(Solanum lycopersicum 'Aunt Ruby's German Green')
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Aunt Ruby's German Green Tomato is a heirloom, tender, warm weather annual vegetable that is native to Tennessee, where it was bred by Ruby Arnold in Greenville and introduced in 1993 by Bill Minkey in the Seed Savers Exchange Yearbook. At maturity, this plant reaches the height of 60-84” and features large 1 lb. green and yellow tomatoes that blush an amber color when ripe. This plant can be grown in a container, attracts earwigs, is rabbit safe, tolerates drought, is used to make cosmetics, insecticides, and soap, and is both edible and medicinal!
Family: Solanaceae
Genus: Solanum
Species: lycopersicum
Variety: Aunt Ruby's German Green Tomato
Native to: Tennessee
Ease of Growing: Easy
Grown as: Annual
Days to Maturity: Spring/Summer 80 days
Growing Habit: Indeterminate
Hardiness: Tender. Tomatoes are not at all hardy and need warm weather to grow well. They can't stand any frost.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Summer
Growing Season: Long
Cultivar Type: Late
Growing Conditions: Warm, Hot. Tomatoes are warm-season plants and should be planted only after danger of frost has passed. Temperature is an important factor in the production of tomatoes, which are particularly sensitive to low night temperatures. If you have a very long growing season you can direct sow them outside.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 50°F - 95°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 60°F. It is important that the soil be sufficiently warm (60° F minimum) for planting Tomatoes. If it is too cold they will simply sit there without growing and may even be permanently retarded.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Cool, Warm, Hot). Full sun. Tomatoes need a warm sheltered site and a minimum of 6 hours of sun daily. Any less and they won’t produce very well.
Water: Moderate. These deep-rooted plants are quite drought tolerant and don't really need a lot of water once they are established. In fact, keeping them dry encourages strong root growth. However you will get more and larger fruit if you keep the soil evenly moist once they start flowering and bearing fruit. Drip irrigation works well with tomatoes, as it keeps the soil evenly moist but the plants stay dry. Uneven watering may cause Blossom End Rot or cracking.
Feeder: Heavy. High nitrogen. Moderate phosphorus. High potassium. Tomatoes are quite heavy feeders. They have deep roots that may go down 5', but most of their feeder roots are in the top 2'.
Suitability: Drought tolerant, High heat
Small Gardens?: Yes
Containers?: Yes, but will need a large one, like a half wine barrel. Tomatoes can be quite successful when grown in containers. Your container should be fairly large, at least 24-48" deep and 18-36" in diameter for most varieties. Tomatoes have somewhat deep roots and larger pots will give them the room they need to grow and gather nutrients. Plants in containers will need to be watered more frequently than plants in the ground or even in raised beds, as sun on the pot will heat the soil causing the moisture to evaporate more rapidly. Water them regularly, but do not to let them sit in water. It is crucial that your container drains well, as you want to avoid rotting the roots. Selecting a container with drainage holes and then lining the bottom with rocks or gravel can help keep your tomatoes properly drained. Use a fertile soil mix and water regularly. Tomatoes are heavy feeders, so it is best to fertilize regularly with fish emulsion or seaweed extract. You can do this once a month or every other week at half strength. A smaller pot will require even more frequent watering and feeding. Be sure to provide access to full sun, as tomatoes are a heat-loving plant. Your beefsteak tomatoes probably won't mature to the same size as those planted in the ground. The plant will still get large, and will need adequate support. Put your containers near a fence or plan on having a structure for them to grow on.
Attracts beneficial insects?: No
Forage: Rabbits. Fruit only, leaves and stocks are toxic!
Maintenance: Medium
Plant Height: 60-84"
Sow Depth: 0.25" to 0.5".
Spacing: 15-36"
Produces: large 1 lb. green and yellow tomatoes that blush an amber color when ripe.
Zone: 3-11
Genus: Solanum
Species: lycopersicum
Variety: Aunt Ruby's German Green Tomato
Native to: Tennessee
Ease of Growing: Easy
Grown as: Annual
Days to Maturity: Spring/Summer 80 days
Growing Habit: Indeterminate
Hardiness: Tender. Tomatoes are not at all hardy and need warm weather to grow well. They can't stand any frost.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Summer
Growing Season: Long
Cultivar Type: Late
Growing Conditions: Warm, Hot. Tomatoes are warm-season plants and should be planted only after danger of frost has passed. Temperature is an important factor in the production of tomatoes, which are particularly sensitive to low night temperatures. If you have a very long growing season you can direct sow them outside.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 50°F - 95°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 60°F. It is important that the soil be sufficiently warm (60° F minimum) for planting Tomatoes. If it is too cold they will simply sit there without growing and may even be permanently retarded.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Cool, Warm, Hot). Full sun. Tomatoes need a warm sheltered site and a minimum of 6 hours of sun daily. Any less and they won’t produce very well.
Water: Moderate. These deep-rooted plants are quite drought tolerant and don't really need a lot of water once they are established. In fact, keeping them dry encourages strong root growth. However you will get more and larger fruit if you keep the soil evenly moist once they start flowering and bearing fruit. Drip irrigation works well with tomatoes, as it keeps the soil evenly moist but the plants stay dry. Uneven watering may cause Blossom End Rot or cracking.
Feeder: Heavy. High nitrogen. Moderate phosphorus. High potassium. Tomatoes are quite heavy feeders. They have deep roots that may go down 5', but most of their feeder roots are in the top 2'.
