(Cucurbita argyrosperma 'Cushaw Green Striped')
SKU:
$1.00
$1.00 - $2.00
$1.00
per item
Cushaw Green Striped Pumpkin is a heirloom, very tender, warm weather annual vegetable that is native to Southern Mexico, but has been growing in gardens throughout the United States since the early 1800's. At maturity, the vines of this plant reaches the length of 10-25' and features cream and green striped, long necked pumpkins with pale orange flesh averaging 10-20 lbs. This plant attracts bees is rabbit safe, and is both edible and medicinal!
Family: Cucurbitaceae
Genus: Cucurbita
Species: argyrosperma
Variety: Cushaw Green Striped Pumpkin
Native to: El Salvador, Guatemala, Mexico Gulf, Mexico Northeast, Mexico Northwest, Mexico Southeast, Mexico Southwest, Nicaragua.
Introduced into: Costa Rica, Mexico Central, Panamá.
Grown as: Annual
Maturity: 110 days
Growing Habit: Vine
Hardiness: Tender. Pumpkins are quite frost tender and can't be planted until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up. Don't put them out before the temperature reaches 65˚ F daily.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Summer
Growing Season: Long
Growing Conditions: Warm, Hot. Pumpkins are sprawling plants, notorious for taking up a lot of room; so do not plant them in the middle of the intensive garden. They occupy a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages, but then of course they cast a considerable amount of shade. Generally it is best to plant them in hills at the edge of the garden and let them run off into unused space. The site of an old compost pile by a wire fence is perfect. Once established they can compete with almost any plant, so long as their roots are in good soil and they are well fed and watered.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 60°F - 90°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 65°F. Don’t plant out until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up and the temperature reaches 65° F daily (when the Apple trees blossom.)
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Warm, Hot). Full sun.
Water: High. The plants need an evenly moist soil for maximum productivity. The best way to water Pumpkin is with drip irrigation, or a soaker hose used near the soil, as wet foliage can easily lead to fungus diseases.
Feeder: Heavy. High nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Pumpkin have a very vigorous root system, which may dig 6' underground in its search for nutrients.
Suitability: High heat, Needs lots of space
Small Gardens?: No
Containers?: No
Attracts beneficial insects?: Yes. Pumpkin flowers attract bees.
Forage: Rabbits.
Height: 10-25'
Sow Depth: 1/2"
Spacing: 8-10"
Produces: cream and green striped, long necked pumpkins with pale orange flesh averaging 10-20 lbs.
USDA Hardiness Zones: 3-12
Genus: Cucurbita
Species: argyrosperma
Variety: Cushaw Green Striped Pumpkin
Native to: El Salvador, Guatemala, Mexico Gulf, Mexico Northeast, Mexico Northwest, Mexico Southeast, Mexico Southwest, Nicaragua.
Introduced into: Costa Rica, Mexico Central, Panamá.
Grown as: Annual
Maturity: 110 days
Growing Habit: Vine
Hardiness: Tender. Pumpkins are quite frost tender and can't be planted until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up. Don't put them out before the temperature reaches 65˚ F daily.
Crops: Spring Transplant, Summer
Growing Season: Long
Growing Conditions: Warm, Hot. Pumpkins are sprawling plants, notorious for taking up a lot of room; so do not plant them in the middle of the intensive garden. They occupy a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages, but then of course they cast a considerable amount of shade. Generally it is best to plant them in hills at the edge of the garden and let them run off into unused space. The site of an old compost pile by a wire fence is perfect. Once established they can compete with almost any plant, so long as their roots are in good soil and they are well fed and watered.
Outdoor Growing Temp: 60°F - 90°F
Min Outdoor Soil Temp: 65°F. Don’t plant out until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up and the temperature reaches 65° F daily (when the Apple trees blossom.)
Start Indoors: Yes
Start Outdoors: Yes
Light: Sun: min. 6 hours daily (Warm, Hot). Full sun.
Water: High. The plants need an evenly moist soil for maximum productivity. The best way to water Pumpkin is with drip irrigation, or a soaker hose used near the soil, as wet foliage can easily lead to fungus diseases.
Feeder: Heavy. High nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Pumpkin have a very vigorous root system, which may dig 6' underground in its search for nutrients.
Suitability: High heat, Needs lots of space
Small Gardens?: No
Containers?: No
Attracts beneficial insects?: Yes. Pumpkin flowers attract bees.
Forage: Rabbits.
Height: 10-25'
Sow Depth: 1/2"
Spacing: 8-10"
Produces: cream and green striped, long necked pumpkins with pale orange flesh averaging 10-20 lbs.
USDA Hardiness Zones: 3-12
Soil Preparation
Soil Preference:
Soil pH: 6.0-7.0, Ideal 6.3-6.5. These are quite hungry plants and need a soil that is loose, fertile, moisture retentive and rich in organic matter. They dislike saline or acidic soils.
Soil Preparation:
Compost (Nitrogen), 2", in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Add 2" of compost, or aged manure, to the top 6˝ of soil, to supply nutrients and to increase the ability of the soil to hold moisture. If the soil is poor you can plant into individually amended holes (you won’t need many). You might also plant in hills, by digging a hole 12˝ deep by 24˝ wide and half filling it with compost. Return all of the soil to the hole to form a small mound or hill.
Standard Mix, 1 cup per plant, in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Standard Mix will supply any additional nutrients and should be incorporated into the top 6˝ of soil for each planting, along with the compost. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Soil pH: 6.0-7.0, Ideal 6.3-6.5. These are quite hungry plants and need a soil that is loose, fertile, moisture retentive and rich in organic matter. They dislike saline or acidic soils.
Soil Preparation:
Compost (Nitrogen), 2", in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Add 2" of compost, or aged manure, to the top 6˝ of soil, to supply nutrients and to increase the ability of the soil to hold moisture. If the soil is poor you can plant into individually amended holes (you won’t need many). You might also plant in hills, by digging a hole 12˝ deep by 24˝ wide and half filling it with compost. Return all of the soil to the hole to form a small mound or hill.
Standard Mix, 1 cup per plant, in top 6" of soil, 1 time: Standard Mix will supply any additional nutrients and should be incorporated into the top 6˝ of soil for each planting, along with the compost. This is a mix of various amendments intended to supply all of the nutrients plants may require. It is usually incorporated into the soil prior to planting. The mix consists of:
- 4 parts cottonseed meal (this is high in nitrogen and relatively inexpensive)
- 2 parts colloidal phosphate or bone meal (for phosphorus)
- 2 parts wood ash or 3 parts greensand or granite dust (for potassium)
- 1 part dolomitic limestone (to balance pH and add calcium and magnesium)
- 1 part kelp meal (for trace elements)
Mix these together thoroughly. You can do this all at once, or you can store them separately and mix as needed.
