Melon, Cantaloupe: Hale's Best Jumbo (Cucumis melo)
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General Information
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Soil Preparation & Start Indoors
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Transplant Outdoors & Start Outdoors
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Crop Care
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Harvesting & Storage
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Seed Saving
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Culinary & Medicinal
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Companion Planting
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Nutrition & Health Benefits
Ease of Growing: Moderate
Grown as: Annual
Days to Maturity: 85-90 days
Growing Habit: Vine
Hardiness: Very Tender. Melons can't tolerate cold weather.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Summer
Growing Season: Long
Growing Conditions: Warm, Hot, Long days. Melons must have hot (ideally 90° F) sunny weather if they are to make the sugar needed to produce sweet fruits. In cooler areas you need to give them as much sun and heat as possible. They should also be sheltered from cool winds. I must emphasize that if Melons don't get enough heat they won't taste very good (even if they successfully produce fruit.)
Outdoor Growing Temp: 65°F - 95°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 70°F. Melons need warm weather, so don’t plant them until all danger of frost is past and the soil temperature is at least 70˚ F.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Warm, Hot). Melon is a desert plant and needs full sun.
Water: Moderate. Melons need to produce a lot of leaves to make enough sugar to produce sweet fruit. To do this they need a constant supply of water. The best way to water them is with a drip system or soaker hose, as they don't like having wet leaves (this encourages fungus disease).
Feeder: Heavy. Not surprisingly for such a large and vigorous plant, melons are fairly hungry feeders. Melons don't need a lot of nitrogen as it encourages leaf growth at the expense of fruit. They do like phosphorus (give them colloidal phosphate) and potassium (wood ashes), as well as boron and magnesium.
Suitability: High heat, Needs lots of space
Small Gardens?: Yes
Containers?: Yes, but will need a large one, like a half wine barrel. Most melons are too big to comfortably grow in containers, but a few of the smaller cultivars will work if the container is big enough (at least 18" wide and deep and preferably bigger). This is sometimes done in cool climates, where the plants are grown in greenhouses. When growing such large plants in containers you have to be particularly attentive to watering. You will probably need to support them too.
Attracts beneficial insects?: No
Forage: Rabbits.
Plant Height: 18-36
Spacing: 3 plants per hill, hill spacing 36-48"
Produces: oval melon deep green skin with golden netting which contains an appealing salmon color, aromatic and sweet flesh.
Hardiness Zone: 4-11
Soil Preparation
Compost (N), 4 cup(s) per plant, before transplanting, 1 time: Incorporate 1 quart of compost or aged manure (melons love old manure) into the planting hole.
Standard Mix, 1 cup(s) per plant, before transplanting, 1 time: Standard mix will supply additional phosphorus, potassium, magnesium and other nutrients. Incorporate it into the planting hole, along with the compost. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
- 4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
- 2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
- 2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
- 1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
- 1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Start Indoors
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 100°F, optimal 70°F to 95°F, optimal 95°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 10 to 12 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: on last frost date. Start them indoors and warm the soil with black plastic or cloches before planting. Like most Cucurbits they dislike root disturbance, so should be started in cell packs, soil blocks or individual 4" pots (best).
1. Plant 2 seeds to a 4" pot.
2. Thin to the best one after both have emerged.
Don’t start your Melons too early, as you don’t want them to get rootbound. If it is too cold to put them out when they are ready, you will have to move them into larger pots.
Harden Off: on last frost date. Allow plants to adapt to their new outdoor temperatures. Place outside for a longer amount of time each day to harden off for at least a week before transplanting.
Transplant Outdoors
1. Plant out the seedlings up to their first true leaves and water immediately.
2. When they have recovered from transplanting, give them a liquid feed to give the a boost.
Warm, Hot: Melons must have hot (ideally 90°F) sunny weather if they are to make the sugar needed to produce sweet fruits. In cooler areas you need to give them as much sun and heat as possible. They should also be sheltered from cool winds. I must emphasize that if Melons don't get enough heat they won't taste very good (even if they successfully produce fruit.)