Suitability: Drought tolerant, High heat
Small Gardens?: Yes
Containers?: Yes, but will need a large one, like a half wine barrel. Tomatoes can be quite successful when grown in containers. Your container should be fairly large, at least 24-48" deep and 18-36" in diameter for most varieties. Tomatoes have somewhat deep roots and larger pots will give them the room they need to grow and gather nutrients. Plants in containers will need to be watered more frequently than plants in the ground or even in raised beds, as sun on the pot will heat the soil causing the moisture to evaporate more rapidly. Water them regularly, but do not to let them sit in water. It is crucial that your container drains well, as you want to avoid rotting the roots. Selecting a container with drainage holes and then lining the bottom with rocks or gravel can help keep your tomatoes properly drained. Use a fertile soil mix and water regularly. Tomatoes are heavy feeders, so it is best to fertilize regularly with fish emulsion or seaweed extract. You can do this once a month or every other week at half strength. A smaller pot will require even more frequent watering and feeding. Be sure to provide access to full sun, as tomatoes are a heat-loving plant. Your beefsteak tomatoes probably won't mature to the same size as those planted in the ground. The plant will still get large, and will need adequate support. Put your containers near a fence or plan on having a structure for them to grow on.
Attracts beneficial insects?: No
Forage: Rabbits. Fruit only, leaves and stocks are toxic!
Maintenance: Medium
Plant Height: 60-84"
Sow Depth: 0.25" to 0.5".
Spacing: 15-36"
Produces: large 1 lb. green and yellow tomatoes that blush an amber color when ripe.
Zone: 3-11
Soil Preparation
Soil Preference:
Soil pH: 5.5-7.5, Ideal 6.0-6.8. Tomatoes are not particularly fussy about soil, but generally the better the soil, the more productive it will be. The perfect soil for Tomatoes is a deep, well-drained (they are prone to root rot in wet soils) loam with lots of moisture retentive organic matter. They prefer a fairly neutral soil, but are not very sensitive to pH. Early crops do better in light sandy soil because it warms up faster.
Soil Preparation:
Compost (Nitrogen), 2", in top 10" of soil, 1 time: It is important to add organic matter to the soil, as well as to supply nutrients to the plants.
Standard Mix, 1 handful at transplanting, 1 time: A handful of standard mix in each planting hole will supply additional essential nutrients, including: This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Soil pH: 5.5-7.5, Ideal 6.0-6.8. Tomatoes are not particularly fussy about soil, but generally the better the soil, the more productive it will be. The perfect soil for Tomatoes is a deep, well-drained (they are prone to root rot in wet soils) loam with lots of moisture retentive organic matter. They prefer a fairly neutral soil, but are not very sensitive to pH. Early crops do better in light sandy soil because it warms up faster.
Soil Preparation:
Compost (Nitrogen), 2", in top 10" of soil, 1 time: It is important to add organic matter to the soil, as well as to supply nutrients to the plants.
Standard Mix, 1 handful at transplanting, 1 time: A handful of standard mix in each planting hole will supply additional essential nutrients, including: This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
- 4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
- 2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
- 2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
- 1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
- 1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Start Indoors
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Tomatoes are sown close to the surface where it is warm. Normally this is 1/4" deep in warm soil (60 to 75˚ F) and 1/2" deep in warmer soil (76˚ F or more).
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 90°F, optimal 75°F to 85°F, optimal 77°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 8 to 16 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 6-8 weeks before last frost date.
1. Seeds should be planted 1/4˝ or 1/2˝ deep in flats, soil blocks or cell packs.
2. Put in a warm place to germinate. They germinate best at a temperature of around 65 to 75˚ F during the daytime and 10˚ F lower at night.
Replant: 4-6 weeks before last frost date. You must now give the seedling everything it’s little green heart desires: water, humidity, warmth and all the nutrients it needs.
1. When their first true leaves appear, the plants should be transplanted to individual 4˝ pots.
2. Plant them deeper than they were growing, as they will produce roots all along the buried stem.
Harden Off: 1 week after last frost date. If you are planting Tomatoes out in cool spring conditions the transplants should be hardened off carefully. Do this slowly over a week, by reducing the amount of water they get and by leaving them outside for longer periods each day. This helps them to slowly get accustomed to the somewhat less than ideal conditions to be found outside. In warm summer weather there is no need to harden off the transplants. However you may want to keep them outside in the shade for a few days, so they don’t get sunburned when planted out.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 90°F, optimal 75°F to 85°F, optimal 77°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 8 to 16 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 6-8 weeks before last frost date.
1. Seeds should be planted 1/4˝ or 1/2˝ deep in flats, soil blocks or cell packs.
2. Put in a warm place to germinate. They germinate best at a temperature of around 65 to 75˚ F during the daytime and 10˚ F lower at night.
Replant: 4-6 weeks before last frost date. You must now give the seedling everything it’s little green heart desires: water, humidity, warmth and all the nutrients it needs.
1. When their first true leaves appear, the plants should be transplanted to individual 4˝ pots.
2. Plant them deeper than they were growing, as they will produce roots all along the buried stem.
Harden Off: 1 week after last frost date. If you are planting Tomatoes out in cool spring conditions the transplants should be hardened off carefully. Do this slowly over a week, by reducing the amount of water they get and by leaving them outside for longer periods each day. This helps them to slowly get accustomed to the somewhat less than ideal conditions to be found outside. In warm summer weather there is no need to harden off the transplants. However you may want to keep them outside in the shade for a few days, so they don’t get sunburned when planted out.
Transplant Outdoors
2-4 weeks after last frost date: The best time to transplant Tomatoes (or anything else) is on a warm cloudy day. If rain threatens even better. If you don’t get cloudy days, then transplant them in the early evening, not in the heat of the day. You can give Tomatoes a lot of attention while planting, because you don’t usually plant very many.
1. Dig a fairly large planting hole and amend it with a couple of handfuls of compost.
2. Plant the seedlings so most of the stem is buried (pinch off the lower leaves) and they will grow roots along the buried stem.
3. It is a good idea to put the supporting stakes, or cages, in the ground at this time, to avoid disturbing the plants later.
Very large or leggy plants can be planted sideways in a shallow trench. They will produce roots all along the buried stem and will benefit from the warmth of the shallow soil near the surface.
