Tomatillo: Green (Organic) (Physalis ixocarpa)
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Though the tomatillo (to-ma-TEE-yo) is distantly related to the tomato and is grown in a similar way, the likeness ends there. Tomatillos originally grew wild in the fields of Central America, and became a common ingredient in local cuisine. These fruits have a tart, distinctive flavor and can be used either raw or cooked. Many traditional Mexican foods such as salsa, guacamole, and gazpacho include tomatillos as a main ingredient.
Scientific Name: Physalis ixocarpa
Native Range: Southern United States, Mexico
Ease of Growing: Easy
Grown as: Annual Zones: 4-7/Perennial Zones: 8-11
Days to Maturity: 90-110 (Spring/Summer)
Hardiness: Tender. Tomatillos are sub-tropical and need plenty of fun and a warm sheltered spot.
Crops: Spring Transplant
Growing Season: Short, Long
Growing Conditions: Warm, Hot. Grow tomatillos like you would tomatoes, though they do not require staking and are more resistant to pests and diseases.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 65°F - 90°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 60°F
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: No
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Warm, Hot). These plants prefer full sun.
Water: Moderate. Tomatillos are quite drought tolerant, but for best fruit production they should be watered regularly.
Feeder: Light. Generally, Tomatillos are independent plants and don't need a lot of attention. Give them a feed of compost tea or liquid Kelp when the flowers first appear.
Suitability: Drought tolerant, High heat, Needs lots of space.
Small Gardens?: Yes
Containers?: Yes. Tomatillos are well suited to container growing, and will do quite well if you make sure to give them plenty of sun and a steady supply of water. Plant them in pot at least 12” deep and 8 to 12” in diameter.
Attracts beneficial insects?: No.
Maintenance: Low
Plant Height: 48-60"
Plant Diameter: 24-36"
Spacing: 24-36"
Produces: small, spherical and green or green-purple fruit, averaging 1/2 to 1 1/2".
Zone: 4-11
Native Range: Southern United States, Mexico
Ease of Growing: Easy
Grown as: Annual Zones: 4-7/Perennial Zones: 8-11
Days to Maturity: 90-110 (Spring/Summer)
Hardiness: Tender. Tomatillos are sub-tropical and need plenty of fun and a warm sheltered spot.
Crops: Spring Transplant
Growing Season: Short, Long
Growing Conditions: Warm, Hot. Grow tomatillos like you would tomatoes, though they do not require staking and are more resistant to pests and diseases.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 65°F - 90°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 60°F
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: No
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Warm, Hot). These plants prefer full sun.
Water: Moderate. Tomatillos are quite drought tolerant, but for best fruit production they should be watered regularly.
Feeder: Light. Generally, Tomatillos are independent plants and don't need a lot of attention. Give them a feed of compost tea or liquid Kelp when the flowers first appear.
Suitability: Drought tolerant, High heat, Needs lots of space.
Small Gardens?: Yes
Containers?: Yes. Tomatillos are well suited to container growing, and will do quite well if you make sure to give them plenty of sun and a steady supply of water. Plant them in pot at least 12” deep and 8 to 12” in diameter.
Attracts beneficial insects?: No.
Maintenance: Low
Plant Height: 48-60"
Plant Diameter: 24-36"
Spacing: 24-36"
Produces: small, spherical and green or green-purple fruit, averaging 1/2 to 1 1/2".
Zone: 4-11
Soil Preference:
Soil pH: 6.0-6.8, Ideal 6.3-6.5. The ideal soil is a well-drained, moisture retentive loam, with lots of organic matter.
Soil Preparation:
Compost (N), 2", in top 10" of soil, 1 time: It is important to add organic matter to the soil, as well as to supply nutrients to the plants.
Soil pH: 6.0-6.8, Ideal 6.3-6.5. The ideal soil is a well-drained, moisture retentive loam, with lots of organic matter.
Soil Preparation:
Compost (N), 2", in top 10" of soil, 1 time: It is important to add organic matter to the soil, as well as to supply nutrients to the plants.
