Pepper, Sweet: Jimmy Nardello Italian (Heirloom)
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Jimmy Nardello peppers are known best as frying peppers though they are just as flavorful when raw. This variety of pepper was originally from Basilicata, a southern region of Italy. It takes its name from Jimmy Nardello, who inherited it from his parents Guiseppe and Angela Nardello, who brought the seeds from Italy while immigrating to Connecticut in 1887.
Scientific Name: Capsicum annuum
Ease of Growing: Moderate
Grown as: Annual
Days to Maturity: 80-90 days
Growing Habit: Bush
Hardiness: Very Tender. Very tender, they can't stand cold weather or frost.
Crops: Spring Transplant
Growing Season: Long
Growing Conditions: Warm, Hot. Peppers originated in the tropical highlands of Central and South America and grow best with warm (70 to 80˚ F) days, cool (55 to 65˚ F) nights and high humidity. If the soil gets above 85˚ F you can cool the soil by applying mulch and watering frequently with cold water.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 60°F - 95°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 65°F. The soil must be warm (at least 65° F). If necessary you could use black plastic mulch to hasten warming.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: No
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Warm, Hot). Full sun. In very hot climates they may benefit from light shade.
Water: Moderate. Pepper plants are somewhat drought tolerant (especially Hot Peppers), but lack of water can affect fruiting, so they should be kept moist for best production. Drip irrigation works well with Peppers. Sweet Peppers are particularly vulnerable to water stress when fruiting, so keep the soil evenly moist. If not given enough water, the fruits can develop a slightly bitter flavor (and may get Blossom End Rot). Don't leave water on the leaves overnight as this encourages disease.
Feeder: Heavy. Low nitrogen. High potassium. High phosphorus. Peppers are fairly hungry plants and require lots of phosphorus and potassium, but not too much nitrogen (which may result in big vigorous plants, but few fruits).
Suitability: Needs summer shade
Small Gardens?: Yes.
Containers?: Yes, but will need a large one, like a half wine barrel. Choose a container at least 16" in diameter. A container with drainage holes is a necessity in order to successfully grow peppers. Cover the holes with weed cloth, newspaper or any other similar material and then fill with potting soil. Peppers love warm weather and will not thrive if temperatures are either too cold or too hot. Place peppers in full sun in warm climates, but be sure they have access to shade in hot temperatures. Keep well-watered. Stake to keep fruit off the ground, mulch for disease and weed control.
Attracts beneficial insects?: No
Maintenance: Low
Plant Height: 20-24"
Spacing: 18"
Sow Depth: 1/4"
Produces: lots of long, thin peppers that get up to 10" long.
Grow Zones: 4-12
Scoville Heat Units: 0
Garden Uses: Bedding, edging, containers, window boxes and houseplants.
Ease of Growing: Moderate
Grown as: Annual
Days to Maturity: 80-90 days
Growing Habit: Bush
Hardiness: Very Tender. Very tender, they can't stand cold weather or frost.
Crops: Spring Transplant
Growing Season: Long
Growing Conditions: Warm, Hot. Peppers originated in the tropical highlands of Central and South America and grow best with warm (70 to 80˚ F) days, cool (55 to 65˚ F) nights and high humidity. If the soil gets above 85˚ F you can cool the soil by applying mulch and watering frequently with cold water.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 60°F - 95°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 65°F. The soil must be warm (at least 65° F). If necessary you could use black plastic mulch to hasten warming.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: No
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Warm, Hot). Full sun. In very hot climates they may benefit from light shade.
Water: Moderate. Pepper plants are somewhat drought tolerant (especially Hot Peppers), but lack of water can affect fruiting, so they should be kept moist for best production. Drip irrigation works well with Peppers. Sweet Peppers are particularly vulnerable to water stress when fruiting, so keep the soil evenly moist. If not given enough water, the fruits can develop a slightly bitter flavor (and may get Blossom End Rot). Don't leave water on the leaves overnight as this encourages disease.
Feeder: Heavy. Low nitrogen. High potassium. High phosphorus. Peppers are fairly hungry plants and require lots of phosphorus and potassium, but not too much nitrogen (which may result in big vigorous plants, but few fruits).
Suitability: Needs summer shade
Small Gardens?: Yes.
Containers?: Yes, but will need a large one, like a half wine barrel. Choose a container at least 16" in diameter. A container with drainage holes is a necessity in order to successfully grow peppers. Cover the holes with weed cloth, newspaper or any other similar material and then fill with potting soil. Peppers love warm weather and will not thrive if temperatures are either too cold or too hot. Place peppers in full sun in warm climates, but be sure they have access to shade in hot temperatures. Keep well-watered. Stake to keep fruit off the ground, mulch for disease and weed control.
Attracts beneficial insects?: No
Maintenance: Low
Plant Height: 20-24"
Spacing: 18"
Sow Depth: 1/4"
Produces: lots of long, thin peppers that get up to 10" long.
Grow Zones: 4-12
Scoville Heat Units: 0
Garden Uses: Bedding, edging, containers, window boxes and houseplants.
Soil Preparation
Soil Preference:
Soil pH: 5.5-7.0, Ideal 6.0-6.5. Peppers like a deep, loose, moisture retentive soil that is fairly rich in all of the plant nutrients, but especially magnesium. They don't mind acid soils but don't like salt.
Soil Preparation:
Black plastic, 1 layer to warm soil, 1 time: OPTIONAL: The soil must be warm (at least 65˚ F) before these tender plants are set out. If necessary, you could use black plastic mulch to hasten warming. You can also make slits in the plastic for planting and leave the the mulch there to keep the soil warm, moist and weed free while growing the peppers.
Standard Mix, 1 cups per plant, after planting, 1 time: Standard mix will supply additional potassium, phosphorous and other nutrients. It should be incorporated into the the planting hole along with the compost. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting.
The mix consists of:
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Compost (Nitrogen), 2 cups per plant, after planting, 1 time: Add 2 cups of compost or aged manure into the planting hole (along with the Standard Mix).
Soil pH: 5.5-7.0, Ideal 6.0-6.5. Peppers like a deep, loose, moisture retentive soil that is fairly rich in all of the plant nutrients, but especially magnesium. They don't mind acid soils but don't like salt.
Soil Preparation:
Black plastic, 1 layer to warm soil, 1 time: OPTIONAL: The soil must be warm (at least 65˚ F) before these tender plants are set out. If necessary, you could use black plastic mulch to hasten warming. You can also make slits in the plastic for planting and leave the the mulch there to keep the soil warm, moist and weed free while growing the peppers.
Standard Mix, 1 cups per plant, after planting, 1 time: Standard mix will supply additional potassium, phosphorous and other nutrients. It should be incorporated into the the planting hole along with the compost. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting.
The mix consists of:
- 4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
- 2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
- 2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
- 1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
- 1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Compost (Nitrogen), 2 cups per plant, after planting, 1 time: Add 2 cups of compost or aged manure into the planting hole (along with the Standard Mix).
Start Indoors
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and 1/2" deep in warm soil.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 95°F, optimal 65°F to 90°F, optimal 85°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 10 to 10 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 6-8 weeks before last frost date. Peppers need to be started early because they are slow to get going. They are generally one of the last crops to be planted out in late spring, a couple of weeks after Tomatoes (4 weeks after the last frost). Peppers are one of the hardest of the common vegetable crops to raise successfully from seed, as they need quite warm temperatures for fastest growth. Pepper seeds germinate best at a temperature of 85˚ F, which is higher than almost any common crop.
