(Capsicum chinense 'Habanada')
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Habanada Pepper is a heirloom, very tender, warm weather annual vegetable that was bred by Michael Mazourek at Cornell University in Ithaca, York. At maturity, this plant reaches the height of 12-28” and features 2-2 1/2" heatless smooth, irregularly shaped peppers that ripen from white to green, gold, and bright orange when fully mature. This plant can be grown in a container, tolerates drought, is rabbit safe, and is edible!
Family: Solanaceae
Genus: Capsicum
Species: chinense
Variety: Habanada Pepper
Native to: Ithaca, New York
Breeder: Michael Mazourek at Cornell University
Ease of Growing: Moderate
Grown as: Annual
Days to Maturity: 70-100 days
Growing Habit: Bush
Hardiness: Very Tender. Very tender, they can't stand cold weather or frost.
Crops: Spring Transplant
Growing Season: Long
Growing Conditions: Warm, Hot. Peppers originated in the tropical highlands of Central and South America and grow best with warm (70 to 80˚ F) days, cool (55 to 65˚ F) nights and high humidity. If the soil gets above 85˚ F you can cool the soil by applying mulch and watering frequently with cold water.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 60°F - 95°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 65°F. The soil must be warm (at least 65° F). If necessary you could use black plastic mulch to hasten warming.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: No
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Warm, Hot). Full sun. In very hot climates they may benefit from light shade.
Water: Moderate. Pepper plants are somewhat drought tolerant (especially Hot Peppers), but lack of water can affect fruiting, so they should be kept moist for best production. Drip irrigation works well with Peppers. Sweet Peppers are particularly vulnerable to water stress when fruiting, so keep the soil evenly moist. If not given enough water, the fruits can develop a slightly bitter flavor (and may get Blossom End Rot). Don't leave water on the leaves overnight as this encourages disease.
Feeder: Heavy. Low nitrogen. High potassium. High phosphorus. Peppers are fairly hungry plants and require lots of phosphorus and potassium, but not too much nitrogen (which may result in big vigorous plants, but few fruits).
Suitability: Needs summer shade
Small Gardens?: Yes.
Containers?: Yes, but will need a large one, like a half wine barrel. Choose a container at least 16" in diameter. A container with drainage holes is a necessity in order to successfully grow peppers. Cover the holes with weed cloth, newspaper or any other similar material and then fill with potting soil. Peppers love warm weather and will not thrive if temperatures are either too cold or too hot. Place peppers in full sun in warm climates, but be sure they have access to shade in hot temperatures. Keep well-watered. Stake to keep fruit off the ground, mulch for disease and weed control.
Attracts beneficial insects?: No
Maintenance: Medium
Height: 24-36"
Spacing: 12-18"
Sow Depth: 1/4"
Hardiness Zone: 4-12
Produces: Heatless smooth, irregularly shaped peppers that ripen from white to green, gold, and bright orange when fully mature
Scoville Heat Units: 0
Genus: Capsicum
Species: chinense
Variety: Habanada Pepper
Native to: Ithaca, New York
Breeder: Michael Mazourek at Cornell University
Ease of Growing: Moderate
Grown as: Annual
Days to Maturity: 70-100 days
Growing Habit: Bush
Hardiness: Very Tender. Very tender, they can't stand cold weather or frost.
Crops: Spring Transplant
Growing Season: Long
Growing Conditions: Warm, Hot. Peppers originated in the tropical highlands of Central and South America and grow best with warm (70 to 80˚ F) days, cool (55 to 65˚ F) nights and high humidity. If the soil gets above 85˚ F you can cool the soil by applying mulch and watering frequently with cold water.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 60°F - 95°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 65°F. The soil must be warm (at least 65° F). If necessary you could use black plastic mulch to hasten warming.
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: No
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Warm, Hot). Full sun. In very hot climates they may benefit from light shade.
Water: Moderate. Pepper plants are somewhat drought tolerant (especially Hot Peppers), but lack of water can affect fruiting, so they should be kept moist for best production. Drip irrigation works well with Peppers. Sweet Peppers are particularly vulnerable to water stress when fruiting, so keep the soil evenly moist. If not given enough water, the fruits can develop a slightly bitter flavor (and may get Blossom End Rot). Don't leave water on the leaves overnight as this encourages disease.
