Pumpkin: La Estrella (F1 Hybrid) Treated (Cucurbita moschata Duchesne)
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La Estrella Pumpkin is a annual native that is a member of the Cucurbita Family. It was bred by Dr. Don Maynard at the University of Florida. La Estrella matures in 70 days in tropical regions such as Florida, and 125 days in the temperate north. It produces 3-4 pumpkins per plant that have orange backgrounds, with tan and green blotches, and weigh 6-12 lbs. each. This pumpkin is often used in the World Championship Punkin Chunkin Association.
Scientific Name: Cucurbita moschata Duchesne
Also Known As: Calabaza, Calabash or Cuban pumpkin.
Grown as: Annual
Maturity: 70 days (Southern), 125 days (Northern)
Growing Habit: Vine
Hardiness: Tender. Pumpkins are quite frost tender and can't be planted until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up. Don't put them out before the temperature reaches 65˚ F daily.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Summer
Growing Season: Long
Growing Conditions: Warm, Hot. Pumpkins are sprawling plants, notorious for taking up a lot of room; so do not plant them in the middle of the intensive garden. They occupy a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages, but then of course they cast a considerable amount of shade. Generally it is best to plant them in hills at the edge of the garden and let them run off into unused space. The site of an old compost pile by a wire fence is perfect. Once established they can compete with almost any plant, so long as their roots are in good soil and they are well fed and watered.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 60°F - 90°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 65°F. Don’t plant out until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up and the temperature reaches 65° F daily (when the Apple trees blossom.)
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Warm, Hot). Full sun.
Water: High. The plants need an evenly moist soil for maximum productivity. The best way to water Pumpkin is with drip irrigation, or a soaker hose used near the soil, as wet foliage can easily lead to fungus diseases.
Feeder: Heavy. High nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Pumpkin have a very vigorous root system, which may dig 6' underground in its search for nutrients.
Suitability: High heat, Needs lots of space
Small Gardens?: No
Containers?: No
Attracts beneficial insects?: Yes. Pumpkin flowers attract bees, birds, and butterflies.
Forage: Rabbits.
Height: 10'
Sow Depth: 1/2"
Spacing: 18-24"
Produces: 3-4 pumpkins per plant that have orange backgrounds, with tan and green blotches, and weigh 6-12 lbs. each.
USDA Hardiness Zones: 3-12
Treatment: These seeds are treated with thiram as a fungicide, ectoparasiticide to prevent fungal diseases in seed and crops and similarly as an animal repellent to protect fruit trees and ornamentals from damage by rabbits, rodents and deer.
Also Known As: Calabaza, Calabash or Cuban pumpkin.
Grown as: Annual
Maturity: 70 days (Southern), 125 days (Northern)
Growing Habit: Vine
Hardiness: Tender. Pumpkins are quite frost tender and can't be planted until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up. Don't put them out before the temperature reaches 65˚ F daily.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Summer
Growing Season: Long
Growing Conditions: Warm, Hot. Pumpkins are sprawling plants, notorious for taking up a lot of room; so do not plant them in the middle of the intensive garden. They occupy a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages, but then of course they cast a considerable amount of shade. Generally it is best to plant them in hills at the edge of the garden and let them run off into unused space. The site of an old compost pile by a wire fence is perfect. Once established they can compete with almost any plant, so long as their roots are in good soil and they are well fed and watered.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 60°F - 90°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 65°F. Don’t plant out until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up and the temperature reaches 65° F daily (when the Apple trees blossom.)
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Warm, Hot). Full sun.
Water: High. The plants need an evenly moist soil for maximum productivity. The best way to water Pumpkin is with drip irrigation, or a soaker hose used near the soil, as wet foliage can easily lead to fungus diseases.
Feeder: Heavy. High nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Pumpkin have a very vigorous root system, which may dig 6' underground in its search for nutrients.
Suitability: High heat, Needs lots of space
Small Gardens?: No
Containers?: No
Attracts beneficial insects?: Yes. Pumpkin flowers attract bees, birds, and butterflies.
Forage: Rabbits.
Height: 10'
Sow Depth: 1/2"
Spacing: 18-24"
Produces: 3-4 pumpkins per plant that have orange backgrounds, with tan and green blotches, and weigh 6-12 lbs. each.
USDA Hardiness Zones: 3-12
Treatment: These seeds are treated with thiram as a fungicide, ectoparasiticide to prevent fungal diseases in seed and crops and similarly as an animal repellent to protect fruit trees and ornamentals from damage by rabbits, rodents and deer.
Soil Preparation
Soil Preference:
Soil pH: 6.0-7.0, Ideal 6.3-6.5. These are quite hungry plants and need a soil that is loose, fertile, moisture retentive and rich in organic matter. They dislike saline or acidic soils.
Soil Preparation:
Compost (Nitrogen), 2", in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Add 2" of compost, or aged manure, to the top 6˝ of soil, to supply nutrients and to increase the ability of the soil to hold moisture. If the soil is poor you can plant into individually amended holes (you won’t need many). You might also plant in hills, by digging a hole 12˝ deep by 24˝ wide and half filling it with compost. Return all of the soil to the hole to form a small mound or hill.
Standard Mix, 1 cup per plant, in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Standard Mix will supply any additional nutrients and should be incorporated into the top 6˝ of soil for each planting, along with the compost. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Soil pH: 6.0-7.0, Ideal 6.3-6.5. These are quite hungry plants and need a soil that is loose, fertile, moisture retentive and rich in organic matter. They dislike saline or acidic soils.
Soil Preparation:
Compost (Nitrogen), 2", in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Add 2" of compost, or aged manure, to the top 6˝ of soil, to supply nutrients and to increase the ability of the soil to hold moisture. If the soil is poor you can plant into individually amended holes (you won’t need many). You might also plant in hills, by digging a hole 12˝ deep by 24˝ wide and half filling it with compost. Return all of the soil to the hole to form a small mound or hill.
Standard Mix, 1 cup per plant, in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Standard Mix will supply any additional nutrients and should be incorporated into the top 6˝ of soil for each planting, along with the compost. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
- 4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
- 2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
- 2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
- 1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
- 1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Start Indoors
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 2.0". Plant 1/2" in cold soil, and up to 2" in warm soil (where it is more moist).
Soil temp for germination: 65°F to 100°F, optimal 80°F to 95°F, optimal 86°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 14 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 1-2 weeks before last frost date. Pumpkins are usually started indoors, because spring growing weather is often less than ideal and by starting indoors you have stocky little plants ready to put outside. This is better than having to wait for seed to germinate in cold soil.
1. The plants dislike root disturbance, so use 4˝ pots as they allow you some time before the seedlings must be planted out. Plant two seeds in each pot. After they have both emerged, you should remove the inferior one (pinch it off to avoid disturbing the remaining one).
Harden Off: 1-2 weeks after last frost date. Allow the starts to adjust to outdoor temperatures. Place outside for one week before transplanting into their bed.
Soil temp for germination: 65°F to 100°F, optimal 80°F to 95°F, optimal 86°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 14 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 1-2 weeks before last frost date. Pumpkins are usually started indoors, because spring growing weather is often less than ideal and by starting indoors you have stocky little plants ready to put outside. This is better than having to wait for seed to germinate in cold soil.
1. The plants dislike root disturbance, so use 4˝ pots as they allow you some time before the seedlings must be planted out. Plant two seeds in each pot. After they have both emerged, you should remove the inferior one (pinch it off to avoid disturbing the remaining one).
Harden Off: 1-2 weeks after last frost date. Allow the starts to adjust to outdoor temperatures. Place outside for one week before transplanting into their bed.