1. Soaking the seed overnight is said to help by removing germination inhibitors and so may speed germination. It is sometimes recommended that before planting you soak the seeds in a 10% bleach solution, for 10 minutes, to kill any disease spores (it should then be rinsed to remove the bleach). It is said that this treatment may also speed germination by several days.
2. Plant the seeds in a flat (they don’t mind transplanting) or in cell packs or soil blocks.
3. It is a good idea to water them with tepid water to avoid cooling them.
Harden Off: 2-3 weeks after last frost date. If you are planting Peppers out in cool spring conditions, they should be hardened off carefully. Do this slowly over a week, by reducing the amount of water they get and by leaving them outside for longer periods each day. This helps them to get accustomed to the somewhat less than ideal conditions to be found outside. In warm summer weather there is no need to harden them off. However you may want to keep them outside in the shade for a few days, so they don’t get sunburned when planted out.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 95°F, optimal 65°F to 90°F, optimal 85°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 10 to 10 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 6-8 weeks before last frost date. Peppers need to be started early because they are slow to get going. They are generally one of the last crops to be planted out in late spring, a couple of weeks after Tomatoes (4 weeks after the last frost). Peppers are one of the hardest of the common vegetable crops to raise successfully from seed, as they need quite warm temperatures for fastest growth. Pepper seeds germinate best at a temperature of 85˚ F, which is higher than almost any common crop.
1. Soaking the seed overnight is said to help by removing germination inhibitors and so may speed germination. It is sometimes recommended that before planting you soak the seeds in a 10% bleach solution, for 10 minutes, to kill any disease spores (it should then be rinsed to remove the bleach). It is said that this treatment may also speed germination by several days.
2. Plant the seeds in a flat (they don’t mind transplanting) or in cell packs or soil blocks.
3. It is a good idea to water them with tepid water to avoid cooling them.
Harden Off: 2-3 weeks after last frost date. If you are planting Peppers out in cool spring conditions, they should be hardened off carefully. Do this slowly over a week, by reducing the amount of water they get and by leaving them outside for longer periods each day. This helps them to get accustomed to the somewhat less than ideal conditions to be found outside. In warm summer weather there is no need to harden them off. However you may want to keep them outside in the shade for a few days, so they don’t get sunburned when planted out.
4 weeks after last frost date:
1. Good transplants should be about 6˝ tall when they go outside.
2. The soil must be warm (at least 65˚ F) before these tender plants are set out.
Warm, Hot: Peppers originated in the tropical highlands of Central and South America and grow best with warm (70 to 80˚ F) days, cool (55 to 65˚ F) nights and high humidity. If the soil gets above 85˚ F you can cool the soil by applying mulch and watering frequently with cold water.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 65°F. The soil must be warm (at least 65° F). If necessary you could use black plastic mulch to hasten warming.
Spacing: 10-12", 1 plants per sq ft. Intensive: Space Peppers 8" apart.
Rows: Space the plants 10 to 12" apart, with 24" between the rows. Depending on the variety of peppers, use the recommended plants per square foot. If you find your plants are too crowded you can transplant while they are still small with additional space between plants.
Support: No. Though staking isn't usually needed, it is sometimes helpful to keep the plants upright and to keep fruit off the ground. If your plants start to lean you should put in a sturdy stake several inches away from stem.
1. Good transplants should be about 6˝ tall when they go outside.
2. The soil must be warm (at least 65˚ F) before these tender plants are set out.
Warm, Hot: Peppers originated in the tropical highlands of Central and South America and grow best with warm (70 to 80˚ F) days, cool (55 to 65˚ F) nights and high humidity. If the soil gets above 85˚ F you can cool the soil by applying mulch and watering frequently with cold water.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 65°F. The soil must be warm (at least 65° F). If necessary you could use black plastic mulch to hasten warming.
Spacing: 10-12", 1 plants per sq ft. Intensive: Space Peppers 8" apart.
Rows: Space the plants 10 to 12" apart, with 24" between the rows. Depending on the variety of peppers, use the recommended plants per square foot. If you find your plants are too crowded you can transplant while they are still small with additional space between plants.
Support: No. Though staking isn't usually needed, it is sometimes helpful to keep the plants upright and to keep fruit off the ground. If your plants start to lean you should put in a sturdy stake several inches away from stem.
All Peppers like a warm, sunny and sheltered spot. They originated in the tropical highlands of Central and South America and grow best with warm (70 to 80˚ F) days, cool (55 to 70˚ F) nights and high humidity.
Water Needs: Moderate. Pepper plants are somewhat drought tolerant (especially Hot Peppers), but lack of water can affect fruiting, so they should be kept moist for best production. Drip irrigation works well with Peppers. Sweet Peppers are particularly vulnerable to water stress when fruiting, so keep the soil evenly moist. If not given enough water, the fruits can develop a slightly bitter flavor (and may get Blossom End Rot). Don't leave water on the leaves overnight as this encourages disease.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Low nitrogen. High potassium. High phosphorus. Peppers are fairly hungry plants and require lots of phosphorus and potassium, but not too much nitrogen (which may result in big vigorous plants, but few fruits).
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Compost tea, 2 cup(s) per plant, after transplanting, every 3 weeks. It’s a good idea to feed the plants with compost tea or liquid kelp, after they have recovered from transplanting. After that, give the plants a regular feeding of compost tea every 3 weeks, and be sure to do so when flowering and producing fruit.
Pruning, when 6" tall: when 6" tall, 1 time. Some gardeners pinch out the growing tip when the plant is about 6" tall to encourage bushy, branching growth.
Watering, before flowering: Water, 3 quart(s), before flowering, 2 times a week. The plants should be given all the water they need on a regular basis. This means checking the soil every few days and watering until it is thoroughly moist. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 1" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, at flowering: Mulch, 2 inch(es), at flowering, 1 time. Mulch is helpful to conserve moisture and to keep down weeds around these shallow rooted crops. Be aware that mulch insulates the soil, so don’t apply it until the soil is warm (65ºF to depth of 4"). Ideally wait until the plants are flowering.
Watering, after flowering: Water, 3 quart(s), after flowering, 2 times a week. The plants must never be short of water while they are flowering and producing fruit. Make sure the soil is constantly moist, as they have a greater need for water at this time.
Support: No. Though staking isn't usually needed, it is sometimes helpful to keep the plants upright and to keep fruit off the ground. If your plants start to lean you should put in a sturdy stake several inches away from stem.
Water Needs: Moderate. Pepper plants are somewhat drought tolerant (especially Hot Peppers), but lack of water can affect fruiting, so they should be kept moist for best production. Drip irrigation works well with Peppers. Sweet Peppers are particularly vulnerable to water stress when fruiting, so keep the soil evenly moist. If not given enough water, the fruits can develop a slightly bitter flavor (and may get Blossom End Rot). Don't leave water on the leaves overnight as this encourages disease.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Low nitrogen. High potassium. High phosphorus. Peppers are fairly hungry plants and require lots of phosphorus and potassium, but not too much nitrogen (which may result in big vigorous plants, but few fruits).
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Compost tea, 2 cup(s) per plant, after transplanting, every 3 weeks. It’s a good idea to feed the plants with compost tea or liquid kelp, after they have recovered from transplanting. After that, give the plants a regular feeding of compost tea every 3 weeks, and be sure to do so when flowering and producing fruit.