Start Indoors
Seed Sowing Depth: 0.5" to 2.0". Plant 1/2" in cold soil, and up to 2" in warm soil (where it is more moist).
Soil temp for germination: 65°F to 100°F, optimal 80°F to 95°F, optimal 86°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 14 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 1-2 weeks before last frost date. Pumpkins are usually started indoors, because spring growing weather is often less than ideal and by starting indoors you have stocky little plants ready to put outside. This is better than having to wait for seed to germinate in cold soil.
1. The plants dislike root disturbance, so use 4˝ pots as they allow you some time before the seedlings must be planted out. Plant two seeds in each pot. After they have both emerged, you should remove the inferior one (pinch it off to avoid disturbing the remaining one).
Harden Off: 1-2 weeks after last frost date. Allow the starts to adjust to outdoor temperatures. Place outside for one week before transplanting into their bed.
Soil temp for germination: 65°F to 100°F, optimal 80°F to 95°F, optimal 86°F
Total weeks to grow transplant: 14 (Spring/Summer), (Fall/Winter)
Germinate: 1-2 weeks before last frost date. Pumpkins are usually started indoors, because spring growing weather is often less than ideal and by starting indoors you have stocky little plants ready to put outside. This is better than having to wait for seed to germinate in cold soil.
1. The plants dislike root disturbance, so use 4˝ pots as they allow you some time before the seedlings must be planted out. Plant two seeds in each pot. After they have both emerged, you should remove the inferior one (pinch it off to avoid disturbing the remaining one).
Harden Off: 1-2 weeks after last frost date. Allow the starts to adjust to outdoor temperatures. Place outside for one week before transplanting into their bed.
Transplant Outdoors
2-3 weeks after last frost date: It’s important to plant Pumpkins out as soon as they have 3 leaves. Don’t delay as they will quickly outgrow their pots and get root-bound.
1. Plant them 2" deep
2. Plant them for trellises, hills, or on the ground, left to sprawl.
In hot weather the best ‘hills’ are actually slight depressions, so water moves towards the plants, rather than away from them.
Warm, Hot: Pumpkins are sprawling plants, notorious for taking up a lot of room; so do not plant them in the middle of the intensive garden. They occupy a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages, but then of course they cast a considerable amount of shade. Generally it is best to plant them in hills at the edge of the garden and let them run off into unused space. The site of an old compost pile by a wire fence is perfect. Once established they can compete with almost any plant, so long as their roots are in good soil and they are well fed and watered.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 65°F. Don’t plant out until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up and the temperature reaches 65° F daily (when the Apple trees blossom.)
Spacing: 12-48", (1 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Pumpkins sprawl so much they are usually grown in hills. Sow 2-3 seeds every 2-4' in rows 3-6' apart when danger of frost has passed. Thin to one plant. Can also be sown indoors 2-4 weeks before last frost and transplanted very carefully onto mounds with 2 seedlings per mound.
Support: Optional. The vine takes up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages. A wire fence can work great. This is optional, though, and not necessary (unlike support for Peas Vines or Tomatoes).
1. Plant them 2" deep
2. Plant them for trellises, hills, or on the ground, left to sprawl.
In hot weather the best ‘hills’ are actually slight depressions, so water moves towards the plants, rather than away from them.
Warm, Hot: Pumpkins are sprawling plants, notorious for taking up a lot of room; so do not plant them in the middle of the intensive garden. They occupy a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages, but then of course they cast a considerable amount of shade. Generally it is best to plant them in hills at the edge of the garden and let them run off into unused space. The site of an old compost pile by a wire fence is perfect. Once established they can compete with almost any plant, so long as their roots are in good soil and they are well fed and watered.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 65°F. Don’t plant out until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up and the temperature reaches 65° F daily (when the Apple trees blossom.)
Spacing: 12-48", (1 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Pumpkins sprawl so much they are usually grown in hills. Sow 2-3 seeds every 2-4' in rows 3-6' apart when danger of frost has passed. Thin to one plant. Can also be sown indoors 2-4 weeks before last frost and transplanted very carefully onto mounds with 2 seedlings per mound.
Support: Optional. The vine takes up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages. A wire fence can work great. This is optional, though, and not necessary (unlike support for Peas Vines or Tomatoes).
Start Outdoors
When Warm, Hot: Pumpkins are sprawling plants, notorious for taking up a lot of room; so do not plant them in the middle of the intensive garden. They occupy a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages, but then of course they cast a considerable amount of shade. Generally it is best to plant them in hills at the edge of the garden and let them run off into unused space. The site of an old compost pile by a wire fence is perfect. Once established they can compete with almost any plant, so long as their roots are in good soil and they are well fed and watered.
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 65°F. Don’t plant out until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up and the temperature reaches 65° F daily (when the Apple trees blossom.)
Seed Depth: 0.5"-2.0". Plant 1/2" in cold soil, and up to 2" in warm soil (where it is more moist).
Spacing: 12-48", (1 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Pumpkins sprawl so much they are usually grown in hills. Sow 2-3 seeds every 2-4' in rows 3-6' apart when danger of frost has passed. Thin to one plant. Can also be sown indoors 2-4 weeks before last frost and transplanted very carefully onto mounds with 2 seedlings per mound.
Summer Crop: 3-10 weeks after last frost date. Pumpkin grow fast in warm soil and will often catch up with plants started indoors. Don’t plant them out until the soil is warm enough (60° F minimum) or they may simply rot in the cold ground.
1. Plant them 2" deep
2. Plant them for trellises, hiils, or on the ground, left to sprawl.
You can warm the soil with black plastic to get them off to a good start and protect them until the weather gets warmer. You could also pre-sprout the seed before planting. You only plant Pumpkin once in a year, so do it properly.
Hills: Plant 3-5 seeds, an inch deep, in each hill and thin to the best two when they have all germinated. These are spaced 4-6' apart, depending on the variety and the fertility of the soil. In hot weather the best ‘hills’ are actually slight depressions, so water moves towards the plants, rather than away from them. If they are to be trained to grow up supports they can be grown closer together, perhaps as close as 30˝ apart.
