Kale: Red Russian (Heirloom) (Brassica Oleracea - Acephala Group)
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General Information
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Soil Preparation & Start Indoors
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Transplant Outdoors & Start Outdoors
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Crop Care
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Harvesting & Storage
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Seed Saving
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Culinary
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Companion Planting
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Nutrition & Health Benefits
Also Known As: Siberian Kale or Ragged Jack.
Ease of Growing: Easy
Grown as: Biennial
Days to Maturity: 50 days
Hardiness: Hardy. This variety will keep growing and producing right through the winter in milder areas and can be extremely frost tolerant.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Spring, Fall Transplant, Fall
Growing Season: Short, Long
Growing Conditions: Cold, Cool, Warm. This variety grows well in both heat and cold. In mild climates it will continue growing right through the winter.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 0°F - 80°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 45°F. Kale is pretty hardy and can go into the ground when it is still fairly cold. However it will germinate and grow faster in warmer soil.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Cold, Cool, Warm). Kale will be most productive in full sun, though it will tolerate partial shade.
Water: Moderate. Kale must have plenty of water for maximum productivity and best quality.
Feeder: Heavy. Low nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Kale has similar nutritional requirements as cabbage, in that it needs a significant amount of phosphorus and potassium but not a lot of nitrogen. Early varieties require a higher soil fertility than mid or late-season varieties.
Suitability: Tolerates light frost, Tolerates hard frost, Needs summer shade
Small Gardens?: Yes
Containers?: Yes. You can grow a single kale plant in a one gallon pot or groups of plants in larger containers. Make sure that your container has drainage holes. Fill with a mixture of potting soil and compost and water thoroughly. In hot weather you should keep them out of direct sun.
Attracts beneficial insects?: No
Plant Height: 18-36"
Spacing: 12-18"
Sow Depth: 0.25 to 0.5"
Hardiness Zone: 3-11
Produces: grayish green leaves with purple veins; plant grows up to 30" tall and 30" wide.
Soil Preparation
Soil pH: 6.0-7.5, Ideal 6.5-7.0. Kale is more tolerant of poor soil than any of the other Brassicas, but the most palatable leaves are produced by rapid uninterrupted growth. For this the soil must be rich and moisture retentive. It is important that the soil is well drained when growing kale as a winter crop. If the soil is too wet the roots may rot. Kale likes a neutral pH, so add lime if necessary.
Soil Preparation:
Compost (Nitrogen), 2", in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Kale likes organic matter, so amend the soil by digging in 2˝ of compost or aged manure.
Standard Mix, 5 pounds per 100 sq. ft., in top 6" of soil, 1 time: A standard mix will supply any additional nutrients required and should be incorporated along with the compost. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
- 4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
- 2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
- 2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
- 1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
- 1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Start Indoors
Soil temp for germination: 40°F to 100°F, optimal 60°F to 85°F, optimal 77°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 8 to 12 (Spring/Summer), 10 to 14 (Fall/Winter)
Germinate:
5 weeks before last frost date: Kale is often started indoors for planting out in early spring and harvesting in early summer. Transplants may also be used where insects or other pests are a problem. Kale doesn’t mind transplanting so can be started in flats, as well as cell packs and soil blocks.
1. Plant seeds 1/2" deep.
Germinate:
15 weeks before first frost date: Kale is often started indoors for planting out in later summer and harvesting through the fall. In areas with mild winters Kale can be overwintered. Transplants may also be used where insects or other pests are a problem. Kale doesn’t mind transplanting so can be started in flats, as well as cell packs and soil blocks.
1. Plant seeds 1/2" deep and keep moist.
Harden Off: 1 weeks before last frost date. Harden off your plants by exposing them to lower temperatures for 1 to 2 weeks depending on your conditions. You want to insure the plant is hardy enough to adjust to the cooler soil conditions. This is often done by leaving plants outside when it is colder for a longer amount of time each day.
Transplant Outdoors
10 weeks before first frost date: The seedlings should go outside when they have 4 or 5 true leaves and are about 5˝ high. Give starts a good watering after transplanting.
Cold, Cool, Warm: This variety grows well in both heat and cold. In mild climates it will continue growing right through the winter.
When outdoor temp: 0°F to 80°F, optimal temp 40°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Kale is pretty hardy and can go into the ground when it is still fairly cold. However it will germinate and grow faster in warmer soil.
