(Daucus carota 'Lunar White')
Lunar White Carrot is a hardy, cool weather annual vegetable that is native to Europe, but is commonly grown across the United States. At maturity, this plant reaches the height of 16” and features a 6-8" long, white, nearly coreless carrots. This plant can be grown in a container, attracts earwigs and tachinid flies, is rabbit safe, tolerates light frost, is used to flavor perfumes and make alcohol, and is both edible and medicinal.
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General Information
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Soil Preparation
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Start Outdoors
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Crop Care
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Harvesting & Storage
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Seed Saving
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Culinary & Medicinal
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Companion Planting
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Nutrition & Health Benefits
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Other Uses
Genus: Daucus
Species: carota
Variety: Lunar White Carrot
Native to: Afghanistan, Albania, Algeria, Austria, Azores, Baleares, Baltic States, Belarus, Belgium, Bulgaria, Canary Is., Cape Verde, Central European Rus, China South-Central, China Southeast, Corse, Cyprus, Czechoslovakia, Denmark, East Aegean Is., East European Russia, Eritrea, Ethiopia, France, Germany, Great Britain, Greece, Hungary, Iran, Iraq, Ireland, Italy, Kazakhstan, Kirgizstan, Kriti, Krym, Lebanon-Syria, Libya, Madeira, Morocco, Nepal, Netherlands, North Caucasus, Northwest European R, Norway, Pakistan, Palestine, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Sardegna, Sicilia, South European Russi, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Tadzhikistan, Transcaucasus, Tunisia, Turkey, Turkey-in-Europe, Turkmenistan, Ukraine, Uzbekistan, West Himalaya, Yugoslavia.
Introduced into: Alabama, Amsterdam-St.Paul Is, Andaman Is., Angola, Argentina Northeast, Argentina Northwest, Argentina South, Arizona, Arkansas, Bangladesh, Brazil South, British Columbia, California, Cape Provinces, Chile Central, Chile South, China North-Central, Colorado, Connecticut, Costa Rica, Cuba, Delaware, Desventurados Is., District of Columbia, Dominican Republic, Easter Is., Ecuador, El Salvador, Finland, Florida, Georgia, Guatemala, Hainan, Haiti, Idaho, Illinois, India, Indiana, Inner Mongolia, Iowa, Jamaica, Jawa, Kansas, Kentucky, Kermadec Is., Korea, Labrador, Leeward Is., Louisiana, Maine, Manchuria, Manitoba, Maryland, Massachusetts, Mauritius, Mexico Central, Mexico Northeast, Michigan, Minnesota, Mississippi, Missouri, Mongolia, Montana, Myanmar, Nebraska, Nevada, New Brunswick, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New Mexico, New York, New Zealand North, New Zealand South, Newfoundland, Nicobar Is., North Carolina, North Dakota, North European Russi, Northern Provinces, Nova Scotia, Ohio, Oklahoma, Ontario, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Peru, Prince Edward I., Puerto Rico, Qinghai, Québec, Rhode I., Rodrigues, Réunion, Saskatchewan, South Carolina, South Dakota, Sri Lanka, Sudan, Tennessee, Texas, Tibet, Trinidad-Tobago, Uruguay, Utah, Vermont, Vietnam, Virginia, Washington, West Siberia, West Virginia, Wisconsin, Wyoming, Xinjiang.
Ease of Growing: Easy
Grown as: Biennial
Days to Maturity: 65-65 days
Hardiness: Hardy. Carrots are fully hardy and in mild climates they will continue to grow right through the winter. They can be frost tolerant.
Crops: Spring, Fall.
Growing Season: Short
Growing Conditions: Cold, Cool, Warm. Carrots need full sun for best production, though they may do okay in part shade in hot climates. They also like a fairly warm soil.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 45°F - 75°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 45°F. Carrots germinate very slowly in cold soil, so it's best to allow the soil to warm up a little. It takes 50 days for them to germinate at 40 degrees, but only 17 days at 50 degrees.
Start Indoors: No
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Full Sun. Min. 6 hours daily (Cold, Cool, Warm). Carrots need full sun for best production, though they may do okay in part shade.
