Gourd: Speckled Swan (Heirloom) (Cucurbita pepo)
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General Information
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Soil Preparation & Start Indoors
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Transplant Outdoors & Start Outdoors
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Crop Care
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Harvesting & Storage
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Seed Saving
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Culinary
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Companion Planting
Ease of Growing: Easy
Grown as: Annual
Days to Maturity: 120 (Spring/Summer)
Growing Habit: Vine
Hardiness: Tender. Gourds are quite frost tender and cannot be planted until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up. Don't put them out before the temperature reaches 65˚ F daily.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Summer
Growing Season: Long
Growing Conditions: Warm, Hot. Gourds are sprawling plants, notorious for taking up a lot of room; so its best not to plant them in the middle of the intensive garden. They take a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages, but then of course they cast a considerable amount of shade. Generally it is best to plant them in hills at the edge of the garden and let them run off into unused space. The site of an old compost pile by a wire fence is perfect. Once established they can compete with almost any plant, so long as their roots are in good soil and they are well fed and watered.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 60°F - 90°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 65°F. Don’t plant out until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up, about when the temperature reaches 65° F daily (when the Apple trees blossom.)
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes. Light. Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Warm, Hot)
Water: Moderate. The plants need an evenly moist soil for maximum productivity. The best way to water Squash is in the morning with a soaker hose or drip irrigation, as wet foliage can easily lead to fungal diseases, especially with cooler nighttime temperatures. Water moderately early in development and heavier after fruits form.
Feeder: Heavy. High nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Gourds have a very vigorous root system, which may go down 6' in its search for nutrients.
Suitability: High heat, Needs lots of space
Small Gardens?: No
Containers?: Yes. Grow in a container that is at least 24” in diameter. Keep plants well watered and fed in the container.
Attracts beneficial insects?: Yes. Gourd flowers attract bees, butterflies, and pollinating moths.
Height: 12-16"
Spacing: 24-30", (1 per 2'x2')
Sow Depth: 1/2-2”
USDA Hardiness Zones: 3-11
Produces: Several 12-16" beautiful green, with yellowish white, curvy, swan shaped gourds.
Soil Preparation
Soil pH: 6.0-7.0, Ideal 6.3-6.5: Gourd is a hungry and fast growing crop that produces a lot of biomass. To do this it needs a well drained, moisture retentive, fertile soil, with lots of organic matter. It doesn't do well on acid or saline soils.
Soil Preparation:
Standard Mix, 1 cup per plant, in top 6" of soil, 1 time: A cup of standard mix per plant will supply any additional nutrients required. Incorporate it into the soil with the compost. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
- 4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
- 2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
- 2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
- 1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
- 1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Compost (Nitrogen), 2", in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Gourd have a very vigorous root system, which may go down 6 feet in its search for nutrients. Add 2˝ of compost or aged manure to the top 6˝ of soil, to supply nutrients and to increase the ability of the soil to hold moisture.
Start Indoors
Soil temp for germination: 65°F to 100°F, optimal 80°F to 95°F, optimal 86°F.
Total weeks to grow transplant: 7 to 8 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter).
Germinate:
1 weeks before Last Frost Date: Gourd is usually started indoors, because spring growing weather is often less than ideal and by starting indoors you have stocky little plants ready to put outside. This is better than having to wait for seed to germinate in cold soil. Cucurbits in general dislike transplanting, so start them in individual containers. I like to use 4˝ pots as they allow you some time before the seedlings must be planted out. If containers are smaller than this you may have to pot them up before planting out, which is an additional chore. Plant two seeds in each pot. After they have both emerged, you should remove the inferior one (pinch it off to avoid disturbing the remaining one).
Harden Off: 1-2 weeks after Last Frost Date. Allow the starts to adjust to outdoor temperatures. Place outside for one week before transplanting into their bed.
Transplant Outdoors
1. Plant them as deep as their first true leaves. If cold weather threatens to return, you can cover them with cloches.
Warm, Hot: Gourds are sprawling plants, notorious for taking up a lot of room; so its best not to plant them in the middle of the intensive garden. They take a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages, but then of course they cast a considerable amount of shade. Generally it is best to plant them in hills at the edge of the garden and let them run off into unused space. The site of an old compost pile by a wire fence is perfect. Once established they can compete with almost any plant, so long as their roots are in good soil and they are well fed and watered.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F.
When min soil temp: 70°F. Don’t plant out until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up, about when the temperature reaches 65° F daily (when the Apple trees blossom.)