Transplant Outdoors
2-3 weeks after last frost date: It’s important to plant Pumpkins out as soon as they have 3 leaves. Don’t delay as they will quickly outgrow their pots and get root-bound.
1. Plant them 2" deep
2. Plant them for trellises, hills, or on the ground, left to sprawl.
In hot weather the best ‘hills’ are actually slight depressions, so water moves towards the plants, rather than away from them.
Warm, Hot: Pumpkins are sprawling plants, notorious for taking up a lot of room; so do not plant them in the middle of the intensive garden. They occupy a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages, but then of course they cast a considerable amount of shade. Generally it is best to plant them in hills at the edge of the garden and let them run off into unused space. The site of an old compost pile by a wire fence is perfect. Once established they can compete with almost any plant, so long as their roots are in good soil and they are well fed and watered.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 65°F. Don’t plant out until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up and the temperature reaches 65° F daily (when the Apple trees blossom.)
Spacing: 12-48", (1 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Pumpkins sprawl so much they are usually grown in hills. Sow 2-3 seeds every 2-4' in rows 3-6' apart when danger of frost has passed. Thin to one plant. Can also be sown indoors 2-4 weeks before last frost and transplanted very carefully onto mounds with 2 seedlings per mound.
Support: Optional. The vine takes up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages. A wire fence can work great. This is optional, though, and not necessary (unlike support for Peas Vines or Tomatoes).
1. Plant them 2" deep
2. Plant them for trellises, hills, or on the ground, left to sprawl.
In hot weather the best ‘hills’ are actually slight depressions, so water moves towards the plants, rather than away from them.
Warm, Hot: Pumpkins are sprawling plants, notorious for taking up a lot of room; so do not plant them in the middle of the intensive garden. They occupy a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages, but then of course they cast a considerable amount of shade. Generally it is best to plant them in hills at the edge of the garden and let them run off into unused space. The site of an old compost pile by a wire fence is perfect. Once established they can compete with almost any plant, so long as their roots are in good soil and they are well fed and watered.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 65°F. Don’t plant out until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up and the temperature reaches 65° F daily (when the Apple trees blossom.)
Spacing: 12-48", (1 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Pumpkins sprawl so much they are usually grown in hills. Sow 2-3 seeds every 2-4' in rows 3-6' apart when danger of frost has passed. Thin to one plant. Can also be sown indoors 2-4 weeks before last frost and transplanted very carefully onto mounds with 2 seedlings per mound.
Support: Optional. The vine takes up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages. A wire fence can work great. This is optional, though, and not necessary (unlike support for Peas Vines or Tomatoes).
Start Outdoors
When Warm, Hot: Pumpkins are sprawling plants, notorious for taking up a lot of room; so do not plant them in the middle of the intensive garden. They occupy a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages, but then of course they cast a considerable amount of shade. Generally it is best to plant them in hills at the edge of the garden and let them run off into unused space. The site of an old compost pile by a wire fence is perfect. Once established they can compete with almost any plant, so long as their roots are in good soil and they are well fed and watered.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 65°F. Don’t plant out until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up and the temperature reaches 65° F daily (when the Apple trees blossom.)
Seed Depth: 0.5"-2.0". Plant 1/2" in cold soil, and up to 2" in warm soil (where it is more moist).
Spacing: 12-48", (1 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Pumpkins sprawl so much they are usually grown in hills. Sow 2-3 seeds every 2-4' in rows 3-6' apart when danger of frost has passed. Thin to one plant. Can also be sown indoors 2-4 weeks before last frost and transplanted very carefully onto mounds with 2 seedlings per mound.
Summer Crop: 3-10 weeks after last frost date. Pumpkin grow fast in warm soil and will often catch up with plants started indoors. Don’t plant them out until the soil is warm enough (60° F minimum) or they may simply rot in the cold ground.
1. Plant them 2" deep
2. Plant them for trellises, hiils, or on the ground, left to sprawl.
You can warm the soil with black plastic to get them off to a good start and protect them until the weather gets warmer. You could also pre-sprout the seed before planting. You only plant Pumpkin once in a year, so do it properly.
Hills: Plant 3-5 seeds, an inch deep, in each hill and thin to the best two when they have all germinated. These are spaced 4-6' apart, depending on the variety and the fertility of the soil. In hot weather the best ‘hills’ are actually slight depressions, so water moves towards the plants, rather than away from them. If they are to be trained to grow up supports they can be grown closer together, perhaps as close as 30˝ apart.
Support: Optional. The vine takes up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages. A wire fence can work great. This is optional, though, and not necessary (unlike support for Peas Vines or Tomatoes).
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 65°F. Don’t plant out until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up and the temperature reaches 65° F daily (when the Apple trees blossom.)
Seed Depth: 0.5"-2.0". Plant 1/2" in cold soil, and up to 2" in warm soil (where it is more moist).
Spacing: 12-48", (1 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Pumpkins sprawl so much they are usually grown in hills. Sow 2-3 seeds every 2-4' in rows 3-6' apart when danger of frost has passed. Thin to one plant. Can also be sown indoors 2-4 weeks before last frost and transplanted very carefully onto mounds with 2 seedlings per mound.
Summer Crop: 3-10 weeks after last frost date. Pumpkin grow fast in warm soil and will often catch up with plants started indoors. Don’t plant them out until the soil is warm enough (60° F minimum) or they may simply rot in the cold ground.
1. Plant them 2" deep
2. Plant them for trellises, hiils, or on the ground, left to sprawl.
You can warm the soil with black plastic to get them off to a good start and protect them until the weather gets warmer. You could also pre-sprout the seed before planting. You only plant Pumpkin once in a year, so do it properly.
Hills: Plant 3-5 seeds, an inch deep, in each hill and thin to the best two when they have all germinated. These are spaced 4-6' apart, depending on the variety and the fertility of the soil. In hot weather the best ‘hills’ are actually slight depressions, so water moves towards the plants, rather than away from them. If they are to be trained to grow up supports they can be grown closer together, perhaps as close as 30˝ apart.
Support: Optional. The vine takes up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages. A wire fence can work great. This is optional, though, and not necessary (unlike support for Peas Vines or Tomatoes).
Pumpkins are quite frost tender and can't be planted until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up. These are vigorous and robust plants. If they are well fed and watered, they can compete with almost any plant.
Water Needs: High. The plants need an evenly moist soil for maximum productivity. The best way to water Pumpkin is with drip irrigation, or a soaker hose used near the soil, as wet foliage can easily lead to fungus diseases.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. High nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Pumpkin have a very vigorous root system, which may dig 6' underground in its search for nutrients.
Watering, regularly: Water, 1 gallon(s) per plant, regularly, 2 times a week. Keep the soil evenly moist for best growth. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, regularly: Compost tea, 1 quart(s), regularly, every 3 weeks. Give the plants a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed) every 2 to 4 weeks.
Protecting, when 3" tall: Mulch, 2", when 3" tall, 1 time. These tender plants will be killed by freezing temperatures. If an early frost threatens cover them with mulch or frost blankets for protection. Mulch is helpful with these widely spaced plants, to keep down weeds and conserve moisture.
Weeding, up to early fruit set: up to early fruit set, 1 time a week. You need to keep the young plants weeded. Once they get going they are vigorous enough to look after themselves. Their broad leaves effectively block out upcoming weeds from sunlight.
Watering, up to early fruit set: Water, 3 quart(s), up to early fruit set, 2 times a week. Keep the plants well watered. Watering depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Pruning, during fruit production: during fruit production, 1 time. If you remove some of the fruit it will allow the plant to put all its energy into those remaining and they will get bigger. This is especially important for the giant pumpkin varieties, such as Big Max and and Wyatt's Wonder.