Warm, Hot: Tomatoes are warm-season plants and should be planted only after danger of frost has passed. Temperature is an important factor in the production of tomatoes, which are particularly sensitive to low night temperatures. If you have a very long growing season you can direct sow them outside.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. It is important that the soil be sufficiently warm (60° F minimum) for planting Tomatoes. If it is too cold they will simply sit there without growing and may even be permanently retarded.
Spacing: 15-36", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. Traditionally tomatoes are spaced 15 to 36" apart, in rows that are 36 to 60" apart.
Intensive spacing: Put plants at 18, 24, or 30" apart. The considerable variation in spacing is due to the difference in the size of the varieties and in the fertility of the soil. Very close spacing of tomatoes reduces the yield per plant, but may actually increase the yield per area, as you grow more plants. Sunlight isn't needed for ripening the fruit, so the foliage can be quite dense.
Support: At planting. If you want to go for the easiest kind of support, with the most efficiency and the least effort, use a wire cage. Indeterminate varieties should be staked, caged or trellised. Set the support at the time of planting. The plants can be trained, trimmed and tied in place on a regular basis. You can let your plants grow without support, they can just sprawl on the ground. However when plants are supported the loss of fruit to disease, rotting, and pests is much less and one can grow more plants in a given area. As a result the harvest can be significantly larger.
1. Dig a fairly large planting hole and amend it with a couple of handfuls of compost.
2. Plant the seedlings so most of the stem is buried (pinch off the lower leaves) and they will grow roots along the buried stem.
3. It is a good idea to put the supporting stakes, or cages, in the ground at this time, to avoid disturbing the plants later.
Very large or leggy plants can be planted sideways in a shallow trench. They will produce roots all along the buried stem and will benefit from the warmth of the shallow soil near the surface.
Warm, Hot: Tomatoes are warm-season plants and should be planted only after danger of frost has passed. Temperature is an important factor in the production of tomatoes, which are particularly sensitive to low night temperatures. If you have a very long growing season you can direct sow them outside.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. It is important that the soil be sufficiently warm (60° F minimum) for planting Tomatoes. If it is too cold they will simply sit there without growing and may even be permanently retarded.
Spacing: 15-36", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. Traditionally tomatoes are spaced 15 to 36" apart, in rows that are 36 to 60" apart.
Intensive spacing: Put plants at 18, 24, or 30" apart. The considerable variation in spacing is due to the difference in the size of the varieties and in the fertility of the soil. Very close spacing of tomatoes reduces the yield per plant, but may actually increase the yield per area, as you grow more plants. Sunlight isn't needed for ripening the fruit, so the foliage can be quite dense.
Support: At planting. If you want to go for the easiest kind of support, with the most efficiency and the least effort, use a wire cage. Indeterminate varieties should be staked, caged or trellised. Set the support at the time of planting. The plants can be trained, trimmed and tied in place on a regular basis. You can let your plants grow without support, they can just sprawl on the ground. However when plants are supported the loss of fruit to disease, rotting, and pests is much less and one can grow more plants in a given area. As a result the harvest can be significantly larger.
Start Outdoors
When Warm, Hot: Tomatoes are warm-season plants and should be planted only after danger of frost has passed. Temperature is an important factor in the production of tomatoes, which are particularly sensitive to low night temperatures. If you have a very long growing season you can direct sow them outside.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. It is important that the soil be sufficiently warm (60° F minimum) for planting Tomatoes. If it is too cold they will simply sit there without growing and may even be permanently retarded.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Tomatoes are sown close to the surface where it is warm. Normally this is 1/4" deep in warm soil (60 to 75˚ F) and 1/2" deep in warmer soil (76˚ F or more).
Spacing: 15-36", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. Traditionally tomatoes are spaced 15 to 36" apart, in rows that are 36 to 60" apart.
Intensive spacing: Put plants at 18, 24, or 30" apart. The considerable variation in spacing is due to the difference in the size of the varieties and in the fertility of the soil. Very close spacing of tomatoes reduces the yield per plant, but may actually increase the yield per area, as you grow more plants. Sunlight isn't needed for ripening the fruit, so the foliage can be quite dense.
Summer Crop: 4-12 weeks after last frost date. Sowing seed directly outdoors is only a practical proposition in areas with a very long growing season. Of course the problem with direct sowing is that the plants take up bed space from the moment they are planted, but don’t give any return for months. It is much more efficient to raise transplants in an outdoor nursery bed.
1. The seed should be planted 1/4-1/2˝ deep, after the soil has warmed up.
Pre-germinating the seed inside may help to speed things up.
Support: At planting. If you want to go for the easiest kind of support, with the most efficiency and the least effort, use a wire cage. Indeterminate varieties should be staked, caged or trellised. Set the support at the time of planting. The plants can be trained, trimmed and tied in place on a regular basis. You can let your plants grow without support, they can just sprawl on the ground. However when plants are supported the loss of fruit to disease, rotting, and pests is much less and one can grow more plants in a given area. As a result the harvest can be significantly larger.
When outdoor temp: 50°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 60°F. It is important that the soil be sufficiently warm (60° F minimum) for planting Tomatoes. If it is too cold they will simply sit there without growing and may even be permanently retarded.
Seed Depth: 0.25"-0.5". Tomatoes are sown close to the surface where it is warm. Normally this is 1/4" deep in warm soil (60 to 75˚ F) and 1/2" deep in warmer soil (76˚ F or more).
Spacing: 15-36", (1 per 2'x2') plants per sq ft. Traditionally tomatoes are spaced 15 to 36" apart, in rows that are 36 to 60" apart.
Intensive spacing: Put plants at 18, 24, or 30" apart. The considerable variation in spacing is due to the difference in the size of the varieties and in the fertility of the soil. Very close spacing of tomatoes reduces the yield per plant, but may actually increase the yield per area, as you grow more plants. Sunlight isn't needed for ripening the fruit, so the foliage can be quite dense.
Summer Crop: 4-12 weeks after last frost date. Sowing seed directly outdoors is only a practical proposition in areas with a very long growing season. Of course the problem with direct sowing is that the plants take up bed space from the moment they are planted, but don’t give any return for months. It is much more efficient to raise transplants in an outdoor nursery bed.
