Pea: Sugar Snap (Heirloom) (Pisum sativum)
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Sugar Snap Pea is a native annual vegetable that was bred by Dr. Carl Lamborn who crossed a snow pea with a thick shelled English Pea. The end result was not only the very first varieties of snap pea, but also a sensational pea that was perfect for commercial food processing! This pea was so impressive it won the AAS Gold Medal in 1979! Sugar Snap pea plants can reach the height of 60” and produce green, crisp, thick pods that contain peas that are deliciously sweet!
Scientific Name: Pisum sativum
Ease of Growing: Easy
Grown as: Annual
Days to Maturity: 70 days
Growing Habit: Vine
Hardiness: Hardy. Peas are very frost tolerant.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Spring, Summer, Fall Transplant, Fall
Growing Season: Short
Growing Conditions: Cool, Warm. Peas are cool weather plants, hardy down to 20 degrees (28 degrees F when flowering). They prefer mild temperatures (55 to 75 degrees F) and don't usually set pods above 80 degrees F. In areas with hot summers they are grown as a spring or fall crop (fall planting presents its own problems, however). It is important to plant your peas early, so that they have enough time to mature before the hot weather sets in. Normally the first peas are planted 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost date.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 45°F - 75°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 45°F. Pea seeds will germinate over a wide temperature range, but do so much faster in warm soil. At 40˚F they may take over a month to germinate (if they don’t rot or get eaten in the meantime). At 70˚F they may take only a week. These large nutritious seeds are vulnerable once planted, so you don't want them sitting in the soil for too long. For this reason it's best to wait until the soil is at least 45 degrees and preferably 60 degrees.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Cool). Full sun.
Water: Moderate. Peas should get about one inch of water per week. In cool spring weather peas will usually get enough water from rainfall so you don't have to irrigate. Watering at this time may encourage mildew and can actually reduce yields. If the soil starts to get dry at any time you must start watering. This is particularly important from the time the flowers appear, as water is needed for pod formation and maturation.
Feeder: Light. Low nitrogen. Low potassium. Low phosphorous. Peas aren't very hungry plants.
Suitability: Tolerates light frost
Small Gardens?: Yes
Containers?: Yes. It is possible to grow peas in fairly deep containers (at least 8"), but they won't be very productive. To increase productivity, increase the amount of compost tea you give your plant, especially during flowering and fruiting.
Attracts beneficial insects?: No
Forage: Rabbits.
Plant Height: 60"
Spacing: 2-4" (8 plants per sq. ft.)
Sow Depth: 1-2"
Hardiness Zone: 2-11
Produces: produce green, crisp, thick pods that contain peas that are deliciously sweet!
Ease of Growing: Easy
Grown as: Annual
Days to Maturity: 70 days
Growing Habit: Vine
Hardiness: Hardy. Peas are very frost tolerant.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Spring, Summer, Fall Transplant, Fall
Growing Season: Short
Growing Conditions: Cool, Warm. Peas are cool weather plants, hardy down to 20 degrees (28 degrees F when flowering). They prefer mild temperatures (55 to 75 degrees F) and don't usually set pods above 80 degrees F. In areas with hot summers they are grown as a spring or fall crop (fall planting presents its own problems, however). It is important to plant your peas early, so that they have enough time to mature before the hot weather sets in. Normally the first peas are planted 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost date.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 45°F - 75°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 45°F. Pea seeds will germinate over a wide temperature range, but do so much faster in warm soil. At 40˚F they may take over a month to germinate (if they don’t rot or get eaten in the meantime). At 70˚F they may take only a week. These large nutritious seeds are vulnerable once planted, so you don't want them sitting in the soil for too long. For this reason it's best to wait until the soil is at least 45 degrees and preferably 60 degrees.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Cool). Full sun.
Water: Moderate. Peas should get about one inch of water per week. In cool spring weather peas will usually get enough water from rainfall so you don't have to irrigate. Watering at this time may encourage mildew and can actually reduce yields. If the soil starts to get dry at any time you must start watering. This is particularly important from the time the flowers appear, as water is needed for pod formation and maturation.
Feeder: Light. Low nitrogen. Low potassium. Low phosphorous. Peas aren't very hungry plants.
Suitability: Tolerates light frost
Small Gardens?: Yes
Containers?: Yes. It is possible to grow peas in fairly deep containers (at least 8"), but they won't be very productive. To increase productivity, increase the amount of compost tea you give your plant, especially during flowering and fruiting.
Attracts beneficial insects?: No
Forage: Rabbits.
Plant Height: 60"
Spacing: 2-4" (8 plants per sq. ft.)
Sow Depth: 1-2"
Hardiness Zone: 2-11
Produces: produce green, crisp, thick pods that contain peas that are deliciously sweet!
Soil Preparation
Soil Preference:
Soil pH: 5.5-7.5, Ideal 6.0-6.5. The best soil for peas is a loose well-drained loam. Peas don't need a lot of nitrogen, as they can obtain their own. In fact, if nitrogen is too easily available they won't bother to fix any. Peas do need phosphorus (colloidal phosphate) and potassium (wood ashes), as well as calcium and magnesium (use dolomitic limestone).
If the soil is compacted double digging is beneficial. If it is poorly drained, use raised beds, especially for early plantings, as they don't like wet soil. In very poor soils it may pay to plant your peas in trenches, filled with a mixture of soil and compost.
Soil Preparation:
Standard Mix, 5 pounds per 100 sq. ft., in top 6" of soil, 1 time: A standard mix will provide additional potassium, phosphorus and other nutrients. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Compost (Nitrogen), 2", in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Dig in 2˝ of compost or aged manure (You can apply fresh manure the previous fall and leave it to age over the winter).
Soil pH: 5.5-7.5, Ideal 6.0-6.5. The best soil for peas is a loose well-drained loam. Peas don't need a lot of nitrogen, as they can obtain their own. In fact, if nitrogen is too easily available they won't bother to fix any. Peas do need phosphorus (colloidal phosphate) and potassium (wood ashes), as well as calcium and magnesium (use dolomitic limestone).
If the soil is compacted double digging is beneficial. If it is poorly drained, use raised beds, especially for early plantings, as they don't like wet soil. In very poor soils it may pay to plant your peas in trenches, filled with a mixture of soil and compost.
Soil Preparation:
Standard Mix, 5 pounds per 100 sq. ft., in top 6" of soil, 1 time: A standard mix will provide additional potassium, phosphorus and other nutrients. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
- 4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
- 2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
- 2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
- 1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
- 1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Compost (Nitrogen), 2", in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Dig in 2˝ of compost or aged manure (You can apply fresh manure the previous fall and leave it to age over the winter).
Start indoors
Seed Sowing Depth: 1.0" to 2.0". Sow the seed 1" deep in cold soil, 2" deep in warm soil (where there is more moisture).
Soil temp for germination: 40°F to 85°F, optimal 60°F to 75°F, optimal 75°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 9 (Spring/Summer), 8 to 10 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
8 weeks before last frost date: Peas are traditionally direct sown because they are very hardy, germinate readily and dislike transplanting. However starting them indoors does have its advantages. It allows you to get a very early start on the season, which can help you to get an early harvest. Perhaps more importantly it is easier to protect the germinating seeds indoors, so you lose less to rodents and birds.
Peas don’t like transplanting, so they must be started in individual containers such as cell packs, or soil blocks, to minimize root disturbance.
1. Inoculate them.
2. Plant 1 or 2 seeds per cell, 1" deep.
Peas grow quickly and it is important to get them in the ground before they outgrow the soil in the cell. Don’t keep seedlings indoors any longer than necessary, or they will suffer.
Because peas don't like root disturbance, construct your support system for vining or pole varieties before planting them in the ground.
Germinate:
15 weeks before first frost date: Peas are traditionally direct sown because they are very hardy, germinate readily and dislike transplanting. However starting them indoors does have its advantages. It allows you to get a very early start on the season, which can help you to get an early harvest. Perhaps more importantly it is easier to protect the germinating seeds indoors, so you lose less to rodents and birds.
Peas don’t like transplanting, so they must be started in individual containers such as cell packs, or soil blocks, to minimize root disturbance.
1. Inoculate them.
2. Plant 1 or 2 seeds per cell, 1" deep.
Peas grow quickly and it is important to get them in the ground before they outgrow the soil in the cell. Don’t keep seedlings indoors any longer than necessary, or they will suffer.
Because peas don't like root disturbance, construct your support system for vining or pole varieties before planting them in the ground.
Harden Off: 5 weeks before last frost date: In cold spring weather you should harden off the plants before planting them out.
Soil temp for germination: 40°F to 85°F, optimal 60°F to 75°F, optimal 75°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 9 (Spring/Summer), 8 to 10 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
8 weeks before last frost date: Peas are traditionally direct sown because they are very hardy, germinate readily and dislike transplanting. However starting them indoors does have its advantages. It allows you to get a very early start on the season, which can help you to get an early harvest. Perhaps more importantly it is easier to protect the germinating seeds indoors, so you lose less to rodents and birds.
Peas don’t like transplanting, so they must be started in individual containers such as cell packs, or soil blocks, to minimize root disturbance.
