Okra: Red Burgundy (Heirloom) (Abelmoschus esculentus)
-
General Information
-
Soil Preparation & Start Indoors
-
Transplant Outdoors & Start Outdoors
-
Crop Care
-
Harvesting & Storage
-
Seed Saving
-
Culinary & Medicinal
-
Companion Planting
-
Nutrition & Health Benefits
-
Other Uses
Ease of Growing: Moderate
Grown as: Annual
Days to Maturity: 55 days
Growing Habit: Bush. Hardiness: Tender. Okra is heat loving and can't stand any cold whatsoever (minimum air temperature 75 degrees F).
Crops: Spring Transplant, Summer
Growing Season: Short, Long
Growing Conditions: Warm, Hot. Okra is heat loving. Sow seeds outside in spring after all danger of frost has passed, when the soil temperature has reached 70 degrees F. It's a good succession plant after early, spring-maturing crops. Expect good yields on this 4 foot tall, bushy plant. If the growing season is short, you might use cloches or black plastic to warm the soil.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 65°F - 95°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 60°F. The soil should be warm before you plant (60˚F minimum) or it may rot before it germinates. The warmer the soil the faster it will germinate.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Warm, Hot)
Water: High
Feeder: Heavy
Suitability: High heat, Needs lots of space
Small Gardens?: Yes
Containers?: No
Attracts beneficial insects?: Yes. Bees and butterflies.
Forage: Rabbits. Leaves only.
Maintenance: Medium
Plant Height: 48-60"
Spacing: 8"-12".
Sow Depth: 0.5" to 1.0".
Produces: 5-7" long deep red pods that turn green when cooked
Zones: 2-11
Garden Uses: Beds, border fronts, pots, containers.
Soil Preparation
Soil pH: 6.0-8.0, Ideal 6.8-7.2. Okra is a vigorous and fairly greedy plant, so the soil should be rich in all nutrients. It should also be well-drained and have a fairly neutral pH (Okra doesn't like acidic soil).
Soil Preparation:
Standard Mix, 1 handful, before sowing: A handful of standard mix in the planting hole will supply additional essential nutrients, including:
This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
- 4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
- 2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
- 2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
- 1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
- 1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Start Indoors
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 105°F, optimal 70°F to 95°F, optimal 86°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 0 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 2-4 weeks before last frost date. Soaking the seed overnight prior to planting may speed germination. Sow the seeds in cell packs or soil blocks as Okra doesn't like root disturbance. Start seed 2 to 3 weeks before the last frost date and plant out about a month later.
Transplant Outdoors
Rows: Space the plants 12"-18" apart, in rows 24"-36" apart depending on the variety.
Beds: Space the plants 18" apart (2 rows of plants down the bed works well).
Warm, Hot: Okra is heat loving. Sow seeds outside in spring after all danger of frost has passed, when the soil temperature has reached 70 degrees F. It's a good succession plant after early, spring-maturing crops. Expect good yields on this 4 foot tall, bushy plant. If the growing season is short, you might use cloches or black plastic to warm the soil.
When outdoor temp: 65°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. The soil should be warm before you plant (60˚F minimum) or it may rot before it germinates. The warmer the soil the faster it will germinate.
Spacing: 8"-12", 1 plants per sq ft. Sow the seeds directly in the soil once it has warmed up, about 4 to 6" apart, and then thin the seedlings as needed to allow each plant enough room. Plants should have a final spacing of 12".
Support: No
Start Outdoors
When outdoor temp: 65°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. The soil should be warm before you plant (60˚F minimum) or it may rot before it germinates. The warmer the soil the faster it will germinate.
Seed Depth: 0.5"-1.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cool soil and 1" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 8"-12". 1 plants per sq ft. Sow the seeds directly in the soil once it has warmed up, about 4 to 6" apart, and then thin the seedlings as needed to allow each plant enough room. Plants should have a final spacing of 12".
Summer Crop: 3-5 weeks after last frost date. Okra can be direct sown if your growing season is long enough. Sow the seeds a month after the last frost, when the soil has warmed up to at least 60˚ F and the air temperature is 75˚ F. Plant 1/2" deep in cool soil and 1" deep in warm soil. Sow the seeds 6" apart and later thin to the desired spacing.
Support: No
Water Needs: High. Okra must have a steady supply of water at all times. It shouldn't be too wet, however, as the plants are prone to fungus diseases when growing in cool moist conditions. Watering, regularly. Water, 0.5 inch(es), regularly, 2 times a week Okra is somewhat drought tolerant, but will produce more if kept well-watered. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Okra is a hungry plant and needs plenty of nutrients for best growth (it especially loves nitrogen). If your soil isn't very fertile give them a liquid feed every 2 to 3 weeks.
