Swiss Chard: Ruby Red (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris var. cicla)
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Ruby Red Swiss chard was introduced to the United States in 1857. In spite of the name, Swiss chard originates in the Mediterranean region, where professional and home chefs alike use it for salad greens or as a flavoring in soup or rice. The first written mention of this vegetable in the United States is in The American Farmer magazine, where Baltimore farmer Gideon Smith reported his experimental planting. It remained a curiosity until after the Civil War, when gradually it gained in popularity.
Scientific Name: Beta vulgaris var. cicla.
Ease of Growing: Easy
Grown as: Biennial
Days to Maturity: 55 days
Hardiness: Hardy. One of the most popular varieties of Chard because it is so hardy. Will continue to grow through the winter in mild climates, and is tolerant to a light frost.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Spring, Fall Transplant, Fall
Growing Season: Short, Long
Growing Conditions: Cold, Cool. Chard is one of the most shade tolerant of common crops, so can be grown underneath taller crops (in hot climates it may even benefit from this). In cool climates it should have full sun for maximum production of foliage.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 40°F - 75°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 50°F. Chard will germinate at 40 degrees but it will take 6 weeks. A more practical temperature for planting outdoors is 50 degrees.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Cold, Cool). In cool climates it needs full sun for maximum production of foliage. In warm climates it will need summer shade.
Water: Moderate. Chard is relatively drought tolerant as a plant, though for highest quality and yields it should be well supplied with water.
Feeder: Light. Chard is a fairly hungry plant and will be most productive in a fertile soil.
Suitability: Tolerates light frost, Needs summer shade
Small Gardens?: Yes
Containers?: Yes. Chard does quite well in containers. Choose a pot with a depth of 8 to 12" and fill with a mixture of potting soil and compost. Make sure your pot has adequate drainage by choosing one with drainage holes. Water thoroughly and place in full sun. Make sure to keep the soil moist.
Attracts beneficial insects?: No
Forage: Rabbits.
Maintenance: Low
Plant Height: 15-20"
Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 1.0".
Spacing: 6-12"
Produces: chard with bright red stalks and crumpled dark green leaves.
Hardiness Zone: 2-10
Ease of Growing: Easy
Grown as: Biennial
Days to Maturity: 55 days
Hardiness: Hardy. One of the most popular varieties of Chard because it is so hardy. Will continue to grow through the winter in mild climates, and is tolerant to a light frost.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Spring, Fall Transplant, Fall
Growing Season: Short, Long
Growing Conditions: Cold, Cool. Chard is one of the most shade tolerant of common crops, so can be grown underneath taller crops (in hot climates it may even benefit from this). In cool climates it should have full sun for maximum production of foliage.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 40°F - 75°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 50°F. Chard will germinate at 40 degrees but it will take 6 weeks. A more practical temperature for planting outdoors is 50 degrees.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Cold, Cool). In cool climates it needs full sun for maximum production of foliage. In warm climates it will need summer shade.
Water: Moderate. Chard is relatively drought tolerant as a plant, though for highest quality and yields it should be well supplied with water.
Feeder: Light. Chard is a fairly hungry plant and will be most productive in a fertile soil.
Suitability: Tolerates light frost, Needs summer shade
Small Gardens?: Yes
Containers?: Yes. Chard does quite well in containers. Choose a pot with a depth of 8 to 12" and fill with a mixture of potting soil and compost. Make sure your pot has adequate drainage by choosing one with drainage holes. Water thoroughly and place in full sun. Make sure to keep the soil moist.
Attracts beneficial insects?: No
Forage: Rabbits.
Maintenance: Low
Plant Height: 15-20"
Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 1.0".
Spacing: 6-12"
Produces: chard with bright red stalks and crumpled dark green leaves.
Hardiness Zone: 2-10
Soil Preparation
Soil Preference:
Soil pH: 6.0-7.0, Ideal 6.2-6.8. Chard has a deep, strong root system and is able to seek out the nutrients it needs, consequently it can grow well in fairly poor soil. However for highest yield it does best in a fertile garden soil, rich in humus, well drained and not too acidic.
Soil Preparation:
Standard Mix, 5 pounds per 100 sq. ft., in top 6" of soil, 1 time: A standard mix is incorporated into the soil along with the compost. It will supply any additional nutrients the plants may need. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Compost (Nitrogen), 2", in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Incorporate 2˝ of compost or aged manure into the top 6˝ of soil.
Soil pH: 6.0-7.0, Ideal 6.2-6.8. Chard has a deep, strong root system and is able to seek out the nutrients it needs, consequently it can grow well in fairly poor soil. However for highest yield it does best in a fertile garden soil, rich in humus, well drained and not too acidic.
Soil Preparation:
Standard Mix, 5 pounds per 100 sq. ft., in top 6" of soil, 1 time: A standard mix is incorporated into the soil along with the compost. It will supply any additional nutrients the plants may need. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
- 4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
- 2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
- 2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
- 1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
- 1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Compost (Nitrogen), 2", in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Incorporate 2˝ of compost or aged manure into the top 6˝ of soil.
Start Indoors
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 1.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep.
Soil temp for germination: 40°F to 95°F, optimal 50°F to 85°F, optimal 70°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 4 to 8 (Spring/Summer), 7 to 8 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
10-14 weeks before first frost date: Chard can be started indoors but doesn’t really like root disturbance (though it will tolerate it when very young). For this reason it is usually grown in cell packs, plug trays or soil blocks. Germination is quite uneven, so seeds may continue to emerge for a week or more. Each “seed” is actually a cluster of flowers fused together, each containing a single seed. This is why you end up with several plants when you plant one seed. You can gently break up these clusters and get individual seeds to plant. The seed clusters contain a water soluble germination inhibitor, which can be leached out by soaking the seed overnight prior to planting. Don’t simply soak them in a glass of water overnight however, as they may absorb so much water so quickly, they can be damaged. Instead they should be put on a damp paper towel so they can absorb moisture slowly. You could take this one step further and actually pre-sprout the seeds before planting. Don’t let them get too large inside, otherwise exposure to temperatures below 50˚ F (for two weeks) could vernalize them. They will then bolt as soon as it gets warmer. Be sure to keep soil moist (but not too moist) until planted outside in the garden.
2-4 weeks before last frost date: Chard can be started indoors but doesn’t really like root disturbance (though it will tolerate it when very young). For this reason it is usually grown in cell packs, plug trays or soil blocks. Germination is quite uneven, so seeds may continue to emerge for a week or more. Each “seed” is actually a cluster of flowers fused together, each containing a single seed. This is why you end up with several plants when you plant one seed. You can gently break up these clusters and get individual seeds to plant. The seed clusters contain a water soluble germination inhibitor, which can be leached out by soaking the seed overnight prior to planting. Don’t simply soak them in a glass of water overnight however, as they may absorb so much water so quickly, they can be damaged. Instead they should be put on a damp paper towel so they can absorb moisture slowly. You could take this one step further and actually pre-sprout the seeds before planting. Don’t let them get too large inside, otherwise exposure to temperatures below 50˚ F (for two weeks) could vernalize them. They will then bolt as soon as it gets warmer. Be sure to keep soil moist (but not too moist) until planted outside in the garden.
Harden Off: 1 weeks before last frost date. Get starts acclimated to their new outdoor temperatures. Place plants outside to harden off before Spring planting.
Soil temp for germination: 40°F to 95°F, optimal 50°F to 85°F, optimal 70°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 4 to 8 (Spring/Summer), 7 to 8 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
10-14 weeks before first frost date: Chard can be started indoors but doesn’t really like root disturbance (though it will tolerate it when very young). For this reason it is usually grown in cell packs, plug trays or soil blocks. Germination is quite uneven, so seeds may continue to emerge for a week or more. Each “seed” is actually a cluster of flowers fused together, each containing a single seed. This is why you end up with several plants when you plant one seed. You can gently break up these clusters and get individual seeds to plant. The seed clusters contain a water soluble germination inhibitor, which can be leached out by soaking the seed overnight prior to planting. Don’t simply soak them in a glass of water overnight however, as they may absorb so much water so quickly, they can be damaged. Instead they should be put on a damp paper towel so they can absorb moisture slowly. You could take this one step further and actually pre-sprout the seeds before planting. Don’t let them get too large inside, otherwise exposure to temperatures below 50˚ F (for two weeks) could vernalize them. They will then bolt as soon as it gets warmer. Be sure to keep soil moist (but not too moist) until planted outside in the garden.