1. Inoculate them.
2. Plant 1 or 2 seeds per cell, 1" deep.
Peas grow quickly and it is important to get them in the ground before they outgrow the soil in the cell. Don’t keep seedlings indoors any longer than necessary, or they will suffer.
Because peas don't like root disturbance, construct your support system for vining or pole varieties before planting them in the ground.
Germinate:
15 weeks before first frost date: Peas are traditionally direct sown because they are very hardy, germinate readily and dislike transplanting. However starting them indoors does have its advantages. It allows you to get a very early start on the season, which can help you to get an early harvest. Perhaps more importantly it is easier to protect the germinating seeds indoors, so you lose less to rodents and birds.
Peas don’t like transplanting, so they must be started in individual containers such as cell packs, or soil blocks, to minimize root disturbance.
1. Inoculate them.
2. Plant 1 or 2 seeds per cell, 1" deep.
Peas grow quickly and it is important to get them in the ground before they outgrow the soil in the cell. Don’t keep seedlings indoors any longer than necessary, or they will suffer.
Because peas don't like root disturbance, construct your support system for vining or pole varieties before planting them in the ground.
Harden Off: 5 weeks before last frost date: In cold spring weather you should harden off the plants before planting them out.
Transplant Outdoors
11-12 weeks before first frost date: It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure before you plant seedlings, so you don’t disturb the young plants later. Peas grow quickly and it is important to get them in the ground before they outgrow the soil in the cell. Don’t keep seedlings indoors any longer than necessary, or they will suffer. Plant out the transplants carefully, making sure the root ball doesn't fall apart when you take them out of the cell pack.
4 weeks before last frost date: It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure before you plant seedlings, so you don’t disturb the young plants later. Peas grow quickly and it is important to get them in the ground before they outgrow the soil in the cell. Don’t keep seedlings indoors any longer than necessary, or they will suffer. Plant out the transplants carefully, making sure the root ball doesn't fall apart when you take them out of the cell pack.
Cool, Warm: Peas are cool weather plants, hardy down to 20 degrees (28 degrees F when flowering). They prefer mild temperatures (55 to 75 degrees F) and don't usually set pods above 80 degrees F. In areas with hot summers they are grown as a spring or fall crop (fall planting presents its own problems, however). It is important to plant your peas early, so that they have enough time to mature before the hot weather sets in. Normally the first peas are planted 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost date.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Pea seeds will germinate over a wide temperature range, but do so much faster in warm soil. At 40˚F they may take over a month to germinate (if they don’t rot or get eaten in the meantime). At 70˚F they may take only a week. These large nutritious seeds are vulnerable once planted, so you don't want them sitting in the soil for too long. For this reason it's best to wait until the soil is at least 45 degrees and preferably 60 degrees.
Spacing: 2.0"-4.0", 8 plants per sq ft. Intensive: Pole varieties are commonly planted in rows because it is easier to support them. They are best planted in double offset rows, with 3" between the plants and 6" between the rows. You can get two of these double rows in a 5-foot wide bed (space them 24 - 30" apart).
Support: At planting. It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure before you plant your seed, so you don't disturb the young plants later. Whatever support you decide upon, it must be sufficiently tall and strong to support the plants. The tangled full size vines and their load of peas can weigh quite a lot (especially when wet or when the wind is blowing).
Pole peas climb by means of slender tendrils and can't grow up thick poles. This means they need a different kind of support from beans. A pea tendril will take about an hour to curl around a slender twig. Chicken wire (or any stiff wire) also works well, either as a fence or a cage of some kind. You can also use a trellis, which can later be used for cucumbers or melons. If you are creative, you can rig up something from poles and string or netting.
Large tomato cages (which aren't needed so early in the season) can work well with Bush Peas.
In England, peas were traditionally supported on stems from hazel shrubs, but any brushwood will do (fruit tree prunings are good). They were trimmed to a flat two dimensional plane and the butt ends were pushed firmly into the ground.
4 weeks before last frost date: It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure before you plant seedlings, so you don’t disturb the young plants later. Peas grow quickly and it is important to get them in the ground before they outgrow the soil in the cell. Don’t keep seedlings indoors any longer than necessary, or they will suffer. Plant out the transplants carefully, making sure the root ball doesn't fall apart when you take them out of the cell pack.
Cool, Warm: Peas are cool weather plants, hardy down to 20 degrees (28 degrees F when flowering). They prefer mild temperatures (55 to 75 degrees F) and don't usually set pods above 80 degrees F. In areas with hot summers they are grown as a spring or fall crop (fall planting presents its own problems, however). It is important to plant your peas early, so that they have enough time to mature before the hot weather sets in. Normally the first peas are planted 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost date.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Pea seeds will germinate over a wide temperature range, but do so much faster in warm soil. At 40˚F they may take over a month to germinate (if they don’t rot or get eaten in the meantime). At 70˚F they may take only a week. These large nutritious seeds are vulnerable once planted, so you don't want them sitting in the soil for too long. For this reason it's best to wait until the soil is at least 45 degrees and preferably 60 degrees.
Spacing: 2.0"-4.0", 8 plants per sq ft. Intensive: Pole varieties are commonly planted in rows because it is easier to support them. They are best planted in double offset rows, with 3" between the plants and 6" between the rows. You can get two of these double rows in a 5-foot wide bed (space them 24 - 30" apart).
Support: At planting. It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure before you plant your seed, so you don't disturb the young plants later. Whatever support you decide upon, it must be sufficiently tall and strong to support the plants. The tangled full size vines and their load of peas can weigh quite a lot (especially when wet or when the wind is blowing).
Pole peas climb by means of slender tendrils and can't grow up thick poles. This means they need a different kind of support from beans. A pea tendril will take about an hour to curl around a slender twig. Chicken wire (or any stiff wire) also works well, either as a fence or a cage of some kind. You can also use a trellis, which can later be used for cucumbers or melons. If you are creative, you can rig up something from poles and string or netting.
Large tomato cages (which aren't needed so early in the season) can work well with Bush Peas.
In England, peas were traditionally supported on stems from hazel shrubs, but any brushwood will do (fruit tree prunings are good). They were trimmed to a flat two dimensional plane and the butt ends were pushed firmly into the ground.
Start outdoors
When Cool, Warm: Peas are cool weather plants, hardy down to 20 degrees (28 degrees F when flowering). They prefer mild temperatures (55 to 75 degrees F) and don't usually set pods above 80 degrees F. In areas with hot summers they are grown as a spring or fall crop (fall planting presents its own problems, however). It is important to plant your peas early, so that they have enough time to mature before the hot weather sets in. Normally the first peas are planted 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost date.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Pea seeds will germinate over a wide temperature range, but do so much faster in warm soil. At 40˚F they may take over a month to germinate (if they don’t rot or get eaten in the meantime). At 70˚F they may take only a week. These large nutritious seeds are vulnerable once planted, so you don't want them sitting in the soil for too long. For this reason it's best to wait until the soil is at least 45 degrees and preferably 60 degrees.
Seed Depth: 1.0"-2.0". Sow the seed 1" deep in cold soil, 2" deep in warm soil (where there is more moisture).
Spacing: 2.0"-4.0", 8 plants per sq ft. Intensive: Pole varieties are commonly planted in rows because it is easier to support them. They are best planted in double offset rows, with 3" between the plants and 6" between the rows. You can get two of these double rows in a 5-foot wide bed (space them 24 - 30" apart).
Spring Crop:
2-4 weeks before last frost date: Peas can be started quite early if the soil is warm enough for good germination (at least 40˚ F though preferably 60˚ F). If it is too cold they will just sit and rot (or be eaten by rodents or birds). You can speed up the warming of the soil with plastic mulch, or cloches, before planting. It is important to plant your peas early, so that they have enough time to mature before hot weather sets in. Normally the first Peas are planted 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost date. You can speed up germination somewhat by pre-soaking the seeds overnight before sowing. The best way to do this is to put them between moist paper towels. Soaking them in a bowl of water can cause them to absorb water too rapidly and may actually injure them. You can also pre-germinate the seeds, to improve emergence in cold soils. Sprout the seeds on paper towels in a warm place and plant them out as soon as the roots appear (don’t wait too long).
Inoculation: The nitrogen fixing bacteria that live in Pea roots can survive in the soil for 3 to 5 years. If you haven’t grown Peas within that time, you should inoculate your seeds with a commercial inoculant. This can make a big difference to the amount of nitrogen that is fixed. This in turn may increase the yield of pods by as much as 75%.
Planting:
1. Inoculate peas.
2. Lay out the seeds 6" apart on the surface at the required spacing.
3. When you are happy with the arrangement, push the seeds down to the proper depth with your finger.
4. In early spring, when the soil is cold, plant your peas 1˝ deep.
Summer Crop:
4-18 weeks after last frost date: In cool climates you can grow peas right through the summer.
1. Inoculate peas
2. Lay out the seeds 6" apart on the surface at the required spacing.
3. When you are happy with the spacing, just push the seeds down to the proper depth with your finger.
4. In warm soil you can plant them 2˝ deep (where it is cooler and more evenly moist).
It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure before (or immediately after) you plant the seed, so you don’t disturb the young plants later.