Spacing: 12-18", 1 plants per sq ft. Kale plants can get quite big, so give them plenty of room: 12" to 18" apart.
12" apart in excellent soil
15" apart in good soil
18" apart in poor soil
Support: No
Start Outdoors
When outdoor temp: 0°F to 80°F, optimal temp 40°F to 65°F
When min soil temp: 45°F. Kale is pretty hardy and can go into the ground when it is still fairly cold. However it will germinate and grow faster in warmer soil.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Kale seed should be planted 1/4" in cold soil to 1/2" deep in warmer soil. It germinates and grows fairly quickly whatever the situation.
Spacing: 12-18", 1 plants per sq ft. Kale plants can get quite big, so give them plenty of room: 12" to 18" apart.
12" apart in excellent soil
15" apart in good soil
18" apart in poor soil
Spring Crop:
2-4 weeks before last frost date: Kale can be planted in spring for harvesting in early summer.
1. Plant the seeds ¼˝ to ½˝ deep and 2˝ apart. Keep seeds moist during germination.
Fall Crop:
8-12 weeks before first frost date: Kale germinates fast and grows quickly, so it is easily direct sown, if pests aren't a problem. If pests are a problem, protect your seedlings with a row cover, or start indoors.
Kale is most useful as a fall and winter crop. It is planted in midsummer, at least 2 to 3 months before the first fall frost date. The plants need to be fairly big by the time of the first frost, so they are vigorous enough to keep growing.
1. Plant the seeds ¼˝ to ½˝ deep and 2˝ apart. Keep seeds moist during germination.
Support: No
Water Needs: Moderate. Kale must have plenty of water for maximum productivity and best quality.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Low nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Kale has similar nutritional requirements as cabbage, in that it needs a significant amount of phosphorus and potassium but not a lot of nitrogen. Early varieties require a higher soil fertility than mid or late-season varieties.
Watering, regularly: Water, 1 quart(s), regularly, 2 times a week. Keep the plants well supplied with water for maximum production and best quality. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Watering, regularly: Water, 0.5 gallon(s) per plant, regularly, 2 times a week. Kale has large leaves and can lose a lot of water in warm weather. Keep the plants well supplied with water for maximum production and best quality. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Weeding, regularly: regularly, every 3 weeks. Kale is pretty independent once established, so you only really need worry about weeds while it is young.
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Compost tea, 5 gallon(s) per 100 sq. ft., after transplanting, 1 month. Feed the plants with compost tea or liquid kelp, starting as soon as they have recovered from transplanting and every month thereafter. This is especially important if you are harvesting regularly.
Thinning, after sowing: after sowing, every 3 weeks. Start harvest thinnings when all the seedlings have emerged, and gradually thin them to the recommended spacing (check your variety for this spacing).
Side Dressing, to cool soil: Mulch, 2 inch(es), to cool soil, 1 time. Use a mulch in summer to suppress weeds, keep the soil cool and conserve soil moisture.
Support: No
Harvesting
When and How:
Flower, -182 days after maturity:
When: When Kale bolts in spring, the flower buds can (and should) be gathered and used like Broccoli. If they are not infested with aphids they are a nutritious and tasty treat that is not to be missed.
How: Harvest the flower buds by cutting them at the base of the stalk.
Cut & Come Again, 1-180 days after maturity:
When: Kale produces an abundance of foliage right through the growing season, but it is at its best during cold weather. This is because cold weather stimulates the conversion of starches in the leaves into sugars (a similar thing happens in Jerusalem Artichokes and Parsnips). A few nights of freezing temperatures are enough to make this happen. The cold also makes the leaves more tender. You can gather Kale leaves for as long as they are produced, sometimes right through the winter. Collect young leaves anytime. Clip oldest leaves when less than 12" long for tender leaves and best flavor.
How: For a longer and bigger harvest it is best to gather single leaves as they get large enough. Don’t take them from the growing point and only take 1 or 2 leaves from a plant at one time. You may be able to stimulate an old plant to put out tender new growth by stripping off all of its leaves.
Storage
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: 0-180 days
Kale can be kept in a plastic bag in the fridge up to 10 days.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-10 days
The plants usually produce an abundance of seed and can sometimes get so top heavy they need staking to stop them falling over. The seed is produced in long pods and should be gathered when the older bottom pods begin to split open. Watch them carefully as they shatter easily when they are fully ripe. Cut the entire seed pod bearing stems and dry them in a warm place (I put small quantities in a paper grocery bag, so I don't lose any seeds). The large seeds are easily handled and cleaned. Of course it is essential that they are thoroughly dry before storage.