Support: Optional. The vine takes up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages. A wire fence can work great. This is optional, though, and not necessary (unlike support for Peas Vines or Tomatoes).
Water Needs: High. The plants need an evenly moist soil for maximum productivity. The best way to water Pumpkin is with drip irrigation, or a soaker hose used near the soil, as wet foliage can easily lead to fungus diseases.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. High nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Pumpkin have a very vigorous root system, which may dig 6' underground in its search for nutrients.
Watering, regularly: Water, 1 gallon(s) per plant, regularly, 2 times a week. Keep the soil evenly moist for best growth. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, regularly: Compost tea, 1 quart(s), regularly, every 3 weeks. Give the plants a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed) every 2 to 4 weeks.
Protecting, when 3" tall: Mulch, 2", when 3" tall, 1 time. These tender plants will be killed by freezing temperatures. If an early frost threatens cover them with mulch or frost blankets for protection. Mulch is helpful with these widely spaced plants, to keep down weeds and conserve moisture.
Weeding, up to early fruit set: up to early fruit set, 1 time a week. You need to keep the young plants weeded. Once they get going they are vigorous enough to look after themselves. Their broad leaves effectively block out upcoming weeds from sunlight.
Watering, up to early fruit set: Water, 3 quart(s), up to early fruit set, 2 times a week. Keep the plants well watered. Watering depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Pruning, during fruit production: during fruit production, 1 time. If you remove some of the fruit it will allow the plant to put all its energy into those remaining and they will get bigger. This is especially important for the giant pumpkin varieties, such as Big Max and and Wyatt's Wonder.
Support: Optional. The vine takes up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages. A wire fence can work great. This is optional, though, and not necessary (unlike support for Peas Vines or Tomatoes).
Harvesting
Ripening: Harvest when stems begin to shrivel or you can no longer pierce the skin with a thumbnail, but be sure to harvest before the first hard frost. For immediate use, harvest when the skin loses its sheen.
Storage
Cure for 2 weeks in a warm place (80 to 90° F) and then store at around 50 to 60° F and 60 to 70% humidity. They may last 6 months or more in storage, which is why they were once important for self-sufficient farmers.
Storage Req: Cool
Storage Temp: 50-60°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Storage Req: Cool
Storage Temp: 50-60°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
By the time the pumpkin has been cured, the seeds are mature. Cut the pumpkin open, remove the pulp and seeds, and rinse off the pulp. Put the mixture in a bowl of water to remove the remaining pulp; the good seeds will sink. Remove the good seeds and spread them out to dry for 2-3 weeks, stirring them at times to make sure they dry completely. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place for up to 4 years.
Seed Viability in Years: 3-5 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Seed Viability in Years: 3-5 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary
Taste: slightly sweet, with fine nutty flavor.
Culinary Use:
Fruit: cooked. Used as a vegetable in pies etc, it can be stored for up to 6 months. Generally the fruit is fibrousy, watery and less richly flavored than C. maxima., C. moschata. and C. pepo. The flesh can be dried, ground into a powder and mixed with cereals for making bread, cakes etc. The fruit is up to 20 cm in diameter.
Seed: raw, roasted or dried, ground into a powder and mixed with cereals when making bread etc. The seed is rich in oil and has a pleasant nutty flavor. Although relatively large, they are very fiddly to use because they are covered with a fibrous coat. An edible oil is obtained from the seed.
Leaves: cooked.
Flowers: cooked.
Known hazards: The sprouting seed produces a toxic substance in its embryo.
Culinary Use:
Fruit: cooked. Used as a vegetable in pies etc, it can be stored for up to 6 months. Generally the fruit is fibrousy, watery and less richly flavored than C. maxima., C. moschata. and C. pepo. The flesh can be dried, ground into a powder and mixed with cereals for making bread, cakes etc. The fruit is up to 20 cm in diameter.
Seed: raw, roasted or dried, ground into a powder and mixed with cereals when making bread etc. The seed is rich in oil and has a pleasant nutty flavor. Although relatively large, they are very fiddly to use because they are covered with a fibrous coat. An edible oil is obtained from the seed.
Leaves: cooked.
Flowers: cooked.
Known hazards: The sprouting seed produces a toxic substance in its embryo.
Medicinal
The pumpkin has been much used as a medicine in Central and North America. It is a gentle and safe remedy for a number of complaints, especially as an effective tapeworm remover for children and pregnant women for whom stronger acting and toxic remedies are unsuitable. The seeds are mildly diuretic and vermifuge. The complete seed, together with the husk, is used to remove tapeworms. The seed is ground into a fine flour, then made into an emulsion with water and eaten. It is then necessary to take a purgative afterwards in order to expel the tapeworms or other parasites from the body. As a remedy for internal parasites, the seeds are less potent than the root of Dryopteris felix-mas, but they are safer for pregnant women, debilitated patients and children. The seed is used to treat hypertrophy of the prostate. The seed is high in zinc and has been used successfully in the early stages of prostate problems. The diuretic action has been used in the treatment of nephritis and other problems of the urinary system. The leaves are applied externally to burns. The sap of the plant and the pulp of the fruit can also be used. The fruit pulp is used as a decoction to relieve intestinal inflammation.
Project Purity Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting
Pumpkin pals are corn, melon and squash. Marigold deters beetles. Nasturtium deters bugs, beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection. Again dill may help repel those frustrating squash bugs.
Problems
Cucumber beetles carrying bacterial wilt, squash vine borers and squash bugs are the most common insect pests. Squash borers (caterpillars) tunnel into stems, causing that portion of the vine to wilt. Look for entry holes with droppings outside, make a vertical slit in the problem stem, and remove the caterpillar. Squash bugs can be removed by hand or by placing boards near the plants at night (bugs hide under the boards and can be destroyed the next morning). Additional potential insect pests include aphids, cutworms, leaf miners, white flies, and squash bugs. Watch for mites. Potential disease problems include bacterial wilt, fusarium wilt, blossom end rot, downy mildew and powdery mildew. Watermelon and cucumber mosaic virus may appear.
Cucumber Beetles
Beneficial insects such as Braconid Wasps, Ground Beetles, Soldier Beetles, Spiders, and Tachinid flies all prey on Cucumber Beetles.
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Spiders: Prey on a wide range including bed bugs, aphids, roaches, grasshoppers, cabbage looper, and fruit flies.
To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving spiders, mulch for predatory spiders.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Spiders: Prey on a wide range including bed bugs, aphids, roaches, grasshoppers, cabbage looper, and fruit flies.
To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving spiders, mulch for predatory spiders.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Squash Vine Borer
Because squash vine borers feed inside stems, they are hidden from predators. The adult moths are sometimes consumed by birds and other daytime predators.
Squash Bugs
Beneficial insects such as Tachinid fly, Ground Beetles and Damsel Flies all prey on Squash bugs.
Tachinid Flies: Prey on Cabbageworms, Gypsy Moths, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetle, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: carrots, dill, coriander, and buckwheat.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: carrots, dill, coriander, and buckwheat.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Aphids
Beneficial insects such as Ladybugs, Collops Beetle, Soldier Beetles, Long-legged Flies, Hover Flies, Predaceous Midges, Damsel Bugs, Big-eyed Bugs, Minute Pirate Bugs, Lacewings, and Parasitic Wasps,
Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.