Support: Optional. The vine takes up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages. A wire fence can work great. This is optional, though, and not necessary (unlike support for Peas Vines or Tomatoes).
When outdoor temp: 60°F to 90°F, optimal temp 65°F to 75°F
When min soil temp: 65°F. Don’t plant out until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up and the temperature reaches 65° F daily (when the Apple trees blossom.)
Seed Depth: 0.5"-2.0". Plant 1/2" in cold soil, and up to 2" in warm soil (where it is more moist).
Spacing: 12-48", (1 per 3'x3') plants per sq ft. Pumpkins sprawl so much they are usually grown in hills. Sow 2-3 seeds every 2-4' in rows 3-6' apart when danger of frost has passed. Thin to one plant. Can also be sown indoors 2-4 weeks before last frost and transplanted very carefully onto mounds with 2 seedlings per mound.
Summer Crop: 3-10 weeks after last frost date. Pumpkin grow fast in warm soil and will often catch up with plants started indoors. Don’t plant them out until the soil is warm enough (60° F minimum) or they may simply rot in the cold ground.
1. Plant them 2" deep
2. Plant them for trellises, hiils, or on the ground, left to sprawl.
You can warm the soil with black plastic to get them off to a good start and protect them until the weather gets warmer. You could also pre-sprout the seed before planting. You only plant Pumpkin once in a year, so do it properly.
Hills: Plant 3-5 seeds, an inch deep, in each hill and thin to the best two when they have all germinated. These are spaced 4-6' apart, depending on the variety and the fertility of the soil. In hot weather the best ‘hills’ are actually slight depressions, so water moves towards the plants, rather than away from them. If they are to be trained to grow up supports they can be grown closer together, perhaps as close as 30˝ apart.
Support: Optional. The vine takes up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages. A wire fence can work great. This is optional, though, and not necessary (unlike support for Peas Vines or Tomatoes).
Pumpkins are quite frost tender and can't be planted until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up. These are vigorous and robust plants. If they are well fed and watered, they can compete with almost any plant.
Water Needs: High. The plants need an evenly moist soil for maximum productivity. The best way to water Pumpkin is with drip irrigation, or a soaker hose used near the soil, as wet foliage can easily lead to fungus diseases.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. High nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Pumpkin have a very vigorous root system, which may dig 6' underground in its search for nutrients.
Watering, regularly: Water, 1 gallon per plant, regularly, 2 times a week. Keep the soil evenly moist for best growth. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, regularly: Compost tea, 1 quart, regularly, every 3 weeks. Give the plants a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed) every 2 to 4 weeks.
Protecting, when 3" tall: Mulch, 2", when 3" tall, 1 time. These tender plants will be killed by freezing temperatures. If an early frost threatens cover them with mulch or frost blankets for protection. Mulch is helpful with these widely spaced plants, to keep down weeds and conserve moisture.
Weeding, up to early fruit set: up to early fruit set, 1 time a week. You need to keep the young plants weeded. Once they get going they are vigorous enough to look after themselves. Their broad leaves effectively block out upcoming weeds from sunlight.
Watering, up to early fruit set: Water, 3 quarts, up to early fruit set, 2 times a week. Keep the plants well watered. Watering depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Pruning, during fruit production: during fruit production, 1 time. If you remove some of the fruit it will allow the plant to put all its energy into those remaining and they will get bigger. This is especially important for the giant pumpkin varieties, such as Big Max and and Wyatt's Wonder.
Support: Optional. The vine takes up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages. A wire fence can work great. This is optional, though, and not necessary (unlike support for Peas Vines or Tomatoes).
Water Needs: High. The plants need an evenly moist soil for maximum productivity. The best way to water Pumpkin is with drip irrigation, or a soaker hose used near the soil, as wet foliage can easily lead to fungus diseases.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy. High nitrogen. Moderate potassium. Moderate phosphorous. Pumpkin have a very vigorous root system, which may dig 6' underground in its search for nutrients.
Watering, regularly: Water, 1 gallon per plant, regularly, 2 times a week. Keep the soil evenly moist for best growth. Watering also depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Side Dressing, regularly: Compost tea, 1 quart, regularly, every 3 weeks. Give the plants a feed of compost tea or liquid kelp (use as directed) every 2 to 4 weeks.
Protecting, when 3" tall: Mulch, 2", when 3" tall, 1 time. These tender plants will be killed by freezing temperatures. If an early frost threatens cover them with mulch or frost blankets for protection. Mulch is helpful with these widely spaced plants, to keep down weeds and conserve moisture.
Weeding, up to early fruit set: up to early fruit set, 1 time a week. You need to keep the young plants weeded. Once they get going they are vigorous enough to look after themselves. Their broad leaves effectively block out upcoming weeds from sunlight.
Watering, up to early fruit set: Water, 3 quarts, up to early fruit set, 2 times a week. Keep the plants well watered. Watering depends on your local weather; don't water if it's raining, or water more frequently if it's dry. Just be sure to keep soil moist for the best crop. The best way to know how much moisture is in your soil is to feel 2" below the soil line. If it's dry, water.
Pruning, during fruit production: during fruit production, 1 time. If you remove some of the fruit it will allow the plant to put all its energy into those remaining and they will get bigger. This is especially important for the giant pumpkin varieties, such as Big Max and and Wyatt's Wonder.
Support: Optional. The vine takes up a lot less space if grown vertically on trellises or cages. A wire fence can work great. This is optional, though, and not necessary (unlike support for Peas Vines or Tomatoes).
Harvesting
Ripening: Harvest when stems begin to shrivel or you can no longer pierce the skin with a thumbnail, but be sure to harvest before the first hard frost. For immediate use, harvest when the skin loses its sheen.
Storage
Cure for 2 weeks in a warm place (80 to 90° F) and then store at around 50 to 60° F and 60 to 70% humidity. They may last 6 months or more in storage, which is why they were once important for self-sufficient farmers.
Storage Req: Cool
Storage Temp: 50-60°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
Storage Req: Cool
Storage Temp: 50-60°F
Storage Length: 1-180 days
By the time the pumpkin has been cured, the seeds are mature. Cut the pumpkin open, remove the pulp and seeds, and rinse off the pulp. Put the mixture in a bowl of water to remove the remaining pulp; the good seeds will sink. Remove the good seeds and spread them out to dry for 2-3 weeks, stirring them at times to make sure they dry completely. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place for up to 4 years.
Seed Viability in Years: 3-5 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Seed Viability in Years: 3-5 years
Germination Percentage: 75%
Culinary
Taste: Sweet, rich and thick-fleshed.