Start Indoors
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Plant the seed ¼ to 1/2” deep (they like to be covered).
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 75°F, optimal 65°F to 70°F, optimal 69°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 12 to 15 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Harden Off: 1 weeks after last frost date. Before transplanting outside you must harden off the seedlings, so they become accustomed to somewhat less than ideal conditions.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 75°F, optimal 65°F to 70°F, optimal 69°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 12 to 15 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Harden Off: 1 weeks after last frost date. Before transplanting outside you must harden off the seedlings, so they become accustomed to somewhat less than ideal conditions.
Transplant Outdoors
2-4 weeks after last frost date: Bury most of the stem when transplanting and roots will form all along its length. If the plants are very leggy you should pinch out the lower leaves before planting. If the weather is cool at transplanting time, you can warm up the soil with cloches or black plastic.
Warm, Hot: Grow tomatillos like you would tomatoes, though they do not require staking and are more resistant to pests and diseases.
When outdoor temp: 65°F to 90°F, optimal temp 70°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 60°F.
Spacing: 24.0"-36.0", (1 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Tomatillo plants can get quite big, so space them 24 to 36" apart each way to give them room to spread out.
Support: Yes. Use a tomato cage to support these tall bushes, which can get 3-4' tall!
Warm, Hot: Grow tomatillos like you would tomatoes, though they do not require staking and are more resistant to pests and diseases.
When outdoor temp: 65°F to 90°F, optimal temp 70°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 60°F.
Spacing: 24.0"-36.0", (1 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Tomatillo plants can get quite big, so space them 24 to 36" apart each way to give them room to spread out.
Support: Yes. Use a tomato cage to support these tall bushes, which can get 3-4' tall!
Generally Tomatillos are independent plants and don't need a lot of attention.
Water Needs: Moderate. Tomatillos are quite drought tolerant, but for best fruit production they should be watered regularly.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Generally, Tomatillos are independent plants and don't need a lot of attention. Give them a feed of compost tea or liquid Kelp when the flowers first appear.
Protecting, while danger of early frost: Row cover(s), 1 layer(s), while danger of early frost, 1 time. Put a cover over plants while danger of frost is present This is important, as an early frost in fall will usually kill unprotected tomato plants. If you can help your plants make it through these first frosts there may not be another one for several weeks, during which time you can get a lot more ripe fruit. Almost anything can help them to survive a mild frost, old bed sheets, straw mulch, plastic sheet, cardboard.
Side Dressing, at flowering: Mulch, 2 inch(es), at flowering, 1 time. A 2" mulch of straw is useful to keep down weeds, conserve moisture and keep the fruit clean. It can also reduce disease problems by keeping soil off of the foliage. Don’t put down an organic mulch until the soil is warm (when plants start to flower), as it could insulate the soil and keep it cool.
Side Dressing, at early fruit set: Compost tea, 1 cup(s), at early fruit set, 1 time. Give each plant a cup of diluted compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed) after the first fruits are set.
Watering, before fruit set: Water, 1 gallon(s) per plant, before fruit set, 2 times a week. Tomatillo is quite drought tolerant but for best fruit production they should be watered regularly.
Watering, during fruit production: Water, 1 gallon(s) per plant, during fruit production, 3 times a week
Support: Yes. Use a tomato cage to support these tall bushes, which can get 3-4' tall!
Water Needs: Moderate. Tomatillos are quite drought tolerant, but for best fruit production they should be watered regularly.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Generally, Tomatillos are independent plants and don't need a lot of attention. Give them a feed of compost tea or liquid Kelp when the flowers first appear.
Protecting, while danger of early frost: Row cover(s), 1 layer(s), while danger of early frost, 1 time. Put a cover over plants while danger of frost is present This is important, as an early frost in fall will usually kill unprotected tomato plants. If you can help your plants make it through these first frosts there may not be another one for several weeks, during which time you can get a lot more ripe fruit. Almost anything can help them to survive a mild frost, old bed sheets, straw mulch, plastic sheet, cardboard.