2-4 weeks before last frost date: Chard can be started indoors but doesn’t really like root disturbance (though it will tolerate it when very young). For this reason it is usually grown in cell packs, plug trays or soil blocks. Germination is quite uneven, so seeds may continue to emerge for a week or more. Each “seed” is actually a cluster of flowers fused together, each containing a single seed. This is why you end up with several plants when you plant one seed. You can gently break up these clusters and get individual seeds to plant. The seed clusters contain a water soluble germination inhibitor, which can be leached out by soaking the seed overnight prior to planting. Don’t simply soak them in a glass of water overnight however, as they may absorb so much water so quickly, they can be damaged. Instead they should be put on a damp paper towel so they can absorb moisture slowly. You could take this one step further and actually pre-sprout the seeds before planting. Don’t let them get too large inside, otherwise exposure to temperatures below 50˚ F (for two weeks) could vernalize them. They will then bolt as soon as it gets warmer. Be sure to keep soil moist (but not too moist) until planted outside in the garden.
Harden Off: 1 weeks before last frost date. Get starts acclimated to their new outdoor temperatures. Place plants outside to harden off before Spring planting.
Transplant Outdoors
When Cold, Cool: Chard is one of the most shade tolerant of common crops, so can be grown underneath taller crops (in hot climates it may even benefit from this). In cool climates it should have full sun for maximum production of foliage.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Chard will germinate at 40 degrees but it will take 6 weeks. A more practical temperature for planting outdoors is 50 degrees.
Seed Depth: 0.5"-1.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep.
Spacing: 6-12", 4 plants per sq ft. Chard grows fast and gets quite large. Space the plants 6" to 12" apart, depending upon the fertility of the soil and the growing method. If the plants are too crowded they will sometimes bolt prematurely.
Spring Crop:
0-2 weeks after last frost date: This is pretty straightforward and is the preferred method of growing Chard.
Rows:
1. Make the furrows ½˝ deep
2. Plant the seeds 1½˝ apart and re-fill with topsoil. If the soil isn’t very good, you could cover with a mix of half soil and half compost.
Broadcasting:
1. Scatter the seeds so they are spaced about 2-3˝ apart
2. Cover with a ½˝ layer of cover soil mix.
Fall Crop:
10-12 weeks before first frost date: The seeds will germinate and grow quickly in the warm soil of late summer
Rows:
1. Make the furrows ½˝ deep
2. Plant the seeds 1½˝ apart and re-fill with topsoil. If the soil isn’t very good, you could cover with a mix of half soil and half compost.
Broadcasting:
1. Scatter the seeds so they are spaced about 2-3˝ apart
2. Cover with a ½˝ of cover soil mix.
Support: No
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Chard will germinate at 40 degrees but it will take 6 weeks. A more practical temperature for planting outdoors is 50 degrees.
Seed Depth: 0.5"-1.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep.
Spacing: 6-12", 4 plants per sq ft. Chard grows fast and gets quite large. Space the plants 6" to 12" apart, depending upon the fertility of the soil and the growing method. If the plants are too crowded they will sometimes bolt prematurely.
Spring Crop:
0-2 weeks after last frost date: This is pretty straightforward and is the preferred method of growing Chard.
Rows:
1. Make the furrows ½˝ deep
2. Plant the seeds 1½˝ apart and re-fill with topsoil. If the soil isn’t very good, you could cover with a mix of half soil and half compost.
Broadcasting:
1. Scatter the seeds so they are spaced about 2-3˝ apart
2. Cover with a ½˝ layer of cover soil mix.
Fall Crop:
10-12 weeks before first frost date: The seeds will germinate and grow quickly in the warm soil of late summer
Rows:
1. Make the furrows ½˝ deep
2. Plant the seeds 1½˝ apart and re-fill with topsoil. If the soil isn’t very good, you could cover with a mix of half soil and half compost.
Broadcasting:
1. Scatter the seeds so they are spaced about 2-3˝ apart
2. Cover with a ½˝ of cover soil mix.
Support: No
Start Indoors
When Cold, Cool: Chard is one of the most shade tolerant of common crops, so can be grown underneath taller crops (in hot climates it may even benefit from this). In cool climates it should have full sun for maximum production of foliage.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Chard will germinate at 40 degrees but it will take 6 weeks. A more practical temperature for planting outdoors is 50 degrees.
Seed Depth: 0.5"-1.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep.
Spacing: 6-12", 4 plants per sq ft. Chard grows fast and gets quite large. Space the plants 6" to 12" apart, depending upon the fertility of the soil and the growing method. If the plants are too crowded they will sometimes bolt prematurely.
Spring Crop:
0-2 weeks after last frost date: This is pretty straightforward and is the preferred method of growing Chard.
Rows:
1. Make the furrows ½˝ deep
2. Plant the seeds 1½˝ apart and re-fill with topsoil. If the soil isn’t very good, you could cover with a mix of half soil and half compost.
Broadcasting:
1. Scatter the seeds so they are spaced about 2˝ to 3˝ apart
2. Cover with a ½˝ layer of cover soil mix.
Fall Crop:
10-12 weeks before first frost date: The seeds will germinate and grow quickly in the warm soil of late summer
Rows:
1. Make the furrows ½˝ deep
2. Plant the seeds 1½˝ apart and re-fill with topsoil. If the soil isn’t very good, you could cover with a mix of half soil and half compost.
Broadcasting:
1. Scatter the seeds so they are spaced about 2˝ to 3˝ apart
2. Cover with a ½˝ of cover soil mix.
Support: No
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Chard will germinate at 40 degrees but it will take 6 weeks. A more practical temperature for planting outdoors is 50 degrees.
Seed Depth: 0.5"-1.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep.
Spacing: 6-12", 4 plants per sq ft. Chard grows fast and gets quite large. Space the plants 6" to 12" apart, depending upon the fertility of the soil and the growing method. If the plants are too crowded they will sometimes bolt prematurely.
Spring Crop:
0-2 weeks after last frost date: This is pretty straightforward and is the preferred method of growing Chard.
Rows:
1. Make the furrows ½˝ deep
2. Plant the seeds 1½˝ apart and re-fill with topsoil. If the soil isn’t very good, you could cover with a mix of half soil and half compost.
Broadcasting:
1. Scatter the seeds so they are spaced about 2˝ to 3˝ apart
2. Cover with a ½˝ layer of cover soil mix.
Fall Crop:
10-12 weeks before first frost date: The seeds will germinate and grow quickly in the warm soil of late summer
Rows:
1. Make the furrows ½˝ deep
2. Plant the seeds 1½˝ apart and re-fill with topsoil. If the soil isn’t very good, you could cover with a mix of half soil and half compost.
Broadcasting:
1. Scatter the seeds so they are spaced about 2˝ to 3˝ apart
2. Cover with a ½˝ of cover soil mix.
Support: No
Chard is a robust and undemanding plant. Keep it well fed and watered and it should produce abundantly. Be mindful of pests (birds/slugs/snails) that will eat your seedlings during the beginning of growth. Use some type of cover over them to prevent pests. In summer, the chance of Leaf Miner damage is high. You can grow Chard in warm temperatures, but since the Leaf Miner damage is so bad, it's better to wait until cooler temperatures come.
Water Needs: Moderate. Watering, regularly. Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week. Chard is relatively drought tolerant, though for highest quality and yields it should be well supplied with water. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Chard is a fairly hungry plant and will be most productive in a fertile soil.
Side Dressing, regularly: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., regularly, every 3 weeks
If you are going to be harvesting intensively, you should feed the plants regularly with diluted compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed). It's best to wait a week after fertilization until you begin to harvest again.