Feeder: Heavy. Low nitrogen. High potassium. High phosphorus. Peppers are fairly hungry plants and require lots of phosphorus and potassium, but not too much nitrogen (which may result in big vigorous plants, but few fruits).
Suitability: Needs summer shade
Small Gardens?: Yes.
Containers?: Yes, but will need a large one, like a half wine barrel. Choose a container at least 16" in diameter. A container with drainage holes is a necessity in order to successfully grow peppers. Cover the holes with weed cloth, newspaper or any other similar material and then fill with potting soil. Peppers love warm weather and will not thrive if temperatures are either too cold or too hot. Place peppers in full sun in warm climates, but be sure they have access to shade in hot temperatures. Keep well-watered. Stake to keep fruit off the ground, mulch for disease and weed control.
Attracts beneficial insects?: No
Maintenance: Medium
Height: 24-36"
Spacing: 12-18"
Sow Depth: 1/4"
Hardiness Zone: 4-12
Produces: Heatless smooth, irregularly shaped peppers that ripen from white to green, gold, and bright orange when fully mature
Scoville Heat Units: 0
Soil Preparation
Soil Preparation:
Black plastic, 1 layer, to warm soil, 1 time: OPTIONAL: The soil must be warm (at least 65˚ F) before these tender plants are set out. If necessary, you could use black plastic mulch to hasten warming. You can also make slits in the plastic for planting and leave the the mulch there to keep the soil warm, moist and weed free while growing the peppers.
Standard Mix, 1 cup per plant, after planting, 1 time: Standard mix will supply additional potassium, phosphorous and other nutrients. It should be incorporated into the the planting hole along with the compost. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Compost (Nitrogen), 2 cups per plant, after planting, 1 time: Add 2 cups of compost or aged manure into the planting hole (along with the Standard Mix).
Black plastic, 1 layer, to warm soil, 1 time: OPTIONAL: The soil must be warm (at least 65˚ F) before these tender plants are set out. If necessary, you could use black plastic mulch to hasten warming. You can also make slits in the plastic for planting and leave the the mulch there to keep the soil warm, moist and weed free while growing the peppers.
Standard Mix, 1 cup per plant, after planting, 1 time: Standard mix will supply additional potassium, phosphorous and other nutrients. It should be incorporated into the the planting hole along with the compost. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
- 4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
- 2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
- 2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
- 1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
- 1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Compost (Nitrogen), 2 cups per plant, after planting, 1 time: Add 2 cups of compost or aged manure into the planting hole (along with the Standard Mix).
Start Indoors
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.25" to 0.5". Sow the seed 1/4" deep in cool soil and 1/2" deep in warm soil.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 95°F, optimal 65°F to 90°F, optimal 85°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 10 to 10 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 6-8 weeks before last frost date. Peppers need to be started early because they are slow to get going. They are generally one of the last crops to be planted out in late spring, a couple of weeks after Tomatoes (4 weeks after the last frost). Peppers are one of the hardest of the common vegetable crops to raise successfully from seed, as they need quite warm temperatures for fastest growth. Pepper seeds germinate best at a temperature of 85˚ F, which is higher than almost any common crop.
1. Soaking the seed overnight is said to help by removing germination inhibitors and so may speed germination. It is sometimes recommended that before planting you soak the seeds in a 10% bleach solution, for 10 minutes, to kill any disease spores (it should then be rinsed to remove the bleach). It is said that this treatment may also speed germination by several days.
2. Plant the seeds in a flat (they don’t mind transplanting) or in cell packs or soil blocks.
3. It is a good idea to water them with tepid water to avoid cooling them.
Harden Off: 2-3 weeks after last frost date. If you are planting Peppers out in cool spring conditions, they should be hardened off carefully. Do this slowly over a week, by reducing the amount of water they get and by leaving them outside for longer periods each day. This helps them to get accustomed to the somewhat less than ideal conditions to be found outside. In warm summer weather there is no need to harden them off. However you may want to keep them outside in the shade for a few days, so they don’t get sunburned when planted out.