Inoculation: The nitrogen fixing bacteria that live in Pea roots can survive in the soil for 3 to 5 years. If you haven’t grown Peas within that time, you should inoculate your seeds with a commercial inoculant. This can make a big difference to the amount of nitrogen that is fixed. This in turn may increase the yield of pods by as much as 75%.
Fall Crop:
8-12 weeks before first frost date: Plant a fall crop 8 to 12 weeks before the first fall frost, so they mature in cool weather. The seed may also be sown in autumn for an early spring crop, though it should be protected with mulch over the winter.
1. Inoculate peas
2. Lay out the seeds 6" apart on the surface at the required spacing.
3. When you are happy with the spacing, just push the seeds down to the proper depth with your finger.
4. In warm soil you can plant them 2˝ deep (where it is cooler and more evenly moist).
It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure immediately after planting your seed (or even before), so you don’t disturb the young plants later.
Inoculation: The nitrogen fixing bacteria that live in Pea roots can survive in the soil for 3 to 5 years. If you haven’t grown Peas within that time, you should inoculate your seeds with a commercial inoculant. This can make a big difference to the amount of nitrogen that is fixed. This in turn may increase the yield of pods by as much as 75%.
Support:
At planting: It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure before you plant your seed, so you don't disturb the young plants later. Whatever support you decide upon, it must be sufficiently tall and strong to support the plants. The tangled full size vines and their load of peas can weigh quite a lot (especially when wet or when the wind is blowing).
Pole peas climb by means of slender tendrils and can't grow up thick poles. This means they need a different kind of support from beans. A pea tendril will take about an hour to curl around a slender twig. Chicken wire (or any stiff wire) also works well, either as a fence or a cage of some kind. You can also use a trellis, which can later be used for cucumbers or melons. If you are creative, you can rig up something from poles and string or netting.
Large tomato cages (which aren't needed so early in the season) can work well with Bush Peas.
In England, peas were traditionally supported on stems from hazel shrubs, but any brushwood will do (fruit tree prunings are good). They were trimmed to a flat two dimensional plane and the butt ends were pushed firmly into the ground.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Pea seeds will germinate over a wide temperature range, but do so much faster in warm soil. At 40˚F they may take over a month to germinate (if they don’t rot or get eaten in the meantime). At 70˚F they may take only a week. These large nutritious seeds are vulnerable once planted, so you don't want them sitting in the soil for too long. For this reason it's best to wait until the soil is at least 45 degrees and preferably 60 degrees.
Seed Depth: 1.0"-2.0". Sow the seed 1" deep in cold soil, 2" deep in warm soil (where there is more moisture).
Spacing: 2.0"-4.0", 8 plants per sq ft. Intensive: Pole varieties are commonly planted in rows because it is easier to support them. They are best planted in double offset rows, with 3" between the plants and 6" between the rows. You can get two of these double rows in a 5-foot wide bed (space them 24 - 30" apart).
Spring Crop:
2-4 weeks before last frost date: Peas can be started quite early if the soil is warm enough for good germination (at least 40˚ F though preferably 60˚ F). If it is too cold they will just sit and rot (or be eaten by rodents or birds). You can speed up the warming of the soil with plastic mulch, or cloches, before planting. It is important to plant your peas early, so that they have enough time to mature before hot weather sets in. Normally the first Peas are planted 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost date. You can speed up germination somewhat by pre-soaking the seeds overnight before sowing. The best way to do this is to put them between moist paper towels. Soaking them in a bowl of water can cause them to absorb water too rapidly and may actually injure them. You can also pre-germinate the seeds, to improve emergence in cold soils. Sprout the seeds on paper towels in a warm place and plant them out as soon as the roots appear (don’t wait too long).
Inoculation: The nitrogen fixing bacteria that live in Pea roots can survive in the soil for 3 to 5 years. If you haven’t grown Peas within that time, you should inoculate your seeds with a commercial inoculant. This can make a big difference to the amount of nitrogen that is fixed. This in turn may increase the yield of pods by as much as 75%.
Planting:
1. Inoculate peas.
2. Lay out the seeds 6" apart on the surface at the required spacing.
3. When you are happy with the arrangement, push the seeds down to the proper depth with your finger.
4. In early spring, when the soil is cold, plant your peas 1˝ deep.
Summer Crop:
4-18 weeks after last frost date: In cool climates you can grow peas right through the summer.
1. Inoculate peas
2. Lay out the seeds 6" apart on the surface at the required spacing.
3. When you are happy with the spacing, just push the seeds down to the proper depth with your finger.
4. In warm soil you can plant them 2˝ deep (where it is cooler and more evenly moist).
It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure before (or immediately after) you plant the seed, so you don’t disturb the young plants later.
Inoculation: The nitrogen fixing bacteria that live in Pea roots can survive in the soil for 3 to 5 years. If you haven’t grown Peas within that time, you should inoculate your seeds with a commercial inoculant. This can make a big difference to the amount of nitrogen that is fixed. This in turn may increase the yield of pods by as much as 75%.
Fall Crop:
8-12 weeks before first frost date: Plant a fall crop 8 to 12 weeks before the first fall frost, so they mature in cool weather. The seed may also be sown in autumn for an early spring crop, though it should be protected with mulch over the winter.
1. Inoculate peas
2. Lay out the seeds 6" apart on the surface at the required spacing.
3. When you are happy with the spacing, just push the seeds down to the proper depth with your finger.
4. In warm soil you can plant them 2˝ deep (where it is cooler and more evenly moist).
It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure immediately after planting your seed (or even before), so you don’t disturb the young plants later.
Inoculation: The nitrogen fixing bacteria that live in Pea roots can survive in the soil for 3 to 5 years. If you haven’t grown Peas within that time, you should inoculate your seeds with a commercial inoculant. This can make a big difference to the amount of nitrogen that is fixed. This in turn may increase the yield of pods by as much as 75%.
Support:
At planting: It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure before you plant your seed, so you don't disturb the young plants later. Whatever support you decide upon, it must be sufficiently tall and strong to support the plants. The tangled full size vines and their load of peas can weigh quite a lot (especially when wet or when the wind is blowing).
Pole peas climb by means of slender tendrils and can't grow up thick poles. This means they need a different kind of support from beans. A pea tendril will take about an hour to curl around a slender twig. Chicken wire (or any stiff wire) also works well, either as a fence or a cage of some kind. You can also use a trellis, which can later be used for cucumbers or melons. If you are creative, you can rig up something from poles and string or netting.
Large tomato cages (which aren't needed so early in the season) can work well with Bush Peas.
In England, peas were traditionally supported on stems from hazel shrubs, but any brushwood will do (fruit tree prunings are good). They were trimmed to a flat two dimensional plane and the butt ends were pushed firmly into the ground.
Peas are cool weather plants, hardy down to 20 degrees F (28 degrees F when flowering). They prefer mild temperatures (60 to 75 degrees F) and don't usually set pods above 80 degrees F. In areas with hot summers they are grown as a spring or fall crop (fall planting presents its own problems however).
As a cool weather spring crop they can be out of the ground by June, leaving time for a warm weather crop to succeed them.
Water Needs: Moderate. Peas should get about one inch of water per week. In cool spring weather peas will usually get enough water from rainfall so you don't have to irrigate. Watering at this time may encourage mildew and can actually reduce yields. If the soil starts to get dry at any time you must start watering. This is particularly important from the time the flowers appear, as water is needed for pod formation and maturation.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Low nitrogen. Low potassium. Low phosphorous. Peas aren't very hungry plants.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 inch(es), regularly, 2 times a week. Peas should get about one inch of water per week. In cool spring weather they will usually get enough water from rainfall so you don’t have to irrigate. Watering at this time may encourage mildew and can actually reduce yields. If the soil starts to get dry at any time you must start watering. This is particularly important from the time the flowers appear, as water is needed for pod formation and maturation.
Weeding, after sowing: after sowing, every 3 weeks. Weed the young plants carefully (preferably by hand), to avoid damaging their shallow roots. Older plants are usually vigorous enough (and tall enough) to overwhelm most weeds.
Side Dressing, after planting: Mulch, 2" after planting, 1 time. Optional: Mulch is helpful to keep down weeds, cools the soil and conserves soil moisture.
Side Dressing, before flowering: Compost tea, 5 gallon(s) per 100 sq. ft., before flowering, 1 time
The young plants may benefit from a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp (used as directed).
Support:
At planting:
It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure before you plant your seed, so you don't disturb the young plants later. Whatever support you decide upon, it must be sufficiently tall and strong to support the plants. The tangled full size vines and their load of peas can weigh quite a lot (especially when wet or when the wind is blowing).
Pole peas climb by means of slender tendrils and can't grow up thick poles. This means they need a different kind of support from beans. A pea tendril will take about an hour to curl around a slender twig. Chicken wire (or any stiff wire) also works well, either as a fence or a cage of some kind. You can also use a trellis, which can later be used for cucumbers or melons. If you are creative, you can rig up something from poles and string or netting.