Pruning, when 6" tall: when 6" tall, 1 time. Some gardeners pinch out the growing tip when the plant is about 6" tall to encourage bushy, branching growth.
Watering, before flowering: Water, 3 quart(s), before flowering, 2 times a week. The plants should be given all the water they need on a regular basis. This means checking the soil every few days and watering until it is thoroughly moist. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 1" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, at flowering: Mulch, 2 inch(es), at flowering, 1 time. Mulch is helpful to conserve moisture and to keep down weeds around these shallow rooted crops. Be aware that mulch insulates the soil, so don’t apply it until the soil is warm (65ºF to depth of 4"). Ideally wait until the plants are flowering.
Watering, after flowering: Water, 3 quart(s), after flowering, 2 times a week. The plants must never be short of water while they are flowering and producing fruit. Make sure the soil is constantly moist, as they have a greater need for water at this time.
Support: No. Though staking isn't usually needed, it is sometimes helpful to keep the plants upright and to keep fruit off the ground. If your plants start to lean you should put in a sturdy stake several inches away from stem.
Harvesting
Ripening: Most varieties can be eaten when green or under-ripe, however, the flavor improves as plants mature.
Harvest early and often: the more you pick the more they will produce.
Always cut, do NOT pull: fruits from plants.
Harvest early and often: the more you pick the more they will produce.
Always cut, do NOT pull: fruits from plants.
Storage
Sweet Peppers can be stored in a plastic bag in the fridge for several days.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 2-3 days
For longer term storage, both sweet and hot Peppers can be chopped and frozen.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 180 days
Most Hot peppers can be dried for storage.
Storage Req: Drying
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: 360 days
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 2-3 days
For longer term storage, both sweet and hot Peppers can be chopped and frozen.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 180 days
Most Hot peppers can be dried for storage.
Storage Req: Drying
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: 360 days
It's easy to save Pepper seed (so long as it is open pollinated and not a hybrid), just allow the fruits to ripen fully, then scrape out the seeds from the fruit before you eat it. Even the seed from green fruits may be viable, if not as good. Wear gloves when collecting seeds from hot peppers.
Though Peppers are mostly self-pollinated, they do cross-pollinate to some extent. To ensure purity you should just have one variety flowering at a time, or (if your garden is big enough) you should isolate them by 500 feet. You could also isolate them under row covers. Ideally you should have a minimum of 5 plants to ensure genetic variation.
Dry the seed thoroughly and store in a cool dry place. You must store Pepper seed carefully if it is to remain in good condition, ideally as close to freezing as possible, but not below.
Seed Viability in Years: 2 - 4 years
Germination Percentage: 55%
Though Peppers are mostly self-pollinated, they do cross-pollinate to some extent. To ensure purity you should just have one variety flowering at a time, or (if your garden is big enough) you should isolate them by 500 feet. You could also isolate them under row covers. Ideally you should have a minimum of 5 plants to ensure genetic variation.
Dry the seed thoroughly and store in a cool dry place. You must store Pepper seed carefully if it is to remain in good condition, ideally as close to freezing as possible, but not below.
Seed Viability in Years: 2 - 4 years
Germination Percentage: 55%
Culinary
Taste: The Jimmy Nardello’s pepper is sweet and light when eaten raw. It is considered one of the very best frying peppers as its fruity raw flavor becomes perfectly creamy and soft when fried.
Culinary Uses: Jimmy Nardello peppers are known best as frying peppers though they are just as flavorful when raw. Rinse peppers under cool water and dry before preparing. They can be roasted whole and peeled.
Fruit: raw or cooked. Some varieties are very hot (the chilli and cayenne peppers) and are normally used as a pungent flavoring whilst milder varieties (the sweet peppers) have a very pleasant flavor with a slight sweetness and are often eaten raw in salads etc. The dried fruits of chili and cayenne peppers is ground into a powder and used as a pungent flavoring called paprika. The powder from the dried ground fruit of some cultivars is added to food as a coloring.
Young leaves: are said to be edible but some caution is advised. They are steamed as a potherb or added to soups and stews. The leaves contain about 4 - 6% protein.
Seed: dried, ground into a powder and used as a pepper.
Flowers: raw or cooked.
Known hazards of Capsicum annuum: Pungent-fruited peppers may cause painful irritation when used in excess, or after accidental contact with the eyes. Although no reports have been seen for this species, many plants in this family produce toxins in their leaves. The sap of the plant can cause the skin to blister.
Culinary Uses: Jimmy Nardello peppers are known best as frying peppers though they are just as flavorful when raw. Rinse peppers under cool water and dry before preparing. They can be roasted whole and peeled.
Fruit: raw or cooked. Some varieties are very hot (the chilli and cayenne peppers) and are normally used as a pungent flavoring whilst milder varieties (the sweet peppers) have a very pleasant flavor with a slight sweetness and are often eaten raw in salads etc. The dried fruits of chili and cayenne peppers is ground into a powder and used as a pungent flavoring called paprika. The powder from the dried ground fruit of some cultivars is added to food as a coloring.
Young leaves: are said to be edible but some caution is advised. They are steamed as a potherb or added to soups and stews. The leaves contain about 4 - 6% protein.
Seed: dried, ground into a powder and used as a pepper.
Flowers: raw or cooked.
Known hazards of Capsicum annuum: Pungent-fruited peppers may cause painful irritation when used in excess, or after accidental contact with the eyes. Although no reports have been seen for this species, many plants in this family produce toxins in their leaves. The sap of the plant can cause the skin to blister.
Medicinal
The fruit of the hot, pungent cultivars is anti-hemorrhoidal when taken in small amounts, anti-rheumatic, anti-septic, diaphoretic, digestive, irritant, rubefacient, sialagogue and tonic. It is taken internally in the treatment of the cold stage of fevers, debility in convalescence or old age, varicose veins, asthma and digestive problems. Externally it is used in the treatment of sprains, unbroken chilblains, neuralgia, pleurisy etc. It is an effective sea-sickness preventative.
Project Purity Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting
Companions: Plant peppers near tomatoes, parsley, basil, geraniums, marjoram, lovage, petunia and carrots. Onions make an excellent companion plant for peppers. They do quite well with okra as it shelters them and protects the brittle stems from wind.
Enemies: Don't plant them near fennel or kohlrabi. They should also not be grown near apricot trees because a fungus that the pepper is prone to can cause a lot of harm to the apricot tree.
Enemies: Don't plant them near fennel or kohlrabi. They should also not be grown near apricot trees because a fungus that the pepper is prone to can cause a lot of harm to the apricot tree.
Problems
No serious insect or disease problems. Fungal and bacterial leaf spot, wilt, mosaic virus and stem/root rot may occur. Potential insect pests include aphids, white flies, cutworms, and Colorado potato beetles.
Aphids
Beneficial insects such as Ladybugs, Collops Beetle, Soldier Beetles, Long-legged Flies, Hover Flies, Predaceous Midges, Damsel Bugs, Big-eyed Bugs, Minute Pirate Bugs, Lacewings, Parasitic Wasps, Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.
