breads etc. Some varieties can be stored for up to 9 months.
Seed: raw or cooked. Rich in oil with a pleasant nutty flavor but very fiddly to use because the seed is small and covered with a fibrous coat. An edible oil is obtained from the seed.
Leaves and young stems: cooked and used as a potherb or added to soups, stews etc.
Flowers: cooked.
Known Hazards: The sprouting seed produces a toxic substance in its embryo.
Medicinal
Companion Planting
Allies: Borage deters worms, improves growth and flavor. Marigolds deters beetle. Nasturtium deters squash bugs and beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection. Dill may repel the squash bug that will kill your squash vines. Generously scatter the dill leaves on your squash plants.
Enemies: Keep squash away from potatoes.
Problems
Cucumber Beetles
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Squash Bugs
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: carrots, dill, coriander, and buckwheat.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Squash Vine borers
Aphids
Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus),
Masterwort (Astrantia major), \Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata),
Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata),
Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white
sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
Cutworms
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Spiders: Prey on a wide range including bed bugs, aphids, roaches, grasshoppers, cabbage looper, and fruit flies.
To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving spiders, mulch for predatory spiders.
Minute Pirate Bugs: Preys on spider mites, cabbage looper, insect eggs, caterpillars, aphids, thrips
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Damsel Bugs: Prey on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Potato Beetles, and Cabbage Worms.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
Leaf Miners
Whiteflies
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
Big-eyed Bugs: Preys on Aphids, small Caterpillars and Caterpillar eggs, Flea beetles, Fleahoppers, Lygus bugs, Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies.
To attract Big-Eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Spidermites
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Preys on Aphids, small Caterpillars and Caterpillar eggs, Flea beetles, Fleahoppers, Lygus bugs, Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies.
To attract Big-Eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Nutrition
The health benefits of squash
Manages Diabetes: Proper, regulated metabolism of sugar in the body is the best way to manage the symptoms of diabetes, a disease which afflicts millions of people all around the world. Squash is a great source of B-complex vitamins, all of which are essential in metabolic activity. Furthermore, certain types of squash contain good amounts of dietary fiber, including the polysaccharide known as pectin. Pectin is an essential element in blood sugar regulation throughout the body, making sure that the insulin and glucose activities within the body remain constant and smooth. This ensures proper function of different organ systems and a reduction in the plunges and peaks that can make the life of diabetics’ difficult.
Anti-inflammatory Capacity: Although talking about inflammation usually includes a discussion of arthritis or gout, it can occur throughout the body and is often a symptom of other conditions, like a fever that is a signal of an infection attacking the body. The anti-inflammatory activity of squash is due to the presence of omega-3 fatty acids, carotenoids like lutein, zeaxanthin, and beta-carotene, as well as somewhat unusual anti-inflammatory polysaccharides called homogalacturonan. Although anti-inflammatory effects can certainly extend to arthritis and gout, studies on squash have specifically linked its impact to reducing gastric and duodenal ulcer reduction, as well as to general anti-inflammation of the cardiovascular system. Inflammation in the body is closely linked to type-2 diabetes, which is yet another way in which it can help those suffering from that condition.
Prevents Infections: The natural immune-boosting ability of squash is great for general illnesses, but specific toxins and foreign bodies can also cause serious health issues. The seeds of squash can also be eaten or chewed to get a number of health benefits. These seeds have been directly connected to antiparasitic, antimicrobial, and antifungal activity within the body, protecting us from a wide variety of diseases, including tapeworms and other intestinal parasites.
Improves Lung Health: The vitamin in highest quantities within squash is vitamin A, and studies have linked vitamin A to a reduction in emphysema, particularly for those who are consistently exposed to carcinogens like cigarette smokes. There is also an important carotenoid called beta-cryptoxanthin that has been linked to a reduction in the occurrence of lung cancer. Lung cancer is one of the most common forms of this terrible disease, so an increase in foods that contain vitamin A can be a very important protective element.
Treats Neural Tube Defects: Squash has significant levels of folate, which has long been known as an essential vitamin for pregnant women. Folic acid, or folate, is integral in developing the neural aspects of infant health. Neural tube defects have been directly linked to a deficiency in folic acid, so adding squash to your diet is always a good idea.
Protects Heart Health: The magnesium and potassium present in squash combine to form a very effective defense line against cardiovascular issues. Potassium is a vasodilator, which means that it relaxes the tension of blood vessels and arteries, thereby increasing blood flow and reducing the stress on the heart. This also increases oxygenation to various organs of the body and improves their functioning. The fiber, including pectin, found in squash is very good at scraping excess cholesterol from the walls of arteries, thereby reducing the chances of atherosclerosis, heart attack, and stroke. Finally, the high levels of folate in squash are able to neutralize harmful levels of homocysteine that builds up in the body. Homocysteine has been linked to increased chances of developing cardiovascular diseases.
