Beets: Detroit Dark Red (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris)
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Detroit Dark Red heirloom beets hail from Ontario, Canada, where a Mr. Reeves developed them from blood turnips. This globular beet first made its appearance in 1892. However, beets seem to have originated in the Mediterranean region, where people grew them for thousands of years. Later, beets grew in Germany and Holland and were used as cattle fodder; they were later imported to England for this purpose, but the poor began to raise them for an affordable food source. American colonists later brought them to the New World, where they became a commonly enjoyed food both for their roots and their greens.
Scientific Name: Beta vulgaris
Native Range: Canada
Ease of Growing: Easy
Grown as: Biennial
Days to Maturity: 60 days
Hardiness: Hardy. Beets can be frost tolerant and are a good winter crop for milder areas. Beets are hardy, and can be grown year-round under the proper circumstances.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Spring, Fall
Growing Season: Short, Long
Cultivar Type: Early
Growing Conditions: Cold, Cool. Beets are quite fast growing, taking 50 to 80 days to maturity. They like cool weather and grow best with warm days (60 to 70 F) and cool nights. In most of the United States this means growing them as a spring or fall crop. They grow well enough in warm weather, but the high temperatures can cause the roots to be tough, unevenly colored (zoned), somewhat bitter (or lacking sweetness) and generally of lesser quality.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 50°F - 80°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 50°F. Beets can germinate in cold (40 degree) soil, but they are very slow. They germinate best at 70 degrees.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Full Sun to Part Shade. Min. 6 hours daily (Cool). The plants need full sun for best growth, especially when they are growing as a fall or winter crop.
Water: Medium. Consistent watering is essential for good root production. Beets grown without sufficient water may have tough, woody roots and show concentric whitish zoning. They may also bolt prematurely. Too much water may result in bushy, luxuriant tops and small roots. Irregular watering may cause splitting.
Soil Moisture: Medium. Moist, fertile, organically rich, light to sandy, well-drained soils.
Feeder: Moderate. Beets aren't very hungry plants, though they do like phosphorus and potassium.
Suitability: Tolerates light frost, Needs summer shade
Small Gardens?: Yes
Containers?: Yes. Beets can be grown in containers, though they aren't as productive as when grown in the ground. You will need a container that is a minimum of 12 inches deep and 8 inches in diameter. Fill the container with either soilless potting mix (compost, perlite and coco-fiber) or a mixture of compost and standard potting soil. Sow the seeds 1/2 inch deep and 1 inch apart (do not overcrowd, as this will stunt the root growth.) Water regularly, taking care not to over-saturate the soil. Keep the soil moist but not soaked. Lightly fertilize after about 2-3 weeks of growth. Beets are extremely hardy, and can be grown year-round under the proper circumstances.
Attracts Beneficial Insects?: No
Maintenance: Low
Forage: Rabbits. Greens and Roots.
Plant Height: 12-18"
Sow Depth: 1/4-3/4"
Spacing: 2-4"
Hardiness Zone: 3-10
Produces: 3" uniformly dark red, round beets with red stemmed, dark green tops.
Native Range: Canada
Ease of Growing: Easy
Grown as: Biennial
Days to Maturity: 60 days
Hardiness: Hardy. Beets can be frost tolerant and are a good winter crop for milder areas. Beets are hardy, and can be grown year-round under the proper circumstances.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Spring, Fall
Growing Season: Short, Long
Cultivar Type: Early
Growing Conditions: Cold, Cool. Beets are quite fast growing, taking 50 to 80 days to maturity. They like cool weather and grow best with warm days (60 to 70 F) and cool nights. In most of the United States this means growing them as a spring or fall crop. They grow well enough in warm weather, but the high temperatures can cause the roots to be tough, unevenly colored (zoned), somewhat bitter (or lacking sweetness) and generally of lesser quality.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 50°F - 80°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 50°F. Beets can germinate in cold (40 degree) soil, but they are very slow. They germinate best at 70 degrees.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Full Sun to Part Shade. Min. 6 hours daily (Cool). The plants need full sun for best growth, especially when they are growing as a fall or winter crop.
Water: Medium. Consistent watering is essential for good root production. Beets grown without sufficient water may have tough, woody roots and show concentric whitish zoning. They may also bolt prematurely. Too much water may result in bushy, luxuriant tops and small roots. Irregular watering may cause splitting.
Soil Moisture: Medium. Moist, fertile, organically rich, light to sandy, well-drained soils.
Feeder: Moderate. Beets aren't very hungry plants, though they do like phosphorus and potassium.
Suitability: Tolerates light frost, Needs summer shade
Small Gardens?: Yes
Containers?: Yes. Beets can be grown in containers, though they aren't as productive as when grown in the ground. You will need a container that is a minimum of 12 inches deep and 8 inches in diameter. Fill the container with either soilless potting mix (compost, perlite and coco-fiber) or a mixture of compost and standard potting soil. Sow the seeds 1/2 inch deep and 1 inch apart (do not overcrowd, as this will stunt the root growth.) Water regularly, taking care not to over-saturate the soil. Keep the soil moist but not soaked. Lightly fertilize after about 2-3 weeks of growth. Beets are extremely hardy, and can be grown year-round under the proper circumstances.
Attracts Beneficial Insects?: No
Maintenance: Low
Forage: Rabbits. Greens and Roots.
Plant Height: 12-18"
Sow Depth: 1/4-3/4"
Spacing: 2-4"
Hardiness Zone: 3-10
Produces: 3" uniformly dark red, round beets with red stemmed, dark green tops.
Soil Preparation
Soil Preference:
Soil pH: 6.0-8.0, Ideal 6.4-6.6. Beets do well in most soils, but the ideal is loose, sandy, well drained and close to neutral (they dislike acid soils). It should be quite fertile as continuous uninterrupted growth is necessary to produce good roots. If the soil is poor, growth will be irregular and the roots will show concentric growth rings (zoning).
Soil Preparation:
Standard Mix, 5 pound(s) per 100 sq. ft., in top 8" of soil: A standard mix will supply everything the plants need, including essential boron and other trace elements. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Compost (Nitrogen), 2", in top 8" of soil, 1 time: Beets don’t need a lot of nitrogen, as it encourages top growth and retards sugar storage. Fork 2˝ of compost or aged manure (not fresh) into the top 6˝ to 8˝ of soil. This is where most of the plant's feeder roots are found, though these deep rooted plants may go down to 24˝ or more. To grow good roots in heavy soil, dig a trench and fill it with a mix of compost (or aged manure), sifted soil and sand.
Soil pH: 6.0-8.0, Ideal 6.4-6.6. Beets do well in most soils, but the ideal is loose, sandy, well drained and close to neutral (they dislike acid soils). It should be quite fertile as continuous uninterrupted growth is necessary to produce good roots. If the soil is poor, growth will be irregular and the roots will show concentric growth rings (zoning).
Soil Preparation:
Standard Mix, 5 pound(s) per 100 sq. ft., in top 8" of soil: A standard mix will supply everything the plants need, including essential boron and other trace elements. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
- 4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
- 2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
- 2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
- 1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
- 1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Compost (Nitrogen), 2", in top 8" of soil, 1 time: Beets don’t need a lot of nitrogen, as it encourages top growth and retards sugar storage. Fork 2˝ of compost or aged manure (not fresh) into the top 6˝ to 8˝ of soil. This is where most of the plant's feeder roots are found, though these deep rooted plants may go down to 24˝ or more. To grow good roots in heavy soil, dig a trench and fill it with a mix of compost (or aged manure), sifted soil and sand.
Start Indoors
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.75". Plant the seed 1/4" to 1/2" to 3/4" deep, depending on the warmth and dryness of soil. The cooler or wetter the soil, the shallower you should plant.
Soil temp for germination: 50°F to 85°F, optimal 70°F to 80°F, optimal 77°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 8 to 10 (Spring/Summer), 10 to 11 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
6-8 weeks before last frost date: When: Beets can be grown from transplants, started inside 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost date. They would just be a little earlier which is an advantage if you have warmer late spring weather and want an early spring crop.
How: Cell packs or soil blocks work best as beets don’t like root disturbance. Plant one seed capsule in each cavity.
