Swiss Chard: Ruby Red (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris var. cicla)
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General Information
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Soil Preparation & Start Indoors
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Transplant Outdoors & Start Outdoors
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Crop Care
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Harvesting & Storage
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Seed Saving
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Culinary & Medicinal
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Companion Planting
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Nutrition & Health Benefits
Ease of Growing: Easy
Grown as: Biennial
Days to Maturity: 55 days
Hardiness: Hardy. One of the most popular varieties of Chard because it is so hardy. Will continue to grow through the winter in mild climates, and is tolerant to a light frost.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Spring, Fall Transplant, Fall
Growing Season: Short, Long
Growing Conditions: Cold, Cool. Chard is one of the most shade tolerant of common crops, so can be grown underneath taller crops (in hot climates it may even benefit from this). In cool climates it should have full sun for maximum production of foliage.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 40°F - 75°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 50°F. Chard will germinate at 40 degrees but it will take 6 weeks. A more practical temperature for planting outdoors is 50 degrees.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Cold, Cool). In cool climates it needs full sun for maximum production of foliage. In warm climates it will need summer shade.
Water: Moderate. Chard is relatively drought tolerant as a plant, though for highest quality and yields it should be well supplied with water.
Feeder: Light. Chard is a fairly hungry plant and will be most productive in a fertile soil.
Suitability: Tolerates light frost, Needs summer shade
Small Gardens?: Yes
Containers?: Yes. Chard does quite well in containers. Choose a pot with a depth of 8 to 12" and fill with a mixture of potting soil and compost. Make sure your pot has adequate drainage by choosing one with drainage holes. Water thoroughly and place in full sun. Make sure to keep the soil moist.
Attracts beneficial insects?: No
Forage: Rabbits.
Maintenance: Low
Plant Height: 15-20"
Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 1.0".
Spacing: 6-12"
Produces: chard with bright red stalks and crumpled dark green leaves.
Hardiness Zone: 2-10
Soil Preparation
Soil pH: 6.0-7.0, Ideal 6.2-6.8. Chard has a deep, strong root system and is able to seek out the nutrients it needs, consequently it can grow well in fairly poor soil. However for highest yield it does best in a fertile garden soil, rich in humus, well drained and not too acidic.
Soil Preparation:
Standard Mix, 5 pounds per 100 sq. ft., in top 6" of soil, 1 time: A standard mix is incorporated into the soil along with the compost. It will supply any additional nutrients the plants may need. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
- 4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
- 2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
- 2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
- 1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
- 1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Compost (Nitrogen), 2", in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Incorporate 2˝ of compost or aged manure into the top 6˝ of soil.
Start Indoors
Soil temp for germination: 40°F to 95°F, optimal 50°F to 85°F, optimal 70°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 4 to 8 (Spring/Summer), 7 to 8 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
10-14 weeks before first frost date: Chard can be started indoors but doesn’t really like root disturbance (though it will tolerate it when very young). For this reason it is usually grown in cell packs, plug trays or soil blocks. Germination is quite uneven, so seeds may continue to emerge for a week or more. Each “seed” is actually a cluster of flowers fused together, each containing a single seed. This is why you end up with several plants when you plant one seed. You can gently break up these clusters and get individual seeds to plant. The seed clusters contain a water soluble germination inhibitor, which can be leached out by soaking the seed overnight prior to planting. Don’t simply soak them in a glass of water overnight however, as they may absorb so much water so quickly, they can be damaged. Instead they should be put on a damp paper towel so they can absorb moisture slowly. You could take this one step further and actually pre-sprout the seeds before planting. Don’t let them get too large inside, otherwise exposure to temperatures below 50˚ F (for two weeks) could vernalize them. They will then bolt as soon as it gets warmer. Be sure to keep soil moist (but not too moist) until planted outside in the garden.
