Celery: Utah Tall 52/70 (Heirloom) (Apium graveolens var. dulce)
Soil Preparation & Start Indoors
Transplant Outdoors & Start Outdoors
Harvesting & Storage
Nutrition & Health Benefits
Ease of Growing: Difficult
Grown as: Biennial
Days to Maturity: 100 days
Hardiness: Half Hardy. Celery is fairly hardy and actually prefers cool weather, but needs a long period of ideal growing conditions (60-70 degrees F) to perform well. It tends to bolt if it gets cold while young. It generally works best as a fall crop.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Spring, Fall Transplant, Fall
Growing Season: Long
Growing Conditions: Cool. Celery must be planned carefully, because it takes so long to grow to maturity from seed and then you get a large crop all at one time. Celery needs a long period (3 months) of cool temperatures (60 to 70 degrees F) for optimal quality. Temperatures above 80 degrees F may make it fibrous and very strongly flavored. Celery requires rich, loamy soil; heavy, consistent water; and patience. Incorporate lots of organic matter into the soil to help hold moisture. Avoid overhead watering which can collect between the stalks and promote disease and pest problems.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 40°F - 80°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 50°F. Don't plant celery outside until the daytime temperature stays above 50˚ F.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Cool). Celery doesn't like heat or intense sun and in hot climates will do better in light shade. It does need at least 6 hours of sun daily though.
Water: Medium. Consistent watering is the single most important factor in growing good celery, the soil should never be allowed to dry out. This may mean watering daily in dry weather, though every other day is more usual. Water is particularly critical as harvest time approaches, because this is the time of fastest growth (plants may double in size in their last month). Lack of water at this time can result in bitter, pungent, stringy plants with hollow stems. The best way to water celery is with a drip system or soaker hose.
Feeder: Heavy. Celery is a hungry plant that needs lots of nitrogen to produce its succulent growth. If the soil is poor, feed with compost tea or liquid kelp weekly.
Suitability: Tolerates light frost
Small Gardens?: Yes.
Containers?: Yes. It is possible to grow celery in containers, so long as you give it plenty of water. Choose a container that has a depth of at least 8", but preferably more. Make sure that your container has drainage holes. Fill with a mixture of potting soil and compost and water thoroughly. Firm your plants well, and fertilize with a mixture of fish and seaweed emulsion. Make sure to place your celery in an area where the temperature does not drop below 55 degrees F. Celery loves sunshine, so be sure to give it at least 6 hours a day. Water regularly (up to twice a day in warmer climates).
Attracts beneficial insects?: Yes. It's white flowers are known for attracting bees.
Forage: Rabbits. Cut into small pieces to prevent choking on strings!
Plant Height: 24-36"
Produces: stalks up to 30" tall.
USDA Hardiness Zones: 3-10
Garden Uses: Vegetable.
Soil pH: 6.0-7.0, Ideal 6.3-6.5. Wild Celery grows naturally near water and this is reflected in the plants preference for a rich, deep, moist (but not wet), fairly acid soil, with lots of organic matter. It is a hungry crop, requiring a lot of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Add lime if the soil is acidic.
Standard Mix, 5 pounds per 100 sq. ft., in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Standard Mix is used to supply phosphorus (colloidal phosphate), potassium (wood ashes or greensand) and micronutrients (kelp). Incorporate it into the top 6" of soil along with the compost. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
- 4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
- 2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
- 2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
- 1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
- 1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Compost (Nitrogen), 2", in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Incorporate a source of organic matter to supply nitrogen and to increase its water holding capacity (use 2" of compost or aged manure). If the soil is heavy, or compacted, you might also think about double digging.
The traditional way to grow Celery was in trenches 12" deep by 12" wide. These were filled with an enriched soil mix.
Soil temp for germination: 40°F to 85°F, optimal 60°F to 70°F, optimal 68°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 10 to 17 (Spring/Summer), 11 to 17 (Fall/Winter)
14-18 weeks before first frost date: Celery seed can be temperamental. It sometimes germinates fairly easily (if slowly), but at other times it is very reluctant. Light may be a factor, but it may also require a daily fluctuation in temperature (to 60° or lower at night). Temperatures above 80°F may inhibit germination. Soaking the seed in hot (120° F) water (or dilute bleach solution) for a half hour (or overnight in manure tea) may also help. Celery is usually started indoors, because it is so slow growing initially. It doesn't mind transplanting when young, so is commonly started in flats.