Large tomato cages (which aren't needed so early in the season) can work well with Bush Peas.
In England, peas were traditionally supported on stems from hazel shrubs, but any brushwood will do (fruit tree prunings are good). They were trimmed to a flat two dimensional plane and the butt ends were pushed firmly into the ground.
As a cool weather spring crop they can be out of the ground by June, leaving time for a warm weather crop to succeed them.
Water Needs: Moderate. Peas should get about one inch of water per week. In cool spring weather peas will usually get enough water from rainfall so you don't have to irrigate. Watering at this time may encourage mildew and can actually reduce yields. If the soil starts to get dry at any time you must start watering. This is particularly important from the time the flowers appear, as water is needed for pod formation and maturation.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Low nitrogen. Low potassium. Low phosphorous. Peas aren't very hungry plants.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 inch(es), regularly, 2 times a week. Peas should get about one inch of water per week. In cool spring weather they will usually get enough water from rainfall so you don’t have to irrigate. Watering at this time may encourage mildew and can actually reduce yields. If the soil starts to get dry at any time you must start watering. This is particularly important from the time the flowers appear, as water is needed for pod formation and maturation.
Weeding, after sowing: after sowing, every 3 weeks. Weed the young plants carefully (preferably by hand), to avoid damaging their shallow roots. Older plants are usually vigorous enough (and tall enough) to overwhelm most weeds.
Side Dressing, after planting: Mulch, 2" after planting, 1 time. Optional: Mulch is helpful to keep down weeds, cools the soil and conserves soil moisture.
Side Dressing, before flowering: Compost tea, 5 gallon(s) per 100 sq. ft., before flowering, 1 time
The young plants may benefit from a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp (used as directed).
Support:
At planting:
It is a good idea to erect your supporting structure before you plant your seed, so you don't disturb the young plants later. Whatever support you decide upon, it must be sufficiently tall and strong to support the plants. The tangled full size vines and their load of peas can weigh quite a lot (especially when wet or when the wind is blowing).
Pole peas climb by means of slender tendrils and can't grow up thick poles. This means they need a different kind of support from beans. A pea tendril will take about an hour to curl around a slender twig. Chicken wire (or any stiff wire) also works well, either as a fence or a cage of some kind. You can also use a trellis, which can later be used for cucumbers or melons. If you are creative, you can rig up something from poles and string or netting.
Large tomato cages (which aren't needed so early in the season) can work well with Bush Peas.
In England, peas were traditionally supported on stems from hazel shrubs, but any brushwood will do (fruit tree prunings are good). They were trimmed to a flat two dimensional plane and the butt ends were pushed firmly into the ground.
Harvesting
Ripening:
Picking peas at the right time is almost as important as it is with Sweet Corn. Too early and they are very small, too late and they are starchy and not very good. Snap Peas should be picked after the pods have reached full size, but before the peas start to swell inside. Do not make the common mistake of harvesting smaller pods in the belief they will be better. They will be tender but they won't be very sweet.
When and How: Seed Pods, 1-28 days after maturity.
When: Peas mature quickly after pollination, so you have to check on the plants regularly (every day or so). You must pick the pods when they size up, even if you don’t want to eat them, otherwise production will decline. In cool weather, a well managed planting may yield for as long as 6 weeks, though if the weather turns hot it may be as short as 2 weeks. These should be picked as soon as the Peas reach full size and the pod is nice and fat and round. Taste them to see if they are ready, they should be sweet, crisp and succulent.
How: The pods start to ripen at the base of the plant first. Remove them from the plants carefully, so you don’t damage the vines. Hold the plant with one hand, and pull down on the pod with the other.
If the pods have a string down each side, the best technique is to snap off the pod by bending it to one side. This breaks the pod but not the strings, so if you then pull on the pod, it will peel off the strings and leave them attached to the plant.
Picking peas at the right time is almost as important as it is with Sweet Corn. Too early and they are very small, too late and they are starchy and not very good. Snap Peas should be picked after the pods have reached full size, but before the peas start to swell inside. Do not make the common mistake of harvesting smaller pods in the belief they will be better. They will be tender but they won't be very sweet.
When and How: Seed Pods, 1-28 days after maturity.
When: Peas mature quickly after pollination, so you have to check on the plants regularly (every day or so). You must pick the pods when they size up, even if you don’t want to eat them, otherwise production will decline. In cool weather, a well managed planting may yield for as long as 6 weeks, though if the weather turns hot it may be as short as 2 weeks. These should be picked as soon as the Peas reach full size and the pod is nice and fat and round. Taste them to see if they are ready, they should be sweet, crisp and succulent.
How: The pods start to ripen at the base of the plant first. Remove them from the plants carefully, so you don’t damage the vines. Hold the plant with one hand, and pull down on the pod with the other.
If the pods have a string down each side, the best technique is to snap off the pod by bending it to one side. This breaks the pod but not the strings, so if you then pull on the pod, it will peel off the strings and leave them attached to the plant.
storage
The best way to store peas for any length of time is to freeze them.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
The sugar in peas begins to turn to starch soon after harvesting, so they don’t store well. For this reason they should be used promptly for best flavor. If you have to store them, put them in the fridge in a plastic bag for up to 2 weeks.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-14 days
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
The sugar in peas begins to turn to starch soon after harvesting, so they don’t store well. For this reason they should be used promptly for best flavor. If you have to store them, put them in the fridge in a plastic bag for up to 2 weeks.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-14 days
Peas are one of the easiest crops to save seed from. They are self-pollinating, though a small amount of insect pollination may also occur. Isolate varieties by a minimum of 50' for home use. Ideally you will isolate flowering varieties by at least 150 feet. In dry weather all you have to do is leave the pods to mature and dry on the vine. In wet weather you may have to cut the vines and dry them under cover. When the pods are crisp and brown remove the seeds. These should be dried and stored in a cool dry place.
Seed Viability in Years: 3 - 4 years
Germination Percentage: 80%
Seed Viability in Years: 3 - 4 years
Germination Percentage: 80%
Culinary
Taste:
Delicious, thick-walled, plump pods, excellent flavor. The best flavor of all the snap peas.
Culinary Use:
Green Shell Peas, Snow Peas and Snap Peas are all excellent raw, steamed or stir-fried. The tender growing tips may be eaten raw or cooked. The flowers can be added to salads.
Snap off the ends of the pea and remove the string along the inner spine. The entire pod can be steamed, sauteed, or eaten raw and put in salads. They can be eaten whole or sliced into pieces.
Delicious, thick-walled, plump pods, excellent flavor. The best flavor of all the snap peas.
Culinary Use:
Green Shell Peas, Snow Peas and Snap Peas are all excellent raw, steamed or stir-fried. The tender growing tips may be eaten raw or cooked. The flowers can be added to salads.
Snap off the ends of the pea and remove the string along the inner spine. The entire pod can be steamed, sauteed, or eaten raw and put in salads. They can be eaten whole or sliced into pieces.
Medicinal
The seed is contraceptive, fungistatic and spermicidal. The dried and powdered seed has been used as a poultice on the skin where it has an appreciable affect on many types of skin complaint including acne. The oil from the seed, given once a month to women, has shown promise of preventing pregnancy by interfering with the working of progesterone. The oil inhibits endometrial development. In trials, the oil reduced pregnancy rate in women by 60% in a 2 year period and 50% reduction in male sperm count was achieved.
Project Purity Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting
Allies: Companion gardeners believe this nitrogen fixing legume stimulates the growth of corn, beans, potatoes, tomatoes, radishes, carrots, turnips, and cucumbers. Scientific research indicates that exudates from the roots of cabbage family crops may help prevent pea root rot.
Companions: Grow tomatoes, eggplants, lettuce, or spinach in the shade of trellised pea plants. The pea vines also protect these tender crops from wind damage. Alternate rows of peas with shade tolerant Chinese cabbage.
Enemies: Onions and garlic are reputed to have a negative effect on the growth of peas.
Companions: Grow tomatoes, eggplants, lettuce, or spinach in the shade of trellised pea plants. The pea vines also protect these tender crops from wind damage. Alternate rows of peas with shade tolerant Chinese cabbage.
Enemies: Onions and garlic are reputed to have a negative effect on the growth of peas.
Problems
Powdery mildew and slugs may be occasional problems. Seeds can also rot if planted too early in damp, cold ground.
Slugs
Beneficial insects such as earwigs and ground beetles prey on Slugs.
Earwig: prey on Slugs and Snails.
To attract Earwigs to your garden you will need to grow: Celery (Apium graveolens), Beets (Beta vulgaris, Cabbages, Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea/Brassica rapa), Cucumber (Cucumis sativus), Dahlia, Carrot (Daucus carota), Carnation (Dianthus), Carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus), Strawberry (Fragaria ananassa), Hop (Humulus lupulus), Lettuce (Lactuca sativa), Lupin (Lupinus angustifolius), Apple (Malus domestica), Apricot (Prunus armeniaca), Sweet Cherry (Prunus avium), Plum (Prunus domestica), Peach (Prunus persica), European Pear (Pyrus communis), Rhubarb (Rheum hybridum), Roses (Rosa), Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum), Potato (Solanum tuberosum), Grapevine (Vitis vinifera), Corn (Zea mays), Zinnia.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado Potato Beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: Evening Primrose, Amaranthus, and Clover.