Soil temp for germination: 60°F to 95°F, optimal 65°F to 90°F, optimal 85°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 10 to 10 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 6-8 weeks before last frost date. Peppers need to be started early because they are slow to get going. They are generally one of the last crops to be planted out in late spring, a couple of weeks after Tomatoes (4 weeks after the last frost). Peppers are one of the hardest of the common vegetable crops to raise successfully from seed, as they need quite warm temperatures for fastest growth. Pepper seeds germinate best at a temperature of 85˚ F, which is higher than almost any common crop.
1. Soaking the seed overnight is said to help by removing germination inhibitors and so may speed germination. It is sometimes recommended that before planting you soak the seeds in a 10% bleach solution, for 10 minutes, to kill any disease spores (it should then be rinsed to remove the bleach). It is said that this treatment may also speed germination by several days.
2. Plant the seeds in a flat (they don’t mind transplanting) or in cell packs or soil blocks.
3. It is a good idea to water them with tepid water to avoid cooling them.
Harden Off: 2-3 weeks after last frost date. If you are planting Peppers out in cool spring conditions, they should be hardened off carefully. Do this slowly over a week, by reducing the amount of water they get and by leaving them outside for longer periods each day. This helps them to get accustomed to the somewhat less than ideal conditions to be found outside. In warm summer weather there is no need to harden them off. However you may want to keep them outside in the shade for a few days, so they don’t get sunburned when planted out.
Transplant Outdoors
4 weeks after last frost date:
1. Good transplants should be about 6˝ tall when they go outside.
2. The soil must be warm (at least 65˚ F) before these tender plants are set out.
Warm, Hot: Peppers originated in the tropical highlands of Central and South America and grow best with warm (70 to 80˚ F) days, cool (55 to 65˚ F) nights and high humidity. If the soil gets above 85˚ F you can cool the soil by applying mulch and watering frequently with cold water.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 65°F. The soil must be warm (at least 65° F). If necessary you could use black plastic mulch to hasten warming.
Spacing: 10-12", 1 plants per sq ft. Intensive: Space Peppers 8" apart.
Rows: Space the plants 10 to 12" apart, with 24" between the rows. Depending on the variety of peppers, use the recommended plants per square foot. If you find your plants are too crowded you can transplant while they are still small with additional space between plants.
Support: No. Though staking isn't usually needed, it is sometimes helpful to keep the plants upright and to keep fruit off the ground. If your plants start to lean you should put in a sturdy stake several inches away from stem.
1. Good transplants should be about 6˝ tall when they go outside.
2. The soil must be warm (at least 65˚ F) before these tender plants are set out.
Warm, Hot: Peppers originated in the tropical highlands of Central and South America and grow best with warm (70 to 80˚ F) days, cool (55 to 65˚ F) nights and high humidity. If the soil gets above 85˚ F you can cool the soil by applying mulch and watering frequently with cold water.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 95°F, optimal temp 70°F to 85°F
When min soil temp: 65°F. The soil must be warm (at least 65° F). If necessary you could use black plastic mulch to hasten warming.
Spacing: 10-12", 1 plants per sq ft. Intensive: Space Peppers 8" apart.
Rows: Space the plants 10 to 12" apart, with 24" between the rows. Depending on the variety of peppers, use the recommended plants per square foot. If you find your plants are too crowded you can transplant while they are still small with additional space between plants.
Support: No. Though staking isn't usually needed, it is sometimes helpful to keep the plants upright and to keep fruit off the ground. If your plants start to lean you should put in a sturdy stake several inches away from stem.
All Peppers like a warm, sunny and sheltered spot. They originated in the tropical highlands of Central and South America and grow best with warm (70 to 80˚ F) days, cool (55 to 70˚ F) nights and high humidity.
Water Needs: Moderate. Pepper plants are somewhat drought tolerant (especially Hot Peppers), but lack of water can affect fruiting, so they should be kept moist for best production. Drip irrigation works well with Peppers. Sweet Peppers are particularly vulnerable to water stress when fruiting, so keep the soil evenly moist. If not given enough water, the fruits can develop a slightly bitter flavor (and may get Blossom End Rot). Don't leave water on the leaves overnight as this encourages disease.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Low nitrogen. High potassium. High phosphorus. Peppers are fairly hungry plants and require lots of phosphorus and potassium, but not too much nitrogen (which may result in big vigorous plants, but few fruits).