8-10 weeks before last frost date: Celery seed can be temperamental. It sometimes germinates fairly easily (if slowly), but at other times it is very reluctant. Light may be a factor, but it may also require a daily fluctuation in temperature (to 60° or lower at night). Temperatures above 80°F may inhibit germination. Soaking the seed in hot (120° F) water (or dilute bleach solution) for a half hour (or overnight in manure tea) may also help. Celery is usually started indoors, because it is so slow growing initially. It doesn't mind transplanting when young, so is commonly started in flats.
Harden Off: 1 weeks before last frost date. The seedlings should be hardened off for a few days before planting out.
0-2 weeks after last frost date: The seedlings prefer a fairly cool 60°F temperature for growth. Pick out the seedlings when they have their first true leaves, as they seem to benefit from transplanting at this stage. As always, take care to keep them moist. They should take 8 to 12 weeks to reach 5" in height, which is the ideal transplant size. The seedlings should be hardened off for a few days before planting out. When transplanting make sure you keep the root ball of each plant as intact as possible. It is important not to expose the seedling to temperatures below 50° F, as it could vernalize them. They would then react to warmer weather by bolting prematurely. If cold weather returns you will have to protect them with cloches.
Cool: Celery must be planned carefully, because it takes so long to grow to maturity from seed and then you get a large crop all at one time. Celery needs a long period (3 months) of cool temperatures (60 to 70 degrees F) for optimal quality. Temperatures above 80 degrees F may make it fibrous and very strongly flavored. Celery requires rich, loamy soil; heavy, consistent water; and patience. Incorporate lots of organic matter into the soil to help hold moisture. Avoid overhead watering which can collect between the stalks and promote disease and pest problems.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Don't plant celery outside until the daytime temperature stays above 50˚F.
Spacing: 8-12", 1 plants per sq ft. The plants are normally arranged in offset rows across the bed. The spacing varies from 8-12", depending upon the fertility of the soil. Plants have been spaced as close as 6" to get a greater quantity of smaller plants.
When outdoor temp: 40°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Don't plant celery outside until the daytime temperature stays above 50˚F.
Seed Depth: 0.125"-0.25". It is sometimes said that the seed must be scattered on the surface and left uncovered, as it needs light to germinate. I haven't found this to be the case though and usually cover it very lightly, so it keeps more evenly moist.
Spacing: 8-12", 1 plants per sq ft. The plants are normally arranged in offset rows across the bed. The spacing varies from 8" to 12", depending upon the fertility of the soil. Plants have been spaced as close as 6" to get a greater quantity of smaller plants.
2 weeks before last frost date: Celery can be direct sown, but this is so slow it is only practical in areas with very long, cool growing seasons, such as parts of coastal California. There it is planted in spring to mature in late summer or fall. Of course you still run into the usual problem with direct sowing; the small plants take up bed space, that might be used more profitably for other crops.
Direct sow 2 weeks before last frost: The seed should be sown as early in spring as possible. Use cloches to warm the soil and protect the young seedlings during early growth. In cold soil germination may take up to a month. Usually it is sown quite thickly and harvest thinned several times (the thinnings can be used in the kitchen).
12-16 weeks before first frost date: Celery generally does better as a fall crop, planted in mid to late summer. It then matures in the cool weather of fall. Start your fall plants 3 to 4 months before first fall frost.
Water Needs: High. Consistent watering is the single most important factor in growing good celery, the soil should never be allowed to dry out. This may mean watering daily in dry weather, though every other day is more usual. Water is particularly critical as harvest time approaches, because this is the time of fastest growth (plants may double in size in their last month). Lack of water at this time can result in bitter, pungent, stringy plants with hollow stems. The best way to water celery is with a drip system or soaker hose.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Celery is a hungry plant that needs lots of nitrogen to produce its succulent growth. If the soil is poor, feed with compost tea or liquid kelp weekly.
Weeding, regularly: Water, 0.5 inch(es), regularly, 4 times a week. Consistent watering is the single most important factor in growing good Celery, the soil should never be allowed to dry out. This may mean watering daily in dry weather, though every other day is more usual. Water is particularly critical as harvest time approaches, because this is the time of fastest growth (plants may double in size in their last month). Lack of water at this time can result in bitter, pungent, stringy plants with hollow stems. The best way to water Celery is with a drip system or soaker hose.
Protecting, after transplanting: Mulch, 2 inches, after transplanting, 1 time. Mulch to conserve moisture, keep down weeds and keep the soil cooler.