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Mulch, 2", after transplanting, 1 time. Mulch helps to keep down weeds while the plants are young (older plants can take care of themselves). It also helps to keep the soil cool and conserves moisture.
Thinning, after sowing: 3" apart, after sowing, 1 time. When all of the seeds germinate, you can start thinning. Don’t start too early though, as some may be damaged by cutworms, slugs, or other pests.
Thinning, when 3" tall: 6" apart, when 3" tall, 1 time. Thinning is best done in several stages as the plants get larger. You can use the thinnings for food, or as transplants (they transplant fairly well if less than 3˝ tall). The clusters don’t need much thinning as the strongest plant tends to take over.
Thinning, when 6" tall: 12" apart, when 6" tall, 1 time. If you want large plants you might even thin to the final spacing of 12" apart when the plants are 6" tall. You can use these thinnings for food.
Support: No
Water Needs: Moderate. Watering, regularly. Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week. Chard is relatively drought tolerant, though for highest quality and yields it should be well supplied with water. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Chard is a fairly hungry plant and will be most productive in a fertile soil.
Side Dressing, regularly: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., regularly, every 3 weeks
If you are going to be harvesting intensively, you should feed the plants regularly with diluted compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed). It's best to wait a week after fertilization until you begin to harvest again.
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Mulch, 2", after transplanting, 1 time. Mulch helps to keep down weeds while the plants are young (older plants can take care of themselves). It also helps to keep the soil cool and conserves moisture.
Thinning, after sowing: 3" apart, after sowing, 1 time. When all of the seeds germinate, you can start thinning. Don’t start too early though, as some may be damaged by cutworms, slugs, or other pests.
Thinning, when 3" tall: 6" apart, when 3" tall, 1 time. Thinning is best done in several stages as the plants get larger. You can use the thinnings for food, or as transplants (they transplant fairly well if less than 3˝ tall). The clusters don’t need much thinning as the strongest plant tends to take over.
Thinning, when 6" tall: 12" apart, when 6" tall, 1 time. If you want large plants you might even thin to the final spacing of 12" apart when the plants are 6" tall. You can use these thinnings for food.
Support: No
Harvesting
Ripening: You can begin harvesting outer leaves when plants are well established and have 6 to 8 stalks. Break or cut stalks off at the base of the plant, always leaving at least 3 to 4 stalks to allow the plant to continue growing. It's best to take stalks from the outside, working your way in each day you harvest.
Storage
For longer term storage Chard can be frozen like Spinach. This is useful for those times when the plants are producing far more than you can use immediately.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: days
Use the leaves immediately after harvest, as they are thin and don’t keep for very long (only a few days in the fridge in a plastic bag).
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-5 days
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: days
Use the leaves immediately after harvest, as they are thin and don’t keep for very long (only a few days in the fridge in a plastic bag).
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-5 days
Chard is cross pollinated by the wind, so must be isolated from other varieties (and from Beets). This means having only one variety flowering at one time (ideally within a distance of two miles, though this is not always practical unless you have a very big garden).
Chard is a biennial, which means the root has to survive the winter before it can produce seed. In mild climates, you can simply leave them in the ground (cover with mulch if necessary). In colder climates you may have to lift the roots and store them in a root cellar, as described above. Replant the best roots in spring and the seed will ripen by midsummer. A flowering chard plant may get to be 8 feet tall and can be quite top heavy, so is often staked to prevent it from falling over.
You will get a lot of seed from one plant, let alone 5 plants, which is the minimum number required to maintain some genetic variability.
Seed Viability in Years: 3 - 5 years
Germination Percentage: 60%
Chard is a biennial, which means the root has to survive the winter before it can produce seed. In mild climates, you can simply leave them in the ground (cover with mulch if necessary). In colder climates you may have to lift the roots and store them in a root cellar, as described above. Replant the best roots in spring and the seed will ripen by midsummer. A flowering chard plant may get to be 8 feet tall and can be quite top heavy, so is often staked to prevent it from falling over.
You will get a lot of seed from one plant, let alone 5 plants, which is the minimum number required to maintain some genetic variability.
Seed Viability in Years: 3 - 5 years
Germination Percentage: 60%
Culinary
Taste:
Sweet and tender.
Culinary Uses:
Swiss Chard has many delicious uses in the kitchen. The leaves and the stems are often separated before cooking. The leaves can be steamed, sauteed, added to soups, or stuffed, and is often used similarly to spinach. The stems can be steamed, sauteed, or roasted with a little garlic and Parmesan cheese for a nice gratin dish. Young chard is sweet and tender, and can be added to a salad of fresh greens.
Leaves and leaf stems: raw or cooked like spinach. A very good spinach substitute, the leaves are large and easily harvested, yields are high. Some people dislike the raw leaves since they can leave an unpleasant taste in the mouth.
Flowering stem: cooked. A broccoli substitute.
Sweet and tender.
Culinary Uses:
Swiss Chard has many delicious uses in the kitchen. The leaves and the stems are often separated before cooking. The leaves can be steamed, sauteed, added to soups, or stuffed, and is often used similarly to spinach. The stems can be steamed, sauteed, or roasted with a little garlic and Parmesan cheese for a nice gratin dish. Young chard is sweet and tender, and can be added to a salad of fresh greens.
Leaves and leaf stems: raw or cooked like spinach. A very good spinach substitute, the leaves are large and easily harvested, yields are high. Some people dislike the raw leaves since they can leave an unpleasant taste in the mouth.
Flowering stem: cooked. A broccoli substitute.
Medicinal
Although little used in modern herbalism, beet has a long history of folk use, especially in the treatment of tumors. A decoction prepared from the seed has been used as a remedy for tumors of the intestines. The seed, boiled in water, is said to cure genital tumors. The juice or other parts of the plant is said to help in the treatment of tumors, leukemia and other forms of cancer such as cancer of the breast, oesophagus, glands, head, intestines, leg, lip, lung, prostate, rectum, spleen, stomach, and uterus. Some figure that betacyanin and anthocyanin are important in the exchange of substances of cancer cells, others note two main components of the amines, choline and its oxidation product betaine, whose absence produces tumors in mice. The juice has been applied to ulcers. A decoction is used as a purgative by those who suffer from hemorrhoids in South Africa. Leaves and roots used as an emmenagogue. Plant effective in the treatment of feline ascariasis. In the old days, beet juice was recommended as a remedy for anemia and yellow jaundice, and, put into the nostrils to purge the head, clear ringing ears, and alleviate toothache. Beet juice in vinegar was said to rid the scalp of dandruff as scurf, and was recommended to prevent falling hair. Juice of the white beet was said to clear obstructions of the liver and spleen. Culpepper (1653) recommended it for treating headache and vertigo as well as all affections of the brain.
Project Purity Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting
Companions: Bean, cabbage family, tomato, onion and roses. Don't overlook chard's value as an ornamental plant in flower beds or wherever you have room for it.
Enemies: Don't grow chard near cucurbits, melons, corn or herbs.
Enemies: Don't grow chard near cucurbits, melons, corn or herbs.
Problems
No serious insect or disease problems. Swiss Chard may suffer from seedling blight, fungal leaf spots, downy mildew, powdery mildew and root rots. Watch for leaf miners, flea beetles, aphids and caterpillars.
Leaf Miner's
Beneficial insects such as Leaf miner parasitic wasps prey on Leaf miners.
Leaf miner parasitic wasps: (Diglyphus isaea) are the main natural enemy of these ubiquitous garden pests. These tiny wasps prey on leaf miners by laying eggs in their larvae. When the eggs hatch, the wasp larvae feed on the leaf miner larvae. You can purchase Leaf miner parasite wasps as adults from online organic garden suppliers.
Flea Beetles
Beneficial insects such as Braconid wasps, Tachinid flies, Lacewings larvae, Damsel bugs, and Big Eyed Bug all prey on Flea Beetles.