Ladybeetles, Ladybugs, or Ladybird Beetles: Ladybeetles are probably the most well-known of beetles that eat aphids. There are many species, and both the adults and larvae eat aphids. Convergent lady beetles and the seven-spotted ladybeetles are abundant species in the environment. Eggs are found in clutches, yellow and football shaped. Larvae have an alligator-like appearance, and are black with orange markings. Pupae are sedentary. Ladybeetles are commercially available but purchasing is not generally recommended since the adult stage tends to fly away once released. Introductions may be more effective in greenhouses and high tunnels. Diverse plantings can help recruit resident ladybeetles to an area.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina),
Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), \Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris),
Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi),
Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata),
Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina),
Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), \Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris),
Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi),
Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata),
Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
Cutworms
Beneficial insects such as Ground Beetles, Tachinid Flies, Braconid Wasps, Spiders, Minute Pirate Bugs, Damsel Bugs, Lacewing Larvae, and Birds all prey on Cutworms.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Tachinid Flies: Prey on Cabbageworms, Gypsy Moths, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetle, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: carrots, dill, coriander, and buckwheat.
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Spiders: Prey on a wide range including bed bugs, aphids, roaches, grasshoppers, cabbage looper, and fruit flies.
To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving spiders, mulch for predatory spiders.
Minute Pirate Bugs: Preys on spider mites, cabbage looper, insect eggs, caterpillars, aphids, thrips
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Tachinid Flies: Prey on Cabbageworms, Gypsy Moths, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetle, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: carrots, dill, coriander, and buckwheat.
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Spiders: Prey on a wide range including bed bugs, aphids, roaches, grasshoppers, cabbage looper, and fruit flies.
To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving spiders, mulch for predatory spiders.
Minute Pirate Bugs: Preys on spider mites, cabbage looper, insect eggs, caterpillars, aphids, thrips
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Leaf Miners
Leaf miner parasitic wasps (Diglyphus isaea) are the main natural enemy of these ubiquitous garden pests. These tiny wasps prey on leaf miners by laying eggs in their larvae. When the eggs hatch, the wasp larvae feed on the leaf miner larvae. You can purchase Leaf miner parasite wasps as adults from online organic garden suppliers.
Ladybeetles, Ladybugs, or Ladybird Beetles: Ladybeetles are probably the most well-known of beetles that eat aphids. There are many species, and both the adults and larvae eat aphids. Convergent lady beetles and the seven-spotted ladybeetles are abundant species in the environment. Eggs are found in clutches, yellow and football shaped. Larvae have an alligator-like appearance, and are black with orange markings. Pupae are sedentary. Ladybeetles are commercially available but purchasing is not generally recommended since the adult stage tends to fly away once released. Introductions may be more effective in greenhouses and high tunnels. Diverse plantings can help recruit resident ladybeetles to an area.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, Caterpillars of pest moths, and whiteflies.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, Caterpillars of pest moths, and whiteflies.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
Spidermites
Beneficial insects such as minute pirate bugs, bigeyed bugs, and lacewing larvae all prey on Spidermites.
Minute Pirate Bugs: To attract Minute pirate bugs to your garden you will need to grow host plants they need such as Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-Eyed Bugs: To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow host plants they need such as Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: To attract lacewings to your garden you will need to grow host plants they need such as Fern-Leaf Yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne's Lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), and Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Big-Eyed Bugs: To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow host plants they need such as Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: To attract lacewings to your garden you will need to grow host plants they need such as Fern-Leaf Yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne's Lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), and Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Nutrition
Pumpkins are high in complex carbohydrates, Vitamins B6, A, C (beta carotene to especially dark skinned ones.) They also contain magnesium, potassium, thiamin and lutein.
The Health Benefits of Pumpkin
Pumpkin has been connected to a number of health benefits, such as the ability to reduce cancer, improve vision, protect cardiovascular health, boost immunity, increase fertility, improve bone mineral density, and aid weight loss, among others.
Boosts Immunity: With high levels of vitamin C in every bite, pumpkin is an excellent way to promote the health of the immune system, as it can stimulate the production of white blood cells, which are the body’s first line of defense against infections and foreign pathogens.
Increases Fertility: With the ability to balance the hormones and stimulate the metabolism in various ways, pumpkins have traditionally been known to increase fertility in both men and women.
Weight Loss: Pumpkins are surprisingly low in calories, making them ideal for people who are trying to lose weight. While their dietary fiber content is not as impressive as some other vegetables, they can help suppress your appetite without compromising your daily caloric intake.
Strengthens Bones: There is a variety of minerals found in pumpkins, making them an important component in boosting bone mineral density. This includes good amounts of copper, phosphorous, iron and magnesium.
Heart Health: These vegetables contain high levels of antioxidants and phenolic antioxidants, all of which can boost heart health by reducing oxidative stress in the blood vessels and arteries.
Protects Vision: With notable amounts of beta-carotene, lutein, and zeaxanthin, these vegetables are excellent ways to boost vision health, as these antioxidants can slow down the progression of both macular degeneration and cataracts. These squash varieties also have more than 250% of your daily requirements for vitamin A, which is linked to vision health.
Prevents Cancer: The antioxidants found in pumpkins, including the active ingredient cucurbitacin, can help prevent certain types of cancer and reduce oxidative stress throughout the body.
Neural Tube Defects: There is a good amount of folate found in pumpkins, which is a key nutrient in the prevention of neural tube defects; therefore, pregnant women would do well to add a bit of pumpkin to their diet!
Boosts Immunity: With high levels of vitamin C in every bite, pumpkin is an excellent way to promote the health of the immune system, as it can stimulate the production of white blood cells, which are the body’s first line of defense against infections and foreign pathogens.
Increases Fertility: With the ability to balance the hormones and stimulate the metabolism in various ways, pumpkins have traditionally been known to increase fertility in both men and women.
Weight Loss: Pumpkins are surprisingly low in calories, making them ideal for people who are trying to lose weight. While their dietary fiber content is not as impressive as some other vegetables, they can help suppress your appetite without compromising your daily caloric intake.
Strengthens Bones: There is a variety of minerals found in pumpkins, making them an important component in boosting bone mineral density. This includes good amounts of copper, phosphorous, iron and magnesium.
Heart Health: These vegetables contain high levels of antioxidants and phenolic antioxidants, all of which can boost heart health by reducing oxidative stress in the blood vessels and arteries.
Protects Vision: With notable amounts of beta-carotene, lutein, and zeaxanthin, these vegetables are excellent ways to boost vision health, as these antioxidants can slow down the progression of both macular degeneration and cataracts. These squash varieties also have more than 250% of your daily requirements for vitamin A, which is linked to vision health.
Prevents Cancer: The antioxidants found in pumpkins, including the active ingredient cucurbitacin, can help prevent certain types of cancer and reduce oxidative stress throughout the body.
Neural Tube Defects: There is a good amount of folate found in pumpkins, which is a key nutrient in the prevention of neural tube defects; therefore, pregnant women would do well to add a bit of pumpkin to their diet!
The Health Benefits of Pumpkin Seeds
Antioxidant Activity: Cancer is one of the most serious conditions that affect the human race, and we are constantly looking for ways to reduce our chances of developing this dreaded disease. Pumpkin seed extracts contain a number of anti-cancer properties and components, including phenolic compounds. These compounds have directly been attributed to scavenging free radicals in test subjects that were given pumpkin seed extract. Antioxidants are powerful substances that help the body get rid of free radicals, the dangerous byproducts of cellular metabolism that can lead to a host of diseases, including cancer!
Improve Prostate Health: Pumpkin seeds are good for relieving the symptoms of an enlarged prostate, primarily due to their activity as diuretics. This keeps the prostate healthy, which is one of the most common places for men to develop cancer.
