Long Island Improved Brussels Sprouts (Brassica oleracea)

(Brassica oleracea 'Long Island Improved')

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Long Island Improved Brussels Sprouts is a heirloom, hardy, cool weather annual vegetable that is native to Europe, but was introduced to the United States in the 1890s. At maturity, this plant reaches the height of 36-48” and features 50-100 dark green sprouts about 1-2" in diameter. This plant can be grown in a container, tolerates frost, and is edible.

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General Information
Soil Preparation & Start Indoors
Transplant Outdoors & Start Outdoors
Crop Care
Harvesting & Storage
Seed Saving
Culinary
Companion Planting
Nutrition & Health Benefits

Family: Brassicaceae

Genus: Brassica

Species: oleracea

Variety: Long Island Improved Brussels Sprouts

Native to: France, Great Britain, Spain.

Introduced into: Albania, Algeria, Antipodean Is., Assam, Baltic States, Bangladesh, Belarus, Belgium, California, Canary Is., Central European Rus, Chatham Is., Chile South, China North-Central, China South-Central, China Southeast, Connecticut, Costa Rica, Crozet Is., Czechoslovakia, East European Russia, East Himalaya, Easter Is., Ecuador, El Salvador, Ethiopia, Falkland Is., Germany, Greece, Guatemala, Illinois, India, Iowa, Iraq, Juan Fernández Is., Kazakhstan, Kentucky, Kenya, Korea, Krym, Labrador, Lebanon-Syria, Libya, Madeira, Massachusetts, Morocco, Netherlands, New Caledonia, New South Wales, New York, New Zealand North, New Zealand South, Newfoundland, North European Russi, Northern Territory, Northwest European R, Ohio, Ontario, Pennsylvania, Prince Edward I., Queensland, Québec, Rhode I., Sardegna, Saudi Arabia, South Australia, South European Russi, Tadzhikistan, Tanzania, Tasmania, Texas, Trinidad-Tobago, Tunisia, Turkmenistan, Ukraine, Vermont, Victoria, Vietnam, Western Australia, Zaïre.

Ease of Growing: Moderate

Grown as: Annual

Days to Maturity: 90 days

Hardiness: Hardy. Brussels Sprouts are hardy, as well as temperature-sensitive. They produce the most flavor when grown in cool weather. Brussels sprouts are cold-hardy to 0°F (-18°C) and their flavor is enhanced by frost. They do not like hot long summers.

Crops: Fall Transplant, Fall

Growing Season: Long

Growing Conditions: Cold, Cool. Brussels Sprouts grow best when average temperature conditions are around 60-65 degrees F. They do best as a fall crop and are not recommended as a spring crop.

Outdoor Growing Temp: 40°F - 75°F

Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 45°F. Brussels Sprout will germinate in cool soil, but do so much faster in warm soil.

Start Indoors: Yes

Start Outdoors: Yes

Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Cool). Needs full sun for best growth.

Water: Moderate. Keep the soil evenly moist at all times.

Feeder: Heavy. Like most of the Brassicas, Brussels Sprouts are heavy feeders. They like lots of potassium and phosphorus but do not need too much nitrogen, as this can adversely affect the flavor of the sprouts. Early varieties require a higher soil fertility than mid- or late-season varieties.

Suitability: Tolerates light frost, Tolerates hard frost, Needs summer shade

Small Gardens?: Yes

Containers?: Yes. For one Brussels Sprouts plant, you'll need a large pot that is at least 12 inches deep and 12 inches wide. Fill with a mixture of potting soil and compost and keep the soil moist but not overly wet. If you are using a larger container, be sure to space your Brussels Sprouts plants at least 24 to 36 inches apart. The benefit of growing Brussels Sprouts in a container is that it can be moved to avoid too much heat, which may prolong the season.

Attracts beneficial insects?: No

Maintenance: Low

Plant Height: 36-48"

Spacing: 24-30"

Sow Depth: 1/2"

Hardiness Zone: 2-11

Produces: 50-100 dark green sprouts about 1-2" in diameter.