Side Dressing, at flowering: Mulch, 2 inch(es), at flowering, 1 time. A 2" mulch of straw is useful to keep down weeds, conserve moisture and keep the fruit clean. It can also reduce disease problems by keeping soil off of the foliage. Don’t put down an organic mulch until the soil is warm (when plants start to flower), as it could insulate the soil and keep it cool.
Side Dressing, at early fruit set: Compost tea, 1 cup(s), at early fruit set, 1 time. Give each plant a cup of diluted compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed) after the first fruits are set.
Watering, before fruit set: Water, 1 gallon(s) per plant, before fruit set, 2 times a week. Tomatillo is quite drought tolerant but for best fruit production they should be watered regularly.
Watering, during fruit production: Water, 1 gallon(s) per plant, during fruit production, 3 times a week
Support: Yes. Use a tomato cage to support these tall bushes, which can get 3-4' tall!
Harvesting
Ripening:
Harvest individual fruits when the husk begins to split or the fruit fills out the husk.
Harvest individual fruits when the husk begins to split or the fruit fills out the husk.
Storage
Canning salsa will allow it to keep longer. After filling with contents, process the cans in a boiling hot water bath for 15 min (20 min if at altitudes 1,001-6,000). Store cans in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.
If the jars have become unsealed or there are signs of spoilage (bulging lids, bubbling, or odor) do NOT taste and throw away immediately in a place not accessible by humans or animals.
Storage Req: Canning, Cool
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 0-360 days
Store Tomatillos like you do Tomatoes, on the counter for a couple of weeks.
Storage Req:
Storage Temp: 55-65°F
Storage Length: 0-14 days
If the jars have become unsealed or there are signs of spoilage (bulging lids, bubbling, or odor) do NOT taste and throw away immediately in a place not accessible by humans or animals.
Storage Req: Canning, Cool
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 0-360 days
Store Tomatillos like you do Tomatoes, on the counter for a couple of weeks.
Storage Req:
Storage Temp: 55-65°F
Storage Length: 0-14 days
Tomatillos are some of the easiest crops to save seed from. You can save seed from any Tomatillo so long as it is open pollinated and not a hybrid. To get the seed, simply squeeze it from the ripe fruit.
Seed Viability in Years: 4 - 7 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Seed Viability in Years: 4 - 7 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Taste:
They are the main ingredient in salsa verde and other Mexican dishes.
Culinary Use:
The Tomatillo is important in Mexican cooking, for its use in salsa verde and other dishes. It is not usually eaten out of hand.
Fruit: raw or cooked. The fruit is a berry that is 2.5 cm or more in diameter. When not fully ripe, the fruit can be cooked and used in curries, sauces, soups, stews etc. A delicious flavoring when used like a tomato and added to soups, stews etc. The fully ripe fruit is sweeter and can be eaten out of hand, added to salads or used in pies, preserves etc. The plant conveniently wraps up each fruit in its own "paper bag" (botanically, the calyx) to protect it from pests and the elements. This calyx is toxic and should not be eaten. The fruit can be stored for up to a year if picked before they are fully ripe and left inside their calyx.
Known Hazards: All parts of the plant, except the fruit, are poisonous.
They are the main ingredient in salsa verde and other Mexican dishes.
Culinary Use:
The Tomatillo is important in Mexican cooking, for its use in salsa verde and other dishes. It is not usually eaten out of hand.
Fruit: raw or cooked. The fruit is a berry that is 2.5 cm or more in diameter. When not fully ripe, the fruit can be cooked and used in curries, sauces, soups, stews etc. A delicious flavoring when used like a tomato and added to soups, stews etc. The fully ripe fruit is sweeter and can be eaten out of hand, added to salads or used in pies, preserves etc. The plant conveniently wraps up each fruit in its own "paper bag" (botanically, the calyx) to protect it from pests and the elements. This calyx is toxic and should not be eaten. The fruit can be stored for up to a year if picked before they are fully ripe and left inside their calyx.