1. The seed should be planted 1/4-1/2˝ deep, after the soil has warmed up.
Pre-germinating the seed inside may help to speed things up.
Support: At planting. If you want to go for the easiest kind of support, with the most efficiency and the least effort, use a wire cage. Indeterminate varieties should be staked, caged or trellised. Set the support at the time of planting. The plants can be trained, trimmed and tied in place on a regular basis. You can let your plants grow without support, they can just sprawl on the ground. However when plants are supported the loss of fruit to disease, rotting, and pests is much less and one can grow more plants in a given area. As a result the harvest can be significantly larger.
For highest productivity Tomatoes need a steady supply of available water and nutrients. If you give them all they need, they will respond by flowering earlier and fruiting more profusely.
Water Needs: Moderate. These deep-rooted plants are quite drought tolerant and don't really need a lot of water once they are established. In fact, keeping them dry encourages strong root growth. However you will get more and larger fruit if you keep the soil evenly moist once they start flowering and bearing fruit. Drip irrigation works well with tomatoes, as it keeps the soil evenly moist but the plants stay dry. Uneven watering may cause Blossom End Rot or cracking.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. High nitrogen. Moderate phosphorus. High potassium. Tomatoes are quite heavy feeders. They have deep roots that may go down 5', but most of their feeder roots are in the top 2'.
Watering, regularly: Water 1 gallon regularly, 1 time a week. Water well after transplanting and keep the plants moist until they are well established.
Protecting, while danger of early frost: Row cover, 1 layer while danger of early frost, 1 time.
Put a cover over plants while danger of frost is present. This is important, as an early frost in fall will usually kill unprotected tomato plants. If you can help your plants make it through these first frosts there may not be another one for several weeks, during which time you can get a lot more ripe fruit. Almost anything can help them to survive a mild frost, old bed sheets, straw mulch, plastic sheet, or cardboard.
Protecting, while danger of late frost: Row cover, 1 layer while danger of late frost, 1 time. If a late frost threatens after you've put out your transplants you can protect them with row cover. Almost anything can help them to survive a mild frost, old bed sheets, straw mulch, plastic sheet, cardboard.
Side Dressing, after planting: Mulch, 2 inches after planting 1 time. A mulch (2" of straw) is useful to keep down weeds, conserve moisture and keep the fruit clean. It can also reduce disease problems by keeping soil off of the foliage. Don’t put down an organic mulch until the soil is warm (when plants start to flower), as it could insulate the soil and keep it cool.
Watering, during fruit production: Water, 1 gallon during fruit production, 2 times a week. Their most critical need for water is when the fruit is sizing up. Make sure the soil is kept moist at this time.
Side Dressing, during fruit production: Compost tea, 1 cup per plant, during fruit production, every 3 weeks. If your soil isn't very fertile, you should give them a cup of diluted compost tea (or liquid kelp as directed) every 3 weeks when the plants start producing fruit. This is not necessary if your soil is very fertile.
Support: At planting. If you want to go for the easiest kind of support, with the most efficiency and the least effort, use a wire cage. Indeterminate varieties should be staked, caged or trellised. Set the support at the time of planting. The plants can be trained, trimmed and tied in place on a regular basis. You can let your plants grow without support, they can just sprawl on the ground. However when plants are supported the loss of fruit to disease, rotting, and pests is much less and one can grow more plants in a given area. As a result the harvest can be significantly larger.
Water Needs: Moderate. These deep-rooted plants are quite drought tolerant and don't really need a lot of water once they are established. In fact, keeping them dry encourages strong root growth. However you will get more and larger fruit if you keep the soil evenly moist once they start flowering and bearing fruit. Drip irrigation works well with tomatoes, as it keeps the soil evenly moist but the plants stay dry. Uneven watering may cause Blossom End Rot or cracking.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. High nitrogen. Moderate phosphorus. High potassium. Tomatoes are quite heavy feeders. They have deep roots that may go down 5', but most of their feeder roots are in the top 2'.
Watering, regularly: Water 1 gallon regularly, 1 time a week. Water well after transplanting and keep the plants moist until they are well established.
Protecting, while danger of early frost: Row cover, 1 layer while danger of early frost, 1 time.
Put a cover over plants while danger of frost is present. This is important, as an early frost in fall will usually kill unprotected tomato plants. If you can help your plants make it through these first frosts there may not be another one for several weeks, during which time you can get a lot more ripe fruit. Almost anything can help them to survive a mild frost, old bed sheets, straw mulch, plastic sheet, or cardboard.
Protecting, while danger of late frost: Row cover, 1 layer while danger of late frost, 1 time. If a late frost threatens after you've put out your transplants you can protect them with row cover. Almost anything can help them to survive a mild frost, old bed sheets, straw mulch, plastic sheet, cardboard.
Side Dressing, after planting: Mulch, 2 inches after planting 1 time. A mulch (2" of straw) is useful to keep down weeds, conserve moisture and keep the fruit clean. It can also reduce disease problems by keeping soil off of the foliage. Don’t put down an organic mulch until the soil is warm (when plants start to flower), as it could insulate the soil and keep it cool.
Watering, during fruit production: Water, 1 gallon during fruit production, 2 times a week. Their most critical need for water is when the fruit is sizing up. Make sure the soil is kept moist at this time.
Side Dressing, during fruit production: Compost tea, 1 cup per plant, during fruit production, every 3 weeks. If your soil isn't very fertile, you should give them a cup of diluted compost tea (or liquid kelp as directed) every 3 weeks when the plants start producing fruit. This is not necessary if your soil is very fertile.
Support: At planting. If you want to go for the easiest kind of support, with the most efficiency and the least effort, use a wire cage. Indeterminate varieties should be staked, caged or trellised. Set the support at the time of planting. The plants can be trained, trimmed and tied in place on a regular basis. You can let your plants grow without support, they can just sprawl on the ground. However when plants are supported the loss of fruit to disease, rotting, and pests is much less and one can grow more plants in a given area. As a result the harvest can be significantly larger.