Treats Asthma: The antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of squash have been linked to a reduction in asthmatic conditions, primarily because the irritation that causes asthma can be eliminated by eating a diet that includes squash.
Regulates Blood Circulation: Many varieties of squash have high levels of iron and copper, both of which are essential components of red blood cells. What this means is that with enough squash in your diet, you can reduce your chances of developing anemia (iron deficiency) and you can generally increase circulation within your bloodstream, which can increase oxygenation, brain function, and overall energy levels.
Improves Vision: It may be hard to believe, but a single serving of squash can contain more than 400% of your daily requirement for vitamin A, due to the massive amount of beta-carotene found in it. Beta-carotene can actually be split by an enzyme to form vitamin A, but the body will only convert as much as is necessary. In other words, eating squash will give your body all the vitamin A it needs, with plenty of beta-carotene to spare. Beta-carotene is an antioxidant compound essential for good eye health. High levels of beta-carotene have been connected with reduced chances of macular degeneration, cataracts, glaucoma, and other vision issues.
Strengthens Bones: The high levels of essential vitamins found in squash make it a very important part of developing bone matter and bone mineral density. Squash is a valuable source of zinc, calcium, manganese, and other very important trace elements. This can help reduce your chances of developing osteoporosis as you age and ensure the strength and durability of your bones.
Word of Caution: There are so many wonderful benefits of squash, but it is important to recognize some of the potential problems. Squash fruits can lower blood pressure to a dangerous level, so people with hypotension should avoid consuming it. Other than that, enjoy the health benefits of squash in all your seasonal meals!
Suggested Varieties
Amaranth: Love Lies Bleeding (Heirloom) (Amaranthus caudatus)
Amaranth: Perfecta (Heirloom) (Amaranthus Tricolor 'Perfecta')
Amaranth: Red Garnet (Heirloom) (Amaranthus tricolor)
Angelica (Angelica atropurpurea)
Angelica is perennial native that stands 3-8' tall and is commonly found in woodlands and swampy areas near streams and rivers. It produces large, pale to dark purple hollow stems, with ¾-4½" long, medium to dark green sub leaflets. Being both edible and medicinal, this plant surely has a lot of offer any garden.
Balm: Lemon (Melissa officinalis)
Beans: Black Turtle (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
Beans: Blue Lake Bush #274 (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
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Beans: Contender Bush (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
Beans: Gold Rush Yellow Wax (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
Beans: Kentucky Wonder Pole (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
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Beans: Lazy Housewife Pole (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
Beans: Pinto (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
Beans: Red Yard Long (Heirloom) (Vigna unguiculata sesquipedalis)
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Bean: Royalty Purple Pod Green (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
Bergamot: Wild (Monarda fistulosa)
Borage: Blue (Borago officinalis)
Borage: White (Borago Officinalis Bianca)
Cabbage: Early Jersey Wakefield (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
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Caraway (Carum carvi)
Carrots: Chantenay Red Cored (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Cosmic Purple (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Danvers (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Rainbow Blend (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Scarlet Nantes (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Tendersweet (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Chives: Garlic (Allium tuberosum)
Chives: Onion (Allium schoenoprasum var. album)
Clover: Crimson (Trifolium incarnatum)
Clover: Purple Prairie (Dalea purpurea)
Clover: Strawberry Palestine (Trifolium fragiferum)
Strawberry Palestine Clover is an introduced species that is native to the Mediterranean, as well as parts of central Europe and Asia. Growing to 9-12”, this hardy groundcover tolerates flooding and is great for grazing! It’s botanical name “fragiferum” translates to “strawberry bearing” since both the mature flower look and spread very much like strawberries!
Coriander: Leisure (Coriandrum sativum)
Corn: Country Gentleman-Open Pollinated (Heirloom) (Zea mays)
Corn: Golden Bantam-Open Pollinated (Heirloom) (Zea mays)
Corn, Popcorn: Shaman's Blue (Hybrid) Open Pollinated (Zea mays)
Blue corn originated in the Andes Mountains of Peru, where the native peoples usually ground it into flour for cooking. Indians of Mexico and the southwestern United States also widely used this corn, since its dryness made it an excellent flour corn and gave it good resistance to disease. This exciting blue popcorn receives high marks for both visual and taste appeal. The unique blue/purple kernel pops into mounds of snow white popcorn that will satisfy any popcorn lover with its slightly sweet flavor.