Side Dressing, after planting: Compost tea, 5 gallons per 100 sq. ft., after planting, every 3 weeks
Celery needs lots of nitrogen to produce its succulent growth. If the soil is poor, feed with compost tea or liquid kelp regularly.
Look for uniformly green stalks.
When and How:
Whole Fruit: 1-28 days after maturity.
When: You can harvest individual stalks of Celery as soon as they are big enough to be worthwhile. This does adversely affect the final size of the plants, but also extends the harvest time.
How: Harvest whole plants when the stems are 18˝ to 20˝ tall, by cutting them down at ground level. For best flavor and longest storage, water the plants the day before harvest.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 7-14 days
Celery can be dried but must be blanched first. Boil stalks for 1 minute and then place in cold or even ice water. Slice into 1/4" squares and dry at 130 to 140˚ F. In roughly 5 or 6 hours the celery should be crispy. Let it cool down for 15 minutes. Place in airtight containers and store in a dark cool location.
Storage Req: Cool, Dry, Drying
Storage Temp: 55-70°F
Storage Length: 180-360 days
Celery flowers in the spring of its second year. The plants are cross-pollinated by insects, which makes it hard to save more than one variety at a time (unless you isolate the plants by 1000 feet or more). Save the seed from at least 6 plants to ensure genetic variability. When most of the seed is ripe on the plant, cut the entire head and dry it in a paper bag. Be aware that some fungal diseases can be seed borne.
Seed Viability in Years: 3 - 5 years
Germination Percentage: 55%
Culinary Use: Celery is a mandatory ingredient in most kitchens and a staple in restaurant kitchens. It can be used raw in salads, or cooked in soups and stews for its bouquet of flavor. It is sometimes stuffed to serve as an appetizer.
Leaf stems: raw or cooked. A fairly common salad ingredient, celery stems are also used to make soups, stews etc. The winter varieties can be bitter if they are not blanched by excluding light from the stems for at least a few weeks prior to harvesting. Many people find the raw stalks are somewhat indigestible.
Leaves: raw or cooked. They are often used as a flavoring in soups etc. They can also be eaten raw but have a very strong flavor and are probably best as a minor ingredient in a mixed salad.
Seed: used as a flavoring for sauces, soups, pickles etc. An essential oil from the seed is also used as a flavoring.
Root: cooked. There is not much of it but it can be cut up and added to soups.
Known hazards: If the plant is infected with the fungus Sclerotinia sclerotiorum, skin contact with the sap can cause dermatitis in sensitive people.
Companions: Interplant with leeks in trenches, and fill gradually with soil to blanch both vegetables.
Both are potassium lovers; feed with fish emulsion to encourage better growth.
Enemies: None known.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea ﬁlipendulina),
Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), \Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris),
Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa ofﬁcinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda ﬁstulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys ofﬁcinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea ﬁlipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunﬂower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum ofﬁcinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado Potato Beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: Evening Primrose, Amaranthus, and Clover.
The Health Benefits of Celery
Reduced cholesterol: Eating celery every day may reduce artery-clogging cholesterol (called LDL or “bad” cholesterol). The pthalides in celery also stimulates the secretion of bile juices, which works to reduce cholesterol levels. Less cholesterol means less plaque on the artery walls and a general improvement in heart health. The fiber that is found in celery also works to scrape the cholesterol out of the bloodstream and eliminate it from the body with regular bowel movements, further boosting cardiovascular health.
Antiseptic: Celery seeds help in the elimination of uric acid because it is commonly used for its diuretic properties, meaning that it stimulates urination. Therefore, celery is good for people with bladder disorders, kidney problems, cystitis, and other similar conditions. Celery seeds also assist in preventing urinary tract infections in women.
Healthy joints: Celery is great for people suffering from arthritis, rheumatism and gout. It had anti-inflammatory properties that help to reduce swelling and pain around the joints. Celery sticks also act as a diuretic, which helps to remove uric acid crystals that build up around the body’s joints that can add to the pain and discomfort of frequent joint use. It can also increase the regrowth of tissue in inflamed joints.
Prevents cancer: Celery contains phthalides, flavonoids, and polyacetylenes. These cancer-fighting components detoxify carcinogens. Celery also contains coumarins that enhance the activity of certain white blood cells, which can effectively stave off cancer as well. These antioxidant components seek out free radicals floating in the body and damaging organs and neutralize them before they can result in the development of serious conditions like cancer.
