Broccoli: Romanesco (Organic) (Brassica oleracea var. botrytis)

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Romanesco broccoli is an annual vegetable that is native to Western Europe. It can reach the height of 2 1/2' and offers its growers fancy, apple-green broccoli heads that whorl! It not only tastes better than most broccoli varieties, but it also has better texture. Romanesco is widely grown and does exceptionally well in cool northern areas.

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General Information
Soil Preparation & Start Indoors
Transplant Outdoors & Start Outdoors
Crop Care
Harvesting & Storage
Seed Saving
Culinary
Companion Planting
Nutrition & Health Benefits

Scientific Name: Brassica oleracea var. botrytis

Native Range: Western Europe.

Also Known As: Roman cauliflower, Broccolo Romanesco, and Romanesque cauliflower.

Ease of Growing: Easy

Grown as: Annual

Maturity: 74 days

Hardiness: Hardy. Broccoli isn't as hardy as cabbage, though it can be frost tolerant in temperatures as low as 20˚ F. This particular variety is very frost hardy.

Crops: Spring Transplant, Spring, Fall Transplant, Fall

Growing Season: Long

Growing Conditions: Cold, Cool. Broccoli likes full sun, especially when growing in cool weather. It will tolerate some shade, but this slows maturation. The large plants take up quite a bit of space, but this usually isn't an issue in cooler weather, as the garden is often half empty anyway.

Outdoor Growing Temp: 40°F - 75°F

Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 60°F. Broccoli isn't as hardy as most other Brassicas and seedlings shouldn't go outside until the soil is at least 60˚ F.

Start Indoors: Yes

Start Outdoors: Yes

Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Cold, Cool). Broccoli prefers full sun when growing in cool weather.

Water: Moderate. Broccoli transpires quite a lot of water and for optimal growth the soil should be moist at all times. This isn't usually a problem because it grows in fairly cool weather.

Feeder: Heavy. Like most members of the cabbage family, Broccoli is a hungry plant and needs plenty of nutrients for good growth. It doesn't like acid soil.

Suitability: Tolerates light frost, Needs lots of space.

Small Gardens?: Yes

Containers?: Yes. For one broccoli plant, you'll need a pot that is at least 10" deep and 12" wide, but the deeper the better. Fill with a mixture of potting soil and compost and keep the soil moist but not overly wet. If you are using a larger container, be sure to space your broccoli plants at least 18 to 24" apart. Although broccoli is a cool weather plant, it loves sunshine so be sure to place the container in an area with access to at least 3 hours of full sun a day.

Attracts beneficial insects?: No

Forage: Rabbits. Safe in Moderation!

Maintenance: Low

Height: 24-36"

Sowing Depth: 1/2"

Spacing: 24-30"

Produces: apple-green broccoli heads that whorl and range in size.

USDA Grow Zone: 2-11

Garden Uses: Vegetable gardens.

Soil Preparation

Soil Preference:
Soil pH: 6.0-7.5, Ideal 6.5-6.8. Broccoli needs to grow fast for best quality. To do this it needs a rich, moist, well-drained soil, with lots of available nutrients and organic matter. Like most Brassicas it doesn't like acid soil.

Soil Preparation:
Black plastic, to warm soil, 1 time: Plastic mulch is sometimes used in Spring, to warm the soil before planting.

Standard Mix, 5 pounds, in top 8" of soil, 1 time: A standard mix will supply additional nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium and magnesium. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require.

It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:

4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)

Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.

Compost (Nitrogen), 2", in top 8" of soil, 1 time: Prepare the soil by incorporating 2 to 3˝ of aged manure, or compost, into the top 6 to 8˝ of soil (which is where most of the plants feeder roots are found).

Lime (Calcium), 5 pounds per 100 sq. ft., in top 8" of soil, 1 time: OPTIONAL: Broccoli doesn't like acid soil, so add lime if necessary. The quantity will depend upon your soil, but 5 pounds of dolomitic limestone per 100 square foot would be a good start.