If you save kale seed (and you should) you will end up with a lot, especially as you should save the seed from at least 5 plants to maintain some genetic variability. This is far more than you will ever need for planting, but you can sprout some of it like alfalfa, or use it to grow micro-greens.
Seed Viability in Years: 4-6 Years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary Use: Kale is a versatile green leafy vegetable that can be prepared in soups, pastas, steamed, sauteed or made into chips. It goes well with other vegetables, is complimented by garlic or onions, and makes an excellent side dish to serve with fish or meat.
Companion Planting
Companions: Plant with late cabbage or potatoes. Use ornamental types to accent flower or vegetable plantings.
Enemies: Many companion gardeners believe grapes fail to thrive when planted near kale; others volunteer strawberries and tomatoes as unsuitable companions.
Problems
cabbageworms
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Damsel Bugs: Prey on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Potato Beetles, and Cabbage Worms.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Tachinid Flies: Prey on Cabbageworms, Gypsy Moths, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetle, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: carrots, dill, coriander, and buckwheat.
Yellow Jacket Wasps: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
Cabbage loopers
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Minute Pirate Bugs: Preys on spider mites, cabbage looper, insect eggs, caterpillars, aphids, thrips
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Spiders: Prey on a wide range including bed bugs, aphids, roaches, grasshoppers, cabbage looper, and fruit flies.
To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving spiders, mulch for predatory spiders.
flea beetles
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
Damsel Bugs: Preys on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Flea beetles, Potato beetles, and Cabbage worms.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Preys on Aphids, small Caterpillars and Caterpillar eggs, Flea beetles, Fleahoppers, Lygus bugs, Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies.
To attract Big-Eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Caterpillars
To attract Assassin Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Most garden plants, field crops, ornamental trees and shrubs. Spined assassin bugs are often found on goldenrod and other wildflowers.
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Braconid Wasps: prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Hoverflies: Prey on aphids, scale insects, caterpillars, and Thrips.
To attract Hoverflies to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi),
Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Praying Mantis: Preys on a wide range including caterpillars, moths, beetles, and crickets.
To attract Praying Mantis to your garden you will need to grow: tall grasses and shrubs, cosmos, marigolds, and dills.
Thrips
To attract Big-eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Hoverflies: Preys on Aphids, Scale insects, Caterpillars, and Thrips.
To attract Hoverflies to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Prey on Spider Mites, Cabbage Looper, Insect Eggs, Caterpillars, Aphids, and Thrips.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Plants that attract Minute Pirate Bugs are: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Slugs
To attract Earwigs to your garden you will need to grow: Celery (Apium graveolens), Beets (Beta vulgaris, Cabbages, Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea/Brassica rapa), Cucumber (Cucumis sativus), Dahlia, Carrot (Daucus carota), Carnation (Dianthus), Carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus), Strawberry (Fragaria ananassa), Hop (Humulus lupulus), Lettuce (Lactuca sativa), Lupin (Lupinus angustifolius), Apple (Malus domestica), Apricot (Prunus armeniaca), Sweet Cherry (Prunus avium), Plum (Prunus domestica), Peach (Prunus persica), European Pear (Pyrus communis), Rhubarb (Rheum hybridum), Roses (Rosa), Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum), Potato (Solanum tuberosum), Grapevine (Vitis vinifera), Corn (Zea mays), Zinnia.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado Potato Beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: Evening Primrose, Amaranthus, and Clover.
Aphids
Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina),
Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), \Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris),
Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
Nutrition
The Health Benefits of Kale
Hair Care: With a rich supply of iron, vitamin C, and vitamin A, this vegetable is excellent for strengthening the hair and stimulating its growth. Nutrients like vitamin A are needed for the production of hair, and vitamin C is a key part of collagen, which is also crucial in the structure of hair. Furthermore, proper iron levels are required to defend against unwanted hair loss.
Skin Care: Lutein and zeaxanthin, along with various other flavonoids, are found in kale, and these antioxidants have been proven to be important for skin health. Carotenoids are able to neutralize free radicals in the body and lower levels of oxidative stress, including on the skin. This will help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and age spots, as well as blemishes and scars, and even increase the elasticity of your skin to help you look younger.