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Compost tea, 2 cups per plant, after transplanting, every 3 weeks. It’s a good idea to feed the plants with compost tea or liquid kelp, after they have recovered from transplanting. After that, give the plants a regular feeding of compost tea every 3 weeks, and be sure to do so when flowering and producing fruit.
Pruning, when 6" tall: when 6" tall, 1 time. Some gardeners pinch out the growing tip when the plant is about 6" tall to encourage bushy, branching growth.
Watering, before flowering: Water, 3 quarts, before flowering, 2 times a week. The plants should be given all the water they need on a regular basis. This means checking the soil every few days and watering until it is thoroughly moist. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 1" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, at flowering: Mulch, 2 inches, at flowering, 1 time. Mulch is helpful to conserve moisture and to keep down weeds around these shallow rooted crops. Be aware that mulch insulates the soil, so don’t apply it until the soil is warm (65ºF to depth of 4"). Ideally wait until the plants are flowering.
Watering, after flowering: Water, 3 quarts, after flowering, 2 times a week. The plants must never be short of water while they are flowering and producing fruit. Make sure the soil is constantly moist, as they have a greater need for water at this time.
Support: No. Though staking isn't usually needed, it is sometimes helpful to keep the plants upright and to keep fruit off the ground. If your plants start to lean you should put in a sturdy stake several inches away from stem.
Water Needs: Moderate. Pepper plants are somewhat drought tolerant (especially Hot Peppers), but lack of water can affect fruiting, so they should be kept moist for best production. Drip irrigation works well with Peppers. Sweet Peppers are particularly vulnerable to water stress when fruiting, so keep the soil evenly moist. If not given enough water, the fruits can develop a slightly bitter flavor (and may get Blossom End Rot). Don't leave water on the leaves overnight as this encourages disease.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. Low nitrogen. High potassium. High phosphorus. Peppers are fairly hungry plants and require lots of phosphorus and potassium, but not too much nitrogen (which may result in big vigorous plants, but few fruits).
Side Dressing, after transplanting: Compost tea, 2 cups per plant, after transplanting, every 3 weeks. It’s a good idea to feed the plants with compost tea or liquid kelp, after they have recovered from transplanting. After that, give the plants a regular feeding of compost tea every 3 weeks, and be sure to do so when flowering and producing fruit.
Pruning, when 6" tall: when 6" tall, 1 time. Some gardeners pinch out the growing tip when the plant is about 6" tall to encourage bushy, branching growth.
Watering, before flowering: Water, 3 quarts, before flowering, 2 times a week. The plants should be given all the water they need on a regular basis. This means checking the soil every few days and watering until it is thoroughly moist. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 1" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, at flowering: Mulch, 2 inches, at flowering, 1 time. Mulch is helpful to conserve moisture and to keep down weeds around these shallow rooted crops. Be aware that mulch insulates the soil, so don’t apply it until the soil is warm (65ºF to depth of 4"). Ideally wait until the plants are flowering.
Watering, after flowering: Water, 3 quarts, after flowering, 2 times a week. The plants must never be short of water while they are flowering and producing fruit. Make sure the soil is constantly moist, as they have a greater need for water at this time.
Support: No. Though staking isn't usually needed, it is sometimes helpful to keep the plants upright and to keep fruit off the ground. If your plants start to lean you should put in a sturdy stake several inches away from stem.
Harvesting
Ripening:
Habanada peppers ripen in around 80-90 days.
When: Fruits can be harvested green, but to reach Habanada's flavor potential, harvest when the 2-3” fruit turn orange
Habanada peppers ripen in around 80-90 days.
When: Fruits can be harvested green, but to reach Habanada's flavor potential, harvest when the 2-3” fruit turn orange
It's easy to save Pepper seed (so long as it is open pollinated and not a hybrid), just allow the fruits to ripen fully, then scrape out the seeds from the fruit before you eat it. Even the seed from green fruits may be viable, if not as good. Wear gloves when collecting seeds from hot peppers.
