(Cucumis sativus 'Lemon')
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Lemon Cucumber is a heirloom, tender, warm weather annual vegetable that is native to India, but was introduced into the United States by Samuel Wilson in 1894. At maturity, this plant reaches the height of 3-4' and features 2-4” round, yellow cucumbers that bare black spines. This plant can be grown in a container, attracts bees, butterflies, earwigs, pollinating moths, and predatory wasps, deters cucumber beetles, repels roaches, is rabbit safe, is used to make cosmetic cleansers, and is both edible and medicinal!
Family: Cucurbitaceae
Genus: Cucumis
Species: sativus
Variety: Lemon Cucumber
Also Known As: Lemon Apple
Native to: Assam, Bangladesh, China South-Central, China Southeast, East Himalaya, Myanmar, Nepal, Thailand, West Himalaya.
Introduced into: Alabama, Albania, Andaman Is., Arizona, Arkansas, Austria, Bahamas, Bolivia, Cayman Is., Colombia, Costa Rica, Cuba, Czechoslovakia, Dominican Republic, Ecuador, Florida, Georgia, Gulf of Guinea Is., Haiti, Illinois, India, Jamaica, Kansas, Kazakhstan, Kentucky, Korea, Laos, Leeward Is., Louisiana, Massachusetts, Michigan, Mississippi, Missouri, New Caledonia, New York, Nicaragua, Nicobar Is., North Carolina, North Caucasus, Ohio, Oman, Ontario, Pakistan, Pennsylvania, Pitcairn Is., Puerto Rico, South Carolina, Sri Lanka, Tadzhikistan, Trinidad-Tobago, Turkmenistan, Utah, Uzbekistan, Venezuela, Vietnam, Virginia, Windward Is., Zaïre.
Grown as: Annual
Maturity: 65-75 days
Growing Habit: Vine
Hardiness: Tender. Cucumber can't stand any frost at all.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Summer
Growing Season: Short, Long
Growing Conditions: Warm, Hot. Cucumbers are native to the tropics and absolutely must have warm soil (70˚ F minimum) for good germination and growth. Consequently they are among the last crops to be planted out in spring. Most varieties fruit better in short days, so they tend to be more productive later in the summer.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 60°F - 90°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 60°F. Cucumbers take 2 weeks to germinate at 60 degrees, but only 3 days at 85 degrees.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Warm, Hot). Needs full sun.
Water: High. Cucumbers are mainly composed of water and need a constant and abundant supply of it for best growth. The best way to water Cucumbers is with a drip system or soaker hose, as this keeps the leaves dry and so reduces the chance of disease problems. If you must get the leaves wet, water in the morning, or early evening, so they have a chance to dry out quickly. You don't want the leaves to stay wet all night. Be careful not to overwater germinating seeds or they may rot. It's best to soak the ground or the potting soil heavily when first planting, then avoid watering again if possible until seedlings emerge. Cucumber seeds emerge in 5+ days; very lightly water ground or potting soil around day 3 or 4 to keep soil from crusting so that seeds can emerge more easily.
Feeder: Heavy. Cucumber grows fast and produces a lot of foliage, so its no surprise that it is a fairly hungry plant and likes fertile soil.
Suitability: Needs lots of space
Small Gardens?: No
Containers?: Yes. Cucumbers grow quite well in containers and several varieties have been produced specifically for this. They will be more productive in larger containers (at least 12" in diameter). In order to prevent root rot, it is important that your container has drainage holes. Line the bottom of your container with weed cloth or newspaper and then cover with a handful of small rocks. Fill the remainder with a mixture of peat moss, compost and potting soil. Cucumbers need a minimum of 6 hours of sunlight per day. In extremely hot climates, it is best to provide partial shade and keep your container away from direct sunlight. Cucumbers need lots of water, and they prefer moist soil.
Attracts beneficial insects?: Yes
Maintenance: Medium
Forage: Rabbits
Height: 12-18"
Spacing: 24-36"
Sow Depth: 1/2-2"
Produces: 2-4” round, yellow cucumbers that bare black spines.
USDA Hardiness Zone: 3-14
Genus: Cucumis
Species: sativus
Variety: Lemon Cucumber
Also Known As: Lemon Apple
Native to: Assam, Bangladesh, China South-Central, China Southeast, East Himalaya, Myanmar, Nepal, Thailand, West Himalaya.
Introduced into: Alabama, Albania, Andaman Is., Arizona, Arkansas, Austria, Bahamas, Bolivia, Cayman Is., Colombia, Costa Rica, Cuba, Czechoslovakia, Dominican Republic, Ecuador, Florida, Georgia, Gulf of Guinea Is., Haiti, Illinois, India, Jamaica, Kansas, Kazakhstan, Kentucky, Korea, Laos, Leeward Is., Louisiana, Massachusetts, Michigan, Mississippi, Missouri, New Caledonia, New York, Nicaragua, Nicobar Is., North Carolina, North Caucasus, Ohio, Oman, Ontario, Pakistan, Pennsylvania, Pitcairn Is., Puerto Rico, South Carolina, Sri Lanka, Tadzhikistan, Trinidad-Tobago, Turkmenistan, Utah, Uzbekistan, Venezuela, Vietnam, Virginia, Windward Is., Zaïre.