Culinary Use: As the name suggests, these pumpkins make extraordinary pies, as well as a number of other recipes. The pumpkin, as well as other winter squash, play an important role in winter cuisine. It can be roasted, or cooked into a risotto or soup. Pumpkin Pancakes or Pumpkin Cinnamon Rolls are other sweet treats you can indulge in!
Fruit: cooked. Used as a vegetable in pies etc, it can be stored for up to 6 months. Generally the fruit is fibrousy, watery and less richly flavored than C. maxima., C. moschata. and C. pepo. The flesh can be dried, ground into a powder and mixed with cereals for making bread, cakes etc. The fruit is up to 20 cm in diameter.
Seed: raw, roasted or dried, ground into a powder and mixed with cereals when making bread etc. The seed is rich in oil and has a pleasant nutty flavor. Although relatively large, they are very fiddly to use because they are covered with a fibrous coat. An edible oil is obtained from the seed.
Leaves: cooked.
Flowers: cooked.
Known hazards: The sprouting seed produces a toxic substance in its embryo.
Culinary Use: As the name suggests, these pumpkins make extraordinary pies, as well as a number of other recipes. The pumpkin, as well as other winter squash, play an important role in winter cuisine. It can be roasted, or cooked into a risotto or soup. Pumpkin Pancakes or Pumpkin Cinnamon Rolls are other sweet treats you can indulge in!
Fruit: cooked. Used as a vegetable in pies etc, it can be stored for up to 6 months. Generally the fruit is fibrousy, watery and less richly flavored than C. maxima., C. moschata. and C. pepo. The flesh can be dried, ground into a powder and mixed with cereals for making bread, cakes etc. The fruit is up to 20 cm in diameter.
Seed: raw, roasted or dried, ground into a powder and mixed with cereals when making bread etc. The seed is rich in oil and has a pleasant nutty flavor. Although relatively large, they are very fiddly to use because they are covered with a fibrous coat. An edible oil is obtained from the seed.
Leaves: cooked.
Flowers: cooked.
Known hazards: The sprouting seed produces a toxic substance in its embryo.
Medicinal
The seeds are vermifuge. The complete seed, together with the husk, is used. This is ground into a fine flour, then made into an emulsion with water and eaten. It is then necessary to take a purgative afterwards in order to expel the tapeworms or other parasites from the body. As a remedy for internal parasites, the seeds are less potent than the root of Dryopteris felix-mas, but they are safer for pregnant women, debilitated patients and children.
Project Purity Seeds can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.
Companion Planting
Pumpkin pals are corn, melon and squash. Marigold deters beetles. Nasturtium deters bugs, beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection. Again dill may help repel those frustrating squash bugs.
Problems
Cucumber beetles carrying bacterial wilt, squash vine borers and squash bugs are the most common insect pests. Squash borers (caterpillars) tunnel into stems, causing that portion of the vine to wilt. Look for entry holes with droppings outside, make a vertical slit in the problem stem, and remove the caterpillar. Squash bugs can be removed by hand or by placing boards near the plants at night (bugs hide under the boards and can be destroyed the next morning). Additional potential insect pests include aphids, cutworms, leaf miners, white flies, and squash bugs. Watch for mites. Potential disease problems include bacterial wilt, fusarium wilt, blossom end rot, downy mildew and powdery mildew. Watermelon and cucumber mosaic virus may appear.
Cucumber Beetles
Beneficial insects such as Braconid Wasps, Ground Beetles, Soldier Beetles, Spiders, and Tachinid flies all prey on Cucumber Beetles.
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Spiders: Prey on a wide range including bed bugs, aphids, roaches, grasshoppers, cabbage looper, and fruit flies.
To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving spiders, mulch for predatory spiders.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Spiders: Prey on a wide range including bed bugs, aphids, roaches, grasshoppers, cabbage looper, and fruit flies.
To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving spiders, mulch for predatory spiders.
Tachinid Flies: Preys on Gypsy Moths, Flea Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetles, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: Carrots, Dill, Coriander, and Buckwheat.
Squash Vine Borer
Because squash vine borers feed inside stems, they are hidden from predators. The adult moths are sometimes consumed by birds and other daytime predators.
Squash Bugs
Beneficial insects such as Tachinid fly, Ground Beetles and Damsel Flies all prey on Squash bugs.
Tachinid Flies: Prey on Cabbageworms, Gypsy Moths, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetle, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: carrots, dill, coriander, and buckwheat.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: carrots, dill, coriander, and buckwheat.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Aphids
Beneficial insects such as Ladybugs, Collops Beetle, Soldier Beetles, Long-legged Flies, Hover Flies, Predaceous Midges, Damsel Bugs, Big-eyed Bugs, Minute Pirate Bugs, Lacewings, and Parasitic Wasps, Hornets, Paper Wasps, and Yellow Jackets all prey on aphids.
Ladybeetles, Ladybugs, or Ladybird Beetles: Ladybeetles are probably the most well-known of beetles that eat aphids. There are many species, and both the adults and larvae eat aphids. Convergent lady beetles and the seven-spotted ladybeetles are abundant species in the environment. Eggs are found in clutches, yellow and football shaped. Larvae have an alligator-like appearance, and are black with orange markings. Pupae are sedentary. Ladybeetles are commercially available but purchasing is not generally recommended since the adult stage tends to fly away once released. Introductions may be more effective in greenhouses and high tunnels. Diverse plantings can help recruit resident ladybeetles to an area.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two
abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), \Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia),
Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Soft-winged Flower Beetle or Collops Beetle: Collops beetles are commonly found on Alfalfa and Cotton plants in agricultural fields, landscapes and gardens. The adult eats aphids and the larvae are active predators in the soil. Two
abundant species in Utah are the two-spotted melyrid and the soft-winged flower beetle. Collops beetles are not commercially available.
Soldier Beetles: The adult stage of the soldier beetle eats aphids. The larvae live in the soil and help to control soil-borne pests. There are beetles that look similar to soldier beetles such as blister beetles and click beetles, so use care when identifying them. Soldier beetles are not commercially available.
Since Soldiers Beetles lay their eggs in the soil, all you have to do to is grow good nectar or pollen producing plants like Asclepias (milkweed), Solidago (goldenrod), and, while it’s not well understood, they seem particularly attracted to hydrangeas. Soldier Beetles can be found on flowers where they lie and wait for prey. They also feed on nectar and pollen but do not damage the plants.