Water: Medium. Carrots need a steady and even supply of moisture for good growth. Too little water may result in excessively hairy roots (produced to search for water), or woody roots with marked rings. Too much water may cause the roots to split, encourage too much top growth or result in poorly flavored roots. Extreme fluctuations of soil moisture between dry and wet conditions may cause cracking of the roots.
Feeder: Light. Carrots are surprisingly light feeders considering the amount of food they produce.
Suitability: Tolerates light frost, Needs summer shade
Small Gardens?: Yes
Containers?: Yes. Though most carrot varieties don't do well in containers, some of the short or half long types can be grown in fairly deep containers. Choose a pot that has drainage holes in the bottom and is at least 12" deep and 18" wide. Fill with potting soil, water thoroughly, and allow to drain. Plant your carrots 1 1/2" - 3" apart so they have enough room to grow. Keep the soil moist and place in an area that has access to at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. Baby carrots will do better than other types of carrots in containers.
Attracts beneficial insects?: No
Forage: Rabbits. Greens are safe but limit amount of carrots due to high sugar content!
Maintenance: Low
Height: 16"
Sowing Depth: 1/4"
Spacing: 2-4"
Produces: 6-12" long, white, nearly coreless carrots.
USDA Hardiness Zone: 3-12
Garden Uses: Vegetable for vegetable gardens.
Soil pH: 6.0-7.5, Ideal 6.5-7.0. This is a crop where the soil can make a big difference. The ideal soil for growing carrots is a well aerated, sandy loam, free of stones, well drained, rich in humus and fairly neutral (they don't like acid soil). The most critical factor is porosity; a loose soil can increase the size of the roots by as much as 100%. They don't like heavy clay or compacted soils of any kind. A seedbed for Carrots should have a fairly fine tilth and no large stones or other debris.
Soil Preparation:
Standard Mix, 5 pounds per 100 sq. ft., in top 10" of soil, 1 time: A standard mix will supply any additional nutrients required and should be incorporated into the soil along with the compost. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting.
- 4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
- 2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
- 2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
- 1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
- 1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Compost (Nitrogen), 2" in top 10" of soil, 1 time: Carrots like a light soil, so the main task is to loosen it to a depth of 10˝ (minimum) and incorporate organic matter (compost or aged manure). Remove any large stones (these may cause forking) and other debris. If your soil is particularly heavy or compacted, the best solution is to double dig, incorporating lots of organic matter and then making raised beds. If this is too much work you could grow your carrots in narrow trenches filled with a special soil mix. If even this is too much, you could use a short stubby carrot variety. A simple way to ensure a loose soil for Carrots is to precede them with Potatoes. The soil will have been heavily amended and deeply dug and any organic matter will have aged nicely. They can also follow Brassicas, or any other crop that was heavily manured.
When outdoor temp: 45°F to 75°F, optimal temp 60°F to 70°F
When min soil temp: 45°F: Carrots germinate very slowly in cold soil, so it's best to allow the soil to warm up a little. It takes 50 days for them to germinate at 40 degrees, but only 17 days at 50 degrees.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil, up to 1/2" deep in warmer soil.
Spacing: 3", 16 plants per sq ft. The right spacing depends on the fertility of the soil, the type of Carrot and the size of the root you want. A wider spacing results in larger roots.
4" (poor soil)
3" (good soil)
Spring Crop: 2-3 weeks before last frost date. You can plant your first carrots 2 to 3 weeks before your last frost, or as soon as the soil is ready to be worked in spring, it depends on soil temperature. Carrots can be grown right through the summer, though they aren't as good when growing in hot weather.
Intensive beds:
1. Place 2 to 3 seeds in 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ deep drills 3" apart.
Rows: Plant short rows of Carrots across the bed, as this wastes less seed and makes it easier to thin and deal with weeds.
1. Scrape 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ deep furrows with a hoe and sow the seed at roughly half the desired spacing (3" apart).
2. Then close up the furrows (preferably with the same soil and compost mix used to cover the broadcast seeds). Some people mix a little Radish seed in with the Carrot seed, to mark the rows and break up any soil crust.
Broadcasting:
1. You can broadcast the seeds 1/2˝ apart.
2. Cover the seeds on the bed with a thin 1/8˝ to 1/4˝ layer of soil. If your topsoil has a tendency to crust, you may want to use a mix of sifted soil and compost.