Side Dressing, soil is at growing temp: Mulch, 2 inch(es), soil is at growing temp. Apply mulch to keep the soil moist and keep down weeds
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Compost tea, 5 gallon(s) per 100 sq. ft., after transplanting, every 3 weeks. If the soil isn't very fertile give the plants a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed) every 2-3 weeks.
Support: No
Harvesting
Storage
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Okra pods are at their best when only 2-3" long, but these don't keep for more than 2-3 days (they are best eaten the same day). Larger pods can be stored in the fridge for up to a week in a plastic bag (they will eventually be damaged by temperatures 45 degrees F).
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 2-7 days
Okra pods can be dried to preserve them. Their flavor is quite different from the fresh pods, but it is still good.
Storage Req: Dry
Storage Temp: 60-70°F
Storage Length: days
Canned and pickled okra is an excellent option for long-term storage.
Storage Req: Canning
Storage Temp: 55-65°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
For this reason, you should only grow one variety at a time, or you must isolate the plants (in a cage, by bagging, or by distance). To ensure genetic variability you should save the seed from at least 5 plants. Of course you should also select the best plants to produce seed.
The fruit will take about 4 or 5 weeks to fully ripen (and the plants may well stop producing new fruits). The dry pods are even more irritating than the green pods, so wear gloves and long sleeves when harvesting.
Separate the seeds from the dry pods and dry thoroughly before storage.
Seed Viability in Years: 4 - 5 Years
Germination Percentage: 50%
Culinary
Culinary Use: Okra can be sauteed, fried, roasted, steamed, stir-fried and used in stews as well as canned or pickled. It contains a gelatinous substance that coats the Okra when cooked for extended periods of time. If you don't want this gelatinous consistency, saute or stir-fry the okra in hot oil quickly and the moisture will stay within the pod.
Immature fruit: cooked on their own or added to soups etc. They can be used fresh or dried. Mucilaginous, they are commonly used as a thickening for soups, stews and sauces. The fruits are rich in pectin and are also a fair source of iron and calcium. The fruit should be harvested whilst young, older fruits soon become fibrous. The fruit can be up to 20 cm long.
Seed: cooked or ground into a meal and used in making bread or made into "tofu" or "tempeh". The roasted seed is a coffee substitute. Probably the best of the coffee substitutes. The seed contains up to 22% of an edible oil. The leaves, flower buds, flowers and calyces can be eaten cooked as greens. The leaves can be dried, crushed into a powder and stored for later use. They are also used as a flavoring.
Root: it is edible but very fibrous. Mucilaginous, without very much flavor.
Medicinal
Companion Planting
Problems
APHIDS
Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina),
Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), \Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris),
Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi),
Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata),
Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
Spider Mites
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Preys on Aphids, small Caterpillars and Caterpillar eggs, Flea beetles, Fleahoppers, Lygus bugs, Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies.
To attract Big-Eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata),
Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Slugs
To attract Earwigs to your garden you will need to grow: Celery (Apium graveolens), Beets (Beta vulgaris, Cabbages, Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea/Brassica rapa), Cucumber (Cucumis sativus), Dahlia, Carrot (Daucus carota), Carnation (Dianthus), Carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus), Strawberry (Fragaria ananassa), Hop (Humulus lupulus), Lettuce (Lactuca sativa), Lupin (Lupinus angustifolius), Apple (Malus domestica), Apricot (Prunus armeniaca), Sweet Cherry (Prunus avium), Plum (Prunus domestica), Peach (Prunus persica), European Pear (Pyrus communis), Rhubarb (Rheum hybridum), Roses (Rosa), Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum), Potato (Solanum tuberosum), Grapevine (Vitis vinifera), Corn (Zea mays), Zinnia.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado Potato Beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: Evening Primrose, Amaranthus, and Clover.
Whiteflies
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
Big-eyed Bugs: Preys on Aphids, small Caterpillars and Caterpillar eggs, Flea beetles, Fleahoppers, Lygus bugs, Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies.
To attract Big-Eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Nutrition
Health Benefits of Okra
Improves Vision: Okra contains a very high content of vitamin A, as well as antioxidant components like beta carotenes, xanthein, and lutein. Antioxidants are powerful compounds that destroy or neutralize free radicals, which are the dangerous byproducts of cellular metabolism. Free radicals are responsible for cell degradation in the body, including those responsible for vision. With high levels of okra in your diet, you can protect your eyes against macular degeneration and cataracts.