Corn, Popcorn: South American Yellow (Zea mays)
According to evidence found by archaeologists on the northern coast of Peru, popcorn was a staple in the ancient civilizations of South America. Popcorn also grew above the border, and it once occupied a space in nearly every American garden. At the beginning of the twentieth century, 52 varieties of popcorn were offered by the seed catalogs of the time. A wise choice for popcorn lovers! This prolific variety bears 2-3, 6-9 inch ears per plant. When popped, the large yellow kernels produce a buttery tasting popcorn.
Corn, Popcorn: Strawberry Red (Zea Mays)
Although it's exact origin is unknown, it is believed that Strawberry Red Popcorn was domesticated by the Olmec and the Mayans. Not only is this amazing variety edible, but it is just as decorative. Each plant grows to 5-6' and bares two or so 2-3" strawberry shaped ears that are covered with brilliant burgundy kernels! Your mind will be blown as you watch the red kernels pop into white popcorn with in the blink of eye!
Cosmos: Bright Lights (Cosmos sulphureus)
Cosmos: Candy Stripe (Cosmos bipinnatus)
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Cosmos: Radiance (Cosmos bipinnatus)
Cucumber: Lemon (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: Marketmore 76' (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: Mexican Sour Gherkin (Heirloom) (Melothria scabra)
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Cucumber: National Pickling (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: Straight Eight (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: Sumter (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: White Wonder (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
This high yielding ivory white cucumber variety was introduced into the U.S. and first offered by Burpee Seed Company in 1893. White Wonder Cucumbers are delicious raw, in salads, or pickled.
Cucumber: Wisconsin SMR 58 (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Dill: Dukat (Anethum graveolens)
English Marigold (Calendula officinalis)
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Fennel: Florence (Foeniculum vulgare var. azoricum)
Marigolds: Naughty Marietta (Tagetes patula)
Marigolds: Sparky Mix French (Tagetes patula)
Marigold: White (Tagetes Erecta 'Kilimanjaro')
Commonly called African marigold, Aztec marigold, American marigold or big marigold, is native to Mexico and Central America. Big marigold may be the best descriptive name because plants are noted for their large flowerheads. They typically grow from 1-4’ tall and feature huge, mostly double-globular flowers (2-4” diameter) in various shades of yellow, orange, and whitish. This variety is unaffected by high summer heat and generally blooms throughout the summer.
Melon, Cantaloupe: Hale's Best Jumbo (Cucumis melo)
Melon, Cantaloupe: Hearts of Gold (Heirloom) (Cucumis melo)
Melon, Cantaloupe: Honey Dew Green Flesh (Heirloom) (Cucumis melo var. inodorus)
Melon, Cantaloupe: Honey Rock (Heirloom) (Cucumis melo)
Melon, Watermelon: Black Diamond (Heirloom) (Citrullus lanatus)
Melon, Watermelon: Crimson Sweet (Citrullus lanatus)
Melon, Watermelon: Moon and Stars (Heirloom) (Citrullus lanatus)
Melon, Watermelon: Orangeglo (Heirloom) (Citrullus lanatus)
Melon, Watermelon: Sugar Baby (Heirloom) (Citrullus lanatus)
Milkweed: Blood Flower (Asclepias curassavica)
Milkweed: Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa)
Milkweed: Common (Asclepias syriaca)
Milkweed: Showy (Asclepias speciosa)
Milkweed: Swamp (Asclepias incarnata)
As the name indicates, these swamp milkweed seeds for sale thrive in swamps and low meadows or along streams. The bright pink flowers attract swarms of bees and butterflies, and have a sweet scent described as similar to vanilla or cinnamon. At one time, the silk from swamp milkweed seed pods was spun for fabric or used for stuffing pillows; in World War II, school children gathered the silk to provide a cheap filling for soldiers' life jackets. Commercial attempts to make use of this abundant plant included the manufacture of paper, fabric, lubricant, fuel, and rubber; eventually these became impractical and were abandoned. Though this plant is toxic to most animals, butterflies are immune to the plant's poison and actually become rather poisonous themselves as protection from predators.
Mint: Pennyroyal (Mentha Pulegium)
Mint: Spear (Mentha spicata)
Nasturtiums: Empress of India (Tropaeolum minus)
Nasturtiums: Jewel Mix (Tropaeolum minus)
Onions: Cipollini, Red (Heirloom) (Allium cepa)
Red Cipollini, also known as Borettana, are heirloom Italian onions that were first cultivated in the 1400's in the town of Boretto, Italy. They have been known as “poor man’s onion” and “little onion” as well. Even though these sweet flat onions are tiny, they are a specialty produce that packs a strong flavor raw and get sweeter when cooked. These onions are perfect for grilling, pickling, or roasting.