Though Peppers are mostly self-pollinated, they do cross-pollinate to some extent. To ensure purity you should just have one variety flowering at a time, or (if your garden is big enough) you should isolate them by 500 feet. You could also isolate them under row covers. Ideally you should have a minimum of 5 plants to ensure genetic variation.
Dry the seed thoroughly and store in a cool dry place. You must store Pepper seed carefully if it is to remain in good condition, ideally as close to freezing as possible, but not below.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-4 years
Germination Percentage: 55%
Though Peppers are mostly self-pollinated, they do cross-pollinate to some extent. To ensure purity you should just have one variety flowering at a time, or (if your garden is big enough) you should isolate them by 500 feet. You could also isolate them under row covers. Ideally you should have a minimum of 5 plants to ensure genetic variation.
Dry the seed thoroughly and store in a cool dry place. You must store Pepper seed carefully if it is to remain in good condition, ideally as close to freezing as possible, but not below.
Seed Viability in Years: 2-4 years
Germination Percentage: 55%
Culinary
Taste:
Some say it has a citrus flavor, while others cite floral notes or even a hint of guava.
Culinary:
Habanada is excellent pepper to be roasted, used in soups, and much more. It’s also fantastic raw, making it an exceptional snacking pepper that can be used in salads, salsas, and on sandwiches!
Some say it has a citrus flavor, while others cite floral notes or even a hint of guava.
Culinary:
Habanada is excellent pepper to be roasted, used in soups, and much more. It’s also fantastic raw, making it an exceptional snacking pepper that can be used in salads, salsas, and on sandwiches!
Companion Planting
Plant peppers near tomatoes, parsley, basil, geraniums, marjoram, lovage, petunia and carrots. Onions make an excellent companion plant for peppers. They do quite well with okra as it shelters them and protects the brittle stems from wind.
Peppers can double as ornamentals, so tuck some into flowerbeds and borders.
Don't plant them near fennel or kohlrabi. They should also not be grown near apricot trees because a fungus that the pepper is prone to can cause a lot of harm to the apricot tree.
Peppers can double as ornamentals, so tuck some into flowerbeds and borders.
Don't plant them near fennel or kohlrabi. They should also not be grown near apricot trees because a fungus that the pepper is prone to can cause a lot of harm to the apricot tree.
Pests
Potential pests include aphids, white flies, cutworms, and Colorado potato beetles. Diseases include Verticillium wilt and mosaic virus.
Aphids
Beneficial insects such as Ladybugs, Collops Beetle, Soldier Beetles, Long-legged Flies, Hover Flies, Predaceous Midges, Damsel Bugs, Big-eyed Bugs, Minute Pirate Bugs, Lacewings, Parasitic Wasps, Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.
Ladybeetles, Ladybugs, or Ladybird Beetles: Ladybeetles are probably the most well-known of beetles that eat aphids. There are many species, and both the adults and larvae eat aphids. Convergent lady beetles and the seven-spotted ladybeetles are abundant species in the environment. Eggs are found in clutches, yellow and football shaped. Larvae have an alligator-like appearance, and are black with orange markings. Pupae are sedentary. Ladybeetles are commercially available but purchasing is not generally recommended since the adult stage tends to fly away once released. Introductions may be more effective in greenhouses and high tunnels. Diverse plantings can help recruit resident ladybeetles to an area.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two
abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), \Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum),
Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white
sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two
abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), \Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum),
Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia), Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white
sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
Whiteflies
Beneficial insects such as ladybugs, green lacewings, and big-eyed bugs all prey on whiteflies.
Ladybug: Preys on Aphids, Cabbage loopers, Leafhoppers, Whitefly, Spider mites, Fleas, Mealybug, and Colorado potato beetles.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
Big-eyed Bugs: Preys on Aphids, small Caterpillars and Caterpillar eggs, Flea beetles, Fleahoppers, Lygus bugs, Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies.
To attract Big-Eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
Big-eyed Bugs: Preys on Aphids, small Caterpillars and Caterpillar eggs, Flea beetles, Fleahoppers, Lygus bugs, Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies.
To attract Big-Eyed Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Cutworms
Beneficial insects such as Ground Beetles, Tachinid Flies, Braconid Wasps, Spiders, Minute Pirate Bugs, Damsel Bugs, Lacewing Larvae, and Birds all prey on Cutworms.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Spiders: Prey on a wide range including bed bugs, aphids, roaches, grasshoppers, cabbage looper, and fruit flies.