Weight Loss: With less than 40 calories in a single cup of this leafy green vegetable, you can get a strong boost of nutrients and antioxidants without compromising your caloric goals. If you are struggling with weight loss, kale can boost your metabolism and speed the process of passive fat-burning, helping you lose even more weight!
Reduces Inflammation: The anti-inflammatory nature of kale comes from its high levels of vitamin K, as well as omega-3 fatty acids. The former is a key nutrient in regulating the body’s inflammatory response, while the latter is able to lower levels of chronic inflammation in the cardiovascular system and gut.
Lowers Blood Pressure: There is a notable amount of potassium found in kale (8% of your daily recommendation in a single cup), which makes this vegetable excellent for lowering blood pressure. As a vasodilator, potassium is able to lower the tension in blood vessels and arteries, which reduces blood pressure and reduces your risk of heart attack and stroke.
Improves Digestion: If you are constipated, adding leafy green vegetables like kale to your diet is extremely important. It is high in dietary fiber (with 10% of your daily requirement in every cup), which is good for bulking up the stool and stimulating peristaltic motion in the gut, thus reducing signs of constipation, bloating, cramping and diarrhea.
Improves Bone Health: Research has shown that having a deficiency in vitamin K makes you more susceptible to osteoporosis and bone breakage. With more than 10 times the daily recommended amount of vitamin K, in addition to a range of other minerals critical for bone health, kale is a great choice for boosting bone mineral density.
Prevents Heart Disease: This popular vegetable has a good amount of omega-3 fatty acids, such as alpha-linolenic acid, which has been shown to lower the level of “bad” cholesterol (LDL) and increase the level of “good” cholesterol (HDL). This can prevent plaque deposition in the arteries and lower your risk for coronary heart disease.
Prevents Cancer: Some studies have linked the active ingredients in kale to a lower risk of cancer. Once glucosinolates are consumed, they are converted by the body into anti-cancer compounds that effectively work as antioxidants, seeking out free radicals and preventing cellular mutation, which can lead to cancer.
Improves Vision: The presence of carotenoids in kale makes it an ideal booster for vision. Lutein and zeaxanthin have been linked to lower levels of macular degeneration and the slowed progression of cataracts.
Lowers Diabetes: One of the antioxidants found in kale, alpha-lipoic acid, has been linked to lower levels of blood sugar and improved insulin sensitivity by the body. This can help prevent dangerous spikes and drops in glucose and insulin levels, making disease management easier for diabetic patients.
Suggested varieties
Amaranth: Love Lies Bleeding (Heirloom) (Amaranthus caudatus)
Amaranth: Red Garnet (Heirloom) (Amaranthus tricolor)
Balm: Lemon (Melissa officinalis)
Beets: Cylindra (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris)
Beets: Detroit Dark Red (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris)
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Beets: Golden Detroit (Heirloom) (Beta vulgaris)
Beets seem to have originated in the Mediterranean region, where people grew them for thousands of years. Later, beets grew in Germany and Holland and were used as cattle fodder; they were later imported to England for this purpose, but the poor began to raise them for an affordable food source. American colonists later brought them to the New World, where they became a commonly enjoyed food both for their roots and their greens. According to historians, George Washington experimented with beets, cross-pollinating them to create new varieties.
Bergamot: Wild (Monarda fistulosa)
Cabbage: Early Jersey Wakefield (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. capitata)
English Marigold (Calendula officinalis)
Caraway (Carum carvi)
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Carrots: Chantenay Red Cored (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Cosmic Purple (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Danvers (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Rainbow Blend (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Scarlet Nantes (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Carrots: Tendersweet (Heirloom) (Daucus carota)
Cauliflower: Snowball Y Improved (Heirloom) (Brassica oleracea var. botrytis)
Celery: Tendercrisp (Heirloom) (Apium graveolens var. dulce)
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Celery: Utah Tall 52/70 (Heirloom) (Apium graveolens var. dulce)
Chives: Garlic (Allium tuberosum)
Chives: Onion (Allium schoenoprasum var. album)
Coriander: Leisure (Coriandrum sativum)
Corn: Country Gentleman-Open Pollinated (Heirloom) (Zea mays)
Corn: Golden Bantam-Open Pollinated (Heirloom) (Zea mays)
Corn, Popcorn: Shaman's Blue (Hybrid) Open Pollinated (Zea mays)
Blue corn originated in the Andes Mountains of Peru, where the native peoples usually ground it into flour for cooking. Indians of Mexico and the southwestern United States also widely used this corn, since its dryness made it an excellent flour corn and gave it good resistance to disease. This exciting blue popcorn receives high marks for both visual and taste appeal. The unique blue/purple kernel pops into mounds of snow white popcorn that will satisfy any popcorn lover with its slightly sweet flavor.