Grown as: Annual
Maturity: 65-75 days
Growing Habit: Vine
Hardiness: Tender. Cucumber can't stand any frost at all.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Summer
Growing Season: Short, Long
Growing Conditions: Warm, Hot. Cucumbers are native to the tropics and absolutely must have warm soil (70˚ F minimum) for good germination and growth. Consequently they are among the last crops to be planted out in spring. Most varieties fruit better in short days, so they tend to be more productive later in the summer.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 60°F - 90°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 60°F. Cucumbers take 2 weeks to germinate at 60 degrees, but only 3 days at 85 degrees.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Warm, Hot). Needs full sun.
Water: High. Cucumbers are mainly composed of water and need a constant and abundant supply of it for best growth. The best way to water Cucumbers is with a drip system or soaker hose, as this keeps the leaves dry and so reduces the chance of disease problems. If you must get the leaves wet, water in the morning, or early evening, so they have a chance to dry out quickly. You don't want the leaves to stay wet all night. Be careful not to overwater germinating seeds or they may rot. It's best to soak the ground or the potting soil heavily when first planting, then avoid watering again if possible until seedlings emerge. Cucumber seeds emerge in 5+ days; very lightly water ground or potting soil around day 3 or 4 to keep soil from crusting so that seeds can emerge more easily.
Feeder: Heavy. Cucumber grows fast and produces a lot of foliage, so its no surprise that it is a fairly hungry plant and likes fertile soil.
Suitability: Needs lots of space
Small Gardens?: No
Containers?: Yes. Cucumbers grow quite well in containers and several varieties have been produced specifically for this. They will be more productive in larger containers (at least 12" in diameter). In order to prevent root rot, it is important that your container has drainage holes. Line the bottom of your container with weed cloth or newspaper and then cover with a handful of small rocks. Fill the remainder with a mixture of peat moss, compost and potting soil. Cucumbers need a minimum of 6 hours of sunlight per day. In extremely hot climates, it is best to provide partial shade and keep your container away from direct sunlight. Cucumbers need lots of water, and they prefer moist soil.
Attracts beneficial insects?: Yes
Maintenance: Medium
Forage: Rabbits
Height: 12-18"
Spacing: 24-36"
Sow Depth: 1/2-2"
Produces: 2-4” round, yellow cucumbers that bare black spines.
USDA Hardiness Zone: 3-14
Soil Preparation
Soil Preference:
Soil pH: 6.0-7.0, Ideal 6.4-6.6. Cucumbers grow rapidly once established and to sustain their high level of growth they need a rich soil. It should be loose, moisture-retentive and well-drained, with lots of organic matter. Raised beds are good for Cucumbers, because they help the soil warm up quickly and provide good drainage.
Soil Preparation:
Compost (Nitrogen), 4 cups per plant, in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Mix your compost into the soil from the planting hole to supply nutrients. Return the compost-enriched soil to the hole when planting.
Lime (Calcium), 5 pounds per 100 sq. ft., in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Cucumbers don't like acid soil so add lime if necessary. The amount will depend upon your soil pH.
Standard Mix, 1 cup per plant, in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Standard Mix should be mixed into the soil in the planting hole to supply any additional nutrients required by the plants. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Soil pH: 6.0-7.0, Ideal 6.4-6.6. Cucumbers grow rapidly once established and to sustain their high level of growth they need a rich soil. It should be loose, moisture-retentive and well-drained, with lots of organic matter. Raised beds are good for Cucumbers, because they help the soil warm up quickly and provide good drainage.
Soil Preparation:
Compost (Nitrogen), 4 cups per plant, in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Mix your compost into the soil from the planting hole to supply nutrients. Return the compost-enriched soil to the hole when planting.
Lime (Calcium), 5 pounds per 100 sq. ft., in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Cucumbers don't like acid soil so add lime if necessary. The amount will depend upon your soil pH.
Standard Mix, 1 cup per plant, in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Standard Mix should be mixed into the soil in the planting hole to supply any additional nutrients required by the plants. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
- 4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
- 2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
- 2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
- 1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
- 1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Start Indoors
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 2.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cold soil and up to 2" deep in warm soil.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 105°F, optimal 70°F to 85°F, optimal 86°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 8 to 9 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 0-2 weeks after last frost date. Early Cucumbers are usually started indoors, because the soil outside may not be warm enough for good germination (even though the air may be warm enough for their growth). You can hasten soil warming with a black plastic mulch. Cucumbers dislike transplanting, so are usually started in individual 3˝ or 4˝ containers, 2 seeds to a pot (later thinned to the best one). Don’t use smaller containers, as the seedlings grow so quickly you will soon have to re-pot them. Be careful not to overwater germinating seeds or they may rot. It's best to soak the ground or the potting soil heavily when first planting, then avoid watering again if possible until seedlings emerge. (For seeds in potting soil, keep them warm but out of direct sunlight so that they don't dry out so fast.) Cucumber seeds emerge in 5+ days; very lightly water ground or potting soil around day 3 or 4 to keep soil from crusting so that seeds can emerge more easily.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 105°F, optimal 70°F to 85°F, optimal 86°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 8 to 9 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 0-2 weeks after last frost date. Early Cucumbers are usually started indoors, because the soil outside may not be warm enough for good germination (even though the air may be warm enough for their growth). You can hasten soil warming with a black plastic mulch. Cucumbers dislike transplanting, so are usually started in individual 3˝ or 4˝ containers, 2 seeds to a pot (later thinned to the best one). Don’t use smaller containers, as the seedlings grow so quickly you will soon have to re-pot them. Be careful not to overwater germinating seeds or they may rot. It's best to soak the ground or the potting soil heavily when first planting, then avoid watering again if possible until seedlings emerge. (For seeds in potting soil, keep them warm but out of direct sunlight so that they don't dry out so fast.) Cucumber seeds emerge in 5+ days; very lightly water ground or potting soil around day 3 or 4 to keep soil from crusting so that seeds can emerge more easily.