Soil temp for germination: 50°F to 85°F, optimal 70°F to 80°F, optimal 77°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 8 to 10 (Spring/Summer), 10 to 11 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
6-8 weeks before last frost date: When: Beets can be grown from transplants, started inside 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost date. They would just be a little earlier which is an advantage if you have warmer late spring weather and want an early spring crop.
How: Cell packs or soil blocks work best as beets don’t like root disturbance. Plant one seed capsule in each cavity.
Transplant Outdoors
On last frost date: Plant out the transplants no earlier than the last frost date, as they aren’t very hardy. To get an earlier start you could warm the soil with cloches before planting (and cover the seedlings with cloches).
Cold, Cool: Beets are quite fast growing, taking 50 to 80 days to maturity. They like cool weather and grow best with warm days (60 to 70 F) and cool nights. In most of the United States this means growing them as a spring or fall crop. They grow well enough in warm weather, but the high temperatures can cause the roots to be tough, unevenly colored (zoned), somewhat bitter (or lacking sweetness) and generally of lesser quality.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Beets can germinate in cold (40 degree) soil, but they are very slow. They germinate best at 70 degrees.
Spacing: 3"-5", 9 plants per sq ft. The distance between plants has a direct effect on the final size of the root, the closer the spacing, the smaller the root. Spacing also affects the time they take to mature, the more room they have the faster they will mature.
Suggested spacing:
5" spacing: Large roots or poor soil.
4" spacing: Main summer planting.
3" spacing: Small roots for pickling.
Support: No
Cold, Cool: Beets are quite fast growing, taking 50 to 80 days to maturity. They like cool weather and grow best with warm days (60 to 70 F) and cool nights. In most of the United States this means growing them as a spring or fall crop. They grow well enough in warm weather, but the high temperatures can cause the roots to be tough, unevenly colored (zoned), somewhat bitter (or lacking sweetness) and generally of lesser quality.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Beets can germinate in cold (40 degree) soil, but they are very slow. They germinate best at 70 degrees.
Spacing: 3"-5", 9 plants per sq ft. The distance between plants has a direct effect on the final size of the root, the closer the spacing, the smaller the root. Spacing also affects the time they take to mature, the more room they have the faster they will mature.
Suggested spacing:
5" spacing: Large roots or poor soil.
4" spacing: Main summer planting.
3" spacing: Small roots for pickling.
Support: No
Start Outdoors
When Cold, Cool: Beets are quite fast growing, taking 50 to 80 days to maturity. They like cool weather and grow best with warm days (60 to 70 F) and cool nights. In most of the United States this means growing them as a spring or fall crop. They grow well enough in warm weather, but the high temperatures can cause the roots to be tough, unevenly colored (zoned), somewhat bitter (or lacking sweetness) and generally of lesser quality.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Beets can germinate in cold (40 degree) soil, but they are very slow. They germinate best at 70 degrees.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.75". Plant the seed 1/4" to 1/2" to 3/4" deep, depending on the warmth and dryness of soil. The cooler or wetter the soil, the shallower you should plant.
Spacing: 3.0"-5.0", 9 plants per sq ft. The distance between plants has a direct effect on the final size of the root, the closer the spacing, the smaller the root. Spacing also affects the time they take to mature, the more room they have the faster they will mature.
Suggested spacing:
5" spacing: Large roots or poor soil.
4" spacing: Main summer planting.
3" spacing: Small roots for pickling.
Spring Crop:
2 weeks before last frost date: Traditionally Beets are direct sown, starting two weeks before the last frost date. The soil should be at least 50˚ F for good germination.
Broadcasting: Sow the seeds so they are spaced about 2˝ apart. It’s easier to get the proper spacing with these large seeds, than it is with smaller seed such as Carrot. The scattered seed is then covered with a layer of soil. If the soil in the bed has a tendency to crust, use a mixture of topsoil and compost to cover them.
Rows: The seed can also be sown in rows. Simply make shallow furrows across the bed, drop a seed every 2˝ and re-fill the furrow (use cover soil if necessary).
Fall Crop:
6-10 weeks before first frost date: Beets can also be planted in late summer, 6 to 10 weeks before first fall frost date (they work well as a fall crop). This is the crop to store for winter. In mild winter areas your fall planted Beets will continue to grow slowly over the winter and can be harvested as needed.
Broadcasting: Sow the seeds so they are spaced about 2˝ apart. It’s easier to get the proper spacing with these large seeds, than it is with smaller seed such as Carrot. The scattered seed is then covered with a layer of soil. If the soil in the bed has a tendency to crust, use a mixture of topsoil and compost to cover them.
Rows: The seed can also be sown in rows. Simply make shallow furrows across the bed, drop a seed every 2˝ and re-fill the furrow (use cover soil if necessary).
Support: No
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 80°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 50°F. Beets can germinate in cold (40 degree) soil, but they are very slow. They germinate best at 70 degrees.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.75". Plant the seed 1/4" to 1/2" to 3/4" deep, depending on the warmth and dryness of soil. The cooler or wetter the soil, the shallower you should plant.
Spacing: 3.0"-5.0", 9 plants per sq ft. The distance between plants has a direct effect on the final size of the root, the closer the spacing, the smaller the root. Spacing also affects the time they take to mature, the more room they have the faster they will mature.
Suggested spacing:
5" spacing: Large roots or poor soil.
4" spacing: Main summer planting.
3" spacing: Small roots for pickling.
Spring Crop:
2 weeks before last frost date: Traditionally Beets are direct sown, starting two weeks before the last frost date. The soil should be at least 50˚ F for good germination.
Broadcasting: Sow the seeds so they are spaced about 2˝ apart. It’s easier to get the proper spacing with these large seeds, than it is with smaller seed such as Carrot. The scattered seed is then covered with a layer of soil. If the soil in the bed has a tendency to crust, use a mixture of topsoil and compost to cover them.
Rows: The seed can also be sown in rows. Simply make shallow furrows across the bed, drop a seed every 2˝ and re-fill the furrow (use cover soil if necessary).
Fall Crop:
6-10 weeks before first frost date: Beets can also be planted in late summer, 6 to 10 weeks before first fall frost date (they work well as a fall crop). This is the crop to store for winter. In mild winter areas your fall planted Beets will continue to grow slowly over the winter and can be harvested as needed.
Broadcasting: Sow the seeds so they are spaced about 2˝ apart. It’s easier to get the proper spacing with these large seeds, than it is with smaller seed such as Carrot. The scattered seed is then covered with a layer of soil. If the soil in the bed has a tendency to crust, use a mixture of topsoil and compost to cover them.
Rows: The seed can also be sown in rows. Simply make shallow furrows across the bed, drop a seed every 2˝ and re-fill the furrow (use cover soil if necessary).
Support: No
Beets should grow quickly for the sweetest and most tender roots. They can only do this if they get everything they need, when they need it.
Water Needs: Moderate. Consistent watering is essential for good root production. Beets grown without sufficient water may have tough, woody roots and show concentric whitish zoning. They may also bolt prematurely. Too much water may result in bushy, luxuriant tops and small roots. Irregular watering may cause splitting.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Beets aren't very hungry plants, though they do like phosphorus and potassium.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week. Keep the soil evenly moist, but don’t over-water. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Thinning, after sowing: 2" apart, after sowing, 1 time. If germination is good, you will have a little clump of seedlings every 2˝. These clumps thin themselves to some extent, with the largest and most vigorous ones eventually crowding out the others. It is extremely important that the plants are thinned properly, as insufficient thinning is one of the most common reasons that plants fail to grow good roots.
First thinning: Thin the plants soon after they all emerge, when they are about an inch tall. Do this at the same time you are weeding them, ideally in cool cloudy weather. The first thinning should give you a single plant every 2˝. Don’t thin them to the final spacing at this time, as some might not survive.
Side Dressing, after planting: Mulch, 2", after planting, 1 time. Mulch helps to keep down weeds and conserves moisture. Wait until the soil is warm before applying it, however.
Thinning, when 3" tall: 4" apart, when 3" tall, 1 time. Second thinning: Thin the plants to the desired final spacing when they are 3 - 4" tall and the roots have swollen to an inch in diameter. The thinnings from this round are big enough to eat in salads or stir-fries.