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
Damsel Bugs: Preys on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Flea beetles, Potato beetles, and Cabbage worms.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Preys on Aphids, small Caterpillars and Caterpillar eggs, Flea beetles, Fleahoppers, Lygus bugs, Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies.
To attract Big-Eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
Damsel Bugs: Preys on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Flea beetles, Potato beetles, and Cabbage worms.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Preys on Aphids, small Caterpillars and Caterpillar eggs, Flea beetles, Fleahoppers, Lygus bugs, Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies.
To attract Big-Eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Aphids
Beneficial insects such as Ladybugs, Collops Beetle, Soldier Beetles, Long-legged Flies, Hover Flies, Predaceous Midges, Damsel Bugs, Big-eyed Bugs, Minute Pirate Bugs, Lacewings, Parasitic Wasps,
Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.
Ladybeetles, Ladybugs, or Ladybird Beetles: Ladybeetles are probably the most well-known of beetles that eat aphids. There are many species, and both the adults and larvae eat aphids. Convergent lady beetles and the seven-spotted ladybeetles are abundant species in the environment. Eggs are found in clutches, yellow and football shaped. Larvae have an alligator-like appearance, and are black with orange markings. Pupae are sedentary. Ladybeetles are commercially available but purchasing is not generally recommended since the adult stage tends to fly away once released. Introductions may be more effective in greenhouses and high tunnels. Diverse plantings can help recruit resident ladybeetles to an area.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus),
Masterwort (Astrantia major), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata),
Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white
sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata),
Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white
sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum – white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal
(Mentha pulegium), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil
(Potentilla villosa), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Marigold – lemon gem (Tagetes tenuifolia), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), and Zinnia – ‘liliput’ (Zinnia elegans).
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus),
Masterwort (Astrantia major), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata),
Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white
sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata),
Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white
sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum – white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal
(Mentha pulegium), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil
(Potentilla villosa), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Marigold – lemon gem (Tagetes tenuifolia), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), and Zinnia – ‘liliput’ (Zinnia elegans).
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
Caterpillar
Beneficial insects such as Assassin Bugs, Big Eyed Bugs, Braconid Wasps, Damsel Bugs, Ground Beetles, Hoverflies, Lacewings, Minute Pirate Bugs, and Preying Mantis all prey on Caterpillars.
Assassin Bugs: Preys on Aphids, leafhoppers, asparagus beetle eggs and larvae, small flying insects, and up to medium-sized caterpillars.
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Braconid Wasps: prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Hoverflies: Prey on aphids, scale insects, caterpillars, and Thrips.
To attract Hoverflies to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white
sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Praying Mantis: Preys on a wide range including caterpillars, moths, beetles, and crickets.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: tall grasses and shrubs, cosmos, marigolds, and dills.
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Braconid Wasps: prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Hoverflies: Prey on aphids, scale insects, caterpillars, and Thrips.
To attract Hoverflies to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white
sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Praying Mantis: Preys on a wide range including caterpillars, moths, beetles, and crickets.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: tall grasses and shrubs, cosmos, marigolds, and dills.
Nutrition
The leaves contain large amounts of vitamins A and C, as well as calcium, phosphorus, potassium and iron. They also contain oxalic acid, which can inhibit the absorption of calcium to some degree (see Spinach for more on this).
The Health Benefits of Swiss Chard
Manage Diabetes: Perhaps one of the most important benefits of Swiss chard is its ability to regulate the blood sugar levels in our body. Syringic acid is one of the unique flavonoids found in Swiss chard, and it has a very unusual ability. It inhibits the activity of a specific enzyme named alpha-glucosidase. This means that less cards are broken down to simple sugars, which allows the blood sugar levels in the body to remain stable, and prevent the plunges and peaks that are so dangerous for diabetic patients, or for those people who are at a high risk of developing diabetes.
Bone Health: Swiss chard has a significant amount of calcium in those leaves, which means that Swiss chard is a major boost for bone health. Calcium, as well as the other minerals found in this vegetable help to stimulate bone growth and development, including magnesium and vitamin K.
Brain Booster: Swiss chard is a valuable source of both potassium and vitamin K, both of which are found in significant amounts in the brain, and are integral parts of boosting cognitive development and abilities. Add some Swiss chard to your diet and expand your mind!
Blood Circulation: Iron and copper are both essential elements of red blood cells, and without those two minerals, people can develop anemia, which shows itself as weakness, fatigue, stomach disorders, and lack of concentration. By ensuring a proper amount of red blood cells by eating food like Swiss chard, you can increase circulation of the blood and oxygenation of essential organs within the body.
Blood Pressure and Heart Health: The anti-inflammatory and phytonutrient antioxidants found in Swiss chard, along with potassium, all contribute to reducing blood pressure and stress on the cardiovascular system. Some hypertension is due to pro-inflammatory enzymes within the body, which the organic compounds in Swiss chard are able to neutralize. Therefore, Swiss chard protects those who eat it from a variety of conditions like atherosclerosis, heart attacks and strokes.
Eye Health: Swiss chard has a huge amount of beta-carotene, which has been linked in many ways to optimal eye health and a reduction in macular degeneration, glaucoma, night blindness, and other vision-related conditions.
Hair Health: Biotin is an organic compound that has been directly linked to healthy hair, the stimulation of follicles, and as a way to increase luster and texture. Swiss chard also has significant amounts of biotin, among its many other beneficial compounds.
Cancer Prevention: Like many leafy, green vegetables, Swiss chard has anti-cancer properties due to the huge amounts of antioxidants found in it. Antioxidants neutralize free radicals, which are the dangerous byproducts of cellular metabolism that can cause healthy cells to become cancerous. Swiss chard contains significant amounts of vitamin E, C, zinc, lutein, zeaxanthin, kaempferol, beta-carotene, and quercetin. Many of these have been connected to preventing a wide variety of cancers, specifically colon cancer.
Bone Health: Swiss chard has a significant amount of calcium in those leaves, which means that Swiss chard is a major boost for bone health. Calcium, as well as the other minerals found in this vegetable help to stimulate bone growth and development, including magnesium and vitamin K.
Brain Booster: Swiss chard is a valuable source of both potassium and vitamin K, both of which are found in significant amounts in the brain, and are integral parts of boosting cognitive development and abilities. Add some Swiss chard to your diet and expand your mind!
Blood Circulation: Iron and copper are both essential elements of red blood cells, and without those two minerals, people can develop anemia, which shows itself as weakness, fatigue, stomach disorders, and lack of concentration. By ensuring a proper amount of red blood cells by eating food like Swiss chard, you can increase circulation of the blood and oxygenation of essential organs within the body.
Blood Pressure and Heart Health: The anti-inflammatory and phytonutrient antioxidants found in Swiss chard, along with potassium, all contribute to reducing blood pressure and stress on the cardiovascular system. Some hypertension is due to pro-inflammatory enzymes within the body, which the organic compounds in Swiss chard are able to neutralize. Therefore, Swiss chard protects those who eat it from a variety of conditions like atherosclerosis, heart attacks and strokes.
Eye Health: Swiss chard has a huge amount of beta-carotene, which has been linked in many ways to optimal eye health and a reduction in macular degeneration, glaucoma, night blindness, and other vision-related conditions.
Hair Health: Biotin is an organic compound that has been directly linked to healthy hair, the stimulation of follicles, and as a way to increase luster and texture. Swiss chard also has significant amounts of biotin, among its many other beneficial compounds.
Cancer Prevention: Like many leafy, green vegetables, Swiss chard has anti-cancer properties due to the huge amounts of antioxidants found in it. Antioxidants neutralize free radicals, which are the dangerous byproducts of cellular metabolism that can cause healthy cells to become cancerous. Swiss chard contains significant amounts of vitamin E, C, zinc, lutein, zeaxanthin, kaempferol, beta-carotene, and quercetin. Many of these have been connected to preventing a wide variety of cancers, specifically colon cancer.