Known Hazards: All parts of the plant, except the fruit, are poisonous.
Companion Planting
Marigolds and nasturtiums to attract pollinating bees. Basil, mint, chives, sage, parsley, garlic to repel insect pests. Capsicums, carrots, onions and brassicas grow well next to tomatillos.
Problems
Subject to problems similar to other Solanaceae crops (tomatoes, potatoes, peppers), including Verticillium wilt. Avoid these problems by planting resistant cultivars and rotating with non-Solanaceae crops. Flea beetles, tomato hornworms, Colorado potato beetles and cutworms can be problems.
Flea Beetles
Beneficial insects such as Braconid wasps, Tachinid flies, Lacewings larvae, Damsel bugs, and Big Eyed Bug all prey on Flea Beetles.
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
Damsel Bugs: Preys on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Flea beetles, Potato beetles, and Cabbage worms.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Preys on Aphids, small Caterpillars and Caterpillar eggs, Flea beetles, Fleahoppers, Lygus bugs, Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies.
To attract Big-Eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
Damsel Bugs: Preys on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Flea beetles, Potato beetles, and Cabbage worms.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Preys on Aphids, small Caterpillars and Caterpillar eggs, Flea beetles, Fleahoppers, Lygus bugs, Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies.
To attract Big-Eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Tomato Hornworm
Beneficial Insects such as ladybugs, green lacewings, and braconid wasps all prey on tomato hornworms.
Ladybeetles, Ladybugs, or Ladybird Beetles: Ladybeetles are probably the most well-known of beetles that eat aphids. There are many species, and both the adults and larvae eat aphids. Convergent lady beetles and the seven-spotted ladybeetles are abundant species in the environment. Eggs are found in clutches, yellow and football shaped. Larvae have an alligator-like appearance, and are black with orange markings. Pupae are sedentary. Ladybeetles are commercially available but purchasing is not generally recommended since the adult stage tends to fly away once released. Introductions may be more effective in greenhouses and high tunnels. Diverse plantings can help recruit resident ladybeetles to an area.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Colorado Potato Beetles
Beneficial insects such as ladybugs, spined soldier bugs, lacewing, and several species of tiny parasitic wasps all prey on Colorado Potato Beetles.
Ladybug: Preys on Aphids, Cabbage loopers, Leafhoppers, Whitefly, Spider mites, Fleas, Mealybug, and Colorado potato beetles.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Spined Soldier Bugs: Prey on larvae of Mexican bean beetle, European corn borer, diamondback moth, corn earworm, beet armyworm, fall armyworm, cabbage looper, imported cabbageworm, Colorado potato beetle, velvetbean caterpillar, and flea beetles
To attract Spined Soldier Bugs to your garden try growing: Alfalfa, Apples, Asparagus, Beans, Celery, Cotton, Crucifers, Cucurbits, Onions, Potatoes, Soybeans, Sweet Corn and Tomatoes.
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata),
Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Spined Soldier Bugs: Prey on larvae of Mexican bean beetle, European corn borer, diamondback moth, corn earworm, beet armyworm, fall armyworm, cabbage looper, imported cabbageworm, Colorado potato beetle, velvetbean caterpillar, and flea beetles
To attract Spined Soldier Bugs to your garden try growing: Alfalfa, Apples, Asparagus, Beans, Celery, Cotton, Crucifers, Cucurbits, Onions, Potatoes, Soybeans, Sweet Corn and Tomatoes.
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata),
Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
Cutworms
Beneficial insects such as Ground Beetles, Tachinid Flies, Braconid Wasps, Spiders, Minute Pirate Bugs, Damsel Bugs, Lacewing Larvae, and Birds all prey on Cutworms.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Spiders: Prey on a wide range including bed bugs, aphids, roaches, grasshoppers, cabbage looper, and fruit flies.
To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving spiders, mulch for predatory spiders.