Ladybeetles, Ladybugs, or Ladybird Beetles: Ladybeetles are probably the most well-known of beetles that eat aphids. There are many species, and both the adults and larvae eat aphids. Convergent lady beetles and the seven-spotted ladybeetles are abundant species in the environment. Eggs are found in clutches, yellow and football shaped. Larvae have an alligator-like appearance, and are black with orange markings. Pupae are sedentary. Ladybeetles are commercially available but purchasing is not generally recommended since the adult stage tends to fly away once released. Introductions may be more effective in greenhouses and high tunnels. Diverse plantings can help recruit resident ladybeetles to an area.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina),
Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris),
Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina),
Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris),
Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
Whiteflies
Beneficial insects such as hummingbirds, ladybugs and lacewing larvae, spiders, damsel bugs, and dragonflies all prey on Whiteflies.
Ladybeetles, Ladybugs, or Ladybird Beetles: Ladybeetles are probably the most well-known of beetles that eat aphids. There are many species, and both the adults and larvae eat aphids. Convergent lady beetles and the seven-spotted ladybeetles are abundant species in the environment. Eggs are found in clutches, yellow and football shaped. Larvae have an alligator-like appearance, and are black with orange markings. Pupae are sedentary. Ladybeetles are commercially available but purchasing is not generally recommended since the adult stage tends to fly away once released. Introductions may be more effective in greenhouses and high tunnels. Diverse plantings can help recruit resident ladybeetles to an area.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Spiders: Prey on a wide range including bed bugs, aphids, roaches, grasshoppers, cabbage looper, and fruit flies.
To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving spiders, mulch for predatory spiders.
Damsel Bugs: Prey on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Potato Beetles, and Cabbage Worms.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Dragonflies: Prey on Midges, Mosquitoes, Flies, Beetles, Moths, Whiteflies and other flying insects.
To attract Dragonflies to your garden you will need a small body of water and aquatic plants such as: eelgrass, fanwort, baby pondweed and sago pondweed.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Spiders: Prey on a wide range including bed bugs, aphids, roaches, grasshoppers, cabbage looper, and fruit flies.
To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving spiders, mulch for predatory spiders.
Damsel Bugs: Prey on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Potato Beetles, and Cabbage Worms.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Dragonflies: Prey on Midges, Mosquitoes, Flies, Beetles, Moths, Whiteflies and other flying insects.
To attract Dragonflies to your garden you will need a small body of water and aquatic plants such as: eelgrass, fanwort, baby pondweed and sago pondweed.
Cutworms
Beneficial insects such as ground beetles, tachinid flies, braconid wasps, spiders, minute pirate bugs, damsel bugs, lacewing larvae, and Birds.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Tachinid Flies: Prey on Cabbageworms, Gypsy Moths, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetle, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: carrots, dill, coriander, and buckwheat.
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Spiders: Prey on a wide range including bed bugs, aphids, roaches, grasshoppers, cabbage looper, and fruit flies.
To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving spiders, mulch for predatory spiders.
Minute Pirate Bugs: Preys on spider mites, cabbage looper, insect eggs, caterpillars, aphids, thrips
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Tachinid Flies: Prey on Cabbageworms, Gypsy Moths, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetle, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: carrots, dill, coriander, and buckwheat.
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Spiders: Prey on a wide range including bed bugs, aphids, roaches, grasshoppers, cabbage looper, and fruit flies.
To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving spiders, mulch for predatory spiders.
Minute Pirate Bugs: Preys on spider mites, cabbage looper, insect eggs, caterpillars, aphids, thrips
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Colorado Potato Beetles
Beneficial insects such as Lady Beetles, Toads, Birds, Ground Beetles, and several species of tiny Parasitic Wasps all prey on Colorado Potato Beetles.
Ladybeetles, Ladybugs, or Ladybird Beetles: Ladybeetles are probably the most well-known of beetles that eat aphids. There are many species, and both the adults and larvae eat aphids. Convergent lady beetles and the seven-spotted ladybeetles are abundant species in the environment. Eggs are found in clutches, yellow and football shaped. Larvae have an alligator-like appearance, and are black with orange markings. Pupae are sedentary. Ladybeetles are commercially available but purchasing is not generally recommended since the adult stage tends to fly away once released. Introductions may be more effective in greenhouses and high tunnels. Diverse plantings can help recruit resident ladybeetles to an area.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
Nutrition
Peppers contain vitamin C and A (Beta carotene) as well as some important detoxifying phytochemicals, including, lutein, zeaxanthin and capsaicin (the chemical that puts the Hot in Peppers). Capsaicin is most concentrated in the placenta, but as the fruit matures it seems to spread to the seeds and fruit itself. Humans can detect this fiery chemical in concentrations as low as 1 part per million. The Sweet Peppers don't contain any capsaicin (otherwise they would be Hot Peppers).
The Health Benefits of Peppers
Burn off fat: Both hot and sweet peppers may enhance weight-loss efforts. Research has shown that capsaicin—the substance that gives hot red peppers (or chilies) their kick, and boosts our metabolism—keeps immature fat cells from developing into full-fledged ones. And a study presented in April found that a compound in some sweet peppers (called CH-19 Sweet), which resembles capsaicin, provides similar positive metabolic effects—minus the burning mouth and lips.
Control cholesterol: Another benefit of capsaicin: A study in the British Journal of Nutrition showed that adding hot chilis to daily meals may protect against the buildup of cholesterol in the blood compared with eating a bland diet. (The hotter the chili, the more capsaicin.)
Keep arthritis at bay: Half a cup (125 mL) of chopped red or yellow sweet peppers has almost double your daily needs of vitamin C (green ones also contain lots). That’s a crucial nutrient: Researchers at the University of Manchester in England found that study participants who were in the lowest category of vitamin C intake had more than a three-fold increased risk of inflammatory arthritis compared to those with the highest intake.
Lower your risk of breast cancer: Toss a sliced red pepper into a salad for about a third of your daily carotenoid needs. Research reported in the International Journal of Cancer in 2009 found that premenopausal women who ate two or more servings of foods rich in carotenoids each day reduced their risk of breast cancer by 17 percent. Why? Carotenoids can interfere with estrogen’s signalling ability.
Love your heart and prevent stroke: Whether you like them hot or sweet, peppers contain lots of B vitamins. One cup (250 mL) of chopped banana pepper has 36 percent of your daily vitamin B6 and 10 percent of folate (also a B vitamin); red peppers contain 35 and seven percent, respectively; and yellow peppers, 20 and 10 percent. A Japanese study published this year looked at more than 35,000 women, age 40 to 79 years, who had completed a food-frequency questionnaire. Researchers found that the higher the dietary intakes of both folate and B6, the lower the risk of death from stroke, coronary heart disease and total cardiovascular disease for women.
Control cholesterol: Another benefit of capsaicin: A study in the British Journal of Nutrition showed that adding hot chilis to daily meals may protect against the buildup of cholesterol in the blood compared with eating a bland diet. (The hotter the chili, the more capsaicin.)
Keep arthritis at bay: Half a cup (125 mL) of chopped red or yellow sweet peppers has almost double your daily needs of vitamin C (green ones also contain lots). That’s a crucial nutrient: Researchers at the University of Manchester in England found that study participants who were in the lowest category of vitamin C intake had more than a three-fold increased risk of inflammatory arthritis compared to those with the highest intake.
Lower your risk of breast cancer: Toss a sliced red pepper into a salad for about a third of your daily carotenoid needs. Research reported in the International Journal of Cancer in 2009 found that premenopausal women who ate two or more servings of foods rich in carotenoids each day reduced their risk of breast cancer by 17 percent. Why? Carotenoids can interfere with estrogen’s signalling ability.