Garden Uses: Vegetable

Soil Preparation

Soil Preference:
Soil pH: 6.0-7.5, Ideal 6.5-7.0. Brussels Sprouts like a heavy, moisture retentive soil. It should be rich in organic matter and all nutrients for well balanced growth. They like lots of potassium and phosphorus, but don't need too much nitrogen as this can adversely affect the flavor of the sprouts.

Soil Preparation:
Compost (Nitrogen), 2", in top 8" of soil, 1 time: Prepare the soil by incorporating 2˝ to 3˝ of compost (or aged manure) into the top 6˝ to 8˝ of soil, which is where most of the plant's feeder roots are found.

Standard Mix, 5 pound(s) per 100 sq. ft., in top 8" of soil, 1 time: A standard mix will supply additional phosphate, wood ashes, kelp and dolomitic limestone. This should be incorporated into soil along with the compost.This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:

4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)

Start Indoors

Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" - 1/2" deep

Soil temp for germination: 45°F to 85°F, optimal 65°F to 75°F, optimal 75°F

Germinate:
12-16 weeks before first frost date: Brussels Sprouts are a very slow maturing crop (some varieties may take eight months), so are in the ground for a long time. This means that even a fall crop must go into the ground in early to mid summer (depending upon the climate and variety). Brussels Sprouts are almost always planted as a fall crop (in Britain they are a traditional Christmas “treat”). The sprouts then mature in the cool weather they prefer and so have much better flavor.

Transplant Outdoors

10-12 weeks before first frost date: The seedlings should be transplanted outside when they are 4˝ to 5˝ high and have 5 to 6 true leaves. Don’t wait too long to plant them out or they may get deficient. Plant them a little deeper than they were in the flat, up to the first true leaves.

Cold, Cool: Brussels Sprouts grow best when average temperature conditions are around 60-65 degrees F. They do best as a fall crop and are not recommended as a spring crop.

When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F

When min soil temp: 45°F. Brussels Sprout will germinate in cool soil, but do so much faster in warm soil.

Spacing: 24-30", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. The plants need a lot of space, so allow a minimum of 18" to 24" between the plants in the beds. Perhaps sow them in a row down the center of the bed. Another crop should be interplanted with them, to take advantage of the large vacant space between the plants.

Support: No

Start Outdoors

When Cold, Cool: Brussels Sprouts grow best when average temperature conditions are around 60-65 degrees F. They do best as a fall crop and are not recommended as a spring crop.

When outdoor temp: 40°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 65°F

When min soil temp: 45°F. Brussels Sprout will germinate in cool soil, but do so much faster in warm soil.

Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" - 1/2" deep.

Spacing: 24-30", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. The plants need a lot of space, so allow a minimum of 18" to 24" between the plants in the beds. Perhaps sow them in a row down the center of the bed. Another crop should be interplanted with them, to take advantage of the large vacant space between the plants.

Fall Crop:
12-16 weeks before last frost date: Brussels Sprouts are a very slow maturing crop (some varieties may take eight months), so are in the ground for a long time. This means that even a fall crop must go into the ground in early to mid summer (depending upon the climate and variety). Brussels Sprouts are almost always planted as a fall crop (in Britain they are a traditional Christmas “treat”). The sprouts then mature in the cool weather they prefer and so have much better flavor.

Support: No

Brussels Sprouts don't do well in hot weather. They require cool soil, cool weather and short days for best growth, and are not recommended as a spring crop because the sprouts would have to mature in hot weather, which would seriously impair their flavor and quality.

Water Needs: Moderate. Keep the soil evenly moist at all times.

Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Like most of the Brassicas, Brussels Sprouts are heavy feeders. They like lots of potassium and phosphorus but do not need too much nitrogen, as this can adversely affect the flavor of the sprouts. Early varieties require a higher soil fertility than mid- or late-season varieties.

Watering, regularly: Water, 1 quart(s), regularly, 3 times a week For best flavor and greatest productivity Brussels Sprout absolutely must have enough water, especially if the weather is warm. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.