2-4 weeks before last frost date: Chard can be started indoors but doesn’t really like root disturbance (though it will tolerate it when very young). For this reason it is usually grown in cell packs, plug trays or soil blocks. Germination is quite uneven, so seeds may continue to emerge for a week or more. Each “seed” is actually a cluster of flowers fused together, each containing a single seed. This is why you end up with several plants when you plant one seed. You can gently break up these clusters and get individual seeds to plant. The seed clusters contain a water soluble germination inhibitor, which can be leached out by soaking the seed overnight prior to planting. Don’t simply soak them in a glass of water overnight however, as they may absorb so much water so quickly, they can be damaged. Instead they should be put on a damp paper towel so they can absorb moisture slowly. You could take this one step further and actually pre-sprout the seeds before planting. Don’t let them get too large inside, otherwise exposure to temperatures below 50˚ F (for two weeks) could vernalize them. They will then bolt as soon as it gets warmer. Be sure to keep soil moist (but not too moist) until planted outside in the garden.
Harden Off: 1 weeks before last frost date. Get starts acclimated to their new outdoor temperatures. Place plants outside to harden off before Spring planting.
Transplant Outdoors
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Chard will germinate at 40 degrees but it will take 6 weeks. A more practical temperature for planting outdoors is 50 degrees.
Seed Depth: 0.5"-1.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep.
Spacing: 6-12", 4 plants per sq ft. Chard grows fast and gets quite large. Space the plants 6" to 12" apart, depending upon the fertility of the soil and the growing method. If the plants are too crowded they will sometimes bolt prematurely.
Spring Crop:
0-2 weeks after last frost date: This is pretty straightforward and is the preferred method of growing Chard.
Rows:
1. Make the furrows ½˝ deep
2. Plant the seeds 1½˝ apart and re-fill with topsoil. If the soil isn’t very good, you could cover with a mix of half soil and half compost.
Broadcasting:
1. Scatter the seeds so they are spaced about 2-3˝ apart
2. Cover with a ½˝ layer of cover soil mix.
Fall Crop:
10-12 weeks before first frost date: The seeds will germinate and grow quickly in the warm soil of late summer
Rows:
1. Make the furrows ½˝ deep
2. Plant the seeds 1½˝ apart and re-fill with topsoil. If the soil isn’t very good, you could cover with a mix of half soil and half compost.
Broadcasting:
1. Scatter the seeds so they are spaced about 2-3˝ apart
2. Cover with a ½˝ of cover soil mix.
Support: No
Start Indoors
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Chard will germinate at 40 degrees but it will take 6 weeks. A more practical temperature for planting outdoors is 50 degrees.
Seed Depth: 0.5"-1.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep.
Spacing: 6-12", 4 plants per sq ft. Chard grows fast and gets quite large. Space the plants 6" to 12" apart, depending upon the fertility of the soil and the growing method. If the plants are too crowded they will sometimes bolt prematurely.
Spring Crop:
0-2 weeks after last frost date: This is pretty straightforward and is the preferred method of growing Chard.
Rows:
1. Make the furrows ½˝ deep
2. Plant the seeds 1½˝ apart and re-fill with topsoil. If the soil isn’t very good, you could cover with a mix of half soil and half compost.
Broadcasting:
1. Scatter the seeds so they are spaced about 2˝ to 3˝ apart
2. Cover with a ½˝ layer of cover soil mix.
Fall Crop:
10-12 weeks before first frost date: The seeds will germinate and grow quickly in the warm soil of late summer
Rows:
1. Make the furrows ½˝ deep
2. Plant the seeds 1½˝ apart and re-fill with topsoil. If the soil isn’t very good, you could cover with a mix of half soil and half compost.
Broadcasting:
1. Scatter the seeds so they are spaced about 2˝ to 3˝ apart
2. Cover with a ½˝ of cover soil mix.
Support: No
Water Needs: Moderate. Watering, regularly. Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week. Chard is relatively drought tolerant, though for highest quality and yields it should be well supplied with water. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Chard is a fairly hungry plant and will be most productive in a fertile soil.
Side Dressing, regularly: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., regularly, every 3 weeks
If you are going to be harvesting intensively, you should feed the plants regularly with diluted compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed). It's best to wait a week after fertilization until you begin to harvest again.
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Mulch, 2", after transplanting, 1 time. Mulch helps to keep down weeds while the plants are young (older plants can take care of themselves). It also helps to keep the soil cool and conserves moisture.