Love your heart and prevent stroke: Whether you like them hot or sweet, peppers contain lots of B vitamins. One cup (250 mL) of chopped banana pepper has 36 percent of your daily vitamin B6 and 10 percent of folate (also a B vitamin); red peppers contain 35 and seven percent, respectively; and yellow peppers, 20 and 10 percent. A Japanese study published this year looked at more than 35,000 women, age 40 to 79 years, who had completed a food-frequency questionnaire. Researchers found that the higher the dietary intakes of both folate and B6, the lower the risk of death from stroke, coronary heart disease and total cardiovascular disease for women.
Suggested Varieties
Amaranth: Love Lies Bleeding (Heirloom) (Amaranthus caudatus)
$1.00 - $5.60
As a decorative flower, Love-Lies-Bleeding grew in many Victorian English gardens; in the language of flowers, it represents hopeless love. In addition to producing lovely flowers, Love-Lies-Bleeding is a form of the grain-producing plant known as amaranth. A staple grain for the Aztecs and Incas, amaranth was referred to as the "golden grain of the gods" and used in religious rituals. The plant nearly died out when the Spanish Conquistadors declared their religious practices barbaric, and made growing amaranth a capital offense. Today, both the leaves and the seeds of amaranth are an important food source in many parts of the world. This unique grain provides an impressive amount of vitamins and minerals, as well as being very rich in protein.
Amaranth: Red Garnet (Heirloom) (Amaranthus tricolor)
$1.00 - $5.60
Amaranth had a sacred status in the ancient civilizations of the Aztecs and Incas, since the grain was used in various religious rituals. It remains a staple food in modern Mexico and some parts of Asia, being prepared in numerous dishes from sweet to savory. One traditional Mexican treat known as "alegria" is made with amaranth grain and honey or molasses. A super grain, amaranth can be used for gluten free flour; it also makes a complete protein when mixed with another grain. In addition, amaranth greens have a higher iron content than any other green vegetable except parsley, as well as containing many valuable vitamins and minerals.
Balm: Lemon (Melissa officinalis)
$1.00 - $5.60
Lemon balm was most likely introduced to Spain by the Moors in the 7th century; by the Middle Ages, it was common throughout Europe. Its Latin name, Melissa, means “bee” in Greek and refers to the plant's tendency to attract bees; first century Roman naturalist Pliny the Elder recommended that lemon balm be cultivated near bee hives to prevent the bees from straying. A member of the mint family, lemon balm dates back over 2,000 years for use as a medicinal herb primarily to treat stress and anxiety, insomnia, and indigestion. Eleventh century Persian physician and philosopher Avicenna wrote of the benefits of lemon balm in treating low spirits or melancholy. According to an old Arabian proverb, “Balm makes the heart merry and joyful.” According to historical record, both King Charles V of France and Emperor Charles V drank lemon balm beverages to improve their health; lemon balm was also one of the plants grown in Thomas Jefferson’s famous experimental garden. Today, herbal treatments containing lemon balm often include other calming herbs such as valerian, chamomile, and hops to encourage relaxation.
Basil: Clove Scented (Ocimum basilicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Native to India and ancient Persia, basil has a long history as one of the most revered of herbs. Ancient legends give basil a strong religious connection, stating that it possesses healing powers. In many cultures basil is a symbol of love, and given as a token of affection or engagement; other meanings include protection and truth. In Greek and Roman cultures, however, basil represented hate and misfortune; because of this, gardeners would often shout abuses at their plants to help them grow. It seems that no one could agree on the properties of basil, with divided opinions on whether it had medical benefits or whether it contained poison. Since English royalty preferred basil and used it for both culinary and cosmetic purposes, chefs sometimes call it "the king of herbs." In addition to being popular with the ruling class, basil was commonly used throughout England and loved for its scent; many people included it in their gardens, added it to their bouquets, and used it to freshen the air in their houses. Medicinally, oil of basil is often used in treatments as diverse as depression and anxiety, the common cold, a cough or sore throat, or insect bites and stings. Medicinal doses of basil are unsafe for pregnant women, though culinary use is fine.
Basil: Italian Large Leaf (Ocimum basilicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Chefs in the Neapolitan region of Italy regard this variety of sweet, Genovese-type basil as the essential type of basil for their traditional cuisine. Native to India and ancient Persia, basil has a long history as one of the most revered of herbs. Ancient legends give basil a strong religious connection, stating that it possesses healing powers. In many cultures basil is a symbol of love, and given as a token of affection or engagement; other meanings include protection and truth. In Greek and Roman cultures, however, basil represented hate and misfortune; because of this, gardeners would often shout abuses at their plants to help them grow. It seems that no one could agree on the properties of basil, with divided opinions on whether it had medical benefits or whether it contained poison. Since English royalty preferred basil and used it for both culinary and cosmetic purposes, chefs sometimes call it "the king of herbs." In addition to being popular with the ruling class, basil was commonly used throughout England and loved for its scent; many people included it in their gardens, added it to their bouquets, and used it to freshen the air in their houses. Medicinally, oil of basil is often used in treatments as diverse as depression and anxiety, the common cold, a cough or sore throat, or insect bites and stings. Medicinal doses of basil are unsafe for pregnant women, though culinary use is fine.
Basil: Lemon (Ocimum basilicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Sold out
Lemon basil comes from a cross between African basil and common basil, and is widely grown in northeastern Africa and southern Asia. Popular for its strong lemon scent, lemon basil is often found in Lao, Persian, Arabian, Indonesian and Thai cuisine. Native to India and ancient Persia, basil has a long history as one of the most revered of herbs. Ancient legends give basil a strong religious connection, stating that it possesses healing powers. In many cultures basil is a symbol of love, and given as a token of affection or engagement; other meanings include protection and truth. In Greek and Roman cultures, however, basil represented hate and misfortune; because of this, gardeners would often shout abuses at their plants to help them grow. It seems that no one could agree on the properties of basil, with divided opinions on whether it had medical benefits or whether it contained poison. Since English royalty preferred basil and used it for both culinary and cosmetic purposes, chefs sometimes call it "the king of herbs." In addition to being popular with the ruling class, basil was commonly used throughout England and loved for its scent; many people included it in their gardens, added it to their bouquets, and used it to freshen the air in their houses. Medicinally, oil of basil is often used in treatments as diverse as depression and anxiety, the common cold, a cough or sore throat, or insect bites and stings. Medicinal doses of basil are unsafe for pregnant women, though culinary use is fine.
Basil: Purple Ruffles (Ocimum basilicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Ted Torrey, once the director of the Vegetable Research at the W. Atlee Burpee & Company, developed the Purple Ruffles variety of basil. This cross between Green Ruffles and Dark Opal varieties of basil was first released in 1984, and won the AAS Award in 1987.
Basil: Spicy Bush (Ocimum basilicum var. minimum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Definitely one of the best looking basils around, Spicy Bush Basil is a must have! It not only looks good being a petite ornamental bush with small ¾” shiny leaves, but it is also very aromatic and taste fantastic in salads, pesto and much more! This fine herb will grow practically anywhere from rock gardens, herb beds, to container gardening.