Side Dressing, when 6" tall: Mulch, 2 inch(es), when 6" tall, 1 time. Mulch is very helpful for Brussels Sprouts, as otherwise there is a lot of bare soil between the plants. It keeps the soil cooler, suppresses weeds and conserves soil moisture.

Support: No

Harvesting

Ripening:
Brussels sprouts are axillary buds and mature gradually from the bottom of the stem upwards, in the order they were formed. They do this because the apical dominance hormone produced by the growing top is only effective for a certain distance. The sprouts generally start to form when nighttime temperatures drop to 60 degrees F. As the sprouts mature, the lower leaves may start to fade.

When and How:
Whole Fruit, 1-28 days after maturity:
When: Brussels sprouts are axillary buds and mature gradually from the bottom of the stem upwards, in the order they were formed. The sprouts generally start to form when night time temperatures drop to 60˚F. As the sprouts mature, the lower leaves may start to fade. The hardy sprouts stay in good condition even with frost (down to 20˚ F). Their flavor actually improves with cold weather.

How: Start picking (actually cutting) when the sprouts are about an inch across, beginning at the bottom and working your way up to the affect further production. top. Don’t leave any mature sprouts on the plant, as this may affect further production.

Storage

For longer term storage they are usually frozen.

Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 32°F
Storage Length: days

Brussels sprouts will store for a few weeks in a plastic bag in a refrigerator (don’t wash them). For longer term storage they are usually frozen.

Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-21 days

Brussels Sprouts are usually self-incompatible and must be cross-pollinated by insects. This means there must be a number of plants flowering at the same time. All of the Cole crops are the same species and will cross with each other. To maintain purity you have to ensure that only one type flowers at once. The alternative is to isolate them, either by distance (1000 yards for different varieties, 1500 yards for different crops), or by caging them (don't forget they need insects for pollination). Save the seed from at least 5 plants to maintain some genetic diversity.

Seed is produced in long pods and should be gathered when the older bottom pods first start to split open. Watch them carefully as they shatter easily when they are fully ripe. Cut the seedpod bearing stems and dry them in a warm
place (I put small quantities in a paper grocery bag so I don't lose any seeds). The large seeds are easily handled and cleaned. Of course it is essential that they are thoroughly dry before storage.

Seed Viability in Years: 8 yrs.
Germination Percentage: 75%

Taste:
Sturdy delicious flavor.

Culinary Use:
The quintessential autumn vegetable, Brussels Sprouts are like miniature heads of cabbage with a much milder flavor. They are best when uniform in size, firm, tight, small compact heads. They can be prepared by roasting with stock, pan seared in drippings, steamed, blanched or sauteed. They go well with a little butter, bread crumbs and a sprinkle of Parmesan cheese.

Leaf buds: raw or cooked. Well-grown plants produce an abundance of leaf-buds (looking rather like miniature cabbage heads) along the main stem at the leaf axils. These can be shredded and eaten raw in salads, though many people find them indigestible when eaten this way. They have a very nice cabbage flavor when cooked and are a very popular winter vegetable. By careful selection of varieties, it is possible to harvest the buds from early September until late spring.

Companion Planting

Allies: Try strong smelling herbs, such as hyssop, peppermint, sage, and wormwood, to discourage aphids and other insect pests. Some scientists believe a masking effect is at work in these types of plantings, in which the mustard oil odor of the Brussels sprouts plant is hidden by other strong smells.

Companions: Plant flowering herb such as chamomile and carrot family plants like dill nearby to help attract beneficial insects.

Enemies: Many companion gardeners believe that tomatoes planted nearby have a detrimental effect on Brussels sprouts. But research with cabbage plants indicates that tomatoes may offer some protection from whiteflies and cabbage flea beetles.

Problems

Potential insect problems include cabbageworms, cabbage loopers, flea beetles, caterpillars, thrips, slugs and aphids. Root maggots may be a problem in some areas. Watch for leaf spots, blackleg, black rot and yellows.

Cabbageworms

Beneficial insects such as Braconid Wasps, Birds, Damsel Bugs, Tachinid Flies, and Yellow Jacket Wasps all prey on Cabbageworms.

Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.

To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.