Thinning, after sowing: 3" apart, after sowing, 1 time. When all of the seeds germinate, you can start thinning. Don’t start too early though, as some may be damaged by cutworms, slugs, or other pests.
Thinning, when 3" tall: 6" apart, when 3" tall, 1 time. Thinning is best done in several stages as the plants get larger. You can use the thinnings for food, or as transplants (they transplant fairly well if less than 3˝ tall). The clusters don’t need much thinning as the strongest plant tends to take over.
Thinning, when 6" tall: 12" apart, when 6" tall, 1 time. If you want large plants you might even thin to the final spacing of 12" apart when the plants are 6" tall. You can use these thinnings for food.
Support: No
Harvesting
Storage
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: days
Use the leaves immediately after harvest, as they are thin and don’t keep for very long (only a few days in the fridge in a plastic bag).
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-5 days
Chard is a biennial, which means the root has to survive the winter before it can produce seed. In mild climates, you can simply leave them in the ground (cover with mulch if necessary). In colder climates you may have to lift the roots and store them in a root cellar, as described above. Replant the best roots in spring and the seed will ripen by midsummer. A flowering chard plant may get to be 8 feet tall and can be quite top heavy, so is often staked to prevent it from falling over.
You will get a lot of seed from one plant, let alone 5 plants, which is the minimum number required to maintain some genetic variability.
Seed Viability in Years: 3 - 5 years
Germination Percentage: 60%
Culinary
Sweet and tender.
Culinary Uses:
Swiss Chard has many delicious uses in the kitchen. The leaves and the stems are often separated before cooking. The leaves can be steamed, sauteed, added to soups, or stuffed, and is often used similarly to spinach. The stems can be steamed, sauteed, or roasted with a little garlic and Parmesan cheese for a nice gratin dish. Young chard is sweet and tender, and can be added to a salad of fresh greens.
Leaves and leaf stems: raw or cooked like spinach. A very good spinach substitute, the leaves are large and easily harvested, yields are high. Some people dislike the raw leaves since they can leave an unpleasant taste in the mouth.
Flowering stem: cooked. A broccoli substitute.
Medicinal
Companion Planting
Enemies: Don't grow chard near cucurbits, melons, corn or herbs.
Problems
Leaf Miner's
Flea Beetles
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
Damsel Bugs: Preys on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Flea beetles, Potato beetles, and Cabbage worms.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Preys on Aphids, small Caterpillars and Caterpillar eggs, Flea beetles, Fleahoppers, Lygus bugs, Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies.
To attract Big-Eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Aphids
Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus),
Masterwort (Astrantia major), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata),
Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white
sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata),
Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white
sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum – white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal
(Mentha pulegium), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil
(Potentilla villosa), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Marigold – lemon gem (Tagetes tenuifolia), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), and Zinnia – ‘liliput’ (Zinnia elegans).
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
Caterpillar
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Braconid Wasps: prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Hoverflies: Prey on aphids, scale insects, caterpillars, and Thrips.
To attract Hoverflies to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white
sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Praying Mantis: Preys on a wide range including caterpillars, moths, beetles, and crickets.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: tall grasses and shrubs, cosmos, marigolds, and dills.
Nutrition
The Health Benefits of Swiss Chard
Bone Health: Swiss chard has a significant amount of calcium in those leaves, which means that Swiss chard is a major boost for bone health. Calcium, as well as the other minerals found in this vegetable help to stimulate bone growth and development, including magnesium and vitamin K.
Brain Booster: Swiss chard is a valuable source of both potassium and vitamin K, both of which are found in significant amounts in the brain, and are integral parts of boosting cognitive development and abilities. Add some Swiss chard to your diet and expand your mind!
Blood Circulation: Iron and copper are both essential elements of red blood cells, and without those two minerals, people can develop anemia, which shows itself as weakness, fatigue, stomach disorders, and lack of concentration. By ensuring a proper amount of red blood cells by eating food like Swiss chard, you can increase circulation of the blood and oxygenation of essential organs within the body.
Blood Pressure and Heart Health: The anti-inflammatory and phytonutrient antioxidants found in Swiss chard, along with potassium, all contribute to reducing blood pressure and stress on the cardiovascular system. Some hypertension is due to pro-inflammatory enzymes within the body, which the organic compounds in Swiss chard are able to neutralize. Therefore, Swiss chard protects those who eat it from a variety of conditions like atherosclerosis, heart attacks and strokes.