When outdoor temp: 65°F to 95°F, optimal temp 80°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 70°F. Melons need warm weather, so don’t plant them until all danger of frost is past and the soil temperature is at least 70˚ F.
Spacing: 36.0"-60.0", (3 per 4'x4') plants per sq ft.
Intensive Beds: Intensive gardeners plant Melons 15, 18, or 24" apart, depending upon the soil and the size of the variety. They are usually planted in rows to facilitate supporting them and grown upwards so they take up less space.
Hills: Space the hills 3 to 5 feet apart, with 3 plants to a hill. Melons are often planted in hills, slightly elevated above the surrounding soil. This helps the soil to warm up faster and provides better drainage (melons rot easily in wet soil). Plant the seeds on edge, sowing 5 to 6 seeds on each mound. When these are growing well, pinch out the inferior seedlings, to leave the best 3 plants to grow on.
Rows: Space the plants 18 to 24" apart, in rows 72" apart.
Support: Yes. The plants can be trained up trellises to save space, just as you would Cucumbers. However the fruits are heavier than cucumbers and will need support (slings made from old panty-hose work well.) If a fruit is growing on the ground you can insert a tin can, plant pot, tile or stone underneath it, to keep it off the soil.
Start Outdoors
When outdoor temp: 65°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 70°F. Melons need warm weather, so don’t plant them until all danger of frost is past and the soil temperature is at least 70˚ F.
Seed Depth: 0.5"-2.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cool soil and 2" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 36"-60", (3 per 4'x4') plants per sq ft.
Intensive Beds: Intensive gardeners plant Melons 15 to 18 to 24” apart, depending upon the soil and variety. They are usually planted in rows to facilitate supporting them. If they grow upwards they take up a lot less space.
Hills: Space the hills 3 to 5 feet apart, with 3 plants to a hill. Melons are often planted in hills, slightly elevated above the surrounding soil. This helps the soil to warm up faster and provides better drainage (melons rot easily in wet soil). Plant the seeds on edge, sowing 5 to 6 seeds on each mound. When these are growing well, pinch out the inferior seedlings, to leave the best 3 plants to grow on.
Rows: Space the plants 18 to 24 apart, in rows 72” apart.
Summer Crop: 3-4 weeks after last frost date. If your growing season is long and hot enough, you may want to direct sow your Melons. They will germinate and grow rapidly in warm (75˚ F) soil.
In moist climates melons are often grown on hills from 3"-12" high, as this helps the soil to warm up faster and provides better drainage (melons rot easily in wet soil). To make a hill remove 2 spadesful of soil, dump in 2 spadesful of compost or aged manure), then replace the soil. Mix it all together and shape it into a low mound.
In dry climates they are planted in slight depressions (remove 2" of soil and use it to make a water retaining rim) to conserve moisture. When sowing in hills or basins you can sow 6 seeds in a circle 1" deep and 4" apart. Plant the seeds on edge, ½˝ to 1˝deep. When all the seeds have germinated you should thin to the best 2 or 3. You might want to pre-soak the seeds overnight before planting, especially if you are sowing directly outside.
Support: Yes. The plants can be trained up trellises to save space, just as you would Cucumbers. However the fruits are heavier than cucumbers and will need support (slings made from old panty-hose work well.). If a fruit is growing on the ground you can insert a tin can, plant pot, tile or stone underneath it, to keep it off the soil.
Water Needs: Moderate. Melons are quite shallow rooted, so need fairly constant water. The best way to water them is with a drip system or soaker hose, as they don't like having wet leaves (this encourages fungus disease).