Weeding, up to early fruit set: up to early fruit set, 1 time a week. Beets won’t grow well if they have to compete with weeds, so make sure they are weeded properly. This is particularly important when they are young and don’t have enough foliage to cover the ground. It is best to hand weed Beets as the shoulders of the roots are easily damaged by weeding tools.
Watering, before harvest: Water, 1", before harvest, 1 time a week. Give them extra water when the roots are sizing up to boost their final size. You want to give your plants a total of 2" a week. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Support: No
Water Needs: Moderate. Consistent watering is essential for good root production. Beets grown without sufficient water may have tough, woody roots and show concentric whitish zoning. They may also bolt prematurely. Too much water may result in bushy, luxuriant tops and small roots. Irregular watering may cause splitting.
Fertilizer Needs: Moderate. Beets aren't very hungry plants, though they do like phosphorus and potassium.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5", regularly, 2 times a week. Keep the soil evenly moist, but don’t over-water. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Thinning, after sowing: 2" apart, after sowing, 1 time. If germination is good, you will have a little clump of seedlings every 2˝. These clumps thin themselves to some extent, with the largest and most vigorous ones eventually crowding out the others. It is extremely important that the plants are thinned properly, as insufficient thinning is one of the most common reasons that plants fail to grow good roots.
First thinning: Thin the plants soon after they all emerge, when they are about an inch tall. Do this at the same time you are weeding them, ideally in cool cloudy weather. The first thinning should give you a single plant every 2˝. Don’t thin them to the final spacing at this time, as some might not survive.
Side Dressing, after planting: Mulch, 2", after planting, 1 time. Mulch helps to keep down weeds and conserves moisture. Wait until the soil is warm before applying it, however.
Thinning, when 3" tall: 4" apart, when 3" tall, 1 time. Second thinning: Thin the plants to the desired final spacing when they are 3 - 4" tall and the roots have swollen to an inch in diameter. The thinnings from this round are big enough to eat in salads or stir-fries.
Weeding, up to early fruit set: up to early fruit set, 1 time a week. Beets won’t grow well if they have to compete with weeds, so make sure they are weeded properly. This is particularly important when they are young and don’t have enough foliage to cover the ground. It is best to hand weed Beets as the shoulders of the roots are easily damaged by weeding tools.
Watering, before harvest: Water, 1", before harvest, 1 time a week. Give them extra water when the roots are sizing up to boost their final size. You want to give your plants a total of 2" a week. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Support: No
Harvest
Ripening: You can start harvesting the roots as soon as they are large enough to bother with (1 1/2" to 2"). These are nice and tender at this stage, but not very sweet. The roots are sweeter, but still tender, when slightly larger (up to 4"). If they get much bigger than this they have a tendency to get rather woody.
When and How:
Leaves, 1-56 days after maturity. Cut and Come Again Option For Greens As long as the leaves are 4" to 5" tall you can cut the tops. Leave the smaller leaves until they reach full size. Beet leaves can be used as a cut and come again crop, so they can be enjoyed as long as the roots are in the ground.
Whole Plant, 1-56 days after maturity:
When: You can start harvesting the roots as soon as they are large enough to bother with (1½˝ to 2˝). These are nice and tender at this stage, but not very sweet. The roots are sweeter, but still tender, when slightly larger (up to 4˝). If they get much bigger than this they have a tendency to get rather woody. To some extent this depends on the variety, growing methods and time of year and, so it’s not always the case.
How: Usually you can simply pull up the roots by the tops (if these are tender they can be used for greens, so don’t waste them). To minimize moisture loss in the roots, twist off the greens. If you are going to store the roots be very careful when harvesting them, as the slightest injury can lead to premature decay.
When and How:
Leaves, 1-56 days after maturity. Cut and Come Again Option For Greens As long as the leaves are 4" to 5" tall you can cut the tops. Leave the smaller leaves until they reach full size. Beet leaves can be used as a cut and come again crop, so they can be enjoyed as long as the roots are in the ground.
Whole Plant, 1-56 days after maturity:
When: You can start harvesting the roots as soon as they are large enough to bother with (1½˝ to 2˝). These are nice and tender at this stage, but not very sweet. The roots are sweeter, but still tender, when slightly larger (up to 4˝). If they get much bigger than this they have a tendency to get rather woody. To some extent this depends on the variety, growing methods and time of year and, so it’s not always the case.
How: Usually you can simply pull up the roots by the tops (if these are tender they can be used for greens, so don’t waste them). To minimize moisture loss in the roots, twist off the greens. If you are going to store the roots be very careful when harvesting them, as the slightest injury can lead to premature decay.
Storage
In mild climates the roots are best left in the ground, where they will grow slowly all winter. In colder climates they can be stored in the ground, if covered with a thick mulch to keep the ground from freezing.
Storage Req: Ground
Storage Temp: 32-45°F
Storage Length: days
In very cold climates they are usually dug and stored in the root cellar (or something similar) in a box of damp sand or sawdust. If stored at 32 to 40˚ F and 90%+ humidity, they will last for 4 to 6 months.
Storage Req: Cool, Moist
Storage Temp: 32-40°F
Storage Length: 180 days
To prevent moisture loss from the root, cut off the leaves to within an inch or two of the root. Don’t cut too close to the crown as this may cause them to bleed. If you want to store them, leave the long stringy root tips in place and don’t wash them.
The roots can be stored in a plastic bag in the fridge, for several weeks.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 14-28 days
Storage Req: Ground
Storage Temp: 32-45°F
Storage Length: days
In very cold climates they are usually dug and stored in the root cellar (or something similar) in a box of damp sand or sawdust. If stored at 32 to 40˚ F and 90%+ humidity, they will last for 4 to 6 months.
Storage Req: Cool, Moist
Storage Temp: 32-40°F
Storage Length: 180 days
To prevent moisture loss from the root, cut off the leaves to within an inch or two of the root. Don’t cut too close to the crown as this may cause them to bleed. If you want to store them, leave the long stringy root tips in place and don’t wash them.
The roots can be stored in a plastic bag in the fridge, for several weeks.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 14-28 days
Beets are cross-pollinated by the wind, so must be isolated from other varieties (and from chard). This means having only one variety flowering at one time within a distance 1/4 mile for home use. For pure seed isolate by a minimum of 1/2 to 1 mile. Crosses with chard.
Beet is a biennial, which means the root has to survive the winter before it can produce seed. In mild climates you can simply leave them in the ground (cover with mulch if necessary). In colder climates you may have to lift the roots and store them in a root cellar as described above. Replant the best roots in spring and the seed will ripen by midsummer. A flowering beet plant may get to be 8 feet tall and can be quite top heavy, so is often staked to prevent it falling over.
You will get a lot of seed from one plant, let
alone 5 plants, which is the minimum number required to maintain some genetic variability.
Seed Viability in Years: 3 - 5 years
Germination Percentage: 60%
Beet is a biennial, which means the root has to survive the winter before it can produce seed. In mild climates you can simply leave them in the ground (cover with mulch if necessary). In colder climates you may have to lift the roots and store them in a root cellar as described above. Replant the best roots in spring and the seed will ripen by midsummer. A flowering beet plant may get to be 8 feet tall and can be quite top heavy, so is often staked to prevent it falling over.
You will get a lot of seed from one plant, let
alone 5 plants, which is the minimum number required to maintain some genetic variability.
Seed Viability in Years: 3 - 5 years
Germination Percentage: 60%
Culinary
Taste: Rich flavored bulbs and young tender green tops have lots of flavor and a good sturdy texture.
Culinary Use: Beets have a high sugar content and earthy flavor. Steaming or roasting them preserves their flavor; they should be cooked until they are tender. The beet tops are especially good and can be cut many times while the beet root matures. Beets can be used to prepare soups, salads, pickled, and for side dishes. Beets combined with baby greens, citrus, nuts or cheeses makes a refreshing salad. Using red beets in risotto creates a delicious colorful dish or you can add a beet to poached apple or pears for extra sweetness and dramatic color. Don't forget about the leaves, as they are the most nutritious part. They may not be as good as chard, but they are still useful as a potherb, or a colorful minor addition to salads.