Prevent Parasitic Activity: Pumpkin seeds have long been associated with anti-parasitic activity and have been used traditionally as a way to eliminate tapeworms and other dangerous parasites in the body. For children, who are the most susceptible to worms, pumpkin seeds provide a delicious snack and a very important defensive line against those worms, which can result in malnutrition, incorrect growth patterns, and even death. The exact mechanism by which pumpkin seeds do this is somewhat unclear.
Reduce Inflammation: Certain studies have shown that pumpkin seeds have anti-inflammatory properties in the body, which is one of the common uses of this delicious snack. Inflammation can often be the result of various deficiencies, including that of protein, various vitamins, and minerals. Inflammatory conditions like arthritis can be debilitating, so adding good amounts of proteins and anti-inflammatory compounds into your body will prevent that from happening. This will also help keep the tissues healthy. Pumpkin seeds have been directly associated with a decrease in inflammation and the associated pain of arthritis.
Prevent Kidney Stones: Pumpkin seeds have been connected with a reduction in toxins in the body, due to its diuretic properties, as well as the antioxidant activity. Furthermore, they stimulate circulation and increase the speed and processing of liver and kidney functions. Uric acid and various other toxins are therefore removed from the body, which means they cannot accumulate into dangerous kidney stones or other forms, like gout and arthritis, as mentioned earlier. Pumpkin seeds promote good health of kidneys and help to detoxify body from top to bottom.
Boost Body Metabolism: Our body functions at its highest levels when all of our systems are working efficiently and healthily. Having a stable and adequate amount of protein in your diet is essential because proteins are made up of amino acids, which are used in thousands of necessary enzymatic and metabolic processes every day. Without those essential amino acids and proteins, our bodies would cease to function, and we would become weak, lethargic, unhealthy, slow-witted, and exhausted.
Good Source of Protein: Pumpkin seeds are a huge source of proteins. 30% of pumpkin seed volume is made of proteins. There are 12 grams of proteins in a single cup of pumpkin seeds, which is approximately 25% of our daily requirement of protein.
Induce Sleep: If you’re feeling tired or stressed after a long day, you can turn to pumpkin seeds to calm yourself down and get a good night’s sleep. Pumpkin seeds are rich sources of both magnesium and tryptophan that are closely associated with sedation and soothing qualities that stimulate sleep. These seeds can help your head hit the pillow in a peaceful, lasting way due to those two vital components.
Prevent Osteoporosis: Pumpkin seeds are extremely popular due to their effects on osteoporosis. They have high levels of zinc, calcium, copper, and other minerals that are linked to increased bone density. Studies have shown that consistent intake of pumpkin seeds can reduce bone weakness and the symptoms of osteoporosis.
Lower Cholesterol Levels: One of the unique organic compounds in pumpkin seeds is phytosterols, which is directly connected to lower LDL cholesterol levels. These phytosterols prevent blood clots and atherosclerosis, thereby reducing the risk of heart attacks and strokes.
Reduce Blood Pressure: Furthermore, the high copper levels in pumpkin seeds increase red blood cell count in the body and improve oxygenated passage of blood through the vessels. This fact, combined with low sodium content, can improve heart health by reducing blood pressure, so pumpkin seeds should be considered a valuable cardiovascular booster.
Improve Prostate Health: Pumpkin seeds are good for relieving the symptoms of an enlarged prostate, primarily due to their activity as diuretics. This keeps the prostate healthy, which is one of the most common places for men to develop cancer.
Prevent Parasitic Activity: Pumpkin seeds have long been associated with anti-parasitic activity and have been used traditionally as a way to eliminate tapeworms and other dangerous parasites in the body. For children, who are the most susceptible to worms, pumpkin seeds provide a delicious snack and a very important defensive line against those worms, which can result in malnutrition, incorrect growth patterns, and even death. The exact mechanism by which pumpkin seeds do this is somewhat unclear.
Reduce Inflammation: Certain studies have shown that pumpkin seeds have anti-inflammatory properties in the body, which is one of the common uses of this delicious snack. Inflammation can often be the result of various deficiencies, including that of protein, various vitamins, and minerals. Inflammatory conditions like arthritis can be debilitating, so adding good amounts of proteins and anti-inflammatory compounds into your body will prevent that from happening. This will also help keep the tissues healthy. Pumpkin seeds have been directly associated with a decrease in inflammation and the associated pain of arthritis.
Prevent Kidney Stones: Pumpkin seeds have been connected with a reduction in toxins in the body, due to its diuretic properties, as well as the antioxidant activity. Furthermore, they stimulate circulation and increase the speed and processing of liver and kidney functions. Uric acid and various other toxins are therefore removed from the body, which means they cannot accumulate into dangerous kidney stones or other forms, like gout and arthritis, as mentioned earlier. Pumpkin seeds promote good health of kidneys and help to detoxify body from top to bottom.
Boost Body Metabolism: Our body functions at its highest levels when all of our systems are working efficiently and healthily. Having a stable and adequate amount of protein in your diet is essential because proteins are made up of amino acids, which are used in thousands of necessary enzymatic and metabolic processes every day. Without those essential amino acids and proteins, our bodies would cease to function, and we would become weak, lethargic, unhealthy, slow-witted, and exhausted.
Good Source of Protein: Pumpkin seeds are a huge source of proteins. 30% of pumpkin seed volume is made of proteins. There are 12 grams of proteins in a single cup of pumpkin seeds, which is approximately 25% of our daily requirement of protein.
Induce Sleep: If you’re feeling tired or stressed after a long day, you can turn to pumpkin seeds to calm yourself down and get a good night’s sleep. Pumpkin seeds are rich sources of both magnesium and tryptophan that are closely associated with sedation and soothing qualities that stimulate sleep. These seeds can help your head hit the pillow in a peaceful, lasting way due to those two vital components.
Prevent Osteoporosis: Pumpkin seeds are extremely popular due to their effects on osteoporosis. They have high levels of zinc, calcium, copper, and other minerals that are linked to increased bone density. Studies have shown that consistent intake of pumpkin seeds can reduce bone weakness and the symptoms of osteoporosis.
Lower Cholesterol Levels: One of the unique organic compounds in pumpkin seeds is phytosterols, which is directly connected to lower LDL cholesterol levels. These phytosterols prevent blood clots and atherosclerosis, thereby reducing the risk of heart attacks and strokes.
Reduce Blood Pressure: Furthermore, the high copper levels in pumpkin seeds increase red blood cell count in the body and improve oxygenated passage of blood through the vessels. This fact, combined with low sodium content, can improve heart health by reducing blood pressure, so pumpkin seeds should be considered a valuable cardiovascular booster.
Suggested Varieties
Amaranth: Love Lies Bleeding (Heirloom) (Amaranthus caudatus)
$1.00 - $5.60
As a decorative flower, Love-Lies-Bleeding grew in many Victorian English gardens; in the language of flowers, it represents hopeless love. In addition to producing lovely flowers, Love-Lies-Bleeding is a form of the grain-producing plant known as amaranth. A staple grain for the Aztecs and Incas, amaranth was referred to as the "golden grain of the gods" and used in religious rituals. The plant nearly died out when the Spanish Conquistadors declared their religious practices barbaric, and made growing amaranth a capital offense. Today, both the leaves and the seeds of amaranth are an important food source in many parts of the world. This unique grain provides an impressive amount of vitamins and minerals, as well as being very rich in protein.