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Melons are fairly hungry plants. They don't like a lot of nitrogen, but they do need plenty of phosphorus and potassium.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 gallon(s) per plant, regularly, 2 times a week. Melons are quite shallow rooted so they need a constant and even supply of water. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist but never soggy for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Thinning, after sowing: 18" apart, after sowing, 1 time. When all of the seeds have germinated, thin the plants to their final spacing.
Side Dressing, after sowing: Mulch, 2", after sowing, 1 time. Mulch helps to conserve moisture in the soil in hot weather. Don’t apply it until the soil has warmed up however.
Pruning, before flowering: before flowering, 2 times. The seedlings should be pinched back twice, so they produce four growing tips. These are then allowed to grow and flower.
Side Dressing, at early fruit set: Compost tea, 2 cup(s) per plant, at early fruit set, 1 time. When the flowers start to set fruit, you should give the plants a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp. Side dressing should be done cautiously with melons, as too much nitrogen may merely encourage foliage growth at the expense of fruiting.
Thinning, during fruit production: during fruit production, 1 time. Growers often allow one fruit to develop on each branch and then pinch off any others that form. The fewer fruit you allow to develop, the bigger they will all be.
Watering, during fruit production: Water, 1 gallon(s), during fruit production, 2 times a week This is most critical when the fruits are sizing up and they should get all the water they can use at this time (in very hot weather this could be as much as 2 gallons a day). Ideally this should be lukewarm so it doesn’t cool the soil. When the fruits have reached full size you should ease up on watering, otherwise the fruit may split. The best way to water Melons is with a drip system, as they don’t like having wet leaves (this encourages fungus disease).
Side Dressing, during fruit production: Compost tea, 4 cup(s) per plant, during fruit production, every 3 weeks. If the soil isn't very fertile feed the plants regularly with compost tea after the first fruits set. Side dressing should be done cautiously with melons, as too much nitrogen may merely encourage vegetative growth at the expense of fruiting.
Support: Yes. The plants can be trained up trellises to save space, just as you would Cucumbers. However the fruits are heavier than cucumbers and will need support (slings made from old panty-hose work well.). If a fruit is growing on the ground you can insert a tin can, plant pot, tile or stone underneath it, to keep it off the soil.
Harvesting
When a Melon is ripe:
It develops a very strong aroma.
The blossom end gets soft.
Most varieties develop cracks around the stem.
Gently roll the fruit in your hand, if it separates from the vine it is ready.
The tendril closest to the fruit usually shrivels up.
The spot where the melon was resting on the ground will turn from white to yellow.
Storage
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-14 days
The fruit should be treated like Tomatoes and kept at room temperature. Ideally they should be eaten as soon as possible, as they will only deteriorate over time.
Storage Req:
Storage Temp: 55-65°F
Storage Length: 1-2 days
Hand pollinating Melons isn't difficult, though the flowers are smaller than other Cucurbits. The flowers are most receptive to pollination before any fruit start growing. Once there are fruit maturing on the plant they become less inclined to produce more by pollinating successfully.
You need to prepare to pollinate the flowers the night before, by finding some male and female flowers (the female has a tiny "melon" behind the flower) that are about to open the following day. Tape them shut with a little piece of masking tape (don't tape it too well or it will be hard to remove without damaging the flower). This prevents them from opening and being pollinated before you get to them.
The next day pick a male flower and remove its tape and petals. Then carefully open a female flower (from a different plant), being very careful to not damage the petals. Insert the male flower into a female flower and brush the pollen from the anthers on to stigma. Finally tape the female flower closed again. The petals will soon fall off and if pollination was successful the tiny fruit will begin to grow.
If you are adventurous, you could collect the seed from any ripe fruit as you eat it (so long as it isn't an F1 hybrid) and see what grows. In the case of Melons, I would avoid hybrids for this reason, it seems a shame not to be able to use some of those seeds.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-4 years
Germination Percentage: 80%
Culinary
Delectable heirloom with a lovely, sweet melon taste.