The main thing to remember when broadcasting is to sow the seeds at the right density. Beginners usually plant too thickly, which wastes seed and necessitates some tedious hand thinning. Sowing Carrot seed is tricky because it is small and light. You might try mixing the small seeds with sand, to make it easier to distribute them evenly.
Fall Crop: 8-10 weeks before first frost date. Fall Carrots should be sown from mid to late summer (a minimum of 8 to 10 weeks before the first frost) to give them time to mature before it gets too cold. In mild climates they will continue to grow right through the winter. They must be started early though, so they are almost mature by the time the first frost hits. If they are too small when cold weather arrives, they will simply sit in the ground until spring and then bolt. Make one large planting for winter use, as you will be eating them for months.
Intensive beds:
1. Place 2 to 3 seeds in 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ deep drills 2" apart.
Rows: Plant short rows of Carrots across the bed, as this wastes less seed and makes it easier to thin and deal with weeds.
1. Scrape 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ deep furrows with a hoe and sow the seed at roughly half the desired spacing (1" apart).
2. Then close up the furrows (preferably with the same soil and compost mix used to cover the broadcast seeds). Some people mix a little Radish seed in with the Carrot seed, to mark the rows and break up any soil crust.
Broadcasting:
1. You can broadcast the seeds 1/2˝ apart.
2. Cover the seeds on the bed with a thin 1/8˝ to 1/4˝ layer of soil. If your topsoil has a tendency to crust, you may want to use a mix of sifted soil and compost.
The main thing to remember when broadcasting is to sow the seeds at the right density. Beginners usually plant too thickly, which wastes seed and necessitates some tedious hand thinning. Sowing Carrot seed is tricky because it is small and light. You might try mixing the small seeds with sand, to make it easier to distribute them evenly.
Support: No
Water Needs: Moderate. Carrots need a steady and even supply of moisture for good growth. Too little water may result in excessively hairy roots (produced to search for water), or woody roots with marked rings. Too much water may cause the roots to split, encourage too much top growth or result in poorly flavored roots. Extreme fluctuations of soil moisture between dry and wet conditions may cause cracking of the roots. Water, 0.5 inch(es), after sowing, 2 times a week It is crucial that the seedbed be watered regularly until all of the seeds have germinated. A general rule is to allow 50% of the surface of the bed to dry out and then water again. Don’t water too heavily, or the light seeds may be washed around, resulting in an uneven stand, with bare patches and very dense patches. The 1" of rain is the total for the week, but is applied in small quantities every day. Carrots need a steady and even supply of moisture for good growth. Too little water may result in excessively hairy roots (produced to search for water), or woody roots with marked rings. Too much water may cause the roots to split. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry.
Fertilizer Needs: Light. Carrots are surprisingly light feeders considering the amount of food they produce.
Weeding, after sowing: after sowing, every 2 weeks. More than most crops, carrots are susceptible to weeds. If these are not removed promptly they will quickly smother the sparsely leafed seedlings. Your first priority must be to weed (and thin) the newly emerged plants. Weeds will have to be removed by hand from broadcast beds. Row plantings can be hoed if widely spaced, though some hand weeding is usually needed also.
Side Dressing, after planting: Mulch, 2", after planting, 1 time. Mulch conserves moisture and keeps down weeds and covers the shoulders of the root, preventing them turning green and inedible from exposure to light.
In winter a deeper (6") mulch can keep the ground from freezing and help to prevent the roots being heaved by frost.
Thinning, when 3" tall: 1" apart, when 3" tall, 1 time. After all the seedlings have germinated and are growing well, you will have to thin them. This is the most critical step of all; if the plants are packed too closely together they simply won’t produce swollen roots. The earlier you thin (and weed) the easier it will be. The initial thinning is done when the seedlings are about 2" to 3˝ tall and you should leave the plants about an inch apart. If you have a large area to thin, this can be done with a wire rake (carefully, by simply raking out excess plants).