To attract Earwigs to your garden you will need to grow: Celery (Apium graveolens), Beets (Beta vulgaris, Cabbages, Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea/Brassica rapa), Cucumber (Cucumis sativus), Dahlia, Carrot (Daucus carota), Carnation (Dianthus), Carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus), Strawberry (Fragaria ananassa), Hop (Humulus lupulus), Lettuce (Lactuca sativa), Lupin (Lupinus angustifolius), Apple (Malus domestica), Apricot (Prunus armeniaca), Sweet Cherry (Prunus avium), Plum (Prunus domestica), Peach (Prunus persica), European Pear (Pyrus communis), Rhubarb (Rheum hybridum), Roses (Rosa), Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum), Potato (Solanum tuberosum), Grapevine (Vitis vinifera), Corn (Zea mays), Zinnia.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado Potato Beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: Evening Primrose, Amaranthus, and Clover.
Nutrition
Peas contain vitamins C and B6, along with folate, iron and several anti-cancer phytochemicals.
Health benefits of Peas
Weight Management: Peas are low fat but high everything else. A cup of peas has less than 100 calories but lots of protein, fiber and micronutrients.
Stomach cancer prevention: Peas contain high amounts of a health-protective polyphenol called coumestrol. A study in Mexico City determined you only need 2 milligrams per day of this phytonutrient to prevent stomach cancer. A cup of peas has at least 10.
Anti-aging, strong immune system, and high energy: This comes from the high levels of anti-oxidants including:
Prevention of wrinkles, alzheimer’s, arthritis, bronchitis, osteoporosis and candida: These come from peas strong anti-inflammatory properties. Excess inflammation has also been linked to, heart disease, cancer, and aging in general. These properties include:
Blood sugar regulation: High fibre slows and protein slows down how fast sugars are digested. The anti-oxidants and anti-inflammatory prevent or reverse insulin resistance (type 2 diabetes) All carbohydrates are natural sugars and starches with no white sugars or chemicals to worry about.
Heart disease prevention: The many antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compounds support healthy blood vessels. The formation of plaque along our blood vessel walls starts with chronic, excessive oxidative stress and inflammation. The generous amounts of vitamin B1 and folate, B2, B3, and B6 reduce homocysteine levels which are risk factor for heart disease.
Healthy for the environment: Peas work with bacteria in the soil to ‘fix’ nitrogen from the air and deposit it in the soil. This reduces the need for artificial fertilizers since one of their main ingredients is nitrogen. After peas have been harvested the remaining plant easily breaks down to create more organic fertilizer for the soil. Peas are also able to grow on minimal moisture so they are a perfect crop in many areas not needing irrigation or using up valuable water supplies.
Prevent constipation: The high fiber content in peas improves bowel health and peristalsis.
Healthy bones: Just one cup of peas contain 44% of your Vitamin K which helps to anchor calcium inside the bones. It’s B vitamins also help to prevent osteoporosis.
Reduces bad cholesterol: The niacin in peas helps reduce, the production of triglycerides and VLDL (very low-density lipoprotein, which results in in less bad cholesterol, increased HDL (“good”) cholesterol, and lowered triglycerides.
Stomach cancer prevention: Peas contain high amounts of a health-protective polyphenol called coumestrol. A study in Mexico City determined you only need 2 milligrams per day of this phytonutrient to prevent stomach cancer. A cup of peas has at least 10.
Anti-aging, strong immune system, and high energy: This comes from the high levels of anti-oxidants including:
- flavinoids: = catechin and epicatechin
- carotenoid= alpha-carotene and beta-carotene
- phenolic acids = ferulic and caffeic acid
- polyphenols = coumestrol
Prevention of wrinkles, alzheimer’s, arthritis, bronchitis, osteoporosis and candida: These come from peas strong anti-inflammatory properties. Excess inflammation has also been linked to, heart disease, cancer, and aging in general. These properties include:
- Pisumsaponins I and II and pisomosides A and B are anti-inflammatory phytonutrients found almost exclusively in peas.
- vitamin C and vitamin E, and a good amount of the antioxidant mineral zinc
- omega-3 fat in the form of alpha-linolenic acid (ALA).
Blood sugar regulation: High fibre slows and protein slows down how fast sugars are digested. The anti-oxidants and anti-inflammatory prevent or reverse insulin resistance (type 2 diabetes) All carbohydrates are natural sugars and starches with no white sugars or chemicals to worry about.
Heart disease prevention: The many antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compounds support healthy blood vessels. The formation of plaque along our blood vessel walls starts with chronic, excessive oxidative stress and inflammation. The generous amounts of vitamin B1 and folate, B2, B3, and B6 reduce homocysteine levels which are risk factor for heart disease.
Healthy for the environment: Peas work with bacteria in the soil to ‘fix’ nitrogen from the air and deposit it in the soil. This reduces the need for artificial fertilizers since one of their main ingredients is nitrogen. After peas have been harvested the remaining plant easily breaks down to create more organic fertilizer for the soil. Peas are also able to grow on minimal moisture so they are a perfect crop in many areas not needing irrigation or using up valuable water supplies.
Prevent constipation: The high fiber content in peas improves bowel health and peristalsis.
Healthy bones: Just one cup of peas contain 44% of your Vitamin K which helps to anchor calcium inside the bones. It’s B vitamins also help to prevent osteoporosis.
Reduces bad cholesterol: The niacin in peas helps reduce, the production of triglycerides and VLDL (very low-density lipoprotein, which results in in less bad cholesterol, increased HDL (“good”) cholesterol, and lowered triglycerides.
Suggested Varieties
Amaranth: Love Lies Bleeding (Heirloom) (Amaranthus caudatus)
$1.00 - $5.60
As a decorative flower, Love-Lies-Bleeding grew in many Victorian English gardens; in the language of flowers, it represents hopeless love. In addition to producing lovely flowers, Love-Lies-Bleeding is a form of the grain-producing plant known as amaranth. A staple grain for the Aztecs and Incas, amaranth was referred to as the "golden grain of the gods" and used in religious rituals. The plant nearly died out when the Spanish Conquistadors declared their religious practices barbaric, and made growing amaranth a capital offense. Today, both the leaves and the seeds of amaranth are an important food source in many parts of the world. This unique grain provides an impressive amount of vitamins and minerals, as well as being very rich in protein.
Amaranth: Perfecta (Heirloom) (Amaranthus Tricolor 'Perfecta')
$1.00 - $5.60
This fast-growing, heat-loving plant originated in tropical Asia, where it is widely cultivated as a leaf vegetable. It bears large, elliptic or oval leaves on erect stems. The brightly hued new leaves fade gradually to medium green with deep maroon markings. This cultivar is spectacular from summer to frost. Insignificant clusters of green or reddish flowers appear at the stem tips and in the leaf axils in summer. Small capsules containing a single brown or black seed follow the flowers.
Amaranth: Red Garnet (Heirloom) (Amaranthus tricolor)
$1.00 - $5.60
Amaranth had a sacred status in the ancient civilizations of the Aztecs and Incas, since the grain was used in various religious rituals. It remains a staple food in modern Mexico and some parts of Asia, being prepared in numerous dishes from sweet to savory. One traditional Mexican treat known as "alegria" is made with amaranth grain and honey or molasses. A super grain, amaranth can be used for gluten free flour; it also makes a complete protein when mixed with another grain. In addition, amaranth greens have a higher iron content than any other green vegetable except parsley, as well as containing many valuable vitamins and minerals.
Beans: Black Turtle (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
In colonial America, black beans were not appreciated because of their unappealing color. As a result, the Black Turtle bean was advertised as an affordable substitute for turtle in the making of turtle soup, a delicacy during that time in history. Black beans originate in South America; some historians fix the date as far back as 8,000 BC to the Pre-Incan civilization in Peru. People from this time valued dry beans because of their long lasting freshness in storage. Black beans are a favorite in Latin American cooking for use in soups, sauces, and main dishes.
Beans: Blue Lake Bush #274 (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
Named for the Blue Lake District near Ukiah, CA, where they first developed in 1961, these world famous beans set the standard for bush beans. The canning industry first widely used Blue Lake beans because of their excellence when canned, but they soon became known and loved all over the United States. Blue Lake beans stand on the top of the list of gourmet cooks and gardeners alike because of their unsurpassed flavor and high yield.
Beans: Contender Bush (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
First offered to gardeners in 1949, Contender comes from a high yielding, disease resistant strain. Originally, the common bean comes from South America; some historians fix the date as far back as 8,000 BC to the Pre-Incan civilization in Peru. When Columbus arrived in the New World, he found green beans growing with the maize of the Indians. Columbus and other European explorers introduced this new vegetable to their countries, where it eventually spread to the rest of Europe and all over the world.