Culinary Use:
There's a hard outer skin that must be removed as well as seeds. This is most easily done once the melon has been sliced open. Melons are best eaten as soon as they are cut open. They can be eaten alone or made into a fruit freeze, sorbet, soup, and are especially delicious wrapped in prosciutto.
Fruit: raw. Said to be the finest-tasting of the melons, cantaloupes have a very watery flesh but with a delicate sweet flavor. They are very refreshing, especially in hot weather. Rich in vitamins B and C. The flesh of the fruit can be dried, ground into a powder and used with cereals when making bread, biscuits etc.
Seed: raw. Rich in oil with a nutty flavor but very fiddly to use because the seed is small and covered with a fibrous coat. The seed contains between 12.5 - 39.1% oil. An edible oil is obtained from the seed.
Medicinal
Companion Planting
Other suggested helpers for melons are as follows: Marigold deters beetles, nasturtium deters bugs and beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection.
Problems
Aphids
Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina),
Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), \Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris),
Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata),
Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
Spider Mites
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Preys on Aphids, small Caterpillars and Caterpillar eggs, Flea beetles, Fleahoppers, Lygus bugs, Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies.
To attract Big-Eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Cucumber Beetles
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Thrips
To attract Big-eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Hoverflies: Preys on Aphids, Scale insects, Caterpillars, and Thrips.
To attract Hoverflies to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Prey on Spider Mites, Cabbage Looper, Insect Eggs, Caterpillars, Aphids, and Thrips.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Plants that attract Minute Pirate Bugs are: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Nutrition
Health Benefits of Cantaloupe
Prevents Asthma: Cantaloupe is a rich source of vitamin C and beta-carotene. These nutrients are very helpful in lowering the risk of asthma.
Prevents Cancer: Cantaloupe aids in the prevention of cancer and the eradication of free radicals, the harmful by-products of cell metabolism that lead to a number of dangerous conditions. Cantaloupe is a rich source of beta-carotene, an essential carotenoid that the body requires. It works as an antioxidant and lowers the risk of different types of cancers, and the phytochemicals present in fresh fruits like cantaloupes have also been linked to anti-tumor behavior.
Boosts Immunity: Cantaloupe provides vitamin C, vitamin A, beta-carotene, and phytochemicals that work against free radicals. Vitamin C scavenges disease-causing free radicals and acts as an important line of defense for a healthy immune system. It also stimulates the production of white blood cells, which seek out and destroy dangerous bacteria, viruses, and other toxic substances or foreign bodies that may have found their way into our bloodstream.
Reduces Dehydration: The water content in cantaloupe makes it a great snack in summer as it prevents dehydration. This is a major reason why muskmelons are included as a snack food in summer picnics.
Skin & Hair Care: Cantaloupes contain dietary beta-carotene that ensures no overdose or vitamin A toxicity because the body only converts as much as it needs, unlike supplements; the rest remains as beta-carotene to fight diseases as antioxidants. The amount that turns into vitamin A enters the skin and stimulates the membrane of skin cells and increases growth and repair. This protects the skin membrane against harmful toxins that prematurely age the skin. Vitamin A cream is also used as a salve for irritation and redness on the skin, due to its naturally soothing qualities. Vitamin A is also good for sebum production, which helps keep the hair healthy and moisturized.
Regulates Blood Pressure: Potassium, one of the essential nutrients found in cantaloupes, is a vasodilator, which means it relaxes the blood vessels and reduces blood pressure. Elevated levels of blood pressure can act as a stressor on the body and can even induce the release of stress hormones like cortisol. Potassium increases the flow of blood and oxygen to the brain, which induces a calming sensation. Plus, reducing the presence of stress hormones in the body can reduce symptoms of anxiety.
Controls Diabetes: Early research shows that cantaloupe is connected with improved insulin metabolism, which means a more stable fluctuation of blood sugar, preventing the dangerous spikes and plunges of blood sugar that all diabetics fear. It has also been shown to reduce oxidative stress on kidneys, which can further prevent a number of kidney-related diseases.