Transplant Outdoors
3-4 weeks after last frost date:
1. Plant out the seedlings up to their first true leaves and water immediately. If the weather isn’t warm, you might want to cover them with cloches.
Warm, Hot: Cucumbers are native to the tropics and absolutely must have warm soil (70˚ F minimum) for good germination and growth. Consequently they are among the last crops to be planted out in spring. Most varieties fruit better in short days, so they tend to be more productive later in the summer.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Cucumbers take 2 weeks to germinate at 60 degrees, but only 3 days at 85 degrees.
Spacing: 18-48", (3 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Intensive bed spacing varies from 15-24" apart, depending upon the soil and the variety. In intensive beds, it is probably best to sow cucumbers in 2 alternate rows down the middle of the bed. You can inter-plant a fast growing crop at the same time, to take advantage of the temporarily vacant space. Trellised plants can be grown 6 to 8" apart in the row, with 24-36" between the rows. Trellised cucumbers are the most efficient use of space in the garden, as long as they do not shade other plants that need sunlight. Cucumber hills are planted 36 to 48" apart. Cucumber hills are built by digging a hole 12" in diameter and 12" deep. Half fill the hole with compost and then return the soil to the hole, leaving a slightly raised mound. Several seeds are sown on top of the mound, and then thinned to the best 2 or 3 plants. The hills are spaced about 3-4' apart, to give the plants room to sprawl.
Support: At planting. Cucumbers take up a considerable amount of space if left to sprawl randomly across the ground. Fortunately many varieties are good climbers and will happily use vertical space instead of ground space. Trellised plants may take up only one tenth of the bed space of unsupported ones. Trellising can increase yields by as much as 100%, because fewer fruits are lost to rot, disease or slugs and there is more light for photosynthesis. The fruits will also be straighter and cleaner. If building a trellis seems like a good idea, but too much work, you can also plant them along a wire fence. You can also use cages of 6" mesh steel reinforcing wire, 3' in diameter and 6' high. These can work well, though the plants may eventually outgrow them. These cages can even be covered with plastic to protect the plants from late frost. Many kinds of trellises have been used for supporting Cucumbers, including fencing wire, nylon netting and Bamboo canes. Be creative, but make sure it is strong enough to support the considerable weight of a fruiting crop. In very dry areas it is better to leave the plants close to the ground, rather than trellising them. They can then create their own little humid micro-climate and lose water less rapidly. If you are going to support your cucumbers, you should set it up before planting. This will minimize disturbance to the young plants.
1. Plant out the seedlings up to their first true leaves and water immediately. If the weather isn’t warm, you might want to cover them with cloches.
Warm, Hot: Cucumbers are native to the tropics and absolutely must have warm soil (70˚ F minimum) for good germination and growth. Consequently they are among the last crops to be planted out in spring. Most varieties fruit better in short days, so they tend to be more productive later in the summer.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Cucumbers take 2 weeks to germinate at 60 degrees, but only 3 days at 85 degrees.
Spacing: 18-48", (3 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Intensive bed spacing varies from 15-24" apart, depending upon the soil and the variety. In intensive beds, it is probably best to sow cucumbers in 2 alternate rows down the middle of the bed. You can inter-plant a fast growing crop at the same time, to take advantage of the temporarily vacant space. Trellised plants can be grown 6 to 8" apart in the row, with 24-36" between the rows. Trellised cucumbers are the most efficient use of space in the garden, as long as they do not shade other plants that need sunlight. Cucumber hills are planted 36 to 48" apart. Cucumber hills are built by digging a hole 12" in diameter and 12" deep. Half fill the hole with compost and then return the soil to the hole, leaving a slightly raised mound. Several seeds are sown on top of the mound, and then thinned to the best 2 or 3 plants. The hills are spaced about 3-4' apart, to give the plants room to sprawl.
Support: At planting. Cucumbers take up a considerable amount of space if left to sprawl randomly across the ground. Fortunately many varieties are good climbers and will happily use vertical space instead of ground space. Trellised plants may take up only one tenth of the bed space of unsupported ones. Trellising can increase yields by as much as 100%, because fewer fruits are lost to rot, disease or slugs and there is more light for photosynthesis. The fruits will also be straighter and cleaner. If building a trellis seems like a good idea, but too much work, you can also plant them along a wire fence. You can also use cages of 6" mesh steel reinforcing wire, 3' in diameter and 6' high. These can work well, though the plants may eventually outgrow them. These cages can even be covered with plastic to protect the plants from late frost. Many kinds of trellises have been used for supporting Cucumbers, including fencing wire, nylon netting and Bamboo canes. Be creative, but make sure it is strong enough to support the considerable weight of a fruiting crop. In very dry areas it is better to leave the plants close to the ground, rather than trellising them. They can then create their own little humid micro-climate and lose water less rapidly. If you are going to support your cucumbers, you should set it up before planting. This will minimize disturbance to the young plants.