Start Indoors

Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and 1/2" deep in warm soil.

Soil Temp for Germination: 45°F to 85°F, optimal 60°F to 75°F, optimal 75°F

Total Weeks to Grow Transplant: 14 to 17 (Spring/Summer), 30 to 32 (Fall/Winter)

Germinate: 14-16 weeks before first frost date. Like most Brassicas, Broccoli doesn’t mind transplanting, so it is commonly started indoors. It can be sown in flats, cell packs, soil blocks or plug trays.

Germinate: 3-5 weeks before last frost date. Like most Brassicas, Broccoli doesn’t mind transplanting, so it is commonly started indoors. It can be sown in flats, cell packs, soil blocks or plug trays.

Harden Off: 1 week before last frost date. If they are to go outside while it is still cold, the seedlings should be hardened off. They will then tolerate temperatures as low as 25˚F.

Transplant Outdoors

Transplant Outdoors: 9 weeks before first frost date. By the time it goes outside, the plant should be 3˝ to 4˝ high, with 3 to 5 leaves and a stem diameter of about 1/8˝. Plant them out slightly deeper than they grew in the flats, to the depth of their first true leaves. Broccoli prefers cooler temperatures and does best as a fall crop, growing and heading up best at about 65˚ F. It is also less bothered by pests in cool weather and the heads stay in peak condition for longer. Mature plants can sit in the garden, ready to harvest, for weeks. They are fairly hardy and can survive frost as low as 20˚ F. Autumn Broccoli should be transplanted 9 weeks before the first fall frost date, so it is close to maturity by the time cold weather hits. If you are growing a lot of Broccoli for freezing, you should plant it at the optimal time, which is late summer. This also means you won't have to keep it frozen all summer.

Space saving alternative: In warmer weather Broccoli transplants can be started in an outdoor nursery bed. This is better than direct sowing in that they don’t take up any bed space for the first month or two of their lives.

1. The seeds are sown in a small, protected area of soil, pricked out into a slightly larger area and finally planted out in the garden beds.

Transplant Outdoors: 0-1 weeks after last frost date: By the time it goes outside, the plant should be 3˝ to 4˝ high, with 3 to 5 leaves and a stem diameter of about 1/8˝. Plant them out slightly deeper than they grew in the flats, to the depth of their first true leaves.

Vernalization: In spring it is important to get transplants outside before they get too big. If their stems are over 1/4˝ diameter, they may be vernalized by cold temperatures. This happens when they are exposed to temperatures below 50˚F for two weeks and it will cause them to bolt as soon as it warms up. Of course you could just keep them inside until all risk of cold weather is past (or protect them with cloches or row covers). This is another reason Broccoli does best as a fall Crop.

Cold, Cool: Broccoli likes full sun, especially when growing in cool weather. It will tolerate some shade, but this slows maturation. The large plants take up quite a bit of space, but this usually isn't an issue in cooler weather, as the garden is often half empty anyway.

When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F

When min soil temp: 60°F. Broccoli isn't as hardy as most other Brassicas and seedlings shouldn't go outside until the soil is at least 60˚ F.

Spacing: 12-24", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. The spacing you use depends on the fertility of the soil and how large you want the heads to grow. The wider the spacing, the larger the individual plants, (and their heads) can get. At 18" spacing, the heads may grow to be 6" in diameter. Closely spaced plants do not produce as many side shoots either.

12-18": Excellent soil or for small heads
18": Good soil or for medium heads
18-24": Poor soil or for large heads.

Support: No

Start outdoors

When Cold, Cool: Broccoli likes full sun, especially when growing in cool weather. It will tolerate some shade, but this slows maturation. The large plants take up quite a bit of space, but this usually isn't an issue in cooler weather, as the garden is often half empty anyway.

When Outdoor Temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F

When Min Soil Temp: 60°F. Broccoli isn't as hardy as most other Brassicas and seedlings shouldn't go outside until the soil is at least 60˚ F.

Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and 1/2" deep in warm soil.

Spacing: 12-24", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. The spacing you use depends on the fertility of the soil and how large you want the heads to grow. The wider the spacing, the larger the individual plants, (and their heads) can get. At 18" spacing, the heads may grow to be 6" in diameter. Closely spaced plants do not produce as many side shoots either.

12-18": Excellent soil or for small heads.
18": Good soil or for medium heads.
18-24": Poor soil or for large heads.

Spring Crop: 2 weeks after last frost date. Though Broccoli is usually transplanted, it can also be direct sown.

1. Broccoli germinates readily. Plant twice as many seeds as you need plants, at a depth of ½˝.
2. Thin to the required spacing, when they have their first set of true leaves.

Space Saving Alternative: In warmer weather Broccoli transplants can be started in an outdoor nursery bed. This is better than direct sowing in that they don’t take up any bed space for the first month or two of their lives.

1. The seeds are sown in a small, protected area of soil, pricked out into a slightly larger area and finally planted out in the garden beds.

Fall Crop: 10-12 weeks before first frost date. Broccoli prefers cooler temperatures and does best as a fall crop, growing and heading up best at about 65˚ F. It is also less bothered by pests in cool weather and the heads stay in peak condition for longer. Mature plants can sit in the garden, ready to harvest, for weeks. They are fairly hardy and can survive frost as low as 20˚ F. Autumn Broccoli should be sown 10 to 12 weeks before the first fall frost date, so it is close to maturity by the time cold weather hits. If you are growing a lot of Broccoli for freezing, you should plant it at the optimal time, which is late summer. This also means you won't have to keep it frozen all summer. Though Broccoli is usually transplanted, it can also be direct sown. This works out best for an autumn crop, as the soil is warm in late summer and germination will be rapid.

1. Simply plant twice as many seeds as you need plants, at a depth of ½˝.
2. Thin to the required spacing when they have their first set of true leaves. Of course you will probably have problems with pests when direct sowing at this time of year.

Space Saving Alternative: In warmer weather Broccoli transplants can be started in an outdoor nursery bed. This is better than direct sowing in that they don’t take up any bed space for the first month or two of their lives.

1. The seeds are sown in a small, protected area of soil, pricked out into a slightly larger area and finally planted out in the garden beds.

Support: No

The plants need looking after carefully. If there is a slow down or interruption in growth they may bolt prematurely.

Water Needs: Moderate. Broccoli transpires quite a lot of water and for optimal growth the soil should be moist at all times. This isn't usually a problem because it grows in fairly cool weather. Watering, regularly. Water, 1 gallon(s) per plant, regularly, 1 time a week For optimal growth the soil must be moist at all times. Fortunately it grows in fairly cool weather, so watering isn’t usually a problem. In dry conditions or hot weather it is critical that the plants receive sufficient moisture. A lack of water may cause the plants to bolt. 1 gallon of water per plant should be enough, but use more if necessary.

Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.

Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Like most members of the cabbage family, Broccoli is a hungry plant and needs plenty of nutrients for good growth. It doesn't like acid soil.

Side Dressing, after Transplanting: Compost tea, 1 cup(s) per plant, after transplanting, 1 time. If your soil is less than ideal, give your transplants a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp, 2 weeks after planting out. This will encourage rapid vegetative growth.

Weeding, after Transplanting: after transplanting, 1 time a week Competition from weeds can cause the plants to bolt, so keep them well weeded when small. A mulch will help here as well. When they are 12" tall you don't need to continue weeding as regularly.

Side Dressing, when 4" tall: Mulch, 2", when 4" tall, 1 time. A mulch will help to keep down weeds and keep the soil cool in warm weather. Broccoli loves seaweed mulch. If slugs and snails are a significant problem in your garden, don't mulch as it makes a perfect habitat for them.

Protecting, at early fruit set: Row cover(s), 1 layer(s), at early fruit set, 1 time. You can avoid the most serious Cabbage pests by covering the young plants with row cover. This is a lot of work though, so don't do it unless they become a problem.