Harvesting
Ripening:
They are fully ripe about a week after they turn 1-2 lbs., green. The fruit won't usually ripen below 55˚ F, or above 85˚ F. Sun isn't necessary for ripening, only warmth. Consequently fruits will ripen even in the dense shade in the middle of a plant.
When and How:
Whole ripe Fruit, 1-56 days after maturity:
When: Gather the fruit when it comes away from the vine easily. Many tomatoes, have a tendency to crack if they stay on the plant, so they should be picked at the peak of their color, or even a tad before. They can be gathered earlier, as they will ripen off the vine.
How: Pick tomatoes when their color is glossy and even, and their texture midway between soft and firm using a garden scissor so you don't damage the plant. Pick them as they mature to encourage new fruit to form. Remove any decayed tomatoes from the plant.
Depending upon the growing conditions the plants may produce fruit for 2 months.
Harvesting Green fruit:
If frost threatens, gather any fruits that are nearly full size, even if they are still green and ripen them indoors in a warm place. These won’t be as good as fruit ripened on the vine (they will also have less vitamin C), but they’ll probably be as good as anything you could buy.
They are fully ripe about a week after they turn 1-2 lbs., green. The fruit won't usually ripen below 55˚ F, or above 85˚ F. Sun isn't necessary for ripening, only warmth. Consequently fruits will ripen even in the dense shade in the middle of a plant.
When and How:
Whole ripe Fruit, 1-56 days after maturity:
When: Gather the fruit when it comes away from the vine easily. Many tomatoes, have a tendency to crack if they stay on the plant, so they should be picked at the peak of their color, or even a tad before. They can be gathered earlier, as they will ripen off the vine.
How: Pick tomatoes when their color is glossy and even, and their texture midway between soft and firm using a garden scissor so you don't damage the plant. Pick them as they mature to encourage new fruit to form. Remove any decayed tomatoes from the plant.
Depending upon the growing conditions the plants may produce fruit for 2 months.
Harvesting Green fruit:
If frost threatens, gather any fruits that are nearly full size, even if they are still green and ripen them indoors in a warm place. These won’t be as good as fruit ripened on the vine (they will also have less vitamin C), but they’ll probably be as good as anything you could buy.
Storage
Storage:
Mature green tomatoes can be stored at 55-60ºF for 1 to 6 weeks. Make sure the area is moist (80-85% relative humidity). Cover with a paper bag and make sure the fruit don’t touch each other. Remove any that start to rot (check them regularly). To ripen, move mature green tomatoes to 68-72º F as needed (it takes about 2 weeks.)
Storage Req: Moist, Warm
Storage Temp: 55-65°F
Storage Length: 7-28 days
Storing tomatoes in the fridge, or below 55˚ F impairs their flavor. They should keep for a week or two at 55 to 65˚ F (depending upon how ripe they are).
Storage Req: Cool, Dry
Storage Temp: 55-65°F
Storage Length: 7-14 days
Sun-dried tomatoes are made at 140-150 degrees Fahrenheit. Once dried, store in a cool, dry place. They can last 9 - 12 months in the freezer, or in the fridge for only a few weeks (they will be moldy in a month).
Storage Req: Drying, Freezer, Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 32-50°F
Storage Length: 7-360 days
Tomatoes can be peeled and frozen for storage (peel by dipping in boiling water), or you can freeze the puree.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 0-32°F
Storage Length: 1-90 days
Canning provides a long storage option as long as temperatures stay consistent, 55 to 70˚ F is the optimum.
Storage Req: Canning
Storage Temp: 55-70°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Mature green tomatoes can be stored at 55-60ºF for 1 to 6 weeks. Make sure the area is moist (80-85% relative humidity). Cover with a paper bag and make sure the fruit don’t touch each other. Remove any that start to rot (check them regularly). To ripen, move mature green tomatoes to 68-72º F as needed (it takes about 2 weeks.)
Storage Req: Moist, Warm
Storage Temp: 55-65°F
Storage Length: 7-28 days
Storing tomatoes in the fridge, or below 55˚ F impairs their flavor. They should keep for a week or two at 55 to 65˚ F (depending upon how ripe they are).
Storage Req: Cool, Dry
Storage Temp: 55-65°F
Storage Length: 7-14 days
Sun-dried tomatoes are made at 140-150 degrees Fahrenheit. Once dried, store in a cool, dry place. They can last 9 - 12 months in the freezer, or in the fridge for only a few weeks (they will be moldy in a month).
Storage Req: Drying, Freezer, Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 32-50°F
Storage Length: 7-360 days
Tomatoes can be peeled and frozen for storage (peel by dipping in boiling water), or you can freeze the puree.
Storage Req: Freezer
Storage Temp: 0-32°F
Storage Length: 1-90 days
Canning provides a long storage option as long as temperatures stay consistent, 55 to 70˚ F is the optimum.
Storage Req: Canning
Storage Temp: 55-70°F
Storage Length: 1-360 days
Tomatoes are one of the easiest crops to save seed from. You can save seed from any tomato so long as it is open-pollinated and not a hybrid. To get the seed, simply squeeze it from the ripe fruit (eat the rest), add a little water and let it ferment in a warm place for a few days. Then scrape the scum from the top and rinse the seeds several times to remove bits of flesh. Strain the cleaned seed and dry it, first on paper towels and then in a warm dry place. Generally tomatoes are self pollinated and you don't need to worry about cross pollination or isolation, you just save seed from the ripe fruit when you eat them. A few varieties may cross pollinate to some extent (to get technical you can usually tell these because they have long stigmas on the flower that extend out beyond the petals).
Seed Viability in Years: 3-7 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Seed Viability in Years: 3-7 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary
Taste:
Sweet, spicy flavor.