Culinary Use: Beets have a high sugar content and earthy flavor. Steaming or roasting them preserves their flavor; they should be cooked until they are tender. The beet tops are especially good and can be cut many times while the beet root matures. Beets can be used to prepare soups, salads, pickled, and for side dishes. Beets combined with baby greens, citrus, nuts or cheeses makes a refreshing salad. Using red beets in risotto creates a delicious colorful dish or you can add a beet to poached apple or pears for extra sweetness and dramatic color. Don't forget about the leaves, as they are the most nutritious part. They may not be as good as chard, but they are still useful as a potherb, or a colorful minor addition to salads.
Medicinal
Although little used in modern herbalism, beet has a long history of folk use, especially in the treatment of tumors. The root of white-rooted forms contain betaine which promotes the regeneration of liver cells and the metabolism of fat cells. The root of red-rooted forms contains betanin - an anthocyanin similar to those found in red wine - which is partly responsible for red beet's immune-enhancing effect. The root is carminative, haemostatic, stomachic and a tonic for women. The root can be used as part of the diet, or the juice can be extracted and used as a health-promoting drink. At least one liter of the juice from red-rooted forms must be taken each day in order to stimulate the immune system. The juice is prescribed by herbalists as part of a cancer-treatment regime. A decoction prepared from the seed has been used as a remedy for tumors of the intestines. The seed, boiled in water, is said to cure genital tumors. The juice or other parts of the plant is said to help in the treatment of tumors, leukemia and other forms of cancer such as cancer of the breast, esophagus, glands, head, intestines, leg, lip, lung, prostate, rectum, spleen, stomach, and uterus. Some figure that betacyanin and anthocyanin are important in the exchange of substances of cancer cells, others note two main components of the amines, choline and its oxidation product betaine, whose absence produces tumors in mice. The juice has been applied to ulcers. A decoction is used as a purgative by those who suffer from hemorrhoids in South Africa. Leaves and roots used as an emmenagogue. Plant effective in the treatment of feline ascariasis. In the old days, beet juice was recommended as a remedy for anemia and yellow jaundice, and, put into the nostrils to purge the head, clear ringing ears, and alleviate toothache. Beet juice in vinegar was said to rid the scalp of dandruff as scurf, and was recommended to prevent falling hair.
Project Purity Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Allies: Try sprays or companion plantings of mints (Mentha spp.), thyme, or catnip (Nepeta cataria) to ward off flea beetles.
Companions: Plant in alternate rows with other crops, even those that grow tall. (although beets prefer full sun, they also tolerate partial shade.) Alternate beets in a row with onions or kohlrabi. Beets have attractive red veined leaves that also make a nice addition to ornamental plantings.
Enemies: Some companion gardeners believe that beets do poorly when planted near pole beans or field mustard.
Companions: Plant in alternate rows with other crops, even those that grow tall. (although beets prefer full sun, they also tolerate partial shade.) Alternate beets in a row with onions or kohlrabi. Beets have attractive red veined leaves that also make a nice addition to ornamental plantings.
Enemies: Some companion gardeners believe that beets do poorly when planted near pole beans or field mustard.
Problems
No serious insect or disease problems. Beets may suffer from fungal leaf spots, downy mildew, powdery mildew and root rots. Watch for leaf miners, flea beetles, leafhoppers, aphids and caterpillars.
Leaf Miners
Beneficial insects such as Leaf miner parasitic wasps prey on Leaf miners.
Leaf miner parasitic wasps: (Diglyphus isaea) are the main natural enemy of these ubiquitous garden pests. These tiny wasps prey on leaf miners by laying eggs in their larvae. When the eggs hatch, the wasp larvae feed on the leaf miner larvae. You can purchase Leaf miner parasite wasps as adults from online organic garden suppliers.
Flea beetles
Beneficial insects such as Braconid wasps, Tachinid flies, Lacewings larvae, Damsel bugs, and Big Eyed Bug all prey on Flea Beetles.
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
Damsel Bugs: Preys on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Flea beetles, Potato beetles, and Cabbage worms.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Preys on Aphids, small Caterpillars and Caterpillar eggs, Flea beetles, Fleahoppers, Lygus bugs, Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies.
To attract Big-Eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
Damsel Bugs: Preys on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Flea beetles, Potato beetles, and Cabbage worms.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Preys on Aphids, small Caterpillars and Caterpillar eggs, Flea beetles, Fleahoppers, Lygus bugs, Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies.
To attract Big-Eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Leafhoppers
Beneficial insects such as Assassin Bugs, Green Lacewings, Lady Bugs, and Minute Pirate Bugs all prey on Leafhoppers.
Assassin Bugs: Preys on Aphids, leafhoppers, asparagus beetle eggs and larvae, small flying insects, and up to medium-sized caterpillars.
To attract Assassin Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Most garden plants, field crops, ornamental trees and shrubs. Spined assassin bugs are often found on goldenrod and other wildflowers.
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
Ladybug: Preys on Aphids, Cabbage loopers, Leafhoppers, Whitefly, Spider mites, Fleas, Mealybug, and Colorado potato beetles.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Caraway, Dill, Dandelion, Fennel, Fern-leaf Yellow, Basket of Gold, Common Yarrow, Golden rod.
Minute Pirate Bugs: Preys on Spider mites, Cabbage looper, Insect eggs, Caterpillars, Aphids, and Thrips.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Plants that attract Minute Pirate Bugs are: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
To attract Assassin Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Most garden plants, field crops, ornamental trees and shrubs. Spined assassin bugs are often found on goldenrod and other wildflowers.
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
Ladybug: Preys on Aphids, Cabbage loopers, Leafhoppers, Whitefly, Spider mites, Fleas, Mealybug, and Colorado potato beetles.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Caraway, Dill, Dandelion, Fennel, Fern-leaf Yellow, Basket of Gold, Common Yarrow, Golden rod.
Minute Pirate Bugs: Preys on Spider mites, Cabbage looper, Insect eggs, Caterpillars, Aphids, and Thrips.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Plants that attract Minute Pirate Bugs are: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Aphids
Beneficial insects such as Ladybugs, Collops Beetle, Soldier Beetles, Long-legged Flies, Hover Flies, Predaceous Midges, Damsel Bugs, Big-eyed Bugs, Minute Pirate Bugs, Lacewings, Parasitic Wasps,
Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.
Ladybeetles, Ladybugs, or Ladybird Beetles: Ladybeetles are probably the most well-known of beetles that eat aphids. There are many species, and both the adults and larvae eat aphids. Convergent lady beetles and the seven-spotted ladybeetles are abundant species in the environment. Eggs are found in clutches, yellow and football shaped. Larvae have an alligator-like appearance, and are black with orange markings. Pupae are sedentary. Ladybeetles are commercially available but purchasing is not generally recommended since the adult stage tends to fly away once released. Introductions may be more effective in greenhouses and high tunnels. Diverse plantings can help recruit resident ladybeetles to an area.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina),
Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata),
Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota),
Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima),
Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis),
Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum – white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal
(Mentha pulegium), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’),
Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Marigold – lemon gem (Tagetes tenuifolia), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), and Zinnia – ‘liliput’ (Zinnia elegans).
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina),
Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata),
Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota),
Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima),
Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis),
Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum – white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal
(Mentha pulegium), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’),
Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Marigold – lemon gem (Tagetes tenuifolia), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), and Zinnia – ‘liliput’ (Zinnia elegans).
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
caterpillars
Beneficial insects such as Assassin Bugs, Big Eyed Bugs, Braconid Wasps, Damsel Bugs, Ground Beetles, Hoverflies, Lacewings, Minute Pirate Bugs, and Preying Mantis all prey on Caterpillars.
Assassin Bugs: Preys on Aphids, leafhoppers, asparagus beetle eggs and larvae, small flying insects, and up to medium-sized caterpillars.
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Braconid Wasps: prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Hoverflies: Prey on aphids, scale insects, caterpillars, and Thrips.
To attract Hoverflies to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Praying Mantis: Preys on a wide range including caterpillars, moths, beetles, and crickets.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: tall grasses and shrubs, cosmos, marigolds, and dills.
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Braconid Wasps: prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Hoverflies: Prey on aphids, scale insects, caterpillars, and Thrips.