Improved immune system: Celery is rich in vitamin C, which greatly boosts the strength of the immune system. Stimulated by the activity of other antioxidants in celery, it becomes more active and efficient. Because of the high content of vitamin C in celery, eating it regularly can reduce your risk of catching the common cold, as well as protecting you against a variety of other diseases.
Reduces Asthma Symptoms: Vitamin-C prevents free radical damage and it also has anti-inflammatory properties that lessen the severity of inflammatory conditions like asthma.
Cardiovascular health: The notable presence of vitamin C, fiber, and other organic chemicals in the roots of celery promotes cardiovascular health.
Diuretic activity: Celery is rich in both sodium and potassium, and both of these minerals help to regulate the fluid balance in the body. Potassium also acts as a vasodilator, reducing blood pressure.
Relief from migraines: The presence of coumarins can provide relief from migraines. The exact mechanism isn’t completely understood, but research points to a suppression of Nitric Oxide release in the brain which can cause headaches and migraines.
Treats rheumatism: Celery extracts, which contain 85% 3nB, are effective for treating arthritis and muscular pains.
Diabetes Health: Celery leaves are also eaten for treating diabetic conditions, particularly because they are high in fiber, which has been shown to help manage diabetic symptoms.
Relief from ophthalmological diseases: Dripping celery tea drops on eyelids is good for certain ophthalmological conditions, and can improve your eye health, reduce your chances of developing cataracts, and protects you against macular degeneration.
Nerve calming properties: Celery contains high calcium and due to this it is commonly used to calm the nerves.
Weight loss: Health benefits of celery include weight management. Regular drinking of celery juice before meals may help you to reduce your weight. This is because celery is very low in calories, but it is very filling because of the fiber content. Therefore, it can help reduce the tendency to overeat and help you keep the weight down without feeling hungry all the time!
Other benefits: Celery acts as an antioxidant as well, and in truth, all parts of celery including the seeds, roots and leaves can be used. Eating celery regularly helps to avoid diseases of the kidney, pancreas, liver and gallbladder; neuritis, constipation, asthma, high blood pressure, catarrh, pyorrhea and dropsy, mental exhaustion, acidosis, anemia, obesity and tuberculosis. It also helps in the overall health and strength of teeth.
Word of caution: Celery seeds contain volatile oils, flavonoids, coumarins and linoleic acid and are therefore not good for pregnant women because they may cause contractions in the uterus. Other than that, eat as many of those crunchy, green, and healthy stalks as you can!
Amaranth: Love Lies Bleeding (Heirloom) (Amaranthus caudatus)
Amaranth: Red Garnet (Heirloom) (Amaranthus tricolor)
Balm: Lemon (Melissa officinalis)
Beets: Cylindra (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris)
Beets: Detroit Dark Red (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris)
Only a few left!
Beets: Golden Detroit (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris)
Beets seem to have originated in the Mediterranean region, where people grew them for thousands of years. Later, beets grew in Germany and Holland and were used as cattle fodder; they were later imported to England for this purpose, but the poor began to raise them for an affordable food source. American colonists later brought them to the New World, where they became a commonly enjoyed food both for their roots and their greens. According to historians, George Washington experimented with beets, cross-pollinating them to create new varieties.
Bergamot: Wild (Monarda fistulosa)
Broccoli: Green Sprouting Calabrese (Organic) (Brassica oleracea var. italica)
Broccoli: Purple Sprouting (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. italica)
Broccoli: Waltham 29 (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. italica)
Brussels Sprout: Long Island Improved (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. gemmifera)
Cabbage: Early Jersey Wakefield (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
Cabbage: Late Flat Dutch (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
Cabbage: Red Acre (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
Cabbage is considered one of the oldest cultivated vegetables, since historians trace it back to 4,000 BC in China. The Romans also cultivated it and praised it for its healing qualities; philosophers Pythagoras and Cato both made the lowly cabbage the subject of a book. Jacques Cartier brought the first cabbage to America in 1536. Cabbages were quite popular in colonial America, being pickled and preserved in every possible way to provide food for the winter.