Suggested Varieties
Amaranth: Love Lies Bleeding (Heirloom) (Amaranthus caudatus)
$1.00 - $5.60
As a decorative flower, Love-Lies-Bleeding grew in many Victorian English gardens; in the language of flowers, it represents hopeless love. In addition to producing lovely flowers, Love-Lies-Bleeding is a form of the grain-producing plant known as amaranth. A staple grain for the Aztecs and Incas, amaranth was referred to as the "golden grain of the gods" and used in religious rituals. The plant nearly died out when the Spanish Conquistadors declared their religious practices barbaric, and made growing amaranth a capital offense. Today, both the leaves and the seeds of amaranth are an important food source in many parts of the world. This unique grain provides an impressive amount of vitamins and minerals, as well as being very rich in protein.
Amaranth: Perfecta (Heirloom) (Amaranthus Tricolor 'Perfecta')
$1.00 - $5.60
This fast-growing, heat-loving plant originated in tropical Asia, where it is widely cultivated as a leaf vegetable. It bears large, elliptic or oval leaves on erect stems. The brightly hued new leaves fade gradually to medium green with deep maroon markings. This cultivar is spectacular from summer to frost. Insignificant clusters of green or reddish flowers appear at the stem tips and in the leaf axils in summer. Small capsules containing a single brown or black seed follow the flowers.
Amaranth: Red Garnet (Heirloom) (Amaranthus tricolor)
$1.00 - $5.60
Amaranth had a sacred status in the ancient civilizations of the Aztecs and Incas, since the grain was used in various religious rituals. It remains a staple food in modern Mexico and some parts of Asia, being prepared in numerous dishes from sweet to savory. One traditional Mexican treat known as "alegria" is made with amaranth grain and honey or molasses. A super grain, amaranth can be used for gluten free flour; it also makes a complete protein when mixed with another grain. In addition, amaranth greens have a higher iron content than any other green vegetable except parsley, as well as containing many valuable vitamins and minerals.
Angelica (Angelica atropurpurea)
$1.00 - $5.60
Angelica is perennial native that stands 3-8' tall and is commonly found in woodlands and swampy areas near streams and rivers. It produces large, pale to dark purple hollow stems, with ¾-4½" long, medium to dark green sub leaflets. Being both edible and medicinal, this plant surely has a lot of offer any garden.
Balm: Lemon (Melissa officinalis)
$1.00 - $5.60
Lemon balm was most likely introduced to Spain by the Moors in the 7th century; by the Middle Ages, it was common throughout Europe. Its Latin name, Melissa, means “bee” in Greek and refers to the plant's tendency to attract bees; first century Roman naturalist Pliny the Elder recommended that lemon balm be cultivated near bee hives to prevent the bees from straying. A member of the mint family, lemon balm dates back over 2,000 years for use as a medicinal herb primarily to treat stress and anxiety, insomnia, and indigestion. Eleventh century Persian physician and philosopher Avicenna wrote of the benefits of lemon balm in treating low spirits or melancholy. According to an old Arabian proverb, “Balm makes the heart merry and joyful.” According to historical record, both King Charles V of France and Emperor Charles V drank lemon balm beverages to improve their health; lemon balm was also one of the plants grown in Thomas Jefferson’s famous experimental garden. Today, herbal treatments containing lemon balm often include other calming herbs such as valerian, chamomile, and hops to encourage relaxation.
Beans: Black Turtle (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
In colonial America, black beans were not appreciated because of their unappealing color. As a result, the Black Turtle bean was advertised as an affordable substitute for turtle in the making of turtle soup, a delicacy during that time in history. Black beans originate in South America; some historians fix the date as far back as 8,000 BC to the Pre-Incan civilization in Peru. People from this time valued dry beans because of their long lasting freshness in storage. Black beans are a favorite in Latin American cooking for use in soups, sauces, and main dishes.
Beans: Blue Lake Bush #274 (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
Named for the Blue Lake District near Ukiah, CA, where they first developed in 1961, these world famous beans set the standard for bush beans. The canning industry first widely used Blue Lake beans because of their excellence when canned, but they soon became known and loved all over the United States. Blue Lake beans stand on the top of the list of gourmet cooks and gardeners alike because of their unsurpassed flavor and high yield.
Beans: Contender Bush (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
First offered to gardeners in 1949, Contender comes from a high yielding, disease resistant strain. Originally, the common bean comes from South America; some historians fix the date as far back as 8,000 BC to the Pre-Incan civilization in Peru. When Columbus arrived in the New World, he found green beans growing with the maize of the Indians. Columbus and other European explorers introduced this new vegetable to their countries, where it eventually spread to the rest of Europe and all over the world.
Beans: Gold Rush Yellow Wax (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
The vegetable we now recognize as the common bean has its roots in South America; some historians fix the date as far back as 8,000 BC to the Pre-Incan civilization in Peru. When Columbus arrived in the New World, he found green beans growing with the maize of the Indians. Columbus and other European explorers introduced this new vegetable to their countries, where it eventually spread to the rest of Europe and all over the world.
Beans: Kentucky Wonder Pole (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
Sold out
First appearing in the late 1800's, Kentucky Wonder Pole beans are descended from an old variety of pole bean called Texas Pole. When first introduced, Kentucky Wonder had the name of Old Homestead. In 1877, James J. H. Gregory & Sons made it available in their catalog. It immediately became widely popular for its flat, stringless pods that could be eaten fresh or dried for soup beans.
Beans: Lazy Housewife Pole (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
2015 Bean of the Year. Brought to America by German immigrants and first listed in W. Atlee Burpee’s 1888 catalog. These beans were so-named because they were the first beans to not require destringing! Originally cultivated in Central America, from Mexico to Peru, Bolivia and Argentina. The smaller beans are thought to have been cultivated in Mexico as long as 7,000 years ago, while the larger beans were cultivated in Peru starting 8,000 years ago. High in protein, easy to grow, dry and cook, they have sustained mankind for millennia.
Beans: Pinto (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
The pinto bean has its roots in South America; some historians fix the date as far back as 8,000 BC to the Pre-Incan civilization in Peru. People from this time valued dry beans because of their long lasting freshness in storage. Pinto beans contain the highest amount of fiber of any bean, and are the top choice for Mexican dishes such as refried beans and chile con carne.
Beans: Red Yard Long (Heirloom ) (Vigna unguiculata sesquipedalis)
$1.00 - $5.60
The yard long bean, often known as the Chinese long bean, originates in southern Asia; Carl Linnaeus first noted its presence in the New World in 1763. Actually a member of the cowpea family, they closely resemble green beans with a slightly more intense flavor and denser texture. Yard long beans have been a popular ingredient in Asian stir fries and other vegetable dishes for centuries. These beans also have a loyal following in the Mediterranean region, being known in Napes as "faiolo e maccarone," or "beans and macaroni," because of their noodle-like appearance.
Bean: Royalty Purple Pod Green (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
Royalty Purple Pod Green bean will add beautiful color to your garden with it's purple foliage and purple flowers. The bright purple pods are 5" long, stringless and turn green when cooked. This beautiful bush bean was introduced by Billy Hepler Seed Company in 1957.
Bergamot: Wild (Monarda fistulosa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Butterfly attracting premier! Bursting with lavender heads of flowers, this popular perennial wildflower puts on a beautiful show! Medium to tall in height, this plant looks great planted en masse, or with other meadow dwellers. Its sweetly aromatic foliage makes it even more desirable. A classic!
Cabbage: Early Jersey Wakefield (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
$1.00 - $5.60
The first Early Jersey Wakefield cabbages were raised in 1840 by a man named Francis Brill of Jersey City, New Jersey. Thirty years later, seed companies all over the region offered this seed for sale; growers appreciated its early harvest and small, tender heads.
Cabbage: Late Flat Dutch (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
$1.00 - $5.60
Late Flat Dutch cabbage can be traced back to 1840, when the earliest mention of this variety is found in the seed records of the Netherlands. German immigrants carried the seed with them to America, where it spread; by 1924, it could be found in local seed catalogs such as D. M. Ferry & Company.