Spacing: 24.0"-30.0", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft Plant 4 seedlings per mound or hill, spaced 3' apart. Thin to best 2 - 3 seedlings per mound.
Intensive beds: Gourds grow into big plants that need a lot of space. They are spaced 24" apart. You could plant your Squash down the center of the bed and fill in the rest of the space with a fast growing crop. This plant is an excellent contender for vertical gardening.
Because gourds spread out, it's a good idea to plant at the edge of the garden, where they have minimal impact on their neighbors. The vining types can then wander off into vacant space.
Support: Optional. The vine takes up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages and will be less susceptible to pests and diseases. A wire fence can work great. This is optional, though, and not necessary.
Start Outdoors
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 65°F. Don’t plant out until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up, about when the temperature reaches 65° F daily (when the Apple trees blossom.)
Seed Depth: 0.5"-2.0". Plant 1/2" in cold soil, and up to 2" in warm soil (where it is more moist).
Spacing: 24"-30", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. Intensive beds: Gourds grow into big plants that need a lot of space. They are spaced 24" apart. You could plant your Squash down the center of the bed and fill in the rest of the space with a fast growing crop. This plant is an excellent contender for vertical gardening.
Because gourds spread out, it's a good idea to plant at the edge of the garden, where they have minimal impact on their neighbors. The vining types can then wander off into vacant space.
Hills: Plant 3 to 5 seeds, an inch deep, in each hill and thin to the best two when they have all germinated.
Support: Optional. The vine takes up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages and will be less susceptible to pests and diseases. A wire fence can work great. This is optional, though, and not necessary.
Water Needs: Moderate. The plants need an evenly moist soil for maximum productivity. The best way to water Squash is in the morning with a soaker hose or drip irrigation, as wet foliage can easily lead to fungal diseases, especially with cooler nighttime temperatures. Water moderately early in development and heavier after fruits form.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. High nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Gourds have a very vigorous root system, which may go down 6' in its search for nutrients.
Watering, regularly: Water, 3 quarts, regularly, 2 times a week. The plants need an evenly moist soil for maximum productivity. The best way to water gourds is in the morning with a soaker hose or drip irrigation, as wet foliage can easily lead to fungus diseases, especially with cooler nighttime temperatures. Water moderately early in development and heavier after fruits form.
Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, regularly: Compost tea, 1 quart, regularly, every 3 weeks. Give each plant 1 quart of liquid kelp or compost tea every 2 to 4 weeks. Stop fertilizing at least one week before harvest.
Protecting, when 3" tall: Mulch 2", when 3" tall, 1 time. A mulch is helpful with these widely spaced plants, to keep down weeds and conserve moisture.
Watering, during fruit production: Water, 1 gallon(s) per plant, during fruit production, 2 times a week. The plants need an evenly moist soil for maximum productivity. The best way to water gourds is in the morning with a soaker hose or drip irrigation, as wet foliage can easily lead to fungus diseases, especially with cooler nighttime temperatures. Water moderately early in development and heavier after fruits form.
Support: Optional. The vine takes up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages and will be less susceptible to pests and diseases. A wire fence can work great. This is optional, though, and not necessary.
Harvesting
When and How: Whole Fruit, 1-28 days after maturity.
When: Harvest when gourd turns pale, gently cutting the stem.
How: Cut the gourd from the stem with a sharp knife. Carefully rinse in a 9:1 bleach solution and hang in a warm, dry location until the seeds rattle, usually 3-4 weeks.
Storage
Storage Req: Drying
Storage Temp: 60-70°F
Storage Length: 180-360 days
Seed Viability in Years: 4 - 5 Years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Not to be eaten.
Culinary Use:
Gourds are mainly used for decorative purposes, but some can be eaten.
Companion Planting
Companions: Radish will help drive off beetles. Catnip deters flea beetles, aphids, Japanese beetles, squash bugs, ants, weevils and mice. Dill attracts hover flies and predatory wasps. Repels aphids and spider mites to some degree.
Nasturtiums deter aphids, squash bugs, and striped pumpkin beetles. Deters wooly aphids, white flies, cucumber beetles and other pests of the cucurbit family. French Marigolds keeps soil free of nematodes and deters many insects. Attracts red spider mite and slugs.
Enemies: Keep away from Nightshade.
Problems
Aphids
Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos,
Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two
abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow
(Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), \Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet
alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley
(Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa
daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white
sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
Cucumber Beetles
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Spiders: Prey on a wide range including bed bugs, aphids, roaches, grasshoppers, cabbage looper, and fruit flies.