Beans: Gold Rush Yellow Wax (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
The vegetable we now recognize as the common bean has its roots in South America; some historians fix the date as far back as 8,000 BC to the Pre-Incan civilization in Peru. When Columbus arrived in the New World, he found green beans growing with the maize of the Indians. Columbus and other European explorers introduced this new vegetable to their countries, where it eventually spread to the rest of Europe and all over the world.
Beans: Kentucky Wonder Pole (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
First appearing in the late 1800's, Kentucky Wonder Pole beans are descended from an old variety of pole bean called Texas Pole. When first introduced, Kentucky Wonder had the name of Old Homestead. In 1877, James J. H. Gregory & Sons made it available in their catalog. It immediately became widely popular for its flat, stringless pods that could be eaten fresh or dried for soup beans.
Beans: Lazy Housewife Pole (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
2015 Bean of the Year. Brought to America by German immigrants and first listed in W. Atlee Burpee’s 1888 catalog. These beans were so-named because they were the first beans to not require destringing! Originally cultivated in Central America, from Mexico to Peru, Bolivia and Argentina. The smaller beans are thought to have been cultivated in Mexico as long as 7,000 years ago, while the larger beans were cultivated in Peru starting 8,000 years ago. High in protein, easy to grow, dry and cook, they have sustained mankind for millennia.
Beans: Pinto (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
The pinto bean has its roots in South America; some historians fix the date as far back as 8,000 BC to the Pre-Incan civilization in Peru. People from this time valued dry beans because of their long lasting freshness in storage. Pinto beans contain the highest amount of fiber of any bean, and are the top choice for Mexican dishes such as refried beans and chile con carne.
Beans: Red Yard Long (Heirloom ) (Vigna unguiculata sesquipedalis)
$1.00 - $5.60
The yard long bean, often known as the Chinese long bean, originates in southern Asia; Carl Linnaeus first noted its presence in the New World in 1763. Actually a member of the cowpea family, they closely resemble green beans with a slightly more intense flavor and denser texture. Yard long beans have been a popular ingredient in Asian stir fries and other vegetable dishes for centuries. These beans also have a loyal following in the Mediterranean region, being known in Napes as "faiolo e maccarone," or "beans and macaroni," because of their noodle-like appearance.
Bean: Royalty Purple Pod Green (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
Royalty Purple Pod Green bean will add beautiful color to your garden with it's purple foliage and purple flowers. The bright purple pods are 5" long, stringless and turn green when cooked. This beautiful bush bean was introduced by Billy Hepler Seed Company in 1957.
Beets: Cylindra (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
Though Cylindra heirloom beets hail from Denmark, beets seem to have originated in the Mediterranean region, where people grew them for thousands of years. Later, beets grew in Germany and Holland and were used as cattle fodder; they were later imported to England for this purpose, but the poor began to raise them for an affordable food source. American colonists later brought them to the New World, where they became a commonly enjoyed food both for their roots and their greens. According to historians, George Washington experimented with beets, cross-pollinating them to create new varieties.
Beets: Detroit Dark Red (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
Detroit Dark Red heirloom beets hail from Ontario, Canada, where a Mr. Reeves developed them from blood turnips. This globular beet first made its appearance in 1892. However, beets seem to have originated in the Mediterranean region, where people grew them for thousands of years. Later, beets grew in Germany and Holland and were used as cattle fodder; they were later imported to England for this purpose, but the poor began to raise them for an affordable food source. American colonists later brought them to the New World, where they became a commonly enjoyed food both for their roots and their greens.
Beets: Golden Detroit (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
Beets seem to have originated in the Mediterranean region, where people grew them for thousands of years. Later, beets grew in Germany and Holland and were used as cattle fodder; they were later imported to England for this purpose, but the poor began to raise them for an affordable food source. American colonists later brought them to the New World, where they became a commonly enjoyed food both for their roots and their greens. According to historians, George Washington experimented with beets, cross-pollinating them to create new varieties.
Cabbage: Early Jersey Wakefield (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
$1.00 - $5.60
The first Early Jersey Wakefield cabbages were raised in 1840 by a man named Francis Brill of Jersey City, New Jersey. Thirty years later, seed companies all over the region offered this seed for sale; growers appreciated its early harvest and small, tender heads.
Cabbage: Late Flat Dutch (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
$1.00 - $5.60
Late Flat Dutch cabbage can be traced back to 1840, when the earliest mention of this variety is found in the seed records of the Netherlands. German immigrants carried the seed with them to America, where it spread; by 1924, it could be found in local seed catalogs such as D. M. Ferry & Company.
Cabbage: Red Acre (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
$1.00 - $5.60
Cabbage is considered one of the oldest cultivated vegetables, since historians trace it back to 4,000 BC in China. The Romans also cultivated it and praised it for its healing qualities; philosophers Pythagoras and Cato both made the lowly cabbage the subject of a book. Jacques Cartier brought the first cabbage to America in 1536. Cabbages were quite popular in colonial America, being pickled and preserved in every possible way to provide food for the winter.
Cabbage, Chinese: Pak Choi (Heirloom) (Brassica rapa var. chinensis)
$1.00 - $5.60
Chinese cabbage dates back to the 15th century in China, when a pharmacologist of the Ming Dynasty considered it nutritionally beneficial. Later it became the main ingredient in kim chi, the national dish of Korea; Japanese soldiers also discovered Chinese cabbage and took it home with them after the war. Americans became familiar with this vegetable in the late 19th century.
Carrots: Chantenay Red Cored (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
Introduced from France in the late 1800s. Blocky, broad-shouldered variety with blunt tip, about 5-1/2" long and 2-1/2" at the shoulder. Deep orange interior. Adaptable to clay and a wide range of soils. A versatile, good winter keeper that is quite tasty, raw or cooked. Stores well in the ground. Becomes sweeter in storage.
Carrots: Cosmic Purple (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The first mention of red, white, and purple carrots can be found in the records of both Afghanistan and Egypt. Yellow carrots, on the other hand, date back to Turkish records from the 900's. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California.
Carrots: Danvers (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The origin of carrots is somewhat obscure, but early records from many civilizations refer to this colorful root. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California. Danvers carrots in particular come from Danvers, Massachusetts, where the Eastern States Farmers Exchange introduced them in 1947.
Carrots: Rainbow Blend (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
Only a few left!
Festive Color and Flavor Mix of Purple, Yellow, Red and White Carrots is sure to delight—each with their own unique qualities. Purple has smooth skin, coreless orange flesh and is sweet and tasty. Solar Yellow holds its sunny hue inside and out, is crunchy, sweet and juicy. Lunar White is mild and delicious, and Atomic Red has high lycopene levels as well as a crispy texture that is great cooked.
Carrots: Scarlet Nantes (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The origin of carrots is somewhat obscure, but early records from many civilizations refer to this colorful root. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. The 19th century seed specialist Louis de Vilmorin introduced the French varieties of carrot such as Nantes and Chantenay, which both derive their names from their places of origin. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California.
Carrots: Tendersweet (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The origin of carrots is somewhat obscure, but early records from many civilizations refer to this colorful root. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. The Dutch were the among the first to cultivate the orange carrot; legend has it that their intent was to honor William of Orange. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California.
Cauliflower: Snowball Y Improved (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. botrytis)
$1.00 - $5.60
In spite of Mark Twain's opinion that cauliflower is nothing but cabbage with a college education, this vegetable enjoyed extreme popularity in the palaces of French royalty such as Louis XIV. Its origin is thought to be Cyprus, though records also show its presence in Arab, Mediterranean, and African countries and the Roman Empire. By the 17th century, cauliflower had reached England; Italian immigrants were the first to appreciate its culinary qualities and bring it to America, where it soon grew in nearly every family and commercial garden.
Celery: Tendercrisp (Heirloom) (Apium graveolens var. dulce)
$1.00 - $5.60
No one really knows where celery originated, though claims come from such diverse locations as Sweden, New Zealand, and Algeria. Experts believe it probably was first cultivated in the Mediterranean basin. In ancient times, celery was valued primarily for its medicinal benefits; French and Italian cooks first started making use of it for an herb or flavoring in the seventeenth century. A Scotsman named George Taylor is credited with bringing celery to United States, when he grew it in his garden and offered it to the guests at a local ball.
Celery: Utah Tall 52/70 (Heirloom) (Apium graveolens var. dulce)
$1.00 - $5.60
No one really knows where celery originated, though claims come from such diverse locations as Sweden, New Zealand, and Algeria. Experts believe it probably was first cultivated in the Mediterranean basin. In ancient times, celery was valued primarily for its medicinal benefits; French and Italian cooks first started making use of it for an herb or flavoring in the seventeenth century. A Scotsman named George Taylor is credited with bringing celery to United States, when he grew it in his garden and offered it to the guests at a local ball.
Clover: Crimson (Trifolium incarnatum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Most commonly known as crimson clover, this wildflower is also called Italian or French clover in reference to it's nativity to Europe. This annual species blooms in a strawberry red, and it's delightful fragrance attracts bees by the score! A non-invasive, annual species of clover, it is often used as a cover-crop. In southern climates, plant it during your off-season, and watch the amazing results of this rich, nitrogen producing plant! The earthworms love it! Also a protein-rich forage crop for cattle and livestock, this gem of a wildflower is indispensable!