Side Dressing, before harvest: Compost tea, 2 cup(s) per plant, before harvest, 1 time. Two weeks before harvest you might give them another feed of compost tea to encourage the production of side shoots.

Support: No

Harvesting

Ripening: Broccoli is edible after the florets have separated and even when some of the flowers have opened, but it's not as good. Flavor improves with cooler temperatures. Use shade fabric to extend summer harvests.

Storage

For longer term storage Broccoli freezes well.

Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: days

Broccoli is best eaten as soon as possible, as it is quite perishable. It may keep up to a week or so in a plastic bag in the fridge.

Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 3-7 days

Broccoli usually self-incompatible and must be cross-pollinated by insects. This means there must be a number of plants flowering at the same time. All of the Brassica oleracea crops are the same species and will cross with each other. To maintain purity you have to ensure that only one type flowers at once. The alternative is to isolate them, either by distance (1000 yards for different varieties, 1500 yards for different crops), or by caging them (don't forget they need insects for pollination). Save the seed from at least 5 plants to maintain some genetic diversity.

Seed is produced in long pods and should be gathered when the older bottom pods first start to split open. Watch them carefully as they shatter easily when they are fully ripe. Cut the seedpod bearing stems and dry them in a warm place (I put small quantities in a paper grocery bag so I don't lose any seeds). The large seeds are easily handled and cleaned. Of course it is essential that they are thoroughly dry before storage.

Broccoli Raab will cross with Chinese cabbage, turnips, some rapeseed (canola) and other plants in the same species.Isolate
by 1/8 mile for home use. For pure seed of small plantings isolate by 1/4 to 1/2 mile.

Seed Viability in Years: 3-4 years
Germination Percentage: 75%

Culinary

Taste:
Delicious, deep flavor, can be eaten raw, steamed or cooked and stir-fried.

Culinary Use:
Broccoli can be steamed or sauteed and served by itself or with other vegetables. It should be steamed before sauteing or stir-frying. Raw broccoli is very popular when accompanied by a dipping sauce, and is often served with other raw vegetables. Broccoli rosettes can be cut from the stems and then the rosette and the cut stems can be cooked separately and served together. Steamed broccoli with butter, or sauteed broccoli in olive oil with garlic and finished with a squeeze of lemon are two of the more common ways of serving broccoli, and each is a great base from which many variations can be made. The stalks are just as delicious as the flowers, so try chopping them into 1/4" pieces with your flowers.

Young flowering stems and leaves: raw or cooked. The shoots of sprouting broccoli are harvested when about 10 cm long, and before the flowers open, the shoots look somewhat like a small white or purple cauliflower and have a delicious flavor. They are considered to be a gourmet vegetable. When picking the stems, make sure that you leave behind a section of the stem with leaves on it, since the plants will often produce new side shoots from the leaf axils. Calabrese and Romanesco plants produce a central inflorescence rather like a small cauliflower, which are sometimes followed by a number of smaller flowering shoots. They usually come into bearing in the late summer or autumn and are very productive if they are regularly harvested. Sprouting broccoli plants come into production in late winter to early spring and can be very heavy bearing over a period of two months or more so long as all the flowering stems are harvested before coming into flower.

Companion Planting

Companions: Basil, Bush Beans, Cucumber, Dill, Garlic, Hyssop, Lettuce, Marigold, Mint, Nasturtium, Onion, Potato, Radish, Rosemary, Sage, Thyme and Tomato. Celery, onions and potatoes improve broccoli's flavor when planted near it. Broccoli loves plenty of calcium. Pairing it with plants that need little calcium is a good combination such as nasturtiums and beets as this frees up the calcium in the soil for the broccoli. Put the nasturtiums right under the broccoli plants. Herbs such as rosemary, dill and sage help repel pests with their distinct aromas.

Enemies: Grapes, strawberries, mustard and rue.