Culinary Use:
This large size tomato in a variety of colors is the ultimate sweetness and flavor of the summer. Use in salads or sliced alone with onion, olive oil and fresh herbs it can be a meal. They can also be slow roasted and grilled.
Sweet, spicy flavor.
Culinary Use:
This large size tomato in a variety of colors is the ultimate sweetness and flavor of the summer. Use in salads or sliced alone with onion, olive oil and fresh herbs it can be a meal. They can also be slow roasted and grilled.
Medicinal
The pulped fruit is an extremely beneficial skin-wash for people with oily skin. Sliced fruits are a quick and easy first aid treatment for burns, scalds and sunburn. A decoction of the root is ingested in the treatment of toothache. The skin of tomato fruits is a good source of lycopine, a substance that has been shown to protect people from heart attacks. It seems to be more effective when it is cooked and so can be obtained from food products such as tomato ketchup and tinned tomatoes. Lycopine has also been shown to have a very beneficial effect upon the prostate and is being used increasingly to treat enlarge prostate and the difficulties in urination that accompany this disorder. A homeopathic remedy is made from the plant. It is used in the treatment of rheumatism and severe headaches.
Project Purity Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting
Allies: asparagus, basil, bean, carrots, celery, chive, cucumber, garlic, head lettuce, marigold, mint, nasturtium, onion, parsley, pea, pepper, marigold, pot marigold and sow thistle. One drawback with tomatoes and carrots: tomato plants can stunt the growth of your carrots but the carrots will still be of good flavor. Basil repels flies and mosquitoes, improves growth and flavor. Bee balm, chives and mint improve health and flavor. Borage deters tomato worm, improves growth and flavor. Dill, until mature, improves growth and health, mature dill retards tomato growth.
Enemies: keep corn and tomato apart as they are attacked by the same worm. Known as the corn earworm or tomato fruitworm. In the caterpillar phase of its life, it causes damage to fresh sweet corn by burrowing into the tops and in tomatoes, they chew a hole in the stem end, ruining the fruit, and in peppers they form small brown holes as they bore in and out of the developing fruit. Kohlrabi stunts tomato growth. Keep potatoes and tomatoes apart as they both can get early and late blight contaminating each other. Keep apricot, dill, fennel, cabbage and cauliflower away from them. Don't plant them under walnut trees as they will get walnut wilt: a disease that attacks tomatoes growing underneath these trees.
Enemies: keep corn and tomato apart as they are attacked by the same worm. Known as the corn earworm or tomato fruitworm. In the caterpillar phase of its life, it causes damage to fresh sweet corn by burrowing into the tops and in tomatoes, they chew a hole in the stem end, ruining the fruit, and in peppers they form small brown holes as they bore in and out of the developing fruit. Kohlrabi stunts tomato growth. Keep potatoes and tomatoes apart as they both can get early and late blight contaminating each other. Keep apricot, dill, fennel, cabbage and cauliflower away from them. Don't plant them under walnut trees as they will get walnut wilt: a disease that attacks tomatoes growing underneath these trees.
Problems
Disease problems include anthracnose, bacterial spot, early blight, fusarium wilt, late blight, verticillium wilt and viruses. Insect pests include tomato hornworms, aphids, Colorado potato beetles, flea beetles, cutworms and whiteflies. Watch also for physiological disorders such as blossom end rot, catfacing, blossom drop, leaf roll and sunscald.
Tomato Hornworm
Beneficial Insects such as ladybugs, green lacewings, and braconid wasps all prey on tomato hornworms.
Ladybeetles, Ladybugs, or Ladybird Beetles: Ladybeetles are probably the most well-known of beetles that eat aphids. There are many species, and both the adults and larvae eat aphids. Convergent lady beetles and the seven-spotted ladybeetles are abundant species in the environment. Eggs are found in clutches, yellow and football shaped. Larvae have an alligator-like appearance, and are black with orange markings. Pupae are sedentary. Ladybeetles are commercially available but purchasing is not generally recommended since the adult stage tends to fly away once released. Introductions may be more effective in greenhouses and high tunnels. Diverse plantings can help recruit resident ladybeetles to an area.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Aphids
Beneficial insects such as Ladybugs, Collops Beetle, Soldier Beetles, Long-legged Flies, Hover Flies, Predaceous Midges, Damsel Bugs, Big-eyed Bugs, Minute Pirate Bugs, Lacewings, Parasitic Wasps, Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.
Ladybeetles, Ladybugs, or Ladybird Beetles: Ladybeetles are probably the most well-known of beetles that eat aphids. There are many species, and both the adults and larvae eat aphids. Convergent lady beetles and the seven-spotted ladybeetles are abundant species in the environment. Eggs are found in clutches, yellow and football shaped. Larvae have an alligator-like appearance, and are black with orange markings. Pupae are sedentary. Ladybeetles are commercially available but purchasing is not generally recommended since the adult stage tends to fly away once released. Introductions may be more effective in greenhouses and high tunnels. Diverse plantings can help recruit resident ladybeetles to an area.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow
(Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), \Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis),
Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum),
Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow
(Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), \Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis),
Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum),
Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
Colorado Potato Beetle
Beneficial insects such as ladybugs, spined soldier bugs, lacewing, and several species of tiny parasitic wasps all prey on Colorado Potato Beetles.
Ladybug: Preys on Aphids, Cabbage loopers, Leafhoppers, Whitefly, Spider mites, Fleas, Mealybug, and Colorado potato beetles.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Spined Soldier Bugs: Prey on larvae of Mexican bean beetle, European corn borer, diamondback moth, corn earworm, beet armyworm, fall armyworm, cabbage looper, imported cabbageworm, Colorado potato beetle, velvetbean caterpillar, and flea beetles
To attract Spined Soldier Bugs to your garden try growing: Alfalfa, Apples, Asparagus, Beans, Celery, Cotton, Crucifers, Cucurbits, Onions, Potatoes, Soybeans, Sweet Corn and Tomatoes.