Thinning, when 4" tall: 3" apart, when 4" tall, 8 weeks. A second thinning (and weeding) should be done 2 to 4 weeks after the first. This time you thin to the desired spacing by hand. It is important to remove all of the uprooted plants from the area after thinning as the smell of damaged foliage can attract the Carrot Rust Fly. Ideally you thin on cool cloudy days, or in late evening, and water afterward to reduce the smell of Carrot.
Thinning, when 6" tall: when 6" tall, 1 time. During the growing season thin Carrots to the variety requirements. You may continually thin which will allow you to eat tender young Carrots. This is a process that can be utilized until the crop reaches full maturity. Thin Carrots before they reach full size, you should thin and harvest alternate plants, as this gives the remaining plants more room to grow. Just be sure you don’t disturb their roots. Alternatively you could take the largest plants first, leaving the others to size up.
Watering, during fruit production: Water, 0.5 inches, during fruit production, 3 times a week Giving the plants extra water when the roots start to size up can boost yields considerably (though there is a danger it will cause the roots to split). Increase your watering from 2 to 3 times a week. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Support: No
Harvesting
Storage
Storage Req: Ground
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: days
You can store carrots in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for several weeks.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: days
In harsh climates you will have to protect the roots over the winter as described previously. Replant them in the spring and wait for them to flower.
The flowers are cross-pollinated by insects and will cross with any other Carrots or Wild Carrots (Queen Annes Lace) within a half mile. The best seed is produced on the primary umbel, which is the first to ripen. The second umbel is pretty good too, so take it from these two. When the seed heads are ripe, cut them and leave in a paper grocery bag to dry thoroughly.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-5 years
Germination Percentage: 50%
Culinary
Slightly spicy, sweet, best when cooked or roasted.
Culinary Use:
Carrots are so sweet and rich in flavor they can be eaten raw or steamed, used in soups and sauces. Eat or cook fresh carrots out of the garden with other seasonal greens or by themselves with a touch of fresh butter--it's the reason you garden.
These short carrots are delicious when roasted or used in soup because of their sweetness.
Root: raw or cooked. The roots of well-grown plants are crisp, sweet and juicy, they are very nice raw and are also cooked as a vegetable or added to soups, stews etc. The grated root is a tasty addition to the salad bowl. The juice can be extracted from the root and used as a health-promoting drink. The root is very rich in carotene, which is transformed by the body into vitamin A when it is eaten. The root is sometimes ground into a powder and used in making cakes, bread etc. The roasted root is a coffee substitute. Carotin, extracted from the roots, is used as an orange-yellow food dye.
Leaves: raw or cooked. A very strong flavor, they can be added in small quantities to mixed salads. The leaves contain an oil that is rich in vitamin E, they are sometimes used as a flavoring in soups.
Seed: An essential oil from the seed is used as a food flavoring.
Medicinal
Known hazards: Carrots sometimes cause allergic reactions in some people. Skin contact with the sap is said to cause photo-sensitivity and/or dermatitis in some people.
Companion Planting
Enemies: Plant dill, fennel, kohlrabi and parsnips away from carrots.
Problems
Carrot Rust Fly
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Wireworm
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Nutrition
Health Benefits
Blood Pressure: Next time you start getting riled up about something and your blood begins to boil, eat a carrot! Carrots are rich sources of potassium, which is a vasodilator and can relax the tension in your blood vessels and arteries, thereby increasing blood flow and circulation, boosting organ function throughout the body, and reducing the stress on the cardiovascular system. High blood pressure is also directly linked to atherosclerosis, strokes, and heart attacks, so this is yet another heart-healthy aspect of carrots! The coumarin found in carrots also has been linked to reducing hypertension and protecting your heart health!
Immune Booster: Carrots contain a number of antiseptic and antibacterial abilities that make it ideal for boosting the immune system. Not only that, carrots are a rich source of vitamin C, which stimulates the activity of white blood cells and is one of the most important elements in the human immune system.
Digestion: Carrots, like most vegetables, have significant amounts of dietary fiber in those orange roots, and fiber is one of the most important elements in maintaining good digestive health. Fiber adds bulk to stool, which helps it to pass smoothly through the digestive tract, and it also stimulates peristaltic motion and the secretion of gastric juices. Altogether, this reduces the severity of conditions like constipation, and protects your colon and stomach from various serious illnesses, including colorectal cancer. Fiber also boosts heart health by helping to eliminate excess LDL cholesterol from the walls of arteries and blood vessels.