Cabbage: Red Acre (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
$1.00 - $5.60
Cabbage is considered one of the oldest cultivated vegetables, since historians trace it back to 4,000 BC in China. The Romans also cultivated it and praised it for its healing qualities; philosophers Pythagoras and Cato both made the lowly cabbage the subject of a book. Jacques Cartier brought the first cabbage to America in 1536. Cabbages were quite popular in colonial America, being pickled and preserved in every possible way to provide food for the winter.
Cabbage, Chinese: Pak Choi (Heirloom) (Brassica rapa var. chinensis)
$1.00 - $5.60
Chinese cabbage dates back to the 15th century in China, when a pharmacologist of the Ming Dynasty considered it nutritionally beneficial. Later it became the main ingredient in kim chi, the national dish of Korea; Japanese soldiers also discovered Chinese cabbage and took it home with them after the war. Americans became familiar with this vegetable in the late 19th century.
Caraway (Carum carvi)
$1.00 - $5.60
Possibly one of the oldest herbs, evidence of caraway has been found in the Neolithic ruins of Europe as well as in ancient Egypt. Medieval medicine recommended the use of caraway for the improvement of digestion as well as for infant colic; William Shakespeare himself made reference to the culinary use of this herb in his play Henry IV, when Falstaff is invited to "take a pippin and a dish of caraways." The flavor of caraway became extremely popular in Tudor England, especially cooked with fruit or for cakes and bread. Caraway has a well known role in the cuisine of Germany, Scandanavia, northern Africa, and various eastern European countries.
Carrots: Chantenay Red Cored (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
Introduced from France in the late 1800s. Blocky, broad-shouldered variety with blunt tip, about 5-1/2" long and 2-1/2" at the shoulder. Deep orange interior. Adaptable to clay and a wide range of soils. A versatile, good winter keeper that is quite tasty, raw or cooked. Stores well in the ground. Becomes sweeter in storage.
Carrots: Cosmic Purple (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The first mention of red, white, and purple carrots can be found in the records of both Afghanistan and Egypt. Yellow carrots, on the other hand, date back to Turkish records from the 900's. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California.
Carrots: Danvers (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The origin of carrots is somewhat obscure, but early records from many civilizations refer to this colorful root. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California. Danvers carrots in particular come from Danvers, Massachusetts, where the Eastern States Farmers Exchange introduced them in 1947.
Carrots: Rainbow Blend (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
Only a few left!
Festive Color and Flavor Mix of Purple, Yellow, Red and White Carrots is sure to delight—each with their own unique qualities. Purple has smooth skin, coreless orange flesh and is sweet and tasty. Solar Yellow holds its sunny hue inside and out, is crunchy, sweet and juicy. Lunar White is mild and delicious, and Atomic Red has high lycopene levels as well as a crispy texture that is great cooked.
Carrots: Scarlet Nantes (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The origin of carrots is somewhat obscure, but early records from many civilizations refer to this colorful root. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. The 19th century seed specialist Louis de Vilmorin introduced the French varieties of carrot such as Nantes and Chantenay, which both derive their names from their places of origin. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California.
Carrots: Tendersweet (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The origin of carrots is somewhat obscure, but early records from many civilizations refer to this colorful root. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. The Dutch were the among the first to cultivate the orange carrot; legend has it that their intent was to honor William of Orange. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California.
Chives: Garlic (Allium tuberosum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Originating in western China, garlic chives have been used in Asian cuisine for thousands of years. Unlike the traditional tubular leaves of regular chives, garlic chives have flat, narrow blades; some gardeners blanch their garlic chives, causing them to develop a pale yellow color. Traditional pad Thai, Chinese jiaozi, and various Korean dishes such as buchukimchi often contain garlic chives; they also make a popular addition to stir fries, soups, and dishes with eggs or fish. These delicately garlic scented leaves are often used more as a vegetable than an herb, and may also substitute for standard chives. Garlic chives provide abundant vitamins and minerals, including vitamin C, calcium, and iron.
Chives: Onion (Allium schoenoprasum var. album)
$1.00 - $5.60
Chives, the oldest species of edible onion known, has been used in China since about 3000 B.C. The botanical name actually comes from the Greek meaning, "reed-like leek". Chives are now grown all over the world; historical legend states that Marco Polo discovered this herb in China and brought it back to his native land. Medieval gardeners often planted chives around the borders for both decoration and to ward off harmful insects. Traditional medicinal uses, though not as common, included treatment for high cholesterol and poor digestion. Along with parsley, tarragon, and chervil, chives is included in the famous blend of herbs known as "Fines herbes." The onion-like flavor of chives makes them a traditional addition to dishes with cheese, eggs, fish, or potatoes; the flowers make a delicate herbal vinegar, in addition to being a colorful addition to salads.
Clover: Crimson (Trifolium incarnatum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Most commonly known as crimson clover, this wildflower is also called Italian or French clover in reference to it's nativity to Europe. This annual species blooms in a strawberry red, and it's delightful fragrance attracts bees by the score! A non-invasive, annual species of clover, it is often used as a cover-crop. In southern climates, plant it during your off-season, and watch the amazing results of this rich, nitrogen producing plant! The earthworms love it! Also a protein-rich forage crop for cattle and livestock, this gem of a wildflower is indispensable!
Clover: Purple Prairie (Dalea purpurea)
$1.00 - $5.60
Meriwether Lewis described this prairie plant in his diary entry of September 2nd 1804, saying that “the Indians use it as an application to fresh wounds.” He went on to collect several more specimens and described them fully in his notes, since he had no previous knowledge of the plant. Purple Prairie Clover produces protein-rich seed that is a source of food for many birds as well as deer, antelope, livestock, and small animals of all kinds. Native Americans also valued this versatile plant, often brewing the leaves for tea or eating the roots as a delicacy. The Pawnees dried the stems and tied them together for brooms, leading to the nickname “broom weed.” The genus name Dalea honors Samuel Dale (1659-1739), an English botanist, physician, and historian.
Clover: Strawberry Palestine (Trifolium fragiferum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Strawberry Palestine Clover is an introduced species that is native to the Mediterranean, as well as parts of central Europe and Asia. Growing to 9-12”, this hardy groundcover tolerates flooding and is great for grazing! It’s botanical name “fragiferum” translates to “strawberry bearing” since both the mature flower look and spread very much like strawberries!
Coriander: Leisure (Coriandrum sativum)
$1.00 - $5.60
The coriander plant, whose leaves are known as cilantro, is native to the Mediterranean and Middle Easter countries; it is believed to be one of the earliest spices used by man. Early physicians such as Hippocrates used coriander primarily as an aromatic stimulant or to disguise the taste of unsavory medicines. Nearly every part of this herb has a culinary use; in Thai cuisine, the roots flavor spicy sauces, while the cilantro leaves season and garnish Chinese, Vietnamese, and Mexican dishes. The coriander seed is used in candy, specialty breads, sauces, desserts, and even perfumes. In Tudor England, coriander seeds coated with sugar were known as "comfits" and became a popular treat.
Cosmos: Bright Lights (Cosmos sulphureus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Because of their Mexican heritage, these bright annuals meet high heat and drought conditions with native beauty and vigor. Spanish conquistadors searching for gold discovered these flowers on their journeys through Mexico. Mission gardens often included these flowers, which priests gave the name “cosmos,” the Greek word for a harmonious whole, because of their neatly spaced petals. Cosmos flowers made their way to England with Spanish ambassadors in the late 18th century, and to the United States in the following century.
Cosmos: Candy Stripe (Cosmos bipinnatus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Because of their Mexican heritage, these bright annuals meet high heat and drought conditions with native beauty and vigor. Spanish conquistadors searching for gold discovered these flowers on their journeys through Mexico. Mission gardens often included these flowers, which priests gave the name “cosmos,” the Greek word for a harmonious whole, because of their neatly spaced petals. Cosmos flowers made their way to England with Spanish ambassadors in the late 18th century, and to the United States in the following century.