Minute Pirate Bugs: Preys on spider mites, cabbage looper, insect eggs, caterpillars, aphids, thrips
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Damsel Bugs: Prey on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Potato Beetles, and Cabbage Worms.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Spiders: Prey on a wide range including bed bugs, aphids, roaches, grasshoppers, cabbage looper, and fruit flies.
To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving spiders, mulch for predatory spiders.
Minute Pirate Bugs: Preys on spider mites, cabbage looper, insect eggs, caterpillars, aphids, thrips
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Damsel Bugs: Prey on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Potato Beetles, and Cabbage Worms.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
Nutrition
The fruit contains vitamins C and K as well as copper, iron, magnesium, manganese, phosphorus and potassium. It is also rich in niacin.
The Health Benefits of Tomatillo
Improve Digestion: Most vegetables possess a high level of dietary fiber, and tomatillos are no exception. This means that they are very good for digestive health, as fiber can help add bulk to foods and speed their transit through the digestive tract, thereby eliminating constipation, excess gas, bloating, cramping, and even more serious conditions like colon cancer and gastric ulcers. Furthermore, fiber is very good at regulating the release of carbohydrates (simple sugars) into the bloodstream, thereby regulating blood sugar levels, which is important for people suffering from diabetes, who need to strictly control their glucose and insulin levels.
Prevent Cancer: Tomatillos contain unique antioxidant phytochemicals called withanolides , which have been directly linked to anti-cancer and antibacterial functions. Antioxidants help to combat the effects of free radicals, which are the dangerous byproducts of cellular reproduction that can kill or mutate healthy cells and turn them into cancerous cells. Furthermore, the vitamin A, vitamin C, and flavonoids within tomatillos provide other cancer-protective effects, particularly in terms of lung and oral cancers.
Boost Immune System: The vitamin C found in tomatillos can help to boost the immune system by stimulating the production of white blood cells, the body’s primary line of defense against foreign agents and pathogens. Vitamin C is also a key component of collagen production, which supports the health and creation of skin tissue, as well as the cells and tissues that make up our organs and blood vessels, increasing the body’s sustainability and metabolic functions.
Improve Vision: Vitamin A has long been connected to the health of our vision. Tomatillos also contain beta-carotene, a derivative of vitamin A, that functions as an antioxidant and prevents macular degeneration, cataracts, and other conditions that can affect the health of our eyes.
Help in Weight Loss: Tomatillos are one of those preferred vegetables for people who are trying to lose weight. High-nutrient, low-calorie, and low-fat vegetables with high fiber content, like tomatillos, help people to feel full, acquire the necessary nutrients on a daily basis, and reduce the chances of overeating, because they feel satiated. They are ideal if you are trying to reduce obesity for a healthier lifestyle.
Boost Energy Levels: Niacin is a member of the B-family of vitamins that are often overlooked in human health. Niacin is a key element in the enzymatic processes that break down food and complex molecules into usable energy for the body. by increasing the availability of this energy and making the process more efficient, the niacin found in tomatillos can give you a sustainable boost of energy throughout your day.
A Final Word of Caution: Nightshade vegetables tend to have high levels of alkaloids, which can exacerbate inflammation of the joints if you already have certain problems with arthritis or inflammation. However, tomatillos possess relatively low amounts of alkaloids. That being said, consult your doctor before adding tomatillos to your diet if you suffer from these types of health conditions.
Prevent Cancer: Tomatillos contain unique antioxidant phytochemicals called withanolides , which have been directly linked to anti-cancer and antibacterial functions. Antioxidants help to combat the effects of free radicals, which are the dangerous byproducts of cellular reproduction that can kill or mutate healthy cells and turn them into cancerous cells. Furthermore, the vitamin A, vitamin C, and flavonoids within tomatillos provide other cancer-protective effects, particularly in terms of lung and oral cancers.
Boost Immune System: The vitamin C found in tomatillos can help to boost the immune system by stimulating the production of white blood cells, the body’s primary line of defense against foreign agents and pathogens. Vitamin C is also a key component of collagen production, which supports the health and creation of skin tissue, as well as the cells and tissues that make up our organs and blood vessels, increasing the body’s sustainability and metabolic functions.