Prevents Cancer: Beta-carotene consumption has been linked to a reduced risk of several cancers, notably lung cancer. British researchers discovered that increasing beta-carotene consumption from 1.7 to 2.7 milligrams per day reduced lung cancer risk by more than 40 percent. The average carrot contains about three milligrams of beta-carotene. In a separate study, researchers found that eating fiber-rich carrots reduce the risk of colon cancer by as much as 24 percent. Another study shows that women who ate raw carrots were five to eight times less likely to develop breast cancer than women who did not eat carrots. Further research into the application of both carrots and beta-carotene in relation to other forms of cancer is ongoing.
Macular Degeneration: This is a common eye disease of the elderly that impairs the function of the macula. Research has found that people who ate the most amount of beta-carotene had a forty percent lower risk of macular degeneration compared with those who consumed the least. Beta-carotene can also split itself via an enzymatic reaction to form provitamin A, which is often associated with antioxidant capacity in relation to vision. Therefore, carrots are an all-around vision booster.
Improves Eyesight: Deficiency of vitamin A can cause some difficulty seeing in dim light. Since carrots are rich in vitamin A, it is good for improving eyesight and preventing conditions like night blindness from developing as we age.
Oral Health: The organic compounds in carrots all by themselves are good for mineral antioxidants, but carrots also stimulate the gums and induce excess saliva. Saliva is an alkaline substance and combats the bacteria and foreign bodies that can often result in cavities, halitosis, and other oral health risks.
Stroke: Eating a carrot every day reduces the risk of stroke by 68%. Many studies have strengthened the belief in the “carrot effect” on the brain. Studies conducted on stroke patients revealed that those with highest levels of beta carotene had the highest survival rate.
Diabetes: Carrots are good for blood sugar regulation due to the presence of carotenoids in this delicious vegetable. Carotenoids inversely affect insulin resistance and thus lower blood sugar, thereby helping diabetic patients live a normal, healthy life. They also regulate the amount of insulin and glucose that is being used and metabolized by the body, providing a more even and healthy fluctuation for diabetic patients.
Carrots have antiseptic qualities and can therefore be used as laxatives, vermicides and as a remedy for liver conditions. Carrot oil is good for dry skin because it makes the skin softer, smoother and firmer. Furthermore, carrot juice improves stomach and gastrointestinal health.
Thus, carrots, as raw fruits, juice or in cooked form, are always a good choice for your health!
Suggested Varieties
(Amaranthus caudatus 'Love, Lies, Bleeding')
Love, Lies, Bleeding Amaranth is a heirloom annual leaf vegetable that is native to South America, but can be commonly found growing in gardens throughout the United States. At maturity, this plant reaches the height of 2-4' and features erect, deep red stems, 6” oval, light green leaves and 12” bright red, drooping tassels. This plant can be grown in containers or hanging baskets, attracts bees and butterflies, tolerates drought, is used to make dye, self sows, is both edible and medicinal, and is great as a cut flower!
(Amaranthus tricolor 'Perfecta')
Perfecta Amaranth is a heirloom upright, busy annual leaf vegetable that is native to India and tropical Asia, but can be commonly found growing in gardens throughout the United States. At maturity, this plant reaches the height of 2-4' and feature s erect stems, 10” oval-shaped, green to purple leaves that have yellow and red blotches, and 1” green to red flowers. This plant can be grown in containers, attracts bees and butterflies, tolerates drought, is edible, and its foliage is a addition to cut flowers!
(Amaranthus cruentus 'Red Garnet')
Red garnet Amaranth is a heirloom, warm weather annual leaf vegetable that is native to Mexico and South America, but can be commonly found growing in gardens throughout the United States. At maturity, this plant reaches the height of 6-7' and features erect stems, oval-shaped, burgundy red leaves, and large dark red flower spikes. This plant can be grown in containers, attracts bees, birds, and butterflies, tolerates drought, and it's edible!
(Allium tuberosum ‘Garlic')
Only a few left!