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Spined Soldier Bugs: Prey on larvae of Mexican bean beetle, European corn borer, diamondback moth, corn earworm, beet armyworm, fall armyworm, cabbage looper, imported cabbageworm, Colorado potato beetle, velvetbean caterpillar, and flea beetles
To attract Spined Soldier Bugs to your garden try growing: Alfalfa, Apples, Asparagus, Beans, Celery, Cotton, Crucifers, Cucurbits, Onions, Potatoes, Soybeans, Sweet Corn and Tomatoes.
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
Flea Beetle
Beneficial insects such as Braconid wasps, Tachinid flies, Lacewings larvae, Damsel bugs, and Big Eyed Bug all prey on Flea Beetles.
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
Damsel Bugs: Preys on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Flea beetles, Potato beetles, and Cabbage worms.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Preys on Aphids, small Caterpillars and Caterpillar eggs, Flea beetles, Fleahoppers, Lygus bugs, Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies.
To attract Big-Eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
Damsel Bugs: Preys on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Flea beetles, Potato beetles, and Cabbage worms.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Preys on Aphids, small Caterpillars and Caterpillar eggs, Flea beetles, Fleahoppers, Lygus bugs, Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies.
To attract Big-Eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Cutworm
Beneficial insects such as Ground Beetles, Tachinid Flies, Braconid Wasps, Spiders, Minute Pirate Bugs, Damsel Bugs, Lacewing Larvae, and Birds all prey on Cutworms.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Tachinid Flies: Prey on Cabbageworms, Gypsy Moths, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetle, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: carrots, coriander, and buckwheat.
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Spiders: Prey on a wide range including bed bugs, aphids, roaches, grasshoppers, cabbage looper, and fruit flies.
To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving spiders, mulch for predatory spiders.
Minute Pirate Bugs: Preys on spider mites, cabbage looper, insect eggs, caterpillars, aphids, thrips
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Tachinid Flies: Prey on Cabbageworms, Gypsy Moths, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetle, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: carrots, coriander, and buckwheat.
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Spiders: Prey on a wide range including bed bugs, aphids, roaches, grasshoppers, cabbage looper, and fruit flies.
To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving spiders, mulch for predatory spiders.
Minute Pirate Bugs: Preys on spider mites, cabbage looper, insect eggs, caterpillars, aphids, thrips
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Whiteflies
Beneficial insects such as ladybugs and lacewing larvae prey on Whiteflies.
Ladybeetles, Ladybugs, or Ladybird Beetles: Ladybeetles are probably the most well-known of beetles that eat aphids. There are many species, and both the adults and larvae eat aphids. Convergent lady beetles and the seven-spotted ladybeetles are abundant species in the environment. Eggs are found in clutches, yellow and football shaped. Larvae have an alligator-like appearance, and are black with orange markings. Pupae are sedentary. Ladybeetles are commercially available but purchasing is not generally recommended since the adult stage tends to fly away once released. Introductions may be more effective in greenhouses and high tunnels. Diverse plantings can help recruit resident ladybeetles to an area.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, Caterpillars of pest moths, and whiteflies.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, Caterpillars of pest moths, and whiteflies.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
Nutrition
The many health benefits of tomatoes can be attributed to their wealth of nutrients and vitamins, including an impressive amount of vitamins A, C, and K, as well as significant amounts of vitamin B6, folate, and thiamin. Tomatoes are also a good source of potassium, manganese, magnesium, phosphorous, and copper. Tomatoes also have dietary fiber and protein, as well as a number of organic compounds like lycopene that also contribute to the overall health benefits that tomatoes can confer to our health!
Health Benefits
The health benefits of tomatoes have been known to mankind since ancient times. Tomatoes are rich sources of antioxidants that have been proven to be effective against many forms of cancer. Some of the other health benefits of tomatoes are as follows:
Abundant Source of Antioxidants: Tomato contains large amount of lycopene, an antioxidant that is highly effective in scavenging cancer causing free radicals. This benefit can even be obtained from heat-processed tomato products like ketchup. The lycopene in tomatoes defends against cancer and has been shown to be particularly effective in fighting prostate cancer, cervical cancer, cancer of the stomach and rectum as well as pharynx and esophageal cancers. It also protects against breast cancer and cancer of the mouth, according to studies published by the Harvard School of Public Health.
Rich Source of Vitamins and Minerals: A single tomato can provide about 40% of the daily vitamin C requirement. Vitamin C is a natural antioxidant which prevents against cancer-causing free radicals from damaging the body’s systems. It also contains abundant vitamin A and potassium, as well as iron. Potassium plays a vital role in maintaining nerve health and iron is essential for maintaining normal blood health. Vitamin K, which is essential in blood clotting and controls bleeding, is also abundant in tomatoes.
Reduces Cholesterol and Protects the Heart: The lycopene in tomatoes prevents serum lipid oxidation, thus exerting a protective effect against cardiovascular diseases. The regular consumption of tomatoes has been proven to decrease the levels of LDL cholesterol and triglycerides in the blood. These lipids are the key culprits in cardiovascular diseases and lead to the deposition of fats in the blood vessels.
Counters the Effect of Cigarette Smoke: The two main components of tomatoes, coumaric acid and chlorogenic acid, fight against nitrosamines which are produced in the body and are the main carcinogens found in cigarettes. The presence of vitamin A in such high quantities has also been shown to reduce the effects of carcinogens and can protect you against lung cancer.
Improves Vision: Vitamin A, present in tomatoes, aids in improving vision, as well as in preventing night-blindness and macular degeneration. Vitamin A is a powerful antioxidant that can be formed from an excess of beta-carotene in the body. A lot of vision problems occur due to the negative effects of free radicals, and vitamin A is a powerful antioxidant.
Digestive Health: Tomatoes keep the digestive system healthy by preventing both constipation and diarrhea. It also prevents jaundice and effectively removes toxins from the body. Furthermore, tomatoes have a large amount of fiber, which can bulk up stool and reduce symptoms of constipation. A healthy amount of fiber helps to stimulate peristaltic motion in the smooth digestive muscles, and also release gastric and digestive juices. This can regulate your bowel movements, thereby improving your overall digestive health and helping you avoid conditions like colorectal cancer.