To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving spiders, mulch for predatory spiders.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Squash Bugs
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: carrots, dill, coriander, and buckwheat.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Cutworms
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Spiders: Prey on a wide range including bed bugs, aphids, roaches, grasshoppers, cabbage looper, and fruit flies.
To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving spiders, mulch for predatory spiders.
Minute Pirate Bugs: Preys on spider mites, cabbage looper, insect eggs, caterpillars, aphids, thrips
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Damsel Bugs: Prey on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Potato Beetles, and Cabbage Worms.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
Suggested Varieties
Angelica (Angelica atropurpurea)
Angelica is perennial native that stands 3-8' tall and is commonly found in woodlands and swampy areas near streams and rivers. It produces large, pale to dark purple hollow stems, with ¾-4½" long, medium to dark green sub leaflets. Being both edible and medicinal, this plant surely has a lot of offer any garden.
Balm: Lemon (Melissa officinalis)
Bergamot: Wild (Monarda fistulosa)
Broccoli: Green Sprouting Calabrese (Organic) (Brassica oleracea var. italica)
Broccoli: Purple Sprouting (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. italica)
Broccoli: Waltham 29 (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. italica)
Caraway (Carum carvi)
Catnip (Nepeta cataria)
Chives: Garlic (Allium tuberosum)
Chives: Onion (Allium schoenoprasum var. album)
Coriander: Leisure (Coriandrum sativum)
Cosmos: Bright Lights (Cosmos sulphureus)
Cosmos: Candy Stripe (Cosmos bipinnatus)
Cosmos: Radiance (Cosmos bipinnatus)
Dill: Dukat (Anethum graveolens)
English Marigold (Calendula officinalis)
Fennel: Florence (Foeniculum vulgare var. azoricum)
Marigolds: Naughty Marietta (Tagetes patula)
Marigolds: Sparky Mix French (Tagetes patula)
Marigold: White (Tagetes Erecta 'Kilimanjaro')
Commonly called African marigold, Aztec marigold, American marigold or big marigold, is native to Mexico and Central America. Big marigold may be the best descriptive name because plants are noted for their large flowerheads. They typically grow from 1-4’ tall and feature huge, mostly double-globular flowers (2-4” diameter) in various shades of yellow, orange, and whitish. This variety is unaffected by high summer heat and generally blooms throughout the summer.
Milkweed: Blood Flower (Asclepias curassavica)
Milkweed: Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa)
Milkweed: Common (Asclepias syriaca)
Milkweed: Showy (Asclepias speciosa)
Milkweed: Swamp (Asclepias incarnata)
As the name indicates, these swamp milkweed seeds for sale thrive in swamps and low meadows or along streams. The bright pink flowers attract swarms of bees and butterflies, and have a sweet scent described as similar to vanilla or cinnamon. At one time, the silk from swamp milkweed seed pods was spun for fabric or used for stuffing pillows; in World War II, school children gathered the silk to provide a cheap filling for soldiers' life jackets. Commercial attempts to make use of this abundant plant included the manufacture of paper, fabric, lubricant, fuel, and rubber; eventually these became impractical and were abandoned. Though this plant is toxic to most animals, butterflies are immune to the plant's poison and actually become rather poisonous themselves as protection from predators.
Mint: Pennyroyal (Mentha Pulegium)
Nasturtiums: Empress of India (Tropaeolum minus)
Nasturtiums: Jewel Mix (Tropaeolum minus)
Parsley: Italian Giant (Heirloom) (Petroselinum crispum var. neapolitanum)
Penstemon: Rocky Mountain (Penstemon strictus)
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Poached Egg Plant (Limnanthes douglasii)
This native species was first discovered by David Douglas, a Scottish botanist commissioned to collect native American plants suitable for the gardens of Great Britain. The species name "douglasii" honors his discovery, while the genus name "Limnanthes" means "marsh flower" because of this plant's preference for moist soil. This fragrant butterfly magnet has been awarded the Royal Horticultural Society's prestigious Award of Garden Merit.
Radish: Early Scarlet Globe (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
Radish: French Breakfast (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
Radish: German Giant (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
Radish: Watermelon (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
The Watermelon radish is a type of Japanese winter radish also known as a "daikon," which simply means "large root" in Japanese. Daikon radishes account for the largest percentage of any cultivated vegetable in Japan, and can be found in some form in nearly every meal of that country. Watermelon radishes, which orginated in north China near Beijing, are often served sweetened there as a dessert or fruit.