Clover: Purple Prairie (Dalea purpurea)
$1.00 - $5.60
Meriwether Lewis described this prairie plant in his diary entry of September 2nd 1804, saying that “the Indians use it as an application to fresh wounds.” He went on to collect several more specimens and described them fully in his notes, since he had no previous knowledge of the plant. Purple Prairie Clover produces protein-rich seed that is a source of food for many birds as well as deer, antelope, livestock, and small animals of all kinds. Native Americans also valued this versatile plant, often brewing the leaves for tea or eating the roots as a delicacy. The Pawnees dried the stems and tied them together for brooms, leading to the nickname “broom weed.” The genus name Dalea honors Samuel Dale (1659-1739), an English botanist, physician, and historian.
Clover: Strawberry Palestine (Trifolium fragiferum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Strawberry Palestine Clover is an introduced species that is native to the Mediterranean, as well as parts of central Europe and Asia. Growing to 9-12”, this hardy groundcover tolerates flooding and is great for grazing! It’s botanical name “fragiferum” translates to “strawberry bearing” since both the mature flower look and spread very much like strawberries!
Corn: Country Gentleman-Open Pollinated (Heirloom) (Zea mays)
$1.00 - $5.60
Country Gentleman corn, a heirloom variety, is the most well known variety of shoepeg corn. Named for the similarity of its kernels to wooden pegs used in shoe making, shoepeg corn is characterized by small, irregular white kernels of unsurpassed tenderness and sweetness. The American South has made this type of corn its own, and it is virtually unrecognized in other areas of the United States. Country Gentleman was first offered for sale in 1890 by S. D. Woodruff & Sons.
Corn: Golden Bantam-Open Pollinated (Heirloom) (Zea mays)
$1.00 - $5.60
A Greenfield, Massachusetts native named J. G. Pickett is credited with developing this marvelous variety of corn. Later, seed expert E. L. Coy sent it to Burpee with the note, "you now own the very richest and sweetest corn ever known."
Corn, Popcorn: Shaman's Blue (Hybrid) Open Pollinated (Zea mays)
$1.00 - $5.60
Blue corn originated in the Andes Mountains of Peru, where the native peoples usually ground it into flour for cooking. Indians of Mexico and the southwestern United States also widely used this corn, since its dryness made it an excellent flour corn and gave it good resistance to disease. This exciting blue popcorn receives high marks for both visual and taste appeal. The unique blue/purple kernel pops into mounds of snow white popcorn that will satisfy any popcorn lover with its slightly sweet flavor.
Corn, Popcorn: South American Yellow (Zea mays)
$1.00 - $5.60
According to evidence found by archaeologists on the northern coast of Peru, popcorn was a staple in the ancient civilizations of South America. Popcorn also grew above the border, and it once occupied a space in nearly every American garden. At the beginning of the twentieth century, 52 varieties of popcorn were offered by the seed catalogs of the time. A wise choice for popcorn lovers! This prolific variety bears 2-3, 6-9 inch ears per plant. When popped, the large yellow kernels produce a buttery tasting popcorn.
Corn, Popcorn: Strawberry Red (Zea Mays)
$1.00 - $5.60
Although it's exact origin is unknown, it is believed that Strawberry Red Popcorn was domesticated by the Olmec and the Mayans. Not only is this amazing variety edible, but it is just as decorative. Each plant grows to 5-6' and bares two or so 2-3" strawberry shaped ears that are covered with brilliant burgundy kernels! Your mind will be blown as you watch the red kernels pop into white popcorn with in the blink of eye!
Cucumber: Lemon (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Historians generally agree that the first cucumbers grew in India's Himalayan Mountains over 3,000 years ago. From this region they expanded into Greece and Rome; the Romans most likely spread this vegetable to the rest of Europe. The cucumber was widely grown by native Americans through the influence of the Spanish and other explorers. Cucumbers continue to be a vital part of traditional cuisine in Russia and many parts of Asia; the greatest variety of colors and shapes of this vegetable can still be found in its Asian birthplace. Lemon cucumbers in particular can be traced back to the gardens of the 1890s.
Cucumber: Marketmore 76' (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Historians generally agree that the first cucumbers grew in India's Himalayan Mountains over 3,000 years ago. From this region they expanded into Greece and Rome; the Romans most likely spread this vegetable to the rest of Europe. The cucumber was widely grown by native Americans through the influence of the Spanish and other explorers. Cucumbers continue to be a vital part of traditional cuisine in Russia and many parts of Asia; the greatest variety of colors and shapes of this vegetable can still be found in its Asian birthplace. Marketmore cucumbers in particular were developed at Cornell University of New York, but Dr. Henry Munger.
Cucumber: Mexican Sour Gherkin (Heirloom) (Melothria scabra)
$1.00 - $5.60
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Melothria scabra is a vine grown for its edible fruit. Fruit are about the size of grapes and taste like cucumbers with a tinge of sourness. Vernacular names include mouse melon, Mexican sour gherkin, cucamelon, Mexican miniature watermelon, Mexican sour cucumber and pepquinos. This plant is native to Mexico and Central America, where it is called sandiita (little watermelon). It is believed to have been a domesticated crop before western contact began.
Cucumber: National Pickling (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
National Pickling cucumbers in particular come from the research of George Starr of Michigan State University, who was commissioned by the National Pickle Packers Association to produce a pickle that would perform equally well for small and large pickles. The resulting cucumber excelled all expectations when it was offered to the public in 1924.
Cucumber: Straight Eight (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Historians generally agree that the first cucumbers grew in India's Himalyan Mountains over 3,000 years ago. From this region they expanded into Greece and Rome; the Romans most likely spread this vegetable to the rest of Europe. The cucumber was widely grown by native Americans through the influence of the Spanish and other explorers. Cucumbers continue to be a vital part of traditional cuisine in Russia and many parts of Asia; the greatest variety of colors and shapes of this vegetable can still be found in its Asian birthplace. Straight Eight cucumbers in particular were developed because of the demand for straight cucumbers; they exceeded all expectations, and won the AAS Gold Medal Award in 1935.
Cucumber: Sumter (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Perfect for pickling, this disease resistant cucumber variety produces blocky, slightly tapered, medium green fruit with white spines. Widely adapted for growing in all regions, for home or market. Tender annual 4' vines, 5" fruit. Disease Resistant to Powdery Mildew, Downy Mildew, Alternaria Leaf Spot and tolerant to Cucumber Mosaic Virus.
Cucumber: White Wonder (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
This high yielding ivory white cucumber variety was introduced into the U.S. and first offered by Burpee Seed Company in 1893. White Wonder Cucumbers are delicious raw, in salads, or pickled.
Cucumber: Wisconsin SMR 58 (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Historians generally agree that the first cucumbers grew in India's Himalayan Mountains over 3,000 years ago. From this region they expanded into Greece and Rome; the Romans most likely spread this vegetable to the rest of Europe. The cucumber was widely grown by native Americans through the influence of the Spanish and other explorers. Cucumbers continue to be a vital part of traditional cuisine in Russia and many parts of Asia; the greatest variety of colors and shapes of this vegetable can still be found in its Asian birthplace. As the name suggests, the Wisconsin SMR 58 cucumber comes from the University of Wisconsin; it soon achieved the title of the best non-hybrid pickling cucumber.
Eggplant: Black Beauty (Heirloom) (Solanum melongena var. esculentum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Eggplants date back to medieval times where they were called mad apples. A staple of regions of Asia, known as the "king of vegetables". Eggplant comes in all shapes colors and sizes. Black Beauty is one of the earliest and dates back to the early 1900's.
Eggplant: Golden Egg (Solanum Melongena)
$1.00 - $5.60
Ornamental Eggplant is a very unique tropical annual that produce purple flowers and egg-shaped, edible fruit that begin white and turn golden upon maturity. Excellent choices for pots and containers, ornamental hedge, or house plant.
Eggplant: Long Purple (Heirloom) (Solanum melongena)
$1.00 - $5.60
This Italian heirloom eggplant, Long Purple, produces dark purple cucumber-shaped fruit with firm, mild flesh. Good yields, especially in northern climates! Plants will typically produce 4 or more 8-10" fruits with harvest beginning in 70 to 80 days. Average water needs. Some parts of plant are poisonous if ingested.
Lettuce: Bibb (Heirloom)
$1.00 - $5.60
This unusual lettuce with a resemblance to both leaf lettuce and iceberg lettuce was first grown by Lt. Jack B. Bibb of Frankfurt, Kentucky in 1935. Lt. Bibb experimented with horticulture in his greenhouse and ended up with this famous variety, which provides the traditional salad lettuce of the Kentucky Derby. Bibb lettuce also has been called "limestone lettuce" because of the high lime content in the Kentucky soil.