Improve Vision: Vitamin A has long been connected to the health of our vision. Tomatillos also contain beta-carotene, a derivative of vitamin A, that functions as an antioxidant and prevents macular degeneration, cataracts, and other conditions that can affect the health of our eyes.
Help in Weight Loss: Tomatillos are one of those preferred vegetables for people who are trying to lose weight. High-nutrient, low-calorie, and low-fat vegetables with high fiber content, like tomatillos, help people to feel full, acquire the necessary nutrients on a daily basis, and reduce the chances of overeating, because they feel satiated. They are ideal if you are trying to reduce obesity for a healthier lifestyle.
Boost Energy Levels: Niacin is a member of the B-family of vitamins that are often overlooked in human health. Niacin is a key element in the enzymatic processes that break down food and complex molecules into usable energy for the body. by increasing the availability of this energy and making the process more efficient, the niacin found in tomatillos can give you a sustainable boost of energy throughout your day.
A Final Word of Caution: Nightshade vegetables tend to have high levels of alkaloids, which can exacerbate inflammation of the joints if you already have certain problems with arthritis or inflammation. However, tomatillos possess relatively low amounts of alkaloids. That being said, consult your doctor before adding tomatillos to your diet if you suffer from these types of health conditions.
Suggested Varieties
Amaranth: Love Lies Bleeding (Heirloom) (Amaranthus caudatus)
$1.00 - $5.60
As a decorative flower, Love-Lies-Bleeding grew in many Victorian English gardens; in the language of flowers, it represents hopeless love. In addition to producing lovely flowers, Love-Lies-Bleeding is a form of the grain-producing plant known as amaranth. A staple grain for the Aztecs and Incas, amaranth was referred to as the "golden grain of the gods" and used in religious rituals. The plant nearly died out when the Spanish Conquistadors declared their religious practices barbaric, and made growing amaranth a capital offense. Today, both the leaves and the seeds of amaranth are an important food source in many parts of the world. This unique grain provides an impressive amount of vitamins and minerals, as well as being very rich in protein.
Amaranth: Perfecta (Heirloom) (Amaranthus Tricolor 'Perfecta')
$1.00 - $5.60
This fast-growing, heat-loving plant originated in tropical Asia, where it is widely cultivated as a leaf vegetable. It bears large, elliptic or oval leaves on erect stems. The brightly hued new leaves fade gradually to medium green with deep maroon markings. This cultivar is spectacular from summer to frost. Insignificant clusters of green or reddish flowers appear at the stem tips and in the leaf axils in summer. Small capsules containing a single brown or black seed follow the flowers.
Amaranth: Red Garnet (Heirloom) (Amaranthus tricolor)
$1.00 - $5.60
Amaranth had a sacred status in the ancient civilizations of the Aztecs and Incas, since the grain was used in various religious rituals. It remains a staple food in modern Mexico and some parts of Asia, being prepared in numerous dishes from sweet to savory. One traditional Mexican treat known as "alegria" is made with amaranth grain and honey or molasses. A super grain, amaranth can be used for gluten free flour; it also makes a complete protein when mixed with another grain. In addition, amaranth greens have a higher iron content than any other green vegetable except parsley, as well as containing many valuable vitamins and minerals.
Asparagus: Mary Washington (Heirloom) (Asparagus officinalis)
$1.00 - $5.60
This member of the lily family originated in the Mediterranean countries; the ancient Greeks and Romans greatly favored it. According to legend, Julius Caesar required his asparagus to be served with melted butter. By the 16th century, the kings of England and France had claimed it as their special delicacy, causing the vegetable to be nicknamed the "food of kings." Louis XIV of France had his own supply growing year round in greenhouses, since he greatly enjoyed it. In the Renaissance, asparagus was considered an elegant vegetable and often found at the tables of the wealthy. Asparagus came to America with the colonists, and has since grown wild all over the United States.