Caraway (Carum carvi)
Carrots: Chantenay Red Cored (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Cosmic Purple (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Danvers (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Rainbow Blend (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Scarlet Nantes (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Tendersweet (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Cauliflower: Snowball Y Improved (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. botrytis)
Chives: Garlic (Allium tuberosum)
Chives: Onion (Allium schoenoprasum var. album)
Clover: Crimson (Trifolium incarnatum)
Coriander: Leisure (Coriandrum sativum)
Corn: Country Gentleman-Open Pollinated (Heirloom) (Zea mays)
Corn: Golden Bantam-Open Pollinated (Heirloom) (Zea mays)
Corn, Popcorn: Shaman's Blue (Hybrid) Open Pollinated (Zea mays)
Blue corn originated in the Andes Mountains of Peru, where the native peoples usually ground it into flour for cooking. Indians of Mexico and the southwestern United States also widely used this corn, since its dryness made it an excellent flour corn and gave it good resistance to disease. This exciting blue popcorn receives high marks for both visual and taste appeal. The unique blue/purple kernel pops into mounds of snow white popcorn that will satisfy any popcorn lover with its slightly sweet flavor.
Cosmos: Bright Lights (Cosmos sulphureus)
Cosmos: Candy Stripe (Cosmos bipinnatus)
Cosmos: Radiance (Cosmos bipinnatus)
Cucumber: Lemon (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: Marketmore 76' (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: Mexican Sour Gherkin (Heirloom) (Melothria scabra)
Cucumber: National Pickling (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: Straight Eight (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: Sumter (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: White Wonder (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
This high yielding ivory white cucumber variety was introduced into the U.S. and first offered by Burpee Seed Company in 1893. White Wonder Cucumbers are delicious raw, in salads, or pickled.
Cucumber: Wisconsin SMR 58 (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Dill: Dukat (Anethum graveolens)
English Marigold (Calendula officinalis)
Fennel: Florence (Foeniculum vulgare var. azoricum)
Leeks: Giant Musselburg (Heirloom) (Allium porrum)
Lettuce: Bibb (Heirloom)
Lettuce: Freckles Romaine (Heirloom)
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Lettuce: Oakleaf (Heirloom)
Lettuce: Red Romaine (Heirloom)
Marigolds: Naughty Marietta (Tagetes patula)
Marigolds: Sparky Mix French (Tagetes patula)
Marigold: White (Tagetes Erecta 'Kilimanjaro')
Commonly called African marigold, Aztec marigold, American marigold or big marigold, is native to Mexico and Central America. Big marigold may be the best descriptive name because plants are noted for their large flowerheads. They typically grow from 1-4’ tall and feature huge, mostly double-globular flowers (2-4” diameter) in various shades of yellow, orange, and whitish. This variety is unaffected by high summer heat and generally blooms throughout the summer.
Milkweed: Showy (Asclepias speciosa)
Milkweed: Swamp (Asclepias incarnata)
As the name indicates, these swamp milkweed seeds for sale thrive in swamps and low meadows or along streams. The bright pink flowers attract swarms of bees and butterflies, and have a sweet scent described as similar to vanilla or cinnamon. At one time, the silk from swamp milkweed seed pods was spun for fabric or used for stuffing pillows; in World War II, school children gathered the silk to provide a cheap filling for soldiers' life jackets. Commercial attempts to make use of this abundant plant included the manufacture of paper, fabric, lubricant, fuel, and rubber; eventually these became impractical and were abandoned. Though this plant is toxic to most animals, butterflies are immune to the plant's poison and actually become rather poisonous themselves as protection from predators.
Mint: Pennyroyal (Mentha Pulegium)
Nasturtiums: Empress of India (Tropaeolum minus)
Nasturtiums: Jewel Mix (Tropaeolum minus)
Parsley: Italian Giant (Heirloom) (Petroselinum crispum var. neapolitanum)
Penstemon: Rocky Mountain (Penstemon strictus)
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Poached Egg Plant (Limnanthes douglasii)
This native species was first discovered by David Douglas, a Scottish botanist commissioned to collect native American plants suitable for the gardens of Great Britain. The species name "douglasii" honors his discovery, while the genus name "Limnanthes" means "marsh flower" because of this plant's preference for moist soil. This fragrant butterfly magnet has been awarded the Royal Horticultural Society's prestigious Award of Garden Merit.
Radish: Early Scarlet Globe (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
Radish: German Giant (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
Radish: Watermelon (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
The Watermelon radish is a type of Japanese winter radish also known as a "daikon," which simply means "large root" in Japanese. Daikon radishes account for the largest percentage of any cultivated vegetable in Japan, and can be found in some form in nearly every meal of that country. Watermelon radishes, which orginated in north China near Beijing, are often served sweetened there as a dessert or fruit.