To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving spiders, mulch for predatory spiders.
Minute Pirate Bugs: Preys on spider mites, cabbage looper, insect eggs, caterpillars, aphids, thrips
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Damsel Bugs: Prey on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Potato Beetles, and Cabbage Worms.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Spiders: Prey on a wide range including bed bugs, aphids, roaches, grasshoppers, cabbage looper, and fruit flies.
To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving spiders, mulch for predatory spiders.
Minute Pirate Bugs: Preys on spider mites, cabbage looper, insect eggs, caterpillars, aphids, thrips
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Damsel Bugs: Prey on Caterpillars, Mites, Aphids, Potato Beetles, and Cabbage Worms.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, and Caterpillars of pest moths.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
Colorado Potato Beetles
Beneficial insects such as ladybugs, spined soldier bugs, lacewing, and several species of tiny parasitic wasps all prey on Colorado Potato Beetles.
Ladybug: Preys on Aphids, Cabbage loopers, Leafhoppers, Whitefly, Spider mites, Fleas, Mealybug, and Colorado potato beetles.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Spined Soldier Bugs: Prey on larvae of Mexican bean beetle, European corn borer, diamondback moth, corn earworm, beet armyworm, fall armyworm, cabbage looper, imported cabbageworm, Colorado potato beetle, velvetbean caterpillar, and flea beetles
To attract Spined Soldier Bugs to your garden try growing: Alfalfa, Apples, Asparagus, Beans, Celery, Cotton, Crucifers, Cucurbits, Onions, Potatoes, Soybeans, Sweet Corn and Tomatoes.
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Spined Soldier Bugs: Prey on larvae of Mexican bean beetle, European corn borer, diamondback moth, corn earworm, beet armyworm, fall armyworm, cabbage looper, imported cabbageworm, Colorado potato beetle, velvetbean caterpillar, and flea beetles
To attract Spined Soldier Bugs to your garden try growing: Alfalfa, Apples, Asparagus, Beans, Celery, Cotton, Crucifers, Cucurbits, Onions, Potatoes, Soybeans, Sweet Corn and Tomatoes.
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
Suggested Varieties
(Amaranthus caudatus 'Love, Lies, Bleeding')
Love, Lies, Bleeding Amaranth is a heirloom annual leaf vegetable that is native to South America, but can be commonly found growing in gardens throughout the United States. At maturity, this plant reaches the height of 2-4' and features erect, deep red stems, 6” oval, light green leaves and 12” bright red, drooping tassels. This plant can be grown in containers or hanging baskets, attracts bees and butterflies, tolerates drought, is used to make dye, self sows, is both edible and medicinal, and is great as a cut flower!
(Amaranthus tricolor 'Perfecta')
Only a few left!
Perfecta Amaranth is a heirloom upright, busy annual leaf vegetable that is native to India and tropical Asia, but can be commonly found growing in gardens throughout the United States. At maturity, this plant reaches the height of 2-4' and feature s erect stems, 10” oval-shaped, green to purple leaves that have yellow and red blotches, and 1” green to red flowers. This plant can be grown in containers, attracts bees and butterflies, tolerates drought, is edible, and its foliage is a addition to cut flowers!
(Amaranthus cruentus 'Red Garnet')
Red garnet Amaranth is a heirloom, warm weather annual leaf vegetable that is native to Mexico and South America, but can be commonly found growing in gardens throughout the United States. At maturity, this plant reaches the height of 6-7' and features erect stems, oval-shaped, burgundy red leaves, and large dark red flower spikes. This plant can be grown in containers, attracts bees, birds, and butterflies, tolerates drought, and it's edible!
(Melissa officinalis ‘Lemon Balm’)
Lemon Balm is a perennial herb that is native to Southern Europe but can be commonly found growing throughout the northwestern, southcentral, and eastern United States. At maturity, this plant reaches a height of 2' and features 3” oval, medium green, wrinkled, lemon-scented leaves, and tiny white flowers that have two lips. This plant can be grown in a container, attracts bees, birds, butterflies, hoverflies, parasitic wasps, and tachinid flies, repels ants and flies, is resistant to deer, tolerates drought, is used to make essential oils and potpourri, self-sows, and is also both edible and medicinal!