Start Outdoors
When Warm, Hot: Cucumbers are native to the tropics and absolutely must have warm soil (70˚ F minimum) for good germination and growth. Consequently they are among the last crops to be planted out in spring. Most varieties fruit better in short days, so they tend to be more productive later in the summer.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Cucumbers take 2 weeks to germinate at 60 degrees, but only 3 days at 85 degrees.
Seed Depth: 0.5"-2.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cold soil and up to 2" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 18-48", (3 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Intensive bed spacing varies from 15-24" apart, depending upon the soil and the variety. In intensive beds, it is probably best to sow cucumbers in 2 alternate rows down the middle of the bed. You can inter-plant a fast growing crop at the same time, to take advantage of the temporarily vacant space. Trellised plants can be grown 6 to 8" apart in the row, with 24-36" between the rows. Trellised cucumbers are the most efficient use of space in the garden, as long as they do not shade other plants that need sunlight. Cucumber hills are planted 36-48" apart. Cucumber hills are built by digging a hole 12" in diameter and 12" deep. Half fill the hole with compost and then return the soil to the hole, leaving a slightly raised mound. Several seeds are sown on top of the mound, and then thinned to the best 2 or 3 plants. The hills are spaced about 3-4' feet apart, to give the plants room to sprawl.
Summer Crop: 3-4 weeks after last frost date. Once the soil has warmed up it is simpler to sow cucumbers directly in the soil. In good conditions they grow very quickly and will often catch up with transplants, even though they were started several weeks later.
1. You might want to soak the seed overnight before planting to hasten germination. You can even pre-germinate them (this is easy because they are so large).
2. Plant the seeds 2˝ to 3˝ deep.
Be careful not to overwater germinating seeds or they may rot. It's best to soak the ground or the potting soil heavily when first planting, then avoid watering again if possible until seedlings emerge. (For seeds in potting soil, keep them warm but out of direct sunlight so that they don't dry out so fast.) Cucumber seeds emerge in 5+ days; very lightly water ground or potting soil around day 3 or 4 to keep soil from crusting so that seeds can emerge more easily.
Support: At planting. Cucumbers take up a considerable amount of space if left to sprawl randomly across the ground. Fortunately many varieties are good climbers and will happily use vertical space instead of ground space. Trellised plants may take up only one tenth of the bed space of unsupported ones. Trellising can increase yields by as much as 100%, because fewer fruits are lost to rot, disease or slugs and there is more light for photosynthesis. The fruits will also be straighter and cleaner. If building a trellis seems like a good idea, but too much work, you can also plant them along a wire fence. You can also use cages of 6" mesh steel reinforcing wire, 3 feet in diameter and 6 feet high. These can work well, though the plants may eventually outgrow them. These cages can even be covered with plastic to protect the plants from late frost. Many kinds of trellises have been used for supporting Cucumbers, including fencing wire, nylon netting and Bamboo canes. Be creative, but make sure it is strong enough to support the considerable weight of a fruiting crop. In very dry areas it is better to leave the plants close to the ground, rather than trellising them. They can then create their own little humid micro-climate and lose water less rapidly. If you are going to support your cucumbers, you should set it up before planting. This will minimize disturbance to the young plants.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. Cucumbers take 2 weeks to germinate at 60 degrees, but only 3 days at 85 degrees.
Seed Depth: 0.5"-2.0". Sow the seed 1/2" deep in cold soil and up to 2" deep in warm soil.
Spacing: 18-48", (3 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Intensive bed spacing varies from 15-24" apart, depending upon the soil and the variety. In intensive beds, it is probably best to sow cucumbers in 2 alternate rows down the middle of the bed. You can inter-plant a fast growing crop at the same time, to take advantage of the temporarily vacant space. Trellised plants can be grown 6 to 8" apart in the row, with 24-36" between the rows. Trellised cucumbers are the most efficient use of space in the garden, as long as they do not shade other plants that need sunlight. Cucumber hills are planted 36-48" apart. Cucumber hills are built by digging a hole 12" in diameter and 12" deep. Half fill the hole with compost and then return the soil to the hole, leaving a slightly raised mound. Several seeds are sown on top of the mound, and then thinned to the best 2 or 3 plants. The hills are spaced about 3-4' feet apart, to give the plants room to sprawl.
Summer Crop: 3-4 weeks after last frost date. Once the soil has warmed up it is simpler to sow cucumbers directly in the soil. In good conditions they grow very quickly and will often catch up with transplants, even though they were started several weeks later.
1. You might want to soak the seed overnight before planting to hasten germination. You can even pre-germinate them (this is easy because they are so large).
2. Plant the seeds 2˝ to 3˝ deep.
Be careful not to overwater germinating seeds or they may rot. It's best to soak the ground or the potting soil heavily when first planting, then avoid watering again if possible until seedlings emerge. (For seeds in potting soil, keep them warm but out of direct sunlight so that they don't dry out so fast.) Cucumber seeds emerge in 5+ days; very lightly water ground or potting soil around day 3 or 4 to keep soil from crusting so that seeds can emerge more easily.