Skin Care: Vitamin A antioxidants are also able to protect skin health, by promoting quicker healing, reducing the appearance of scars and acne, and eliminating wrinkles. This is because the antioxidants are able to neutralize the free radicals which may have damaged those skin cells.
Boosts Immunity: The various antioxidant components of okra make it very beneficial to fight off free radicals and the high vitamin C content also means that the body’s immunity is boosted. This vitamin can stimulate the immune system to create white blood cells, which can combat foreign pathogens and materials in the body that can weaken the immune system.
Lowers Blood Pressure: Okra is a good source of both vitamins and minerals, including potassium, which is an essential aspect of human health. Potassium is necessary to maintain proper fluid balance in the body because it balances sodium. Furthermore, potassium helps relax the blood vessels and arteries, which reduces blood pressure and lessens the strain on the cardiovascular system. This means that the chances of clotting and atherosclerosis will be greatly reduced.
Word of Caution: One thing you do need to worry about while consuming okra is its high levels of oxalates. Oxalates bind to existing kidney and gallstones and cause them to grow and may worsen the associated conditions. Frying okra can also increase your cholesterol intake for the day, so cooking it in other ways is wise if you want to maintain a good cholesterol balance.
Suggested varieties
Amaranth: Love Lies Bleeding (Heirloom) (Amaranthus caudatus)
Amaranth: Red Garnet (Heirloom) (Amaranthus tricolor)
Balm: Lemon (Melissa officinalis)
Basil: Cinnamon (Ocimum basilicum)
Cinnamon Basil is a Mexican cultivar with decorative, purple-flushed foliage, light pink flower spikes and a distinctive cinnamon-like aroma! Use fresh or dried leaves in your cooking! Popular for use in herbal tea and potpourri! Attractive foliage and blooms also make this a valuable ornamental addition to your herb garden! Full size plants range from 18-30" tall by 12-18" in width. Average water needs.
Basil: Clove Scented (Ocimum basilicum)
Basil: Italian Large Leaf (Ocimum basilicum)
Basil: Lemon (Ocimum basilicum)
Basil: Lime (Ocimum basilicum)
Basil: Purple Ruffles (Ocimum basilicum)
Basil: Spicy Bush (Ocimum basilicum var. minimum)
Basil: Sweet (Ocimum basilicum)
Beets: Cylindra (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris)
Beets: Detroit Dark Red (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris)
Only a few left!
Beets: Golden Detroit (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris)
Beets seem to have originated in the Mediterranean region, where people grew them for thousands of years. Later, beets grew in Germany and Holland and were used as cattle fodder; they were later imported to England for this purpose, but the poor began to raise them for an affordable food source. American colonists later brought them to the New World, where they became a commonly enjoyed food both for their roots and their greens. According to historians, George Washington experimented with beets, cross-pollinating them to create new varieties.
Bergamot: Wild (Monarda fistulosa)
Cabbage: Early Jersey Wakefield (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
English Marigold (Calendula officinalis)
Caraway (Carum carvi)
Only a few left!
Carrots: Chantenay Red Cored (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Cosmic Purple (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Danvers (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Rainbow Blend (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Scarlet Nantes (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Tendersweet (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Celery: Tendercrisp (Heirloom) (Apium graveolens var. dulce)
Only a few left!
Celery: Utah Tall 52/70 (Heirloom) (Apium graveolens var. dulce)
Chives: Garlic (Allium tuberosum)
Chives: Onion (Allium schoenoprasum var. album)
Clover: Crimson (Trifolium incarnatum)
Clover: Purple Prairie (Dalea purpurea)
Coriander: Leisure (Coriandrum sativum)
Corn: Country Gentleman-Open Pollinated (Heirloom) (Zea mays)
Corn: Golden Bantam-Open Pollinated (Heirloom) (Zea mays)
Corn, Popcorn: Shaman's Blue (Hybrid) Open Pollinated (Zea mays)
Blue corn originated in the Andes Mountains of Peru, where the native peoples usually ground it into flour for cooking. Indians of Mexico and the southwestern United States also widely used this corn, since its dryness made it an excellent flour corn and gave it good resistance to disease. This exciting blue popcorn receives high marks for both visual and taste appeal. The unique blue/purple kernel pops into mounds of snow white popcorn that will satisfy any popcorn lover with its slightly sweet flavor.