Cosmos: Radiance (Cosmos bipinnatus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Because of their Mexican heritage, these bright annuals meet high heat and drought conditions with native beauty and vigor. Spanish conquistadors searching for gold discovered these flowers on their journeys through Mexico. Mission gardens often included these flowers, which priests gave the name “cosmos,” the Greek word for a harmonious whole, because of their neatly spaced petals. Cosmos flowers made their way to England with Spanish ambassadors in the late 18th century, and to the United States in the following century.
Dill: Dukat (Anethum graveolens)
$1.00 - $5.60
Historical records suggest that dill has been used for medicinal purposes for over 5,000 years; its primary use was to calm the digestion and treat stomach ailments, hence its name from an old Saxon word meaning "to lull." Ancient Greek tradition suggested covering the head with dill leaves to induce sleep, while many herbal remedies from ages past recommend dill to soothe colicky babies. Traditionally, dill was thought to bring good fortune, protection, and wealth. Though the origin of dill's famous association with the pickle is not known, an 1640 recipe from the cook of England's King Charles I requires dill in its pickled cucumbers. Today, German, Greek, and Scandinavian cuisine most often include dill.
English Marigold (Calendula officinalis)
$1.00 - $5.60
This old-fashioned flower has a long history as both an ornamental garden plant and as an herb. When dried, the petals of Calendula flowers provide a culinary substitute for saffron; in times past, they were used to give a rich color to cheese or butter. Medicinal uses included treatments for measles and smallpox, as well as for dressing wounds on the battlefield. As well as being the traditional flower for October birthdays, calendula symbolizes sorrow and sympathy.
Fennel: Florence (Foeniculum vulgare var. azoricum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Fennel has a rich history in ancient Greece, where it was called "marathon." The Battle of Marathon in 490 BC and the Italian town of the same name both received their names from this plant, which the Grecians regarded as a symbol of victory. Its medicinal properties, which are many, include an ability to suppress the appetite. In 13th century England, people ate fennel seeds during fast days or long sermons to partially satisfy their hunger; this led to the nickname "meeting seeds." A tea made of fennel became a well known treatment for infant colic or digestive disturbances. The seed of the fennel plant is most commonly found in Middle Eastern cuisine, while the bulb-like portion of the plant is popular in Italian and German cuisine. While culinary use is perfectly safe, large doses of fennel should be avoided by expectant mothers.
Marigolds: Naughty Marietta (Tagetes patula)
$1.00 - $5.60
For non-stop bloom until frost, there's nothing better than French marigolds. The single flowers are golden yellow with mahogany streaks, and are very attractive to bees and butterflies. Ideal for planting along borders, or among vegetables to deter pests. Also makes a perfect container plant for pots or window boxes. The deeply divided foliage forms a bushy mound up to 12 inches high.
Marigolds: Sparky Mix French (Tagetes patula)
$1.00 - $5.60
This easy-to-grow French marigold will bloom all season long. Compact mounds up to 12 inches tall will produce vivid bi-color orange and yellow flowers with an unusual form. This unique flower has wider, wavy petals that make these blossoms spectacular when planted en masse. A beautiful choice for containers as well as gardens.
Marigold: White (Tagetes Erecta 'Kilimanjaro')
$1.00 - $5.60
Commonly called African marigold, Aztec marigold, American marigold or big marigold, is native to Mexico and Central America. Big marigold may be the best descriptive name because plants are noted for their large flowerheads. They typically grow from 1-4’ tall and feature huge, mostly double-globular flowers (2-4” diameter) in various shades of yellow, orange, and whitish. This variety is unaffected by high summer heat and generally blooms throughout the summer.
Milkweed: Blood Flower (Asclepias curassavica)
$1.00 - $5.60
In 1753, eminent botanist Carl Linnaeus gave Blood Flower its Latin genus name, Asclepias. Asclepias, the name of the legendary Greek representation of medicine and healing, is especially appropriate since this plant formerly had numerous medicinal uses. At one time, the silk from the seed pods was spun for fabric or used for stuffing pillows; in World War II, school children gathered the silk to provide a cheap filling for soldiers’ life jackets. Commercial attempts to make use of this abundant plant included the manufacture of paper, fabric, lubricant, fuel, and rubber; eventually these became impractical and were abandoned. In the wild, Blood Flower attracts flocks of butterflies and their larvae; butterflies are immune to the plant’s poison, and actually become rather poisonous themselves as protection from predators.
Milkweed: Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Butterfly Weed, one of the most striking of native plants, lights up the prairies with its blazing orange flowers. It thrives in rocky or sandy soil, typically in open fields or along roadsides. One of its common names, pleurisy root, refers to an old remedy for lung ailments that contained this plant. At one time, the silk from this plant’s seed pods was spun for fabric or used for stuffing pillows; in World War II, school children gathered the silk to provide a cheap filling for soldiers’ life jackets. Commercial attempts to make use of this abundant plant included the manufacture of paper, fabric, lubricant, fuel, and rubber; eventually these became impractical and were abandoned. Though this plant is toxic to most animals, butterflies are immune to the plant’s poison and actually become rather poisonous themselves as protection from predators.
Milkweed: Common (Asclepias syriaca)
$1.00 - $5.60
Common milkweed is Nature's mega food market for insects. Over 450 insects are known to feed on some portion of the plant. Numerous insects are attracted to the nectar-laden flowers and it is not at all uncommon to see flies, beetles, ants, bees, wasps, and butterflies on the flowers at the same time. Occasionally hummingbirds will try, unsuccessfully, to extract nectar. Its sap, leaves and flowers also provide food.
Milkweed: Showy (Asclepias speciosa)
$1.00 - $5.60
A popular native wildflower in western North America, Showy Milkweed commonly occurs on rocky slopes, woodland areas, or along roads or streams. John Torrey, a Columbia University botanist, recorded this species for science in 1820 from a specimen found near the Canadian River. At one time, the silk from this plant’s seed pods was spun for fabric or used for stuffing pillows; in World War II, school children gathered the silk to provide a cheap filling for soldiers’ life jackets. Commercial attempts to make use of this abundant plant included the manufacture of paper, fabric, lubricant, fuel, and rubber; eventually these became impractical and were abandoned. Though this plant is toxic to most animals, butterflies are immune to the plant’s poison and actually become rather poisonous themselves as protection from predators.
Milkweed: Swamp (Asclepias incarnata)
$1.00 - $5.60
As the name indicates, these swamp milkweed seeds for sale thrive in swamps and low meadows or along streams. The bright pink flowers attract swarms of bees and butterflies, and have a sweet scent described as similar to vanilla or cinnamon. At one time, the silk from swamp milkweed seed pods was spun for fabric or used for stuffing pillows; in World War II, school children gathered the silk to provide a cheap filling for soldiers' life jackets. Commercial attempts to make use of this abundant plant included the manufacture of paper, fabric, lubricant, fuel, and rubber; eventually these became impractical and were abandoned. Though this plant is toxic to most animals, butterflies are immune to the plant's poison and actually become rather poisonous themselves as protection from predators.
Mint: Pennyroyal (Mentha Pulegium)
$1.00 - $5.60
Pennyroyal, a member of the mint family, is a perennial herb that was once widely used but is not as common today. It has applications as an herbal remedy, culinary uses and as a decorative touch. Growing pennyroyal in the herb or perennial garden will add color with its lavender blooms.
Nasturtiums: Empress of India (Tropaeolum minus)
$1.00 - $5.60
These brilliant crimson flowers are set off by the deep blue-green leaves. This heirloom variety has a dwarf, bushy habit, and will self-sow. Edible blooms and leaves make a lovely garnish and bright addition to salads.
Nasturtiums: Jewel Mix (Tropaeolum minus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Cheery three-inch blooms in a lovely mix of peach, pink, yellow, orange and red bloom all summer on this dwarf nasturtium. Compact growth and bright blooms make this an ideal choice for garden beds or containers. Thrives in poor soil, and does well in cool weather. The flowers and leaves are edible, and will attract hummingbirds and butterflies as well as beneficial insects.