Damsel Bugs: Prey on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Potato Beetles, and Cabbage Worms.

To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Tachinid Flies: Prey on Cabbageworms, Gypsy Moths, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetle, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.

To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: carrots, dill, coriander, and buckwheat.

Yellow Jacket Wasps: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.

Cabbage Loopers

Beneficial insects such as Ladybugs, Minute Pirate Bugs, and Spiders all prey on Cabbage Loopers.

Flea Beetles

Beneficial insects such as Braconid wasps, Tachinid flies, Lacewings larvae, Damsel bugs, and Big Eyed Bug all prey on Flea Beetles.

Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.

To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.

Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.

To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.

Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.

To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.

Damsel Bugs: Preys on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Flea beetles, Potato beetles, and Cabbage worms.

To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Big-eyed Bugs: Preys on Aphids, small Caterpillars and Caterpillar eggs, Flea beetles, Fleahoppers, Lygus bugs, Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies.

To attract Big-Eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Caterpillars

Beneficial insects such as Assassin Bugs, Big Eyed Bugs, Braconid Wasps, Damsel Bugs, Ground Beetles, Hoverflies, Lacewings, Minute Pirate Bugs, and Preying Mantis all prey on Caterpillars.

Assassin Bugs: Preys on Aphids, leafhoppers, asparagus beetle eggs and larvae, small flying insects, and up to medium-sized caterpillars.

To attract Assassin Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Most garden plants, field crops, ornamental trees and shrubs. Spined assassin bugs are often found on goldenrod and other wildflowers.

Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.

To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Braconid Wasps: prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.

To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.

Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.

To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.

To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.

Hoverflies: Prey on aphids, scale insects, caterpillars, and Thrips.

To attract Hoverflies to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea ﬁlipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa ofﬁcinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda ﬁstulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys ofﬁcinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).

Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.

To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea ﬁlipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunﬂower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum ofﬁcinale).

Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.

To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Praying Mantis: Preys on a wide range including caterpillars, moths, beetles, and crickets.

To attract Praying Mantis to your garden you will need to grow: tall grasses and shrubs, cosmos, marigolds, and dills.

Thrips

Beneficial insects such as Big-eyed Bugs, Hoverflies, and Minute Pirate Bugs all prey on Thrips.

Big-eyed Bugs: Prey on Aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies.

To attract Big-eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Hoverflies: Preys on Aphids, Scale insects, Caterpillars, and Thrips.

To attract Hoverflies to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea ﬁlipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Asteralpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa ofﬁcinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda ﬁstulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys ofﬁcinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).

Minute Pirate Bugs: Prey on Spider Mites, Cabbage Looper, Insect Eggs, Caterpillars, Aphids, and Thrips.

To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Plants that attract Minute Pirate Bugs are: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Slugs

Beneficial insects such as earwigs and ground beetles prey on Slugs.

Earwig: prey on Slugs and Snails.

To attract Earwigs to your garden you will need to grow: Celery (Apium graveolens), Beets (Beta vulgaris, Cabbages, Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea/Brassica rapa), Cucumber (Cucumis sativus), Dahlia, Carrot (Daucus carota), Carnation (Dianthus), Carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus), Strawberry (Fragaria ananassa), Hop (Humulus lupulus), Lettuce (Lactuca sativa), Lupin (Lupinus angustifolius), Apple (Malus domestica), Apricot (Prunus armeniaca), Sweet Cherry (Prunus avium), Plum (Prunus domestica), Peach (Prunus persica), European Pear (Pyrus communis), Rhubarb (Rheum hybridum), Roses (Rosa), Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum), Potato (Solanum tuberosum), Grapevine (Vitis vinifera), Corn (Zea mays), Zinnia.

Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado Potato Beetles, and Cutworms.

To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: Evening Primrose, Amaranthus, and Clover.

Aphids

Beneficial insects such as Ladybugs, Collops Beetle, Soldier Beetles, Long-legged Flies, Hover Flies, Predaceous Midges, Damsel Bugs, Big-eyed Bugs, Minute Pirate Bugs, Lacewings, Parasitic Wasps,
Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.