To attract Hoverflies to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Praying Mantis: Preys on a wide range including caterpillars, moths, beetles, and crickets.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: tall grasses and shrubs, cosmos, marigolds, and dills.
Nutrition
Leaves: These are actually more nutritious than the roots, containing large amounts of vitamins A and C, as well as calcium, phosphorus, potassium and iron. They also contain oxalic acid, but this is no more of a problem than it is with spinach.
Roots: These are rich in carbohydrates and many beneficial phytochemicals, including folate, betacyanin and betaine.
Roots: These are rich in carbohydrates and many beneficial phytochemicals, including folate, betacyanin and betaine.
The Health Benefits of Beets
The roots and leaves of beets have plenty of medicinal uses which include the following:
Good for Heart Health: Beet fiber helps to reduce cholesterol and triglycerides by increasing the level of HDL cholesterol (“good” cholesterol). Having a high level of triglycerides increases the risk for heart related problems, so increased HDL is a good line of defense against that. The presence of the nutrient betaine lowers the levels of homocysteine in the body which can also be harmful to the blood vessels. Thus, consumption of beetroot helps to prevent cardiovascular diseases in multiple ways, so conditions like ahterosclerosis, heart attacks, and strokes are less likely to develop. The fiber in beets also works to strip excess LDL cholesterol from the walls and help to eliminate it from the body quickly.
Reduces Birth Defects: Beets are good for pregnant women since they are a source of B vitamin folate which helps in the development of infant’s spinal column. Deficiency of folate could lead to a variety of conditions called neural tube defects.
Prevent Certain Cancers: Studies have revealed that beets are good at preventing skin, lung, and colon cancer, since they contain the pigment betacyaninis, which counteracts cancerous cell growth. Nitrates used in meats as preservatives can stimulate the production of nitrosamine compounds in the body which can also result in cancer. Studies have now shown that beet juice inhibits the cell mutations caused by these compounds. Researchers in Hungary have also discovered that beet juice and its powdered form slows down tumor development. Adding a healthy weekly amount of beets to your diet can keep your body cancer-free for a very long time.
Good for Liver Health: Betaines contained in beet juice stimulate the functions of the liver
Prevents Respiratory Problems: Beetroot is a source of vitamin C that helps to prevent asthma symptoms. The natural beta carotene in beetroot also helps to prevent lungs cancer. Vitamin C is also a powerful antioxidant that boosts the immune system in a number of ways. Besides acting as an antioxidant itself and defending against the effects of free radicals in the body, vitamin C also stimulates the activity of white blood cells, which is the body’s main line of defense against foreign bodies, as well as viral, bacterial, fungal, and protozoan toxins that can result in a multitude of infections and illnesses. Vitamin C’s range goes from fighting the sniffles to reducing the chances of cancer, and beets has plenty of vitamin C!
Prevents Cataracts: The presence of beta-carotene, which is a form of vitamin A, helps to prevent age-related blindness called cataracts as well as a reduction in macular degeneration that commonly occurs as we get older. Vitamin A is considered a powerful antioxidant substance that is involved in many essential activities in the body.
Capillary Fragility: The flavonoids and vitamin-C in beets help to support the structure of capillaries.
Aphrodisiac: Beets have been considered an aphrodisiac or sexual booster for millennia. Part of this stems from the fact that beets contain significant levels of the mineral boron, which has been shown to boost the production of sexual hormones. This can lead to a boost in your libido, increased fertility, sperm mobility improvement, and a reduction in frigidity in the bedroom. Your sexual life can get a legitimate and time-tested push in the right direction by adding beets to the diet of you and your partner.
Boosts Energy Levels: Beets contain a significant amount of carbohydrates that provides fuel for energy and prolonged sports activities. These are the natural building blocks of energy metabolism, and beets provide them without any of the negative side effects of many other carbohydrate-heavy foods. When the body has a sufficient amount of carbohydrates, it is able to fuel all of the necessary bodily functions as well, including the important metabolic reactions that keep your organ systems functioning efficiently.
In a related function, researchers have noticed that oxygen uptake is greatly increased by people who drink beet juice due to the high nitrate content. The results show that oxygen uptake increases by up to 16%, which is an unheard of boost, and is actually more than a normal person can improve by, even when training extensively. This increases stamina for exercising and participating in sports, making beet juice an interesting sports drink that most people would never consider.
Macular Degeneration: The beta-carotene present in beetroot aids in reducing or slowing macular degeneration in the eyes. Macular degeneration is often associated with an increase in free radicals, which drastically affect the premature aging process of many people. The beta-carotene is a powerful form of vitamin A, which has antioxidant capabilities and defends the eyes against the damaging effects of these free radicals.
Strokes: A deficiency of potassium in the body increases the risk of stroke. Therefore, the potassium-rich beetroot is recommended to boost heart health for that reason as well. Potassium is called a vasodilator, meaning that it relaxes the blood vessels and reduces blood pressure throughout the body. When blood pressure is reduced and the vessels and arteries are no longer contracted, blood clots are far less likely to form, or get stuck, and the plaque that may have built up along the walls of your blood vessels will not accumulate more detritus to form additional clots. Clots are what eventually lead to heart attacks and strokes, so beets and their potassium content are quite a health booster!
What is more impressive is that studies have shown the effect to be ongoing. Blood pressure will continue to drop over the course of 24 hours, as though beets are naturally delaying their effects so the body can adjust, rather than plummeting the blood pressure at a dangerous speed.
More Benefits?: In ancient times, beets were used to cure fever and constipation. In the Middle Ages, beetroot was also used as a remedy for digestive disorders. Finally, beet leaves are good for speeding up the healing process of wounds.
A Few Words of Warning: Beets contain oxalates, which when consumed in excess can cause bodily fluids to crystallize. People with kidney or gallbladder problems should avoid beetroots because they could exacerbate kidney and bladder stones.
Good for Heart Health: Beet fiber helps to reduce cholesterol and triglycerides by increasing the level of HDL cholesterol (“good” cholesterol). Having a high level of triglycerides increases the risk for heart related problems, so increased HDL is a good line of defense against that. The presence of the nutrient betaine lowers the levels of homocysteine in the body which can also be harmful to the blood vessels. Thus, consumption of beetroot helps to prevent cardiovascular diseases in multiple ways, so conditions like ahterosclerosis, heart attacks, and strokes are less likely to develop. The fiber in beets also works to strip excess LDL cholesterol from the walls and help to eliminate it from the body quickly.
Reduces Birth Defects: Beets are good for pregnant women since they are a source of B vitamin folate which helps in the development of infant’s spinal column. Deficiency of folate could lead to a variety of conditions called neural tube defects.
Prevent Certain Cancers: Studies have revealed that beets are good at preventing skin, lung, and colon cancer, since they contain the pigment betacyaninis, which counteracts cancerous cell growth. Nitrates used in meats as preservatives can stimulate the production of nitrosamine compounds in the body which can also result in cancer. Studies have now shown that beet juice inhibits the cell mutations caused by these compounds. Researchers in Hungary have also discovered that beet juice and its powdered form slows down tumor development. Adding a healthy weekly amount of beets to your diet can keep your body cancer-free for a very long time.
Good for Liver Health: Betaines contained in beet juice stimulate the functions of the liver
Prevents Respiratory Problems: Beetroot is a source of vitamin C that helps to prevent asthma symptoms. The natural beta carotene in beetroot also helps to prevent lungs cancer. Vitamin C is also a powerful antioxidant that boosts the immune system in a number of ways. Besides acting as an antioxidant itself and defending against the effects of free radicals in the body, vitamin C also stimulates the activity of white blood cells, which is the body’s main line of defense against foreign bodies, as well as viral, bacterial, fungal, and protozoan toxins that can result in a multitude of infections and illnesses. Vitamin C’s range goes from fighting the sniffles to reducing the chances of cancer, and beets has plenty of vitamin C!
Prevents Cataracts: The presence of beta-carotene, which is a form of vitamin A, helps to prevent age-related blindness called cataracts as well as a reduction in macular degeneration that commonly occurs as we get older. Vitamin A is considered a powerful antioxidant substance that is involved in many essential activities in the body.
Capillary Fragility: The flavonoids and vitamin-C in beets help to support the structure of capillaries.