Corn, Popcorn: South American Yellow (Zea mays)
According to evidence found by archaeologists on the northern coast of Peru, popcorn was a staple in the ancient civilizations of South America. Popcorn also grew above the border, and it once occupied a space in nearly every American garden. At the beginning of the twentieth century, 52 varieties of popcorn were offered by the seed catalogs of the time. A wise choice for popcorn lovers! This prolific variety bears 2-3, 6-9 inch ears per plant. When popped, the large yellow kernels produce a buttery tasting popcorn.
Corn, Popcorn: Strawberry Red (Zea Mays)
Although it's exact origin is unknown, it is believed that Strawberry Red Popcorn was domesticated by the Olmec and the Mayans. Not only is this amazing variety edible, but it is just as decorative. Each plant grows to 5-6' and bares two or so 2-3" strawberry shaped ears that are covered with brilliant burgundy kernels! Your mind will be blown as you watch the red kernels pop into white popcorn with in the blink of eye!
Cosmos: Bright Lights (Cosmos sulphureus)
Cosmos: Candy Stripe (Cosmos bipinnatus)
Cosmos: Radiance (Cosmos bipinnatus)
Cucumber: Lemon (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: Marketmore 76' (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: Mexican Sour Gherkin (Heirloom) (Melothria scabra)
Cucumber: National Pickling (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: Straight Eight (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: Sumter (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber: White Wonder (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
This high yielding ivory white cucumber variety was introduced into the U.S. and first offered by Burpee Seed Company in 1893. White Wonder Cucumbers are delicious raw, in salads, or pickled.
Cucumber: Wisconsin SMR 58 (Heirloom) (Cucumis sativus)
Dill: Dukat (Anethum graveolens)
Fennel: Florence (Foeniculum vulgare var. azoricum)
Lettuce: Bibb (Heirloom)
Lettuce: Freckles Romaine (Heirloom)
Lettuce: Oakleaf (Heirloom)
Lettuce: Red Romaine (Heirloom)
Marigolds: Naughty Marietta (Tagetes patula)
Marigolds: Sparky Mix French (Tagetes patula)
Marigold: White (Tagetes Erecta 'Kilimanjaro')
Commonly called African marigold, Aztec marigold, American marigold or big marigold, is native to Mexico and Central America. Big marigold may be the best descriptive name because plants are noted for their large flowerheads. They typically grow from 1-4’ tall and feature huge, mostly double-globular flowers (2-4” diameter) in various shades of yellow, orange, and whitish. This variety is unaffected by high summer heat and generally blooms throughout the summer.
Nasturtiums: Empress of India (Tropaeolum minus)
Nasturtiums: Jewel Mix (Tropaeolum minus)
Parsley: Italian Giant (Heirloom) (Petroselinum crispum var. neapolitanum)
Penstemon: Rocky Mountain (Penstemon strictus)
Poached Egg Plant (Limnanthes douglasii)
This native species was first discovered by David Douglas, a Scottish botanist commissioned to collect native American plants suitable for the gardens of Great Britain. The species name "douglasii" honors his discovery, while the genus name "Limnanthes" means "marsh flower" because of this plant's preference for moist soil. This fragrant butterfly magnet has been awarded the Royal Horticultural Society's prestigious Award of Garden Merit.
Radish: Early Scarlet Globe (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
Radish: French Breakfast (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
Radish: German Giant (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
Radish: Watermelon (Heirloom) (Raphanus sativus)
The Watermelon radish is a type of Japanese winter radish also known as a "daikon," which simply means "large root" in Japanese. Daikon radishes account for the largest percentage of any cultivated vegetable in Japan, and can be found in some form in nearly every meal of that country. Watermelon radishes, which orginated in north China near Beijing, are often served sweetened there as a dessert or fruit.