Ladybeetles, Ladybugs, or Ladybird Beetles: Ladybeetles are probably the most well-known of beetles that eat aphids. There are many species, and both the adults and larvae eat aphids. Convergent lady beetles and the seven-spotted ladybeetles are abundant species in the environment. Eggs are found in clutches, yellow and football shaped. Larvae have an alligator-like appearance, and are black with orange markings. Pupae are sedentary. Ladybeetles are commercially available but purchasing is not generally recommended since the adult stage tends to fly away once released. Introductions may be more effective in greenhouses and high tunnels. Diverse plantings can help recruit resident ladybeetles to an area.

To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.

Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two
abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.

Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.

Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.

Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.

Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.

To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea ﬁlipendulina), Common yarrow
(Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), \Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa ofﬁcinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda ﬁstulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys ofﬁcinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia),
Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).

Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.

Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.

To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.

To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.

To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).

Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.

To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea ﬁlipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunﬂower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum ofﬁcinale).

Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.

Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.

Nutrition

The sprouts are rich in protein (for a green vegetable), vitamins A and C (much more than Cabbage), as well as potassium, iron, folate, riboflavin and several antioxidants.

The Health Benefits of Brussels Sprouts

Fighting cancer: Since the 1980s, consuming high amounts of cruciferous vegetables like Brussels sprouts has been associated with a lower risk of cancer. More recently, researchers have been able to pinpoint that the sulfur-containing compounds (namely sulforaphane) that give cruciferous vegetables their bitter bite are also what give them their cancer-fighting power.

More studies with sulforaphane are testing its ability to delay or impede cancer. Promising results have been seen with multiple types of cancers including melanoma, esophageal, prostate and pancreatic.

Researchers have discovered that sulforaphane has the power to inhibit the harmful enzyme histone deacetylase (HDAC), known to be involved in the progression of cancer cells. The ability to stop HDAC enzymes could make sulforaphane-containing foods a potentially powerful part of cancer treatment in the future.1

Brussels sprouts also contain a high amount of chlorophyll, which can block the carcinogenic effects of heterocyclic amines generated when grilling meats at a high temperature. If you tend to like your grilled foods charred, make sure to pair them with green vegetables to decrease your risk.2

Improving bone health: Low intakes of vitamin K have been associated with a higher risk for bone fracture. Adequate vitamin K consumption (which just ¾ cup of Brussels sprouts provides) improves bone health by acting as a modifier of bone matrix proteins, improving calcium absorption and reducing urinary excretion of calcium.3

Brussels sprouts also contribute to your daily need for calcium, providing 37 milligrams in one cup.

Managing diabetes: Many green vegetables contain an antioxidant known as alpha-lipoic acid that has been shown to lower glucose levels, increase insulin sensitivity and prevent oxidative stress-induced changes in patients with diabetes. Studies on alpha-lipoic acid have also shown decreases in peripheral neuropathy or autonomic neuropathy in diabetics.

Of note, most studies have used intravenous alpha-lipoic acid, and it is unsure whether oral supplementation would elicit the same benefits.

Maintaining vision: Making sure you get your daily requirement of vitamin C has been shown to help keep eyes healthy by providing increased protection against UV light damage.

Eating just one serving of Brussels sprouts per day would ensure you are getting enough of this important nutrient. Another antioxidant in Brussels sprouts, zeaxanthin, filters out harmful blue light rays and is thought to play a protective role in eye health and possibly ward off damage from macular degeneration.

A higher intake of all fruits and vegetables (3 or more servings per day) has also been shown to decrease the risk of and progression of age-related macular degeneration.

Looking younger: The antioxidant vitamin C, when eaten in its natural form (in fresh produce as opposed to supplement form) or applied topically, can help to fight skin damage caused by the sun and pollution, reduce wrinkles and improve overall skin texture. Vitamin C plays a vital role in the formation of collagen, the main support system of skin. You may automatically reach for citrus fruits when you think of vitamin C, but Brussels sprouts provide a whopping 75 milligrams per cup, over 100% of your daily need. Vitamin A is also crucial for healthy looking skin, which Brussels sprouts also provide.