Basil: Sweet (Ocimum basilicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Native to India and ancient Persia, basil has a long history as one of the most revered of herbs. Ancient legends give basil a strong religious connection, stating that it possesses healing powers. In many cultures basil is a symbol of love, and given as a token of affection or engagement; other meanings include protection and truth. In Greek and Roman cultures, however, basil represented hate and misfortune; because of this, gardeners would often shout abuses at their plants to help them grow. It seems that no one could agree on the properties of basil, with divided opinions on whether it had medical benefits or whether it contained poison. Since English royalty preferred basil and used it for both culinary and cosmetic purposes, chefs sometimes call it "the king of herbs." In addition to being popular with the ruling class, basil was commonly used throughout England and loved for its scent; many people included it in their gardens, added it to their bouquets, and used it to freshen the air in their houses. Medicinally, oil of basil is often used in treatments as diverse as depression and anxiety, the common cold, a cough or sore throat, or insect bites and stings. Medicinal doses of basil are unsafe for pregnant women, though culinary use is fine.
Bergamot: Wild (Monarda fistulosa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Butterfly attracting premier! Bursting with lavender heads of flowers, this popular perennial wildflower puts on a beautiful show! Medium to tall in height, this plant looks great planted en masse, or with other meadow dwellers. Its sweetly aromatic foliage makes it even more desirable. A classic!
Cabbage: Early Jersey Wakefield (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
$1.00 - $5.60
The first Early Jersey Wakefield cabbages were raised in 1840 by a man named Francis Brill of Jersey City, New Jersey. Thirty years later, seed companies all over the region offered this seed for sale; growers appreciated its early harvest and small, tender heads.
Caraway (Carum carvi)
$1.00 - $5.60
Possibly one of the oldest herbs, evidence of caraway has been found in the Neolithic ruins of Europe as well as in ancient Egypt. Medieval medicine recommended the use of caraway for the improvement of digestion as well as for infant colic; William Shakespeare himself made reference to the culinary use of this herb in his play Henry IV, when Falstaff is invited to "take a pippin and a dish of caraways." The flavor of caraway became extremely popular in Tudor England, especially cooked with fruit or for cakes and bread. Caraway has a well known role in the cuisine of Germany, Scandanavia, northern Africa, and various eastern European countries.
Carrots: Chantenay Red Cored (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
Introduced from France in the late 1800s. Blocky, broad-shouldered variety with blunt tip, about 5-1/2" long and 2-1/2" at the shoulder. Deep orange interior. Adaptable to clay and a wide range of soils. A versatile, good winter keeper that is quite tasty, raw or cooked. Stores well in the ground. Becomes sweeter in storage.
Carrots: Cosmic Purple (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The first mention of red, white, and purple carrots can be found in the records of both Afghanistan and Egypt. Yellow carrots, on the other hand, date back to Turkish records from the 900's. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California.
Carrots: Danvers (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The origin of carrots is somewhat obscure, but early records from many civilizations refer to this colorful root. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California. Danvers carrots in particular come from Danvers, Massachusetts, where the Eastern States Farmers Exchange introduced them in 1947.
Carrots: Rainbow Blend (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
Only a few left!
Festive Color and Flavor Mix of Purple, Yellow, Red and White Carrots is sure to delight—each with their own unique qualities. Purple has smooth skin, coreless orange flesh and is sweet and tasty. Solar Yellow holds its sunny hue inside and out, is crunchy, sweet and juicy. Lunar White is mild and delicious, and Atomic Red has high lycopene levels as well as a crispy texture that is great cooked.
Carrots: Scarlet Nantes (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The origin of carrots is somewhat obscure, but early records from many civilizations refer to this colorful root. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. The 19th century seed specialist Louis de Vilmorin introduced the French varieties of carrot such as Nantes and Chantenay, which both derive their names from their places of origin. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California.
Carrots: Tendersweet (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The origin of carrots is somewhat obscure, but early records from many civilizations refer to this colorful root. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. The Dutch were the among the first to cultivate the orange carrot; legend has it that their intent was to honor William of Orange. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California.
Chives: Garlic (Allium tuberosum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Originating in western China, garlic chives have been used in Asian cuisine for thousands of years. Unlike the traditional tubular leaves of regular chives, garlic chives have flat, narrow blades; some gardeners blanch their garlic chives, causing them to develop a pale yellow color. Traditional pad Thai, Chinese jiaozi, and various Korean dishes such as buchukimchi often contain garlic chives; they also make a popular addition to stir fries, soups, and dishes with eggs or fish. These delicately garlic scented leaves are often used more as a vegetable than an herb, and may also substitute for standard chives. Garlic chives provide abundant vitamins and minerals, including vitamin C, calcium, and iron.
Chives: Onion (Allium schoenoprasum var. album)
$1.00 - $5.60
Chives, the oldest species of edible onion known, has been used in China since about 3000 B.C. The botanical name actually comes from the Greek meaning, "reed-like leek". Chives are now grown all over the world; historical legend states that Marco Polo discovered this herb in China and brought it back to his native land. Medieval gardeners often planted chives around the borders for both decoration and to ward off harmful insects. Traditional medicinal uses, though not as common, included treatment for high cholesterol and poor digestion. Along with parsley, tarragon, and chervil, chives is included in the famous blend of herbs known as "Fines herbes." The onion-like flavor of chives makes them a traditional addition to dishes with cheese, eggs, fish, or potatoes; the flowers make a delicate herbal vinegar, in addition to being a colorful addition to salads.
Clover: Crimson (Trifolium incarnatum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Most commonly known as crimson clover, this wildflower is also called Italian or French clover in reference to it's nativity to Europe. This annual species blooms in a strawberry red, and it's delightful fragrance attracts bees by the score! A non-invasive, annual species of clover, it is often used as a cover-crop. In southern climates, plant it during your off-season, and watch the amazing results of this rich, nitrogen producing plant! The earthworms love it! Also a protein-rich forage crop for cattle and livestock, this gem of a wildflower is indispensable!
Coriander: Leisure (Coriandrum sativum)
$1.00 - $5.60
The coriander plant, whose leaves are known as cilantro, is native to the Mediterranean and Middle Easter countries; it is believed to be one of the earliest spices used by man. Early physicians such as Hippocrates used coriander primarily as an aromatic stimulant or to disguise the taste of unsavory medicines. Nearly every part of this herb has a culinary use; in Thai cuisine, the roots flavor spicy sauces, while the cilantro leaves season and garnish Chinese, Vietnamese, and Mexican dishes. The coriander seed is used in candy, specialty breads, sauces, desserts, and even perfumes. In Tudor England, coriander seeds coated with sugar were known as "comfits" and became a popular treat.
Cosmos: Bright Lights (Cosmos sulphureus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Because of their Mexican heritage, these bright annuals meet high heat and drought conditions with native beauty and vigor. Spanish conquistadors searching for gold discovered these flowers on their journeys through Mexico. Mission gardens often included these flowers, which priests gave the name “cosmos,” the Greek word for a harmonious whole, because of their neatly spaced petals. Cosmos flowers made their way to England with Spanish ambassadors in the late 18th century, and to the United States in the following century.
Cosmos: Candy Stripe (Cosmos bipinnatus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Because of their Mexican heritage, these bright annuals meet high heat and drought conditions with native beauty and vigor. Spanish conquistadors searching for gold discovered these flowers on their journeys through Mexico. Mission gardens often included these flowers, which priests gave the name “cosmos,” the Greek word for a harmonious whole, because of their neatly spaced petals. Cosmos flowers made their way to England with Spanish ambassadors in the late 18th century, and to the United States in the following century.