Lowers Hypertension: Daily consumption of tomatoes reduces the risk of developing hypertension, also known as high blood pressure. This is partially due to the impressive levels of potassium found in tomatoes. Potassium is a vasodilator, meaning that it reduces the tension in blood vessels and arteries, thereby increasing circulation and lowering the stress on the heart by eliminating hypertension.
Manages Diabetes: A study conducted by the Journal of the American Medical Association shows that daily consumption of tomatoes reduces the oxidative stress of type 2 diabetes.
Healthy Skin: Tomatoes aid in maintaining healthy teeth, bones, hair and skin. Topical application of tomato juice is even known to cure severe sunburns. Daily consumption of tomatoes protects the skin against UV-induced erythema. Tomatoes rank high in the preparation of anti-aging products.
Prevents Urinary Tract Infections: Tomato intake also reduces the incidence of urinary tract infections, as well as bladder cancer. This is because tomatoes are high in water content, which can stimulate urination, so tomatoes are a diuretic in certain ways. This increases the elimination of toxins from the body, as well as excess water, salts, uric acid, and some fat as well!
Prevents Gallstones: Regular consumption of tomatoes can also provide relief from gallbladder disease such as gallstones. There have been various studies to prove the efficacy of tomatoes against many chronic diseases and varieties of cancer. The antioxidant properties of tomatoes can also be derived from processed foods, including tomatoes found in ketchup and purees. Daily consumption of tomatoes fulfills the daily requirement of vitamins and minerals and exerts an overall protective effect on the body.
Abundant Source of Antioxidants: Tomato contains large amount of lycopene, an antioxidant that is highly effective in scavenging cancer causing free radicals. This benefit can even be obtained from heat-processed tomato products like ketchup. The lycopene in tomatoes defends against cancer and has been shown to be particularly effective in fighting prostate cancer, cervical cancer, cancer of the stomach and rectum as well as pharynx and esophageal cancers. It also protects against breast cancer and cancer of the mouth, according to studies published by the Harvard School of Public Health.
Rich Source of Vitamins and Minerals: A single tomato can provide about 40% of the daily vitamin C requirement. Vitamin C is a natural antioxidant which prevents against cancer-causing free radicals from damaging the body’s systems. It also contains abundant vitamin A and potassium, as well as iron. Potassium plays a vital role in maintaining nerve health and iron is essential for maintaining normal blood health. Vitamin K, which is essential in blood clotting and controls bleeding, is also abundant in tomatoes.
Reduces Cholesterol and Protects the Heart: The lycopene in tomatoes prevents serum lipid oxidation, thus exerting a protective effect against cardiovascular diseases. The regular consumption of tomatoes has been proven to decrease the levels of LDL cholesterol and triglycerides in the blood. These lipids are the key culprits in cardiovascular diseases and lead to the deposition of fats in the blood vessels.
Counters the Effect of Cigarette Smoke: The two main components of tomatoes, coumaric acid and chlorogenic acid, fight against nitrosamines which are produced in the body and are the main carcinogens found in cigarettes. The presence of vitamin A in such high quantities has also been shown to reduce the effects of carcinogens and can protect you against lung cancer.
Improves Vision: Vitamin A, present in tomatoes, aids in improving vision, as well as in preventing night-blindness and macular degeneration. Vitamin A is a powerful antioxidant that can be formed from an excess of beta-carotene in the body. A lot of vision problems occur due to the negative effects of free radicals, and vitamin A is a powerful antioxidant.
Digestive Health: Tomatoes keep the digestive system healthy by preventing both constipation and diarrhea. It also prevents jaundice and effectively removes toxins from the body. Furthermore, tomatoes have a large amount of fiber, which can bulk up stool and reduce symptoms of constipation. A healthy amount of fiber helps to stimulate peristaltic motion in the smooth digestive muscles, and also release gastric and digestive juices. This can regulate your bowel movements, thereby improving your overall digestive health and helping you avoid conditions like colorectal cancer.
Lowers Hypertension: Daily consumption of tomatoes reduces the risk of developing hypertension, also known as high blood pressure. This is partially due to the impressive levels of potassium found in tomatoes. Potassium is a vasodilator, meaning that it reduces the tension in blood vessels and arteries, thereby increasing circulation and lowering the stress on the heart by eliminating hypertension.
Manages Diabetes: A study conducted by the Journal of the American Medical Association shows that daily consumption of tomatoes reduces the oxidative stress of type 2 diabetes.
Healthy Skin: Tomatoes aid in maintaining healthy teeth, bones, hair and skin. Topical application of tomato juice is even known to cure severe sunburns. Daily consumption of tomatoes protects the skin against UV-induced erythema. Tomatoes rank high in the preparation of anti-aging products.
Prevents Urinary Tract Infections: Tomato intake also reduces the incidence of urinary tract infections, as well as bladder cancer. This is because tomatoes are high in water content, which can stimulate urination, so tomatoes are a diuretic in certain ways. This increases the elimination of toxins from the body, as well as excess water, salts, uric acid, and some fat as well!
Prevents Gallstones: Regular consumption of tomatoes can also provide relief from gallbladder disease such as gallstones. There have been various studies to prove the efficacy of tomatoes against many chronic diseases and varieties of cancer. The antioxidant properties of tomatoes can also be derived from processed foods, including tomatoes found in ketchup and purees. Daily consumption of tomatoes fulfills the daily requirement of vitamins and minerals and exerts an overall protective effect on the body.
The strong aroma of this plant is said to repel insects from nearby plants. A semi-drying oil is obtained from the seed. It can be used in making soap. A spray made from tomato leaves is an effective but very poisonous insecticide. It is especially effective against ants but should be used with great caution because it will also kill beneficial insects and, if ingested, is toxic to humans. The pulp of the fruit is used cosmetically in face-packs.