Source

Suggested Varieties

(Amaranthus caudatus 'Love, Lies, Bleeding')

$1.00 - $2.00

Love, Lies, Bleeding Amaranth is a heirloom annual leaf vegetable that is native to South America, but can be commonly found growing in gardens throughout the United States. At maturity, this plant reaches the height of 2-4' and features erect, deep red stems, 6” oval, light green leaves and 12” bright red, drooping tassels. This plant can be grown in containers or hanging baskets, attracts bees and butterflies, tolerates drought, is used to make dye, self sows, is both edible and medicinal, and is great as a cut flower!

(Brassica oleracea 'Long Island Improved')

Soil Preparation

Start Indoors

Transplant Outdoors

Start Outdoors

Harvesting

Storage

Companion Planting

Problems

Cabbageworms

Cabbage Loopers

Flea Beetles

Caterpillars

Thrips

Slugs

Aphids

Nutrition

The Health Benefits of Brussels Sprouts

Suggested Varieties

(Amaranthus caudatus 'Love, Lies, Bleeding')

(Amaranthus cruentus 'Red Garnet')

(Melissa officinalis ‘Lemon Balm’)

(Beta vulgaris 'Detroit Dark Red')

(Monarda fistulosa ‘Wild’)

(Brassica oleracea 'Early Jersey Wakefield')

(Carum carvi ‘Caraway')

(Daucus carota 'Chantenay Red Cored')

(Daucus carota 'Cosmic Purple')

(Daucus carota 'Danvers')

(Daucus carota 'Rainbow Blend')

(Daucus carota 'Scarlet Nantes')

(Daucus carota 'Tendersweet')

(Brassica oleracea 'Snowball Y Improved')

(Apium graveolens 'Tendercrisp')

(Apium graveolens 'Utah Tall 52/70')

(Matricaria chamomilla ‘Common German')

(Chamaemelum nobile ‘Roman')

(Allium tuberosum ‘Garlic')

(Allium schoenoprasum ‘Onion')

(Coriandrum sativum ‘Leisure')

(Zea mays 'Country Gentleman')

(Zea mays 'Golden Bantam')

(Zea mays 'Shaman's Blue')

(Cosmos sulphureus ‘Bright Lights’)

(Cosmos bipinnatus ‘Candy Stripe’)

(Cosmos bipinnatus ‘Radiance’)

(Cucumis sativus 'Lemon')

(Cucumis sativus 'Marketmore 76')

(Melothria scabra 'Mexican Sour Gherkin')

(Cucumis sativus 'National Pickling')

(Cucumis sativus 'Straight Eight')

(Cucumis sativus 'Sumter')

(Cucumis sativus 'Wisconsin SMR 58')

(Anethum graveolens ‘Dukat')

(Foeniculum vulgare ‘Florence')

(Hyssopus officinalis ‘Hyssop')

(Tagetes erecta ‘Naughty Marietta’)

(Tagetes erecta ‘Sparky Mix’)

(Tagetes Erecta ‘Kilimanjaro White’)

(Mentha Pulegium ‘European’)

(Mentha spicata ‘Spear’)

(Tropaeolum minus ‘Empress of India’)

(Tropaeolum minus ‘Jewel Mix’)

(Allium fistulosum 'Evergreen White Bunching')

(Allium cepa 'Ruby Red')

(Allium cepa 'Sweet Spanish White')

(Allium cepa 'Sweet Spanish Yellow')

(Petroselinum crispum 'Italian Giant')

(Penstemon strictus ‘Rocky Mountain’)

(Limnanthes douglasii ‘Poached Egg Plant’)

(Raphanus sativus 'Early Scarlet Globe')

(Raphanus sativus 'German Giant')

(Raphanus sativus 'Watermelon')

(Raphanus sativus 'White Spear Sprouting')

(Salvia rosmarinus 'Rosemary')

(Salvia farinacea 'Blue')

(Salvia officinalis 'Broadleaf')

(Salvia officinalis 'Kitchen')

(Salvia Pratensis 'Meadow')

(Salvia coccinea 'Scarlet')