Cosmos: Radiance (Cosmos bipinnatus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Because of their Mexican heritage, these bright annuals meet high heat and drought conditions with native beauty and vigor. Spanish conquistadors searching for gold discovered these flowers on their journeys through Mexico. Mission gardens often included these flowers, which priests gave the name “cosmos,” the Greek word for a harmonious whole, because of their neatly spaced petals. Cosmos flowers made their way to England with Spanish ambassadors in the late 18th century, and to the United States in the following century.
Dill: Dukat (Anethum graveolens)
$1.00 - $5.60
Historical records suggest that dill has been used for medicinal purposes for over 5,000 years; its primary use was to calm the digestion and treat stomach ailments, hence its name from an old Saxon word meaning "to lull." Ancient Greek tradition suggested covering the head with dill leaves to induce sleep, while many herbal remedies from ages past recommend dill to soothe colicky babies. Traditionally, dill was thought to bring good fortune, protection, and wealth. Though the origin of dill's famous association with the pickle is not known, an 1640 recipe from the cook of England's King Charles I requires dill in its pickled cucumbers. Today, German, Greek, and Scandinavian cuisine most often include dill.
English Marigold (Calendula officinalis)
$1.00 - $5.60
This old-fashioned flower has a long history as both an ornamental garden plant and as an herb. When dried, the petals of Calendula flowers provide a culinary substitute for saffron; in times past, they were used to give a rich color to cheese or butter. Medicinal uses included treatments for measles and smallpox, as well as for dressing wounds on the battlefield. As well as being the traditional flower for October birthdays, calendula symbolizes sorrow and sympathy.
Lovage (Levisticum officinale)
$1.00 - $5.60
Lovage comes from the mountainous regions of southern Europe, primarily Italy, Greece, and France. Though its English name refers to the ancient belief in its aphrodisiac powers, it received its Latin name from a small town in Italy where the plant may have first been cultivated before the first century AD. Lovage was often used in making cordials and liqueurs, both for culinary and medicinal use; every part of the plant, including the roots and seeds, is edible. Traditional medicine makes use of this herb to improve digestion, treat fevers and sore throats, and ease cramping. Because of their excellent deodorizing qualities, the leaves have often been used as an air freshener or to freshen the breath. Though lovage can grow in the wild, it looks very similar to poison hemlock and should be carefully identified before being used for culinary purposes.
Marigolds: Naughty Marietta (Tagetes patula)
$1.00 - $5.60
For non-stop bloom until frost, there's nothing better than French marigolds. The single flowers are golden yellow with mahogany streaks, and are very attractive to bees and butterflies. Ideal for planting along borders, or among vegetables to deter pests. Also makes a perfect container plant for pots or window boxes. The deeply divided foliage forms a bushy mound up to 12 inches high.
Marigolds: Sparky Mix French (Tagetes patula)
$1.00 - $5.60
This easy-to-grow French marigold will bloom all season long. Compact mounds up to 12 inches tall will produce vivid bi-color orange and yellow flowers with an unusual form. This unique flower has wider, wavy petals that make these blossoms spectacular when planted en masse. A beautiful choice for containers as well as gardens.
Marigold: White (Tagetes Erecta 'Kilimanjaro')
$1.00 - $5.60
Commonly called African marigold, Aztec marigold, American marigold or big marigold, is native to Mexico and Central America. Big marigold may be the best descriptive name because plants are noted for their large flowerheads. They typically grow from 1-4’ tall and feature huge, mostly double-globular flowers (2-4” diameter) in various shades of yellow, orange, and whitish. This variety is unaffected by high summer heat and generally blooms throughout the summer.
Marjoram: Sweet (Origanum majorana)
$1.00 - $5.60
Marjoram can be found in the earliest records of herbs and medicines, being valued for its antiseptic properties and its warming, relaxing effects; it treats anxiety, insomnia, tension, and poor digestion. In "The Herball," published in 1597, Gerard recommends marjoram for those "given over to much sighing." Its Latin name is derived from Greek words that mean "joy of the mountains." According to Roman legend, the goddess of love, Venus, gave marjoram its scent “to remind mortals of her beauty”. This herb is said to bring happiness and warmth and banish sorrow, being traditionally used at both weddings and funerals; it also makes an excellent shrub, and was planted in English knot gardens and mazes. Its culinary use dates from the 1300s in Italy and Spain, and it became a well known herb in all of Europe by the Middle Ages. Though marjoram has been known in America since colonial times, its common use began after World War II when soldiers returned with a taste for food in the Italian style. Today, marjoram is used extensively in Greek and Mediterranean cuisine.
Mint: Pennyroyal (Mentha Pulegium)
$1.00 - $5.60
Pennyroyal, a member of the mint family, is a perennial herb that was once widely used but is not as common today. It has applications as an herbal remedy, culinary uses and as a decorative touch. Growing pennyroyal in the herb or perennial garden will add color with its lavender blooms.
Nasturtiums: Empress of India (Tropaeolum minus)
$1.00 - $5.60
These brilliant crimson flowers are set off by the deep blue-green leaves. This heirloom variety has a dwarf, bushy habit, and will self-sow. Edible blooms and leaves make a lovely garnish and bright addition to salads.
Nasturtiums: Jewel Mix (Tropaeolum minus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Cheery three-inch blooms in a lovely mix of peach, pink, yellow, orange and red bloom all summer on this dwarf nasturtium. Compact growth and bright blooms make this an ideal choice for garden beds or containers. Thrives in poor soil, and does well in cool weather. The flowers and leaves are edible, and will attract hummingbirds and butterflies as well as beneficial insects.
Okra: Clemson Spineless (Heirloom) (Abelmoschus esculentus)
$1.00 - $5.60
As the name suggests, Clemson Spineless okra was developed by the horticultural research department of Clemson University in South Carolina. Introduced in 1939, it immediately won an AAS award in that same year. Originally, okra comes from northern Africa, where it still grows wild. This unusual member of the hibiscus family still has an important part in African and Mediterranean cuisine, as well as being a culinary tradition in the American South.
Okra: Red Burgundy (Heirloom) (Abelmoschus esculentus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Red Burgundy Okra has deep crimson pods on tall stems. Gorgeous yellow flowers accented with red are a favorite of the bees. Even if you don't eat okra, this plant is worth growing! The plants are very productive and produce 6" long tender pods that lose their red color when cooked. The pods are delicious in soup, stew or gumbo.
Onions: Evergreen White Bunching (Heirlooms) (Allium fistulosum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Most likely coming from Asia, this unusual onion has a different name in nearly every country that cultivates it; spring onions, Japanese onions, Welsh onions, scallions, green onions to name only a few. The countries of eastern Asia remain on the top of the list for bunching onion production.
Onions: Ruby Red (Heirloom) (Allium cepa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Red onions originated in central Asia, and are still a favorite choice for the cuisine of east India in particular because of their bright color and pungency. Those who love red onions know that three cities on particular are known for producing them: Tropea, Italy; Wethersfield, Connecticut; and Turda, Romania.
Onions: Sweet Spanish White (Heirloom) (Allium cepa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Spain, the leading onion producer of western Europe, consumes more onions than any other European country; their cuisine cannot be Spanish without onions. The most well known sweet onions of America such as the Vidalia and Grano types have their roots in the sweet onions of Spain, such as this Sweet Spanish variety.