Eye Health: Swiss chard has a huge amount of beta-carotene, which has been linked in many ways to optimal eye health and a reduction in macular degeneration, glaucoma, night blindness, and other vision-related conditions.
Hair Health: Biotin is an organic compound that has been directly linked to healthy hair, the stimulation of follicles, and as a way to increase luster and texture. Swiss chard also has significant amounts of biotin, among its many other beneficial compounds.
Cancer Prevention: Like many leafy, green vegetables, Swiss chard has anti-cancer properties due to the huge amounts of antioxidants found in it. Antioxidants neutralize free radicals, which are the dangerous byproducts of cellular metabolism that can cause healthy cells to become cancerous. Swiss chard contains significant amounts of vitamin E, C, zinc, lutein, zeaxanthin, kaempferol, beta-carotene, and quercetin. Many of these have been connected to preventing a wide variety of cancers, specifically colon cancer.
Suggested Varieties
Amaranth: Love Lies Bleeding (Heirloom) (Amaranthus caudatus)
Amaranth: Perfecta (Heirloom) (Amaranthus Tricolor 'Perfecta')
Amaranth: Red Garnet (Heirloom) (Amaranthus tricolor)
Angelica (Angelica atropurpurea)
Angelica is perennial native that stands 3-8' tall and is commonly found in woodlands and swampy areas near streams and rivers. It produces large, pale to dark purple hollow stems, with ¾-4½" long, medium to dark green sub leaflets. Being both edible and medicinal, this plant surely has a lot of offer any garden.
Balm: Lemon (Melissa officinalis)
Beans: Black Turtle (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
Beans: Blue Lake Bush #274 (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
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Beans: Contender Bush (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
Beans: Gold Rush Yellow Wax (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
Beans: Kentucky Wonder Pole (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
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Beans: Lazy Housewife Pole (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
Beans: Pinto (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
Beans: Red Yard Long (Heirloom) (Vigna unguiculata sesquipedalis)
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Bean: Royalty Purple Pod Green (Heirloom) (Phaseolus vulgaris)
Bergamot: Wild (Monarda fistulosa)
Cabbage: Early Jersey Wakefield (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
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Cabbage: Late Flat Dutch (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
Cabbage: Red Acre (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
Cabbage is considered one of the oldest cultivated vegetables, since historians trace it back to 4,000 BC in China. The Romans also cultivated it and praised it for its healing qualities; philosophers Pythagoras and Cato both made the lowly cabbage the subject of a book. Jacques Cartier brought the first cabbage to America in 1536. Cabbages were quite popular in colonial America, being pickled and preserved in every possible way to provide food for the winter.
Cabbage, Chinese: Pak Choi (Heirloom) (Brassica rapa var. chinensis)
Caraway (Carum carvi)
Carrots: Chantenay Red Cored (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Cosmic Purple (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Danvers (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Rainbow Blend (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Scarlet Nantes (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Tendersweet (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Chives: Garlic (Allium tuberosum)
Chives: Onion (Allium schoenoprasum var. album)
Clover: Crimson (Trifolium incarnatum)
Clover: Purple Prairie (Dalea purpurea)
Clover: Strawberry Palestine (Trifolium fragiferum)
Strawberry Palestine Clover is an introduced species that is native to the Mediterranean, as well as parts of central Europe and Asia. Growing to 9-12”, this hardy groundcover tolerates flooding and is great for grazing! It’s botanical name “fragiferum” translates to “strawberry bearing” since both the mature flower look and spread very much like strawberries!
Coriander: Leisure (Coriandrum sativum)
Cosmos: Bright Lights (Cosmos sulphureus)
Cosmos: Candy Stripe (Cosmos bipinnatus)
Cosmos: Radiance (Cosmos bipinnatus)
Dill: Dukat (Anethum graveolens)
English Marigold (Calendula officinalis)
Fennel: Florence (Foeniculum vulgare var. azoricum)
Marigolds: Naughty Marietta (Tagetes patula)
Marigolds: Sparky Mix French (Tagetes patula)
Marigold: White (Tagetes Erecta 'Kilimanjaro')
Commonly called African marigold, Aztec marigold, American marigold or big marigold, is native to Mexico and Central America. Big marigold may be the best descriptive name because plants are noted for their large flowerheads. They typically grow from 1-4’ tall and feature huge, mostly double-globular flowers (2-4” diameter) in various shades of yellow, orange, and whitish. This variety is unaffected by high summer heat and generally blooms throughout the summer.