Amaranth: Perfecta (Heirloom) (Amaranthus Tricolor 'Perfecta')
$1.00 - $5.60
This fast-growing, heat-loving plant originated in tropical Asia, where it is widely cultivated as a leaf vegetable. It bears large, elliptic or oval leaves on erect stems. The brightly hued new leaves fade gradually to medium green with deep maroon markings. This cultivar is spectacular from summer to frost. Insignificant clusters of green or reddish flowers appear at the stem tips and in the leaf axils in summer. Small capsules containing a single brown or black seed follow the flowers.
Amaranth: Red Garnet (Heirloom) (Amaranthus tricolor)
$1.00 - $5.60
Amaranth had a sacred status in the ancient civilizations of the Aztecs and Incas, since the grain was used in various religious rituals. It remains a staple food in modern Mexico and some parts of Asia, being prepared in numerous dishes from sweet to savory. One traditional Mexican treat known as "alegria" is made with amaranth grain and honey or molasses. A super grain, amaranth can be used for gluten free flour; it also makes a complete protein when mixed with another grain. In addition, amaranth greens have a higher iron content than any other green vegetable except parsley, as well as containing many valuable vitamins and minerals.
Angelica (Angelica atropurpurea)
$1.00 - $5.60
Angelica is perennial native that stands 3-8' tall and is commonly found in woodlands and swampy areas near streams and rivers. It produces large, pale to dark purple hollow stems, with ¾-4½" long, medium to dark green sub leaflets. Being both edible and medicinal, this plant surely has a lot of offer any garden.
Balm: Lemon (Melissa officinalis)
$1.00 - $5.60
Lemon balm was most likely introduced to Spain by the Moors in the 7th century; by the Middle Ages, it was common throughout Europe. Its Latin name, Melissa, means “bee” in Greek and refers to the plant's tendency to attract bees; first century Roman naturalist Pliny the Elder recommended that lemon balm be cultivated near bee hives to prevent the bees from straying. A member of the mint family, lemon balm dates back over 2,000 years for use as a medicinal herb primarily to treat stress and anxiety, insomnia, and indigestion. Eleventh century Persian physician and philosopher Avicenna wrote of the benefits of lemon balm in treating low spirits or melancholy. According to an old Arabian proverb, “Balm makes the heart merry and joyful.” According to historical record, both King Charles V of France and Emperor Charles V drank lemon balm beverages to improve their health; lemon balm was also one of the plants grown in Thomas Jefferson’s famous experimental garden. Today, herbal treatments containing lemon balm often include other calming herbs such as valerian, chamomile, and hops to encourage relaxation.
Bergamot: Wild (Monarda fistulosa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Butterfly attracting premier! Bursting with lavender heads of flowers, this popular perennial wildflower puts on a beautiful show! Medium to tall in height, this plant looks great planted en masse, or with other meadow dwellers. Its sweetly aromatic foliage makes it even more desirable. A classic!
Cabbage: Early Jersey Wakefield (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
$1.00 - $5.60
The first Early Jersey Wakefield cabbages were raised in 1840 by a man named Francis Brill of Jersey City, New Jersey. Thirty years later, seed companies all over the region offered this seed for sale; growers appreciated its early harvest and small, tender heads.
Caraway (Carum carvi)
$1.00 - $5.60
Possibly one of the oldest herbs, evidence of caraway has been found in the Neolithic ruins of Europe as well as in ancient Egypt. Medieval medicine recommended the use of caraway for the improvement of digestion as well as for infant colic; William Shakespeare himself made reference to the culinary use of this herb in his play Henry IV, when Falstaff is invited to "take a pippin and a dish of caraways." The flavor of caraway became extremely popular in Tudor England, especially cooked with fruit or for cakes and bread. Caraway has a well known role in the cuisine of Germany, Scandanavia, northern Africa, and various eastern European countries.
Carrots: Chantenay Red Cored (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
Introduced from France in the late 1800s. Blocky, broad-shouldered variety with blunt tip, about 5-1/2" long and 2-1/2" at the shoulder. Deep orange interior. Adaptable to clay and a wide range of soils. A versatile, good winter keeper that is quite tasty, raw or cooked. Stores well in the ground. Becomes sweeter in storage.
Carrots: Cosmic Purple (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The first mention of red, white, and purple carrots can be found in the records of both Afghanistan and Egypt. Yellow carrots, on the other hand, date back to Turkish records from the 900's. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California.
Carrots: Danvers (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The origin of carrots is somewhat obscure, but early records from many civilizations refer to this colorful root. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California. Danvers carrots in particular come from Danvers, Massachusetts, where the Eastern States Farmers Exchange introduced them in 1947.
Carrots: Rainbow Blend (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
Only a few left!
Festive Color and Flavor Mix of Purple, Yellow, Red and White Carrots is sure to delight—each with their own unique qualities. Purple has smooth skin, coreless orange flesh and is sweet and tasty. Solar Yellow holds its sunny hue inside and out, is crunchy, sweet and juicy. Lunar White is mild and delicious, and Atomic Red has high lycopene levels as well as a crispy texture that is great cooked.
Carrots: Scarlet Nantes (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The origin of carrots is somewhat obscure, but early records from many civilizations refer to this colorful root. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. The 19th century seed specialist Louis de Vilmorin introduced the French varieties of carrot such as Nantes and Chantenay, which both derive their names from their places of origin. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California.
Carrots: Tendersweet (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The origin of carrots is somewhat obscure, but early records from many civilizations refer to this colorful root. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. The Dutch were the among the first to cultivate the orange carrot; legend has it that their intent was to honor William of Orange. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California.
Chives: Garlic (Allium tuberosum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Originating in western China, garlic chives have been used in Asian cuisine for thousands of years. Unlike the traditional tubular leaves of regular chives, garlic chives have flat, narrow blades; some gardeners blanch their garlic chives, causing them to develop a pale yellow color. Traditional pad Thai, Chinese jiaozi, and various Korean dishes such as buchukimchi often contain garlic chives; they also make a popular addition to stir fries, soups, and dishes with eggs or fish. These delicately garlic scented leaves are often used more as a vegetable than an herb, and may also substitute for standard chives. Garlic chives provide abundant vitamins and minerals, including vitamin C, calcium, and iron.
Chives: Onion (Allium schoenoprasum var. album)
$1.00 - $5.60
Chives, the oldest species of edible onion known, has been used in China since about 3000 B.C. The botanical name actually comes from the Greek meaning, "reed-like leek". Chives are now grown all over the world; historical legend states that Marco Polo discovered this herb in China and brought it back to his native land. Medieval gardeners often planted chives around the borders for both decoration and to ward off harmful insects. Traditional medicinal uses, though not as common, included treatment for high cholesterol and poor digestion. Along with parsley, tarragon, and chervil, chives is included in the famous blend of herbs known as "Fines herbes." The onion-like flavor of chives makes them a traditional addition to dishes with cheese, eggs, fish, or potatoes; the flowers make a delicate herbal vinegar, in addition to being a colorful addition to salads.
Clover: Crimson (Trifolium incarnatum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Most commonly known as crimson clover, this wildflower is also called Italian or French clover in reference to it's nativity to Europe. This annual species blooms in a strawberry red, and it's delightful fragrance attracts bees by the score! A non-invasive, annual species of clover, it is often used as a cover-crop. In southern climates, plant it during your off-season, and watch the amazing results of this rich, nitrogen producing plant! The earthworms love it! Also a protein-rich forage crop for cattle and livestock, this gem of a wildflower is indispensable!