Onions: Cipollini, Red (Heirloom) (Allium cepa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Red Cipollini, also known as Borettana, are heirloom Italian onions that were first cultivated in the 1400's in the town of Boretto, Italy. They have been known as “poor man’s onion” and “little onion” as well. Even though these sweet flat onions are tiny, they are a specialty produce that packs a strong flavor raw and get sweeter when cooked. These onions are perfect for grilling, pickling, or roasting.
Onions: Cipollini, Yellow (Organic) (Allium cepa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Yellow Cipollini, also known as Borettana, are heirloom Italian onions that were first cultivated in the 1400's in the town of Boretto, Italy. They have been known as “poor man’s onion” and “little onion” as well. Even though these sweet flat onions are tiny, they are a specialty produce that packs a strong flavor raw and get sweeter when cooked. These onions are perfect for grilling, pickling, or roasting.
Onions: Evergreen White Bunching (Heirlooms) (Allium fistulosum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Most likely coming from Asia, this unusual onion has a different name in nearly every country that cultivates it; spring onions, Japanese onions, Welsh onions, scallions, green onions to name only a few. The countries of eastern Asia remain on the top of the list for bunching onion production.
Onions: Ruby Red (Heirloom) (Allium cepa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Red onions originated in central Asia, and are still a favorite choice for the cuisine of east India in particular because of their bright color and pungency. Those who love red onions know that three cities on particular are known for producing them: Tropea, Italy; Wethersfield, Connecticut; and Turda, Romania.
Onions: Sweet Spanish White (Heirloom) (Allium cepa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Spain, the leading onion producer of western Europe, consumes more onions than any other European country; their cuisine cannot be Spanish without onions. The most well known sweet onions of America such as the Vidalia and Grano types have their roots in the sweet onions of Spain, such as this Sweet Spanish variety.
Onion: Sweet Spanish Yellow (Heirloom) (Allium cepa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Spain, the leading onion producer of western Europe, consumes more onions than any other European country; their cuisine cannot be Spanish without onions. The most well known sweet onions of America such as the Vidalia and Grano types have their roots in the sweet onions of Spain, such as this Sweet Spanish variety.
Onions: Walla Walla (Heirloom) (Allium cepa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Walla Walla onions are native to the Pacific Northwest where they were developed by Peter Pieri in the city of Walla Walla, Washington in the early 1900’s. Washington State has also made this variety their State Vegetable due to the popularity of its mild sweet flavor and crispy.
Parsley: Italian Giant (Heirloom) (Petroselinum crispum var. neapolitanum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Parsley has a long and colorful history, being well known in many cultures. Myths and legends abound concerning this herb, making it the symbol of such widely varying things as death, victory, and life. One colonial superstition connecting parsley with death held such power that many farmers refused to grow this herb at all. Curly leaved parsley is the most well known and commonly available herb; it contains vitamins A and C as well as other valuable antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals.
Penstemon: Rocky Mountain (Penstemon strictus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Hardy, drought tolerant, and stunningly beautiful, what more could you want? Rich indigo blooms tower high on this Beardtongue, and are loved by hummingbirds and bees. Rocky Mountain Penstemon is one of the easiest Beardtongues to grow, and has a long blooming period of about a month in the Spring. A real show stopper!
Radish: Early Scarlet Globe (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Early Scarlet Globe is an early variety of radish and an favorite of many home gardeners because it matures in just 23 days! Though their exact origin is unknown, certainly have been growing in America since the late 19th century. After reviewing an assortment of the early radishes then available, the June 1913 issue of "Garden Magazine" said of Scarlet Globe, "it remains in good table condition longer than any of the early sorts mentioned above."
Radish: French Breakfast (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Though the exact origin of French Breakfast radishes is unknown, renowned seed expert James J. H. Gregory of Marblehead, Massachusetts first offered them for sale in his seed catalog in 1875.
Radish: German Giant (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Radishes, in their early forms, come from the ancient civilizations of China, Greece, and Egypt; soon, surrounding nations also cultivated this vegetable. While the Oriental nations cultivated the large, elongated radishes, most of the round varieties such as German Giant were developed by the Dutch and the French. German Giant, as the name suggests, is an Amish heirloom that originated in Germany.
Radish: Watermelon (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
The Watermelon radish is a type of Japanese winter radish also known as a "daikon," which simply means "large root" in Japanese. Daikon radishes account for the largest percentage of any cultivated vegetable in Japan, and can be found in some form in nearly every meal of that country. Watermelon radishes, which orginated in north China near Beijing, are often served sweetened there as a dessert or fruit.
Radish: White Spear Sprouting (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
White Spear is a type of Japanese winter radish also known as a "daikon," which simply means "large root" in Japanese. Daikon radishes account for the largest percentage of any cultivated vegetable in Japan, and can be found in some form in nearly every meal of that country.
Tomato: Amana Orange (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
The Amana Orange tomato is an Iowa heirloom obtained from Gary Staley of Brandon, Florida, who named it for the Amana Colonies of Amana, Iowa. The Amana Colonies, a National Historic Landmark since 1965, were completely self sufficient German Pietist communities. The Colonies imported with them their traditions and handcrafts from Germany, including heirloom vegetables such as Amana Orange.
Tomato: Arkansas Traveler (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
The Arkansas Traveler is an open-pollinated heirloom variety of tomato that was bred by the University of Arkansas in 1968. The plant is indeterminate with round red fruits weighing approximately 6 ounces
Tomato: Beefsteak (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Seed expert Peter Henderson introduced this tomato in 1894, naming it "Henderson's Crimson Cushion." Later renamed Beefsteak, it became a favorite of gardeners in the Northeast. It was developed for resistance to fusarium wilt and nematodes, as well as meaty flesh for eating fresh or cooking.
Tomato: Black Krim (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Black tomatoes originated in Russia, and first reached the United States with solders returning home from the Crimean War. Black Krim, considered one of the best of the black tomatoes, comes from the Crimean peninsula in the Black Sea. Lars Olov Rosenstrom of Sweden found this excellent variety in Krim, Russia in 1990.
Tomato: Green Zebra (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Seed expert Tom Wagner of Everett, Washington bred Green Zebra from several green tomato varieties, including Evergreen. Since he was young, Tom had been fascinated with green tomatoes, but was disappointed with their tendency to crack. He set out to create a new green tomato, and Green Zebra was the result; he first offered it for sale in his seed catalog in 1983.
Tomato: Hillbilly (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
This multicolored heirloom tomato originates in the mountains of West Virginia. Ohio gardener Jerry Lee Bosner introduced this seed to Seed Savers Exchange for commercial use in 1994.
Tomato: Indigo Apple (Hybrid) (Solanum lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Apple Indigo tomato was bred by Brad Gates in Copemish, MI. who naturally crossed indigo rose with red cherry tomatoes. It is an early maturing, indeterminate, open pollinated, hybrid tomato variety that matures in 70 days. It produces clusters of 2-4 oz., shiny black to reddish purple, apple shaped tomatoes. This variety also has nice size foliage that prevents tomatoes from getting sun scald. It is definitely a great choice for home gardens and hydroponic gardening.
Tomato: Italian Roma (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Tomatoes first arrived in Italy with the return of European explorers from South America, bringing with them the unknown "tomatl," a member of the nightshade family that was considered poisonous for centuries and only used for decoration. Though Italians didn't discover the merits of tomatoes as a vegetable until the 18th century, they quickly became a staple ingredient in Italian sauces and pasta. The Roma tomato, also called an Italian plum tomato, performs excellently for sauces because of its low water content.
Tomato: Purple Cherokee (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Craig LeHoullier, a Seed Savers Exchange member, PhD chemist, and gardening enthusiast, received the seeds of Cherokee Purple in the mail from J. D. Green of Tennessee. Mr. Green stated that his neighbor had obtained the seed from Cherokee Indians in the area, who had developed this variety and grown it for generations. LeHoullier, being greatly impressed with the purple tomatoes, sent them to Southern Exposure Seed Exchange and Johnny's Seeds, who both began to produce them commercially in 1991. Cherokee Purple, in addition to the famous Brandywine tomatoes, caused the popularity of old fashioned heirloom varieties of tomato.