Milkweed: Blood Flower (Asclepias curassavica)
Milkweed: Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa)
Milkweed: Common (Asclepias syriaca)
Milkweed: Showy (Asclepias speciosa)
Milkweed: Swamp (Asclepias incarnata)
As the name indicates, these swamp milkweed seeds for sale thrive in swamps and low meadows or along streams. The bright pink flowers attract swarms of bees and butterflies, and have a sweet scent described as similar to vanilla or cinnamon. At one time, the silk from swamp milkweed seed pods was spun for fabric or used for stuffing pillows; in World War II, school children gathered the silk to provide a cheap filling for soldiers' life jackets. Commercial attempts to make use of this abundant plant included the manufacture of paper, fabric, lubricant, fuel, and rubber; eventually these became impractical and were abandoned. Though this plant is toxic to most animals, butterflies are immune to the plant's poison and actually become rather poisonous themselves as protection from predators.
Mint: Pennyroyal (Mentha Pulegium)
Mint: Spear (Mentha spicata)
Nasturtiums: Empress of India (Tropaeolum minus)
Nasturtiums: Jewel Mix (Tropaeolum minus)
Onions: Cipollini, Red (Heirloom) (Allium cepa)
Red Cipollini, also known as Borettana, are heirloom Italian onions that were first cultivated in the 1400's in the town of Boretto, Italy. They have been known as “poor man’s onion” and “little onion” as well. Even though these sweet flat onions are tiny, they are a specialty produce that packs a strong flavor raw and get sweeter when cooked. These onions are perfect for grilling, pickling, or roasting.
Onions: Cipollini, Yellow (Organic) (Allium cepa)
Yellow Cipollini, also known as Borettana, are heirloom Italian onions that were first cultivated in the 1400's in the town of Boretto, Italy. They have been known as “poor man’s onion” and “little onion” as well. Even though these sweet flat onions are tiny, they are a specialty produce that packs a strong flavor raw and get sweeter when cooked. These onions are perfect for grilling, pickling, or roasting.
Onions: Evergreen White Bunching (Heirlooms) (Allium fistulosum)
Onions: Ruby Red (Heirloom) (Allium cepa)
Onions: Sweet Spanish White (Heirloom) (Allium cepa)
Onion: Sweet Spanish Yellow (Heirloom) (Allium cepa)
Onions: Walla Walla (Heirloom) (Allium cepa)
Walla Walla onions are native to the Pacific Northwest where they were developed by Peter Pieri in the city of Walla Walla, Washington in the early 1900’s. Washington State has also made this variety their State Vegetable due to the popularity of its mild sweet flavor and crispy.
Parsley: Hamburg Rooted (Heirloom) (Petroselinum crispum var. tuberosum)
Parsley: Italian Giant (Heirloom) (Petroselinum crispum var. neapolitanum)
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Penstemon: Rocky Mountain (Penstemon strictus)
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Radish: Early Scarlet Globe (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
Radish: French Breakfast (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
Radish: German Giant (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
Radish: Watermelon (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
The Watermelon radish is a type of Japanese winter radish also known as a "daikon," which simply means "large root" in Japanese. Daikon radishes account for the largest percentage of any cultivated vegetable in Japan, and can be found in some form in nearly every meal of that country. Watermelon radishes, which orginated in north China near Beijing, are often served sweetened there as a dessert or fruit.
Radish: White Spear Sprouting (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
Tomato: Amana Orange (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
Tomato: Arkansas Traveler (Heirloom) (Lycopersicon lycopersicum)
The Arkansas Traveler is an open-pollinated heirloom variety of tomato that was bred by the University of Arkansas in 1968. The plant is indeterminate with round red fruits weighing approximately 6-8 ounces