Problems

Potential insect problems include cabbageworms, cabbage loopers, flea beetles, caterpillars, thrips, slugs and aphids. Root maggots may be a problem in some areas. Watch for leaf spots, blackleg, black rot and yellows.

Cabbageworms

Beneficial insects such as Braconid Wasps, Birds, Damsel Bugs, Tachinid Flies, and Yellow Jacket Wasps all prey on Cabbageworms.

Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.

To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.

Damsel Bugs: Prey on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Potato Beetles, and Cabbage Worms.

To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Tachinid Flies: Prey on Cabbageworms, Gypsy Moths, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetle, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.

To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: carrots, dill, coriander, and buckwheat.

Yellow Jacket Wasps: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.

Cabbage Loopers

Beneficial insects such as Ladybugs, Minute Pirate Bugs, and Spiders all prey on Cabbage Loopers.

Flea Beetles

Beneficial insects such as Braconid wasps, Tachinid flies, Lacewings larvae, Damsel bugs, and Big Eyed Bug all prey on Flea Beetles.

Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.

To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.

Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.

To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.

Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.

To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.

Damsel Bugs: Preys on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Flea beetles, Potato beetles, and Cabbage worms.

To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Big-eyed Bugs: Preys on Aphids, small Caterpillars and Caterpillar eggs, Flea beetles, Fleahoppers, Lygus bugs, Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies.

To attract Big-Eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Caterpillars

Beneficial insects such as Assassin Bugs, Big Eyed Bugs, Braconid Wasps, Damsel Bugs, Ground Beetles, Hoverflies, Lacewings, Minute Pirate Bugs, and Preying Mantis all prey on Caterpillars.

Assassin Bugs: Preys on Aphids, leafhoppers, asparagus beetle eggs and larvae, small flying insects, and up to medium-sized caterpillars.

To attract Assassin Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Most garden plants, field crops, ornamental trees and shrubs. Spined assassin bugs are often found on goldenrod and other wildflowers.

Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.

To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Braconid Wasps: prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.

To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.

Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.

To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.

To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.

Hoverflies: Prey on aphids, scale insects, caterpillars, and Thrips.

To attract Hoverflies to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea ﬁlipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa ofﬁcinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda ﬁstulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys ofﬁcinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).

Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.

To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea ﬁlipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunﬂower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum ofﬁcinale).

Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.

To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Praying Mantis: Preys on a wide range including caterpillars, moths, beetles, and crickets.

To attract Praying Mantis to your garden you will need to grow: tall grasses and shrubs, cosmos, marigolds, and dills.

Thrips

Beneficial insects such as Big-eyed Bugs, Hoverflies, and Minute Pirate Bugs all prey on Thrips.

Big-eyed Bugs: Prey on Aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies.

To attract Big-eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Hoverflies: Preys on Aphids, Scale insects, Caterpillars, and Thrips.

To attract Hoverflies to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea ﬁlipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa ofﬁcinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda ﬁstulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys ofﬁcinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).

Minute Pirate Bugs: Prey on Spider Mites, Cabbage Looper, Insect Eggs, Caterpillars, Aphids, and Thrips.

To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Plants that attract Minute Pirate Bugs are: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Slugs

Beneficial insects such as earwigs and ground beetles prey on Slugs.

Earwig: prey on Slugs and Snails.

To attract Earwigs to your garden you will need to grow: Celery (Apium graveolens), Beets (Beta vulgaris, Cabbages, Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea/Brassica rapa), Cucumber (Cucumis sativus), Dahlia, Carrot (Daucus carota), Carnation (Dianthus), Carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus), Strawberry (Fragaria ananassa), Hop (Humulus lupulus), Lettuce (Lactuca sativa), Lupin (Lupinus angustifolius), Apple (Malus domestica), Apricot (Prunus armeniaca), Sweet Cherry (Prunus avium), Plum (Prunus domestica), Peach (Prunus persica), European Pear (Pyrus communis), Rhubarb (Rheum hybridum), Roses (Rosa), Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum), Potato (Solanum tuberosum), Grapevine (Vitis vinifera), Corn (Zea mays), Zinnia.

Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado Potato Beetles, and Cutworms.

To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: Evening Primrose, Amaranthus, and Clover.

Aphids

Beneficial insects such as Ladybugs, Collops Beetle, Soldier Beetles, Long-legged Flies, Hover Flies, Predaceous Midges, Damsel Bugs, Big-eyed Bugs, Minute Pirate Bugs, Lacewings, Parasitic Wasps,
Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.

Ladybeetles, Ladybugs, or Ladybird Beetles: Ladybeetles are probably the most well-known of beetles that eat aphids. There are many species, and both the adults and larvae eat aphids. Convergent lady beetles and the seven-spotted ladybeetles are abundant species in the environment. Eggs are found in clutches, yellow and football shaped. Larvae have an alligator-like appearance, and are black with orange markings. Pupae are sedentary. Ladybeetles are commercially available but purchasing is not generally recommended since the adult stage tends to fly away once released. Introductions may be more effective in greenhouses and high tunnels. Diverse plantings can help recruit resident ladybeetles to an area.

To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.

Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.

Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.

Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.

Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.

Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.

To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea ﬁlipendulina), Common yarrow
(Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), \Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa ofﬁcinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda ﬁstulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys ofﬁcinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).

Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.

Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.

To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.

To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.

To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.

To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea ﬁlipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunﬂower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum ofﬁcinale).

Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.

Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.

Nutrition

The flower heads are rich in vitamins A and C, calcium, iron, potassium and folate. It is considered one of the very best anti-cancer vegetables, as it contains a whole range of beneficial phytochemicals, glucosinolates, luteine sulfuraphane and isothiocyanin. All of the cruciferous vegetables are very good for improving and maintaining liver health.

Health Benefits of Broccoli

Cancer: Broccoli may prove to be a natural wonder drug for many types of cancer, including breast cancer, cancer of the uterus, prostate cancer, and cancers of various internal organs like the lungs, colon, liver, kidneys, and the intestines. That being said, it is particularly beneficial for breast cancer and uterine cancer, since it removes extra estrogen from the body. This is due to the presence of strong anti-carcinogenic compounds like glucoraphanin, diindolylmethane, beta-carotene, selenium and other nutrients like vitamin C, vitamin A and vitamin E, zinc, potassium and certain amino acids, which are also good anti-cancer agents.

Detoxification: The presence of vitamin-C, sulphur and certain amino acids make broccoli a very good detoxifier. Broccoli helps to remove free radicals and toxins like uric acid from the body, thereby purifying the blood and keeping away problems related to toxins such as boils, itches, rashes, gout, arthritis, rheumatism, renal calculi, skin diseases like eczema and hardening of the skin.

Skin Care: The credit for keeping your skin glowing and young goes to expert antioxidants like beta-carotene and vitamin-C, as well as other helpers like vitamin B complex, vitamin E (the one that gives shine to your skin and hair while reviving skin tissues), vitamin A & K, omega 3 fatty acids (adds glamor), amino acids and folate present in the broccoli. They all help to take very good care of your skin and leave it glowing, healthy, and radiant. Furthermore, glucoraphanin, one of the phytonutrients found in significant amounts in broccoli, has been connected with reversing the negative effects of sun exposure, so you can turn back the clock on your skin by eating plenty of this beneficial vegetable!

Stomach Disorders: Broccoli is very rich in fiber or roughage, the primary dietary ingredient that can cure almost all stomach disorders by curing constipation, since constipation is the root of almost all the stomach disorders. The fiber adds to the bulkiness of the food, retains water and forms healthy bowel movements. The magnesium and the vitamins present in the broccoli also cure acidity, facilitate proper digestion and absorption of nutrients from the food and soothe the stomach by reducing inflammation.