Lettuce: Freckles Romaine (Heirloom)
$1.00 - $5.60
Freckles heirloom lettuce, originally known by the German name of "Forellenschluss," which means "speckled like a trout's back," comes from Austria and Southern Germany in the late 18th century. Wild lettuce, however, from which modern lettuce is derived, originated in Asia Minor. The ancient historian Herodotus records its presence on the tables of 6th century Persian kings, and throughout the following centuries it became a popular crop all over Europe. Columbus brought it with him to the New World, starting its spread over the North American continent. Without a doubt, lettuce now holds a place in nearly every garden on the globe.
Lettuce: Oakleaf (Heirloom)
$1.00 - $5.60
Oakleaf lettuce dates back to 1771, when it was introduced by the French seed company Vilmorin. Wild lettuce, however, from which modern lettuce is derived, originated in Asia Minor. The ancient historian Herodotus records its presence on the tables of 6th century Persian kings, and throughout the following centuries it became a popular crop all over Europe. Columbus brought it with him to the New World, starting its spread over the North American continent. Without a doubt, lettuce now holds a place in nearly every garden on the globe.
Lettuce: Red Romaine (Heirloom)
$1.00 - $5.60
Romaine lettuce, though named for its presence in the papal gardens, dates back to the third millennium BC, where ancient Egyptians depicted this type of lettuce in their bas-reliefs. Another name for Romaine, "Cos," shows another part of its history on the Greek island of Kos. Later, Syrian gardeners began selectively breeding this type of lettuce to have a thick rib and spoon-like shape, since they used lettuce as a spoon for their traditional cuisine.
Lupine: Arroyo (Lupinus succulentus)
$1.00 - $5.60
This wildflower can be found growing throughout the American southwest; it is especially widespread in California, its native state. The name Lupine comes from the Latin “lupus,” meaning wolf. This refers to the folk belief that this plant took nutrients from the soil. Ironically, this plant actually improves the soil because of its nitrogen fixing abilities.
Lupine: Russell (Lupinus polyphyllus)
$1.00 - $5.60
George Russell, a self-taught horticulturalist from Great Britain, produced this lovely hybrid in the early 1920’s after nearly two decades of cross-breeding and experimentation. On being honored by the Royal Horticultural Society for his achievement, Mr. Russell stated that all the really crucial work had been done by the humble little bees in his garden. The name Lupine comes from the Latin “lupus,” meaning wolf. This refers to the folk belief that this plant took nutrients from the soil. Ironically, this plant actually improves the soil because of its nitrogen fixing abilities.
Lupine: Sky (Lupinus nanus)
$1.00 - $5.60
This wildflower was first found near the Columbia River and described in 1828 by Scotsman David Douglas, the first botanist to methodically find and classify over 250 plants in the northwestern region of the United States.The name Lupine comes from the Latin “lupus,” meaning wolf. This refers to the folk belief that this plant took nutrients from the soil. Ironically, this plant actually improves the soil because of its nitrogen fixing abilities.
Radish: Early Scarlet Globe (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Early Scarlet Globe is an early variety of radish and an favorite of many home gardeners because it matures in just 23 days! Though their exact origin is unknown, certainly have been growing in America since the late 19th century. After reviewing an assortment of the early radishes then available, the June 1913 issue of "Garden Magazine" said of Scarlet Globe, "it remains in good table condition longer than any of the early sorts mentioned above."
Radish: French Breakfast (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Though the exact origin of French Breakfast radishes is unknown, renowned seed expert James J. H. Gregory of Marblehead, Massachusetts first offered them for sale in his seed catalog in 1875.
Radish: German Giant (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Radishes, in their early forms, come from the ancient civilizations of China, Greece, and Egypt; soon, surrounding nations also cultivated this vegetable. While the Oriental nations cultivated the large, elongated radishes, most of the round varieties such as German Giant were developed by the Dutch and the French. German Giant, as the name suggests, is an Amish heirloom that originated in Germany.
Radish: Watermelon (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
The Watermelon radish is a type of Japanese winter radish also known as a "daikon," which simply means "large root" in Japanese. Daikon radishes account for the largest percentage of any cultivated vegetable in Japan, and can be found in some form in nearly every meal of that country. Watermelon radishes, which orginated in north China near Beijing, are often served sweetened there as a dessert or fruit.
Radish: White Spear Sprouting (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
White Spear is a type of Japanese winter radish also known as a "daikon," which simply means "large root" in Japanese. Daikon radishes account for the largest percentage of any cultivated vegetable in Japan, and can be found in some form in nearly every meal of that country.
Spinach: Bloomsdale Longstanding (Heirloom) (Spinacia oleracea)
$1.00 - $5.60
In 1784, Englishman David Landreth moved to downtown Philadelphia to open the first commercial seed business in the United States. He and his brother Cuthbert developed this variety of spinach, which they named Bloomsdale Longstanding and introduced to their customers in 1826. Bloomsdale became known for withstanding temperature changes without bolting, and continues to be well loved by gardeners.
Spinach: Purple Passion (Heirloom) (Atriplex hortensis)
$1.00 - $5.60
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Purple Passion Spinach also known as Purple Mountain Spinach has 3 times more Vitamin A than normal spinach. It is also very tasty and easy to grow. Purple Passion Spinach can grow to six feet tall, with beautiful purplish-red leaves, and can be used in place of traditional spinach or chard. Also superb in salads or cooked as a green.
Tomato: Amana Orange (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
The Amana Orange tomato is an Iowa heirloom obtained from Gary Staley of Brandon, Florida, who named it for the Amana Colonies of Amana, Iowa. The Amana Colonies, a National Historic Landmark since 1965, were completely self sufficient German Pietist communities. The Colonies imported with them their traditions and handcrafts from Germany, including heirloom vegetables such as Amana Orange.
Tomato: Arkansas Traveler (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
The Arkansas Traveler is an open-pollinated heirloom variety of tomato that was bred by the University of Arkansas in 1968. The plant is indeterminate with round red fruits weighing approximately 6 ounces
Tomato: Beefsteak (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Seed expert Peter Henderson introduced this tomato in 1894, naming it "Henderson's Crimson Cushion." Later renamed Beefsteak, it became a favorite of gardeners in the Northeast. It was developed for resistance to fusarium wilt and nematodes, as well as meaty flesh for eating fresh or cooking.
Tomato: Black Krim (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Black tomatoes originated in Russia, and first reached the United States with solders returning home from the Crimean War. Black Krim, considered one of the best of the black tomatoes, comes from the Crimean peninsula in the Black Sea. Lars Olov Rosenstrom of Sweden found this excellent variety in Krim, Russia in 1990.
Tomato: Green Zebra (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Seed expert Tom Wagner of Everett, Washington bred Green Zebra from several green tomato varieties, including Evergreen. Since he was young, Tom had been fascinated with green tomatoes, but was disappointed with their tendency to crack. He set out to create a new green tomato, and Green Zebra was the result; he first offered it for sale in his seed catalog in 1983.
Tomato: Hillbilly (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
This multicolored heirloom tomato originates in the mountains of West Virginia. Ohio gardener Jerry Lee Bosner introduced this seed to Seed Savers Exchange for commercial use in 1994.
Tomato: Indigo Apple (Hybrid) (Solanum lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Apple Indigo tomato was bred by Brad Gates in Copemish, MI. who naturally crossed indigo rose with red cherry tomatoes. It is an early maturing, indeterminate, open pollinated, hybrid tomato variety that matures in 70 days. It produces clusters of 2-4 oz., shiny black to reddish purple, apple shaped tomatoes. This variety also has nice size foliage that prevents tomatoes from getting sun scald. It is definitely a great choice for home gardens and hydroponic gardening.
Tomato: Italian Roma (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Tomatoes first arrived in Italy with the return of European explorers from South America, bringing with them the unknown "tomatl," a member of the nightshade family that was considered poisonous for centuries and only used for decoration. Though Italians didn't discover the merits of tomatoes as a vegetable until the 18th century, they quickly became a staple ingredient in Italian sauces and pasta. The Roma tomato, also called an Italian plum tomato, performs excellently for sauces because of its low water content.
Tomato: Purple Cherokee (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Craig LeHoullier, a Seed Savers Exchange member, PhD chemist, and gardening enthusiast, received the seeds of Cherokee Purple in the mail from J. D. Green of Tennessee. Mr. Green stated that his neighbor had obtained the seed from Cherokee Indians in the area, who had developed this variety and grown it for generations. LeHoullier, being greatly impressed with the purple tomatoes, sent them to Southern Exposure Seed Exchange and Johnny's Seeds, who both began to produce them commercially in 1991. Cherokee Purple, in addition to the famous Brandywine tomatoes, caused the popularity of old fashioned heirloom varieties of tomato.
Tomato: Sweetie Cherry (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
The Heirloom Sweetie Cherry Tomato has a firm texture and was produced for commercial sale in 1980. These succulent fruits can grow up to 1" in diameter, and even though they aren't very big, they still have incredibly high sugar content.
Tomato: Yellow Pear (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
History well documents the Yellow Pear tomato, indicating the presence of this variety in Europe as early as the 17th century. The earliest known reference to this heirloom in North America comes from the sale records of the Hudson Bay Company in Vancouver, Canada. Numerous heirloom seed companies in the United States still offer Yellow Pear as an unusual, delicious little tomato.