Treats Arthritis: The phytochemicals in cantaloupes have anti-inflammatory qualities. This means that having a cantaloupe in your diet can help prevent oxidative stress on your joints and bones, thereby reducing inflammation. Chronic inflammation of these vital areas can lead to conditions like arthritis, so make sure to add plenty of cantaloupes to your diet if you’re feeling creaky around the joints!
Promotes Digestion: Cantaloupes have a high amount of dietary fiber, which is an essential component of healthy bowel movements and digestive health. Eating a proper amount of dietary fiber can bulk up your stool, reduce constipation, and make your bowel movements regular. By ensuring a smooth flow through your digestive tract and colon, you can reduce your risk of colorectal cancer and other dangerous gastrointestinal conditions.
Aids in Pregnancy: The folate content in cantaloupe is very helpful for pregnant women as it helps reduce birth defects. It can prevent neural tube defects and keep the baby healthy without delivering any side effects.
Suggested Varieties
Amaranth: Love Lies Bleeding (Heirloom) (Amaranthus caudatus)
Amaranth: Perfecta (Heirloom) (Amaranthus Tricolor 'Perfecta')
Amaranth: Red Garnet (Heirloom) (Amaranthus tricolor)
Balm: Lemon (Melissa officinalis)
Bergamot: Wild (Monarda fistulosa)
Cabbage: Early Jersey Wakefield (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
English Marigold (Calendula officinalis)
Caraway (Carum carvi)
Carrots: Chantenay Red Cored (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Cosmic Purple (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Danvers (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Rainbow Blend (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Scarlet Nantes (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Tendersweet (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Chives: Garlic (Allium tuberosum)
Chives: Onion (Allium schoenoprasum var. album)
Clover: Crimson (Trifolium incarnatum)
Coriander: Leisure (Coriandrum sativum)
Corn: Country Gentleman-Open Pollinated (Heirloom) (Zea mays)
Corn: Golden Bantam-Open Pollinated (Heirloom) (Zea mays)
Corn, Popcorn: Shaman's Blue (Hybrid) Open Pollinated (Zea mays)
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Blue corn originated in the Andes Mountains of Peru, where the native peoples usually ground it into flour for cooking. Indians of Mexico and the southwestern United States also widely used this corn, since its dryness made it an excellent flour corn and gave it good resistance to disease. This exciting blue popcorn receives high marks for both visual and taste appeal. The unique blue/purple kernel pops into mounds of snow white popcorn that will satisfy any popcorn lover with its slightly sweet flavor.
Corn, Popcorn: South American Yellow (Zea mays)
According to evidence found by archaeologists on the northern coast of Peru, popcorn was a staple in the ancient civilizations of South America. Popcorn also grew above the border, and it once occupied a space in nearly every American garden. At the beginning of the twentieth century, 52 varieties of popcorn were offered by the seed catalogs of the time. A wise choice for popcorn lovers! This prolific variety bears 2-3, 6-9 inch ears per plant. When popped, the large yellow kernels produce a buttery tasting popcorn.
Corn, Popcorn: Strawberry Red (Zea Mays)
Although it's exact origin is unknown, it is believed that Strawberry Red Popcorn was domesticated by the Olmec and the Mayans. Not only is this amazing variety edible, but it is just as decorative. Each plant grows to 5-6' and bares two or so 2-3" strawberry shaped ears that are covered with brilliant burgundy kernels! Your mind will be blown as you watch the red kernels pop into white popcorn with in the blink of eye!