Aphrodisiac: Beets have been considered an aphrodisiac or sexual booster for millennia. Part of this stems from the fact that beets contain significant levels of the mineral boron, which has been shown to boost the production of sexual hormones. This can lead to a boost in your libido, increased fertility, sperm mobility improvement, and a reduction in frigidity in the bedroom. Your sexual life can get a legitimate and time-tested push in the right direction by adding beets to the diet of you and your partner.
Boosts Energy Levels: Beets contain a significant amount of carbohydrates that provides fuel for energy and prolonged sports activities. These are the natural building blocks of energy metabolism, and beets provide them without any of the negative side effects of many other carbohydrate-heavy foods. When the body has a sufficient amount of carbohydrates, it is able to fuel all of the necessary bodily functions as well, including the important metabolic reactions that keep your organ systems functioning efficiently.
In a related function, researchers have noticed that oxygen uptake is greatly increased by people who drink beet juice due to the high nitrate content. The results show that oxygen uptake increases by up to 16%, which is an unheard of boost, and is actually more than a normal person can improve by, even when training extensively. This increases stamina for exercising and participating in sports, making beet juice an interesting sports drink that most people would never consider.
Macular Degeneration: The beta-carotene present in beetroot aids in reducing or slowing macular degeneration in the eyes. Macular degeneration is often associated with an increase in free radicals, which drastically affect the premature aging process of many people. The beta-carotene is a powerful form of vitamin A, which has antioxidant capabilities and defends the eyes against the damaging effects of these free radicals.
Strokes: A deficiency of potassium in the body increases the risk of stroke. Therefore, the potassium-rich beetroot is recommended to boost heart health for that reason as well. Potassium is called a vasodilator, meaning that it relaxes the blood vessels and reduces blood pressure throughout the body. When blood pressure is reduced and the vessels and arteries are no longer contracted, blood clots are far less likely to form, or get stuck, and the plaque that may have built up along the walls of your blood vessels will not accumulate more detritus to form additional clots. Clots are what eventually lead to heart attacks and strokes, so beets and their potassium content are quite a health booster!
What is more impressive is that studies have shown the effect to be ongoing. Blood pressure will continue to drop over the course of 24 hours, as though beets are naturally delaying their effects so the body can adjust, rather than plummeting the blood pressure at a dangerous speed.
More Benefits?: In ancient times, beets were used to cure fever and constipation. In the Middle Ages, beetroot was also used as a remedy for digestive disorders. Finally, beet leaves are good for speeding up the healing process of wounds.
A Few Words of Warning: Beets contain oxalates, which when consumed in excess can cause bodily fluids to crystallize. People with kidney or gallbladder problems should avoid beetroots because they could exacerbate kidney and bladder stones.
Suggested varieties
Amaranth: Love Lies Bleeding (Heirloom) (Amaranthus caudatus)
$1.00 - $5.60
As a decorative flower, Love-Lies-Bleeding grew in many Victorian English gardens; in the language of flowers, it represents hopeless love. In addition to producing lovely flowers, Love-Lies-Bleeding is a form of the grain-producing plant known as amaranth. A staple grain for the Aztecs and Incas, amaranth was referred to as the "golden grain of the gods" and used in religious rituals. The plant nearly died out when the Spanish Conquistadors declared their religious practices barbaric, and made growing amaranth a capital offense. Today, both the leaves and the seeds of amaranth are an important food source in many parts of the world. This unique grain provides an impressive amount of vitamins and minerals, as well as being very rich in protein.
Amaranth: Red Garnet (Heirloom) (Amaranthus tricolor)
$1.00 - $5.60
Amaranth had a sacred status in the ancient civilizations of the Aztecs and Incas, since the grain was used in various religious rituals. It remains a staple food in modern Mexico and some parts of Asia, being prepared in numerous dishes from sweet to savory. One traditional Mexican treat known as "alegria" is made with amaranth grain and honey or molasses. A super grain, amaranth can be used for gluten free flour; it also makes a complete protein when mixed with another grain. In addition, amaranth greens have a higher iron content than any other green vegetable except parsley, as well as containing many valuable vitamins and minerals.
Bergamot: Wild (Monarda fistulosa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Butterfly attracting premier! Bursting with lavender heads of flowers, this popular perennial wildflower puts on a beautiful show! Medium to tall in height, this plant looks great planted en masse, or with other meadow dwellers. Its sweetly aromatic foliage makes it even more desirable. A classic!
Caraway (Carum carvi)
$1.00 - $5.60
Possibly one of the oldest herbs, evidence of caraway has been found in the Neolithic ruins of Europe as well as in ancient Egypt. Medieval medicine recommended the use of caraway for the improvement of digestion as well as for infant colic; William Shakespeare himself made reference to the culinary use of this herb in his play Henry IV, when Falstaff is invited to "take a pippin and a dish of caraways." The flavor of caraway became extremely popular in Tudor England, especially cooked with fruit or for cakes and bread. Caraway has a well known role in the cuisine of Germany, Scandanavia, northern Africa, and various eastern European countries.
Carrots: Chantenay Red Cored (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
Introduced from France in the late 1800s. Blocky, broad-shouldered variety with blunt tip, about 5-1/2" long and 2-1/2" at the shoulder. Deep orange interior. Adaptable to clay and a wide range of soils. A versatile, good winter keeper that is quite tasty, raw or cooked. Stores well in the ground. Becomes sweeter in storage.
Carrots: Cosmic Purple (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The first mention of red, white, and purple carrots can be found in the records of both Afghanistan and Egypt. Yellow carrots, on the other hand, date back to Turkish records from the 900's. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California.
Carrots: Danvers (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The origin of carrots is somewhat obscure, but early records from many civilizations refer to this colorful root. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California. Danvers carrots in particular come from Danvers, Massachusetts, where the Eastern States Farmers Exchange introduced them in 1947.
Carrots: Rainbow Blend (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
Festive Color and Flavor Mix of Purple, Yellow, Red and White Carrots is sure to delight—each with their own unique qualities. Purple has smooth skin, coreless orange flesh and is sweet and tasty. Solar Yellow holds its sunny hue inside and out, is crunchy, sweet and juicy. Lunar White is mild and delicious, and Atomic Red has high lycopene levels as well as a crispy texture that is great cooked.
Carrots: Scarlet Nantes (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The origin of carrots is somewhat obscure, but early records from many civilizations refer to this colorful root. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. The 19th century seed specialist Louis de Vilmorin introduced the French varieties of carrot such as Nantes and Chantenay, which both derive their names from their places of origin. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California.
Carrots: Tendersweet (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
$1.00 - $5.60
The origin of carrots is somewhat obscure, but early records from many civilizations refer to this colorful root. Carrots fulfilled medicinal purposes for thousands of years, being used for maladies as diverse as indigestion and cancer. The Dutch were the among the first to cultivate the orange carrot; legend has it that their intent was to honor William of Orange. After World War I, carrots became extremely popular in the United States, and are now produced commercially mostly in Texas, Michigan, and California.
Catnip (Nepeta cataria)
$1.00 - $5.60
History records that catnip was first grown in the Roman town of Nepeti, which explains its genus name, Nepeta.In early Britain before the arrival of Chinese tea, dried catnip made an excellent and popular tea; this tea also had legendary medical benefits for complaints such as fever, congestion, anxiety, or poor digestion. Its effect on the personality was supposed to have ranged from sedation, to courage, to fierce aggressiveness. One popular legend states that reluctant hangmen often chewed catnip leaves to give them courage for their task. A member of the mint family, catnip is extremely attractive to cats; in modern times, it is commercially produced primarily for pets.
Chives: Garlic (Allium tuberosum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Originating in western China, garlic chives have been used in Asian cuisine for thousands of years. Unlike the traditional tubular leaves of regular chives, garlic chives have flat, narrow blades; some gardeners blanch their garlic chives, causing them to develop a pale yellow color. Traditional pad Thai, Chinese jiaozi, and various Korean dishes such as buchukimchi often contain garlic chives; they also make a popular addition to stir fries, soups, and dishes with eggs or fish. These delicately garlic scented leaves are often used more as a vegetable than an herb, and may also substitute for standard chives. Garlic chives provide abundant vitamins and minerals, including vitamin C, calcium, and iron.