Corn, Popcorn: South American Yellow (Zea mays)
According to evidence found by archaeologists on the northern coast of Peru, popcorn was a staple in the ancient civilizations of South America. Popcorn also grew above the border, and it once occupied a space in nearly every American garden. At the beginning of the twentieth century, 52 varieties of popcorn were offered by the seed catalogs of the time. A wise choice for popcorn lovers! This prolific variety bears 2-3, 6-9 inch ears per plant. When popped, the large yellow kernels produce a buttery tasting popcorn.
Corn, Popcorn: Strawberry Red (Zea Mays)
Although it's exact origin is unknown, it is believed that Strawberry Red Popcorn was domesticated by the Olmec and the Mayans. Not only is this amazing variety edible, but it is just as decorative. Each plant grows to 5-6' and bares two or so 2-3" strawberry shaped ears that are covered with brilliant burgundy kernels! Your mind will be blown as you watch the red kernels pop into white popcorn with in the blink of eye!
Cosmos: Bright Lights (Cosmos sulphureus)
Cosmos: Candy Stripe (Cosmos bipinnatus)
Cosmos: Radiance (Cosmos bipinnatus)
Cucumber: Lemon (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: Marketmore 76' (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: Mexican Sour Gherkin (Heirloom) (Melothria scabra)
Cucumber: National Pickling (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: Straight Eight (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: Sumter (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: White Wonder (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
This high yielding ivory white cucumber variety was introduced into the U.S. and first offered by Burpee Seed Company in 1893. White Wonder Cucumbers are delicious raw, in salads, or pickled.
Cucumber: Wisconsin SMR 58 (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Dill: Dukat (Anethum graveolens)
Eggplant: Black Beauty (Heirloom) (Solanum melongena var. esculentum)
Eggplant: Golden Egg (Solanum Melongena)
Ornamental Eggplant is a very unique tropical annual that produce purple flowers and egg-shaped, edible fruit that begin white and turn golden upon maturity. Excellent choices for pots and containers, ornamental hedge, or house plant.
Eggplant: Long Purple (Heirloom) (Solanum melongena)
This Italian heirloom eggplant, Long Purple, produces dark purple cucumber-shaped fruit with firm, mild flesh. Good yields, especially in northern climates! Plants will typically produce 4 or more 8-10" fruits with harvest beginning in 70 to 80 days. Average water needs. Some parts of plant are poisonous if ingested.
Fennel: Florence (Foeniculum vulgare var. azoricum)
Lettuce: Bibb (Heirloom)
Lettuce: Freckles Romaine (Heirloom)
Lettuce: Oakleaf (Heirloom)
Lettuce: Red Romaine (Heirloom)
Marigolds: Naughty Marietta (Tagetes patula)
Marigolds: Sparky Mix French (Tagetes patula)
Marigold: White (Tagetes Erecta 'Kilimanjaro')
Commonly called African marigold, Aztec marigold, American marigold or big marigold, is native to Mexico and Central America. Big marigold may be the best descriptive name because plants are noted for their large flowerheads. They typically grow from 1-4’ tall and feature huge, mostly double-globular flowers (2-4” diameter) in various shades of yellow, orange, and whitish. This variety is unaffected by high summer heat and generally blooms throughout the summer.
Melon: Cantaloupe, Hale's Best Jumbo (Cucumis melo)
Melon, Cantaloupe: Hearts of Gold (Heirloom) (Cucumis melo)
Melon, Cantaloupe: Honey Dew Green Flesh (Heirloom) (Cucumis melo var. inodorus)
Melon, Cantaloupe: Honey Rock (Heirloom) (Cucumis melo)
Melon, Watermelon: Black Diamond (Heirloom) (Citrullus lanatus)
Melon, Watermelon: Crimson Sweet (Citrullus lanatus)
Melon, Watermelon: Moon and Stars (Heirloom) (Citrullus lanatus)
Melon, Watermelon: Sugar Baby (Heirloom) (Citrullus lanatus)
Only a few left!
Milkweed: Blood Flower (Asclepias curassavica)
Milkweed: Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa)
Milkweed: Showy (Asclepias speciosa)
Milkweed: Swamp (Asclepias incarnata)
As the name indicates, these swamp milkweed seeds for sale thrive in swamps and low meadows or along streams. The bright pink flowers attract swarms of bees and butterflies, and have a sweet scent described as similar to vanilla or cinnamon. At one time, the silk from swamp milkweed seed pods was spun for fabric or used for stuffing pillows; in World War II, school children gathered the silk to provide a cheap filling for soldiers' life jackets. Commercial attempts to make use of this abundant plant included the manufacture of paper, fabric, lubricant, fuel, and rubber; eventually these became impractical and were abandoned. Though this plant is toxic to most animals, butterflies are immune to the plant's poison and actually become rather poisonous themselves as protection from predators.