Clover: Purple Prairie (Dalea purpurea)
$1.00 - $5.60
Meriwether Lewis described this prairie plant in his diary entry of September 2nd 1804, saying that “the Indians use it as an application to fresh wounds.” He went on to collect several more specimens and described them fully in his notes, since he had no previous knowledge of the plant. Purple Prairie Clover produces protein-rich seed that is a source of food for many birds as well as deer, antelope, livestock, and small animals of all kinds. Native Americans also valued this versatile plant, often brewing the leaves for tea or eating the roots as a delicacy. The Pawnees dried the stems and tied them together for brooms, leading to the nickname “broom weed.” The genus name Dalea honors Samuel Dale (1659-1739), an English botanist, physician, and historian.
Clover: Strawberry Palestine (Trifolium fragiferum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Strawberry Palestine Clover is an introduced species that is native to the Mediterranean, as well as parts of central Europe and Asia. Growing to 9-12”, this hardy groundcover tolerates flooding and is great for grazing! It’s botanical name “fragiferum” translates to “strawberry bearing” since both the mature flower look and spread very much like strawberries!
Coriander: Leisure (Coriandrum sativum)
$1.00 - $5.60
The coriander plant, whose leaves are known as cilantro, is native to the Mediterranean and Middle Easter countries; it is believed to be one of the earliest spices used by man. Early physicians such as Hippocrates used coriander primarily as an aromatic stimulant or to disguise the taste of unsavory medicines. Nearly every part of this herb has a culinary use; in Thai cuisine, the roots flavor spicy sauces, while the cilantro leaves season and garnish Chinese, Vietnamese, and Mexican dishes. The coriander seed is used in candy, specialty breads, sauces, desserts, and even perfumes. In Tudor England, coriander seeds coated with sugar were known as "comfits" and became a popular treat.
Cosmos: Bright Lights (Cosmos sulphureus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Because of their Mexican heritage, these bright annuals meet high heat and drought conditions with native beauty and vigor. Spanish conquistadors searching for gold discovered these flowers on their journeys through Mexico. Mission gardens often included these flowers, which priests gave the name “cosmos,” the Greek word for a harmonious whole, because of their neatly spaced petals. Cosmos flowers made their way to England with Spanish ambassadors in the late 18th century, and to the United States in the following century.
Cosmos: Candy Stripe (Cosmos bipinnatus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Because of their Mexican heritage, these bright annuals meet high heat and drought conditions with native beauty and vigor. Spanish conquistadors searching for gold discovered these flowers on their journeys through Mexico. Mission gardens often included these flowers, which priests gave the name “cosmos,” the Greek word for a harmonious whole, because of their neatly spaced petals. Cosmos flowers made their way to England with Spanish ambassadors in the late 18th century, and to the United States in the following century.
Cosmos: Radiance (Cosmos bipinnatus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Because of their Mexican heritage, these bright annuals meet high heat and drought conditions with native beauty and vigor. Spanish conquistadors searching for gold discovered these flowers on their journeys through Mexico. Mission gardens often included these flowers, which priests gave the name “cosmos,” the Greek word for a harmonious whole, because of their neatly spaced petals. Cosmos flowers made their way to England with Spanish ambassadors in the late 18th century, and to the United States in the following century.
Dill: Dukat (Anethum graveolens)
$1.00 - $5.60
Historical records suggest that dill has been used for medicinal purposes for over 5,000 years; its primary use was to calm the digestion and treat stomach ailments, hence its name from an old Saxon word meaning "to lull." Ancient Greek tradition suggested covering the head with dill leaves to induce sleep, while many herbal remedies from ages past recommend dill to soothe colicky babies. Traditionally, dill was thought to bring good fortune, protection, and wealth. Though the origin of dill's famous association with the pickle is not known, an 1640 recipe from the cook of England's King Charles I requires dill in its pickled cucumbers. Today, German, Greek, and Scandinavian cuisine most often include dill.
English Marigold (Calendula officinalis)
$1.00 - $5.60
This old-fashioned flower has a long history as both an ornamental garden plant and as an herb. When dried, the petals of Calendula flowers provide a culinary substitute for saffron; in times past, they were used to give a rich color to cheese or butter. Medicinal uses included treatments for measles and smallpox, as well as for dressing wounds on the battlefield. As well as being the traditional flower for October birthdays, calendula symbolizes sorrow and sympathy.
Fennel: Florence (Foeniculum vulgare var. azoricum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Fennel has a rich history in ancient Greece, where it was called "marathon." The Battle of Marathon in 490 BC and the Italian town of the same name both received their names from this plant, which the Grecians regarded as a symbol of victory. Its medicinal properties, which are many, include an ability to suppress the appetite. In 13th century England, people ate fennel seeds during fast days or long sermons to partially satisfy their hunger; this led to the nickname "meeting seeds." A tea made of fennel became a well known treatment for infant colic or digestive disturbances. The seed of the fennel plant is most commonly found in Middle Eastern cuisine, while the bulb-like portion of the plant is popular in Italian and German cuisine. While culinary use is perfectly safe, large doses of fennel should be avoided by expectant mothers.
Marigolds: Naughty Marietta (Tagetes patula)
$1.00 - $5.60
For non-stop bloom until frost, there's nothing better than French marigolds. The single flowers are golden yellow with mahogany streaks, and are very attractive to bees and butterflies. Ideal for planting along borders, or among vegetables to deter pests. Also makes a perfect container plant for pots or window boxes. The deeply divided foliage forms a bushy mound up to 12 inches high.
Marigolds: Sparky Mix French (Tagetes patula)
$1.00 - $5.60
This easy-to-grow French marigold will bloom all season long. Compact mounds up to 12 inches tall will produce vivid bi-color orange and yellow flowers with an unusual form. This unique flower has wider, wavy petals that make these blossoms spectacular when planted en masse. A beautiful choice for containers as well as gardens.
Marigold: White (Tagetes Erecta 'Kilimanjaro')
$1.00 - $5.60
Commonly called African marigold, Aztec marigold, American marigold or big marigold, is native to Mexico and Central America. Big marigold may be the best descriptive name because plants are noted for their large flowerheads. They typically grow from 1-4’ tall and feature huge, mostly double-globular flowers (2-4” diameter) in various shades of yellow, orange, and whitish. This variety is unaffected by high summer heat and generally blooms throughout the summer.
Milkweed: Blood Flower (Asclepias curassavica)
$1.00 - $5.60
In 1753, eminent botanist Carl Linnaeus gave Blood Flower its Latin genus name, Asclepias. Asclepias, the name of the legendary Greek representation of medicine and healing, is especially appropriate since this plant formerly had numerous medicinal uses. At one time, the silk from the seed pods was spun for fabric or used for stuffing pillows; in World War II, school children gathered the silk to provide a cheap filling for soldiers’ life jackets. Commercial attempts to make use of this abundant plant included the manufacture of paper, fabric, lubricant, fuel, and rubber; eventually these became impractical and were abandoned. In the wild, Blood Flower attracts flocks of butterflies and their larvae; butterflies are immune to the plant’s poison, and actually become rather poisonous themselves as protection from predators.
Milkweed: Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Butterfly Weed, one of the most striking of native plants, lights up the prairies with its blazing orange flowers. It thrives in rocky or sandy soil, typically in open fields or along roadsides. One of its common names, pleurisy root, refers to an old remedy for lung ailments that contained this plant. At one time, the silk from this plant’s seed pods was spun for fabric or used for stuffing pillows; in World War II, school children gathered the silk to provide a cheap filling for soldiers’ life jackets. Commercial attempts to make use of this abundant plant included the manufacture of paper, fabric, lubricant, fuel, and rubber; eventually these became impractical and were abandoned. Though this plant is toxic to most animals, butterflies are immune to the plant’s poison and actually become rather poisonous themselves as protection from predators.