Heart Diseases: Apart from the antioxidants mentioned above, broccoli has a very high fiber content, along with significant levels of beta-carotene, omega-3 fatty acids and other vitamins that help reduce bad cholesterol and keep the heart functioning properly by regulating blood-pressure. When you steam broccoli, studies have shown that the fiber components combine better with bile, making it much easier and efficient to excrete. Reducing bile has a strong impact on cholesterol levels, thereby helping your heart health. Furthermore, the potassium found in broccoli is a vasodilator that can boost blood flow and oxygenation of essential organs by relaxing tension and stress of veins and blood vessels.

Eye Care & Cataracts: Zeaxanthin, beta-carotene, vitamin A, phosphorus and other vitamins such as B complex, C and E found in broccoli are very good for ocular health. These substances protect eyes against macular degeneration and cataracts, while also repairing damage done from by radiation.

Amyotrophic lateral sclerosis: Broccoli is rich in various nutrients such as omega 3 fatty acids. Recent research suggests that intake of diet rich in omega-3 fatty acids may reduce or delay onset of Amyotrophic lateral sclerosis (ALS) also known as Lou Gehrig’s disease.

Immunity: The substances responsible for the green and purple color of broccoli are vitamin C, beta-carotene and other vitamins and minerals, particularly selenium, copper, zinc, phosphorus. There compounds are present in broccoli and are really great immune system strengtheners that can protect you from numerous infections.

Bone Health: Being very rich in calcium (present by 47 mg. per 100 grams) and other nutrients such as magnesium, zinc and phosphorus, eating broccoli can be very beneficial, particularly for children, old people, pregnant women or lactating mothers. That’s because these are the people most prone to osteoporosis, weakening of bones and teeth, and calcium deficiency.

Pregnancy: Since broccoli is so nutritious and is full of nutrients essential for pregnant women, such as proteins, calcium, vitamins, antioxidants, detoxifiers, iron, phosphorus and others, it is an ideal component of any diet for them. Being rich in fiber, this will also eliminate constipation, which is very common during pregnancy. Furthermore, the folate content in broccoli ensures that there are no birth defects, such as neural tube defects, which are a major problem for pregnant mothers who have a folic acid deficiency in their diet.

High Blood Pressure: An important mineral, chromium, found abundantly in broccoli, helps in the proper functioning of insulin and regulates blood sugar, thereby regulating blood pressure as well. Vitamins, which make all our systems function properly and are found in abundance in broccoli, along with fiber and omega-3 fatty acids, help regulate blood pressure even more, so pop some broccoli into your diet for some real heart health protection!

Anemia: Anemia is directly related to a lack of iron and certain proteins. Broccoli is rich in both of these and hence forms an excellent remedy against anemia. Eat them and feel the blood surge powerfully through your body, rich with oxygen to keep your systems functioning at a high level. Copper is also found in broccoli which is another essential mineral in the production of red blood cells, along with iron.

A Few Words of Caution: Although broccoli clearly has a wealth of health benefits associated with it, there is always room for caution. In some people, contact with broccoli can cause an allergic rash, as some of the powerful compounds in the vegetable can be irritating to the skin. Other than that, eat broccoli in moderation, according to proper serving guidelines, and you can start enjoying the health benefits right away!

Source

Suggested Varieties

Amaranth: Love Lies Bleeding (Heirloom) (Amaranthus caudatus)

$1.00 - $5.60

As a decorative flower, Love-Lies-Bleeding grew in many Victorian English gardens; in the language of flowers, it represents hopeless love. In addition to producing lovely flowers, Love-Lies-Bleeding is a form of the grain-producing plant known as amaranth. A staple grain for the Aztecs and Incas, amaranth was referred to as the "golden grain of the gods" and used in religious rituals. The plant nearly died out when the Spanish Conquistadors declared their religious practices barbaric, and made growing amaranth a capital offense. Today, both the leaves and the seeds of amaranth are an important food source in many parts of the world. This unique grain provides an impressive amount of vitamins and minerals, as well as being very rich in protein.