Long-legged Flies: There are many species of long-legged flies (Dolichopodidae), the adults of which are predators of soft-bodied pests such as thrips, aphids, spider mites, flea hoppers, booklice, flies, silverfish, small caterpillars, and a variety of other small insects. They also eat nectar from flowers. The adult is recognized by the long legs and tapered abdomen but also by the metalic green or blue color. Larvae of long-legged flies are maggot-like in appearance and develop in wet or dry soil, rotting vegetation, or under bark. They are not commercially available.
Syrphid, Flower, or Hover Flies: Syrphid flies are about the size of house flies and hover in flight. The adults, which sometimes resemble bees, are not predaceous, but the larvae are aphid predators. The larvae vary in color from green to brown, some with a stripe or two down the back. The body tapers to the mouthparts. Syrphid flies are not commercially available.
To attract Hover Flies to your garden try growing: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), Lavender globe lily (Allium tanguticum), Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatilis), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Dwarf alpine aster (Aster alpinus), Masterwort (Astrantia major), \Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Feverfew (Chrysanthemum parthenium), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum CA), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii), Statice (Limonium latifolium), Butter and eggs (Linaria vulgaris), Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Sweet alyssum white (Lobularia maritima), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis), Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus), Parsley (Petroselinum crispum), Sulfur cinquefoil (Potentilla recta ‘warrenii’), Alpine cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa), Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia fulgida), Orange stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum), Stonecrops (Sedum spurium), Peter Pan goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), Wood betony (Stachys officinalis), Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia),
Crimson thyme (Thymus serpylum coccineus), Spike speedwell (Veronica spicata), Zinnia "liliput" (Zinnia elegans).
Predaceous Midges: The larvae of these flies are very small (~1/10 inch long), but are generalist predators of mites, aphids and other soft-bodied insects. The larvae are yellow to orange in color. The adults are not predatory. Predaceous midges are commercially available.
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-eyed Bugs: Big-eyed bugs are small (~3/16 inch long), fast moving true bugs. They are generalist predators and are most commonly seen on the ground or in shorter growing plants. They prey on aphids, small caterpillars and caterpillar eggs, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, mites, thrips, whiteflies. They are distinguished by their very large eyes which are as broad as the width of their body. Big-eyed bugs are not available commercially.
To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Minute Pirate Bugs: Minute pirate bugs are very small (~1/12 inch long) predators that are difficult to see without a hand lens or jeweler’s loupe. They are generalist predators that feed on small insect prey. Both the nymphs and adults are predaceous. The adults are identified by the black and white color and an X pattern across the back. The nymphs are tiny and red to orange in color. Minute pirate bugs are commercially available.
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum),
Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Parasitic Wasps: There are several species of parasitoid wasps that parasitize aphids specifically. Parasitic wasps that specialize on aphids are very small (~1/8 inch long) and female wasps have a modified stinger for depositing eggs. The egg is injected into an aphid where the larva develops inside. Parasitized aphids are a light tan to gold color and have a bulbous look. A circular cut out on the rearend of the aphid indicates adult wasp emergence. Parasitic wasps are commercially available but there are abundant populations in the environment.
Hornets, Paper Wasps, Yellow Jackets: Although hornets, paper wasps and yellow jackets are often considered a nuisance, they are predators of soft-bodied insects. They do not typically sting humans unless they are disturbed. If their nests are not in an area likely to be disturbed by people then it is not a bad idea to leave them alone.
Cutworms
Beneficial insects such as Ground Beetles, Tachinid Flies, Braconid Wasps, Spiders, Minute Pirate Bugs, Damsel Bugs, Lacewing Larvae, and Birds all prey on Cutworms.
Ground Beetles: Prey on Snails, Slugs, Ants, Maggots, Earthworms, Caterpillars, Armyworms, Grubs, Colorado potato beetles, and Cutworms.
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Tachinid Flies: Prey on Cabbageworms, Gypsy Moths, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetle, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: carrots, dill, coriander, and buckwheat.
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Spiders: Prey on a wide range including bed bugs, aphids, roaches, grasshoppers, cabbage looper, and fruit flies.
To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving spiders, mulch for predatory spiders.
Minute Pirate Bugs: Preys on spider mites, cabbage looper, insect eggs, caterpillars, aphids, thrips
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
To attract Ground Beetles to your garden you will need to grow: evening primrose, amaranthus, and clover.
Tachinid Flies: Prey on Cabbageworms, Gypsy Moths, Japanese Beetles, Mexican Bean Beetle, Cutworms, and Squash Bugs.
To attract Tachinid Flies to your garden you will need to grow: carrots, dill, coriander, and buckwheat.
Braconid Wasps: Prey on Tobacco Hornworm, Tomato Hornworm, Caterpillars, Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles.
To attract Braconid Wasps to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf Yarrow, Common Yarrow, Dill, Lemon Balm, and Parsley.
Spiders: Prey on a wide range including bed bugs, aphids, roaches, grasshoppers, cabbage looper, and fruit flies.
To attract Spiders to your garden you will need to grow: tall plants for weaving spiders, mulch for predatory spiders.
Minute Pirate Bugs: Preys on spider mites, cabbage looper, insect eggs, caterpillars, aphids, thrips
To attract Minute Pirate Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Damsel Bugs: These true bugs are very common and abundant in farms, gardens and landscapes. They are generalist predators and both the adults and nymphs eat aphids, caterpillar eggs, small larvae, fleahoppers, lygus bugs, leafhoppers, treehoppers, spider mites, and other soft-bodied insects, especially on shorter growing plants. They are common in agricultural habitats, such as soybean, corn, and alfalfa. Damsel bugs are greyish brown in color and have grasping front legs. They are not commercially available.
To attract Damsel Bugs to your garden you will need to grow: Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: Green lacewings are common generalist predators that feed on aphids. Brown lacewings are slightly smaller. Some species of adult lacewings are predaceous while the larvae are very active predators that feed on soft-bodied prey such as mites, aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, whiteflies, and pest eggs. Lacewings in nearly all life stages are commercially available.
To attract Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Fern-leaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos white sensation (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Leafminer
Leaf miner parasitic wasps (Diglyphus isaea) are the main natural enemy of these ubiquitous garden pests. These tiny wasps prey on leaf miners by laying eggs in their larvae. When the eggs hatch, the wasp larvae feed on the leaf miner larvae. You can purchase Leaf miner parasite wasps as adults from online organic garden suppliers.
Whiteflies
Beneficial insects such as ladybugs and lacewing larvae prey on Whiteflies.