Balm: Lemon (Melissa officinalis)
$1.00 - $5.60
Lemon balm was most likely introduced to Spain by the Moors in the 7th century; by the Middle Ages, it was common throughout Europe. Its Latin name, Melissa, means “bee” in Greek and refers to the plant's tendency to attract bees; first century Roman naturalist Pliny the Elder recommended that lemon balm be cultivated near bee hives to prevent the bees from straying. A member of the mint family, lemon balm dates back over 2,000 years for use as a medicinal herb primarily to treat stress and anxiety, insomnia, and indigestion. Eleventh century Persian physician and philosopher Avicenna wrote of the benefits of lemon balm in treating low spirits or melancholy. According to an old Arabian proverb, “Balm makes the heart merry and joyful.” According to historical record, both King Charles V of France and Emperor Charles V drank lemon balm beverages to improve their health; lemon balm was also one of the plants grown in Thomas Jefferson’s famous experimental garden. Today, herbal treatments containing lemon balm often include other calming herbs such as valerian, chamomile, and hops to encourage relaxation.
Beans: Black Turtle (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
In colonial America, black beans were not appreciated because of their unappealing color. As a result, the Black Turtle bean was advertised as an affordable substitute for turtle in the making of turtle soup, a delicacy during that time in history. Black beans originate in South America; some historians fix the date as far back as 8,000 BC to the Pre-Incan civilization in Peru. People from this time valued dry beans because of their long lasting freshness in storage. Black beans are a favorite in Latin American cooking for use in soups, sauces, and main dishes.
Beans: Blue Lake Bush #274 (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
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Named for the Blue Lake District near Ukiah, CA, where they first developed in 1961, these world famous beans set the standard for bush beans. The canning industry first widely used Blue Lake beans because of their excellence when canned, but they soon became known and loved all over the United States. Blue Lake beans stand on the top of the list of gourmet cooks and gardeners alike because of their unsurpassed flavor and high yield.
Beans: Contender Bush (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
First offered to gardeners in 1949, Contender comes from a high yielding, disease resistant strain. Originally, the common bean comes from South America; some historians fix the date as far back as 8,000 BC to the Pre-Incan civilization in Peru. When Columbus arrived in the New World, he found green beans growing with the maize of the Indians. Columbus and other European explorers introduced this new vegetable to their countries, where it eventually spread to the rest of Europe and all over the world.
Beans: Gold Rush Yellow Wax (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
The vegetable we now recognize as the common bean has its roots in South America; some historians fix the date as far back as 8,000 BC to the Pre-Incan civilization in Peru. When Columbus arrived in the New World, he found green beans growing with the maize of the Indians. Columbus and other European explorers introduced this new vegetable to their countries, where it eventually spread to the rest of Europe and all over the world.
Beans: Kentucky Wonder Pole (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
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First appearing in the late 1800's, Kentucky Wonder Pole beans are descended from an old variety of pole bean called Texas Pole. When first introduced, Kentucky Wonder had the name of Old Homestead. In 1877, James J. H. Gregory & Sons made it available in their catalog. It immediately became widely popular for its flat, stringless pods that could be eaten fresh or dried for soup beans.
Beans: Lazy Housewife Pole (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
2015 Bean of the Year. Brought to America by German immigrants and first listed in W. Atlee Burpee’s 1888 catalog. These beans were so-named because they were the first beans to not require destringing! Originally cultivated in Central America, from Mexico to Peru, Bolivia and Argentina. The smaller beans are thought to have been cultivated in Mexico as long as 7,000 years ago, while the larger beans were cultivated in Peru starting 8,000 years ago. High in protein, easy to grow, dry and cook, they have sustained mankind for millennia.
Beans: Pinto (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
The pinto bean has its roots in South America; some historians fix the date as far back as 8,000 BC to the Pre-Incan civilization in Peru. People from this time valued dry beans because of their long lasting freshness in storage. Pinto beans contain the highest amount of fiber of any bean, and are the top choice for Mexican dishes such as refried beans and chile con carne.