Support: At planting. Cucumbers take up a considerable amount of space if left to sprawl randomly across the ground. Fortunately many varieties are good climbers and will happily use vertical space instead of ground space. Trellised plants may take up only one tenth of the bed space of unsupported ones. Trellising can increase yields by as much as 100%, because fewer fruits are lost to rot, disease or slugs and there is more light for photosynthesis. The fruits will also be straighter and cleaner. If building a trellis seems like a good idea, but too much work, you can also plant them along a wire fence. You can also use cages of 6" mesh steel reinforcing wire, 3 feet in diameter and 6 feet high. These can work well, though the plants may eventually outgrow them. These cages can even be covered with plastic to protect the plants from late frost. Many kinds of trellises have been used for supporting Cucumbers, including fencing wire, nylon netting and Bamboo canes. Be creative, but make sure it is strong enough to support the considerable weight of a fruiting crop. In very dry areas it is better to leave the plants close to the ground, rather than trellising them. They can then create their own little humid micro-climate and lose water less rapidly. If you are going to support your cucumbers, you should set it up before planting. This will minimize disturbance to the young plants.
If you give them everything they need, growing Cucumbers is fairly straightforward.
Water Needs: High. Watering, regularly. Water, 3 quart(s), regularly, 2 times a week Keep plants well watered. When the plants start producing, you should keep the soil evenly moist (but not wet) at all times or else your fruits will be bitter in flavor or misshapen. Ideally the water should be lukewarm (70˚ F), so it doesn’t shock the plants, or cool the soil significantly. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy.
Side Dressing, to warm soil: Mulch, 2 inches, to warm soil, 1 time. Mulch is beneficial to conserve moisture and keep weeds under control. The soil must be warm before you put this on though, as mulch insulates the soil and prevents it from warming up.
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Compost tea, 1 cups per plant, after transplanting, 1 time. When the seedlings have recovered from transplanting, give each plant 1 cup of diluted compost tea (1 part compost tea : 2 parts water).
Protecting, after transplanting: Row covers, 1 layer, after transplanting, 1 time. If the weather is cool, cover the plants with row covers for the first few weeks.
Side Dressing, when 18" tall: Compost tea, 2 cups per plant, when 18" tall, 1 time. If your soil isn’t very fertile, give them another feed when they are about 18˝ high. Give each plant 2 cups of diluted compost tea (1 part compost tea : 2 parts water).
Pruning, before fruit set: before fruit set, 3 times. Some people pinch out the growing tips of the young plants, to encourage branching. You might also pinch out the first few lateral shoots to encourage the plant to grow larger before it starts producing fruit.
Support: At planting. Cucumbers take up a considerable amount of space if left to sprawl randomly across the ground. Fortunately many varieties are good climbers and will happily use vertical space instead of ground space. Trellised plants may take up only one tenth of the bed space of unsupported ones. Trellising can increase yields by as much as 100%, because fewer fruits are lost to rot, disease or slugs and there is more light for photosynthesis. The fruits will also be straighter and cleaner. If building a trellis seems like a good idea, but too much work, you can also plant them along a wire fence. You can also use cages of 6" mesh steel reinforcing wire, 3 feet in diameter and 6 feet high. These can work well, though the plants may eventually outgrow them. These cages can even be covered with plastic to protect the plants from late frost. Many kinds of trellises have been used for supporting Cucumbers, including fencing wire, nylon netting and Bamboo canes. Be creative, but make sure it is strong enough to support the considerable weight of a fruiting crop. In very dry areas it is better to leave the plants close to the ground, rather than trellising them. They can then create their own little humid micro-climate and lose water less rapidly. If you are going to support your cucumbers, you should set it up before planting. This will minimize disturbance to the young plants.
Water Needs: High. Watering, regularly. Water, 3 quart(s), regularly, 2 times a week Keep plants well watered. When the plants start producing, you should keep the soil evenly moist (but not wet) at all times or else your fruits will be bitter in flavor or misshapen. Ideally the water should be lukewarm (70˚ F), so it doesn’t shock the plants, or cool the soil significantly. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy.
Side Dressing, to warm soil: Mulch, 2 inches, to warm soil, 1 time. Mulch is beneficial to conserve moisture and keep weeds under control. The soil must be warm before you put this on though, as mulch insulates the soil and prevents it from warming up.
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Compost tea, 1 cups per plant, after transplanting, 1 time. When the seedlings have recovered from transplanting, give each plant 1 cup of diluted compost tea (1 part compost tea : 2 parts water).
Protecting, after transplanting: Row covers, 1 layer, after transplanting, 1 time. If the weather is cool, cover the plants with row covers for the first few weeks.
Side Dressing, when 18" tall: Compost tea, 2 cups per plant, when 18" tall, 1 time. If your soil isn’t very fertile, give them another feed when they are about 18˝ high. Give each plant 2 cups of diluted compost tea (1 part compost tea : 2 parts water).
Pruning, before fruit set: before fruit set, 3 times. Some people pinch out the growing tips of the young plants, to encourage branching. You might also pinch out the first few lateral shoots to encourage the plant to grow larger before it starts producing fruit.