Ladybeetles, Ladybugs, or Ladybird Beetles: Ladybeetles are probably the most well-known of beetles that eat aphids. There are many species, and both the adults and larvae eat aphids. Convergent lady beetles and the seven-spotted ladybeetles are abundant species in the environment. Eggs are found in clutches, yellow and football shaped. Larvae have an alligator-like appearance, and are black with orange markings. Pupae are sedentary. Ladybeetles are commercially available but purchasing is not generally recommended since the adult stage tends to fly away once released. Introductions may be more effective in greenhouses and high tunnels. Diverse plantings can help recruit resident ladybeetles to an area.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, Caterpillars of pest moths, and whiteflies.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
To attract Ladybugs to your garden you will need to grow: Angelica, Calendula, Caraway, Chives, Cilantro, Cosmos, Dill, Fennel, Feverfew, Marigold, Statice, Sweet Alyssum, and Yarrow. You may also want to grow decoy crops to keep your ladybugs supplied with aphids to eat such as Early cabbage, Marigold, Nasturtium, and Radish. Without a food source, your ladybugs will be forced to leave which will leave your crops vulnerable.
Green Lacewings: Preys on Aphids, Flea beetles, Whitefly, Leafhopper, Mealybugs, Caterpillars of pest moths, and whiteflies.
To attract Green Lacewings to your garden you will need to grow: Dill, Angelica, Golden Marguerite, Coriander, and Dandelion.
SpiderMites
Beneficial insects such as minute pirate bugs, bigeyed bugs, and lacewing larvae all prey on Spidermites.
Minute Pirate Bugs: To attract Minute pirate bugs to your garden you will need to grow host plants they need such as Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Big-Eyed Bugs: To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow host plants they need such as Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: To attract lacewings to your garden you will need to grow host plants they need such as Fern-Leaf Yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne's Lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), and Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Big-Eyed Bugs: To attract Big-eyed bugs to your garden you will need to grow host plants they need such as Caraway (Carum carvi), Cosmos “white sensation” (Cosmos bipinnatus), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Alfalfa (Medicago sativa), Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Peter Pan Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea), and Marigold “lemon gem” (Tagetes tenuifolia).
Lacewings: To attract lacewings to your garden you will need to grow host plants they need such as Fern-Leaf Yarrow (Achillea filipendulina), Dill (Anethum graveolens), Angelica (Angelica gigas), Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria), Four-wing saltbush (Atriplex canescens), Purple poppy mallow (Callirhoe involucrata), Caraway (Carum carvi), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus), Queen Anne's Lace (Daucus carota), Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii), Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), and Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale).
Nutrition
Pumpkins are high in complex carbohydrates, Vitamins B6, A, C (beta carotene to especially dark skinned ones.) They also contain magnesium, potassium, thiamin and lutein.
The Health Benefits of Pumpkin
Pumpkin has been connected to a number of health benefits, such as the ability to reduce cancer, improve vision, protect cardiovascular health, boost immunity, increase fertility, improve bone mineral density, and aid weight loss, among others.
Boosts Immunity: With high levels of vitamin C in every bite, pumpkin is an excellent way to promote the health of the immune system, as it can stimulate the production of white blood cells, which are the body’s first line of defense against infections and foreign pathogens.
Increases Fertility: With the ability to balance the hormones and stimulate the metabolism in various ways, pumpkins have traditionally been known to increase fertility in both men and women.
Weight Loss: Pumpkins are surprisingly low in calories, making them ideal for people who are trying to lose weight. While their dietary fiber content is not as impressive as some other vegetables, they can help suppress your appetite without compromising your daily caloric intake.
Strengthens Bones: There is a variety of minerals found in pumpkins, making them an important component in boosting bone mineral density. This includes good amounts of copper, phosphorous, iron and magnesium.
Heart Health: These vegetables contain high levels of antioxidants and phenolic antioxidants, all of which can boost heart health by reducing oxidative stress in the blood vessels and arteries.
Protects Vision: With notable amounts of beta-carotene, lutein, and zeaxanthin, these vegetables are excellent ways to boost vision health, as these antioxidants can slow down the progression of both macular degeneration and cataracts. These squash varieties also have more than 250% of your daily requirements for vitamin A, which is linked to vision health.
Prevents Cancer: The antioxidants found in pumpkins, including the active ingredient cucurbitacin, can help prevent certain types of cancer and reduce oxidative stress throughout the body.
Neural Tube Defects: There is a good amount of folate found in pumpkins, which is a key nutrient in the prevention of neural tube defects; therefore, pregnant women would do well to add a bit of pumpkin to their diet!
Boosts Immunity: With high levels of vitamin C in every bite, pumpkin is an excellent way to promote the health of the immune system, as it can stimulate the production of white blood cells, which are the body’s first line of defense against infections and foreign pathogens.
Increases Fertility: With the ability to balance the hormones and stimulate the metabolism in various ways, pumpkins have traditionally been known to increase fertility in both men and women.
Weight Loss: Pumpkins are surprisingly low in calories, making them ideal for people who are trying to lose weight. While their dietary fiber content is not as impressive as some other vegetables, they can help suppress your appetite without compromising your daily caloric intake.
Strengthens Bones: There is a variety of minerals found in pumpkins, making them an important component in boosting bone mineral density. This includes good amounts of copper, phosphorous, iron and magnesium.
Heart Health: These vegetables contain high levels of antioxidants and phenolic antioxidants, all of which can boost heart health by reducing oxidative stress in the blood vessels and arteries.
Protects Vision: With notable amounts of beta-carotene, lutein, and zeaxanthin, these vegetables are excellent ways to boost vision health, as these antioxidants can slow down the progression of both macular degeneration and cataracts. These squash varieties also have more than 250% of your daily requirements for vitamin A, which is linked to vision health.
Prevents Cancer: The antioxidants found in pumpkins, including the active ingredient cucurbitacin, can help prevent certain types of cancer and reduce oxidative stress throughout the body.
Neural Tube Defects: There is a good amount of folate found in pumpkins, which is a key nutrient in the prevention of neural tube defects; therefore, pregnant women would do well to add a bit of pumpkin to their diet!
Health Benefits of Pumpkin Seeds
Antioxidant Activity: Cancer is one of the most serious conditions that affect the human race, and we are constantly looking for ways to reduce our chances of developing this dreaded disease. Pumpkin seed extracts contain a number of anti-cancer properties and components, including phenolic compounds. These compounds have directly been attributed to scavenging free radicals in test subjects that were given pumpkin seed extract. Antioxidants are powerful substances that help the body get rid of free radicals, the dangerous byproducts of cellular metabolism that can lead to a host of diseases, including cancer!