Garlic Chive is a clump-forming annual herb that is native to Asia but can be found growing throughout the Midwest and along the southern and eastern coasts of the United States. At maturity, this plant reaches a height of 10-18" and features 12” tapering, soft textured, cylindrical leaves, leafless stems, and 2” violet-scented, star-shaped, white flowers that have brown striped tepals. This plant can be grown in a container, attracts bees, butterflies, and ladybugs, repels aphids, carrot flies, Japanese beetles, and moles, is resistant to deer, tolerates drought and frost, is used to make fungicides and insecticides, is both edible and medicinal and self-sows!
(Allium schoenoprasum ‘Onion')
Onion Chive is a native clump-forming perennial herb that can be found growing throughout the northern United States. At maturity, this plant reaches a height of 20” and features 12” dark green grassy-like leaves and 16” stems that are topped with aromatic pale purple clover-like flowers. This plant can be grown in a container, attracts bees, butterflies, ladybugs, and pollinating moths, repels aphids, carrot flies, Japanese beetles, and moles, is resistant to deer, tolerates drought and frost, is used to make fungicides and insecticides, is both edible and medicinal and self-sows!
(Trifolium incarnatum ‘Crimson’)
Crimson Clover is an annual flower native to Europe but grows across the U.S. in nearly every state. At maturity, this plant reaches a height of 1-3' and features hairy rosette unbranched stems, 1/2-1” heart-shaped leaflets, and 1-2 1/2” cylindrical flower heads that bare ½ vibrant red florets. This plant can be grown in a container, attracts bees and butterflies, is drought and frost tolerant, and provides forage to livestock!
(Dalea purpurea ‘Purple Prairie’)
Purple Prairie Clover is a native perennial flower that grows in prairies throughout the United States. At maturity, this plant reaches a height of 1-3' and features tiny purple flowers that grow densely on a cone-like head. This plant fixes nitrogen, attracts bees and butterflies, provides forage to birds and livestock, is edible and medicinal, tolerates drought, and is used as a cut flower!
(Trifolium fragiferum ‘Strawberry Palestine’)
Strawberry Palestine Clover is a cool-weather perennial ground cover that is native to Eurasia but can be found growing in the Midwest and northeastern United States. At maturity, this plant reaches a height of 8-14” and features compound and alternate leaves with attractive teeth edgings and symmetrical aromatic flower heads that bare resupinate peduncles ranging from 3/4" to nearly 2" long. This plant can be grown in a container, attracts bees and butterflies, is drought and light-frost tolerant, and provides forage to livestock!
(Allium ampeloprasum Giant Musselburg')
Giant Musselburg Leeks is a heirloom, hardy, cool weather biennial vegetable that is native to the Mediterranean region, but can be found growing in gardens throughout the United States. At maturity, this plant reaches the height of 12-18” and features a 9-15" white stems that are 2-3” in diameter. This plant can be grown in a container, repels carrot fly, moles, and moths, tolerates frost, and is both edible and medicinal!
(Lactuca sativa 'Bibb')
Bibb Lettuce is a heirloom, semi-hardy, cool weather annual vegetable that is native to Kentucky where is was developed in Frankfort by Lt. Jack B. Bibb in 1935. At maturity, this plant reaches the height of 8-12” and features loose heads with light green leaves. This plant can be grown in a container, attracts earwigs, is rabbit safe, tolerates light frost, and is both edible and medicinal!
(Lactuca sativa 'Freckles Romaine')
Freckles Romaine Lettuce is a heirloom, semi-hardy, cool weather annual vegetable that is native to Austria and Southern Germany, but can be commonly found growing in gardens throughout the United States. At maturity, this plant reaches the height of 18-24” and features loose conical heads with red speckled bright green leaves. This plant can be grown in a container, attracts earwigs, is rabbit safe, tolerates light frost, and is both edible and medicinal!
(Lactuca sativa 'Oakleaf')
Oakleaf Lettuce is a heirloom, semi-hardy, cool weather annual vegetable that is native to France, where it was developed and introduced by Vilmorin Seed Company in 1771. At maturity, this plant reaches the height of 6-12” and features tight rosettes with bright green oakleaf shaped leaves. This plant can be grown in a container, attracts earwigs, is rabbit safe, tolerates light frost, and is both edible and medicinal!