Support: At planting. Cucumbers take up a considerable amount of space if left to sprawl randomly across the ground. Fortunately many varieties are good climbers and will happily use vertical space instead of ground space. Trellised plants may take up only one tenth of the bed space of unsupported ones. Trellising can increase yields by as much as 100%, because fewer fruits are lost to rot, disease or slugs and there is more light for photosynthesis. The fruits will also be straighter and cleaner. If building a trellis seems like a good idea, but too much work, you can also plant them along a wire fence. You can also use cages of 6" mesh steel reinforcing wire, 3 feet in diameter and 6 feet high. These can work well, though the plants may eventually outgrow them. These cages can even be covered with plastic to protect the plants from late frost. Many kinds of trellises have been used for supporting Cucumbers, including fencing wire, nylon netting and Bamboo canes. Be creative, but make sure it is strong enough to support the considerable weight of a fruiting crop. In very dry areas it is better to leave the plants close to the ground, rather than trellising them. They can then create their own little humid micro-climate and lose water less rapidly. If you are going to support your cucumbers, you should set it up before planting. This will minimize disturbance to the young plants.
Harvesting
Ripening: The fruit are ready for harvest 15 to 18 days after pollination. Harvest while small to medium-sized for best flavor. Keep harvesting fruit, even if misshapen, to keep vines productive.
Storage
Cucumbers can be pickled and stored in jars in the pantry.
Storage Req: Canning
Storage Temp: 50-70°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Cucumbers should be stored in a cool place (40 to 50˚ F), but not as cold as a refrigerator. They don’t keep for much more than a week, which is probably why pickling became popular.
Storage Req: Cool
Storage Temp: 40-50°F
Storage Length: 1-7 days
Storage Req: Canning
Storage Temp: 50-70°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Cucumbers should be stored in a cool place (40 to 50˚ F), but not as cold as a refrigerator. They don’t keep for much more than a week, which is probably why pickling became popular.
Storage Req: Cool
Storage Temp: 40-50°F
Storage Length: 1-7 days
Cucumbers are cross-pollinated by bees, and so must either be isolated by at least 1000 yards or hand pollinated. Hand pollination is fairly straightforward because the flowers are so large. It is done in the same way as for Squash flowers. Make sure you select the best and most typical plants for producing seed.
If you are saving seed, the fruit must be allowed to mature properly. It will turn yellow and start to wither when fully ripe. Separate the seeds from the pulp and ferment them for a couple of days in water. Finally, separate the cleaned seeds from the fermented mush and dry them thoroughly. Ideally they should have a moisture content of around 6% for storage. Be aware that a number of diseases can be seed borne.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-5 years
Germination Percentage: 80%
If you are saving seed, the fruit must be allowed to mature properly. It will turn yellow and start to wither when fully ripe. Separate the seeds from the pulp and ferment them for a couple of days in water. Finally, separate the cleaned seeds from the fermented mush and dry them thoroughly. Ideally they should have a moisture content of around 6% for storage. Be aware that a number of diseases can be seed borne.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-5 years
Germination Percentage: 80%
Culinary
Taste:
Tender skin with firm crispness, excellent for salad or dipping.
Culinary Use:
Cucumbers are primarily used in salads or eaten on their own. They may also be paired with yogurt, made into tea sandwiches, used to infuse water or made into soup. Depending on the type of skin some cucumbers may need to be peeled. Cucumbers give off a lot of water so if using in a salad it's best to add dressing at the last minute. Cucumbers make a wonderful salad all by themselves, or eaten raw.
Fruit: raw or cooked. The cucumber is a common ingredient of salads, being valued mainly for its crisp texture and juiciness. However, it is very watery, with little flavor and is not very nutritious. Many people find the fruit to be indigestible, this is due to the high cellulose content. The fruit varies widely in size between cultivars but can be up to 1 meter long. It can be available from mid summer until early autumn from outdoor grown plants.
Seed: raw. Rich in oil with a nutty flavor but very fiddly to use because the seed is small and covered with a fibrous coat.
Young leaves and stems: cooked as a potherb.
Oil from seed: said to resemble olive oil, it is used in salad dressings and French cooking. The oil contains 22.3% linoleic acid, 58.5% oleic acid, 6.8% palmitic acid and 3.7% stearic acid.
Tender skin with firm crispness, excellent for salad or dipping.
Culinary Use:
Cucumbers are primarily used in salads or eaten on their own. They may also be paired with yogurt, made into tea sandwiches, used to infuse water or made into soup. Depending on the type of skin some cucumbers may need to be peeled. Cucumbers give off a lot of water so if using in a salad it's best to add dressing at the last minute. Cucumbers make a wonderful salad all by themselves, or eaten raw.
Fruit: raw or cooked. The cucumber is a common ingredient of salads, being valued mainly for its crisp texture and juiciness. However, it is very watery, with little flavor and is not very nutritious. Many people find the fruit to be indigestible, this is due to the high cellulose content. The fruit varies widely in size between cultivars but can be up to 1 meter long. It can be available from mid summer until early autumn from outdoor grown plants.
Seed: raw. Rich in oil with a nutty flavor but very fiddly to use because the seed is small and covered with a fibrous coat.
Young leaves and stems: cooked as a potherb.
Oil from seed: said to resemble olive oil, it is used in salad dressings and French cooking. The oil contains 22.3% linoleic acid, 58.5% oleic acid, 6.8% palmitic acid and 3.7% stearic acid.