Cosmos: Bright Lights (Cosmos sulphureus)
Cosmos: Candy Stripe (Cosmos bipinnatus)
Cosmos: Radiance (Cosmos bipinnatus)
Dill: Dukat (Anethum graveolens)
Fennel: Florence (Foeniculum vulgare var. azoricum)
Marigolds: Naughty Marietta (Tagetes patula)
Marigolds: Sparky Mix French (Tagetes patula)
Marigold: White (Tagetes Erecta 'Kilimanjaro')
Commonly called African marigold, Aztec marigold, American marigold or big marigold, is native to Mexico and Central America. Big marigold may be the best descriptive name because plants are noted for their large flowerheads. They typically grow from 1-4’ tall and feature huge, mostly double-globular flowers (2-4” diameter) in various shades of yellow, orange, and whitish. This variety is unaffected by high summer heat and generally blooms throughout the summer.
Milkweed: Blood Flower (Asclepias curassavica)
Milkweed: Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa)
Milkweed: Common (Asclepias syriaca)
Milkweed: Showy (Asclepias speciosa)
Milkweed: Swamp (Asclepias incarnata)
As the name indicates, these swamp milkweed seeds for sale thrive in swamps and low meadows or along streams. The bright pink flowers attract swarms of bees and butterflies, and have a sweet scent described as similar to vanilla or cinnamon. At one time, the silk from swamp milkweed seed pods was spun for fabric or used for stuffing pillows; in World War II, school children gathered the silk to provide a cheap filling for soldiers' life jackets. Commercial attempts to make use of this abundant plant included the manufacture of paper, fabric, lubricant, fuel, and rubber; eventually these became impractical and were abandoned. Though this plant is toxic to most animals, butterflies are immune to the plant's poison and actually become rather poisonous themselves as protection from predators.
Mint: Pennyroyal (Mentha Pulegium)
Mint: Spear (Mentha spicata)
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Nasturtiums: Empress of India (Tropaeolum minus)
Nasturtiums: Jewel Mix (Tropaeolum minus)
Oregano: Greek (Origanum vulgare hirtum)
Oregano: Italian (Origanum vulgare)
Italian Oregano is a very popular "pizza herb" widely used in Italian, Greek and Mexican cooking. Leaves can be used fresh or dried and add warm spicy flavor to your favorite recipes! Bright blue-green plants grow 6" tall and up to 24" in diameter. Leaves can be harvested in 85 to 95 days (before flowers appear). Perennial. Drought tolerant.
Parsley: Italian Giant (Heirloom) (Petroselinum crispum var. neapolitanum)
Penstemon: Rocky Mountain (Penstemon strictus)
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Poached Egg Plant (Limnanthes douglasii)
This native species was first discovered by David Douglas, a Scottish botanist commissioned to collect native American plants suitable for the gardens of Great Britain. The species name "douglasii" honors his discovery, while the genus name "Limnanthes" means "marsh flower" because of this plant's preference for moist soil. This fragrant butterfly magnet has been awarded the Royal Horticultural Society's prestigious Award of Garden Merit.
Pumpkin: Connecticut Field (Organic) (Cucurbita pepo)
Pumpkin: Cushaw Green Striped (Heirloom) (Cucurbita mixta)
Pumpkin: Fairytale (Heirloom) (Cucurbita moschata)
Pumpkin: Jack O' Lantern (Heirloom) (Cucurbita maxima)
Radish: Early Scarlet Globe (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
Radish: French Breakfast (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
Radish: German Giant (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
Radish: Watermelon (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
The Watermelon radish is a type of Japanese winter radish also known as a "daikon," which simply means "large root" in Japanese. Daikon radishes account for the largest percentage of any cultivated vegetable in Japan, and can be found in some form in nearly every meal of that country. Watermelon radishes, which orginated in north China near Beijing, are often served sweetened there as a dessert or fruit.
Radish: White Spear Sprouting (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
Squash, Summer: Dark Green Zucchini (Heirloom) (Cucurbita pepo)
This is the traditional, reliable zucchini that just keeps on producing! Fruits are dark green, and nice and straight! Matures in about 60 days. Average water needs. Attractive to bees, butterflies, and/or birds.
Squash, Summer: Dixie (Cucurbita pepo)
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