Improve Prostate Health: Pumpkin seeds are good for relieving the symptoms of an enlarged prostate, primarily due to their activity as diuretics. This keeps the prostate healthy, which is one of the most common places for men to develop cancer.
Prevent Parasitic Activity: Pumpkin seeds have long been associated with anti-parasitic activity and have been used traditionally as a way to eliminate tapeworms and other dangerous parasites in the body. For children, who are the most susceptible to worms, pumpkin seeds provide a delicious snack and a very important defensive line against those worms, which can result in malnutrition, incorrect growth patterns, and even death. The exact mechanism by which pumpkin seeds do this is somewhat unclear.
Reduce Inflammation: Certain studies have shown that pumpkin seeds have anti-inflammatory properties in the body, which is one of the common uses of this delicious snack. Inflammation can often be the result of various deficiencies, including that of protein, various vitamins, and minerals. Inflammatory conditions like arthritis can be debilitating, so adding good amounts of proteins and anti-inflammatory compounds into your body will prevent that from happening. This will also help keep the tissues healthy. Pumpkin seeds have been directly associated with a decrease in inflammation and the associated pain of arthritis.
Prevent Kidney Stones: Pumpkin seeds have been connected with a reduction in toxins in the body, due to its diuretic properties, as well as the antioxidant activity. Furthermore, they stimulate circulation and increase the speed and processing of liver and kidney functions. Uric acid and various other toxins are therefore removed from the body, which means they cannot accumulate into dangerous kidney stones or other forms, like gout and arthritis, as mentioned earlier. Pumpkin seeds promote good health of kidneys and help to detoxify body from top to bottom.
Boost Body Metabolism: Our body functions at its highest levels when all of our systems are working efficiently and healthily. Having a stable and adequate amount of protein in your diet is essential because proteins are made up of amino acids, which are used in thousands of necessary enzymatic and metabolic processes every day. Without those essential amino acids and proteins, our bodies would cease to function, and we would become weak, lethargic, unhealthy, slow-witted, and exhausted.
Good Source of Protein: Pumpkin seeds are a huge source of proteins. 30% of pumpkin seed volume is made of proteins. There are 12 grams of proteins in a single cup of pumpkin seeds, which is approximately 25% of our daily requirement of protein.
Induce Sleep: If you’re feeling tired or stressed after a long day, you can turn to pumpkin seeds to calm yourself down and get a good night’s sleep. Pumpkin seeds are rich sources of both magnesium and tryptophan that are closely associated with sedation and soothing qualities that stimulate sleep. These seeds can help your head hit the pillow in a peaceful, lasting way due to those two vital components.
Prevent Osteoporosis: Pumpkin seeds are extremely popular due to their effects on osteoporosis. They have high levels of zinc, calcium, copper, and other minerals that are linked to increased bone density. Studies have shown that consistent intake of pumpkin seeds can reduce bone weakness and the symptoms of osteoporosis.
Lower Cholesterol Levels: One of the unique organic compounds in pumpkin seeds is phytosterols, which is directly connected to lower LDL cholesterol levels. These phytosterols prevent blood clots and atherosclerosis, thereby reducing the risk of heart attacks and strokes.
Reduce Blood Pressure: Furthermore, the high copper levels in pumpkin seeds increase red blood cell count in the body and improve oxygenated passage of blood through the vessels. This fact, combined with low sodium content, can improve heart health by reducing blood pressure, so pumpkin seeds should be considered a valuable cardiovascular booster.
Improve Prostate Health: Pumpkin seeds are good for relieving the symptoms of an enlarged prostate, primarily due to their activity as diuretics. This keeps the prostate healthy, which is one of the most common places for men to develop cancer.
Prevent Parasitic Activity: Pumpkin seeds have long been associated with anti-parasitic activity and have been used traditionally as a way to eliminate tapeworms and other dangerous parasites in the body. For children, who are the most susceptible to worms, pumpkin seeds provide a delicious snack and a very important defensive line against those worms, which can result in malnutrition, incorrect growth patterns, and even death. The exact mechanism by which pumpkin seeds do this is somewhat unclear.
Reduce Inflammation: Certain studies have shown that pumpkin seeds have anti-inflammatory properties in the body, which is one of the common uses of this delicious snack. Inflammation can often be the result of various deficiencies, including that of protein, various vitamins, and minerals. Inflammatory conditions like arthritis can be debilitating, so adding good amounts of proteins and anti-inflammatory compounds into your body will prevent that from happening. This will also help keep the tissues healthy. Pumpkin seeds have been directly associated with a decrease in inflammation and the associated pain of arthritis.
Prevent Kidney Stones: Pumpkin seeds have been connected with a reduction in toxins in the body, due to its diuretic properties, as well as the antioxidant activity. Furthermore, they stimulate circulation and increase the speed and processing of liver and kidney functions. Uric acid and various other toxins are therefore removed from the body, which means they cannot accumulate into dangerous kidney stones or other forms, like gout and arthritis, as mentioned earlier. Pumpkin seeds promote good health of kidneys and help to detoxify body from top to bottom.
Boost Body Metabolism: Our body functions at its highest levels when all of our systems are working efficiently and healthily. Having a stable and adequate amount of protein in your diet is essential because proteins are made up of amino acids, which are used in thousands of necessary enzymatic and metabolic processes every day. Without those essential amino acids and proteins, our bodies would cease to function, and we would become weak, lethargic, unhealthy, slow-witted, and exhausted.
Good Source of Protein: Pumpkin seeds are a huge source of proteins. 30% of pumpkin seed volume is made of proteins. There are 12 grams of proteins in a single cup of pumpkin seeds, which is approximately 25% of our daily requirement of protein.
Induce Sleep: If you’re feeling tired or stressed after a long day, you can turn to pumpkin seeds to calm yourself down and get a good night’s sleep. Pumpkin seeds are rich sources of both magnesium and tryptophan that are closely associated with sedation and soothing qualities that stimulate sleep. These seeds can help your head hit the pillow in a peaceful, lasting way due to those two vital components.
Prevent Osteoporosis: Pumpkin seeds are extremely popular due to their effects on osteoporosis. They have high levels of zinc, calcium, copper, and other minerals that are linked to increased bone density. Studies have shown that consistent intake of pumpkin seeds can reduce bone weakness and the symptoms of osteoporosis.