Chives: Onion (Allium schoenoprasum var. album)
$1.00 - $5.60
Chives, the oldest species of edible onion known, has been used in China since about 3000 B.C. The botanical name actually comes from the Greek meaning, "reed-like leek". Chives are now grown all over the world; historical legend states that Marco Polo discovered this herb in China and brought it back to his native land. Medieval gardeners often planted chives around the borders for both decoration and to ward off harmful insects. Traditional medicinal uses, though not as common, included treatment for high cholesterol and poor digestion. Along with parsley, tarragon, and chervil, chives is included in the famous blend of herbs known as "Fines herbes." The onion-like flavor of chives makes them a traditional addition to dishes with cheese, eggs, fish, or potatoes; the flowers make a delicate herbal vinegar, in addition to being a colorful addition to salads.
Clover: Crimson (Trifolium incarnatum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Most commonly known as crimson clover, this wildflower is also called Italian or French clover in reference to it's nativity to Europe. This annual species blooms in a strawberry red, and it's delightful fragrance attracts bees by the score! A non-invasive, annual species of clover, it is often used as a cover-crop. In southern climates, plant it during your off-season, and watch the amazing results of this rich, nitrogen producing plant! The earthworms love it! Also a protein-rich forage crop for cattle and livestock, this gem of a wildflower is indispensable!
Coriander: Leisure (Coriandrum sativum)
$1.00 - $5.60
The coriander plant, whose leaves are known as cilantro, is native to the Mediterranean and Middle Easter countries; it is believed to be one of the earliest spices used by man. Early physicians such as Hippocrates used coriander primarily as an aromatic stimulant or to disguise the taste of unsavory medicines. Nearly every part of this herb has a culinary use; in Thai cuisine, the roots flavor spicy sauces, while the cilantro leaves season and garnish Chinese, Vietnamese, and Mexican dishes. The coriander seed is used in candy, specialty breads, sauces, desserts, and even perfumes. In Tudor England, coriander seeds coated with sugar were known as "comfits" and became a popular treat.
Cosmos: Bright Lights (Cosmos sulphureus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Because of their Mexican heritage, these bright annuals meet high heat and drought conditions with native beauty and vigor. Spanish conquistadors searching for gold discovered these flowers on their journeys through Mexico. Mission gardens often included these flowers, which priests gave the name “cosmos,” the Greek word for a harmonious whole, because of their neatly spaced petals. Cosmos flowers made their way to England with Spanish ambassadors in the late 18th century, and to the United States in the following century.
Cosmos: Candy Stripe (Cosmos bipinnatus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Because of their Mexican heritage, these bright annuals meet high heat and drought conditions with native beauty and vigor. Spanish conquistadors searching for gold discovered these flowers on their journeys through Mexico. Mission gardens often included these flowers, which priests gave the name “cosmos,” the Greek word for a harmonious whole, because of their neatly spaced petals. Cosmos flowers made their way to England with Spanish ambassadors in the late 18th century, and to the United States in the following century.
Cosmos: Radiance (Cosmos bipinnatus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Because of their Mexican heritage, these bright annuals meet high heat and drought conditions with native beauty and vigor. Spanish conquistadors searching for gold discovered these flowers on their journeys through Mexico. Mission gardens often included these flowers, which priests gave the name “cosmos,” the Greek word for a harmonious whole, because of their neatly spaced petals. Cosmos flowers made their way to England with Spanish ambassadors in the late 18th century, and to the United States in the following century.
Dill: Dukat (Anethum graveolens)
$1.00 - $5.60
Historical records suggest that dill has been used for medicinal purposes for over 5,000 years; its primary use was to calm the digestion and treat stomach ailments, hence its name from an old Saxon word meaning "to lull." Ancient Greek tradition suggested covering the head with dill leaves to induce sleep, while many herbal remedies from ages past recommend dill to soothe colicky babies. Traditionally, dill was thought to bring good fortune, protection, and wealth. Though the origin of dill's famous association with the pickle is not known, an 1640 recipe from the cook of England's King Charles I requires dill in its pickled cucumbers. Today, German, Greek, and Scandinavian cuisine most often include dill.
Cabbage: Early Jersey Wakefield (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
$1.00 - $5.60
The first Early Jersey Wakefield cabbages were raised in 1840 by a man named Francis Brill of Jersey City, New Jersey. Thirty years later, seed companies all over the region offered this seed for sale; growers appreciated its early harvest and small, tender heads.
English Marigold (Calendula officinalis)
$1.00 - $5.60
This old-fashioned flower has a long history as both an ornamental garden plant and as an herb. When dried, the petals of Calendula flowers provide a culinary substitute for saffron; in times past, they were used to give a rich color to cheese or butter. Medicinal uses included treatments for measles and smallpox, as well as for dressing wounds on the battlefield. As well as being the traditional flower for October birthdays, calendula symbolizes sorrow and sympathy.
Fennel: Florence (Foeniculum vulgare var. azoricum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Fennel has a rich history in ancient Greece, where it was called "marathon." The Battle of Marathon in 490 BC and the Italian town of the same name both received their names from this plant, which the Grecians regarded as a symbol of victory. Its medicinal properties, which are many, include an ability to suppress the appetite. In 13th century England, people ate fennel seeds during fast days or long sermons to partially satisfy their hunger; this led to the nickname "meeting seeds." A tea made of fennel became a well known treatment for infant colic or digestive disturbances. The seed of the fennel plant is most commonly found in Middle Eastern cuisine, while the bulb-like portion of the plant is popular in Italian and German cuisine. While culinary use is perfectly safe, large doses of fennel should be avoided by expectant mothers.
Kohlrabi: Purple Vienna (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. gongylodes)
$1.00 - $5.60
Named for a German word meaning "cabbage turnip," kohlrabi was developed first around the 16th century in northern Europe. By the end of that century, it had spread throughout the rest of the continent as well as to the Mediterranean region. The first recorded mention of kohlrabi in the States is found in the early 16th century. More recently, the countries of China, Israel, and Africa have discovered this vegetable; it has become quite a staple of northern Indian cuisine. Purple Vienna heirloom kohlrabi in particular dates back to 1863.
Balm: Lemon (Melissa officinalis)
$1.00 - $5.60
Lemon balm was most likely introduced to Spain by the Moors in the 7th century; by the Middle Ages, it was common throughout Europe. Its Latin name, Melissa, means “bee” in Greek and refers to the plant's tendency to attract bees; first century Roman naturalist Pliny the Elder recommended that lemon balm be cultivated near bee hives to prevent the bees from straying. A member of the mint family, lemon balm dates back over 2,000 years for use as a medicinal herb primarily to treat stress and anxiety, insomnia, and indigestion. Eleventh century Persian physician and philosopher Avicenna wrote of the benefits of lemon balm in treating low spirits or melancholy. According to an old Arabian proverb, “Balm makes the heart merry and joyful.” According to historical record, both King Charles V of France and Emperor Charles V drank lemon balm beverages to improve their health; lemon balm was also one of the plants grown in Thomas Jefferson’s famous experimental garden. Today, herbal treatments containing lemon balm often include other calming herbs such as valerian, chamomile, and hops to encourage relaxation.
Marigolds: Naughty Marietta (Tagetes patula)
$1.00 - $5.60
For non-stop bloom until frost, there's nothing better than French marigolds. The single flowers are golden yellow with mahogany streaks, and are very attractive to bees and butterflies. Ideal for planting along borders, or among vegetables to deter pests. Also makes a perfect container plant for pots or window boxes. The deeply divided foliage forms a bushy mound up to 12 inches high.
Marigolds: Sparky Mix French (Tagetes patula)
$1.00 - $5.60
This easy-to-grow French marigold will bloom all season long. Compact mounds up to 12 inches tall will produce vivid bi-color orange and yellow flowers with an unusual form. This unique flower has wider, wavy petals that make these blossoms spectacular when planted en masse. A beautiful choice for containers as well as gardens.
Marigold: White (Tagetes Erecta 'Kilimanjaro')
$1.00 - $5.60
Commonly called African marigold, Aztec marigold, American marigold or big marigold, is native to Mexico and Central America. Big marigold may be the best descriptive name because plants are noted for their large flowerheads. They typically grow from 1-4’ tall and feature huge, mostly double-globular flowers (2-4” diameter) in various shades of yellow, orange, and whitish. This variety is unaffected by high summer heat and generally blooms throughout the summer.