Medicinal
The leaf juice is emetic, it is used to treat dyspepsia in children. The fruit is depurative, diuretic, emollient, purgative and resolvent. The fresh fruit is used internally in the treatment of blemished skin, heat rash etc, whilst it is used externally as a poultice for burns, sores etc and also as a cosmetic for softening the skin. The seed is cooling, diuretic, tonic and vermifuge. 25 - 50 grams of the thoroughly ground seeds (including the seed coat) is a standard dose as a vermifuge and usually needs to be followed by a purgative to expel the worms from the body. A decoction of the root is diuretic.
Project Purity Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting
Cucumbers are great to plant with corn and beans. The three plants like the same conditions: warmth, rich soil and plenty of moisture. Let the cucumbers grow up and over your corn plants. Cukes also do well with peas, beets, radishes and carrots. Radishes are a good deterrent against cucumber beetles. Dill planted with cucumbers helps by attracting beneficial predators. Nasturtium improves growth and flavor.
Keep sage, potatoes and rue away from cucumbers. It is said that cucumbers don't do well planted next to tomatoes. We have never had a problem with planting them next to each other.
Keep sage, potatoes and rue away from cucumbers. It is said that cucumbers don't do well planted next to tomatoes. We have never had a problem with planting them next to each other.
Problems
No serious insect or disease problems. Watch for cucumber beetles which feed on the foliage and transmit diseases. Aphids and spider mites may be troublesome. Wilt, downy mildew, powdery mildew, anthracnose, stem blight, scab and leaf spot may occur. Mosaic virus is a potential problem in some areas.
Cucumber Beetles
Beneficial insects such as Braconid Wasps, Ground Beetles, Soldier Beetles, Spiders, and Tachinid flies all prey on Cucumber Beetles.
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Aphids
Beneficial insects such as Ladybugs, Collops Beetle, Soldier Beetles, Long-legged Flies, Hover Flies, Predaceous Midges, Damsel Bugs, Big-eyed Bugs, Minute Pirate Bugs, Lacewings, Parasitic Wasps, Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.
Ladybeetles, Ladybugs, or Ladybird Beetles: Ladybeetles are probably the most well-known of beetles that eat aphids. There are many species, and both the adults and larvae eat aphids. Convergent lady beetles and the seven-spotted ladybeetles are abundant species in the environment. Eggs are found in clutches, yellow and football shaped. Larvae have an alligator-like appearance, and are black with orange markings. Pupae are sedentary. Ladybeetles are commercially available but purchasing is not generally recommended since the adult stage tends to fly away once released. Introductions may be more effective in greenhouses and high tunnels. Diverse plantings can help recruit resident ladybeetles to an area.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two
abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow
(Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), \Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii),
Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata),
Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum),
Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida),
Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea),
Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white
sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two
abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow
(Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), \Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii),
Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata),
Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum),
Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida),
Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea),
Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white
sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
Spidermites
Beneficial insects such as minute pirate bugs, bigeyed bugs, and lacewing larvae all prey on Spidermites.
Minute Pirate Bugs: Prey on Spider mites, Cabbage looper, Insect eggs, Caterpillars, Aphids, and Thrips.
To attract Minute pirate bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-Eyed Bugs: Prey on Aphids, small Caterpillars and Caterpillar eggs, Flea beetles, Fleahoppers, Lygus bugs, Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Prey on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, Spider Mites, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-Leaf Yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne's Lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower
(Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), and Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
To attract Minute pirate bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-Eyed Bugs: Prey on Aphids, small Caterpillars and Caterpillar eggs, Flea beetles, Fleahoppers, Lygus bugs, Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Prey on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, Spider Mites, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-Leaf Yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne's Lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower
(Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), and Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Nutrition
Cucumbers contain potassium and antioxidants.
Health Benefits of Cucumber
Skin Care: Cucumber is rich in silica, which is an essential component that aids in developing strong and healthy connective tissues in the muscles, ligaments, tendons, cartilage, and bones. Doctors often recommend cucumber juice because of the silica content for a healthier and brighter skin. Cucumber’s high water content makes it naturally hydrating, and it is well known that moisture is the best friend to healthy skin, so why not acquire the hydration naturally! The extract of cucumbers is often used topically for treating various types of skin ailments like sunburn and swelling under the eyes. Ascorbic and caffeic acid are the two vital compounds in cucumbers that prevent water loss from the body. These are some of the reasons why cucumbers are applied topically for various skin problems. You will be quite surprised to know that this squash also promotes healthy hair growth and can treat skin ailments like psoriasis, eczema, and acne.
Prevent Constipation & Kidney Stones: Cucumbers are a perfect blend of both fiber and water. Therefore, they help to protect your body from constipation and kidney stones. Reports say that a majority of Americans prefer to have a cucumber rich salad regularly as it is a great way to increase the fiber intake. Cucumber is also a good source of vitamin C, silica, potassium, and magnesium; all of which have their own health benefits. These fruits have an extraordinary amount of water (about 96%) that is naturally purified, thus making the water content much higher in quality than ordinary water. Cucumber skin contains high levels of vitamin A, so you will gain more nutrition if you eat the entire thing.