Lower Cholesterol Levels: One of the unique organic compounds in pumpkin seeds is phytosterols, which is directly connected to lower LDL cholesterol levels. These phytosterols prevent blood clots and atherosclerosis, thereby reducing the risk of heart attacks and strokes.
Reduce Blood Pressure: Furthermore, the high copper levels in pumpkin seeds increase red blood cell count in the body and improve oxygenated passage of blood through the vessels. This fact, combined with low sodium content, can improve heart health by reducing blood pressure, so pumpkin seeds should be considered a valuable cardiovascular booster.
Suggested Varieties
(Amaranthus caudatus 'Love, Lies, Bleeding')
Love, Lies, Bleeding Amaranth is a heirloom annual leaf vegetable that is native to South America, but can be commonly found growing in gardens throughout the United States. At maturity, this plant reaches the height of 2-4' and features erect, deep red stems, 6” oval, light green leaves and 12” bright red, drooping tassels. This plant can be grown in containers or hanging baskets, attracts bees and butterflies, tolerates drought, is used to make dye, self sows, is both edible and medicinal, and is great as a cut flower!
(Amaranthus tricolor 'Perfecta')
Perfecta Amaranth is a heirloom upright, busy annual leaf vegetable that is native to India and tropical Asia, but can be commonly found growing in gardens throughout the United States. At maturity, this plant reaches the height of 2-4' and feature s erect stems, 10” oval-shaped, green to purple leaves that have yellow and red blotches, and 1” green to red flowers. This plant can be grown in containers, attracts bees and butterflies, tolerates drought, is edible, and its foliage is a addition to cut flowers!
(Amaranthus cruentus 'Red Garnet')
Red garnet Amaranth is a heirloom, warm weather annual leaf vegetable that is native to Mexico and South America, but can be commonly found growing in gardens throughout the United States. At maturity, this plant reaches the height of 6-7' and features erect stems, oval-shaped, burgundy red leaves, and large dark red flower spikes. This plant can be grown in containers, attracts bees, birds, and butterflies, tolerates drought, and it's edible!
(Angelica atropurpurea ‘American')
American Angelica is a native perennial herb that can be commonly found growing in swampy areas and along rivers and streams throughout the northeastern United States. At maturity, this plant reaches the height of 3-10' and features dark purple stems, green oval, toothed, compound leaves, and large compound umbels of greenish-white to white flowers. This plant attracts bees, butterflies, lacewings, ladybugs, and parasitic wasps, tolerates deer, and is also both edible and medicinal!
(Melissa officinalis ‘Lemon Balm’)
Lemon Balm is perennial herb that is native to the Southern Europe but can be commonly found growing throughout the northwestern, south central, and eastern United States. At maturity, this plant reaches the height of 2' and features 3” oval, medium green, wrinkled, lemon scented leaves, and tiny white flowers that have two lips. This plant can be grown in a container, attracts bees, birds, butterflies, hoverflies, parasitic wasps, and tachinid flies, repels ants and flies, is resistant to deer, tolerates drought, is used to make essential oils and potpourri, self sows, and is also both edible and medicinal!
(Monarda fistulosa ‘Wild’)
Wild Bergamot is a native perennial clump forming flower that is naturally found growing in dry rocky woods and dry prairies all across the United States. At maturity this plant reaches a height of 2-3' and features a square like stem, aromatic greenish gray leaves, and globular clusters of two-lipped lavender flowers. This plant is best known for its ability to attracts bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds, but it also is both edible and medicinal, can be used as a cut flower, is drought tolerant, is used to flavor perfumes, make insect repellents and essential oils, is resistant to deer, and self sows!
(Brassica oleracea 'Early Jersey Wakefield')
Early Jersey Wakefield Cabbage is a heirloom, hardy, cool weather annual vegetable that is native to England, but was first grown in the United States in 1840 by Francis Brill of Jersey City. At maturity, this plant reaches the height of 12-18” and features dark-green, conical heads averaging 5" in diameter and weighing 2 to 3 lbs. This plant can be grown in a container, attracts earwigs, is rabbits safe (in moderation), can be used as a trap crop for aphids, tolerates frost, and is edible.
(Carum carvi ‘Caraway')
Caraway is a biennial herb that is native to Europe and Asia but can be commonly found growing in meadows, prairies, and along roadsides throughout the northern United States. At maturity, this plant reaches the height of 12-18” and features feathery fronds and umbrella shaped clusters of tiny white flowers. This plant can be grown in a container, attracts bees, butterflies, damsel bugs, hoverflies, lacewings, ladybugs, and predatory wasps, and is also both edible and medicinal!
(Daucus carota 'Chantenay Red Cored')
Chantenay Red Cored Carrot is a heirloom, hardy, cool weather annual vegetable that is native to France, but is commonly grown across the United States. At maturity, this plant reaches the height of 12-18” and features a 7" long, orange, nearly coreless carrots. This plant can be grown in a container, attracts earwigs and tachinid flies, is rabbit safe, tolerates light frost, is used to flavor perfumes and make alcohol, and is both edible and medicinal.
(Daucus carota 'Cosmic Purple')
Cosmic Purple Carrot is a hardy, cool weather annual vegetable that is native to Wisconsin, where it was developed in Madison by Dr. Philipp in 2005. At maturity, this plant reaches the height of 6-12” and features 7" purple skinned carrots with orange and yellow flesh. This plant can be grown in a container, attracts earwigs and tachinid flies, is rabbit safe, tolerates light frost, is used to flavor perfumes and make alcohol, and is both edible and medicinal.
(Daucus carota 'Danvers')
Danvers Carrot is a heirloom, hardy, cool weather annual vegetable that is native to Massachusetts, where it was developed in Danvers and was first marketed by Burpee Seed Co. in 1886. At maturity, this plant reaches the height of 12-18” and features a 7" long, nearly coreless orange carrot. This plant can be grown in a container, attracts earwigs and tachinid flies, is rabbit safe, tolerates light frost, is used to flavor perfumes and make alcohol, and is both edible and medicinal.
(Daucus carota 'Rainbow Blend')
Rainbow Blend Carrot is a heirloom seed mix consisting of Cosmic Purple, Atomic Red, Lunar White, and Solar Yellow Carrots which are hardy, cool weather annual vegetables that are grown in the United States. These carrots can be grown in a container, attracts earwigs and tachinid flies, is rabbit safe, tolerates light frost, is used to flavor perfumes and make alcohol, and is both edible and medicinal.