(Ocimum basilicum 'Cinnamon')
Cinnamon Basil is an annual herb native to India and Asia but grows in gardens throughout the United States. At maturity, this plant reaches 18-30” tall and features dark purple stems, narrow, dark green, slightly serrated leaves, and small pink flowers. This plant can be grown in a container, attracts bees and butterflies, is rabbit safe, repels flies, mosquitoes, and thrips, is resistant to deer, is used to make essential oils, liquid plant food, and mosquito repellent, self-sows, is both edible and medicinal, and is used as a cut flower!
(Ocimum basilicum 'Clove Scented')
Clove Scented Basil is an annual herb that is native to India and Asia but can be commonly found growing in gardens throughout the United States. At maturity, this plant reaches the height of 18-24” and features clove-scented green leaves and clusters of tiny white flowers. This plant can be grown in a container, attracts bees and butterflies, is rabbit safe, repels flies, mosquitoes, and thrips, is resistant to deer, is used to make essential oils and mosquito repellent, is both edible and medicinal, and is great as a cut flower!
(Ocimum basilicum ‘Italian Large Leaf’)
Italian Large Leaf Basil is an annual herb native to India and Asia but grows in gardens throughout the United States. At maturity, this plant reaches 18-30” in height and features 3" dark green leaves and clusters of tiny pink flowers. This plant can be grown in a container, attracts bees and butterflies, is rabbit safe, repels flies, mosquitoes, and thrips, is resistant to deer, is used to make essential oils and mosquito repellent, is edible and medicinal, and is used as a cut flower!
(Ocimum basilicum ‘Lemon’)
Lemon Basil is an annual herb that is native to India and Asia but can be commonly found growing in gardens throughout the United States. At maturity, this plant reaches a height of 12-18” and features lemon-scented, pointed green leaves and clusters of white flowers. This plant can be grown in a container, attracts bees and butterflies, is rabbit safe, repels flies, mosquitoes, and thrips, is resistant to deer, is used to make essential oils and mosquito repellent, is both edible and medicinal, and is used as a cut flower!
(Ocimum basilicum ‘Lime’)
Lime Basil is an annual herb native to India and Asia but grows in gardens throughout the United States. At maturity, this plant reaches a height of 18-24” and features medium green, citrus-scented leaves and spikes of white flowers. This plant can be grown in a container, attracts bees and butterflies, is rabbit safe, repels flies, mosquitoes, and thrips, is resistant to deer, is used to make essential oils and mosquito repellent, is edible and medicinal, and is used as a cut flower!
(Ocimum basilicum ‘Purple Ruffles’)
Purple Ruffles Basil is a native annual herb that grows in gardens throughout the United States. At maturity, this plant reaches 18-24” tall and features ruffled, dark purple leaves, maroon stems, and spikes of bright fuchsia flowers. This plant can be grown in a container, attracts bees and butterflies, is rabbit safe, repels flies, mosquitoes, and thrips, is resistant to deer, is used to make essential oils and mosquito repellent, is edible and medicinal, and is used as a cut flower!
(Ocimum basilicum ‘Spicy Globe’)
Spicy Globe Basil is an annual herb native to India and Asia but grows in gardens throughout the United States. At maturity, this plant reaches a height of 8-14” and features 1/4-1" light green leaves and white flowers. This plant can be grown in a container, attracts bees and butterflies, is rabbit safe, repels flies, mosquitoes, and thrips, is resistant to deer, is used to make essential oils and mosquito repellent, is both edible and medicinal, and is used as a cut flower!
(Ocimum basilicum ‘Sweet’)
Sweet Basil is an annual herb native to India and Asia but grows in gardens throughout the United States. At maturity, this plant reaches 24-30” tall and features medium green leaves and spikes of white or pale pink flowers. This plant can be grown in a container, attracts bees and butterflies, is rabbit safe, repels flies, mosquitoes, and thrips, is resistant to deer, is used to make essential oils and mosquito repellent, is both edible and medicinal, and is used as a cut flower!