Onion: Sweet Spanish Yellow (Heirloom) (Allium cepa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Spain, the leading onion producer of western Europe, consumes more onions than any other European country; their cuisine cannot be Spanish without onions. The most well known sweet onions of America such as the Vidalia and Grano types have their roots in the sweet onions of Spain, such as this Sweet Spanish variety.
Parsley: Italian Giant (Heirloom) (Petroselinum crispum var. neapolitanum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Parsley has a long and colorful history, being well known in many cultures. Myths and legends abound concerning this herb, making it the symbol of such widely varying things as death, victory, and life. One colonial superstition connecting parsley with death held such power that many farmers refused to grow this herb at all. Curly leaved parsley is the most well known and commonly available herb; it contains vitamins A and C as well as other valuable antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals.
Penstemon: Rocky Mountain (Penstemon strictus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Hardy, drought tolerant, and stunningly beautiful, what more could you want? Rich indigo blooms tower high on this Beardtongue, and are loved by hummingbirds and bees. Rocky Mountain Penstemon is one of the easiest Beardtongues to grow, and has a long blooming period of about a month in the Spring. A real show stopper!
Petunia: Shanin Wild (Petunia violacea)
$1.00 - $5.60
This species is the heat loving, blossom-heavy half of the domesticated petunia. A member of the nightshade family, it has its origins as a native species of South America. Since this genus also includes the tobacco plant, the common name “petunia” comes from an obscure word for tobacco. The species name “violacea” comes from the Latin word for “violet.” This tender perennial is usually grown as an annual in cooler climates, and will reseed itself.
Poached Egg Plant (Limnanthes douglasii)
$1.00 - $5.60
This native species was first discovered by David Douglas, a Scottish botanist commissioned to collect native American plants suitable for the gardens of Great Britain. The species name "douglasii" honors his discovery, while the genus name "Limnanthes" means "marsh flower" because of this plant's preference for moist soil. This fragrant butterfly magnet has been awarded the Royal Horticultural Society's prestigious Award of Garden Merit.
Radish: Early Scarlet Globe (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Early Scarlet Globe is an early variety of radish and an favorite of many home gardeners because it matures in just 23 days! Though their exact origin is unknown, certainly have been growing in America since the late 19th century. After reviewing an assortment of the early radishes then available, the June 1913 issue of "Garden Magazine" said of Scarlet Globe, "it remains in good table condition longer than any of the early sorts mentioned above."
Radish: German Giant (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Radishes, in their early forms, come from the ancient civilizations of China, Greece, and Egypt; soon, surrounding nations also cultivated this vegetable. While the Oriental nations cultivated the large, elongated radishes, most of the round varieties such as German Giant were developed by the Dutch and the French. German Giant, as the name suggests, is an Amish heirloom that originated in Germany.
Radish: Watermelon (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
The Watermelon radish is a type of Japanese winter radish also known as a "daikon," which simply means "large root" in Japanese. Daikon radishes account for the largest percentage of any cultivated vegetable in Japan, and can be found in some form in nearly every meal of that country. Watermelon radishes, which orginated in north China near Beijing, are often served sweetened there as a dessert or fruit.
Radish: White Spear Sprouting (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
White Spear is a type of Japanese winter radish also known as a "daikon," which simply means "large root" in Japanese. Daikon radishes account for the largest percentage of any cultivated vegetable in Japan, and can be found in some form in nearly every meal of that country.
Tomato: Beefsteak (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Seed expert Peter Henderson introduced this tomato in 1894, naming it "Henderson's Crimson Cushion." Later renamed Beefsteak, it became a favorite of gardeners in the Northeast. It was developed for resistance to fusarium wilt and nematodes, as well as meaty flesh for eating fresh or cooking.
Tomato: Green Zebra (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Seed expert Tom Wagner of Everett, Washington bred Green Zebra from several green tomato varieties, including Evergreen. Since he was young, Tom had been fascinated with green tomatoes, but was disappointed with their tendency to crack. He set out to create a new green tomato, and Green Zebra was the result; he first offered it for sale in his seed catalog in 1983.
Tomato: Hillbilly (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
This multicolored heirloom tomato originates in the mountains of West Virginia. Ohio gardener Jerry Lee Bosner introduced this seed to Seed Savers Exchange for commercial use in 1994.
Tomato: Purple Cherokee (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Craig LeHoullier, a Seed Savers Exchange member, PhD chemist, and gardening enthusiast, received the seeds of Cherokee Purple in the mail from J. D. Green of Tennessee. Mr. Green stated that his neighbor had obtained the seed from Cherokee Indians in the area, who had developed this variety and grown it for generations. LeHoullier, being greatly impressed with the purple tomatoes, sent them to Southern Exposure Seed Exchange and Johnny's Seeds, who both began to produce them commercially in 1991. Cherokee Purple, in addition to the famous Brandywine tomatoes, caused the popularity of old fashioned heirloom varieties of tomato.
Tomato: Sweetie Cherry (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
The Heirloom Sweetie Cherry Tomato has a firm texture and was produced for commercial sale in 1980. These succulent fruits can grow up to 1" in diameter, and even though they aren't very big, they still have incredibly high sugar content.
Tomato: Yellow Pear (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
History well documents the Yellow Pear tomato, indicating the presence of this variety in Europe as early as the 17th century. The earliest known reference to this heirloom in North America comes from the sale records of the Hudson Bay Company in Vancouver, Canada. Numerous heirloom seed companies in the United States still offer Yellow Pear as an unusual, delicious little tomato.
Yarrow: Red (Achillea millefolium rubra)
$1.00 - $5.60
Native to Southern Europe, yarrow has been a traditional part of herb gardens for hundreds of years because of its fragrant foliage and cheerful, long lasting flowers. Yarrow can often be found in fields, along roads, or on rocky hillsides. Linnaeus named it for Greek general Achilles, who according to legend received yarrow as a gift from the gods; the general’s soldiers used yarrow to stanch the flow of their blood in the battlefields of the Trojan War. In the early days of the American prairies, Native American tribes such as the Pawnee, Cherokee, and Chippewa used common yarrow to relieve pain and headaches, reduce fever, and induce sleep. When taken internally as a tea, yarrow purifies the system and has anti-inflammatory benefits. Cosmetic preparations sometimes include yarrow because of its cleansing, refreshing effect. Medicinal use of yarrow is not recommended for expectant mothers.
Yarrow: White (Achillea millefolium)
$1.00 - $5.60
Native to Southern Europe, yarrow has been a traditional part of herb gardens for hundreds of years because of its fragrant foliage and cheerful, long lasting flowers. Yarrow can often be found in fields, along roads, or on rocky hillsides. Linnaeus named it for Greek general Achilles, who according to legend received yarrow as a gift from the gods; the general’s soldiers used yarrow to stanch the flow of their blood in the battlefields of the Trojan War. In the early days of the American prairies, Native American tribes such as the Pawnee, Cherokee, and Chippewa used common yarrow to relieve pain and headaches, reduce fever, and induce sleep. When taken internally as a tea, yarrow purifies the system and has anti-inflammatory benefits. Cosmetic preparations sometimes include yarrow because of its cleansing, refreshing effect. Medicinal use of yarrow is not recommended for expectant mothers.