Control Blood Pressure: The studies done at DASH (Dietary Approaches to Stop Hypertension) consisted of people consuming foods high in magnesium, potassium, and fiber. The results were clear; their blood pressure lowered to normal levels. The group eating a diet rich in these complexes along with the other foods on the diet like seafood, low-fat dairy items, lean meat, and poultry saw their blood pressure falling by 5.5 points (systolic) over 3.0 points (diastolic). Cucumber, therefore, regulates blood pressure and contributes to the proper structure of connective tissues in our body, including those in the muscles, bones, ligaments, cartilage, and tendons.
Manage Diabetes: Cucumbers have been used for diabetic patients for many years. They possess a hormone required by the beta cells during insulin production. The glycemic index (GI) of cucumbers is actually zero. The presence of carbohydrates and their result on the body is measured by the quantity of glycemic index (GI). Every food item contains essential nutrients in different percentages. The carbohydrates contribute to raising the glucose level, however, the ones present in the cucumber can be easily digested by diabetic patients. Thus, consumption of this cool fruit keeps the glucose level in check. Nowadays, most commercial stores have cucumber supplements as spiny sea cucumber extract powder, which is very effective in combating the effects of diabetes.
Maintain Overall Health: Cucumbers have excellent cleaning properties, and they actively remove accumulated waste and toxins from your body. These fruits are very good for optimizing urinary bladder, kidney, liver and pancreatic functions. Cucumber juice along with carrot juice is extremely effective for rheumatic conditions caused by excessive uric acid in the body. Drinking cucumber juice on a regular basis also helps cure gout and eczema. If you are having lung or stomach problems, be sure to add it to your diet. It also promotes muscle flexibility, while the magnesium content of cucumbers ensures proper blood circulation and relaxed nerves. Since cucumbers are rich in minerals, they even prevent splitting of the finger and toenails. Cucumbers often act as antioxidants when you consume them with barbecued and fried foods.
Other Benefits: Cucumber has high alkaline levels, thus regulating the body’s blood pH and neutralizing acidity. People with gastric issues should consume cucumbers frequently.
Cucumbers help normalize body temperature during summer. Cucumber juice is a diuretic, so it is able to prevent kidney stones too. It can also counter the effects of uric acid, which prevents inflammation from conditions like arthritis, asthma, and gout.
Prevent Constipation & Kidney Stones: Cucumbers are a perfect blend of both fiber and water. Therefore, they help to protect your body from constipation and kidney stones. Reports say that a majority of Americans prefer to have a cucumber rich salad regularly as it is a great way to increase the fiber intake. Cucumber is also a good source of vitamin C, silica, potassium, and magnesium; all of which have their own health benefits. These fruits have an extraordinary amount of water (about 96%) that is naturally purified, thus making the water content much higher in quality than ordinary water. Cucumber skin contains high levels of vitamin A, so you will gain more nutrition if you eat the entire thing.
Control Blood Pressure: The studies done at DASH (Dietary Approaches to Stop Hypertension) consisted of people consuming foods high in magnesium, potassium, and fiber. The results were clear; their blood pressure lowered to normal levels. The group eating a diet rich in these complexes along with the other foods on the diet like seafood, low-fat dairy items, lean meat, and poultry saw their blood pressure falling by 5.5 points (systolic) over 3.0 points (diastolic). Cucumber, therefore, regulates blood pressure and contributes to the proper structure of connective tissues in our body, including those in the muscles, bones, ligaments, cartilage, and tendons.
Manage Diabetes: Cucumbers have been used for diabetic patients for many years. They possess a hormone required by the beta cells during insulin production. The glycemic index (GI) of cucumbers is actually zero. The presence of carbohydrates and their result on the body is measured by the quantity of glycemic index (GI). Every food item contains essential nutrients in different percentages. The carbohydrates contribute to raising the glucose level, however, the ones present in the cucumber can be easily digested by diabetic patients. Thus, consumption of this cool fruit keeps the glucose level in check. Nowadays, most commercial stores have cucumber supplements as spiny sea cucumber extract powder, which is very effective in combating the effects of diabetes.
Maintain Overall Health: Cucumbers have excellent cleaning properties, and they actively remove accumulated waste and toxins from your body. These fruits are very good for optimizing urinary bladder, kidney, liver and pancreatic functions. Cucumber juice along with carrot juice is extremely effective for rheumatic conditions caused by excessive uric acid in the body. Drinking cucumber juice on a regular basis also helps cure gout and eczema. If you are having lung or stomach problems, be sure to add it to your diet. It also promotes muscle flexibility, while the magnesium content of cucumbers ensures proper blood circulation and relaxed nerves. Since cucumbers are rich in minerals, they even prevent splitting of the finger and toenails. Cucumbers often act as antioxidants when you consume them with barbecued and fried foods.
Other Benefits: Cucumber has high alkaline levels, thus regulating the body’s blood pH and neutralizing acidity. People with gastric issues should consume cucumbers frequently.
Cucumbers help normalize body temperature during summer. Cucumber juice is a diuretic, so it is able to prevent kidney stones too. It can also counter the effects of uric acid, which prevents inflammation from conditions like arthritis, asthma, and gout.
Cucumber skins have been shown to repel cockroaches in laboratory experiments. The fruit is applied to the skin as a cleansing cosmetic to soften and whiten it. The juice is used in many beauty products.