Mint: Pennyroyal (Mentha Pulegium)
$1.00 - $5.60
Pennyroyal, a member of the mint family, is a perennial herb that was once widely used but is not as common today. It has applications as an herbal remedy, culinary uses and as a decorative touch. Growing pennyroyal in the herb or perennial garden will add color with its lavender blooms.
Nasturtiums: Empress of India (Tropaeolum minus)
$1.00 - $5.60
These brilliant crimson flowers are set off by the deep blue-green leaves. This heirloom variety has a dwarf, bushy habit, and will self-sow. Edible blooms and leaves make a lovely garnish and bright addition to salads.
Nasturtiums: Jewel Mix (Tropaeolum minus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Cheery three-inch blooms in a lovely mix of peach, pink, yellow, orange and red bloom all summer on this dwarf nasturtium. Compact growth and bright blooms make this an ideal choice for garden beds or containers. Thrives in poor soil, and does well in cool weather. The flowers and leaves are edible, and will attract hummingbirds and butterflies as well as beneficial insects.
Onions: Evergreen White Bunching (Heirlooms) (Allium fistulosum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Most likely coming from Asia, this unusual onion has a different name in nearly every country that cultivates it; spring onions, Japanese onions, Welsh onions, scallions, green onions to name only a few. The countries of eastern Asia remain on the top of the list for bunching onion production.
Onions: Ruby Red (Heirloom) (Allium cepa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Red onions originated in central Asia, and are still a favorite choice for the cuisine of east India in particular because of their bright color and pungency. Those who love red onions know that three cities on particular are known for producing them: Tropea, Italy; Wethersfield, Connecticut; and Turda, Romania.
Onions: Sweet Spanish White (Heirloom) (Allium cepa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Spain, the leading onion producer of western Europe, consumes more onions than any other European country; their cuisine cannot be Spanish without onions. The most well known sweet onions of America such as the Vidalia and Grano types have their roots in the sweet onions of Spain, such as this Sweet Spanish variety.
Onion: Sweet Spanish Yellow (Heirloom) (Allium cepa)
$1.00 - $5.60
Spain, the leading onion producer of western Europe, consumes more onions than any other European country; their cuisine cannot be Spanish without onions. The most well known sweet onions of America such as the Vidalia and Grano types have their roots in the sweet onions of Spain, such as this Sweet Spanish variety.
Parsley: Italian Giant (Heirloom) (Petroselinum crispum var. neapolitanum)
$1.00 - $5.60
Parsley has a long and colorful history, being well known in many cultures. Myths and legends abound concerning this herb, making it the symbol of such widely varying things as death, victory, and life. One colonial superstition connecting parsley with death held such power that many farmers refused to grow this herb at all. Curly leaved parsley is the most well known and commonly available herb; it contains vitamins A and C as well as other valuable antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals.
Penstemon: Rocky Mountain (Penstemon strictus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Hardy, drought tolerant, and stunningly beautiful, what more could you want? Rich indigo blooms tower high on this Beardtongue, and are loved by hummingbirds and bees. Rocky Mountain Penstemon is one of the easiest Beardtongues to grow, and has a long blooming period of about a month in the Spring. A real show stopper!
Poached Egg Plant (Limnanthes douglasii)
$1.00 - $5.60
This native species was first discovered by David Douglas, a Scottish botanist commissioned to collect native American plants suitable for the gardens of Great Britain. The species name "douglasii" honors his discovery, while the genus name "Limnanthes" means "marsh flower" because of this plant's preference for moist soil. This fragrant butterfly magnet has been awarded the Royal Horticultural Society's prestigious Award of Garden Merit.
Radish: Early Scarlet Globe (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Early Scarlet Globe is an early variety of radish and an favorite of many home gardeners because it matures in just 23 days! Though their exact origin is unknown, certainly have been growing in America since the late 19th century. After reviewing an assortment of the early radishes then available, the June 1913 issue of "Garden Magazine" said of Scarlet Globe, "it remains in good table condition longer than any of the early sorts mentioned above."
Radish: German Giant (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
Radishes, in their early forms, come from the ancient civilizations of China, Greece, and Egypt; soon, surrounding nations also cultivated this vegetable. While the Oriental nations cultivated the large, elongated radishes, most of the round varieties such as German Giant were developed by the Dutch and the French. German Giant, as the name suggests, is an Amish heirloom that originated in Germany.
Radish: Watermelon (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
The Watermelon radish is a type of Japanese winter radish also known as a "daikon," which simply means "large root" in Japanese. Daikon radishes account for the largest percentage of any cultivated vegetable in Japan, and can be found in some form in nearly every meal of that country. Watermelon radishes, which orginated in north China near Beijing, are often served sweetened there as a dessert or fruit.
Radish: White Spear Sprouting (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
$1.00 - $5.60
White Spear is a type of Japanese winter radish also known as a "daikon," which simply means "large root" in Japanese. Daikon radishes account for the largest percentage of any cultivated vegetable in Japan, and can be found in some form in nearly every meal of that country.
Thyme: Common (Thymus vulgaris)
$1.00 - $5.60
Native to southern Europe and the Mediterranean, thyme has a well established reputation for providing healing and protection; it also symbolizes courage, bravery, and strength. For centuries, soldiers would wear or carry sprigs of thyme with them to battle with the belief that the herb would protect them from danger. For culinary use, it is most often paired with lamb, poultry, or lemon; thyme makes one of the finest flavors of honey, and the plant attracts many bees. Medieval herbalists treated poisonous stings or bites with this herb, or burned it to purify the air. During the time of the Black Death, thyme became a major ingredient in many treatments for the disease. Whether or not it actually performed a cure, recent research confirms that thyme contains a very powerful antiseptic that may have medical benefits; records show several instances of thyme syrup completely curing whooping cough within a week. Though culinary use is fine, pregnant women should not take medicinal doses of thyme.
Thyme: Creeping (Thymus serpyllum)
$1.00 - $5.60
This plant is widely known as an herb. Thyme is the source of the oil Serpolet, which is used in herbal medicine. The plant is also often used as a food seasoning and the dried leaves may be used to make tea! This low growing plant with creeping, woody foliage bears small, lavender colored flower during the months of June and July. The hardy plant tolerates some pedestrian traffic and produces odors ranging from heavily herbal to lightly lemon, depending on the plant!
Yarrow: Red (Achillea millefolium rubra)
$1.00 - $5.60
Native to Southern Europe, yarrow has been a traditional part of herb gardens for hundreds of years because of its fragrant foliage and cheerful, long lasting flowers. Yarrow can often be found in fields, along roads, or on rocky hillsides. Linnaeus named it for Greek general Achilles, who according to legend received yarrow as a gift from the gods; the general’s soldiers used yarrow to stanch the flow of their blood in the battlefields of the Trojan War. In the early days of the American prairies, Native American tribes such as the Pawnee, Cherokee, and Chippewa used common yarrow to relieve pain and headaches, reduce fever, and induce sleep. When taken internally as a tea, yarrow purifies the system and has anti-inflammatory benefits. Cosmetic preparations sometimes include yarrow because of its cleansing, refreshing effect. Medicinal use of yarrow is not recommended for expectant mothers.
Yarrow: White (Achillea millefolium)
$1.00 - $5.60
Native to Southern Europe, yarrow has been a traditional part of herb gardens for hundreds of years because of its fragrant foliage and cheerful, long lasting flowers. Yarrow can often be found in fields, along roads, or on rocky hillsides. Linnaeus named it for Greek general Achilles, who according to legend received yarrow as a gift from the gods; the general’s soldiers used yarrow to stanch the flow of their blood in the battlefields of the Trojan War. In the early days of the American prairies, Native American tribes such as the Pawnee, Cherokee, and Chippewa used common yarrow to relieve pain and headaches, reduce fever, and induce sleep. When taken internally as a tea, yarrow purifies the system and has anti-inflammatory benefits. Cosmetic preparations sometimes include yarrow because of its cleansing, refreshing effect. Medicinal use of yarrow is not recommended for expectant mothers.