Milkweed: Common (Asclepias syriaca)
$1.00 - $5.60
Common milkweed is Nature's mega food market for insects. Over 450 insects are known to feed on some portion of the plant. Numerous insects are attracted to the nectar-laden flowers and it is not at all uncommon to see flies, beetles, ants, bees, wasps, and butterflies on the flowers at the same time. Occasionally hummingbirds will try, unsuccessfully, to extract nectar. Its sap, leaves and flowers also provide food.
Milkweed: Showy (Asclepias speciosa)
$1.00 - $5.60
A popular native wildflower in western North America, Showy Milkweed commonly occurs on rocky slopes, woodland areas, or along roads or streams. John Torrey, a Columbia University botanist, recorded this species for science in 1820 from a specimen found near the Canadian River. At one time, the silk from this plant’s seed pods was spun for fabric or used for stuffing pillows; in World War II, school children gathered the silk to provide a cheap filling for soldiers’ life jackets. Commercial attempts to make use of this abundant plant included the manufacture of paper, fabric, lubricant, fuel, and rubber; eventually these became impractical and were abandoned. Though this plant is toxic to most animals, butterflies are immune to the plant’s poison and actually become rather poisonous themselves as protection from predators.
Milkweed: Swamp (Asclepias incarnata)
$1.00 - $5.60
As the name indicates, these swamp milkweed seeds for sale thrive in swamps and low meadows or along streams. The bright pink flowers attract swarms of bees and butterflies, and have a sweet scent described as similar to vanilla or cinnamon. At one time, the silk from swamp milkweed seed pods was spun for fabric or used for stuffing pillows; in World War II, school children gathered the silk to provide a cheap filling for soldiers' life jackets. Commercial attempts to make use of this abundant plant included the manufacture of paper, fabric, lubricant, fuel, and rubber; eventually these became impractical and were abandoned. Though this plant is toxic to most animals, butterflies are immune to the plant's poison and actually become rather poisonous themselves as protection from predators.
Mint: Pennyroyal (Mentha Pulegium)
$1.00 - $5.60
Pennyroyal, a member of the mint family, is a perennial herb that was once widely used but is not as common today. It has applications as an herbal remedy, culinary uses and as a decorative touch. Growing pennyroyal in the herb or perennial garden will add color with its lavender blooms.
Nasturtiums: Empress of India (Tropaeolum minus)
$1.00 - $5.60
These brilliant crimson flowers are set off by the deep blue-green leaves. This heirloom variety has a dwarf, bushy habit, and will self-sow. Edible blooms and leaves make a lovely garnish and bright addition to salads.
Nasturtiums: Jewel Mix (Tropaeolum minus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Cheery three-inch blooms in a lovely mix of peach, pink, yellow, orange and red bloom all summer on this dwarf nasturtium. Compact growth and bright blooms make this an ideal choice for garden beds or containers. Thrives in poor soil, and does well in cool weather. The flowers and leaves are edible, and will attract hummingbirds and butterflies as well as beneficial insects.
Parsley: Italian Giant (Heirloom) (Petroselinum crispum var. neapolitanum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Parsley has a long and colorful history, being well known in many cultures. Myths and legends abound concerning this herb, making it the symbol of such widely varying things as death, victory, and life. One colonial superstition connecting parsley with death held such power that many farmers refused to grow this herb at all. Curly leaved parsley is the most well known and commonly available herb; it contains vitamins A and C as well as other valuable antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals.
Penstemon: Rocky Mountain (Penstemon strictus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Hardy, drought tolerant, and stunningly beautiful, what more could you want? Rich indigo blooms tower high on this Beardtongue, and are loved by hummingbirds and bees. Rocky Mountain Penstemon is one of the easiest Beardtongues to grow, and has a long blooming period of about a month in the Spring. A real show stopper!
Poached Egg Plant (Limnanthes douglasii)
$1.00 - $5.60
This native species was first discovered by David Douglas, a Scottish botanist commissioned to collect native American plants suitable for the gardens of Great Britain. The species name "douglasii" honors his discovery, while the genus name "Limnanthes" means "marsh flower" because of this plant's preference for moist soil. This fragrant butterfly magnet has been awarded the Royal Horticultural Society's prestigious Award of Garden Merit.
Radish: Early Scarlet Globe (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Early Scarlet Globe is an early variety of radish and an favorite of many home gardeners because it matures in just 23 days! Though their exact origin is unknown, certainly have been growing in America since the late 19th century. After reviewing an assortment of the early radishes then available, the June 1913 issue of "Garden Magazine" said of Scarlet Globe, "it remains in good table condition longer than any of the early sorts mentioned above."
Radish: French Breakfast (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Though the exact origin of French Breakfast radishes is unknown, renowned seed expert James J. H. Gregory of Marblehead, Massachusetts first offered them for sale in his seed catalog in 1875.
Radish: German Giant (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Radishes, in their early forms, come from the ancient civilizations of China, Greece, and Egypt; soon, surrounding nations also cultivated this vegetable. While the Oriental nations cultivated the large, elongated radishes, most of the round varieties such as German Giant were developed by the Dutch and the French. German Giant, as the name suggests, is an Amish heirloom that originated in Germany.
Radish: Watermelon (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
The Watermelon radish is a type of Japanese winter radish also known as a "daikon," which simply means "large root" in Japanese. Daikon radishes account for the largest percentage of any cultivated vegetable in Japan, and can be found in some form in nearly every meal of that country. Watermelon radishes, which orginated in north China near Beijing, are often served sweetened there as a dessert or fruit.
Radish: White Spear Sprouting (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
White Spear is a type of Japanese winter radish also known as a "daikon," which simply means "large root" in Japanese. Daikon radishes account for the largest percentage of any cultivated vegetable in Japan, and can be found in some form in nearly every meal of that country.
Yarrow: Red (Achillea millefolium rubra)
$1.00 - $5.60
Native to Southern Europe, yarrow has been a traditional part of herb gardens for hundreds of years because of its fragrant foliage and cheerful, long lasting flowers. Yarrow can often be found in fields, along roads, or on rocky hillsides. Linnaeus named it for Greek general Achilles, who according to legend received yarrow as a gift from the gods; the general’s soldiers used yarrow to stanch the flow of their blood in the battlefields of the Trojan War. In the early days of the American prairies, Native American tribes such as the Pawnee, Cherokee, and Chippewa used common yarrow to relieve pain and headaches, reduce fever, and induce sleep. When taken internally as a tea, yarrow purifies the system and has anti-inflammatory benefits. Cosmetic preparations sometimes include yarrow because of its cleansing, refreshing effect. Medicinal use of yarrow is not recommended for expectant mothers.
Yarrow: White (Achillea millefolium)
$1.00 - $5.60
Native to Southern Europe, yarrow has been a traditional part of herb gardens for hundreds of years because of its fragrant foliage and cheerful, long lasting flowers. Yarrow can often be found in fields, along roads, or on rocky hillsides. Linnaeus named it for Greek general Achilles, who according to legend received yarrow as a gift from the gods; the general’s soldiers used yarrow to stanch the flow of their blood in the battlefields of the Trojan War. In the early days of the American prairies, Native American tribes such as the Pawnee, Cherokee, and Chippewa used common yarrow to relieve pain and headaches, reduce fever, and induce sleep. When taken internally as a tea, yarrow purifies the system and has anti-inflammatory benefits. Cosmetic preparations sometimes include yarrow because of its cleansing, refreshing effect. Medicinal use of yarrow is not recommended for expectant mothers.